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The wonders of corned beef 10
EDITOR’S LETTER
14 ESSENTIALS What you need and where to get it 19
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ASK THE EXPERT Your pressing questions, answered
34 BREAKING BREAD Sweeten up your challah for the holiday season 40 SEASONAL Jerusalem market salads 62 PROFILE Sephardic Spice Girls 66 BACK POCKET Kasha
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An outdoor Sukkot feast
74 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Gathering at Wolf & Lamb to celebrate the launch of the new Fleishigs app 112 COOKBOOK Good Food by Sina Mizrahi 100 L’CHAIM Perfect wines for Sukkos 122 TRAVEL Mexico City 134 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Hagefen Cellars 138 FAMILY DINNERS Simple kid-friendly dinners 144 RECIPE INDEX 146 LAST BITE Hawaij Brownie Lava Cakes
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OUR TRADITION ABOUNDS with methods for noseto-tail cooking. Yes, steaks are easy, but what do you do with the other (tougher) parts of the steer? Braising is one answer – brisket, pot roast, etc. Pickling (curing or corning) is another and both are definitely secure in the Ashkenazi food canon. Corned beef is generally made from deckle, shoulder cap or brisket of the steer, which is a very lean and tough cut, tenderized through a process of salting, curing and seasoning. Corned beef may be sold ready to eat, raw or cooked. If the latter, it usually has already been cured
and cooked, but not long enough to be fully tender and may still require several hours of steaming. This can be done easily in a multicooker (such as an Instant Pot) or in a tightly-covered pot on the stovetop or in the oven. Corned beef that is sold raw needs to be cooked by either braising, steaming or pressure cooking for hours to tenderize. A popular finishing touch for a whole corned beef is a sweet mustard glaze – mix equal parts mustard and apricot jam, then spread over the corned beef after braising and broil for 3-4 minutes, until sauce is golden and caramelized.
A Little History Corned beef was first made popular in Ireland, where taxes on salt were lower and therefore the preserved beef made with large “korns” of salt was more affordable. Irish corned beef was eventually shipped worldwide and gained a strong following in New York City in the late 19th century, where Jewish and Irish immigrants settled in large numbers. Jewish butchers picked up the recipe to make the favorite meat of their Irish neighbors. This is why corned beef is at the epicenter of both Irish (corned beef and cabbage) and Jewish (corned beef piled high on Jewish rye) food culture. 22
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Know Your Deli C O R N E D B E E F:
lean; mild; salty M O N T R E A L S M O K E D M E AT:
medium lean; cured with lots of garlic and spices PAST R A M I :
marbled; pungent exterior spice rub that includes coriander
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Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertly-butchered premium-quality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces beef, veal, lamb and poultry raised on pasture with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at growandbehold.com.
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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
Chef Rigoberto Mosso
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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
Wold & Lamb owner Zalman Wuensch
Rabbi Sholom and Danit Schusterman Avital Chizhik-Goldschmidt, Shifra Klein, Shlomo Klein and Rabbi Benjamin Goldschmidt Danielle Renov, Raquel Shapiro, Naomi Elberg and Elisheva Taitz
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FLEISHIGS X AJ MADISON COOKBOOK LAUNCH EVENT
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P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y: M E M U S H A M I T SEPTEMBER 2021
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FAMILY DINNERS
Danielle Renov, food blogger and bestselling cookbook author of Peas Love & Carrots, shares two easy, kid-friendly dinners. Beyond her acclaimed cookbook, Danielle is a mother and famously cooks delicious homemade dinners almost every day. The following dinners will be ready before you know it and are flavorful and satisfying — perfect for Chol Hamoed.
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