USA $6.99 CAN $9.99 / UK £6 SA R90 / ISR 25₪
14
BUTCHER'S CUT
Lamb Ribs
8
EDITOR’S LETTER
10
FOOD FOR GOOD Sage Kitchen and Me for We
12 ESSENTIALS Restaurant edition 34 TRAVEL Food crawl — a new way to eat out 36 SEASONAL Bringing the restaurant home 52
66 TRENDS
Restaurant quality at your doorstep
ISRAEL ROW Recipes inspired by some of Miami’s best Israeli spots
60 BREAKING BREAD Bread from the Middle East 88 L’CHAIM Herzog house wines 90 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Sen Sakana — NYC’s only kosher Nikkei experience plus some more unique kosher experiences 99 NEW KOSHER New innovative kosher restaurants across the globe
82
SUPERMARKET EATS Restaurants with supermarket origins
100 HOW TO ORDER Maximizing the restaurant experience 103 RESTAURANT GUIDE 2022 140 COOKBOOK Thali: A Joyful Celebration of Indian Home Cooking by Maunika Gowardhan 145 INTERNATIONAL KOSHER Best international kosher restaurants 146 INTERVIEW Lee Schrager 150 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Freixenet — the Cava experts of Spain
154 SOMETHING SWEET
Desser spring rolls
159 UNIQUE KOSHER Kosher restaurants that are pushing boundaries 160 RECIPE INDEX 162 LAST BITE Condiments for days
BUTCHER'S CUT
LAMB RIBS
Similar to beef, the rib section of lamb offers some of the most flavorful, marbled and delicious meat on the animal, but takes considerably more time and effort to enjoy than cooking lamb chops or ground lamb. Ribs are generally cut in racks – several bones together with meat on top and in between. It’s best to cook it as a rack, then slice between the bones to serve. LAMB RIBLETS
Riblets bring the most intense lamb flavor and are also the most marbled. They’re delicious, but if you don’t like fatty meat, this cut is not for you. They’re best braised or smoked a day before serving so that the fat can render out (there will still be a lot of fat left though). Deboned, these ribs are called lamb breast or lamb belly and are
14
Fleishigs
JANUARY 2022
ideal for charcuterie – where lamb bacon and lamb porchetta are made from. In addition, because of their high fat content, lamb riblets add wonderful flavor to braised dishes such as Chagit Leviev’s oshsvo (find the recipe in issue #28 or on the Fleishigs app). Because lamb riblets have so much fat, they are forgiving to cook and can easily be made in advance and reheated. This makes them great for braising at home and they are also a popular choice at restaurants. Wall Street Grill in NYC serves a sweet, savory and tangy version glazed with a homemade sino sauce (see page 16). Chef Gabe Garcia at Tierra Sur cooks his in the sous vide, then finishes with a smoky peach barbecue glaze (see page 19).
L AMB SHORT RIB S are the meatiest and (relatively) leanest part of the lamb ribs, but are not widely available. They’re cut from the same section as rainbow lamb chops, so when butchering a lamb, it can either be cut into short ribs or rainbow chops, but not both. Lamb short ribs can be braised or smoked. BABY BACK LAMB RIBS are the same cut as beef back ribs – the tender, inner rib meat that is found near the rack. There isn’t very much of this very special and delicious meat. Baby back lamb ribs can be seared quickly over high heat, then smoked or slow cooked.
In our opinion, all lamb pairs well with strong flavors, such as curry, rosemary, garlic, chili and mint.
www.fleishigs.com
BUTCHER'S CUT
Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertlybutchered premium-quality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces beef, veal, lamb and poultry raised on pasture with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at growandbehold.com.
JANUARY 2022
Fleishigs
15
SEASONAL
36
Fleishigs
JANUARY 2022
www.fleishigs.com
SEASONAL
G
oing out to eat can be wonderful, but is not always practical. Whether your budget doesn’t allow for it or finding a babysitter is proving to be impossible, creating a restaurant experience at home can feel just as satisfying, if not more. This guide will walk you through the process from start to finish, leaving no questions unanswered and no guesswork. Two menu options are provided here, but feel free to take inspiration and create your favorite experience from scratch. STEP 1: MAKE A “RESERVATION”
Set a date and time in advance, whether it’s just you and a spouse or friend or a whole crowd of guests. Making plans ahead of time is what will really make this dinner special. STEP 2: SELECT A THEME
Ask yourself what kind of vibe you’re going for — are you trying to recreate a dining experience you’ve already had with dishes that you loved or travel somewhere you’ve never been? STEP 3: DECOR AND AMBIANCE
Draw inspiration from platforms like Instagram or Pinterest to conceptualize your theme. Simple bargain store finds like a new set of glassware or cloth napkins can really set the mood. Create a playlist with restaurant-style music and flood your table with lots of candles. STEP 4: MENU AND GROCERY LIST
Working within your theme, create a menu complete with appetizers, entrées, desserts and drinks, then create a grocery list. Print menus to place on each place setting. STEP 5: PREPARATION AND COOKING
Come up with a scheduled plan to prepare, cook and serve the dishes. Read through the recipes and decide what can be prepped the day before, morning of, hour before and right before serving. Writing out the game plan in outline form will help keep you organized. STEP 6: GET DRESSED AND HAVE FUN
Get dressed as if you were going out — shoes included — and have fun! There are no restaurant critics here, just a chance to try something new and enjoy yourself. STEP 7: SERVING
Keep in mind that restaurant meals are not all served at once. Allow for some time between courses for plating, good conversation and some digesting! This is your house, so you can have guests join you in the kitchen to watch you prepare the next part of the menu if you’d like or have them sit back and relax while you prepare the next course. JANUARY 2022
Fleishigs
37
ISRAEL ROW
BY: SHIFRA KLEIN PHOTOGRAPHY BY: SCHNEUR MENAKER
52
Fleishigs
JANUARY 2022
www.fleishigs.com
ISRAEL ROW
WITH OVER 20 Israeli restaurants throughout South Florida, it’s safe to say that the area is not lacking in this cuisine. After dining at many of the hot spots in Miami in recent years, we made it our mission to find some new — less trendy — places in North Miami Beach. Over on an inconspicuous, humble side of Aventura lie a few Israeli establishments that bring the shuk experience to South Florida. While the experiences are far from glamorous, the flavors and vibe of the Israeli marketplaces truly shine.
IL NUTS — YOSSEF ROASTING is a small shop that sells roasted nuts and every spice you would find in any shuk in Israel. The variety of nuts spans from sweet (halva and lotus crusted pecans) to savory (fried salted fava beans) and everything in between. Beyond the nuts and spices is an array of Israeli staples and candy, truly rounding out the shuk experience. 19098 W Dixie Highway (786) 916-5141 MAMA PIZZA is a simple, nofrills pizza store with ample outdoor seating that is known for their bourekas. The pizza is Israeli-style — thin crust, Israeli shredded cheese and a spiced tomato sauce. There is also an affordable breakfast option as well as Israeli-style toast sandwiches. 19200 W Dixie Highway Miami Beach (305) 901-1502 HATEMANIA is located right next door to Mama Pizza and is the only dedicated Yemenite kosher restaurant in the United States. The ambience is simple, with just a few tables in a small space. If you love a hearty bowl of soup, this place is for you — the chicken soup is spiced to utter perfection and filled to the brim with hearty potatoes, carrots and chicken, served with a side of freshly made kubaneh (bread), schug and hilbeh (traditional Yemeni dip). The falafel, packed with fresh green herbs, is also noteworthy, boasting a crispy exterior and fluffy interior.
MS. DIXIE is a simple sandwich shop with great Israeli touches. Aside from the delicious homemade buns and the variety of salads, the Israeli-inspired appetizers make it stand out from other sandwich shops. We loved the sweet potatoes with chickpeas and blackened cabbage. Another interesting appetizer was the corn ribs, a trending menu item available in a few South Florida restaurants. The space inside is small, but there is generous outdoor seating. 21000 W Dixie Highway Miami Beach (305) 933-3305 NUNUNU, the brainchild of Chef Avi (from the former restaurant Sami & Susu), is located about a 10-minute drive from these few casual spots. Chef Avi simplified his approach and created a fast casual restaurant that serves perfectly-executed Israeli classics. The hummus is super creamy and flavorful and the pitas are fluffy. We visited on a Thursday night and were lucky enough to try the evening sandwich special — schnitzel in a sesame roll (also known as a lachmania) with all the fixings (hummus, matbucha, fried eggplant, roasted peppers or pickles). Their baklava spring rolls inspired this month’s Something Sweet column (page 154). 17066-B Collins Ave, Sunny Isles Beach, FL 33160 (305) 705-2276
19202 W Dixie Highway Miami Beach (786) 802-3149
JANUARY 2022
Fleishigs
53
BREAKING BREAD
60
Fleishigs
JANUARY 2022
www.fleishigs.com
BREAKING BREAD
There is nothing quite like freshly baked bread and these Middle Eastern varieties have stood out in a few of our recent restaurant experiences. Baking fresh bread for dinner elevates at-home dining to restaurant level.
JANUARY 2022
Fleishigs
61
TRENDS
5 ONLINE ORDERING One convenient outcome of COVID was that many restaurants upgraded their online ordering systems out of necessity. Until the stay-athome sanctions, restaurants were not motivated to invest in website overhaul. However, once online ordering became more popular, it allowed restaurants to stay in business even when they were closed for indoor dining; we are still reaping the benefits and many restaurants even order curbside delivery for convenient pickup. Something to consider — while many food delivery services like UberEats, GrubHub and Seamless are often available at local restaurants, take the extra step to contact the restaurant and find out if you can order from the restaurant directly. This will eliminate added costs for both yourself and the restaurant.
66
Fleishigs
JANUARY 2022
www.fleishigs.com
TRENDS
1.
RESTAURANT QUALITY AT HOME
WAGYU STYLE BEEF , truffles and gourmet jams are just a few items that, for a long time, were only available to restaurants, caterers and chefs “with connections.” As the palate of the kosher consumer continues to expand, there is a growing interest to think — and taste — outside the box. Due to increased resources and time at home during the pandemic, home cooks have honed their skills and become experts in the culinary arts, including at-home charcuterie and sourdough baking. As a result, companies and services have blossomed to bring quality, harder-to-source ingredients directly to kosher consumers, which has been especially exciting for those who live outside of the tri-state area, where access to gourmet ingredients and obscure cuts of meat is more readily available. KOSH ,
a new online marketplace spearheaded by our friend and acclaimed chef Yos Schwartz, has the single goal of bringing gourmet products and premium meats direct to consumers from their own farm. Sourcing products directly from the producers allows Kosh to offer incredibly unique items that don’t always make it to market. After years of attending Kosher Fest, we’ve been repeatedly surprised when a product we thought had so much potential never hits supermarket shelves. As small as the kosher market is (comparatively), the market for gourmet kosher products is even smaller, which means distributors have to weigh the pros and cons of large-scale supermarket distribution for each new item.
Duck Breast with Raspberry Mostarda Serves: 8
By: Chef Yos Schwartz
The sweet and savory qualities of the raspberry mostarda lend perfectly to the flavor of the duck breast. Mostarda is a classic Italian condiment made from fruit and mustard and is typically served alongside meat or as an accompaniment on a charcuterie or cheese board. Blake Hill Preserves Raspberry Mostarda, which is certified kosher by OU, is available on kosh. com (along with the duck breast), but our homemade (shortcut) version follows as well. 3 1½ ¾ 1
duck breasts teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (10-ounce) jar Blake Hill Raspberry Mostarda or Shortcut Raspberry Mostarda (recipe follows)
1. Score the skin of the duck breasts, being sure not to go all the way through to the flesh. Season with salt and pepper, then rub generously with raspberry mostarda. Transfer to a Ziploc bag and let marinate in the fridge for 6 hours and up to overnight. 2. Let duck breasts come to room temperature for 1 hour. 3. Place duck breasts, skin side down, in a cold cast iron pan or heavy-duty skillet. Turn on heat to mediumhigh and cook for 12-15 minutes, until fat renders and skin is crisp. Flip duck, lower heat and cook for 2-5 minutes. Let rest for 8 minutes before serving. S H O RTC U T R AS P B E R RY M OSTA R DA
Mix 1 cup raspberry jam, ⅓ cup whole grain Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon vinegar and 2 teaspoons honey.
Having decades of experience cooking for kosher consumers, Chef Yos Schwartz has true intuition into what chefs and gourmet cooks are looking for and sources ingredients that he once only dreamed would be available to industry chefs like himself. Specialty jams, cheeses, Wagyustyle steaks and high-quality fish are just some of the gourmet items available from Kosh. For their launch party, which took place at a loft in the Tribeca area of New York City, Chef Yos teamed up with meat aficionado Bosh Boshnack to create simple party bites showcasing Kosh’s offerings. Some new brands, such as Marble & Grain, were highlighted; the approach in the food offered speaks to Kosh’s mission and philosophy of “better ingredients, better outcomes.” Here we highlighted some of our favorite bites from the launch party, with most of the ingredients available on their website, kosh.com. JANUARY 2022
Fleishigs
67
SUPERMARKET EATS
82
Fleishigs
JANUARY 2022
www.fleishigs.com
SUPERMARKET EATS
there is one thing we’ve learned about the restaurant industry these past two years, it’s how restaurateurs can be savvy, adaptable and creative to meet the practical challenges in serving good, fresh food to their communities. But outside of the kosher Meccas of New York, Miami, and Israel, creativity and ingenuity have always been essential to keeping a kosher restaurant alive and thriving. In smaller Jewish communities, which lack the crowds needed to fill those seats night after night, restaurant owners have to think outside the box to keep their eateries profitable — whether that means appealing to a non-kosher-observant clientele, partnering with other Jewish institutions such as the local JCC, or sometimes, forgoing the traditional restaurant space for a takeout spot located inside the local supermarket. What these supermarket restaurants lack in ambiance and service, they can make up for in accessibility, affordability and the ability to delight customers with something delicious and unexpected. Often, seating is limited to a few simple tables in front of the deli counter. Some of these eateries offer unique cuisine or creative, chefinspired dishes. More often, they simply provide a kosher bite to eat for the traveler, party host or busy family.
CHAI PEKING KROGER: ATLANTA, GA
TUCKED INTO AN ordinary all-American Kroger in an ordinary all-American shopping center in suburban Atlanta, Georgia, Chai Peking is a neighborhood institution. For over 21 years, Chai Peking has been serving classic Chinese takeout dishes to the local community. Despite a tiny dedicated space measuring only 500 square feet, the restaurant offers both a steam table buffet as well as made-to-order wok dishes, with a robust menu to rival any full-size Chinese restaurant, from General Tso’s and sesame chicken to udon noodles and egg rolls.
SHOP DELIGHT GREAT NECK, NY
T H I S F U L L-S E RV I C E grocery store directly across from the Great Neck train station stocks everything from produce and Sadaf specialty spices to a full bakery. However, they are best known for their Persian takeout counter. At the deli, Persian-style marinated chicken and beef kebabs are lined up in neat rows, ready to be grilled to order. At
the bakery, sangak, a traditional Persian sourdough flatbread, is piled high next to the baguettes and challahs. You can even pick up Persian staples like sweet carrot rice and the thick, hearty beansand-greens soup known as ash reshteh. The deli also offers more typical kosher supermarket fare like wraps and sushi, but for a more unique experience, the Persian dishes are a must. EAST SIDE KOSHER DELI DENVER, CO
DENVER, COLORADO IS a top US travel destination, but the small Jewish community makes a full-size kosher restaurant impractical, even with the seasonal influx of tourists. East Side Kosher Deli fills that gap with an all-inone supermarket, butcher shop, deli and restaurant. Unlike most supermarket restaurants, East Side does offer a full seating area — convenient for tourists who don’t want to eat in their hotel rooms. Guests can opt for a grab-andgo meal of standard deli-counter fare or sit down for a proper entrée served on china — a burger, salad or even a steak. And while a kosher deli deep in the JANUARY 2022
Fleishigs
83
RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
Dangerously good food.
90
Fleishigs
JANUARY 2022
www.fleishigs.com
RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
BY: CHANA ZELDA WEISS RECIPES BY: CHEF MINA NEWMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY: SHIMI KUTNER
NIKKEI CUISINE HAS taken the world by storm over the last decade, and while some may be familiar with the classic ceviche you might find on a Nikkei menu, most diners know little about the rich history that has shaped the cuisine. The story begins back in the late 1800s, when Japanese immigrants began crossing the Pacific in search of prosperity and the chance to provide a better future for their children. Once Peru became the first country in South America to accept Japanese immigrants, local businesses began to bring this new labor force into the country. Before long, many of the Japanese immigrants were flourishing, building families, homes and communities, as well as successful businesses.
JANUARY 2022
Fleishigs
91
COOKBOOK
140
Fleishigs
JANUARY 2022
www.fleishigs.com
COOKBOOK
JANUARY 2022
Fleishigs
141
SOMETHING SWEET
Banana Spring Rolls Yield: 12 spring rolls
The banana spring rolls at Bodhi Thai, a vegan restaurant in Los Angeles, inspired Shifra to create this feature; when I was in Los Angeles visiting family recently, I was fortunate enough to try the ever popular dessert. I loved the warm, crisp spring rolls and knew I had to create my own. 4 2
spring roll wrappers, defrosted bananas, sliced into 1-inch rounds Oil, for frying Chocolate ganache, for serving
1. Slice each wrapper into thirds. To assemble, place 2-3 banana rounds onto the bottom corner of one strip of a spring roll wrapper. Fold over the banana to form a triangle. Continue wrapping until completely covered. Repeat with remaining wrappers and banana rounds. 2. Heat about 1½-2 inches of oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Working in batches, fry spring rolls for 1-2 minutes per side, until golden brown. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. To serve, drizzle with chocolate ganache. VA R I AT I O N S : Spread peanut butter or chocolate hazelnut spread (or both!) onto the wrapper before adding the mashed banana.
C H O C O L AT E GA N AC H E : Heat 1 cup non-dairy creamer and 1 tablespoon instant coffee in a saucepan over medium heat. Once hot, remove from heat and stir in 1 (12-ounce) package chocolate chips. Allow to sit in warm cream for a minute. Stir until smooth and silky.
156
Fleishigs
JANUARY 2022
www.fleishigs.com
SOMETHING SWEET
JANUARY 2022
Fleishigs
157