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June 2018
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THE ART OF
Fine Dining
A slow drive here. A fast drive back. A5 Sportback
The highest customer-rated Audi dealership in Utah. Just 25 minutes south of Salt Lake. 801.438.8495 / AudiLehi.com / 3455 North Digital Drive, Lehi, UT 84043 / South of Adobe
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contents
M AY/JUNE 2018 Executive Chef Zane Holmquist, Glitretind
FEATURES
68 DINE, FINE. BY MARY BROWN MALOUF
Most get nervous at the very idea of fine dining. Which fork, glass or plate should you use? But fine dining isn’t dead yet, and the practice of being a fine diner is easier than you think.
74 UTAH’S RESEARCH BREAKTHROUGHS BY ASHLEY SZANTER
Scientists and researchers in Utah’s universities and organizations are striving to make us happier and healthier. Sometimes, that includes snails, fish and robotic hands.
82 CENTERING
YOUR EVENT PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
BY MARY BROWN MALOUF AND ASHLEY SZANTER
68
MAGAZINE OF THE MOUNTAIN WEST
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Strange Science IN THE BEEHIVE THE ART OF
Fine Dining
Scenic view of the Salt Flats at sunset. Two piece swimsuit by Albion Fit, top $88, bottom $64. Model: Ashleigh Soedel. Photo by Adam Finkle.
Summertime always includes a litany of graduations and warm weather weddings. Where should you host your next event? We’ve got the inside scoop on 6 perfect spaces for your next occasion.
88 JUMP IN BY JEANINE MILLER
Find the perfect suit for summer swimming—as well as where you should go for a refreshing dip this season.
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52 worth a trip
Most only think of Moab or St. George when looking to trek to Southern Utah, but you should definitely give Bluff, Utah a try. BY JEREMY PUGH
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27 the hive
Avocados take center stage, Mike Angelieri features “Humans of SLC,” all that glitters just might be gold in summer skincare, Ogden’s cemetery ghost and much more.
42 statewide
The Salt Lake City Public Library’s new director has some ideas about how to address the future of libraries and their place in the community.
63 outdoors
A picture is a worth a thousand words, and with Utah’s famous outdoors, you’ll want some tips on taking eloquent nature photos. BY TONY GILL
107 a&e
Hamilton brings hip hop to the Wasatch, locals use art to address mental illness and a local band embodies old-school country.
141 dining guide
The best of Salt Lake’s ever-growing and ever-changing dining scene. BY MARY BROWN MALOUF
BY MATT LAPLANTE
47 biz
Glass Spider Publishing makes a name for local authors, and students at the U are entering the “real world” well before graduation. BY ASHLEY SZANTER AND MADALINE SLACK
170 bar fly
Bruce Larrabee
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PARK CITY LIFE Head of The Winter Sports School educates future Olympic hopefuls, a quick game to learn the tricks of parking in Park City, Bruce Larrabee’s iconic ceramics and new restaurant Cortana redefines authentic Italian cuisine.
Beehive’s big new space and the secret about the latest buzz. BY MARY BROWN MALOUF
176 my turn
Listen to the children. BY JOHN SHUFF
volume 29 number 3 Salt Lake magazine (ISSN# 1524-7538) is published bimonthly (February, April, June, August, October and December) by Utah Partners Publishing, Ltd. Editorial, advertising and administrative offices: 515 S. 700 East, Suite 3i, SLC, UT 84102. Telephone 801-485-5100; fax 801-485-5133. Subscriptions: One year ($17.95); two years ($24.95); for shipping outside the U.S. add $45. Toll-free subscription number: 877-553-5363. Periodicals Postage Paid at Salt Lake City, Utah, and additional mailing offices. Copyright 2018, JES Publishing Corp. No whole or part of the contents may be reproduced in any manner without prior written permission of Salt Lake magazine, excepting individually copyrighted articles and photographs. Manuscripts accompanied by SASE are accepted, but no responsibility will be assumed for unsolicited contributions. POSTMASTER: Send address corrections to Salt Lake magazine, PO Box 820, Boca Raton, FL 33429.
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A standing ovation at Eccles Theater. An encore at Abravanel Hall. A breathtaking ballet or spellbinding opera at Capitol Theater. When you’re a City Creek homeowner, you can applaud Utah’s best arts and entertainment at world-class venues just steps from your door. Call today to schedule a tour of City Creek’s designer model homes and experience gracious condominium living in the center of it all.
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Who Ya Gonna Call? FOR SNAKES, IT’S DAVID JENSEN.
the
hive PEOPLE | TRENDS | TALK
BY DEVON ALEXANDER BROWN
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By the Numbers . . . . . Dish . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Profile . . . . . . . . . . . . . Beauty . . . . . . . . . . . . . How To . . . . . . . . . . . . Insider . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chatter . . . . . . . . . . . . . State Wide . . . . . . . . . . #loveutah . . . . . . . . . .
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PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
he fear of snakes is called ophidiophobia. And David Jensen, owner of Wasatch Snake Removal, does not have it. It’s illegal to kill the 31 snake species native to Utah. Resuming each May, Jensen carefully removes them from private residences and the NHMU grounds with a snake hook and tongs. “My years of snake experience have taught me that snakes have very little in common with those satanic creatures from the Bible,” Jensen said. “They deserve better.” Only five deaths have come from native snakes. But if you see one in your yard, don’t get cocky. Jensen’s on call 24/7. wasatchsnakeremoval.com
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on the table
“Dinner is served.”
FINE DINING used to be the pinnacle on which we all aspired to eat. Now, the tradition is pretty much confined to PBS period dramas. BY MARY BROWN MALOUF PHOTOS BY ADAM FINKLE
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s fine dining dead?
Wait. Before we try to answer that question, here’s another: What is (or was) fine dining? Is it all about having to confront a daunting array of forks and glassware? Is there a difference between fine dining and expensive dining? Is there a difference between formal dining and fine dining? I asked a number of local chefs—all experienced in high-end kitchens—what they thought of the future of what we used to call “white tablecloth” restaurants. Are we redefining fine?
THE RESORT:
HIGH ON THE MOUNTAIN TOP The ski resorts are one of the last vestiges of fine dining in Utah. As Utah’s rough and tumble ski culture was infiltrated by outsiders accustomed to the established luxury of European ski resorts, local resorts began to polish up their silver and their acts. Stein Eriksen’s Glitretind has long been considered the ne plus ultra of ski-and-dine; Executive Chef Zane Holmquist reflects on how to keep that reputation while serving people dressed in baseball caps and T-shirts. “Fine dining is a luxury, not a need,” he says. “People want to escape to a cushioned environment. They want to be coddled and buffered from reality. It’s not
Chef Zane Holmquist
about the price; it’s about the experience. If there was not a tablecloth, my mom wouldn’t consider it fine dining. It’s a signal that the restaurant is going to pay attention to details. Fine dining is more about the service level and the experience than the food. You can get phenomenal food from a pizza place or a taco stand.” According to Holmquist, New York City was one of the last bastions of formal dining in the U.S. But no one dresses up in New York anymore. There’s not necessarily a rose on every table covered with a white cloth or servers in tuxedos. “To me, it’s the service,” says Holmquist. At the fine dining level, the service is anticipatory—servers know what you need before you do, they control the pace of the
meal, so courses come at gracious intervals and there is plenty of time for diners to converse. Of course, the food has to be impeccable. But the restaurant needs to create a sense of occasion. Half of our diners are not tourists, but Utahns in for a special occasion.” Still, Glitretind is part of a resort—that means their fine diners often include children, and these days, they are not supposed to be seen and not heard. It can’t be stuffy—the old rules about dinner jackets can’t apply to guests who are there for an outdoorsy vacation. And, Holmquist points out, dining habits have changed. “People don’t always want a multi-course dinner. Technology has broken a lot of fine dining etiquette barriers, especially in the
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STRANGE SCIENCE, SERIOUS SOLUTIONS Utah’s researchers work to make people healthier and happier. By Ashley Szanter Photos by Adam Finkle
T’S AN IDEA straight out of science fiction, and yet it’s very real: A prosthetic hand that connects to the brain as seamlessly as a natural limb, bending and twisting and grasping in response to brain waves. An amputated limb used to mean completely relearning everyday tasks. But not anymore—just ask Keven Walgamott, the primary test subject for a revolutionary new prosthetic that could give amputees not only full control of a cutting-edge prosthetic, but also their lost sense of touch. Losing his left hand and foot after being electrocuted at his Boise home, Walgamott now participates in one of hundreds of trials led by Utah researchers who are creating innovative solutions to the most perplexing problems of the body and brain. Utah is home to scores of groundbreaking research from the University of Utah’s Huntsman Cancer Institute to Utah’s Science Technology and Research Organization (USTAR). And, while all of the stories herein are still in development or clinical trials, early discoveries promise to make the lives of Utahns, and those anywhere who struggle with everything from addiction to amputation, better.
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Keven Walgamott
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MAY SCIENCE BE WITH YOU “I WAS A big do-it-yourselfer,” says Walgamott. But he had no idea that his penchant for DIYing would eventually cost him not one, but two, of his limbs. “I was at our home in Boise, and we had our grass irrigated by a 20 ft well. The submersible pump went out, so I was going to change it. I pulled the pump up, but just about 5 feet away were some high voltage power lines. I pulled the pipe up and the electricity arced over on to the pipe—I was electrocuted,” recalls Walgamott. The current entered his left hand and ran through his body, exiting out his left foot. “I was life-flighted to the burn unit at USU.” Though doctors tried to save his left foot, Walgamott ended up needing both the foot and his left hand amputated. He is unsure how much electricity coursed through his body, but it was enough to earn him some notoriety. “I know I knocked 30,000 homes out of electricity. I guess I was famous in that way.”
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SOAKING UP THE SHORT SUMMER.
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Swimsuit, Lime Ricki, (top $57, bottoms $38); Necklace, Katie Waltman ($34); Bracelet, Shoshanna Lee, Farasha ($80); Ring, Shoshanna Lee, Farasha ($253); Hat, Hip & Humble ($53); Sunglasses, Oliver People’s Cake Boutique ($415); Tote Bag, Caroline, Katie Waltman ($28); Jellies, American Apparel ($43)
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WATER PARK
Swimsuit, Stella Mccartney, Cake Boutique, (top $155, bottoms $105); earrings, Namedroppers ($40); sunglasses, Katie Waltman, ($55); bracelet, Shoshanna Lee, Farasha ($495)
S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M | M A Y / J U N E 2 0 1 8
Seven Peaks Water Park has all the slippery slides to inspire screeches from happy kids. You can take a vertical plunge from the top of a 70-foot tower, then travel more than 30 mph down a 244-footlong headfirst slide to the bottom. Or—you can choose an inner tube, kick back and float your day away on a 5 mph current of a meandering 1,200-foot-long river. 1200 W. 1700 South, SLC, 801-972-3300
Swimsuit, Indah, Namedroppers ($99); Kimono, Maison du Soir, Cake Boutique ($264); Necklaces, Katie Waltman (short $58, medium $52, long $58); hand chain, Namedroppers ($22); sunglasses, Tom Ford, Cake Boutique ($390); Hat, Gigi Pip, Joli ($54); Sandals, Lime Ricki ($41)
WATERFALL SWIM Calf Creek Falls. Just down the roller coaster road from the tiny town of Boulder lies the trail to paradise. It can be a hot trek, but don’t be discouraged; Pack a book and a cool drink and spend all day at this oasis. Fed by a waterfall, the pool is always cool. utah.com/hiking/calf-creekfalls-lower
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HARMON’S BEST DAM BIKE RIDE
--------------------HARMON’S BEST DAM BIKE RIDE HARMON’S HARMON’S HARMON’S BEST BEST BEST DAM DAM DAM BIKE BIKE BIKE RIDE RIDE RIDE HARMON’S HARMON’S HARMON’S BEST BEST DAM DAM BEST BIKEBIKE DAM RIDERIDE BIKE RIDE PR E S EN TE D L O C A LLY B Y
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HARMON'S BEST DAM BIKE RIDE
IT’S MORE MORE T’S MORE IT’S IT’S MORE MORE
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a&e ARTS | ENTERTAINMENT
HAMILTON COMPANY - HAMILTON NATIONAL TOUR, PHOTO JOAN MARCUS
Small Lake City . . . . . 108 Artist Cara Jean . . . . 110 Calendar . . . . . . . . . . 112
Join the revolution BROADWAY JUGGERNAUT Hamilton— An American Musical wraps up its time at The Eccles on May 6. Lin-Manuel Miranda’s multi-ethnic musical explores the life and times of Alexander Hamilton, right-hand man to George Washington himself. Using music that runs the gamut from hip hop to rap and R&B, Hamilton will transport you back to the Revolutionary War where immigrants got the job done.
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dining GUIDE FOOD | DINING
PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
Pretty Bird . . . . . . . . . Normal Ice Cream . . . Nomad Eatery . . . . . . Tastemakers . . . . . . . Pat’s BBQ . . . . . . . . . .
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Viet Pham takes a break, which seldom happens at his wildly popular new restaurant.
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dining guide
NEWCOMER
Pretty (and Pink.) HOT STUFF: Nashville hot fried chicken is what Pretty Bird does. You choose how hot.
IF YOU GO
ADDRESS: 146 S Regent St, SLC EMAIL: info@ prettybirdchicken.com ENTREES: $$ (Moderate)
S A LT L A K E M A G A Z I N E . C O M | M A Y / J U N E 2 0 1 8
A
nd that’s a good thing. None dare call it fry sauce. Chef Viet Pham gets red in the face if you refer to the pink PB sauce on his sandwiches as fry sauce. “It is NOT fry sauce,” he says. “It is so much more complicated than that.” Pham tinkered with a wide array of spices, herbs and, of course, “secret ingredients” to come up with Pretty Bird sauce. Who knows what makes it pink? Doesn’t matter—call it delicious, and it sure doesn’t taste like fry sauce. Pretty Bird is the Regent Street restaurant Salt Lake foodies have been anticipating for a year, maybe longer? Or maybe it just seems longer because our mouths had been watering to taste Pham’s food ever since he left Forage. (By the way, where are you,
Bowman Brown?) Now, the Bird has landed. And no one is disappointed. Well, some people complain about the long lines, the minimal seating, a kitchen that regularly runs out of food before closing (even though there are only two entrees on the menu, and they’re both fried chicken). But most of us are raving about the taste of the sandwich and get in line for another one. Pham wanted to bring Nashville hot chicken to Utah, and he did, but that sounds too easy. The standard for hot fried chicken is Prince’s Chicken Shack in Nashville—the family claims the original recipe (hint: lots of cayenne) and has had lines of customers for 70 years or so.
Prince’s serves it in true Southern style; on white bread with a pickle and the drinks are in the cooler. Almost needless to say, Pham has taken his chicken a bit further. He worked with Eva Boulangerie to develop a recipe for the perfect bun: One that can hold up to a dark-crusted fried boneless chicken thigh, a mound of red coleslaw, housemade pickles and some of that PB sauce I mentioned. Four degrees of heat, mild, medium, hot and hot “behind”—choose your poison, as cocktail drinkers said in the 50s—as a sandwich or a quarter chicken, light or dark. Fries come from the same place that makes Shake Shack’s fries. As Chicken Shack owner Andre Prince said, “It can be a punishment and a joy at the same time.”
PHOTO ADAM FINKLE
Viet Pham’s new Nashville hot chicken spot has Salt Lakers squawking.
bar
21 & OVER BARS
FLY
Forget about navigating the state’s labyrinth of liquor laws— the more than 20 bars and pubs listed here prioritize putting a drink in your hand, although most of them serve good food, too. Restricted to 21 and over. (Be prepared to show your I.D., whatever your age. This is Utah, after all.)
LIBATIONS | BARS
All bars listed in the Salt Lake Bar Fly have been vetted and chosen based on quality of beverage, food, atmosphere and service. This selective guide has no relationship to any advertising in the magazine.
Bigger is better Beehive Distilling is EXPANDING. BY MARY BROWN MALOUF
People outside Utah—well, and some Utahns, too—are astonished to learn about the state’s booming distillery business. The fact that we now have 10 operating distilleries doesn’t square with their preconception about a buttoned-up beehive state. But it’s true. And we don’t just have more distilleries, we have bigger ones. Beehive Distilling just opened a new location that provides 6,000 square feet of space to make gin and vodka.
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Review visits are anonymous, and all expenses are paid by Salt Lake magazine.