The two forlorn mannequin ‘prisoners’ sit on a rough-hewn bench behind ancient, rusting bars, reminding me that their fate – back many hundreds of years ago – was once uncertain. Such was life deep in the dank bowels of Baba Vida, Bulgaria’s only medieval fortress that’s been preserved in its original form. There is plenty to remind us of yesteryear here in Vidin, a city on the banks of the Danube in Bulgaria’s far northwest corner. Climbing Baba Vida’s metres-thick parapets, I glimpse Romania on the opposite bank of the river, reinforcing just how strategically important Vidin’s location has been across the centuries.
If there’s one consistent theme of our AmaWaterways ‘Gems of Southeast Europe’ itinerary, it’s castles. Through the ages, the mighty Danube River, running 2,850 kilometres from Germany’s Black Forest to its mouth in the Black Sea, has been a vital lifeline and an essential strategic objective, carrying crucial cargo of all kinds and forming boundaries between modern and ancient nations.
There are hundreds of such castles and fortresses along the waterway, with clusters near the capitals of each of the 10 countries along its route. During the chilly, misty November days of my visit, each takes on a surreal aura as its towers and battlements protrude through the gloom.
In the lead-up to Christmas festivities, many are transformed with cheery fairy lights and electric tinsel, belying the dark histories of each fearsome construction. Built of sturdy rock and stone to discourage and repel invaders, there are no fairytale banners or knights on white horses. Instead, I learn of a parade of despotic kings and their subjugated people.
A CHAPTER IN HISTORY
The 700-year-old Golubac Fortress in Serbia is an imperious redoubt straight out of Game of Thrones or Lord of the Rings It was the centrepiece of decades of conflict between the Serbian ruler, Stefan Lazarević, and his neighbours, including the rampaging Ottomans who were long on the warpath throughout the region. Inside the fortress are extensive displays of armour and gruesome ancient weapons used by both the defenders and attackers.
Further along in Hungary is the ancient Roman city of Pécs, accessed by a coach transfer from the port at Mohács and characterised, refreshingly, more by its magnificent places of worship and architecture than fortifications. The centrepiece is the imposing Roman Catholic Basilica of Saints Peter and
Paul. In true Catholic style, it is vast and opulent, having been damaged and restored numerous times over the centuries. Its current form only came about in the late 19th century.
The city’s Christian influence is reinforced by the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Early Christian Necropolis of Pécs, with its extensive Roman tombs and mausoleums dating from around the 4th century. The former Mosque of Pasha Qasim (now a church) dominates Széchenyi Square in the city centre, which is resplendent with festive decorations when I’m in town and also hosts an annual Christmas market.
ON-BOARD FESTIVITIES
As we continue our odyssey on this great waterway, our imperious flagship vessel – the 135-metre, 196-passenger ‘double-wide’ AmaMagna – we enjoy pre-Christmas celebrations on board including festive fine-dining specialities in each of the ship’s four venues. Particular mentions go to the ever-reliable Main Restaurant and the buzzy Jimmy’s Wine Bar & Restaurant, where sumptuous sharing platters are served at communal benches.
At this time of year, temperatures hover around freezing, so the Sun Deck can only be enjoyed in brief sittings. Still, the forward-facing Al Fresco admits plenty of soothing sunlight to complement guilt-easing vegetarian dishes and balmy beverages.
As we cruise westward against the lazy current, we come upon our last stops: Belgrade and Budapest, two historically significant cities that both once existed behind the oppressive, so-called Iron Curtain. Today, they’re crafting their own post-Soviet renaissance.
Belgrade, the capital of Serbia and former Yugoslavia, is the more sombre of the two cities, still bearing scars from both WWII and the more recent NATO bombings of 1999. We tour the massive neo-Byzantine Serbian Orthodox Church of Saint Sava, with its finishing touches still being applied after 90 years of on-again-off-again construction. Whether a Christian or not, one can’t help but be impressed by the intricate and ornate interior, with soaring arches glistening with gold inlaid iconostasis and detailed frescoes in the vast nave, all under a 30-metre-wide dome, 70 metres above your head.
Our last stop is a fitting finale. Hungary’s twin cities of Buda and Pest have risen, quite literally, from the ashes of WWII to create a bustling, modern metropolis that respectfully preserves the grandeur of its storied past. Magnificent buildings embrace a tasteful blend of neo-gothic, art nouveau, baroque, Romanesque and modernist styles, belied only by signage of their multinational retail tenants.
“Hungary’s twin cities of Buda and Pest have risen, quite literally, from the ashes of WWII to create a bustling, modern metropolis that respectfully preserves the grandeur of its storied past.”
One building holds particular significance for me. On my only other visit to Budapest, 15 years ago, I stumbled on the stunning Párisi Udvar (Parisian Passage) just a few hundred metres from the Erzsébet Bridge on the eastern side of the Danube (Pest). I peered into the dim, desolate central courtyard and, despite the gloom, was immediately struck by the exquisite interior of what was clearly once a prestigious retail venue. I later discovered it was designed by the Hungarian-born, German architect Henrik Schmahl and inspired by the Passage des Panoramas in Paris. Keen to revisit this site, I’m delighted to find it has been restored to its former glory and is now a five-star hotel, part of The Unbound Collection by Hyatt, with the queue to its cafe stretching down the street.
Today, life along the Danube is a far cry from centuries past, and while the ancient remnants remind me of more turbulent times, the pitiful incarcerated mannequins of Baba Vida belong in the distant past.
CRUISE NOTES
AmaMagna ’s ‘Gems of Southeast Europe’ cruise operates between Budapest and Giurgiu, with rates starting from AU$3,649 per person. amawaterways.com
ABOVE, LEFT Golubac fortress in Serbia © Denis Shevchuk/iStock
ABOVE, RIGHT Al Fresco restaurant on AmaMagna
OPPOSITE Inside the Church of Saint Sava in Belgrage, Serbia
