M E D I U M D O N E W E L L A W E ’ R E
BATTLE OF THE BULGE.
ISSUE DEC. 2020
CHANUKAH, OOH NA-NA: A CELEBRATION OF JUBAN COOKING.
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LET THERE BE LIGHT! AN EASY, FRY-FREE SHABBOS MENU.
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BUTCHER'S CUT
This month, meat expert Naftali Hanau discusses the wonders of deckle roast
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EDITOR’S LETTER
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BACKPOCKET Donut guide: Everything you need to know to make the best donuts at home, every time.
82 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Fireside: Where the meat pizza was born 92 TRAVEL Colorado
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SEASONAL
International Fried Chanukah: Travel the globe and fry beyond latkes and donuts
104 CULINARY SCHOOL Bagel making 112 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Terra di Seta winery 118 GIFT GUIDE Something for everyone this Chanukah season 123 COOKBOOK Exclusive recipes from some of the seasons hottest new cookbooks 126 L'CHAIM International wines to gift 128 RECIPE INDEX
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130 LAST BITE The Red Herring
CHANUKAH FEAST
Chanukah in Havana with Reena Goldberger GUEST EDITOR: NAOMI ELBERG @NAOMI_TGIS
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SHABBOS
Lighten up your Shabbos meal
NAOMI ELBERG , originally from Montreal and now living in Michigan, found her true calling for baking after working in early childhood education for nearly 10 years. In 2014, TGIS Challah was born (aka Thank Goodness it’s Shabbos), offering homemade challah, babka and more to locals. Naomi started doing cooking and baking demonstrations nationwide and grew her following and passion for all things baked. Naomi can be reached at TGIS.challah@gmail.com or on Instagram @naomi_TGIS.
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BY: NAOMI ELBERG PHOTOGRAPHY BY: SCHNEUR MENAKER
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Beaver Tails are a famous Canadian dessert — sweet yeast dough that is shaped to resemble a beaver’s tail, fried and topped with a dusting of cinnamon sugar and a squeeze of fresh lemon. Over the years, the tails have gone from basic to gourmet, similar to sufganiyot. The dough is easy to make, either by hand or with a mixer, and contains simple ingredients. Unlike sufganiyot, there’s no “pocket” to fill — the fillings go on top instead, making it extra fun for the entire family. All you need to do is set out frostings and various toppings, give each toddler, kid or adult their own mini offset spatula and you’re good to go.
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IT’S SAFE TO SAY THAT AFTER DAY TWO, EVERYONE IS PRETTY MUCH OVER THE STANDARD JELLY OR CUSTARD DONUT. MIX IT UP A LITTLE AND SERVE SOMETHING FRESH, SOMETHING NEW, SOMETHING FRIED. BY: S H I F R A K L E I N
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S H I F R A’ S NOTE
OUR SEARCH FOR THE PERFECT BAGEL LANDED US IN H O T WAT E R After our trip to Rosenberg’s Kosher Bagel Shop in Denver, Colorado this past summer, we were inspired to learn the art of making bagels at home. Making bagels seems so intimidating and is something I have never personally attempted. However, COVID-19 has sparked the hidden baker in many of us and summer 2020 was the perfect time to tackle this feat. The kosher world is filled with many talented bakers, chefs and recipe developers. Naomi Elberg, who runs the popular Instagram account @naomi_tgis, is one such individual and has mastered the art of yeast baking. I reached out to Naomi for guidance on bagel making and learned that she had two varieties to share — classic New York and Montreal style. As a New York native, the concept of Montreal bagels was new to me. Montreal-style bagels are sweeter and have a lighter bite, whereas New Yorkstyle bagels are more dense and chewy. I had mixed feelings about which version I’d feature but ultimately decided to share both so that you can choose your preference … or be extra like us — make both and enjoy a bagel tasting.
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