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BUTCHER'S CUT
This month, we explore the underrated cut of beef cheek with the help of some experts
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EDITOR’S LETTER
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GADGETS Chef Avner Guzman's tools of the trade
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UNIQUE STAPLES Our favorite ingredients for
26 SHABBOS FEAST
Ahuva Schwartz of The Katamon Kitchen shares a #shabbattogo menu and tips
cooking this issue 46 L'CHAIM Choosing wines for
Shabbos 58 SEASONAL Highlighting the work of private chefs • Moshe Wendel: A Kosher Pioneer • Sruli Subar: A Logistics Expert • Aviva Friedman: Fine Dining at Home • Isaac Bernstein: Revolutionizing Kosher
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CULINARY SCHOOL
Behind the scenes with Chef Avner Guzman
96 BACK POCKET Private chefs Hudi Riven and Hunny Khodorkovsky share their favorite versatile dishes 106 TRAVEL • Traveling in luxury with KPC Concierge • Miriam Wallach’s trip to Maui 120 INTERVIEW Mixology at home with Jazz Age Cocktails 124 COOKBOOK The Instant Pot® Kosher Cookbook by Paula Shoyer
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SOMETHING SWEET
Bracha Arnold elevates classic desserts
128 RECIPE INDEX 130 LAST BITE
BUTCHER'S CUT
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BEEF CHEEKS B Y: N A F TA L I H A N AU P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y: S C H N E U R M E N A K E R MY FIRST ENCOUNTER with beef cheeks and your favorite fixing. When our kids happened on a trip with my Rebbe were little, beef cheeks were one of the when I was learning shechita (slaugh- first meats they enjoyed, cooked very ter). We had flown out to a red meat simply with onions and carrots. For plant in Colorado and arrived late. On Rosh Hashana, we enjoyed them with the way to our hotel, we stopped at the a rich, smoky mole sauce. While not plant where we’d be working the next nearly as popular as pot roast or brisday. We took a bag of beef cheeks from ket, there are only two cheeks per steer (obviously!), so they can be hard the previous week’s shechita and to come by; we definitely have added them to a slow cooker TIP customers who make sure to with beer, diced carrots and Don’t have order this cut as soon as it’s onions. We plugged it in, beef cheek? Try shin meat or available. locked the office and went baby kolichel You can sear the meat beto our hotel. When we came instead. fore braising, but you don’t back the next day before sunhave to. We certainly didn’t on rise, the office smelled amazing and we enjoyed a wonderful hot lunch that cold night at the slaughterhouse and that meal was one of the best workafter the day’s work was done. Like other braising cuts, after a ing lunches during my days in the field! long, slow cook in liquid, beef cheeks become tender and soft. The high Naftali Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, a level of collagen creates a silky tex- company that specializes in expertly-butchered premium quality kosher meats that are delivered ture, similar to shin meat, making beef nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him cheeks a wonderful option for tacos or to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, produces pasture-raised beef, veal, lamb other meat sandwiches. Just shred and which and poultry with no hormones or antibiotics. Find serve with hot sauce, crunchy lettuce out more at www.growandbehold.com. JANUARY 2021
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Ahuva’s Cooking Tips Always make sure to read the recipe in its entirety — including the directions and any relevant notes. It’s important to have your equipment and ingredients prepared. In the restaurant we always make sure that all cooking equipment is heated to the right temperature and that we are fully stocked and prepared for service. It’s the same in the home kitchen — you want your oven to be waiting for you, not the other way around. For my Shabbat catering I always make sure that everything is ready to go; I have a list of what needs to be made on the stovetop and what goes in the oven and in which order. This helps make the process more efficient.
Moroccan Fish Rainbow Quinoa
Make sure you are working with sharp knives, which are far less dangerous than dull ones. If you’re slicing a vegetable with a dull knife, rather than cutting through the vegetable, it could slip and slice your finger. Salt is crucial for bringing out food’s natural flavors, so season as you go to build flavor. Don’t leave salt out of a recipe, especially in baking! Another key ingredient is acid, which wakes up the palate and brightens everything up. A sprinkling of flaky salt and/or a squeeze of lemon will elevate any dish.
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SHABBOS FEAST
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BY: SHIFRA KLEIN R E C I P E S B Y: C H E F AV N E R G U Z M A N
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FEATURE PAGE
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SEASONAL
BY: CHANA ZELDA WEISS RECIPES BY: MOSHE WENDEL
Many kosher restaurants have come and gone, but there are few that evoke as much nostalgia as Pardes. The now-closed progressive Frenchinspired bistro, featuring a constantly changing seasonal menu and a relaxed, rustic atmosphere, was the brainchild of Chef Moshe Wendel, perhaps one of the most innovative kosher chefs in the world.
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BY: CHANA ZELDA WEISS RECIPES BY: SRULI SUBAR
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B Y: E L I S H E VA TA I T Z R E C I P E S B Y: AV I VA F R I E D M A N
Aviva Friedman did not always plan to follow a career path in the culinary arts — she had her sights set on becoming a lawyer. Something clicked in 2010, after dining with her mother at Basil Pizza & Wine Bar, Crown Heights’ up-and-coming restaurant that played a great role in revolutionizing what kosher cuisine could be.
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BY: CHANA ZELDA WEISS RECIPES BY: CHEF ISAAC BERNSTEIN
HAWAIIAN KAMPACHI with sea vegetables and jalapeño sorbet; pastured lamb chop with black cumin and apricot fennel purée; crescent steak with smoked potato, broccoli rabe and charred leek. These were just a few of the dishes you would find on the menu of the extravagant, 17-course dinner thrown by the Bay Area-based Epic Bites kosher catering company under the helm of New York-native Chef Isaac Bernstein.
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RECIPES BY: HUDI RIVEN
S H I F R A' S N O T E :
When I asked expert private chef Hudi Riven for his go-to fish recipes, he sent me a wonderful seared sea bass dish and his technique for making gravlax at home. Had I not made the recipes myself and seen the results, I would have been too intimidated to tackle these recipes. But after making both his dishes, I now have two very different fish recipes in my back pocket as a go-to when looking to make something easy, yet elegant.
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BACK POCKET
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