Livorno Travel Guide

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A RRIVAL

W ORTH S EEING

F ORTEZZA N UOVA

F ORTEZZA V ECCHIA

C HURCHES

C ANALS

E TRUSCAN C OAST

I MPRINT

Arrival

The ÖBB Nightjet brings travelers to the region safely, comfortably, and above all, completely stress-free. Livorno is accessible by train from La Spezia or Florence via Pisa. Whether it’s a business or leisure trip, traveling by train is not only more comfortable but also significantly more environmentally friendly.

Worth Seeing

Naval Academy

The Naval Academy in Livorno has a reputation as one of the best training institutions for officers in Italy. The academy’s establishment was made possible by merging

the former schools of Genoa and Naples. The driving force was Navy Minister Admiral Benedetto Brin.

Boat Races

For centuries, traditional boat races have been held in Livorno. The competitions date back to a time when each city district had its own coat of arms and colors. In 2013, the clubs were reorganized, and since then, eight teams exist: Venezia, Pontino, Benci Centro, Borgo Cappucini, Labrone, Livorno Sud, Salviano-Colline, and San JacopoFabbricotti. The races always feature two competitions: one with the “Gozzettas,” boats for 4 rowers, and the

“Gozzo,” the large boat for 10 rowers. The large boats are about 9.2 meters long and weigh around 420 kg.

Throughout the year, many noteworthy boat races take place. On these days, all of Livorno is on its feet to cheer for their district’s team (Rioni).

The Venezia team won the Palio Marinaro in 2003 and 2004. The club was founded in 1924.

Some of the races also take place in the canals, such as the Coppa Santa Giulia. This race is held on May 22, the feast day of Livorno’s patron saint, “Santa Giulia da Corsica.”

The most important race of the year is the Palio Marinaro. On the first Sunday in July, the boats start on the open sea, opposite the Terrazza Mascagni.

The Palio Marinaro dates back to 1766, when it was organized by the Dutch community in honor of the visit of Grand Duke Leopold II.

Livorno Port - Harbor

oldest shipyards, specializing in the construction of luxury yachts. Lorenz Benetti began realizing “ship dreams” in 1873.

The legendary “Nabila,” an 86-meter-long yacht, was built in 1980 for a proud price of 100 million dollars. The yacht

Maria Brandauer. Today, it is called “Kingdom 5KR” and is owned by a Saudi prince.

Montenero

Montenero is a popular excursion destination. It can be reached either by sightseeing bus or bus line 2 (Montenero station). From here, you have a beautiful view of the city and the surrounding area of Livorno. The funicular station is also located here. If you travel with the sightseeing bus, the funicular ride is included. At the summit is the Monastery of the Madonna of Montenero.

SANCTUARY OF OUR LADY OF GRACE

Central Market

This building was constructed in the city center in 1894. Here, you can find numerous vendors offering typical local goods. Every Friday, a market is held on Via dei Pensieri

(accessible by bus line 5, “Via dei Pensieri Station” stop) from 8:30 AM to 1:30 PM.

Fattori Museum

The 19th-century Villa Mimbelli houses a significant exhibition of artworks. However, it’s not only the works by Giovanni Fattori and numerous other Tuscan artists that make the visit an experience. The building has three floors,

perfectly restored frescoes by Annibale Gatti, and an impressive staircase.

Modigliani Square

Piazza Modigliani is located on Viale Italia, opposite the city’s seaside resort. It is accessible by bus (bus line 1, Viale Italia, Pancaldi). Nearby is a venerable hotel belonging to

the NH Group. On the top floor, there is a bar with a great view and moderate prices.

NEPTUNE FOUNTAIN, MODIGLIANI SQUARE

Fortezza Nuova

Defense

The cannon points toward Via Solferino, at the end of which stands the Porta San Marco. It was placed here in 1999 to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the city’s

siege by Austrian troops. Despite the defenders’ valiant resistance, Livorno was captured in early May 1849.

Park

Today, Fortezza Nuova is a beautiful park. From the structure built in 1576, you have a great view of the Piazza del Repubblica behind it. Here, you’ll find statues of Archdukes Ferdinand III and Leopold II. Since the entire

square functions as a bridge over the canal, it is also the widest bridge in Europe.

FERDINAND III. AND LEOPOLD II.

Fortezza Vecchia

Fight Against Pirates

The origins of the “Old Fortress” date back to the Romans. At that time, the natural harbor in the Tyrrhenian Sea was protected by initial fortifications. As the port of Pisa increasingly lost importance, Livorno developed into one of Italy’s largest ports.

When the Medici arrived in Livorno, the fortress was expanded. To better defend Fortezza Vecchia, a deep moat

was added on the land side, so the structure was completely surrounded by water.

The appearance of the massive fortress was also important to the rulers, so one could get an impression of power and defensibility from afar.

meeting place for events and artistic encounters.

The Keep

After the first Roman structures, a square tower was built here. The legendary round “Matilda Tower” may have been constructed around the year 1000. According to legend, it is named after its builder, “Matilda of Canossa.” Another tale claims the tower was built by Pisa in 1241 to commemorate a naval victory against Genoa. In this legendary region, there is always room for imagination, and so it is with this massive structure.

Around the 14th century, Francesco di Giovanni and Puccio di Landuccio built the walls around the tower, known as the “Quadratura dei Pisani.”

Churches

Church of the United Greeks

The Greek Church (Santissima Annunziata) was built around 1606 and reflects the multicultural society of Livorno in the 17th century.

The church was built for the Greek sailors who came to Livorno in the 17th century and sailed on the ships of the

Order of Saint Stephen. The Order was founded to protect the city from attacks by corsairs and pirates. The Order’s fleet was stationed in Livorno.

Church of the Madonna

church.

One of the side altars comes from the Italian noble family Inghirami. Another is attributed to the French community,

Church of San Jacopo

The Chiesa San Jacopo in Acquaviv stands directly on the beach and is definitely worth a visit. The building dates from the 19th century. The true treasure lies “beneath” the church. Some time ago, work began to uncover the 12thcentury chapel on which the church was built.

Beneath the church, one can admire the excavations. From the small harbor next to the church, the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela begins.

Saint Gregory the Illuminator

The Armenian Church of “Saint Gregory the Illuminator” was built in the 18th century. Unfortunately, many artworks in the church were looted after the destruction of World War II. Today, only the facade of the church can be admired.

Since 2008, the former church has served as a cultural center.

Canals

New Venice

The Venezia Nuova district was established in 1629. The many navigable canals are reminiscent of Venice’s Serenissima. The construction of the canals dates back to the Medici era.

As times were “relatively” unsafe back then, the basements of the warehouses had direct access to the canal, allowing goods to be transported directly from the ship to secure storage.

Etruscan Coast

Along the Coast

The wild, romantic coast can be explored on the welldeveloped Strada Statale 1. Here, you’ll find the “Ristorante Hotel Il Romito sul mare.” The view from the terrace is

fantastic. While it’s possible to travel by train to Piombino, to fully enjoy the coastal landscape, you should travel by car.

Here is the “Castello Boccale.” Initially, only a tower stood here, called the “Torre del Maroccone” or “Devil’s Tower.”

The building was constructed around the existing tower.

“Torre e Ponte di Calafuria,” one of the typical observation towers of the 16th and 17th centuries. On the following

page, the “Ponte di Calignaia” is depicted. At the right edge of the image, you can see the “Castello Sonnino.”

The castle was built toward the end of the 19th century by

A Medici structure for coastal defense had already stood at this site. As the building is privately owned, it cannot be visited.

Quercianella

Quercianella is a suburb of Livorno. Here, you’ll find Villa Jana. The building was elaborately renovated in 1921 and is today one of the most striking structures in the area. The

water in Quercianella’s bay is particularly clean, which is why the area was awarded the “Blue Flag” in 2007.

Pasquini Castle

In 1889, Baron Lazzaro Patrone resided in the castle, which was built in a medieval style. The Baron provided land for the construction of the Castiglioncello train station, built at the foot of the hill on which the castle stands, in the style

of the castle. Since 1981, the building has belonged to the city and is a cultural site.

Castangeneto Carducci

The dreamy town lies in the Sassicaia wine-growing region. The historical roots of this charming place date back to 745. Originally, the town was called Castagneto della Gherardesca. Later, the municipality adopted the name

Castagneto Marittima. Finally, it was renamed Castagneto Carducci in honor of the poet Giosuè Carducci. A district is also located by the sea (Marina di Castagneto Carducci).

Bolgheri

Bolgheri is a district of Castagneto Carducci. The village is reached via an approximately 5 km long, perfectly straight cypress avenue. The “Viale dei Cipressi” connects San Guido and Bolgheri. The name of the place is derived from the “Bulgarians,” whose mercenaries, hired by the Lombards, were stationed here.

Just before Bolgheri, on the left side, is the Chiesa dei Santi, built in 1686. The church was constructed to commemorate the liberation of Budapest from the Turks.

The “Castello di Bolgheri,” through whose archway one enters the town, has been owned by the Della Gherardesca family since the 13th century.

Just behind the entrance, on the right, stands the Chiesa dei Santi Giacomo e Cristoforo. The church is one of the most significant buildings in the region. The interior has been completely renovated.

The place Bulgari Castrum was first documented in 1075. The castle dates back to 1158. Bolgheri is a small village with many shops, cafés, and restaurants. Here, you can feel the Tuscan way of life.

Bolgheri lies in the heart of the wine-growing region at the foot of the “Colline Metallifere,” a gentle range of hills. The mountains are characterized by a high metal content, which was already known to the Etruscans.

In 1974, Decanter Magazine held a competition in which a 6-year-old Sassicaia outperformed a selection of Bordeaux wines.

Overnight, the previously relatively unknown wines of the region became world-famous. The great red wines of Tuscany are unofficially called “Super Tuscans.” In the

region’s wine shops, you can experience all these top wines.

A few kilometers south of Bolgheri lies the “Caccia al Piano” farm. Not only is excellent olive oil produced here, but you can also experience what Tuscan cuisine has to

offer among the majestic olive trees. Fuselli is a place you absolutely must visit:

Baratti and Populonia

The Archaeological Park is located near Piombino. Here stood the city of Populonia in the 9th century BC, which was also the iron processing center of that time. Hematite

mined on the island of Elba was also processed here. It is an expansive park offering opportunities for extended excursions.

San Silvestro

The San Silvestro Archaeological Mining Park offers the opportunity to go deep into the mountain and experience how miners carried out their strenuous work here for

centuries. Visitors must wear helmets for safety reasons. The narrow passages can be somewhat claustrophobic for tall people.

Imprint

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The team

This e-book was made possible through the kind support of the regional tourist offices and the OBB. German proofreading and editorial: Martin Andergassen.

References

Text, videos and photos by Rudolf J. Strutz unless otherwise stated. Timetables and travel information: OBB

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