Issuu

Autumn This season's best places to eat, stay, shop and visit in the South West

‘The most simple but joyful everyday ritual’ Breakfast at St Enodoc, Rock, page 19

he theme of this issue is

soups, steaming sticky puddings

‛ritual’. It's a concept so

and sinking into warm baths after

deeply woven into our

a season of showers.

culture that the term has been in use for half a millennium. Now, of course, we throw it around when talking about our skincare routine or the way we make coffee each morning, but it was first used in the 1500s to describe a way of performing religious services (rites).

Another regular practice I've been drawn to recently is the pleasure of old-school analogue reading. I've swapped my audiobook habit for paperbacks, and also subscribed to a couple of magazines. The quiet, screen-free moments they've given me have been a joy. I hope

The importance of ritual lies in

this issue of Food Lifestyle provides

the comfort of knowing exactly

the same for you.

what will happen in that particular moment. When you're bombarded daily by bad news from around the world, they offer a reassuring feeling of control. The most simple but joyful everyday ritual is, undoubtedly, breakfast.

Jo Rees Editorial director and founder, Salt Media  jo_rees browser food-mag.co.uk  foodlifestylesw Facebook‑F foodlifestylesw

And recently, I had one of the best at Paul and Emma Ainsworth's newly launched St Enodoc in Rock. Tucking into granola and a flat white on the beautiful terrace while gazing over the Camel Estuary was very special. Although it's always a sad moment when summer ends, there's solace to be found in autumn's routines: lighting candles at the first hint of dusk, picking sloes for gin, swapping salads for homemade

Scan to get the magazine delivered to your door.

Editorial Wiktoria Jazwinska, Abi Manning, Jane Rakison, Jo Rees, Rosanna Rothery and Selena Young Design Christopher Mulholland Publishing Charlotte Cummins, Tamsin Powell Accounts Richard Bailey Commercial/advertising Nick Cooper, Claire Fegan, Jeni Smith ‑ 01271 859182 Publisher Salt Media – ideas@saltmedia.co.uk, 01271 859299, saltmedia.co.uk Cover image Autumn at Kiln Sauna in Cornwall – see page 21. Image by Lucy Laucht browser food-mag.co.uk

 foodlifestylesw

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Thanks to our clients for supporting the magazine that supports South West independent businesses. Copyright The contents of this magazine are fully protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without permission. Disclaimer We choose the businesses included in Food Lifestyle features based on editorial integrity. Sometimes, inclusions will be handpicked from clients with whom we have a commercial relationship. While every effort has been made to ensure that adverts, details and articles appear correctly, Food Lifestyle cannot accept responsibility for any loss or damage caused directly or indirectly by the contents of this publication. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of its publisher or editor. Print We're serious about protecting the planet, which is why we print using solvent‑free inks on FSC‑certified paper, working with a printer that holds ISO14001 certification for environmental good practice. Published 2026 ISSN 2977‑5582 (print) ISSN 2977‑5590 (online).

This

issue

18 54

70 48 14

F E AT U R E S 8. Eight things to do this season The rituals edit.

W E E K E N D

C O O K I N G

54. Signature Stein It's been over half a century since Rick and Jill Stein opened The Seafood

14. Tastemakers: Harry's The mother-and-daughters-run restaurant that's held its status as a beloved dining spot since 1993.

18. The curation: the arrivals Hot new spots to add to your autumn hit list.

Restaurant in Padstow. They share a signature recipe with our readers.

58. The pastry pro: weekend baking ritual Stacey Bretschneider, pastry chef and co-owner of Restaurant Roots in

E AT I N G

O U T

25. Restaurant reviews We visit The Barley Sheaf, Sydney's, The Ebrington Arms and The Queen's Arms.

T R AV E L 36. The full works: The Collective at Woolsery A garden-meets-gourmet experience at a horticultural haven.

Bournemouth, shares her recipe for vanilla breakfast brioche.

60. Advantage, Exeter The View's head chef Matt Mason on combining cooking with the drama of top-level rugby.

62. Scott's hero ingredients: apples Scott Paton of Michelin-starred Àclèaf in Plymouth shares tips on how to use autumn's apples.

42. Cool places to stay Ease into autumn with a stay that's in step with the rituals and rhythms of the season.

48. Tried and tested: Trenalt by Beach Retreats Discover one of Cornwall's most exciting new spots for a group getaway.

D R I N K S 66. Jane Rakison's drinks diary Jane shares her little black book of wine lists.

70. The art of the slow coffee ritual Taking joy in the quiet moment of

74. Win!

A Signature Spa Break at Fistral Beach Hotel, a golf and feasting experience at Halwyn near Newquay, a coastal mini-break at The Wellington in Boscastle, a Trencherman's Guide bundle with Trevethan Gin and Navas mixers, and lunch at Sidmouth Donkey Sanctuary.

brewing a V60 pourover.

M O R E 80. Directory 82. Stockists

8 THE

RITUA LS

E D IT

Things to do this season 8

1. Pick up the thread Draw inspiration from a community of makers who've embraced the joy of creative craft rituals. The founder of our favourite embroidery kit company The Fabled Thread (thefabledthread. com), Eppie Thompson, says: ‘Creativity doesn't need to be productive to be valuable. Sometimes its greatest value lies in creating a small pocket of calm in an otherwise busy day. ‘The challenge is making space for this, and that's where creative rituals come in. Small, repeated habits can transform creativity from something we wish we did more often into something that becomes part of who we are.’

2. Shape your sanctuary The ritual of shaping a home takes centre stage at Darts Farm (dartsfarm.co.uk) in Topsham, thanks to its newly transformed home and lifestyle space, created with Indigenous (indigenous.co.uk) and Cycen (cycen.co.uk). The new showrooms bring together timeless design and beautiful craftsmanship, with a focus on sustainable materials. From natural flooring to modern and elegant kitchen designs, each element offers plenty of inspiration for creating a

Image: Chris Terry

unique home. ››

Image: Ariana Ruth

3. Craft in clay Taking a private pottery lesson in a calm, welcoming studio at Clay & Salt Ceramics (clayandsaltceramics.com) is a wonderful way to learn the skills for a new creative ritual.

5. Break good bread

No experience is needed, as sessions begin with an introduction to clay and a

Exmouth residents should add a bakery

demonstration of wheel throwing and

pitstop to their seafront walks by stopping

handbuilding techniques, before you're set

at Rise (risebakes.co) for carbs and coffee.

free to create your own piece (with expert

The temple to dough, a sister business

guidance). Throw small bowls and dishes on

to Exmouth beachside cafe bar Heydays

the wheel or handbuild anything from a mug

(heydaysdevon.co.uk), piles its counters

to a teapot at this studio in West Dorset.

high with loaves, sweet treats and savoury bakes, all made at its bakery in Bridport. Take a pew and sit in to watch the waves

4. Climb Glastonbury Tor Make

early-morning

crashing on the shore or grab a croissant and flattie to-go. ››

climb

Glastonbury Tor part of your autumn. When the season turns, mist often settles across the Somerset Levels and Avalon Marshes, transforming the landscape below into a sea of silvery cloud. Wrap up warm, pack a flask and pause beside St Michael's Tower to watch as the mist slowly lifts and the

Image: Matt Austin

countryside is revealed.

6. Eat the season The garden-to-plate ritual has taken on fresh meaning at Budock Vean Hotel & Spa

8. Forage sloe-ly

(budockvean.co.uk), where a newly planted kitchen garden is flourishing just steps from the chef's pass.

Autumn, when hedgerows are laden with seasonal

The team nurture everything from fragrant mint

fruit, is the time to forage for ingredients to be

and tender spinach to courgettes, leeks and cavolo

enjoyed in winter.

nero, ready for head chef Dale McIntosh to weave into his two-AA-rosette menus. Picked at their

Sloes are arguably the best find of all: a bag of

prime, the homegrown ingredients deliver vibrant

berries can be turned into a mellow sloe gin simply

flavours, exceptional freshness and reassuringly low

by sticking them in a bottle with gin and sugar.

•

food miles at the peaceful retreat near Falmouth.

7. Savour slow Saturdays

Discover our favourite sloe gin recipe (food-mag.co.uk).

Turn food shopping into a new kind of ritual at Crantock Farmers Market (crantockfarmersmarket. com). Held inside the barn at Halwyn (halwyn.co.uk) near Newquay, it's good whatever the weather. Swing by on the second Saturday of each month to pick up local seasonal produce like artisan bread, pastries, ferments, preserves, cheeses and meats, plus handmade goods, from growers and makers. Then grab something from the street-food stands for an easy lunch.

TA S T E M A K E R S

When

Rosanna met

Harry's

Image: Dirty Martini Marketing

The mother-and-daughtersrun restaurant has held its status as a beloved Exeter dining spot since 1993. Rosanna Rothery finds out why

or chef-proprietor Sam Pounds of Harry's in Exeter, gathering around the table for a feast with family and

friends is all part of a foodie lifestyle. Having grown up in a family of nine, she embodies the philosophy that sharing homecooked

Sam believes a female-led, family-run

food and lively chatter is integral to a joyful

kitchen and front-of-house team brings

way of life. Indeed, she's built her career on that premise.

other qualities too.

Sam runs Harry's with the help of her

‘We're not egotistical,’ she explains. ‘For instance, a great female chef will sometimes cook

daughters Zoe (chef), Tigerlily (front of

for an entirely different reason than a great male

house), India (part-time front of house) and

chef. At Harry's, we cook and host to nurture and

Phoebe (a lawyer who occasionally works front of house). Yet despite working like

provide. It's our way of giving and caring.’

Trojans in the kitchen and dining room at

The restaurant, housed in a beautiful

Harry's, they still love nothing more than

Victorian building on Longbrook Street,

serving up delicious food for family members

has been in the family since Sam's parents,

on their night off.

Annette and Simon, took it over in 1993

‘Our family dinner is a big deal,’ says Sam.

(they'd previously owned a restaurant on

‘Boyfriends who've come into the family can't

Queen Street).

believe we start with drinks and it turns into this

‘Originally, my mother and I worked in the kitchen

whole ritual of food and catching up.’

while my father ran front of house,’ says Sam. ‘My father was a real character. Everyone knew

Hospitality with heart

Simon. He was the Basil Fawlty of Exeter – and he lived up to it.

It's little surprise, then, that straightfrom-the-heart hospitality underpins every

‘When I eventually took the restaurant on, my

element of the food and drink experience at

biggest fear was that I wasn't a personality like

the restaurant.

my dad. Luckily, my bunch of fantastic girls have made up for it.’ ››

‘I always say to the staff, “You're not serving, you're hosting”,’ says Sam. ‘Those are massively

‘Luckily, my bunch of fantastic girls have made up for it’

different things.’ Tigerlily agrees: ‘It's vital to treat guests as if you are welcoming them into your own living space. There's never a sense of rush, and we put dishes on the menu that we think people will enjoy – not because they're easy to cook or cheaper to make.’ Left to right: Tigerlily, Phoebe, Sam, Zoe and India

Other images: Dirty Martini Marketing

Image: Matt Austin

‘You just have to be brave enough to hold the line’

Family bonds Over the years, Sam and her daughters have mixed and matched roles in the kitchen and restaurant alongside a tight-knit, longstanding team of employees. Their only complaint is that they haven't always been

Sweet spot

able to see each other outside of work due to busy rotas.

Those of us who have wandered through the side streets of a European city and stumbled

Gauging the mood

across a family-run bistro or trattoria serving traditional, homely food will know the sense

At any time, guests gathered around the tables

of elation it elicits. Here in the UK, finding

at Harry's may be on first dates, graduation

such a gastronomic neighbourhood gem is

celebrations, family dinners, reunions with

rare. Few restaurants straddle that perfect

friends, anniversaries or pre-show drinks.

culinary ground between polished grown-

Tigerlily and the front-of-house team have

up dining and family-run eatery. Harry's,

become experts at reading the room, while

though, hits the sweet spot in a casually

Sam and Zoe craft menus that work whatever the occasion.

glamorous way.

‘While we love cooking delicious dishes, that isn't

‘We've always liked the feeling you get in family restaurants abroad and we've tried to bring that

all we do,’ says Zoe. ‘We're not just here to plonk food on the table; we're here to make sure our

home from our holidays,’ says Sam.

guests celebrate in just the way they'd like.’

She describes the culinary style of Harry's as

Sam adds: ‘They don't even necessarily have

‘modern European bistro’, with an emphasis on

to come and have a full meal. If they want

generous portions and delicious simplicity.

arancini and cocktails followed by a glass of fizz,

‘My heart sinks when a chef says you can

we're happy.’

massively improve a dish by putting a squish of pea on it,’ she laughs. ‘Now, in what way has that improved it?’ Sam believes one of the reasons Harry's has

Clockwise from top left: Sam in

enjoyed so many years of hospitality success

the kitchen, Harry's restaurant,

is that it hasn't slavishly followed trends.

Chateaubriand dish, the Victorian building on Exeter's

‘Lasagne may not be trendy, but if people want

Longbrook Street

lasagne let them have it,’ she says. ‘You just need to make sure it's the best lasagne they'll ever eat. Pappardelle with ragù bianco may sound trendier on the menu, but I think I know what most of our customers would really want. In many ways, you just have to be brave enough to hold the line.’ harrysrestaurants.co.uk

•

arrivals C U R AT I O N

The

Despite the squeeze on the hospitality industry, there's been a flurry of exciting new openings. Selena Young reveals the hottest spots to add to your autumn hit list

Inba Bideford, Devon Fans of Sunshine & Snow have been eagerly awaiting Inba's arrival, and the lifestyle store's new little sister cafe and bar doesn't disappoint. Tucked in the courtyard behind the swoony store, the stylish hideaway

shimmers

with

Mediterranean cool, thanks to founder India Snow. Drop in to sip low-intervention wines, graze on seasonal small plates and admire the considered details of the bougie cafe-bar. inbadevon.co.uk

Image: Stephanie Osmond

T H E

St Enodoc Rock, Cornwall You must have been living under a rock (sorry, not sorry) if you haven't heard that the new custodians of St Enodoc are uber-chef Paul Ainsworth and his wife, Emma. The pair have transformed the hotel into a stylish coastal retreat for exquisite feasting, laidback stays and spectacular estuary views. The pièce de résistance is its Estuary Grill, where locally sourced meat and seafood are cooked over fire on the asado grill alongside dishes inspired by Paul's Seychellois heritage. Elsewhere, the Flour Garden serves Neapolitan-style pizzas, pastries and soft-serve in landscaped gardens, while the attractive terraced bar is the perfect spot for cocktails as the sun dips behind the Camel Estuary. ››

Image: Jonathan Simpson

enodoc-hotel.co.uk

MOR Carbis Bay, Cornwall Named for the Cornish word for ‘sea’, MOR is the hot new catch at Carbis Bay Estate. The restaurant is tucked within the gobsmackingly gorgeous coastal hotel and headed up by two-Michelin-starred chef Tom Sellers. What's most noticeable is the insane attention to detail that runs through everything – from the ceiling installation that ripples with the sea breeze to the quality of the tactile furnishings like the Cornish granite fireplace. The ‘one-breath’ free-dived scallop dish is astonishing. restaurantmor.co.uk

The Great Decoy Near Andover, Hampshire In the pretty village of Hustbourne Tarrant, high-end pub collective The Chickpea Group has just opened its tenth property. The group has preserved the bones of the historic building, while carrying out a sensitive restoration to transform it into a cosy, contemporary space for wining and dining. Visit for its well-stocked bar of local ales, wines and cocktails, a menu of seasonal pub favourites, and eight bespoke bedrooms. thegreatdecoy.co.uk

Kiln Sauna St Ives, Cornwall Porthmeor Beach, with its pearly sands and turquoise waters, is the this year's go-to destination for contrast-therapy disciples. Kiln Sauna's third venture (joining sites in Flushing and Falmouth) is its most impressive yet. The Japanese-inspired Sauna Pavilion comprises two ten-person mobile saunas connected by sheltered walkways, cold plunge pools and showers. It has sustainable creds too: rain and bathwater are repurposed to irrigate the surrounding gardens, which are planted with native grasses, while earth excavated during the build has been shaped into a grassy amphitheatre that allows for meditative gazing over the Atlantic. ››

Image: Lucy Laucht

kilnsauna.com

Radek's Chocolate Totnes, Devon Hot on the heels of the launch of a sister chocolate shop in Bristol, Radek's has opened in Totnes. Don't go expecting to find slabs of milk choc to satisfy a sweet tooth, though. This is the kind of place to sip a cup of 80 per cent ceremonial cacao with lion's mane, or nibble a CBD-infused pecan and date brownie, before perusing a selection of organic single-origin treats sweetened with only natural ingredients. radekschocolate.co.uk

Corsham House Corsham, Wiltshire The Beckford Group have done it again. The hospitality giants behind renowned South West spots that include The Beckford Arms, The Talbot Inn and Lord Poulett Arms have swung open the doors to Corsham House. The wine-led townhouse, situated between Bath and the Cotswolds, is your go-to for sociable brasserie dining, a swish overnight stay (there are 14 bedrooms) and to explore the quality curation in its own Beckford Bottle Shop. corshamhouse.com

Lardon Elkstone, Gloucestershire Elkstone Studios, a creative hub of indie retailers, wellness spaces and fam-friendly dining spots, recently welcomed Lardon into the fold. The restaurant takes its cues from Tuscany, the Basque Country and Provence, serving woodfired, European-inspired small plates. Expect everything from Cantabrian anchovies and parmesan arancini to handmade pasta, dry-aged Galician beef and flame-cooked fish – all served in a stylish setting made for leisurely lunches. ›› lardon-restaurant.com

Image: Lou Dedieu

The Nici Newquay, Cornwall

More new arrivals

The Nici's anywhere-but-the-UK resort vibe is no longer reserved solely for Bournemouth visitors. The luxe hotel brand has opened a sister coastal retreat, this time overlooking surfy Great Western Beach in Newquay. Unlike the Bournemouth hotel's Miami spirit, this Cornwall opening is the place

Parade Hotel Bath has graced

to live la dolce vita, thanks to its

the honeyed city with its chic

Amalfi Coast vibes.

presence. Set in three Georgian townhouses in the city centre,

thenici.com

the boutique hotel features 49 rooms, a bar, lounge and courtyard spa, with a restaurant to follow later this year. In Cornwall, Mazza is grilling seafood and steaks by the sea in St Ives, while in Penryn, Stones Bakery has opened a second bakery just down the road from its original Falmouth site. In Devon, fans of Circa in Totnes will be pleased to hear that it has

Canteen – Cotswolds

to Exeter, where it's merged with

Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire

Stage to become Stage by Circa.

This is your chance to channel your inner it-girl. The original Canteen in Notting Hill featured on Dua Lipa's Google Maps recs and has been rammed with gorgeous people scoffing gorgeous food ever since. Its new South West sister is pretty similar and dishes out attractive compilations like

only closed to facilitate a move

Teffont House is bringing the vibes in Wiltshire. Formerly known as Howard's House, the boutique hotel and restaurant has been reimagined and artfully refurbished (see page 42).

fig, gorgonzola and thyme pizza, lamb-

And finally, Elysium, a

ragu tagliatelle, and chocolate mousse

56-bedroom boutique hotel and

with olive oil and sea salt. canteen310.com

•

spa, will launch in St Mawes this autumn. Former Stein exec chef Stephane Delourme will head up the kitchen.

Eating out

The Food Lifestyle team have been table-hopping around the South West. Here's where to go this season

Sydney's, page 28

E AT I N G

OU T

The Barley Sheaf at Gorran

Image: Guy Harrop

Abi Manning discovers a Cornish dining pub confidently making its culinary mark

here's a frisson of frenetic energy beneath

Visitors can choose from two menus, which

chef Dan Hyams' laidback exterior. Perhaps

are available in both the restaurant and the bar

his mind is whirring about how he'll use the

(the more casual bar menu is a relatively new

herbs he's just picked from the pub garden. Maybe

development). While the latter offers quality takes

he's buzzing about the john dory delivered to his

on pub classics, the à la carte is where Dan really

kitchen door. Or it could be that he's simply feeling

flexes his skills.

the joy of stamping his signature style on his own

Start with a Cornish Bramble for a blackberry-infused

restaurant after a career spent working for others.

autumnal sip, or order a bottle of Vintage Cuvée

While Dan is reluctant to shout about it,

or Bacchus from Knightor in St Austell. Then

that career has given him a blinding CV. The

tuck into homemade focaccia with lashings of

classically trained chef, who's worked at a

confit garlic butter.

three-Michelin-starred restaurant in France,

So beloved is the St Ewe Dippy Scotch Egg

has also cooked in the kitchens of Le Gavroche,

that it never leaves the menu, although it does

Marcus Wareing, The Fat Duck and No.6, to name

change with the seasons – and Dan's whims.

just a few. He'd probably rather you didn't know

On our visit, it was an umami-rich delight

that, though; he's fully focused on the here and now.

thanks to its accompaniments of blue-cheese soldiers and miso mayo.

New beginnings

Megrim sole (whizzed over from Newlyn's

That place is The Barley Sheaf, a dining pub

dayboats) was studded with cucumber, capers and

located above the sleepy fishing village of Gorran

preserved lemon, doused in beurre noisette and

Churchtown. When former owner Tim Kendall – for

accompanied by organically grown village greens

whom Dan worked as head chef – left to focus on

and new potatoes. While Dan's cooking style is

his other Cornish pub venture, The Rising Sun at

stripped back and deceptively simple, wallops of

Altarnun, Dan took the reins. This is his first solo

flavour cut through, thanks to subtle streaks of

venture and, in his own words, the first place that

sauce and preserved vegetables – a reminder that

convinced him to settle, without wondering what

his classical background has imbued him with

his next role might be.

meticulous attention to flavour.

If the chef is pleased with the dining experience he's

A raspberry and lime curd, spiked with ginger

cultivating at The Barley Sheaf, so are the punters.

crumb, meringue and raspberry sorbet, and topped

He's created the sort of village pub everyone would

with mini doughnut spheres and delicate flowers,

love to have as their local, and it's down to a

was as pretty as it was delicious. It revealed that,

winning recipe of his training, his personable and

while Dan's cooking rarely shouts, it speaks with

relaxed approach, and relationships with growers

the quiet assurance of a chef who knows exactly

so nearby that you could wave to them from one

what he's doing.

•

of the dining tables. It's a formula that's earned the pub a listing in the Trencherman's Guide and a place as a finalist in the Best Pub category of the

The Barley Sheaf at Gorran

Trencherman's Awards 2026.

Gorran Churchtown, St Austell, Cornwall, PL26 6HN thebarleysheafgorran.co.uk

E AT I N G

OU T

Sydney's

Rosanna Rothery discovers an oasis of style in the centre of Bath

allowing in the waters at Thermae Bath Spa, inspecting the remains at the historic Roman Baths or admiring

Lunch like a local

the palatial sweep of the Royal Crescent are

If you go during the daytime, with little mouths

de rigueur when you're a tourist in Bath. But where

to feed, the midday bun is a brilliant hunger

should you head when hunger and sightseeing

buster. Fillings change with the season but the

fatigue kick in and you've got a family with diverse

milk bun houses the likes of crisp-fried haddock

appetites to satisfy?

goujons with tartare sauce, or cumberland

While the peckish throng tend to plonk themselves

sausage with wholegrain mustard mayonnaise.

down in cafes and restaurants in and around

Served with a hearty portion of chips, it's the

Milsom Street (the picturesque shopping

ultimate crowdpleaser.

thoroughfare) or Walcot Street (the browsable

Sunday's ample sharing roast, too, is a hit with

artisan quarter), those in the know head a few streets

families. Meats include the likes of Herefordshire

away to Sydney's, in quieter Monmouth Place.

beef sirloin, Pocock's Poultry chicken and Somerset pork belly with all the trimmings.

Family welcome

Come evening, this former pub specialises in British

The cheerful yet chic surroundings of this

and Mediterranean classics and South West seafood.

restaurant can't fail to turn any jaunt to the city

This is a much more grown-up affair, although

into a special occasion.

children are welcome until 9.30pm. When we

If the weather is conducive, the balcony is a super

visited, seafood dishes included silver mullet fillet,

spot for semi-alfresco dining. Decked out with

Cornish monkfish tail and Weymouth Bay lobster.

verdant plants and soothing shades of green, it's

The kitchen team, headed by chef Bradley Moseley,

complemented by the surrounding soft hue of

put the emphasis on sun-soaked flavours, seasonal

Bath's buildings. Downstairs, an uber-glam bar

seafood and nostalgic classics.

and seating area set the scene for smart sipping.

A meal here is a hearty reward after a day's

It's the warm and friendly atmosphere, though,

sightseeing and shopping. Even more so when

that sets this restaurant apart. Sydney's is the

you bookend your main with a starter of grilled

younger sister to The Scallop Shell next door, and

black pudding, ham hock and fried hen egg and

both restaurants are owned by Garry and Lisa

an indulgent pudding such as a tangy lemon

Rosser. Sydney's is named after Lisa's dad, who is

posset with caramelised blueberries. It's the kind

described on the menu as having been ‘a big-hearted

of fare to set you up for another day gawping at

family man who loved nothing more than bringing

grandiose Georgian architecture and making the

people together.’

most of a city that boasts rare double UNESCO World Heritage status.

The team keep that spirit alive with friendly yet

•

on-point service. While we were there, both floors were buzzing with groups of families and friends

Sydney's

enjoying the bonhomie.

23 Monmouth Place, Bath, BA1 2AY sydneysbath.co.uk

E AT I N G

OU T

The Ebrington Arms

Image: Guy Harrop

The north Devon pub is enjoying a new lease of life, thanks to a refurb and an ambitious chef, discovers Selena Young

t takes guts to move beyond traditional fare

Dishes are regularly tweaked and refined to keep

when launching a dining pub in a village. It

both the chef and his regulars entertained. ‛I'd

takes even more gumption to move counties,

change the menu every day if I could,’ he says.

take over a rundown rural inn and reinvent it as a

We eased into a feast with bite-size morsels of

creative dining spot at a time when the hospitality

Cornish Blue cheese with pickled walnut, followed

industry is as changeable as the occupant of

by a down-in-one delight of oyster mushroom

10 Downing Street.

parfait with aged soy, sandwiched between shards

So hats off to chef-patron Tom Mackins and head of

of crisp chicken skin.

hospitality Katie Hoyland, who've done exactly that

A plate of cured north-coast mackerel with slices

by taking over The Ebrington Arms. Breathing life

of apple and a nose-tickling wasabi and kohlrabi

into an old boozer, the pair have created something

sauce refreshed the palate before the next dish.

novel for the area while retaining its charm as

The Dartmoor beef tartare with gherkin, egg yolk,

a village local.

chicken skin and black garlic delivered a scrumptious

Tom and Katie got their hands on the keys last

whack of contrasting tastes and textures.

December, began renovations in January and were welcoming guests just a few weeks later. Some

Palate punctuation

of the credit is due to the residents of Knowle,

However, it was the flame-cooked brill with mussels

who rolled up their sleeves to help bring the

that punctuated the meal with an exclamation

project into existence. What's a village without its

mark. The mussels were, uniquely, treated to a

local, after all?

dose of fragrant lavender, while the smoky brill

Now, the pub strikes the balance between rustic

was perfectly paired with celeriac, grape and

charm and contemporary comfort. The paintwork

crème fraîche.

has been refreshed and the tables no longer have

We also tried rich Exmoor lamb on a bed of broad

their pint-ring marks, while original beams,

beans in lamb-fat XO, served with a quenelle of

exposed brickwork and soft lighting create an

sheep's milk ricotta. Presented in two ways, the

inviting atmosphere. It's laidback enough for

lamb dish comprised rosy, medium-rare slivers

Sunday-roast feasting in a Finisterre fleece, yet

with salt-crusted layers of crisp fat, alongside

also smart enough to justify a crisp shirt for the

low-and-slow braised shoulder.

tasting menu. On our visit, we opted for the latter to do justice to Tom's cooking style, which is best

A refreshing palate cleanser of crème fraîche with

described as flavourmaxxing.

peach puree and roasted white chocolate preceded a showstopping confection of silky 80 per cent dark

Flavourmaxxing moments

chocolate with peanut crumb, cooling sea buckthorn sorbet and spears of crisp sesame brittle.

The chef was born in Wiltshire but takes inspiration from all over. His formative professional years were

Having grafted to help bring the pub back to life,

spent in Cornwall, where he ran his own ventures

the locals are now reaping the rewards in the form

as well as working with notable chefs such as

of some delicious dividends. Lucky things.

Kevin Viner. But he's also lived in the Middle East, which he credits with shaping his playful approach to bold flavours. At The Ebbie, seasonal ingredients

The Ebrington Arms

from nearby farmers and fishermen, along with

Knowle, Braunton, Devon, EX33 2LW

pickings from his kitchen garden, influence his

ebringtonarms-knowle.co.uk

seasonal menus.

•

E AT I N G

OU T

The Queen's Arms Jane Rakison visits a special dining find in a tiny village off the A303

ess than ten minutes from the A303, you can find yourself deep in the Dorset–Somerset countryside, as we discovered when visiting

the ancient and pretty village of Corton Denham.

Launching with some picky bits (always a useful

When you get there, though, you find yourself in the

metric for pub food quality), we ordered courgette

kind of place where neighbours voluntarily defrost

fritti with hot honey and parmesan in finger-size

one another's car windscreens on nippy mornings.

pieces. They were tender inside, coated in a light, crisp batter and complemented by an order of

Nothing warms the cockles like popping into a

dangerously moreish buttermilk-fried chicken.

well-run local pub, and The Queen's Arms is just that. Built from buttery golden stone, it's a temple

The showstopping starter was a carpaccio of English

of good taste that couldn't be more at home in

heritage tomatoes and nectarine. A riot of colour

its peaceful rural setting. Inside and out, it's

and juicy fruit, it set the appetite racing.

countrified and genteel, yet relaxed and unstuffy.

For mains, we covered both river and field, choosing

Cosy decor, an open fire and friendly staff combine

ChalkStream trout on a wedge of braised fennel

to create plenty of warm and fuzzy feels.

and set in a moat of smoked butter and dill sauce,

The pub was bought in 2020 by Corton Denham

and lamb rump, served perfectly pink and beside a

resident Doune Mackenzie-Francis and her family,

courgette flower stuffed with goat's curd.

after years spent dreaming about owning a village

Pub puddings should always come in generous

local. They treated the place to an extensive refurb

portions, and The Queen's Arms more than obliged

before opening in 2021 and have maintained its

with its rich layered chocolate and raspberry mousse

elegant-rustic vibes ever since.

cake, lifted by a scoop of fresh lemon verbena gelato. The equally generous pistachio frangipane

Cooking with care

tart had whipped white chocolate and mascarpone cream spooned over the soft, nutty filling.

In a similar way to the decor, the cooking is modern yet rooted in the classics. Almost everything is made

Sometimes the best reason to leave the A303 isn't

from scratch by head chef Rich Townsend and his

to avoid the traffic; it's to find somewhere truly

team, who are creative in all areas. For example, to

worth finding.

•

reduce food waste, they make beef-dripping mayo with fat from the Sunday roasts, and turn potato peel into crispy skins to scoop up spicy chilli dip.

The Queen's Arms

Despite Rich recently introducing a new casual

Corton Denham, Sherborne, Dorset, DT9 4LR

lunch menu to feed the steady stream of hikers

thequeensarms.com

and walk-ins, we plumped for the à la carte menu to see the team's skill in high definition.

Gather, Dine, Unwind From relaxed lunches overlooking the gardens to memorable evening dining, enjoy fresh, locally sourced ingredients crafted into seasonal dishes. Experience exceptional dining at Budock Vean Hotel, surrounded by the beauty of the Helford River.

Scan the QR code for further details or to book your table

budockvean.co.uk | 01326 250288 near Helford Passage, Mawnan Smith, Falmouth, TR11 5LG

Travel The South West's coolest, quirkiest and most fabulous places to visit in autumn

Trenalt, page 48

T H E

F U L L

W O R K S

The

Collective at

Woolsery Image: Kate Whitaker

Jo Rees goes off the beaten track for a garden-meets-gourmet experience in a horticultural haven

Image: Jon Cardwell

he first thing you notice at The Collective at Woolsery is that nature, when given the freedom to

do her own thing, is more creative than anything we could dream up. Since our last visit a few months ago, the plants at its Birch Farm had staged an uprising against both borders and the human ankle. We followed The Collective's MD Emily Harmon in single file, brushing through a cornucopia of intertwined herbs, unusual berries and plants as she explained that diversity is the point. It seems that plants, like dinner parties, do better when not everyone is the same.

The regenerative farming method mimics a natural forest ecosystem. Dense,

This apparent disorder is part of an

multi-layered planting, alongside active

agroforestry system created by the project's

pruning creates a self-sustaining, highly

head gardener, Josh Sparkes. His mixed

productive food system, without external

planting system sees nut and fruit trees

chemical inputs.

grown alongside berries, herbs, vegetables and other edible plants.

Planting trees close together in this way and using aggressive pruning sends

One of the cool kids of the UK's neo-gardening

chemical signals to nearby trees to put on

scene, Josh also mixes Japanese bokashi

growth and fill the space. So, nothing at

composting into his natural farming set-up

Birch Farm looks neatly obedient, yet its

and, most unusually, is now experimenting

productivity makes neatness seem like a

with syntropic agriculture.

rather limited ambition. ››

The approach, which couldn't yet be called a trend – this is bleeding-edge green-fingery

‘Bleeding-edge green-fingery’

– harnesses the way plants abhor a vacuum.

Left to right: Supper at The Farmers Arms; Josh Sparkes on the farm

Food images: Kate Whitaker

Image: Matt Austin

Clockwise from top left: Birch Farm; supper in the pub garden

‘Surrounded by rampant greenery, we were eager to feast on a menu drawn from the land we'd journeyed through’ Dinner in the garden

Over supper with Emily and photographer

By the time we'd finished our farm foray

through the menu and its paired drinks,

Kate Whitaker, we wended our way only pausing in conversation long

and wandered over to The Farmers Arms,

enough for the front-of-house team to

we were up for road-testing the system in the form of supper. Sitting in the

introduce each course.

pub's garden, surrounded by rampant

It soon became clear that Josh's veggies

greenery, we were eager to feast on a

and the produce reared by head farmer

menu drawn from the land we'd just

Chris Jenn are in safe hands with the pub's

journeyed through.

head chef Toby Neal. From the opening

A tasting menu can sometimes feel like

nibbles of sugar-kelp sourdough with

a restaurant explaining itself at tedious

Marmite butter, homemade charcuterie

length, but here it made complete sense.

and rich bone broth to the closing lemon

The ingredients on the Birch Farm Menu

verbena tart with its fragrant strawberries

hadn't travelled far enough to acquire a

and elderflower, it was considered and

complicated backstory. The meal's coherence

joyful. The menu changes all the time to

came from geography.

reflect what's being harvested, but July's curation featured ingredients like john dory, smoked eel, sorrel, sweet cicely, summer truffle, braised lettuce and broad beans. ››

‘Bewitchingly lovely, with an air of quiet rebellion’ Top to bottom: Hillside Cottage garden;

Images: Kate Whitaker

master bedroom in the cottage

Cottage loafing The Collective comprises more than just a farm and a pub. Sibling enterprises include a gourmet fish-and-chip shop, a nostalgic village store, the Potting Shed events space and a curation of pastoral-luxe

Need to know

accommodation. We spent the night in the largest house, Hillside Cottage, which has a substantial garden. As with everything at The Collective, the cottage was both bewitchingly lovely and woven through with an air of quiet rebellion. In the morning, its garden lured us out of bed to stumble, still in our pyjamas, through

If you do one thing

its wild-seeming foliage – planted according to the same ethos as the farm gardens. It

Book a guided garden tour.

inspired a rethink about "weeds". How

Must pack

much nicer to reclassify them as beautiful and leave them to thrive alongside more

Sturdy shoes for clambering through the jungly terrain.

conventional specimens. Breakfast arrived, ready to be scoffed at a terrace table beneath a buddleia quivering

Insider's tip

with butterflies. The feast – homemade

Grab a loaf of homemade sourdough and treats from the shop to take home.

sourdough toast with whipped butter and jam; eggy crumpets with spinach; and porridge pimped with berry compote, seeds and nuts – was both rustic and extremely well organised. That's The Collective's magical appeal: it offers wildness with comfort, abundance in tasteful quantities, and untamed nature with

•

breakfast delivered.

The Collective at Woolsery Woolsery, north Devon, EX39 5QS woolsery.com

Cool places to stay

Ease into autumn with a stay that's in step with the rituals and rhythms of the season. Abi Manning reveals where to visit

Teffont House Teffont Evias, Wiltshire Although this is the Beckford Group's first foray into running a hotel, the 17-bedroom boutique bolthole has exceeded all expectations. It's found in one of Wiltshire's prettiest villages, in a building dating back to 1623. The spot has long been a magnet for actors, aristocrats and artists and, should creative inspo strike during your stay, you'll find summerhouses stocked with watercolour paints and canvases. Teffont House is also home to an outdoor Bramley treatment cabin with a sauna and cold plunge pool. As a sister to some esteemed restaurants, excellent food is a given. In the Orangery restaurant, Tom Holloway (formerly of The Pig) serves up seasonal fare like octopus raviolo with celeriac. ›› teffonthouse.com

Bittescombe Lodge Wiveliscombe, Somerset For a group stay, Bittescombe Lodge hits a ten on the drop-dead-glam scale. The fully staffed home in the countryside screams luxury at every turn. Browse the collection of rare books in the library, indulge in dishes of estate produce prepared by the chef, play vintage video games, take a dip in the infinity pool, bliss out in the spa or hit the gym. The team curates each experience to fit guest preferences. Whether you fancy alfresco yoga or a spot of fishing, your wish is their command. bittescombe.com

Ennys St Hilary, Cornwall This pastoral idyll, hidden in a valley of woodland, pasture and river, feels like a retreat plucked from the pages of a fairytale. Well Cottage (one of four properties

converted

from

a former granary and dairy) provides a restful base for couples seeking space to switch off. Access to a shared pool and sauna is an added draw for those who relish the ritual of thermal wellness. A wood burner, fresh flowers and a cream tea are prepared for your arrival, while a welcome basket of provisions from artisan producers completes the enchanting picture. ennys.co.uk

The Lookout Newquay, Cornwall New oceanside retreat The Lookout is a cool spot for an autumnal group getaway. Overlooking Newquay's headland, the luxe two-floor accommodation has room for up to eight guests. Access to coves, beaches and the South West Coast Path makes it easy to fill your days. However, you could simply stay put and bask in the opulence of the abode. Tinkle the ivories (there's a white baby grand), gaze over rolling surf, curl up with a book and a blanket on the wraparound terrace, chill in the Atlantic Hotel spa (guests at The Lookout get free access) and cook up a feast in the slick kitchen. ›› atlantichotelnewquay.co.uk

The Alverton Hotel Truro, Cornwall Revealed at the top of a steep, winding driveway, the dramatic Grade II*-listed Alverton Hotel feels a world away from the bustle of the city, despite being just a ten-minute stroll from the centre of Truro. The hotel's riches are revealed at every turn as you discover its history as a convent, sip a cocktail by the fire, dine on dishes flush with Cornish fare and swan-dive into a king-size bed in a courtyard room with stained-glass windows. thealverton.co.uk

Tudor Farmhouse Clearwell, Gloucestershire This 13th-century working farm, reimagined as a 20-room hotel and restaurant, lies where the Wye Valley meets the Forest of Dean. While primarily a boutique base in which to reflect and recharge, for food lovers it's a delicious find. Chef Arron Christopher and his team deliver a celebration of seasonal flavours, using produce sourced from the cottage garden and from within a 20-mile radius. The sophisticated dishes are best sampled in the five-course tasting menu, although the Sunday roasts and relaxed lunches are also excellent. Those seeking to connect with nature should join one of the wild-food foraging trips or wildlife safaris.

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tudorfarmhousehotel.co.uk

Clockwise from top: outdoor kitchen; whirlpool in the marram grass; one of the sea-facing reception rooms

Trenalt T R I E D

A N D

T E S T E D

by Beach Retreats Jo Rees stays at one of Cornwall's most exciting new spots for a group getaway and discovers an oasis of light and space

What's the draw? Air, space and light. This newly launched holiday home hovers, spaceship-like, on the

If this all sounds like a place for solitary

edge of the headland at Mawgan Porth.

escapism, though, it shouldn't. The house

Commanding views of the ocean beyond a

sleeps eight and has clearly been designed

garden that drops away like the horticultural

as a social space.

equivalent of an infinity pool, it's the stuff

When the weather's good, you and your crew

of dreams for anyone who spends their

will find yourselves living outdoors most of

days behind a desk.

the time: cooking in the outdoor kitchen with its Gozney pizza oven and large grill;

Why visit?

homing in on the alfresco dining table at

To be one of the first to experience Trenalt

suppertime, and philosophising in a hot

since its significant reimagining. And to

tub that's surrounded by marram grass and

cosplay as an A-lister for a weekend.

hidden from view.

The house's owners have doubled the length

There's also, apparently, a large firepit area

of the property with the aim of maximising

to hang out in. We didn't even stumble across

the view, so almost every window overlooks

it, having visited during a storm so intense

the coast. Pop a slice of bread into the toaster

that one of the outdoor sofas was picked up

while gazing at crashing waves, curl up in one

by the wind and hurled down the garden.

of the sitting rooms and watch gulls gliding

Not that the weather spoilt the fun: far from

by on thermals, and soak in a copper tub as

it. Hot tubs are just as good in the rain and

hikers trek past the bottom of the garden.

the home cinema, indoor dining room and

Just don't stand in the nud to admire the view

cosy fireplace all brought the vibes. ››

while your bath fills. I made that mistake, so you don't have to.

Beyond the house Step onto the coastal path beyond the garden gate and within five minutes your toes will be in sand. This makes early morning and late afternoon swims and surfs a cinch, and there's even a board rack and outside shower.

Need to know

The walk from the sea back to Trenalt reveals

As a Cornish Food Box hamper is included

just how many mega-houses – a number

in any stay, you can arrive on a Friday

owned by stars of screen and Spotify – share

night with a supper of Cornish cheeses and

the same hillside location. A game of ‘which

biscuits, olives, pickles and chutney already

would you choose?’ is inevitable.

sorted. There's no need to fret about finding somewhere to charge the EV after your

The village also has a couple of restaurants,

journey either; a charger is installed at the

bars and coffee shops. Salt Honey is

end of the drive.

a good shout for a flattie and a slab of homemade cake.

However, do make sure you download the what3words app before you undertake the journey to Trenalt. It's the easiest way to find the property and will save you from uttering

‘Don't stand in the nud to admire the view while your bath fills. I made that mistake, so you don't have to’

a few more than three expletive-laden words with your other half as you reverse up the very hilly and narrow lane in search of the correct house.

Recommend to friends? Not those with young kids: the headland location would mean having to be eyes-on the entire time. But for grown-ups and those with teens old enough to head down to the

•

beach on their own, it's pretty great. beachretreats.co.uk

Clockwise from top: master bedroom; inside-out living in the kitchen; bathtub with a view

Three course lunch £24 Every Monday - Saturday

01326 312671 | www.falmouthhotel.co.uk | Castle Beach TR11 4NZ

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Weekend cooking Lobster at The Seafood Restaurant, page 54

Image: Sam A Harris

We're celebrating over 50 years of The Seafood Restaurant, crafting breakfast brioche rolls and chatting with Scott Paton about autumn's apples

Stein SIGN AT U R E

Rick and Jill's new cookbook reveals recipes from half a century of coastal cooking at The Seafood Restaurant

t's been 51 years since business partners Rick and Jill Stein opened The Seafood Restaurant in Padstow, creating a gastronomic icon that would

help redefine Cornish hospitality and tourism. To

Becoming a household name

mark more than half a century of coastal cooking,

Yet, while The Seafood Restaurant enjoyed a loyal

the family business – now run by the Stein

following of discerning diners for many years, it

sons Jack, Ed and Charlie – has just published a

wasn't until 1995 that its profile soared.

cookbook featuring 50 signature seafood recipes

Rick came to the attention of the BBC, which gave

spanning five decades.

him his own television series: Taste of the Sea. Drawn in by the accessible seafood recipes and glimpses

Tale of the unexpected

of Rick and Jill's family life in Cornwall, viewers

Despite now being one of the best-known dining

flocked to Padstow to experience the cooking and

rooms in the UK, The Seafood Restaurant came about

atmosphere for themselves.

almost by accident. The building was originally home to The Great

A history told in recipes

Western, a nightclub opened by Rick and his friend

Through tales, images and recipes, The Seafood

Jonny Walter. After a couple of years and one too

Restaurant Cookbook tells the story of the restaurant

many brawls on the premises, the club ran into

and the family behind it.

licensing difficulties. A new use was needed for the

We asked Rick and Jill to share a couple of their

building and, rather unusually, the solution was to

favourite recipes from the book with our readers.

open a fish bistro on the top floor.

Turn the page for Rick's classic ray wings with black

In 1977, buoyed by the bistro's unexpected success,

butter and scan the QR code for the restaurant's

Jill and Rick moved the restaurant down to the

signature fish pie recipe. ››

ground floor, where it remains today. By 1981, good cooking, smart interiors designed by Jill, and warm hospitality had earned the restaurant a place in

Clockwise from top left: Jill; Rick; signature

The Good Food Guide.

seafood dishes at the restaurant

Image: Sam A Harris

Rick's ray wings with black butter

We spent 24 hours with the Stein family in Padstow. Read all about it.

Wine pairing

Serves 4 For the court-bouillon Dry white wine 300ml

White wine vinegar 85ml Bay leaves 2

Nutty brown butter and

Black peppercorns 12

delicate ray wings bring

Onion 1, peeled and roughly chopped

lots of flavours to balance

Carrots 2, peeled and roughly chopped Celery sticks 2,

in this dish. Charlie Stein recommends a mediumbodied white, such as a dry Pinot Blanc from Alsace.

roughly chopped Salt 1 tsp For the ray wings Ray wings 4, skinned (about 225g each) Capers in brine 15g, drained and rinsed

For the black butter Butter 175g Red wine vinegar 50ml Flat-leaf parsley 1 tbsp, chopped

Comfort food, Stein style. Get Rick's fabulous fish pie recipe.

1 For the court-bouillon: combine all the ingredients in a large saucepan with 1.2 litres of water. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer for 20 minutes. Leave to cool slightly to allow the flavours to develop. 2 For the ray wings: place the ray wings in a large pan and pour over the court-bouillon. Bring to the boil, then gently simmer for 15 minutes until the fish is just cooked through. 3 Carefully lift the ray wings from the liquid and allow any excess moisture to drain away. Divide between four warmed plates, sprinkle the capers over and keep it warm. 4 For the black butter: melt the butter in a frying pan over a medium heat. Once foaming, continue cooking until it turns a deep golden brown and smells nutty. Stir in the vinegar, followed by the parsley. Simmer for 1 minute until slightly reduced. 5 To serve: spoon the black butter over the ray wings and serve immediately.

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T H E

PA S T RY

P R O

ritual

Weekend-baking Pastry chef and co-owner of Restaurant Roots Stacey Bretschneider shares her recipe for vanilla breakfast brioche

inner at Restaurant Roots in Bournemouth is only part of the pleasure as, once the bill is paid and coats retrieved, guests

are handed a goodie bag of fresh brioche rolls for breakfast the next day. They're crafted by Stacey, the restaurant's co-owner and a classically trained pastry chef. She says: ‘It's a lovely way for our guests to end the experience at the restaurant.’ The scrumptious buns are made with an enriched dough and have a tender crumb. ‘I like them best served slightly warm for breakfast with coffee,’ says Stacey. The chef has shared her recipe so you can create

•

your own weekend baking ritual. restaurantroots.co.uk

Serves 8 Mini paper cases 8 (mini panettone cases work well)

1. For the first-stage dough: dissolve the yeast in 50ml of the room-temperature water. Heat the caster sugar with the remaining 60ml water until dissolved, then cool to 28C.

First-stage dough Fresh yeast 15g Water 110ml Caster sugar 90g Egg yolks 100g Strong white bread flour (ciabatta or baguette flour is best) 265g Unsalted butter 85g, softened Second-stage dough Strong white

2. In a large mixing bowl, combine the cooled syrup, dissolved yeast, egg yolks and flour to form a rough dough. Gradually add the softened butter, mixing until fully incorporated. Cover and leave to rise in a warm place until doubled in size (around an hour). 3. For the second-stage dough: once doubled, add the remaining strong flour and knead or mix for 10-15 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. 4. Add the caster sugar and egg yolks, and mix until

bread flour 50g

incorporated. Follow with the honey, salt, vanilla

Caster sugar 18g

seeds and lemon zest. Mix again. Mix in the

Egg yolks 30g

butter then allow the dough to rise again until

Honey 8g

doubled in size (around an hour).

Salt 6g Vanilla pod ½, seeds of

Lemon ½, zest of Unsalted butter 30g, softened

5. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and portion into 8 balls. Place each in a case and put the cases on a baking tray. Cover and allow to rise until the dough reaches 1cm below the rim of the case.

For the topping

6. For the topping: mix all the dry ingredients

Caster sugar 60g

in a bowl then add the egg white and bring

Ground almonds 20g

to a stiff paste.

Hazelnut flour 20g Plain flour 5g Cornflour 1 tsp Cocoa powder 1 tsp Egg white 25g Sugar crystals to decorate

7. Preheat the oven to 180C fan/200C/gas 6. Divide the topping into 8 small balls, flatten slightly with damp hands and place one on top of each proved brioche. Sprinkle with sugar crystals. 8. Bake the brioche for 12-15 minutes until golden brown and the topping has caramelised.

Exeter Advantage,

At The View, high above Sandy Park, chef Matt Mason combines serious West Country cooking with the excitement of Premiership rugby, discovers Jo Rees

att Mason has a job many chefs would give

So, if you've ever wondered what elite rugby players

their best knife for. For the past 18 months,

eat, Matt is the man to ask.

he's run his own restaurant in association

‘Chicken breast. Lots and lots of chicken breast. All the

with Exeter Chiefs' Sandy Park stadium. He feeds some

Premiership clubs bring their own dietitians, and we work

of the UK's best rugby teams, is part of the buzz of

very closely with them, as the players have to hit their calorie

match days and serves food with flair.

targets. It's very scientific.’

The chef was headhunted by Exeter Chiefs CEO

Happily, though, non-players get to kick calorie

Tony Rowe – the man who turned the club into one

goals into touch and dine from an indulgent menu

of English rugby's success stories and developed the

of seasonal dishes. A steak might arrive with roscoff

Courtyard by Marriott Exeter Sandy Park hotel.

onion, celeriac purée and a rich glaze, made from

Matt's solid credentials made him an obvious choice.

beef fat and juices, brushed over the meat as it

Most recently, he was chef director at Winslade

cooks. Large tomahawk steaks are matured in the

Manor, after 28 years at well-regarded dining pub

restaurant's dry-ageing cabinet before being cooked

the Jack in the Green.

on a Mibrasa charcoal grill and served for sharing. Accompaniments include chimichurri, béarnaise and,

A born-and-bred Devonian, Matt left the county for

of course, chunky chips.

London to train but realised that West Country life suited him best. He landed an early job under chef

More refined dishes include the likes of lemon sole

Shaun Hill at Gidleigh Park and has lived and worked

with brown shrimp, peas, English sparkling wine

in Devon ever since. The result is a network of producer

beurre blanc and sea herbs. That this dining spot takes

relationships stretching back three decades.

its gourmet creds seriously is clear from the wine pairing for each dish.

Matt's move to The View has been satisfying for him for reasons beyond the culinary opportunities. He says:

Beyond the menu, the involvement of the Mason family

‘I love rugby and I’ve always been an advocate for shining

also makes The View feel different. Matt's wife, Joanne,

a light on the West Country. This brought those together.’

runs front of house and their 21-year-old son, Charlie, manages the bar. Their youngest son, Max, – who hopes

At the 140-seat restaurant, named for its position

to join the Michael Caines Academy this year – helps

overlooking the stadium, supporters gather on match

on the breakfast shift. Matt admits: ‘It's a really unusual

days for flame-grilled steaks. Yet Matt also serves the

set of circumstances.’

kind of creative dishes that have defined his career.

Fresh legs

Changing ends

The club has also entered a new era. In June 2026,

Tony brought Matt in to create something beyond

Black Knight Rugby, a new subsidiary of US investment

the usual hotel eatery: a restaurant free to choose its

company Cannae Holdings, bought Exeter Rugby Group,

own suppliers and cook food closer in spirit to that of

which owns Exeter Chiefs and Sandy Park. Tony Rowe

a high-quality dining pub. It was a unique challenge.

has remained in charge.

‘I'm hugely grateful to have a business on the back of Exeter's

The group has form: it bought AFC Bournemouth in

biggest hotel,’ he says. ‘It's very different from anything I’ve

2022 and its investment in that organisation resulted

done before: on a match day, we do breakfast for 300 people.

in a club-record finish in the Premier League. So

We like to joke that pressure makes diamonds.’

expectations are high. ‘There are plans for exciting match-day experiences in the works,’ reveals Matt.

Scrum-ptious food

Rugby fans, professional players, hotel guests and

Matt already had some relationships with the players

food lovers are all welcome at The View. ‘My job is to

through sponsorship at the Jack in the Green. Some he

give them a reason to come,’ says the chef. ‘That means

knew personally; others he'd watched from the stands.

delivering an exceptional dining experience that's nothing

However, feeding them according to strict dietary

like a bland hotel offering. I want people to feel they are

requirements was entirely new. The visiting teams

getting something unique.’

often stay at the hotel before a game, and Matt receives

theviewexeter.co.uk

detailed instructions on their culinary requirements. 61

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S C O T T ' S

H E R O

I N G R E D I E N T S

№17

Apples

Scott Paton, head chef of Michelin-starred Àclèaf restaurant in Plymouth, shares tips on how to use autumn's apples

Where to source The South West is renowned for many things, not least its crisp, juicy apples and resulting exceptional ciders. While this quintessential seasonal ingredient is readily available from supermarkets year-round,

How to serve

the very best fruit is found at local farm shops and

Apples are one of the most versatile autumn

markets in late autumn.

ingredients, lending themselves equally well to

Scott Paton loves this season's fruit but waits for

sweet and savoury dishes.

the perfect moment before harvesting. He says: ‘You

‘For a savoury application, create a chutney or an

always get what's called a first drop, which are the apples

apple sauce to serve with your Sunday lunch roast

the tree sacrifices to focus its energy on making the next apples juicy and healthy. So for the pick of the crop, look

pork,’ says Scott.

for apples in late September and October.

For dessert, his preference is clear. ‘I always think

‘We have an orchard at Boringdon Hall where we grow Cox

an apple pie is better than a crumble.’

and Russet varieties. If you don't have access to orchard

At Àclèaf, however, the team take a more refined

apples, I'd avoid supermarket apples and try to find

approach, serving apple tarte tatin paired with a

English varieties at good local farm shops and markets.’

wedge of blue cheese. ‘It adds the sweet and textural components that balance the cheese. Tarte tatin also

How to prep

works beautifully served with game or duck, doused

Scott says: ‘A lot of recipes that use apples require the

in a rich sauce, where it provides the same balance

natural pectin the fruit is known for. Much of that pectin

and sweetness.’

comes from the core and seeds, so if you're making a

For purists, Scott recommends serving a whole tarte

puree, sauce or jam, get as close to the core as possible

tatin warm as a sharing dessert, accompanied by

when trimming the apple.’

custard and generous scoops of ice cream.

For pastries, however, it's a different story. ‘You don't want pectin in tarts and cakes. For a dessert like a

Wine pairing

tarte tatin, we look for a drier apple, like a Russet, that

When it comes to pairing wine with apple desserts,

won't release too much juice and make the pastry soggy

the chef looks to an off-dry English white wine to

and dilute the caramel.’

balance the richness of baked apples and pastry. ‘Sandridge Barton's demi-sec Bacchus, Stop Ferment, is

‘A drier apple, like a Russet, won't release too much juice and make the pastry soggy’

a wonderful match for apple tarte tatin. Tropical, zesty fruit notes bring brightness and complexity, while the gently sweet finish complements the caramelised apples and buttery pastry, and everything is balanced by its refreshing acidity.’

•

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Drinks Hunting out seriously good wine lists and mastering the art of the slow coffee ritual

V60 ritual, page 70

J A N E

R A K I S O N ' S

D R I N K S

D I A RY

wine lists Jane's little black book of

Some people tick off visits to Michelin-starred restaurants. Our drinks expert keeps a note of stores and dining spots with exceptional wine lists

Landrace in Bath

he pleasure of discovering a dining destination that fills your soul with joy is something every Food Lifestyle reader will appreciate.

However, finding a brilliant wine destination is a rarer pleasure.

Upstairs at Landrace

Sniffing out such spots and keeping note of them is

This Bath restaurant has a happy wine list for the

a self-confessed obsession of mine: their very rarity

curious. The leather-bound wine menu begins with

makes finding a good one all the more exciting.

the current obsessions of team members, before

Even so, deciding what makes a wine list excellent

leading into a curation of benchmark appellations

is subjective. Do you prefer a pét-nat to a Grand

and rule-breaking winemakers. It makes for a

Cru Champagne, or crave a juicy Beaujolais rather

fascinating read and some delicious wines.

than a hulking Napa Cabernet Sauvignon?

landracebakery.com

In restaurant and bar settings, there's plenty to consider before getting to the minutiae of styles,

Cave

grapes and regions. These basics include decent stemware – ideally a glass shape that narrows

This Bristol bottle shop with seating champions

towards the rim to funnel aromas to the nostrils.

grower wines over brands. It pairs benchmark

The glass should be clean, unchipped and have no

regions with up-and-coming names, and also

hint of washing-up liquid residue.

features plenty of small-batch finds. The buying feels very personal, with provenance, character and

The serving temperature also matters: too warm

value visible in the bottles on its shelves.

or too cold, and that highly anticipated yet fleeting

cavebristol.co.uk

first-sip moment is gone. Finally, the wine list should include correct information on the style, grape variety,

Yapp Bros

vintage and producer.

One of Britain's great indie wine merchants can now be found in Sparkford, having relocated from

Essentials aside, I long for passion and pride to leap

Wiltshire. Yapp built its reputation championing

from the list. And, if it's not too greedy of me, I like

the Loire and Rhône long before the regions became

to see a good mix of classic and emerging regions

fashionable – although its list is packed with

and producers.

treasures from around the world.

Ultimately, the world of wine is a broad church, and

yapp.co.uk

I'm happy to worship at the altar of all sorts of wine styles as I appreciate they serve different crowds

Juliet

and purposes. Just as long as it's done as well as at the places on the following pages.

This Stroud spot is a destination restaurant with a list made for wine lovers. Its carefully curated selection packs in an impressive breadth of styles and regions, proving you don't need hundreds of bottles to create genuine excitement. ›› julietstroud.com

Gardner & Beedle

Prawn on the Lawn

Tisbury's indie merchant makes wine feel welcoming

This Padstow restaurant features a joyful wine list

rather than worthy. From Grand Cru Champagne

that balances classics with funkier discoveries and

to fashionable pét-nats and exciting southern

brilliant local bottles. Expect the odd wildcard and

hemisphere producers, there's something for

lighter reds that flatter the signature seafood dishes.

everyone at this Wiltshire store.

prawnonthelawn.com

gardnerandbeedle.com

Vineyards Pullo

Sherborne's multi-award-winning independent merchant has built a loyal following by championing

The confident and contemporary list

honest winemakers and bottles with real stories

at Exeter's wine, cider and cheese

and excellent flavours. Whether you're looking for

shop-cum-bar (pictured below) mixes

a midweek sip or something unforgettable for a

cult natural wines with those from

celebration, you'll find it here.

more classical producers. Adventurous without ever being intimidating, Pullo

vineyardsofsherborne.co.uk

always has something new and delicious to discover. The team often host events with notable chefs, featuring food that ventures beyond their regular bar menu, alongside their own curation of matching wines or ciders. pullo.shop

Glebe House This country house hotel in Colyton, Devon, features a wine list that reflects the thoughtful philosophy of its kitchen. Visit to explore low-intervention wines from the South West, as well as those from artisan European producers. France and Italy dominate, but there are plenty of rewarding discoveries from elsewhere too. The list's standout feature is its Wine Specials section. Here, limited-quantity bottles that are too scarce for the main list reveal genuine treasures. There's a new Guest Sommelier Series too, which promises yet more reasons to make a return visit.

•

glebehousedevon.co.uk

art The

of the slow coffee ritual

Crafting a V60 pourover isn't about convenience. Slow down, engage your senses and discover the joy of the ritual, says Wiki Jazwinska

ure, there are quicker ways to make coffee. You

For Stu, the process begins with the beans:

can press a button, stir granules into a mug

‘Before I start, I like to smell the beans, especially if they're

or grab a flat white to-go. But the appeal of a

new. Grinding the beans at home fills the room with a

V60 is less about convenience than the opportunity

fresh, toasty aroma. Then, as the hot water hits the coffee,

to carve out five unhurried minutes in a busy day.

another set of aromas comes through.

Long before the V60 became a fixture in speciality

‘The first sip brings one set of flavour notes, but as

coffee shops, its manufacturer, Hario, was making

the coffee cools you notice different ones. It changes

heatproof glass in Japan. Inspired by the clean

throughout the whole process, keeping you focused

extraction achieved through conical laboratory

on your senses.’

funnels, the company spent decades refining the paper-filter dripper before launching the now-iconic V60 in 2004. Named after its distinctive 60-degree

Objects of ritual

V-shaped cone, the brewing method has become one

The special items used to make the coffee are also an

of the most popular types of pourover kit.

important part of the ritual. Over time, a favourite mug, kettle or scales become as much a part of the

The ritual of pouring a V60 invites you to pay

experience as the coffee.

attention to the aroma and the steady rhythm of the pour while savouring the anticipation of the first sip.

‘I like to drink my V60 coffee from a cup I made myself,’ says Stu. ‘It's not perfectly round, so I naturally put my

This hand-brew method is much more similar to

hands in the same place every time.

a traditional filter machine than espresso, which creates shots through high pressure. In the V60,

‘If you've got equipment that looks beautiful, you want

grounds sit in a paper cone over which very hot water

to use it. And if you've got great coffee equipment, you

(never boiling) is poured, slowly drawing out a clean

want to make great coffee.’

and juicy brew. It requires patience and precision.

A place to pause

Awaken the senses

As a barista, Stu witnesses coffee rituals taking

For Stu Walker (pictured), owner and barista at

place around him every day: regulars collecting

The Feel Good Larder in Barnstaple, north Devon,

their morning flat white on their way to work, and

being patient is exactly the appeal of a hand pour.

customers lingering over a V60 while taking a break.

‘Everyone has a rushed life, so this gives you five minutes

‘Everyone benefits from slowing down a little, whether

to slow down,’ he explains.

with friends or by themselves. If you walk into somewhere with a nice atmosphere, where you feel comfortable

As in baking, brewing a V60 involves following a

enough to sit by yourself, that's really special.’

recipe in a methodical way, although each person's ritual is unique.

While there'll always be quicker ways to make a coffee, the best cup may just be the one that delivers

‘Everyone's got their own way of doing it, and that's the

a moment of calm focus. ››

joy,’ says Stu. ‘You start with a recipe, then play around with it until you find what works for you.’

Turn the page for our V60 recipe

Never have a bad coffee again

Indy Coffee G app out nowuide ! The leading guides to the UK's best coffee shops. Food Lifestyle readers get a 25% discount with code: FL26 Shop the full range and merch at

indycoffee.guide  indycoffeeguide

How to 1 Place a filter paper into the cone of the V60 and rinse with boiling water to remove any papery taste. Discard the water. 2 Grind 14g of quality coffee beans to a medium-coarse consistency and spoon into the wet filter paper in the V60. Gently tap on the counter to level the grounds.

make a V60 pourover

3 Place the V60 on your cup or a jug and put it on the scales. Tare to take the weight reading to zero. Leave everything on the scales.

Serves 1

4 Heat a kettle of water to around 95C. To begin, slowly pour about twice the amount of water to the volume of coffee grounds. This should take 30-40 seconds. During this process the coffee grounds will expand and bloom.

Coffee 14g, whole beans Water 252ml

Ratio 1:18

5 Pouring in a steady spiral towards the outer edge, add the rest of the water until the scales reach 252ml. Pour over dark or bubbly patches. 6 Allow the water to drain through the grounds completely. This should take around four minutes. 7 Remove the V60 from the top of the mug or jug and the coffee is ready to drink.

•

Competitions To enter any of the competitions, visit food‑mag.co.uk/win

Image: Matthew Hawkey

See website for T&Cs. Closing date is October 31, 2026

Win a

Signature Spa Break I

n need of a recharge? A Signature Spa Break by the sea could be just the thing. At grown-ups-only Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa in

Ocean views are the backdrop for breakfast each

Newquay, a Signature Spa Break comes with all the

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Images: Matthew Hawkey

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ot yet tried Cornwall's coolest feasting and golf concept? You're in the culinary bunker!

Halwyn, which launched a year ago, isn't a golf club in any conventional sense. It's more of a mash-up of golfing fun (high-tech driving range and mini golf) with contemporary

with smoked cheddar, salsa verde and aioli and mains like barbecued sheftalia sausage on flatbread with tzatziki, lemon cabbage, pickled shallot and parsley.

aesthetics and high-quality cooking

Ready to play a round? Give our

in a rural spot near Newquay.

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Unlike the ruthless competition that

PRIZE Two-course lunch for four,

takes place on its mini-golf course,

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QUESTION In which county is Halwyn? halwyn.co.uk

Win a

coastal mini-break

he best coastal breaks often begin

Meanwhile, the Royal Castle in Dartmouth

with the same ingredients: a

(pictured) provides the opportunity to

characterful pub, a comfy room

stay in a historic landmark building in

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the heart of the waterside town. A two-night South West escape promises the chance to slow down and recharge amid some of the UK's most stunning coastal scenery, and to have memorable

St Austell Brewery has pubs dotted across the South West that deliver just these kinds of breaks. The Wellington in Boscastle combines centuries of history with sweeping views across the

adventures along the way. PRIZE A two-night stay, one dinner and two breakfasts for two people at one of the pubs mentioned (you get to choose).

harbour and easy access to Cornwall's

QUESTION What's the name of the

dramatic north coast.

St Austell Brewery pub in Newquay?

The

Great

Western

Newquay

staustellbrewery.co.uk

occupies a clifftop perch that overlooks golden sands, placing beach days and

Image: Elliott White

surf culture firmly on the doorstep.

Win a G&T curation with the

Trencherman's Guide

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chance of winning. PRIZE Two bottles of Trevethan Gin, a case of Navas tonics and a copy of the newly released 34th edition of the Trencherman's Guide. QUESTION What's the name of the tall glass in which gin and tonics are traditionally served?

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This autumn, one lucky reader will win a delivery of fabulous Trevethan Gin

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Images: Guy Harrop

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companion are guaranteed prime seats by

The winning pair will also get the chance to discover

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more about the work of this popular charity, which

Taste of the West award-winning restaurant at

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Sidmouth Donkey Sanctuary.

PRIZE Lunch and drinks at a window table for two

Everything on the menu – including stonebaked

at The Kitchen in Sidmouth Donkey Sanctuary.

pizzas, signature wraps and burgers – is made on-site from local, seasonal produce. The menu

QUESTION What's the name of the barn where the

also caters for veggie, vegan and gluten-free diets.

miniature donkeys live?

Lighter bites, such as halloumi with hot honey,

thedonkeysanctuary.org.uk

Image: Stuart Key

always go down well with the drove of animal lovers

Image: James Archibald

Food Lifestyle directory The Grey Lurcher Browse

luxury

homewares

and contemporary gifts at this Falmouth store. The shop stocks Annie Sloan chalk paint, home fragrances

from

Crave Restaurant This independent restaurant serves up a proper foodie experience on Exeter Quay. Recently voted Muddy Stilettos Devon's Best Restaurant for the second year in a row, it

Illumens,

boasts good food made from local

jewellery, greetings cards, French

ingredients and a welcoming

soap and other delightful items.

atmosphere. Visit for a leisurely brunch on the terrace, small-plate

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feasts and craft cocktails. craverestaurant.co.uk

Marshford Organic Foods Visit Marshford's farm shop in Northam, north Devon, for a fabulous array of fresh and seasonal organic veggies, salads and herbs – many homegrown. Local fish, meat, eggs, bread, dairy products (including a selection of interesting cheeses) and a wide variety of environmentally friendly and organic groceries are also available at the store, while veg boxes and produce can be delivered. Visit the shop or order online for collection and local deliveries. marshford.co.uk

Join the happy band of Food Lifestyle subscribers! The magazine reveals the South West's best hospitality and lifestyle finds and champions independent and authentic businesses. Not a fan of global chains? Want to stay in the know about where's good to go? Relish the analogue joys of reading real magazines? You'll enjoy getting Food Lifestyle delivered to your door. The four issues, plus a weekly email newsletter revealing hot finds, cost just £25 per year. Gift options also available. food-mag.co.uk/subscribe

Dinnington Docks A proudly independent Somerset pub where seriously good food, proper drinks and warm, relaxed hospitality come together. Everything is cooked from scratch using local, seasonal ingredients, resulting in dishes that are full of flavour – and which have earned the pub an AA rosette. Behind the bar, carefully chosen real ales, local ciders and an extensive, unique wine list await. dinningtondocks.com

The Duke Hotel Voted Wiltshire's Best Boutique Hotel 2025 and Best Restaurant 2026 by Muddy Stilettos, The Duke excels in award-winning accommodation, exceptional seasonal dining and genuine hospitality. Its atmospheric bar specialises in epic cocktails and is just the place to start a delicious countryside escape. Situated in the charming village of Hilmarton, this is a spot to find comfort, flavour and character. On site, too, is The Duchess Lounge, which combines a cosy cafe, farm shop and an elegant event space for afternoon tea or private gatherings. dukehotelhilmarton.co.uk

The Rose and Crown Trent A smart and welcoming 16th-century country pub in a picturesque spot on the Dorset-Somerset border. The inn serves up exceptional seasonal food, thoughtfully selected drinks, stylish rooms, warm hospitality, roaring fires, beautiful gardens and memorable experiences all round. theroseandcrowntrent.co.uk

The Chagford Inn An award-winning and family‑run independent pub in the heart of Dartmoor. Visit for an excellent casual dining experience crafted using the best of Devon's food and drink larder, showcased with creativity Image: Guy Harrop

and authenticity. Make a weekend of it by staying in one of the recently refurbished guest rooms. thechagfordinn.co.uk

Stockists

Here are just a few of the exceptional places you can pick up a copy of Food Lifestyle. Find the full list at food‑mag.co.uk Bath

Chandos Deli Colonna & Small's Cortado Café

Darts Farm

Chandos Deli

Gidleigh Park

Dunster Living

Glebe House

FARA

Harbour Beach Club

Farrington's

Lympstone Manor

Flourish Food Hall

No. 15 Bath, by GuestHouse

Marshford Organic Foods

Picnic Coffee

Millbrook Inn

Robun

Rangemoors

The Beckford Bottle Shop

River Cottage

Horrell & Horrell

The Fine Cheese Co.

The Bull Inn

Iford Manor Estate

The Cheese Larder

Little Walcot

Lilac Bakery

Lord Poulett Arms

The Lost Kitchen

MAKE

The Queensberry Hotel The Royal Crescent

Cornwall

Beach House Falmouth

Homewood

The Riverford Field Kitchen The Salutation Inn Waitrose, Okehampton

Bedruthan Hotel & Spa Electric Bakery Fee's Deli

Dorset

The Barrington Boar

The Cotley Inn

Great Cornish Food Store

Langham Wine Estate

Halwyn

Majestic, Dorchester

Indidog

RISE Market & Bakery

Jo & Co

Soulshine

Kota

Summer Lodge

Padstow Farm Shop

Swim

Porthminster Beach Cafe

The Club House

Scarlet Hotel

The Seaside Boarding House

St Kew Farmshop

The Three Horseshoes

St Michaels Resort

The Queen's Arms

St Moritz

Tom's Lyme Regis

Strong Adolfos

Town Mill Bakery

The Alverton

Waitrose, Bridport

The Greenbank

The King's Arms, Dorchester

The Idle Rocks

Teals

The Cellarhand

Acorn Inn

Crab House Cafe

The Headland

Number One Bruton

The Bath Priory

Fistral Beach Hotel and Spa

The Grey Lurcher

Holm

The Holcombe The Manor House Inn, Ditcheat The Talbot Inn The Three Horseshoes, Batcombe Vintage & Vine White Row Farm Shop

Wiltshire Little Rituals

Lucknam Park Majestic, Devizes Majestic, Marlborough Messums West

Gloucestershire Cheeseworks

Pythouse Kitchen Garden Sign of the Angel The Bath Arms at Longleat The Beckford Arms The Bell & Crown

The Old Coastguard

Daylesford

The Square at Porthleven

Knead Bakery

Tinkture

Ritual Coffee Roasters

Trevisker's Kitchen + Dining

Ronnie's of Thornbury

Trudgian Farm Shop

Scandinavian Coffee Pod

The Great Bustard

The Slaughters Country Inn

The Grosvenor Arms

Thyme

The Old Bell Hotel

Vinotopia

The Pembroke Arms

Devon

Ashburton Cookery School

The Bradley Hare

Ashburton Delicatessen Ben's Farm Shop Boringdon Hall Hotel Bovey Castle

The Dog & Gun The Fleur de Lys

The Queen's Head

Somerset

Timbrell's Yard

At the Chapel

Brown & Forrest

Escape the Ordinary THIS CHRISTMAS

Penventon Park Hotel A warm welcome awaits you in Cornwall this Christmas… www.penventon.co.uk | 01209 203000 | enquiries@penventon.com

Feast day and night on the f inest Cornish cuisine at the Water’s Edge restaurant in Falmouth

01326 312440 | greenbank-hotel.co.uk | Harbourside TR11 2SR