FAMILY | FOOD | SPORT | LIVING | TRAVEL
August 2017
The really useful magazine August 2017
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PEOPLE
FIVE MINUTES WITH...
4 Snapped! Sai Kung’s social life
16 Michael Pittman Sai Kung raised paleontologist
THE PLANNER
LOCAL
6 Happening in August What’s on
18 Giving berth Plans to use typhoon shelters as mooring site amid space shortages
FAMILY 10 Back to school Essentials for the new academic year NEWS 12 What’s going on? In your backyard GIVEAWAYS 14 Free stuff Fab things to win
ON PATROL 19 Police blotter Sai Kung Police updates VILLAGE FOCUS 20 Kei Ling Ha The village that became two COVER STORY 22 The Readers’ Choice Awards The best of Sai Kung 2017
EDUCATION 36 PIPS Kate Davies takes a tour EATING 40 Around the world in 8 Hong Kong restaurants Let your tastebuds travel the globe. Plus Nibbles SPORTS 46 Sai Kung Bulldogs FC Interview with the founder and head coach of the club TRAVEL 48 Siem Reap Shreena Patel makes her visit to Cambodia ZIM CITY 54 Paul Zimmerman on... Medical waste in our sea
HOROSCOPE 56 Signs from the stars Adam White predicts your future PETS 58 Ask Dr. Pauline Pet eccentricities and abnormalities explained. Plus Walkies. GARDENING 61 In the garden What to plant in August VINES IN SAI KUNG 64 Born to be wild Steven Vines weighs in
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contributors
Kat J. Weiss. .
Linda Jackson…
…is a Sa i K un g re si in ed as vo B lu nt ee rs at Sa i K d ent w ho re gu la rly . r ve co l ia ec sp ’s th on Foun d at io n. Sh e ha un g St ra y Frie nd s ...illu strated this m k is colla ge- a nd patternor si nce 1996 ha vi ng s be en in Hon g K on g Sa i K ung, her w a nd playfu l co mpositions, also a qu alif ied ba le ft th e U K. Sh e is like, with su rrea l s hu mor. When she isn’t sic a nd often involve be foun d crocheti ng, doi ng w ho lo ve s spen di ng ti mZ u m ba in st ru ct or a rt-ing, K at ca n ng to podca sts, or watching a nd enjoys walki ng th e with he r fa m ily crosswords, listeni u menta rie s. See more of R ea d he r fa vourite wale countrys id e. k with th e S KSS F d og s on pa ge 58. obscure crime doceiss.com tjw ka at k or her w
Jessie Yeubornnga…nd raised in
m st u d ent, …is a jou rn a lis d cu rrently st u dyi n g in N ew Hon g K on g a n k ed wit h T im e Out Hon g Y ork. Sh e’ s worpo rt M a g a zin e, co ve ri n g K on g a n d Pa ss n ew s, a n d tra ve l. Out si d e of lifesty le, L G BTjoy s hi ki n g, watchi n g re ru n s w rit in g, sh e en fi n din g n ew co ffee spot s ei of Frie n d s, a n d . R ea d a bout h er vi sit to K a rou n d th e cityg e 22. Lin g H a on pa
Want to write for Sai Kung Magazine? Contact editorial@hongkongliving.com
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people Snaps from Sai Kung
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say cheese Snaps from Sai Kung
WWF Summer Camp
Share your event photos with us at photo@hongkongliving.com. Get snapping!
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planner
AUG 5
Sai Kung Live
The monthly Sai Kung event will be returning at the S2 Waterfront Bar and Restaurant. Performing artists including Kira Albarus & George Derisley of The Pineapple Jam, Arizton Pamplona & Sean Gu, Peter Lo, and Levelling Out. 8-11pm. S2 Waterfront, G/F, Waterfront park, 1 Wai Man Road, Sai Kung. For more information visit facebook.com/220195051804462.
AUG 1-3 Home Sweet Home
AUG 1-6 Slava’s Snowshow
UNTIL SEPT 2 Hong Kong Pulse Light Show
Participants are invited to build their dream homes and communities using a cardboard “gadget supermarket”. Organised by the Leisure and Cultural Services Department, the programme offers participants the opportunity to unleash their creativity as part of their ongoing International Arts Carnival. Attendees are free to take their creations home after the event. $240. 11am-5.30pm, Sha Tin Town Hall Exhibition Gallery, 1 Yuen Wo Road, Sha Tin.
Part of the entertaining productions being performed as part of this year’s International Arts Carnival, this highly acclaimed musical tragicomedy has won top accolades across the globe including the Laurence Olivier Award in England and the Triumph Award in Russia. Music Nation will be hosting the return of the show to Hong Kong. Staged by renowned Russian pantomime artist Slava Polunin, the masterpiece comes highly recommended for children above eight years of age and is praised by teens and adults alike. Tickets available at hkticketing. com.hk and HK Ticketing Box Offices. Prices range from $480-$880. Lyric Theatre, Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts, 1 Gloucester Rd, Wan Chai. For more information visit the Slava’s SnowShow facebook page. To find out more about events in this year’s International Arts Carnival go to hkiac.gov.hk; other featured shows include ‘The Polar Bears Go Up’, ‘Beatles for Babies’, and ‘Shadow Space’.
A breathtaking multimedia light show that features 3D projection mapping, high-tech sound effects, and spectacular music. Re-experience Hong Kong through a diverse array of cheerful cartoon characters. 8.20pm, 8.40pm, 9pm, 9.20pm, 9.40pm, Hong Kong Cultural Centre Open Piazza, Tsim Sha Tsui.
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AUG 5-6 Mandarin Oriental Wedding Fair The Mandarin Oriental is collaborating with a
Woodland Pre-School Programmes
AUG 7-11
Sai Kung Woodland Pre-School is hosting two separate summer camps this month. Enroll your child in the Summer Fun programme, a comprehensive and diverse programme featuring musical, culinary, arts, drama and sports activities. Alternatively, boost kids’ fitness in the Summer Sports & Games programme. Price start at $2000 per week for pre-school aged children. Shop D, G/F, Marina Cove Shopping Centre, Sai Kung. Email saikung@woodlandschools.com, visit woodlandschools.com, or call 28130290.
happening in August experience controlling the boat as well as join in with games and fun races. Suitable for children aged 4-10. Children must be accompanied by one adult. 10am-1pm and 2-5pm. $365 for members; $525 for non-members, includes one child and one adult. For more information and bookings, call 2719 0926 or email sailadmin@hhyc.org.hk
AUG 14 Back to school Autumn term begins at ESF schools.
AUG 17-19 Hong Kong International Tea Fair
series of luxury brands to help couples prepare for their special day. A dedicated team of wedding planners will be on hand to provide couples with advice as they travel through the fair sampling culinary creations and a variety of bridal and evening wear. Executive Pastry Chef, Yves Matthey, will talk wedding cakes while renowned Savile Row tailor Gieves and Hawkes will share its 245 years of experience, including with the British Royal Family. Registration for the fair is highly recommended. Call 2825 4821 / 2825 4871, or email mohkg-catering@mohg.com
adults aged 3 and above. Sha Tin Town Hall Auditorium. For further information visit hkiac. gov.hk/2017/en/littleprince.html.
Paws For Latin Brunch
AUG 8 LANY Live in Hong Kong 2017 Rising Alternative Rock group LANY will be performing live in Music Zone @ E-Max for one night only. Tickets and details at ticketflap.com
AUG 11 The Goonies (1985) at Sai Kung Open Air Cinema Club The adventure comedy-film produced by Steven Spielberg will be available for viewing on a gigantic outdoor screen under the stars! 7:30pm10:00pm. Standard ticket, HK $120. Hive member, HK $100. Includes soft drinks/beer/ Prosecco, popcorn and snack. RSVP by emailing cinema@thehive.com.hk or call 2780-5844.
Discover a diverse array of teas in the region’s best tea trading hub. Hosting over 200 exhibitors from across the world, this annual fair gives buyers an insight into the fascinating history and culture of tea. This year, visitors can witness the final of the International KamCha (Hong Kong Style Milk Tea) Competition. Different activities will be held each day, including several Tea Tasting Sessions and International Tea Art Performances. 10am5pm. Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. For more information go to hktdc.com
AUG 13 International Lefthanders Day AUG 13 Hebe Haven Yacht Club Family Fun Day Young sailors will have the opportunity to go dinghy sailing at Hebe Haven Yacht Club’s Family Fun Day. Participants will be able to
AUG 19
Sai Kung Stray Friends Foundation is holding a fundraising event to support more than 100 dogs in need. The fundraising-fiesta will be held at newly launched Latin restaurant PICADA, where guests will find live performances, dog-themed cocktails, a ‘Poodle Pinata’, and a meet and greet with a few furry friends. Perfect for adults and children alike the event $500 per person. The ticket price includes an appetiser buffet, your choice of mains and dessert and free flowing cava, beer, and cocktails. Brunch tickets can be purchased on Eventbrite at despugito. eventbrite.hk . ‘Early Paws’ who get one of the first 50 tickets will get an exclusive $50 discount. All proceeds will be donated to Sai Kung Stray Friends for the upkeep of their many dogs.
AUG 11-13 The Little Prince by City Contemporary Dance Company Come witness the story of Little Prince from asteroid B-612 as you have never seen it before. The City Contemporary Dance Company has recreated the beloved childhood classic by infusing it with contemporary dance, live sand drawing, fresh music, and animation. The show is open to families with children or young
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planner AUG 19 World Humanitarian Day Recognizing the aid workers who risk their lives to provide humanitarian relief.
AUG 25-26 ‘Les Étoiles du Ballet’ by the Royal Ballet of Cambodia The Royal Ballet of Cambodia is performing for
the first time in Hong Kong. The royal ballet is an official UNESCO Intangible Heritage that has more than 1000 years of history. Known for its symbolism and delicacy, royal ballet has a historic association with the legends of the Khmer people and is an emblem of Khmer culture. The Hong Kong debut will feature a professional troupe of 14 dancers, 5 musicians, and 3 singers who have been
The 3rd HK International SUP Championship Join local and international stand up paddle boarders in a race around beautiful Sai Kung. Deadline for registration is August 22. 8am-4pm, Victoria Recreation Club, Tai Mong Tsai Road, Sai Kung. Visit hksupba.com for more information.
AUG 26
training in the artform since childhood. Her Royal Highness Princess Norodom Buppha Devi and His Royal Highness Prince Sisowath Tesso will be attending both performances. $200300. 8pm. Studio Theatre, Hong Kong Cultural Centre, 10 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui. Tickets available at urbtix.hk.
AUG 25-27 International Design Furniture Fair Hong Kong: Redefining Luxury - A Design Event IDFF is returning this year at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. IDFF 2017 is an upscale boutique exhibition that aims to inspire designers by celebrating the world’s best brands and design talent. Tickets available at hkticketing.com. Visit idffhk.com for more details.
Photo by Hong Kong Wetland Park of Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department
AUG 28 Seven Sisters Festival
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Sometimes informally referred to as ‘Chinese Valentine’s Day’, the Seven Sisters Festivals originates in a Chinese legend about the stars Altair and Vega. It is said that they are really two lovers, a mortal and a goddess, who were tragically separated on either side of the Milky Way. It is said that on this day each year the world’s magpies form a bridge to temporarily unite the star-crossed lovers. Young romantics in Hong Kong are known to make offerings to the lovesick couple at Lover’s Rock (Bowen Road, Wan Chai).
UNTIL NOV 13 Hong Kong Wetland Park Where Wonders Begin: Our Nature The ‘Where Wonders Begin: Our Nature’ programme is a series of ‘edutainment’ activities designed to teach children and young people about our biological resources and how they are used in daily life. Activities include several public guided tours, a Badge and Origami Workshop, and a ‘Traditional Wisdom Grocery Store’ Exhibition. For more details go to wetlandpark.gov.hk.
happening in August
BOOK NOW SEPT 19 OneRepublic
only. Tickets can be bought at hkticketing.com. Contact 2629 6218 for further enquiry.
Famous for smash singles like ‘Apologize’, ‘Good Life’, and the world-wide #1, ‘Counting Stars’, Grammy-nominated rock group One Republic are performing in HK for one day only at the Asia World Expo Arena. Tickets can be bought on hkticketing.com. For Programme Enquiry contact 2629 6218
SEPT 2 Hong Kong Blue Tie Ball Help support mental health, fight substance abuse, and promote wellness programmes for young people by attending this charity ball
at the Hong Kong Football Club. The evening is being hosted by the Hong Kong rugby community. Expect live music, a delicious dinner, and great community-orientated company. All proceeds go to batyr and KELY Support Group. Tickets available at ticketflap. com. $1,000 for a single ticket.
SEPT 21 Ariana Grande Dangerous Woman Tour Pop sensation Ariana Grande is holding her first ever live concert in Hong Kong this September. Ariana won ‘Best New Artist’ at the 2013 American Music Awards , ‘Favourite Breakout Artist’ at the 2014 People’s Choice Awards, and the ‘Young Influencer Award’ at the iHeartRadio Music Awards. She is best known for top singles like ‘Problem’, ‘Yours Truly’, and ‘My Everything’. Ariana is promoting her megaanticipated iTunes #1 2016 album ‘Dangerous Woman’ at the Asia World Expo for one night
Got an event? We can publish the details for free. Email editorial@hongkongliving.com.
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family
Back to school Essentials for the new academic year. By Trisha Harjani
Incase 13” hardshell case for MacBook Air $398 from Apple Store Festival Walk, 80 Tat Chee Avenue, Kowloon Tong, apple.com
KEY Cable $250 from Native Union Nam Wo Hong Building, 148 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan, 2522 0803, nativeunion.hk
Philips Earphones $195 from HMV Telford Plaza I, 33 Wai Yip Street, Kowloon Bay, 2739 0268, hmv.com.hk
12 Colours Gel Ink Pen Set $95 from MUJI East Point City, 8 Chung Wa Road, Tseung Kwan O, 39713120, muji.com.hk
Crocbite Pocket Puncher $68 from Homeless HomeSquare, Sha Tin, 2691 1981, homelessexpress.com “Sweet” collection 2-pack notebooks $110 from kikki.K Cityplaza, 18 Taikoo Shing Road, Central, 2117 0916, kikki-k.com
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class collection
Black Napa Leather School Shoes $450 from Simply Shoes Remex Centre, No. 42 Wong Chuk Hang Road, Wong Chuk Hang, simplyshoes.com
Pressure Free School Bag $449 from Dr. Kong Tseung Kwan O Plaza, No. 1 Tong Tak Street, Tseung Kwan O, 2207 4262, dr-kong.com.hk
Daily Journal by Urban Outfitters (Mint) $160 (plus $60 shipping) from OHH DEER ohhdeer.com
Kids’ Happy Jackson Lunchbox $150 from J.Crew IFC, Central, 2628 5611, jcrew.com/hk
Kindle E-Reader $999 from EmotionTech emotiontech.hk Travel umbrella by Kate Spade $375 from Shopbop shopbop.com
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news
Sai Kung boy with rare bone condition cycles for charity Jack Farmer, an 8 year old Sai Kung boy diagnosed with Perthes Disease, has inspired his family to start a charity called Pedal Through Perthes. The charity aims to raise awareness and funds for the Farmers’ two chosen charities, The Perthes Association and Sailability. Jack was diagnosed with the rare bone degenerative condition back in November. An active child who enjoyed many cycle holidays, he completed Duathlons and played for the Sai Kung Stingrays. “Now all that has had to stop,” said Leanne Richards, Jack’s mother. “This is devastating for us as a family who enjoyed a very active, sporty lifestyle.” Despite the lifechanging condition which prevents Jack from playing rugby or riding his BMX bike, Jack has remained strong and positive. More recently, the Farmer family has found a new way for him to cycle. With a custom made hand-powered handcycle, Jack joined the last stretch of handcyclist Robert Groves’ coastline challenge from Brighton to London last month.
Cars broke down and traffic ground to a halt when an amber rainstorm flooded Sai Kung on July 18. Flooded areas include Ho Chung village, Pak Sha Wan, and Sai Sha Road; apart from Sai Kung, Tai Po and Sha Tin were also severely affected. Four cars were half-submerged under a metre of water on Ho Chung Road, and several drivers had to be rescued from their vehicles. The flooding came as a surprise; the Drainage Services Department had already reduced flooding risk in 2007 by widening the Ho Chung River, a two-year $160 million project. On numerous Sai Kung community Facebook groups, residents posted warnings of flooding
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Photo by D. Waterston
Sai Kung Floods
and congestion throughout the day, including areas near Nai Chung and outside Che Kung Temple. According to the Observatory, a peak of 64mm of rain was recorded in Sai Kung, and total rainfall in the area remained at 20-27mm throughout the day.
Using the same handcycle, Jack will cycle with his supporters at Pedal Through Perthes Cycling Challenge charity fundraiser on November 11. The family fun three-kilometre ride, starting from the Renaissance College basketball courts, will end with barbecued sausages and a silent auction. Until September 8, cyclists and supporters can buy a t-shirt from the website, and proceeds will be donated to Pedal Through Perthes’ two chosen charities. At the time of writing, the Farmers have raised $5,086 and are over 50 per cent towards their target. After the fundraiser, the Farmer family will travel and do conservation work before taking on the Danube Cycle Trail in Europe as a sponsored cycle next May. Learn more about Jack’s story and donate at pedalthroughperthes.org
Organic Farmers’ Market Opens The Sai Kung Weekend Organic Farmers’ Market has opened, offering fresh produce sourced from local organic farmers. Consumers can reduce their carbon footprint, better understand where their food comes from, and interact with local farmers in their community. Organised by the Sai Kung District Community Centre (SKDCC), the market is open 11am-5pm every Sunday and public holiday on Mei Yuen Street. For more information call Sam from SKDCC at 2798 9511
in your backyard
A first glance into Shrewsbury International School
At the beginning of July, Shrewsbury International School conducted their first external school site tour. Anyone living around the LOHAS Park area will have undoubtedly seen the school’s campus begin to take shape. At the time of the visit, four floors had been erected and key features were now identifiable, including the indoor curved running track and the spacious sports hall it sits above. Refreshingly, the campus has an unobstructed view over LOHAS Park and is situated amongst beautiful green hills. “We’re right next to some great hiking trails which we can take the older kids on,” said Principal Ben Keeling. Not forgetting
the younger children, Keeling highlighted the nearby Tseung Kwan O South Waterfront Promenade which would make for a suitable walk. The school is scheduled to open in August 2018 and applications are open for kids between the ages of 3 and 11. For the academic year of 2018-2019, the tuition fees are expected to be $137,000 for Nursery, $147,000 for Reception and $169,000 for Year 1 and above. Each application requires a non-refundable fee of $2,800. For more information visit shrewsbury.hk
Paws for Latin Brunch
Sai Kung Stray Friends Foundation (SKSFF) is holding a fundraising event August 19 to support 100 dogs in need including litters of puppies. The fundraising-fiesta will be held at newly launched restaurant PICADA in Central. A couple of furry friends will be available for a meet and greet, along with a visit from Ansh Sahay, the 11 year old Kellett School pupil who made headlines for raising over $100,000 for SKSFF’s dogs. Justin Bieber fans can enter the ‘#desPUGito’ charity campaign for a chance to win two free tickets to the brunch; just share a picture of your favourite dog (real or imaginary), add #desPUGito, and tag @SaiKungStrayFriends on either Facebook or Instagram. The contest deadline is August 14. Tickets available for $500 on eventbrite.hk. $50 discount for the first 50 ticket-holders.
Plans for Shaw Studios
Mysterious Casa graffiti artist Over the last few months, Casa Tapas Bar has repeatedly had their logo painted over by a mysterious person. “It either happens very early in the mornings or very late at night. We have no idea who’s behind it,” said co-owner Nathan Fleck. “This happens every month and the vandal/artist seems to be doing a really tasteful job; a different colour is used each time. So far, we’ve had pink, blue, red and silver. It used to be bright white.” After some thinking, Fleck has found a silver lining to the situation, “I’ve decided to turn this defacement into a charity drive. Since we can’t really stop it from happening, why fight it? Each time it happens, I’m going to choose a charity, relevant to the colour, and place a collection box inside with a chalkboard on the wall explaining what charity we’re collecting for.”
Painted colour (above) and original (below)
Fleck will post more information on the selected charity on Casa’s Facebook and Instagram pages.
Revised plans to redevelop the Shaw Studios in Clearwater Bay were submitted to the Town Planning Board (TPB) on July 5. The plan proposes a comprehensive development for residential and commercial use, with the construction of a hotel, a kindergarten, shops and restaurants. The plans have been revised in accordance to a “preservation-cum-development” approach. Three buildings are safe from redevelopment: the iconic Administration Building, Shaw Villa and the two facades of Sound Stage I and the dormitory blocks. For more information visit info.gov.hk/tpb
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giveaways
win at saikung.com
The Complete Works of William Shakespeare (ABRIDGED) Experience William Shakespeare as you never have before; see all 37 plays in just 97 minutes! The Complete Works of William Shakespeare (ABRIDGED) has been performed to millions around the world, including USA, New Zealand, Japan and finally Hong Kong! The Complete Works of William Shakespeare (ABRIDGED) was one of the most successful ever to grace the stages of London’s West End, having clocked ten years at the Criterion Theatre. We’re giving away a family set of four tickets, worth $2,380 in total, to the opening night at 8pm on September 19.
Waterfall Sports and Wellness
Younibody
Azzita HoverLand
A perfect chance to perfect your golf swing! Get the most out of your golf practice in the driving range of Golf Waterfall. Conveniently located next to the Olympic MTR station, the club is equipped with a multi-storey long driving range, diversified short driving range and bunker, and a multi-curvature nine-hole putting and chipping green. We are happy to give away a companion golf membership offer valued at $1,000.
Younibody offers holistic healthcare services to individuals who want to improve their health but eliminate the guesswork. Their expert registered dieticians, health coaches and therapists provide nutrition planning, bioresonance therapy and lab testing services in seven locations in Hong Kong. Don’t let the technical term scare you bioresonance therapy is great for children and people suffering from allergies, skin problems such as eczema, and attention deficit disorders (ADD). We’re giving away a free quantum health test and 50 per cent off your first bioresonance therapy session, valued $1,970 in total.
Channel your inner Marty Mcfly in this hoverboard experience! Azzita HoverLand is a local Hong Kong brand which started as an online platform, with an international network across Europe, the United States, Australia, Russia and Taiwan. With Azzita HoverLand’s hoverboard experience voucher, you will get to try out hoverboarding under guidance for 20 minutes. We are giving away 30 Hoverboard Experience vouchers worth up to $2,670 in total.
Subscribe to our e-newsletter to get all our giveaways delivered straight to your inbox: saikung.com/subscribe
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SAIKUNG.COM | 15
five minutes with
Michael Pittman Publisher
Tom Hilditch tom@hongkongliving.com
Trisha Harjani speaks to the Sai Kung-raised paleontologist who discovered a new species of dinosaur
Editorial
Editor-in-Chief Shreena Patel shreena@hongkongliving.com Contributing Editor Carolynne Dear carolynne@hongkongliving.com Acting Editor Eric Ho eric@hongkongliving.com Editorial Assistant Trisha Harjani trisha@hongkongliving.com
Design
Design Manager Cindy Suen cindy@hongkongliving.com Graphic Designer Anna Schulteisz anna@hongkongliving.com
Digital
Digital Assistant Cora Chan cora@hongkongliving.com
Thanks to
Dr. Pauline Taylor Jai Rane Kate Davies Max Yip Mehul Dhakka Paul Zimmerman Stephen Vines
Published by
Hong Kong Living Ltd. Floor LG1, 222 Queens Road Central, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Illustration by Kat J. Weiss
Pittman holding a skull cast of the dinosaur he discovered, the Linheraptor
I’m a Paleontology assistant professor at HKU. I grew up in Hong Kong; lived in Sai Kung with my parents and went to King George V School before going to London to study Geology at UCL. I always liked the outdoors. Once I realised that paleontology was something I could actually take seriously as a career, the rest was history. I completed my masters and doctorate in Paleontology before returning to Hong Kong. The wilder country side was one of my fondest memories of Sai Kung. Unfortunately, you have to go a bit further now for it to be perfectly quiet.
HONG KONG hongkongliving.com
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As a kid I used to watch David Attenborough’s documentaries and dinosaurs were one facet of that. As I got older and appreciated what makes them special and interesting, I wanted to do more.
The first dinosaur I discovered is called the Linheraptor. It was the first landmark paper for me that I published as a PhD student. It sounds a bit snobbish, but that’s the basic thing you do, you discover new animals. The first time you do it, it’s great.
A lot of fish poo are kind of like an ice cream cone
I’ve developed a strong interest in understanding how dinosaurs evolved into birds. A big part of my work has been trying to figure out how they made that amazing transformation. I mainly work on fossils but I spend a lot of time researching modern animals to
try and learn from them about dinosaurs. I actually made a discovery in Sai Kung a few years ago. It turned out to be a little fish older than the oldest known from northeastern Mainland China. The fossil is now in the Stephen Hui Geological Museum in HKU. We didn’t dig it up but found it in the geopark in Lai Chi Chung. We haven’t discovered any dinosaurs in Hong Kong yet but the rocks at Lai Chi Chong are the right age to find fossils. We have strict laws in Hong Kong. If you want to dig up and take something out, you need a permit which makes it challenging to find fossils. The public can’t help because they’ll get in trouble. When I go to the Gobi Desert we have an area that is hundreds of times larger than the one we have
the dinosaur expert in Hong Kong. In Hong Kong hardly one per cent of the area is searchable. So while there’s potential, it’s an odds game. The Gobi goes from one extreme to the other, in the winter it goes down to minus 50 and in the summer plus 50. The people that live there are some of the hardiest people on earth - but there aren’t many of them. Typically, it’s 40 degrees and it’s dry heat and the sun’s very intense. I actually wear long sleeves, long trousers and a hat. Fieldwork can be hairy. Usually you can see a sandstorm from far away but it’s scary when you get caught in a rapid one or even a flash flood. The latter in particular can be very dangerous. I remember once it was drizzling a bit and we were in a desert where there were no trees, only rocks. As soon as it rained, the rocks went whooosh - that can be fairly scary. I’ve had hikes in Sai Kung where it’s been more uncomfortable than the desert. Because the Gobi desert is dry heat, I cover up entirely. You’d think it’s crazy in the desert but the heat is so intense that you have to constantly reapply sunscreen if you have exposed skin. Being in Hong Kong is good preparation for the Gobi.
People don’t believe that I go to the desert. I don’t look bear-grilled, so people might not expect that. I have had friends jokingly question my visits. People are also surprised that I sing and write music. Fossil fish poo has to be the strangest thing I have found. Within the poo you can see that there’s actually bits of other fish. It tells you about what the intestine looks like. A lot of fish poo are kind of like an ice cream cone. I’ve also discovered other species including a one-fingered dinosaur and a feathered dinosaur we found recently. The latter had bird-like feathers and we were able to show that the feathers associated with flight originated before the first birds so it was amazing, it made us rethink how things happened. Unfortunately there’s no Pittman-something. I haven’t had a dinosaur named after me yet. I need to be more famous. A lot of my senior colleagues have things named after them. If someone in the future named a cool raptor after me, that’d be cool but if it was a raptor that was a vegetarian or something I wouldn’t be very happy.
As a scientist you’re challenged all the time. You come across stuff that no one has ever done. You can only bring two things; what you know and what your collaborators know. When you’re working on a frontier, it’s super challenging and sometimes very frustrating. Science is actually quite creative, it’s not just sitting around analysing data. You have to find connections and that involves creativity. Paleontology is like treasure hunting, we cannot predict what we might find next. There are still many things which still amaze me and that’s what keeps me going. I think people should match up what they enjoy with what they’re good at. The really successful people tend to be driven by their passion. I used to be in a blues band and I sing sometimes. Besides hiking and rock climbing, I like travelling to new places. I’ve been to around 50 countries but I try to see new things and get new experiences. It keeps me grounded.
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local
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Printer
Apex Print Limited 11-13 Dai Kwai Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, Hong Kong
Giving berth
Berths full at Hebe Haven Yacht Club
Government reveals plans to use typhoon shelters as mooring sites amid chronic space shortage. Jai Rane reports
T saikung.com ads@hongkongliving.com @saikungmag facebook.com/SaiKungMagazine GIVE US A CALL! Admin: 3568 3722 Editorial: 2776 2773 Advertising: 2776 2772, 3563 9755 Sai Kung & Clearwater Bay Magazine is published by Hong Kong Living Ltd. This magazine is published on the understanding that the publishers, advertisers, contributors and their employees are not responsible for the results of any actions, errors and omissions taken on the basis of information contained in this publication. The publisher, advertisers, contributors and their employees expressly disclaim all and any liability to any person, whether a reader of this publication or not, in respect of any action or omission by this publication. Hong Kong Living Ltd cannot be held responsible for any errors or inaccuracies provided by advertisers or contributors. The views herein are not necessarily shared by the staff or publishers. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any way, part or format without written permission from the publisher.
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he Marine Department is considering setting up temporary private mooring in typhoon shelters to ease the territory-wide shortage in berthing spaces. One potential site is the Yim Tin Tsai typhoon shelter. Secretary for Transport and Housing Frank Chan Fan revealed the plans in response to a question by transport sector lawmaker Frankie Yick Chi-ming. Chan says that the Marine Department is “also considering” creating 1,200 additional private moorings by expanding three existing mooring sites in Tso Wo Hang, Plover Cove and Tai Mei Tuk. The chronic shortage of mooring space has been a public issue for several years. In 2014, the Marine Department responded to public pressure by promising a review by mid-2015. However it is only now that the issue has been readdressed. The current scarcity of mooring space has significantly increased the cost of boat ownership and forced many skippers to moor illegally. Marine department statistics show that there were 9,748 licensed pleasure vessels last year but only 5,000 moorings and dry berths for
their use. Boat owners who can afford the soaring rent prices often have to spend years on waiting lists for marina spaces. A leading HK yacht broker who wished to remain anonymous says that “the whole of Hong Kong is full” and it’s “killing the boating business”. He says nobody wants a boat when there’s no mooring space - “it’s like buying a Ferrari when there are no parking areas.” One of
The whole of Hong Kong is full and it’s killing the boating business
his clients is currently stuck in Hong Kong because he cannot sell his boat. He thinks Chan’s suggestion is a “good idea” but it can only provide temporary relief, as “bigger boats need power for running batteries and such measures would only work for little boats.”
“Mooring and berth spaces have run out in Hong Kong since two years ago and most potential yacht owners have given up considering such an idea,” says Gordon Hui, chairman of luxuryboat maker Sunseeker Asia. “Over 30,000 people are working in this marine industry but the growth in this industry is looking bleak.” Hui suggests that instead of more private mooring spaces, the yachting industry would like more public marinas. “This could have a small contribution to high end tourism too,” says Hui. He believes this will benefit boat owners and non-boat owners alike as people can still go to these public marinas to enjoy dinners, drinks and a view of the luxury yachts only metres away. It will be “a LKF by the sea”. “We hope the government can consider these points rather than selling all the land to property developers to build expensive housing that many people can not afford.” Hui suggests the Kwun Tong Kai Tak basin as an ideal location for his proposed “LKF public marina”. Hong Kong lost its title as the “boating capital” of Asia in 2005. The city is currently fifth behind Shanghai, Singapore, Shenzhen, and Ningbo.
on patrol
Police blotter Senior Inspector Max Yip reports on the recent cases in Sai Kung
- On July 2, a male victim held a ‘naked chat’
on Google Hangouts with a female he met online. Shortly after, the female sent a video showing the victim’s half-naked body to blackmail him for $2,500. The victim made the payment but was blackmailed for another $2,000 to delete the video. The case was reported to the police at this point.
- In the early hours of June 11, a drunk victim walked into the 7-Eleven convenience store to buy a drink but ended up in a heated dispute with a non-intoxicated customer. In the heat of the dispute, the customer assaulted the victim with his bare hands before fleeing the scene. The police are still searching for the aggressor.
- At 1:30pm on July 7, a male aged 59 was
swept away by a large tide whilst out collecting whelks from Biu Tsim Kok, near East Dam of High Island Reservoir. At the
time of the incident, the victim was with three friends who immediately sought help in reporting to the police. The victim’s body was recovered two days later in the sea near Long Ke.
- A female aged 54 went out hiking near
Leung Sheung Wan, but at around 5pm she accidentally fell and broke her left arm. She was rescued by the police and carried to Tseung Kwan O Hospital for treatment.
- Around midnight on July 10, the police
caught three mainlanders near the East Ninepin Group transporting around $250,000 worth of frozen meat up into China. All three culprits were arrested for the offence of smuggling.
- An incense tree at Ta Ho Tun was intact on
July 3 but by the next day the tree had been cut. An investigation has now begun.
- A taxi driver picked up three passengers at
Sai Kung Town Centre at 6:39pm. Reaching around Pak Sha Wan, one of the male passengers began kicking the seat of the driver but when told to stop, he repeatedly punched the face of the taxi driver. The taxi drove straight to the hospital where he reported the case, resulting in the passenger’s arrest.
- The police have begun operation Rock
Fighter which will run until late September. The operation is focused on preventing vulnerable youths from the influence of drugs and triads during the long summer vacation. Officers will be deployed around youth gathering spots during the evening till midnight.
For more information, contact Sai Kung Police Station, 1 Po Tung Road, Sai Kung, 3661 1630
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village focus
Kei Ling Ha
Jessie Yeung visits the village that became two.
T
ucked on the innermost shore of northern Sai Kung’s Three Fathoms Cove, Kei Ling Ha is a quiet waterside haven, home to various precious flora and fauna. Situated on Sai Sha Road, on the border between Ma On Shan Country Park and Sai Kung Country Park, the village is accessible by public buses 299X and 99. However, you might notice two stops for Kei Ling Ha; although it was one unified village at the time of its founding, the village has since split into Kei Ling Ha Lo Wai (Old Village) and Kei Ling Ha San Wai (New Village). First settled in the early 17th century by the Ho clan of indigenous Hakka people, Kei Ling Ha Lo Wai was originally enclosed by thick defensive walls against pirates and gangs - hence the “Wai” in its name, which translates to “surround”. San Wai branched off in 1876, and at its peak, the two villages’ total population reached 130; now, only a handful of
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residents remain in Lo Wai and San Wai. For an afternoon of exploration, get off the bus at San Wai, where a road downhill leads away from the sounds of traffic and towards a cluster of homes. Inside a small house plastered with traditional Chinese banners, an ancestral shrine honours the Ho family with sticks of incense and black-andwhite photos. Although villagers now hail from different origins, Kei Ling Ha was home to 30 generations of the Ho lineage, and many descendents still return every year to pay respects to the Ho ancestors. The tranquil village streets, set against the backdrop of Ma On Shan, eventually lead to the shoreside path that links San Wai and Lo Wai. The narrow walkway offers peeks of the cove, and occasional breaks in the dense undergrowth lead straight to the water. On a hot day, it feels heavenly to take off your shoes and wade in - just watch out for fiddler crabs!
One of Kei Ling Ha’s treasures are the mangroves that grow by the path and line the blue bay. Apart from preventing coastal erosion, mangroves also provide wildlife habitats, feeding grounds and nesting sites, which create rich ecological diversity. Home to five of Hong Kong’s eight mangrove species, Lo Wai has been granted conservation and protection as a Site of Special Scientific Interest. Also seen on the path are Kei Ling Ha’s second famous attraction: its butterflies. They flit in and out of bushes in quick flashes of colour, often followed by butterfly enthusiasts wielding cameras and macro lenses. Although the path ends at Lo Wai, which is comprised of vacant houses and the few remaining residents, another natural gem awaits just further down Sai Sha Road. Beginning at the Shui Long Wo bus stop, the Kei Ling Ha Tree Walk winds through the
shoreside walk
Looking out onto Three Fathoms Cove
Observational terrace
outer edge of the Ma On Shan Country Park, highlighting local species such as Elephant’s Ear and Lance-leaved Sterculia. If you’re in a stargazing mood, a 10-metre observational terrace is located by the Shui Long Wo bus
stop, where you can end your day under the clear countryside sky. Want to be village correspondent? Email editorial@hongkongliving.com
Ho's ancestral shrine
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cover story
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the best of SK
The Readers’ Choice Awards 2017 The best of Sai Kung, as voted by you
Awa Choice rds
2017
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cover story
Choice Awards
2017
Best Restaurant and Best New Restaurant
The Conservatory The Conservatory came to Sai Kung less than a year ago, but it’s already risen to the top to claim both “Best Restaurant” and “Best New Restaurant”. Run by Clearwater Bay-based husband and wife duo, Robert and Kim Cooper, The Conservatory became an instant hit with diners - serving up homemade thin crust pizzas and Mediterranean-style small plates made to share. “The hard work has paid off and I’m really happy to know that the close-knit Sai Kung community has accepted us into their beautiful village,” said Kim who was grateful for the double awards and hopes to continue pleasing Sai Kung diners. “Thank you so much for voting for us and please keep letting us know what you want to see regarding food and service at The Conservatory.” Among their great menu selection, the creamy brie with roasted garlic & toasted focaccia ($78) and Moroccan spiced lamb cutlets ($128) won your votes for favourite dish. G/F, 26 Wan King Path, Sai Kung, enotecagroup.com
Choice Awards
2017
Best Fine Dining
one-thirtyone Nestled in the beautiful surroundings of Three Fathoms Cove, one-thirtyone provides guests a unique dining experience not too far from town. Located in a three-storey Mediterranean style house on a big block of land, the restaurant has a beautiful view out onto the clear waters of Sai Kung. During the day, diners can sit outside and enjoy the sunshine. The space also has a large lawn where children and dogs can run around freely. When the sun sets, the space is dimly
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lit producing an intimate and romantic setting, perfect for a date night. The food is just as good as its location with Chef Gary Cheuk serving up modern European cuisine with a twist of French food. Dishes are delicately presented and change every month depending on the seasonal produce. one-thirtyone also has a small farm next door where herbs and some vegetables are grown and used in its dishes. The space is available to be hired for private events and
dinner parties - advanced booking essential. Choose from either their four-course lunch set ($600 plus 10 per cent service charge) or their six-course dinner set ($1,200 plus 10 per cent service charge). 131 Tseung Tau Village, Shap Sze Heung, 2791 2684, one-thirtyone.com
the best of SK
Choice Awards
2017
Best Coffee Place
Little Cove Espresso The quaint Australian-style cafe has won “Best Coffee Place” for a second consecutive year. Little Cove Espresso was opened by power couple Adam Keith and Jade Carey back in October 2015 and has since become the default choice for many locals looking for a great cup of coffee. Many of you told us you loved its relaxed environment, outdoor seating and great friendly service. Besides the great coffee, Little Cove Espresso also serves delicious pastries and breakfast, including options for vegetarian, vegan and paleo eaters. G/F, 34 See Cheung Street, Sai Kung, 9572 8560, facebook.com/littlecoveespresso
Choice Awards
2017
Best Flace for a Drink
Which Cuisine would you like to see open in the Square?
Casa Tapas Bar Casa has firmly established itself as a local favourite since it opened in 2013, and this year is no different as they manage to retain their title of “Best Place for a Drink”. While there are cocktails, wine and homemade soft drinks on offer, the main emphasis is on the craft beer. Beer lovers will find Lion Rock Pale Ale, Moonzen, gwei.lo, IPA and a special beer crafted especially for Casa. Their food menu is kept simple with a short list of snacks
and tacos packed full of flavour. The team prides itself on combining flavours and ingredients from around the world so you’ll be able to find tacos with different fillings including tagine lamb, BBQ bourbon beef and seared tuna. Shop 1, Hoi Pong Square, Sai Kung, 5594 0007
Vegan
Japanese
Indian Spanish tapas
Turkish
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cover story It wouldn’t be Sai Kung without… “The amazing ” wonderful people
Choice Awards
2017
Best Preschool
“The old vill playing cardsagers “Lush greenery selling vegetabl and and village es in houses” the square”
Woodland Sai Kung Pre-School Woodland Sai Kung Pre-School wins “Best Preschool” in our Sai Kung Readers’ Choice Award 2017. Located in Marina Cove, the Sai Kung school includes a spacious outdoor play area for children to explore. With nine schools spread out across Hong Kong, Woodland has become a trusted and well-regarded pre-school for parents for the last 39 years. “We would like to extend our heartfelt thanks to all readers for voting for Woodland Sai Kung Pre-School. The ‘Best Preschool Award’ is such an honour and most importantly, it’s very encouraging for us to be certain with the quality of early childhood education we provide,” said Angela Chan, Head
of Woodland Sai Kung Pre-School. “This truly validates all the hard work that the teachers put in with the children as we have some amazing staff who deserve to be recognised. We are committed to serving our community with high quality education. A readers’ award comes directly from the people we are working with and so it really does make it extra special.”
d, junk “Good foobeaches” trips and
“Bad ly expatdressed s”
“Our co ws!”
G/F, Marina Cove Shopping Centre, Sai Kung, 2813 0290, saikung@woodlandschools.com, woodlandschools.com
Choice Awards
2017
Best Day Spa
Sense of Touch Sense of Touch is no stranger when it comes to winning awards. This year the Sai Kung branch celebrates the incredible achievement of winning the “Best Day Spa” for the sixth consecutive year. “On behalf of the Sense of Touch family, we are truly honored and very happy to once again win this most coveted award. Thank you so much to our communities in Sai Kung for your loyal support! We will continue to work on making our treatments up to date and provide top notch services to you all,” says Managing Director Anna Treier. G/F, 77 Man Nin Street, Sai Kung, 2791 2278, senseoftouch.com.hk
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the best of SK
Choice Awards
2017
Best Hairdresser
Tala’s Hair & Beauty Tala’s Hair & Beauty Centre has snagged the title of Best Hairdresser every year since the Readers’ Choice Awards was launched, and this year is no exception. Opened in 1999 by owner Mojdeh Kazemi, Tala’s has attracted a wide and loyal customer base over the years, and Kazemi has become a beloved cornerstone of the Sai Kung community. She keeps customers returning with a variety of international-standard beauty services, ranging from shellac manicures to hair treatments and eyelash extensions. The salon’s airy interiors and warm hospitality don’t hurt, either. Kazemi has big plans for the future; Tala’s is set to relocate to See Chueng Street in September, where they will continue to offer Tala’s existing services with the added perk of an open rooftop where customers can sip a glass of wine.
If you could change one thing about Sai Kung… lic ” “More puobrt” “Dog poo transp “Traffic ” “More p ople on arking” “less peen k wee ds”
56 Po Tung Road, Sai Kung, 2335 1694, talashair.com
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cover story Q&A with Charles Leitch How long have you worked with the Stingrays? 10 years
Choice Awards
2017
Why do you think people voted for Sai Kung Stingrays? The growth of Sai Kung Stingrays has been phenomenal with Sunday morning’s at the Stadium becoming a community event. Stingrays includes both boys and girls, so everyone can be part of club. I think the fitness, values and teamwork that players learn are an important part of growing up, and let’s face it hundreds of players running around Sai Kung in Pink and Blue is difficult to miss!
Best Local Sports Team
Sai Kung Stingrays When a few Sai Kung parents organized a children’s rugby group in 2006, they probably didn’t imagine they would win Best Local Sports Team for four years in a row. However, with the support of club sponsors and enthusiastic players around Sai Kung and Clearwater Bay, the Sai Kung Stingrays have grown to over 800 registered players in teams of all age groups. Both gender-inclusive and open to Cantonese and English speaking players, the Stingrays have represented Hong Kong in numerous
competitions such as the Youth Asian Games in Nanjing. “A big thank you to all who voted for Stingrays,” said Charles Leitch, Chairman of the Youth teams. “It’s very much appreciated and we look forward to seeing you on the pitch or touchline.” The Stingrays will start the new season in late August, and interested parents can register their children online. 9282 6912, saikungstingrays.com
What’s the best part of your job? I’ve been lucky enough to work with some awesome kids and coaches over the years, to see the development of the players and the club over a 10 year period has been amazing. For me, the best moment was watching the class of 2000 win the Tanglin 10s cup in Singapore in extra time, capping a two year unbeaten run.
Funniest Sai Kung Rumour nd around a s n u r t s “A gho nts old town” hau
“Something about how the issue of traffic congestion will be improved...” Choice Awards
2017
Best Homeware Store
“Sai Kung’s McDonald’s is closing down”
Shun Kee City Houseware (Harrods) No matter what you’re looking for, you can always rely on Shun Kee City Houseware. The family-run store has been opened for more than 50 years, selling everything from bamboo steamers to inflatable swimming pools. Shun Kee City Houseware has been affectionately nicknamed “Harrods” after the London
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department store’s motto “All things for all people, everywhere”. Often you will find the friendly store manager, Kenny Wong, perched at the front of the store, smiling at everyone who walks by. 8-10 Yi Chun Street, Sai Kung, 2792 3145
is “The MTgR” comin
building “They’rezoo” a
“FEHD reasonable wtoill be with outdoor places seating”
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cover story Choice Awards
2017
Best After School Activity
Sharpe Steps Sharpe Steps dances its way to the award for “Best After School Activity” this year. Their dance classes provide the perfect introduction to the world of dance, teaching children as young as 1 year old how to boogie. Lucy Sharpe founded Sharpe Steps back in 2013 to meet the growing demand for high quality dance education in the region. “I’d like to extend my heartfelt thanks to the Sai Kung community, my loyal Mums, Dads and friends for voting for Sharpe Steps - it really means the world to me to be acknowledged in this way,” Sharpe said after we told her she received an award. “To see the happiness and excitement in their little faces is such a rewarding experience by itself, but to be able to do the job I love, share my passion with our amazing community, and then to be honoured like this has truly blown me away. Thank you
Choice Awards
2017
Most Underrated Place in Sai Kung
AFCD Lions Nature Education Centre
for this wonderful recognition, but it’s really your little ones that make it so fabulous! I very much look forward to welcoming them back after the summer.” Sharpe Steps hold classes across
Choice Awards
2017
Best Workout
The Studio Sai Kung
A 16-hectare haven of greenery and wildlife, the AFCD Lions Nature Education Centre wins “Most Underrated Place in Sai Kung”. Managed by the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department, the centre is free to the public with attractions such as crop fields, bamboo groves, herbal gardens and an insectarium. It’s a popular destination for local schools, and visitors can often see students examining labelled vegetable patches and photographing the abundant butterflies. As a dog-friendly space, it also makes for a tranquil stroll for dog owners and families. In a city where sustainability is often put on the back burner, the centre emphasises the importance of conservation with eco-tours and educational workshops.
The Studio has reclaimed its title of “Best Workout” in the Sai Kung Readers’ Choice Award 2017. The fitness studio offers a wide range of classes suitable for people of all ages and levels of fitness, including pilates, piloxing barre, Zumba and yoga - Tamika’s yoga class, in particular, received many honourable mentions. Flickie Lapish, Manager of The Studio said, “On behalf of The Studio Team, I would like to thank all your readers who voted for us. We love running The Studio and feel privileged to be part of such a lively and special community in Hong Kong. We hope the sessions at The Studio help with that feeling of fitness and well being.” No membership is necessary and walk-ins ($160) are welcome. Packages range from $750 to $1,500.
Hiram’s Highway, Sai Kung, 2792 2234, afcd.gov.hk
1/F, 28 Man Nin Street, Sai Kung, 2791 9705, thestudiosaikung.com
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multiple Sai Kung locations, including two locations along Man Nin Street, Hang Hau and Clearwater Bay School. 9040 6296, sharpesteps.com
Q&A with Tamika Savory How long have you taught yoga? I’ve been teaching yoga for 14 years. Over the years, I’ve added further specialisations (Prenatal, Postnatal & Yin) and assisted Yoga Teacher Trainings to help guide the next wave of teachers. How did you originally get into yoga? I remember enrolling in a yoga course while working full-time and struggling with the beginnings of Repetitive Strain Injury from using a computer all day. Admittedly, I didn’t enjoy my first class, but by the end of the course I was hooked. I felt fantastic— stronger, more flexible, and more aware of my body, posture and breath. I even felt taller! Any advice for people looking to start? Bottom line, yoga makes you feel good. Whether you’re interested in stretching and strengthening, getting in shape, destressing, or simply taking a moment in the day to focus on yourself, it’s definitely worth showing up for. It doesn’t matter if you’re an acrobatic freak or an inflexible tin-(wo)man, everybody benefits and feels the same at the end of the practice—everybody feels better.
the best of SK Q&A with Dr. Mike Muir Do you have any pets of your own? We have 2 dogs and 2 cats at home, and are hoping to have a mouse shortly (which we will keep away from the cats). Why did you choose to become a vet? I think a lot of the initial drive came from reading Gerald Durrell books. I had in mind a job working with wildlife in a gamepark or a similar environment.
Choice Awards
2017
Best Vet
Dr. Mike Muir, Pets Central After helping open the first Pets Central clinic in 2006, Dr. Mike has become a household name for pet owners across Sai Kung. With three other permanent locations in Mong Kok, North Point, and Tseung Kwan O, as well as two mobile clinics, Pets Central has come a long way since they launched the flagship Sai Kung store. Apart from medical treatment and grooming,
the clinic now also offers pet products sold in-store and online, training services, and facilitates adoptions. Dr. Mike, has now been Pets Central’s Director of Veterinary Services for eleven years, and hopefully for many more. 66 Yi Chung Street, Sai Kung, 2792 0833, pets-central.com/hk
What do you think makes a good vet? Nowadays, there are so many different types of vet jobs that i don’t think there is a simple answer. I work mainly as a first opinion general practitioner which has a very different set of requirements to a person working in emergency clinics or more specialist fields. I see my role as working with owners to find practical solutions to their animal issues, whether these are medical, behaviorial or social problems.
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cover story Choice Awards
2017
Choice Awards
2017
Best Place for a First Date
#1 Private sampan
Best Sai Kung Village
Tai Wan Tai Wan wins this year’s brand new award for “Best Sai Kung Village”. Situated along Tai Mong Tsai Road on the very border of Sai Kung West Country Park, Tai Wan is engulfed in lush greenery and just a stone’s throw away from Sai Kung waters. The village is only a short walk away from town yet enjoys a quiet environment surrounded by nature. Many of you told us you loved the village for its friendly people, social community and great canoe club.
#2 The Conservatory
#3 Thai Dao
How to get to Tai Wan A 30 minute walk from Sai Kung Town. Follow the waterfront towards Sai Sha Beach before continuing along Tai Mong Tsai Road.
Choice Awards
2017
Best Annual Event
Dragon Boat Festival Every year, excited crowds gather at the Sai Kung Promenade to cheer on their favourite teams at the Dragon Boat Festival. Voted “Best Annual Event” for the fourth year in a row, the Dragon Boat Festival honours the traditional Chinese Tuen Ng Festival, and is eagerly anticipated every summer. Thousands of paddlers in over 150 teams represent corporate groups, local sports clubs, and university teams, all of whom have undergone months of intense training. Although the tournament usually ends in the afternoon, festivities continue into the evening, complete with lion dancing and seafood feasts. Sai Kung District Community Centre, 8 Mei Yuen Street, Sai Kung, 2792 1762, skdcc@skdcc.org
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the best of SK
Choice Awards
2017
Best Beach and Favourite Place to Take the Kids
Trio Beach
Choice Awards
2017
Best Dog Walk and Best Place to Take Guests
Sai Kung Waterfront Though often crowded and boisterous on the weekend, this lively spirit gives Sai Kung Waterfront its character, as well as the awards of “Best Dog Walk” and “Best Place to Take Guests”. With its range of dining, beauty, and retail options, the waterfront is a favourite
Choice Awards
2017
destination for guests and residents alike. It’s the heart of town, with sampan ladies, fishermen in wellies, and exuberant children scampering about. And of course, the long walkway with sea views which make a great afternoon stroll with a canine friend.
Once again, Trio Beach has been nominated “Best Beach” and “Favourite Place to Take the Kids”. Trio Beach is loved for its soft white sands and clear water. It’s smaller and more secluded than other well-known beaches, and has been pronounced one of Hong Kong’s cleanest. Fully equipped with a snack kiosk, barbecue pits, shower facilities and a playground, Trio Beach offers a peaceful afternoon for parents and plenty of fun for the kids. How to get to Trio Beach A 10 minute sampan ride from Pak Sha Wan Pier. Boats run from 8am-8pm, Mondays to Thursdays and until 9pm on other days.
Best Hike
MacLehose Trail Section 4 Opened in 1979, the 100 kilometre MacLehose Trail starts from Sai Kung and crosses eight country parks to span the entire city, finishing in Tuen Mun. Along the way it passes vast reservoirs, sandy beaches, dense forests and rugged peaks. Section 4 is one of the
most difficults section of the trail. Hikers are guided up Ma On Shan before crossing to the peak of Pyramid Hill. From the top, hikers have a stunning view overlooking Sai Kung town. In 2016, National Geographic listed the MacLehose Trail in its list of World’s Best Hikes: 20 Dream Trails.
How to get there: Take Bus 299X or 99 from Sai Kung Town and alight at O Tau New Village bus stop. For more of our favourite hikes, see The Sai Kung & Clearwater Bay Hiking Guide, available at saikung.com
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cover story
Congratulations to all the winners!
Sea Lagoon $10,000 weekday evening cruise with drinks and snacks for ten people sealagoon.com Winner: Helen Morris
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winners
Hebe Haven Yacht Club $5,250 adult HKSF Level 1 and Level 2 sailing course
Sense of Touch Sai Kung $3,090 ultimate pampering package
hhyc.org.hk
senseoftouch.com.hk
Winner: James Edwards
Winner: Charlotte Beard
The Conservatory 4 x $500 dining vouchers
Maven 4 x $500 Castelbel Ambiente gift set
enotecagroup.com
Winner: Claire Brownless Tim Metcalfe Prudence Ng Margarita Hoyos
Hong Kong Golf & Tennis Academy (HKGTA) 2 x $2,680 golf and tennis training packages hkgta.com
Winner: Hendrik Boeschoten
mavenhk.com
Winner: Nicolaus Strozeski Renae Rufus Mary Walters Wendy Kirwan-Elliott
Louella Odie 5 x $250 holiday wallets louellaodie.com
Winner: Sandy Kwong Meg Snelgrove Keith Holder Karen Clark Sarah Chu
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education
Inside the colourful world of PIPS
Kate Davies takes a tour of Parkview International Pre-School
I
f you’ve ever driven into the Parkview complex at the top of Tai Tam Reservoir Road, you may have seen the double doors immediately on your right. If you peek through them, there’s not a lot to see apart from a rather pedestrian looking lift lobby, but if you take the lift one floor down you enter Parkview’s International Pre-School (PIPS) - and it’s certainly a long way from ordinary. The walls and floors are painted in vibrant colours, student’s artwork and projects are proudly displayed around the rooms and the sound of young children laughing and playing fills the air. This is clearly a happy place. The principal, Mary Scarborough, greets me with a warm smile. She looks completely
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at ease with being in charge of the Parkview and Kowloon campuses of PIPS, but that may be due to having more than three decades of Early Learning experience under her belt. (There is another branch called Rhine Garden in the New Territories that falls under the PIPS umbrella of schools but I am told it operates quite independently from its two more urban sisters). Scarborough tells me that PIPs began in this very spot 28 years ago. Aptly named after its location, its Kowloon counterpart was created in 2007. Both are authorized International Baccalaureate (IB) World Schools that follow the Primary Years Programme (PYP) for children from one to six years old, including playgroup through K1 to K3. Classes
are taught in English and Putonghua in both schools with the option also of Cantonese at the Kowloon campus. According to Scarborough, this tri-lingual option is to cater for those students who will continue their studies in local schools, although there are changes and some students who were headed into the local system often carry on with their classmates
a colourful world
Principal Mary Scarborough with the kids at PIPS Kowloon campus
into international schools. “The parents seem to like the playbased teaching system that we use,” says Scarborough. “We don’t have a lot of homework and we don’t have that kind of pressurised kind of set-up that some kindergartens do have. So I think the parents like that and then they think, ‘Well, I really want this to continue.’”
It’s part of an effort to offer the kids the broadest experience we can
In keeping with the IB ideology, the school’s aim according to its mission statement is to: encourage responsible, respectful, reflective practices along with intercultural understanding to promote compassionate, global citizens.
This, Scarborough tells me, is mirrored not just in what they teach but in the way they teach it. She tells me the teachers listen to, respect and encourage the children to be chatty. “People are usually struck when they come here. They say the children seem really
confident, curious and want to talk to the people who visit.” This conversational outlook is very much a welcome product of the inquiry based curriculum. At the beginning of a unit of inquiry children are asked to speak up and
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education
contribute what they know about a subject so teachers can build on that knowledge and, as Scarborough explains, challenge the children on the right level. “I’m always amazed at what the children can do, what they’re interested in and what they produce,” she says. On the tour of the Parkview campus, children’s projects were displayed everywhere, from paintings of animal habitats, to collages of leaves and things found in nature. In the library amongst the English and Chinese books were also books that some of the students had made as part of a unit of inquiry titled, ‘Imagination and learning can be inspired by books’. The school also places emphasis on educating the children about being eco-friendly. There are appointed ‘Green Ambassadors’ who are in charge of making sure the lights are turned off when a classroom is not in use. Part of this environmental learning is also played out in the garden where children find out about plants and even have a go at some gardening themselves - you can never grow green fingers too young. The garden is situated in the large outdoor area to the back of the school, alongside a play space, sandpit and climbing gym. There is also an intriguingly named “exploratorium” where the play equipment changes every week. The Parkview campus also boasts an indoor play area, a dedicated music room, a cookery room and animal corner where their
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most famous resident, Pancake the guinea pig, lives during the week. She spends her weekends hanging out at various student’s houses. “It’s part of an effort to offer the kids the broadest experience we can with the resources we have,” says Scarborough. This point is echoed in her ‘Principal’s Message’
on the PIPS website where she writes: our principal aims are to provide a safe and caring environment with rich and varied educational experiences so that the children in our school can flourish, grow, learn and fulfill their potential in every way. This is again underlined with the option of extra-curricular activities on top of regular
a colourful world
School Report
Established: 1989 Number of students: 200 (pre-nursery to preparatory), 48 playgroup Class size: playgroup: 8; others: 12-18 Curriculum: 2-6 years: inquiry and play based : IBPYP authorised Bilingual (English and Putonghua) or English classes Fees 2017/2018: Playgroup $41,800-$49,800; Pre-nursery and Nursery $99,000; Lower Kindergarten and Preparatory $198,000 Address: Tower 18, Hong Kong Parkview, 88 Tai Tam Reservoir Road Tel: 2812 6023
classes. These include Kung Fu, phonics, drama, piano, Chinese writing, sport and cooking. Scarborough also tells me there are English and Putonghua enhancement classes
for those who may need them. As my tour wraps up and I hand my visitor’s badge back, I think of all the times I’ve driven into Parkview and not thought much about
what was behind those double doors. It turns out there is a vibrant, colourful world of learning happening just one floor down.
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eating
Around the world in 80 days 8 restaurants
Let your tastebuds travel the globe without stepping a foot outside Hong Kong. By Shreena Patel
Picada Fans of former Elgin Street based restaurant Picada will Latin America be pleased to hear it is back and in a bigger location. The lively pan-Latin restaurant has moved to Wyndham Street, with a cosy terrace overlooking the nightlife below. Acclaimed Peruvian chef Abel Ortiz Alvarez, formerly of Chicha and Mayta, heads up the new kitchen team and brings together a selection of iconic favourites: think Peruvian ceviche, Argentinian steak, Venezuelan arepas, Colombian empanadas, Mexican tacos and more. After all, “picada” is a type of sharing platter. The Peruvian ceviche ($148) is my favourite dish on the menu – fresh and packed with flavour. I also highly recommend the hot scallops ($98 for two pieces). I much prefer the beef arepa ($78) to the empanadas ($98-108 for three: choose chicken, beef or mushroom), though both are made using corn flour. For something filling, the Argentine Ribeye ($378 for 12oz) is a classic and comes with three sauces (chimichurri, pico de gallo and aji limo). For dessert, try the Tres Leches ($75), a sweet sponge cake which uses three different types of milk – evaporated, condensed and coconut. The restaurant is open for lunch, brunch and dinner. Later on the evenings, Picada opens up its polished oak dance floor to regular live music, dance performances and guest DJs. It is definitely worth staying for this, but if you don’t fancy it, you can always head upstairs to the terrace lounge on the third floor. 2/F & 3/F LKF29, 29 Wyndham Street, Central, 3425 4037.
Robatayaki One for barbecue lovers. Japan This Michelin-recommended restaurant has been serving authentic robatayaki cuisine for the last 21 years – a big achievement in Hong Kong. Robatayaki (literally “fireside-cooking”) is a method of cooking whereby skewers of food are slowgrilled over hot charcoal. Also known more simply as robata, it originated centuries ago with Japanese fishermen off the northernmost island of Japan, Hokkaido. The fishermen would encase binchotan coals in a stone box, and gather round it on the boat. The box acted as a cooking area and portable source of heat, while the stone protected the boat from the intense heat. Nowadays, robata can be found much more widely. At the Harbour Grand, diners eat side by side around a U-shaped table, under solid oak beams taken from old fishing boats. The chef stands at the centre of the “U”, behind an array of fresh meat and vegetables, grilling everything to perfection. Choose from the menu, ask the chef for recommendations or order whatever takes your fancy. Standout dishes include the Hida beef sirloin steak ($1,480), the cod ($240) and the dried blowfish ($150). There’s a good
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sake selection and it’s not uncommon to buy a round of sake for your group and the chef. The communal atmosphere is great fun, especially for groups, and by the end of the evening (and several toasts) our chef’s face is rather red. Dinner runs from 6-10:30pm. A private VIP room seats 20. For the best value, the “Sumo’s Choice” Japanese brunch runs on weekends and public holidays from noon until 2:30pm and is priced at $458 per adult ($358 per child) - it includes one set of assorted sashimi and grilled cod per person, as well as unlimited servings of grilled seafood, meat and vegetables, sushi, tempura, desserts and more. Buy three, get the fourth free throughout August. Prices above are subject to a 10 per cent service charge. For reservations, call 2996 8438, harbourgrand.com
global gastronomy Olé Spanish Restaurant Another oldie but a goodie. This Spain restaurant has stood in the heart of the city for over 18 years, but its tinted windows and understated entrance mean you might easily pass it by. The weekend brunch is the highlight here. Introduced in April, it includes 12 of the restaurant’s signature tapas (classic Spanish omelette, deep-fried padron peppers, sautéed chorizo, clams, octopus, garlic prawns…) served at the table, followed by roasted suckling pig “Segovia Style”, traditional Spanish seafood paella and a paella of the day (chicken, chorizo, squid ink or Valenciana). Discerning diners can even upgrade their ham to the Joselito Gran Reserva, known for its snow white marbling and rich aroma. Finally, each person can pick his or her dessert from four options: Fried Milk with Toffee Reduction, Traditional Caramel Pudding, Spanish Churros with Hot Chocolate and Pears Confit in Red & Port Wine. The restaurant has a cosy, slightly dated feel, which I love. The brick walls, low ceilings and cluttered walls provide a true escape from the shininess of Central and, best of all, diners are serenaded with live music, courtesy of a duo of guitar-vocalists who are open to song requests. As for the food, it’s top notch and no wonder. Before arriving joining Olé in 2010, executive chef Jesus Pascual worked at an array of one-,
Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao China After three years in Hong Kong, this is still my favourite place for xiao long bao (Shanghai style soupy dumplings). Yes, Crystal Jade is a chain and yes, it’s now majority owned by the LVMH group, but the food remains delicious – from the thin-skinned, juicy dumplings it is so famous for, to the hot,
two- and three- Michelin starred restaurants in Spain, including Fogony, Les Cols and Arzak. He also worked as executive chef at Zure Exea and Cent Divuit during his time in Barcelona. Available Saturdays and public holidays, noon to 3pm. $380 per adult; $228 per child (ages 4-9). 10% service charge applies. Free flow packages are also available. 1/F, Shun Ho Tower, 24-30 Ice House Street, Central, 2523 8624, olespanishrestaurant.com.hk
crispy scallion pancakes, and all the dan dan noodles in between. Specialising in Shanghainese food, the restaurant was founded by a Hongkonger and originally Singaporean-owned. It now has 100 branches across the world, from the USA to India to Cambodia. This month, the restaurant has introduced
a new “Eat for Good” menu in collaboration with nutritionist and columnist Cynthia Wong. The dishes have been designed to use less sugar, salt and oil, with more options for vegetarians. I recommend the Sour Cucumber Skin Roll and the chilled Black Fungus Tossed in Aged Vinegar, but after that I find it difficult to resist old favourites. On my last visit, I also tried the black truffle xiao long bao (delicious but the original is still my favourite), the crispy beancurd sheets wrapped with mushrooms, and the deep-fried Mandarin fish with sweet and sour sauce – all of which I would recommend. The restaurant also serves its own special beer, created by Young Master Ales for Crystal Jade Hong Kong’s 15th anniversary last year. Packed with goji berries, red dates and more, it goes particularly well with the spicier dishes. Locations throughout the city, including IFC. Call 2305 9990, hk.crystaljade.com. Be warned, the IFC branch is always busy so get there before 7pm if you can and be prepared to get a ticket and queue.
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eating La Crêperie The place to go for traditional Brittany inspired delicacies: think France oysters, fish soup, sweet crêpes and savoury galettes. You may be familiar with the traditional, sweet crêpe, but the Breton galette is a pancake made with buckwheat flour and typically served with a savoury filling such as cheese, ham, eggs or vegetables. The restaurant, founded by Breton expat Philippe Ricard, celebrated its “permanent residency” in April, seven years since it opened its first branch in Wan Chai. It now has eight outlets across Asia, including Hong Kong, Shanghai (the original), Taipei, Ho Chi Minh City and Phnom Penh. The majority of ingredients found at La Crêperie are imported from France, including Brittany’s famous Val de Rance and Kerné artisanal apple ciders – a refreshing accompaniment to traditional Breton food. Don’t be deceived – the galettes are super filling. We order one per person and a delicious lobster salad ($152) to share, which is plenty. The galettes with potato are particularly filling but for me, a little too heavy for summer. My favourites are Les Pierres Noires (fresh tomatoes, egg, camembert cheese, French smoked ham, salad) and La Super Complete
Potatohead The famous Indonesian lifestyle and hospitality brand opened its Indonesia Hong Kong location last year. It’s not just about the food here – as well as Indonesian restaurant Kaum, the large space houses a bar (Eksotika), lifestyle boutique
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(French cooked ham, emmental cheese, camembert cheese, blue cheese, egg, salad), $128 each. For dessert, I’m a sucker for anything with Nutella so I wolf down Le Phare ($68, Nutella, fresh banana and strawberry), but more refined palates might wish to try one of the many other combinations, such as La Poulie ($78, pistachio ice-cream, honey, grilled
(Canaan) and even an “audiophile music room”, acoustically designed and kitted out with specialist gear, including vintage JBL 4355 speakers (used in the heyday of disco in the ‘70s and early ‘80s), Klipschorns and classic McIntosh amps and preamps. The space is also home to an 8,000-piece vinyl library with sounds from jazz, disco, rock, ambient house, New
almonds). GF, 69 Jervois Street, Sheung Wan, 2679 4666 (locations also in Causeway Bay and Wan Chai), facebook.com/lacreperiehk
Age, dub, house, techno, afro and everything in between. The space often hosts DJs, who play all night, selecting tracks only from the library. On our rainy Sunday afternoon visit, Kaum was filled with families and groups of friends enjoying the weekend brunch ($398 per person). Its large wooden benches and tables are perfect for groups and the atmosphere is warm and cosy. The brunch menu starts with six appetisers, all of which may be re-ordered as many times as you like (I recommend the tuna and the dumplings). For mains, each person can choose one dish (my favourite was the barramundi), which comes with vegetables to share. For dessert, there are two options to choose from (I recommend the mud cake). The food is good – I would have liked it to have more of a kick, but I would recommend it for those who don’t want too much heat. Freeflow packages are also available (from $195 for two hours). G/F, 100 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun, 2858 6066, kaum.com
global gastronomy Frantzén’s Kitchen Who is Frantzén, I hear you ask, and what’s so good about his scandinavia kitchen? Football player-turned-chef Björn Frantzén opened his first restaurant, Restaurant Frantzén/ Lindeberg, in Sweden in 2008 with pastry chef Daniel Lindeberg. Specialising in fine dining, by 2010 it had been awarded two Michelin stars. For the last year and a half, the restaurant (known as Restaurant Frantzén following Lindeberg’s departure in 2013) has been under renovation. In the meantime, Frantzén and his team have been busy doing pop ups across the
Björn Frantzén (left) and Jïm Löfdahl
Maison Libanaise Located just off the Mid-Levels escalator, this is a great choice Lebanon throughout the year for fresh, tasty food that won’t leave you feeling heavy or bloated. It’s part of the Black Sheep Restaurants Group, which also owns La Vache!, Carbone, Chôm Chôm, Ho Lee Fook and others. Inspired by 1960s Beirut, the colours of the building are beautiful - my favourite part is the staircase leading up to the first floor. The ground floor is for take aways only and has a slightly different menu with a couple of benches out front; the first floor is dine-in and there’s also a roof terrace. Reservations are not accepted, so expect queues at lunchtime. The weekday lunch set ($128 plus 10 per cent service) is not a bad deal: choose the roasted cauliflower, chicken shish taouk or grilled lamb kofta (one skewer only; I recommend the chicken) with either rice pilaf or salad, a dollop of hummus and of baba ganoush, a few homemade pickles and pita bread. You can add
world, from Dubai to Macau. Last November, they opened their first permanent restaurant outside of Sweden: Frantzén’s Kitchen in trendy Tai Ping Shan. The opening created quite a buzz and reservations were hard to come by. Eight months on, the restaurant’s 36 seats still get booked up quickly, though a few seats are always reserved for drop-in guests. The restaurant is headed up by Jïm Löfdahl, the first chef hired by Frantzén and Lindeberg back in 2008, and backed by Hong Kong based Swedish entrepreneurs Arne and Helen Lindman (the owners of Nosh café, which used to occupy the same spot). The cuisine is modern Nordic with Asian
Veal cheeks
influences and the setting is stylish but relaxed. Diners can choose to sit at the kitchen counter for the full experience or at a table in the dining room. The food is brilliant. It’s not cheap at all (bite size snacks start at $55; dishes range from $120245; the restaurant recommends 3-4 dishes per person), but the ingredients are of the highest quality and each plate is prepared meticulously. Of the snacks, the Swedish sushi (crispy white moss, fallow deer, cep mayonnaise and frozen foie gras) and the French toast (with summer truffle, balsamic vinegar and aged cheese) are both an absolute joy to eat, but gone in a mouthful. For the dishes, I recommend the veal cheeks (a classic Scandinavian dish, cooked for 24 hours with sweetbreads “Kalv i dill”, creamy and sweet and sour sauce with Swedish ättika, dill, glazed carrot and crispy onions), the pan-fried chicken, the North Atlantic cod and the pan-fried Hokkaido scallop. For dessert, the smoked ice cream (toasted nuts, tar syrup and salted fudge with cloves) is a favourite. If you’re drinking, there’s a great selection of wines and also a really nice pear cider - ask the friendly and knowledgeable sommelier for recommendations (just look for the guy with the fantastic moustache). Open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday (5:30 until midnight). Closed for the summer until August 7. Call 2559 8508 or email info@frantzenskitchen.com, frantzenskitchen.com French toast with summer truffle
on dessert OR tea for an extra $28 (the olive oil cake is good and a much better deal than the tea in my opinion, though it would be nice if the price included both). If ordering a la carte for two, we usually get the hummus ($48) and baba ganoush ($48; a smokey aubergine dip), tabbouleh ($88; a parsley based side dish which I think is overpriced, but balances the other dips well) and pita bread ($38 for two). For mains, we share a chicken shish taouk ($118; two chicken skewers packed with flavour on a cool mint sauce) and lamb kibbeh ($118; four tasty lamb patties with pomegranate seeds and yoghurt). I’m not a big fan of rice but the pilaf rice here is delicious, with lentils, spice and fried almonds ($68). If you fancy a drink, the walls are lined with a selection of Lebanese wines and the friendly staff are happy to make recommendations. 10 Shelley Street, Soho, 2111 2284, maisonlibanaise.com.hk
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eating
NIBBLES
Cali-Mex launches Bar & Grill Peninsula Hotel offers Restaurants limited-time mooncakes
Casa Lisboa reopens
Cali-Mex has relaunched its Sai Kung branch to Cali-Mex Bar & Grill. Unlike the signature fast-casual Cali-Mex Taqueria, the new Bar & Grill offers a sit-down dining experience with an expanded food and drinks menu. The Bar & Grill menu features classic dishes from the Taqueria menu, including burritos, quesadillas and tacos, as well as gluten-free and vegan options. However, customers can also enjoy new additions such as Sizzling Garlic Chili Prawns ($98), Baked Canadian Lobster ($248) and USDA Rib-Eye Steak ($208). For more information, visit cali-mex.com or call 2904 7698.
After a six-month hiatus, Portuguese restaurant Casa Lisboa is back. The new location on Wyndham Street sports a new decor and reinvented menu which celebrates contemporary Portuguese cuisine. Standout dishes from new executive chef Fábio Pombo include Portuguese Octopus Confit ($280), infused with Moscatel wine through steam cooking, and the fisherman’s dish Algarve Red Prawn ($280) made with an assortment of tomatoes of different origins. Loyal patrons will be glad to hear that old favourites such as Suckling Pig Slow Roasted “À Bairrada” ($260), Duck Rice Lisboa Style ($180), Portuguese Brown Crab “Sapateira” ($155) and Codfish Cakes with Parsley & Garlic Mayonnaise ($95) are still available to order. As for drinks, choose from over 70 wines or try one of the newly created cocktails - we highly recommend the Truffenia ($98, made with coriander), for something moreish, refreshing and not too sweet. 2/F, Parekh House, 63 Wyndham Street, Central, 2905 1168, casalisboa.com.hk
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To celebrate the approaching Mid-Autumn Festival, The Peninsula’s Cantonese fine-dining restaurant Spring Moon has announced the upcoming release of their mini egg custard mooncakes. Available for only three days, order the delicate treats online from August 21-23. The Peninsula’s egg custard mooncakes, wrapping Eastern and Western flavours in a light pastry, have enjoyed citywide popularity since their introduction. The mooncakes come in boxes of eight priced at $520, and each order is limited to 20 boxes. Online sales begin at 8am each morning, available at mooncake.peninsula.com
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sport
Sai Kung Bulldogs Football Club
Trisha Harjani speaks to Steve Markbreiter, Head Coach and Founder of Sai Kung Bulldogs Football Club
S
ai Kung Bulldogs Football Club (SKBFC) is a local “growing, progressive club that’s welcoming, supportive and all-inclusive,” in the words of Founder and Head Coach, Steve Markbreiter. Founded in 2015, SKBFC is a club that takes pride in a holistic teaching style, emphasising kindness, courage, dignity, determination; the core characteristics of its emblem, the British bulldog. Markbreiter is a home-grown, Sai Kung resident at heart with football running through his veins. He explains, “My passion for coaching kids comes from my own limitations; I was small and shy but my self-esteem came from my football.” In the early 1970s, he was the captain of Kowloon Junior School (KJS)’s football team and house captain of St. David's Society. Continuing in this tradition, Markbreiter was also “involved in the creation of five different local Sai Kung teams” and took Sai Kung Friends Football club to the first division. Drawing from his own experiences, Markbreiter believes football is a great avenue
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to improve confidence and promote a sense of community.
I was small and shy but my self-esteem came from my football
SKBFC is open to kids of all ages from 2-4, 5-9 up to 10-17 year olds and aims to encourage healthy, fun competition between local Sai Kung footballers. Training locally, Markbreiter tells us that “all the schools in Sai Kung have kids in my club” in addition to a sizable amount from Kowloon Junior School and King George V School. “I try and do regular matches against mostly local teams within the Sai Kung community.”
The club has even trained players who’ve gone on to play for football academies in the UK and to represent Kitchee and South China. “I was really proud of their rapid progress. Kitchee and South China are two of the most successful teams in the first division”. Aside from technical coaching, SKBFC also emphasises the “intellectual, physical and emotional” needs of the child through their “Comprehensive Coaching Football Program”. Markbreiter explains, “I make sure I satisfy all of these needs in every training session to ensure a fulfilling experience. The kids are not just learning about football.” It is through Bend it like this wholesome Markbreiter approach that
on the ball
SKBFC tries to set themselves apart. “Today, many children in Hong Kong lack focus; largely as a result of the new technological era of Playstation, laptops, ipads and smartphones infusing children's lives,” Markbreiter explains. He heralds football as a way to improve focus, promote a healthy mind and happy life as encapsulated by SKBFC’s motto, “Skills for football...skills for life.” Taking us back to the “good ol’ days”,
Markbreiter fondly described watching Bruce Lee, his idol, at the forgotten Sai Kung cinema and playing a game of footie on the long-gone sandy-gravel football pitch by the police station. “The sand pitch was a magnet for all the boys (girls didn’t play football then), we congregated there like bees to the beehive every weekend and summer holiday” he reminisced. “My childhood was idyllic, it was a simpler time.” Now, he explains, “I’m trying to keep this magic
alive and promote a feeling of community. I say to my kids, I hope you look back in the future with fond memories.” Training takes place at Sai Kung Wai Man Road Playground (opposite Sai Kung Swimming Pool) on Saturdays and Sundays from 2 to 3:30pm. Fee starts at $600 for two months. Visit saikungbulldogs.com or email steve@ saikungbulldogs.com for more information.
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travel
Did you know?
Siem Reap
Sunrise at Angkor Wat
According to legend, Cambodia came into being through the union of an Indian n Brahman named Kaundinya and a drago ss’ princess. Upon the marriage, the prince and father drank up the waters of his land over. presented them to Kaundinya to rule
Shreena Patel makes her first trip to Cambodia
E
ver since Angelina Jolie hit our screens in 2001 as Lara Croft, swinging from vines and running through abandoned temples in the Tomb Raider series, people across the world have been inspired to visit Cambodia—in particular Siem Reap—to see its ancient monuments for themselves. However, an international reputation is nothing new for Siem Reap. Rewind to the 1950s and ‘60s, following Cambodia’s independence from France, and the city was buzzing with famous guests, including the likes of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (former First Lady of the United States), Lee Kuan Yew (Singapore’s first Prime Minister), Princess Margaret of the United Kingdom and then French President Charles de Gaulle. After winning the 1955 elections, patron of the arts Prince Norodom Sihanouk sought to realise his vision of Cambodia as a modern, developed country with international connections. He launched a campaign of urban development and construction, commissioning young Cambodian architects to transform the cities and provinces with their brand of “New Khmer Architecture”. This era is often remembered as one of peace and prosperity, but political repression, involvement in neighbouring conflict and a deteriorating economic situation created divisions in Cambodian society that culminated
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in rise of General Lon Nol in 1970, and later in 1975, the Khmer Rouge. Cambodia entered into its darkest hour. The atrocities that took place within the country over the next few years are well known, though far beyond what most of us can imagine. Almost a quarter of the population was wiped out in less than four years.
Rewind to the 1950s and ‘60s, following Cambodia’s independence from France...the city was buzzing with famous guests
The Khmer Rouge regime was brutal, both physically and psychologically. Aiming to eradicate Cambodian society as it was and start again, its campaign of destruction targeted people, mentality, morality, medicine, education, art, religion, culture and civilization. The urban population was marched into the countryside to be used as forced labour; children were forcibly separated from their
parents; millions were tortured and killed for being “intellectuals”, from academics and artists to those who simply wore glasses. Books were burned, money and religion outlawed, hospitals and schools closed. Even after the overthrow of the Khmer Rouge by the Vietnamese in 1979, the country was plagued by a further decade of intermittent civil war. But all was not lost. In the years that have followed, Cambodia and its people have sought to rediscover their heritage and revive the enduring elements of a culture that was nearly destroyed. The process of recovery continues, with a renewed tourism industry contributing around 28 per cent of GDP in 2016, according to the World Travel and Tourism Council (on a related note, the Royal Ballet of Cambodia performs in Hong Kong for the first time on August 25 and 26. Renowned for its graceful hand gestures and beautiful costumes, it has over 1,000 years of history. Tickets available at urbtix.hk). On my first visit to the country—to Siem Reap in particular—I find a town full of history with beautiful tree-lined boulevards, colonial relics, ancient temples, great food, trendy cafés, spas, an established arts and textiles scene, and a friendly and hospitable people. Siem Reap has plenty to offer families, couples, friends and solo adventurers alike, with a modern airport and numerous guesthouses and hotels. The following are my recommendations of things to do.
wat’s up? Templing Visiting the temples is a must but there are over 100 so I advise being selective. We choose three to visit in one day, starting with a sunrise trip to Angkor Wat. You need a car to get between the temples, it’s too far to walk. Passes to the temples are sold in one-day (US$37pp.), three-day and seven-day blocks. Children under 12 visit free. The one-day ticket is valid only on the day of purchase (I’m told you can also buy it from 5pm the day before, but double-check this). The main ticket office on Street 60 opens at 5am and shuts at 5:30pm. It’s cash only, prepare to queue in the morning. We hire a driver to take us round. This costs US$40 for the day (driver only, no guide). Note that at all the temples, it’s respectful to cover your shoulders and knees.
Angkor Wat is the largest religious monument in the world
Angkor Wat—literally “City Temple” in Khmer—stretches over 160 hectares, making it the largest religious monument in the world. Built as a Hindu temple and dedicated to Lord Vishnu, it also appears on the Cambodian national flag. According to inscriptions, the construction of Angkor Wat involved over 300,000 workers and 6,000 elephants. Contained by a moat, it spans three levels, representing Mount Meru, centre of the universe and home of the gods in Hindu mythology. Climb the stairway to the uppermost level for the best views, although this only opens at 9:30am and there is usually a queue. Sunrise at Angkor Wat is not a solitary experience but the site is large enough to avoid big groups, especially if you steer clear of the most popular photo spots. As the sun rises, young, disheveled looking backpackers in baggy t-shirts and colourful trousers seat themselves along the temple walls, with their eyes closed in meditation (or perhaps sleep). I find myself wondering about all the history that has passed since these walls were built, many centuries ago. After returning to the hotel for breakfast, we head out to Ta Prohm (the location of Tomb Raider). This place is best described by Norman Lewis in A Dragon Apparent, Travels in Indochina (published in London, 1951). He writes, “The temple..offers none of the spectacular vistas of Angkor Vat, nor the architectural surprises of Bayon. It has therefore been maintained as a kind of reserve where the prodigious conflict between the ruins and the jungle is permitted to continue under control. The spectacle of this monstrous
Above: “Vegetable aggression” at Ta Prohm
vegetable aggression is a favourite with most visitors to the ruins...Entering the courtyards one comes into a new kind of vegetable world; not the one of branches and leaves with which one is familiar, but that of roots.” Our final temple of the day, Bayon, is located exactly at the centre of the most enduring capital of the Khmer empire, Angkor Thom— literally “Great City”. Five gates allow access to the city, though the southern gate is best restored. Flanking the causeway to each gate is a row of devas (gods) on one side and asuras (demons) on the other, a reference to the Hindu myth of the churning of the ocean of milk to
extract the elixir of life. Best known for the massive faces carved into its stone towers, Bayon is my favourite of the temples we visit.
Other places to visit Wat Bo—This is one of the town’s oldest temples and has a collection of well-preserved frescoes from the late 19th century depicting The Reamker, the Khmer interpretation of The Ramayana, an ancient Indian epic. Tonlé Sap—Visit the floating houses on this seasonally inundated freshwater lake, connected to the Mekong River.
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travel Food and drink Khmer Touch Cuisine Tasty Khmer cuisine, using fresh, local ingredients, good for sharing. I particularly liked the Lok Lak (wok fried beef with crushed pepper, spring onion and lime pepper sauce). Sivutha Blvd, Old Market Area khmertouchcuisine.com Mie Cafe Fine dining which combines Khmer and western cuisine in a small, garden setting. The food here is fantastic. I suggest going for one of the tasting menus, though the tuna tartar and the hot and creamy chocolate cake are delicious. Phum Treang, Slor Kram miecafe-siemreap.com Malis Traditional Cambodian dishes, like Fish Amok, with a modern twist. I enjoyed the curries here. The impressive building hosts regular DJs and musicians and has a beautiful courtyard area. Pokambor Ave., along the riverside near Preah Prum Rath Pagoda facebook.com/malis Olive Delicious French/Mediterranean inspired dishes. I recommend the tomato and basil tart, crispy Brie salad, blue cheese ravioli, baked seabass with pumpkin risotto and the chocolate cake. No. 319, Svay Dangkum olivecuisinedesaison@gmail.com FCC Angkor Stop by for a drink on the terrace and browse the old photos on display in this French former Governor’s mansion. I recommend the Frontline (chili-and-Kampot-pepper-infused vodka, passion fruit, lime and vanilla syrup). Pokambor Ave., next to the Royal Residence fcchotels.com
Bayon, Angkor Thom Fifty5 Kitchen & Bar A cool little cafe near Pub Street with great sandwiches, if you need a quick bite. Corner of Street 2 & Street 9, Old Market
Shopping Cambodia is famous for hand-woven silk, lacquer-ware and silver. Prices vary widely depending, to an extent, on quality. Located north of Pub Street and south of the old French Quarter, Kandal Village is Siem Reap’s rising arts and culture precinct. This area channels hipster vibes and is home to around 25 cafes, galleries, homeware, fashion and textile shops and spas, many of which stock a free and useful guide to the village. I visited Soieries du Mekong (no. 668 Hup Guan Street, soieriesdumekong.com), which sells silk scarves, designed in France and handmade by women in Northern Cambodia. Next door, Neary Silk is a family-run business which stocks a range of silks in lots of colours, all handmade in Cambodia—they can also tailor garments within two to three days. Christine’s (29 Street 9, christines-store.com) stocks fashion, accessories and homeware items from a range of Cambodian and French designers.
pub street
Since 1998, Artisans Angkor has been operating to revitalize traditional Khmer silk and handicrafts and alleviate poverty by providing young rural people with free training and fair job opportunities. It employs around 1,300 people, including over 800 artisans. Visit the craft workshop and main showroom, a two-minute walk from the Old Market on a road perpendicular to Sivatha Street, opposite the Terrace of Elephants hotel (look for a large sign). You
Did you know?
h The English “Cambodia” is from the Frenc Khmer “Cambodge”, which comes from the n “Kampuchea”. This is a shortened versio r, of the country’s official name in Khme “Preah Reacheanachak Kampuchea”
can also visit the silk farm, 20 minutes from the centre of Siem Reap. Two free shuttle buses run daily. artisansdangkor.com Silk Hand Made A huge variety of silks (including some beautiful raw silks), colours and items, from scarves to table runners. Located behind Sofitel.
Reads First They Killed My Father: A Daughter of Cambodia Remembers by Loung Ung Ung recounts her experience of the Khmer Rouge’s reign of terror and genocide, as a fiveyear-old survivor cut off from her family in 1975. The film adaptation, directed by Angelina Jolie, was released earlier this year.
Other activities
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Faces of Buddha at the Old Market
Golf There are several world-class golf courses in Siem Reap, including Angkor Golf Resort, designed by Sir Nick Faldo and located just 10 minutes outside the town (hotel pick-up available). The resort has won numerous awards since opening in 2008 and the 18-hole course is in top condition. The caddies provide useful advice, especially on some of the more challenging greens, and the British PGA Head Professional offers excellent tuition to golfers of all abilities on an all-grass practice range. The
wat’s up? Cambodia: a timeline 4200 BCE The earliest evidence of cave dwellers in the area that is present-day Cambodia
1594 The Siamese capture the Khmer capital of Longvek. Territory and sovereignty are eroded as Cambodia becomes a pawn in power struggles between Siam and Vietnam
Chinese traders record the existence of First what they call “Funan”, an area to the century CE west of the Mekong Delta, along the 19th Cambodia is placed under joint trading route from India to China. Funan century suzerainty of Siam and Vietnam is heavily influenced by Indian culture Sixth Funan is succeeded by what the century Chinese refer to as “Chenla”
1863 Cambodia becomes a protectorate of France
1969 The US begins carpet bombing suspected Communist bases near Cambodia’s eastern border 1970 General Lon Nol stages a successful coup while Sihanouk is visiting the Soviet Union 1975 Khmer Rouge rebels capture Phnom Penh. Led by Pol Pot, the Khmer Rouge institutes “Year Zero” and commits mass genocide
1979 1901 A French expedition to the Bayon clears Early ninth King Jayavarman II unites rival Chenla century kingdoms and the “golden age” of the and restores the whole site. Western tourists arrive in Angkor Khmer Empire begins. Huge temple complexes are built, notably Angkor Wat. 1932 The Grand Hotel d’Angkor opens Early 15th The Middle Period or the “Dark ages of 1941 Sihanouk becomes King. Japan invades 1993 century Cambodia” begins. The Siamese and during World War II Vietnamese attempt to gain control of the 1953 Cambodia obtains independence lower Mekong basin. The Khmer empire 1955 After abdicating to fight in the elections, enters into decline Sihanouk wins. Political opposition is 1431 Angkor Thom is sacked by the Siamese repressed. Communists, referred to as army. The capital of Angkor is abandoned “Khmer Rouge”, flee to the countryside 2008 in favour of more secure locations in the 1960 Sihanouk appoints himself Head of south State upon the death of his father Present 16th A brief period of prosperity thanks to day century maritime trade. Spanish and Portuguese 1965-67 Sihanouk allows the North Vietnamese to send military supplies to the Viet Cong adventurers and missionaries visit through Cambodian ports for the first time
Vietnam enters Cambodia and forces the Khmer Rouge from power, installing the People’s Republic of Kampuchea, with Hun Sen as Deputy PM. 10 years of intermittent civil war follow After UN-sponsored elections, Cambodia’s National Assembly votes to restore the monarchy. The royalist FUNCINPEC party and Hun Sen’s Cambodian People’s Party (CPP) form a coalition UN-backed war crimes trials of former Khmer Rouge leaders begin Hun Sen is still leader of the CPP and Prime Minister of Cambodia, making him the longest serving head of government of Cambodia
1979
1993
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travel clubhouse is modern and serves a wide variety of food and some very welcome cold local beers. Good quality clubs are available to rent. Current rates are US$155 per player (including compulsory caddy and cart fee). All-inclusive packages are also available through the resort’s sister company PSD Travel. Book online at angkor-golf.com
Where to stay—Editor’s picks The following hotels are all located within the town centre, a 15-minute drive from Siem Reap airport, 10 minutes from the temples of Angkor, and a short walk along the river to the markets and restaurants. Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor The Grand Hotel d’Angkor opened its doors in 1932, providing accommodation for the first wave of travellers visiting the famous Angkor Temples, including Charlie Chaplin in 1936. The hotel was occupied by different forces throughout the ‘70s and ‘80s but reopened in the ‘90s. Its grand reputation and old world charm continue to attract high profile guests. Stepping inside feels like going back in time—from the old cage lift in the lobby to the stately rooms and legendary Raffles butler service. There is even a Resident Historian on staff. The hotel was most recently renovated in 2012. Landscaped French gardens surround what is the country’s largest swimming pool, and the rooms, while in keeping with the hotel’s original design, are well-equipped and comfortable. All rooms feature either a private balcony or an oversized living area and a view of the pool or gardens. Two luxury two-bedroom villas are located by the pool. Head to the spa for a massage, browse the various boutiques on the ground floor (there is an on-site ATM), work out in the gym, take a cooking class (24 hours
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Angkor Golf Resort is located a 10-minute drive from the town centre
notice required) or enjoy afternoon tea in The Conservatory (2.30-5.30pm daily, from US$23 per set) while listening to the resident pianist. Before dinner, try the Elephant Bar’s signature cocktail, Airavata. The hotel restaurants showcase classic Cambodian cuisine, Royal Khmer dining (Restaurant Le Grand actually caters for the royal family when they’re in town at the royal residence across the gardens) and wider Asian and Continental dishes. A selection of Raffles Spa dishes caters for the more health conscious. There’s a good spread at breakfast I recommend a visit to the crêpe station. Nightly rates from US$218 for a State Room (King Bed), including breakfast. raffles.com/siem-reap Email bookus.siemreap@raffles.com Amansara
Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor houses Cambodia’s largest swimming pool
Amansara draws its name from the Sanskrit-derived word for ‘peace’ (aman) and ‘apsara’, the heavenly nymphs of ancient Hindu texts. The apsaras, it is said, emerged from the primordial churning of the oceans with the power not only to change their form at will, but also to bestow luck on those they favoured. Amansara was once the guest villa of King Norodom Sihanouk, during which time it played host to many famous faces, including former French President Charles de Gaulle, former Yugoslavian President Josep Broz Tito and actor Peter O’Toole. Built in 1962 by French architect Laurent Mondet, today the walled garden compound houses a tranquil 24-suite retreat (12 of which have private plunge pools), with two swimming pools, a roof terrace, gallery/boutique, library, spa and dining facilities. The hotel exudes ‘60s vibes - I can imagine James Bond staying here.
wat’s up?
A pool suite and the main pool at Amansara
The dining room is the focal point of the hotel and offers Khmer and western cuisine. Head here during the day for freshly baked cookies and cakes or visit the the library to bone up on the history of the town. The gallery has various local handicrafts and textiles for sale, including items from eminent Cambodian designers like Eric Raisina. There is no gym but you can use the one at Raffles, across the road. A variety of tours and customised excursions, including helicopter tours, are available. The hotel also regularly hosts guest speakers and local artists.
Belmond La Résidence d’Angkor Located by the riverside and built in traditional Khmer style with traditional hardwoods, La Résidence houses 54 deluxe rooms and eight Residence suites. The hotel entrance is beautiful, with high ceilings and statement paintings by local artists (a member of staff is always on hand to welcome returning guests with a much needed cold towel). The standout feature is the bar, located on the first floor above the lobby and beautifully constructed from teak wood. The hotel also has a boutique, spa, restaurant, gym and swimming pool, the last of which we can access directly from the back of our room via our private cabana. The rooms are elegant and modern—the bathrooms are particularly nice. Pop into the GM welcome drinks if you
Nightly rates from US$1,090 (Single Suite). Includes arrival and departure transfers, a daily private temple excursion with English speaking tour guide and transport (temple pass not included), remork transportation around Siem Reap Town, breakfast and a choice of either lunch or dinner, non-alcoholic beverages, daily snacks (cheeses, fruits, cakes...) and laundry (excluding dry cleaning). aman.com Email amansara@aman.com
Belmond La Résidence d’Angkor
can, held regularly at the bar, for complimentary drinks and nibbles. It’s a nice event and a good opportunity to mingle with the staff - we get a few great restaurant recommendations. Nightly rates from US$275 (Junior Suite), including breakfast and airport pickup. belmond.com Email reservations.rda@belmond.com NB. Hotel prices exclude tax and service. Thanks to Lonely Planet; Cambodia: After Angkor, A pocket history by Darryl Collins for Amansara; The Rough Guide to Southeast Asia on a budget; A short history of Southeast Asia edited by Peter Church; Fables of the Exotic East from the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor Collection
Tips Getting there: Direct flights from Hong Kong are available to Siem Reap. Tourist visas are required. I recommend applying for the evisa (evisa.gov.kh, US$36 for a single-entry, 30-day tourist visa). If you want to purchase a visa on arrival in Siem Reap, check your eligibility and the requirements (passport photo, fee, passport validity and blank pages) with the Cambodian Consulate (embassyofcambodia.org). Getting around: The best way to get around is by remork (motorised tuk tuk)— they are cheap, comfortable and a great way to see the town. Confirm the price before you get in. It’s usually around US$12 for a single journey within the town centre. Siem Reap town is flat so it’s also nice to explore the area around the Old Market by bicycle. Language: Khmer is the official language of Cambodia, although French is still spoken by the older generation. English is increasingly spoken in tourist areas. Currency: The national currency is the Cambodian riel, but nearly all places accept US dollars. Climate: The dry season runs from November until May (20°C to 32°C). Monsoon season is from June to October (26°C to 38°C).
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Talking trash
zim city
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The latest green issues affecting our city. 54 | SAIKUNG.COM
nce a day, Moran Zukerman walks out onto a small beach – Sam Pak Wan – on Lantau. Every day he finds medical waste: medicine bottles, ampoules, discarded medicine bags with the names of Hong Kong doctors and their patients, and syringes – many of which contain blood residue and have a needle attached. Three times, over a period of 12 months, we have collected these items and delivered them to the Environmental Protection Department (EPD). The last delivery was made on June 29. In the weeks prior to the event, we received calls from the EPD reminding us to be careful when handling medical waste on beaches! When challenged, the officer defended the government and explained that she herself had been on site to supervise cleaning by the Food and Hygiene Department’s contractors. And therein lies the problem. Calling in the cleaners is like tampering with a crime scene. Instead, we need a full forensic investigation into potential source points. One possible strategy is for government to urge doctors for help from their patients knowing when and where they have disposed their medicine bags might help. Another strategy is to test the residue in the syringes to determine the drugs involved. One thing is clear. Government officials sitting at their desks calling in the cleaners is an easy but completely useless solution. I proved this when tackling the ongoing dumping of waste along the side of Victoria Road in Pok Fu Lam after midnight. Every time it happened, I would get a proud call from FEHD mid-morning to explain that their contractors had quickly cleared the waste. Each time I got angrier that they had again failed to investigate the source of the waste. I assumed it was the same collector who decided to empty his truck when he missed the 11:30pm deadline of the West Island Transfer Station. One morning, after another report, I
biked over quickly and ripped open the bags before the contractors cleared it. A bank envelope led me to an address along Des Voeux Road West. There, residents and shopkeepers explained how they put their waste bags on the side of the road for collection, apparently, by a private sub-contractor of the government. After submitting the evidence, the dumping stopped. The only reason it took five years to solve the riddle, was because the crime scene was cleared every time without proper investigation. The same applies to the problem of hazardous medical waste. The government has yet to commit to getting its hands dirty and investigating. A large portion of the waste is obviously from Hong Kong. With our last delivery, we asked the government for one action: to facilitate a Hong Kong “take-back” program for medicine and syringes. Private medical clinics and public health facilities could be made to provide easily accessible sharps bins for used syringes and secure containers for accepting unwanted medicine from the public. As some of the medicine looks to be originating from China, the HKSAR government will have to collaborate with its Guangdong counterparts to find the sources on the mainland.
Paul Zimmerman is the CEO of Designing Hong Kong, a Southern District Councillor and the co-convenor of Save Our Country Parks alliance.
Horoscopes
hong kong horoscopes
AQUARIUS Jan 21–Feb 19
PISCES Feb 20–Mar 20
ARIES Mar 21–Apr 20
TAURUS Apr 21–May 21
What a beautiful place Tai O is. This fishing village at the end of Lantau has continued in its own sleepy existence for years, weekend tourists notwithstanding. Now, Aquarius, I don’t expect you to discover Nirvana – but I would like you to find a personal Tai O, a part of you that can remain at peace, occasional interruptions notwithstanding.
Do you remember Bus Uncle? The middle-aged man became a viral hit in 2006 when he berated a fellow passenger. “You have pressure, I have pressure, we all have pressure,” he yelled at his largely silent target. Truth is, Bus Uncle was right – it’s just that his method of releasing that pressure wasn’t ideal. Find a better way to release your pressure, Pisces. May I suggest tai chi classes?
Did you know that Ap Lei Chau is the second-most densely populated island in the world? Once a lowly fishing village, the development of four large estates has made it rather busier. Hong Kong island itself comes in at number 17 on the planet. What unexpected records do you hold, Aries? They don’t have to be world beaters. But what can you do better than anyone else you know, no matter how big or small? I bet there’s an Ap Lei Chau in you.
Garden Bakery was one of the first in the city to make bread for a local audience. Say what you like about its bread, but for me Garden’s spring onion Pop Pan biscuits are wonderful. They’re my Proustian madeleines, able to summon me straight back to my childhood. What takes you straight to your happy place, Taurus? Get some today.
LEO Jul 23–Aug 22
VIRGO Aug 23–Sep 23
LIBRA Sep 24–Oct 23
SCORPIO Oct 24–Nov 22
The Hong KongSingapore rivalry is well established. Hongkongers think that they’re better in every way, and Singaporeans are… well, they’re just wrong. I have to say that – I’m a Hongkonger, born and raised. But I’m willing to admit that there are some areas where my assumptions blind me to the positives. You might have these blind spots too.
The best-named road in Hong Kong is Route Twisk – doesn’t it sound like it should be paved with gold bricks, or lined with merry elves? The name actually came about because of a typo: it was originally termed Route TW/SK, because it runs between Tsuen Wan and Shek Kong. What a wonderful mistake. Sometimes, it’s mistakes that lead to the best circumstances. Your next error could actually be a Route Twisk.
Did you watch the movie “Ghost in the Shell” when it was released in March? Or perhaps you have seen the original, better Japanese animation? You should see one or both, if only because they were inspired by our city. They deliver a beautifully futuristic cityscape that’s nonetheless full of recognizably Hong Kong elements. What inspires you in Hong Kong, Libra? I think you should explore it more.
“Silk stocking milk tea” is a potent drink, strained through a long, fine filter said to resemble a silk stocking. It’s a Hong Kong classic, smooth and rich. To make the drink, the tea is simmered repeatedly, which intensifies the flavor, before it’s painstakingly filtered. There’s a lot of work that goes into such a seemingly simple beverage. Others may not appreciate the work you put into your milk tea, Scorpio: It’s OK to let them know.
As transmitted to Adam White, writer, editor and occasional soothsayer. 56 | SAIKUNG.COM
GEMINI May 22–Jun 21
CANCER Jun 22–Jul 22
My favourite Wong Karwai movie is the gorgeous “In the Mood for Love” – a film set in the 1960s, a time when main characters Tony Leung and Maggie Cheung can’t say what’s in their hearts, thanks to societal pressures. But you don’t have to be like Tony and Maggie, Gemini. Discover what you need to say – and then say it! If you’re wearing an achingly beautiful qipao at the same time, that’s just a bonus.
Internet shopping isn’t very good in Hong Kong. Overseas brands charge the earth to deliver here, and Taobao is more hit-andmiss than a kung-fu novice. Besides, we don’t really like buying sight unseen in Hong Kong. From fruit to fish to clothes, we like to see the real thing, to weigh it in our hands, to examine the quality. Getting the measure of something – or someone – is best done in real life, wouldn’t you agree?
SAGITTARIUS Nov 23–Dec 21
CAPRICORN Dec 22–Jan 20
I used to open my wardrobe to find mould growing on my clothes. Then I bit the bullet and bought a dehumidifier, and my life immediately got better: no more mould! What simple change can you make that will change your life immeasurably for the better? Identify it, then make that change. Oh, and if you don’t have a dehumidifier – get one at once.
Summer in Hong Kong means leading an airconditioned life. We move from covered walkway to shopping mall, from shop to shop. But can you blame us? It’s sweltering out there! Find your equivalent of the air-con life: after all, sometimes the path of least resistance is the wisest (and coolest) path to tread.
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Woof!
pets With Linda Jackson, Sai Kung resident and volunteer at SKSFF
Ask a vet... Pets Central’s veterinarian Dr. Pauline Taylor answers your questions.
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Sai Kung residents share their favourite dog walks 58 | SAIKUNG.COM
’m a regular volunteer at Sai Kung Stray Friends Foundation (SKSFF). The best part about volunteering with SKSFF is when I get to spend quality time with the dogs and take them out for a long walk to give them a break from the kennel. The best way to reach the SKSFF kennels is to take a taxi but there is also the option of a 45 minute walk from Ho Chung. Around the kennels, there are a variety of different routes and trails nearby, such as the Wilson Trail, which is a very popular choice for many. When turning left out of the kennels, walk down the Tai Lam Wu Road towards the pagoda with the dogs. Along the way you have the chance to see the most amazing variety of colourful butterflies and dragonflies. It is just so peaceful, a great escape with breathtaking views. With all the rain that we’ve had recently, you can hear the waterfalls gushing away around you. There is also a stream that flows along the back, where the water pipes got knocked by a big boulder due to the heavy rain and typhoon. Opposite the pagoda, you will notice the stream of hikers descending the set of stairs. These hikers have come from Tseung Kwan O which passes through Pak Fa Lam via the Wilson Trail. This route takes approximately 1.5-2 hours and makes for a great hike for those wanting to come and walk our dogs. If you’re looking for something less strenuous, head back up Tai Lam Wu Road, past the SKSFF kennels and just beyond Tai Lam Wu village, you can listen to the next waterfall and see the small self-made streams. Near the emergency service phone, there is a staircase and path where you can walk with the dogs. If you stay on the road and carry on walking to the blue bridge, you may be lucky enough to see the giant goldfish who lives alone in the water underneath the bridge. Continue walking down the hill to Ho Chung and visit the Che Kung Temple, one of the oldest temples in Hong Kong. The original was built on this site in the 16th Century. Don’t forget to look for the abundance of fish and the large terrapins swimming in the river. This is approximately a 45 minute walk down hill from SKSFF. When you’re ready to leave, continue out of Ho Chung and onto Hiram’s Highway to catch a taxi. Those leaving without a dog in tow, can catch either minibus 1A Ho Chung or 101M or bus 92 or 792M back to Sai Kung.
“How do you toilet train a puppy?” Great question! It is very important to get your pup into a routine as young as possible. You must train your pup when and where to eliminate and when he does so enthusiastically praise and reward him. You need to predict when your pup needs to eliminate and direct him to the appropriate area. Pups usually pee within 30 seconds of waking up and poo within two minutes. Please don’t frighten your pup with punishment. If your pup poos or pees in the wrong place it is your fault, not your pup’s. “ My two-year old dog is always ravenous. What do you recommend to feed my dog?” I’d be very concerned that the food is not the sole problem. My first recommendation is that you administer medication for gastrointestinal parasites. All pups are born with these and if not eliminated they interfere with normal digestion. Weigh your dog weekly, and check the poo colour, consistency and frequency of elimination. I’d recommend you feed a good balanced diet at an appropriate amount for your dog. Choose recipes and brands of manufactured dog foods carefully as they vary greatly in quality and price. If these changes do not make a difference within a month you must have your dog checked. “My dog barks at every dog he sees. Will he grow out of it?” Probably not unless he is a pup. If that’s the case, teach your pup to bark on cue, use the word ‘speak’ to encourage him to bark at a trigger then reward him when you ask him to stop. Barking happens in a wide variety of situations including play, attention seeking, territorial defense, fear and anxiety. A bark should always be analyzed by its tone, intensity and shrill. Pay attention to your dog’s demeanor, body position and facial expression. It’s very important to work out the information your dog wants to send to another dog. It could be a learned behaviour that may not be easy to stop.
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In the garden
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ith high humidity, seemingly neverending rain and typhoons aplenty, August is Hong Kong’s wettest month. This month’s average low and high temperatures are 26°C (70°F) and 31°C (88°F), but don’t fret, for autumn and cool days are just ahead. For now, put on your boots, traipse around the garden, and sweat through the last stretch of summer. There’s nothing like flowers for a spot of colour in your home. August is the perfect time to sow Sunflowers and Chinese Balsams, whose yellow and purple hues will liven up interiors. For something a tad more exotic, order bulbs of Lilium speciosum and Lilium auratum from Japan. Cuttings may be made for African Marigolds, Salvias, Marguerites and Acalyphas. Old marguerite plants can be kept through the summer and will afford stock for cuttings, but don’t grow them on a second year as the young plants will do better. Cuttings of Linum trigynum will also root well if put in now; these bright yellow plants flower in the autumn and may be propagated again in the spring. Croton cuttings put in last month will be ready for potting off towards the end of the month. Crotons lose their leaves during the winter, so though sometimes insufferable, Hong Kong’s heat has its uses - take advantage of it while it lasts. Eupatorium atro-rubens may now be put into flowering pots, and the first lot of Freesias and Violets may be potted. Violets may be taken out and re-potted in September or October, and cuttings may be made in December. If you’re craving leafy greens or a summer salad, seeds of the following may be sown: Mustard and cress, Chinese spinach, lettuce, sweet corn, Chinese green and white cabbage, celery, tomatoes and carrots. Celery and tomatoes require sowing in pans under cover, but remember to place the pans in the open once seedlings appear. Short Beans sown last month will require staking, and you can prepare soil for autumnal sowing by digging over vacant ground. Before long, lower temperatures will welcome the arrival of kohlrabi, ochroes and geraniums. By William James Tutcher F.L.S (1867-1920) Superintendent of Hong Kong Botanical Gardens. Paraphrased from his seminal 1906 work Gardening for Hong Kong.
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Born to be wild
stephen says...
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Sai Kung musings by Stephen Vines 64 | SAIKUNG.COM
o wonder the boars are wild Did you see the harrowing television footage of various policemen and FEHD officials trying to capture a wild boar who had strayed into an area near Lohas Park? The poor old boar was clearly traumatized and understandably keen to get away from this ham-fisted attempt to get him off the road. One policemen kicked the animal and he or she responded, injuring a passing cyclist; the policeman was also injured, but this was the result of falling over. Why it needed so many officials to do the job is a mystery, indeed why anyone was needed is also a mystery as wild animals try to keep well away from humans and present no danger as long as they’re not cornered. Mothers can sometimes be aggressive in defense of their babies but there were no pups in sight on this occasion. Wild boars are large and have big teeth that can do quite a lot of damage. I see them reasonably often near my house but there is no reason to interfere with their activities as they clearly are not keen on interfering with mine. Surely it is not too much to expect that they can be treated with some respect and left alone to retreat to wooded areas. Sai Kung minibus drivers behave in mysterious ways I almost had a heart attack recently because twice Sai Kung green minibus drivers behaved in ways I have never seen before. On the first occasion one of these drivers gave way to me at a junction – this breaks new ground as in my experience mini-bus drivers appear to have signed a pledge never to give way, on the contrary they generally aggressively assert their right to get ahead of all other road users. No sooner had I recovered from the shock of this uncharacteristic behaviour when another minibus driver pulled into a layby to collect passengers, signaled before doing so and signaled when pulling out. This elementary observance of road user etiquette stands in stark contrast to the normal practice of simply stopping in the middle road and, at most signaling the intention to do so by using hazard warning lights. Am I imagining this or are minibus drivers actually getting better? Meanwhile most other drivers of these vehicles are pursuing business as usual.
HKT in Wonderland I will say something for HKT or PCCW or Hongkong Telecom, or whatever it’s called this week, because the chaps who run it have a wonderful sense of humour. In July, Alex Arena, the company’s managing director, outlined what he claimed to be the world’s first upgraded broadband service that would offer households four individual one-gigabit per second (Gbps) fibre-optic connections, instead of just the one one-Gbps broadband service the company claims to be offering right now. Sai Kung residents can only dream of a broadband connection that is even half as fast as this connection speed, but the company claims that one-Gbps is what’s available throughout Hong Kong. Maybe by Hong Kong, HKT means the island alone; it sure as hell does not include most parts of Sai Kung. Anyway residents are now being offered the chance to pay extra for a bundle of four connections. This is Alice in Wonderland talk and I just love Arena’s use of words such as ‘guaranteed speed’ and the bald statement that his company offers ‘the best telecommunications services at the most affordable prices anywhere in the world’. I invite Mr Arena to my humble home to observe the reality of this claim. It’s a tinned sausage, not a person’s name With Hiram’s Highway much in the news, owing to the road widening scheme, time for a reminder as to how the road got its name. Contrary to what you may have read elsewhere, the road is not named after someone called Hiram Potts, the Royal Marine officer who was in charge of its construction. The name Hiram was a nickname, which he used himself and was derived from his passion for an American tinned sausage brand called Hiram’s. I’ve found it hard to track down his real first name, aside from the fact that it began with a K. However I really like the humour derived from a highway to Sai Kung named after a tinned sausage.
Stephen Vines is a journalist, broadcaster and entrepreneur. He is the former editor of the Eastern Express and Southeast Asia correspondent for The Observer.
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