cacao ISSUE ONE
T h e C r a f t C h o c o l a te M a g a z i n e
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U NDE RSTAN D IN G THE B E A N-TO- BAR PR OCE SS Written by Robert O’Sullivan Illustrated by Anna Bazyl
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rom harvesting to wrapping, chocolate-making is an intricate and refined process that can be manipulated throughout certain stages for the purpose of achieving a particular flavour
or texture. The evolved and meticulous process from bean to bar is reflected in the unique and delicious taste that comes from an exceptional plant.
1. Harvesting
The cacao tree (Theobroma cacao) grows in tropical climates throughout the world, and has the unusual trait of having both flowers and fruit on the tree at the same time. The fruit of the tree is known as the cacao pod, which grows on the trunk and branches. Each pod ripens at a different time, so expertise is needed in choosing the right time to pick the pod. Picking is usually done with a machete, and great care is needed to ensure that the flower cushion on the tree is not damaged so that more pods can grow in the future.
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2. Fermenting After the pods are opened and the beans are exposed to oxygen, the fermentation begins. The beans and pulp may be contained in banana leaves or wooden boxes, which contain holes for excess liquid to escape. The beans are mixed or turned to enable this process and the temperature naturally raises to 40-50°C. This stage is a major factor in developing the cacao flavour and can take up to eight days, depending on the bean type.
3. Drying Following the fermentation stage, the beans contain a high level of moisture, which needs to be reduced in order to avoid overdeveloping, which can adversely affect the flavour. In most origins, cocoa beans can be sun-dried. In wetter climates, however, this is not possible so alternative methods are used. For example, in Papua New Guinea, beans are dried using open fires, giving them a distinctly smoky flavour. Once dried, the beans are then sorted and bagged, before being shipped to makers around the world. cacao | 15
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4. Roasting The next step is for chocolate-makers to roast their dried cacao beans. The roasting time and temperature will vary by bean type and quality, as well as the objectives of the chocolate-maker. In addition to being an important factor for flavour development, the roasting process also further reduces the moisture content and kills off any lurking bacteria.
5. Cracking & Winnowing Following the roasting process, the outer shell becomes thin and brittle. The beans are then cracked manually or with a machine, after which the shells can be winnowed from the bean kernels, also known as cocoa nibs. The cocoa nibs are used in the production of chocolate, whereas the antioxidant-packed shells can be used for other purposes, such as making cacao tea or even garden fertiliser. cacao  |  16
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6. Grinding & Conching These two processes are commonly combined into one with the use of a melangeur. First, the nibs are ground into a thick paste known as cocoa mass. This paste consists of both cocoa solids and cocoa butter, the natural fat of the cocoa bean. During the conching stage, some chocolate-makers add extra ingredients such as sugar, milk or vanilla. This step may take anything from two hours to two days, and the particulars of the process are crucial as they will affect the final texture and flavour.
7. Tempering This is the process of raising and lowering the temperature of the chocolate so that it is formed into the right consistency through the treatment of the crystals. Without tempering, the chocolate would be dull and crumbly, missing the tempting shine and recognisable snap of a finished chocolate bar. This is traditionally done by hand but the process can also be sped up with a tempering machine.
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Enliven Cacao: Part 1
E AT C HOCOL ATE . CU RE POVE RTY. Written by Daisy Hill Photography provided by Enliven Cacao
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he day waits for Grace to wake up. Her husband Jairo has been up since 6 am, machete in hand, weeding and hacking crops with the sun on his back. It is peak harvesting time in the mountainous rainforests just outside of Rancho Grande and the long hours spent with his blade, basket and worn-out sneakers make for hungry work. A heavy burst of Nicaraguan rain leaks inside Grace’s hut and wakes her. She is met by the sight of her four daughters, who have just returned from collecting oranges. Education has evaded them, as it did Grace. This morning, like every other, their day begins at 6.30 am and will exist within the boundaries of a few secluded huts and winding paths. From sunrise to sunset ensues the relentless task of providing food and water for more mouths than they can comfortably feed, and maintaining the home that’s too
small for the numbers that live inside it. Their lives are not yet theirs. Food is basic; their homeland of Nicaragua is one of the poorest countries in Latin America. Rice and yucca are staples, but they’re not particularly nutritious and as a result all members of the family are tired. Travel to market towns is not affordable or accessible, and their role within a farming family means that each of them must assist wherever they can to make the workers’ lives bearable. Conditions for farmers are back-breaking. Hills are steep, harvesting is demanding and all work is carried out manually. Buyers’ prices may change and drop off at any point, with no warning or reason. The technology that has long pervaded the West, making lives easier and more pleasant, is not a reality for these workers.
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Nicaraguan farming families dedicate their lives to the forest’s harvests, yet they are very much in the dark about the crop they sow. 70% of the Nicaraguan population works in agriculture, and 30% of people live in poverty. Very little understanding of the chocolate industry they so vitally power, combined with no history of forecasting, leaves farmers’ livelihoods as unpredictable as a change of the wind. This insecurity can lead to confusion, and a medley of crops being sold sporadically for less than market rate is not a rare occurrence. Many mouths to feed means hunger beats bartering, and strategy doesn’t even get a seat at the table. Corn, coffee, citrus, cacao – all priced with one’s eyes closed. It’s the equivalent of hard-working bankers clocking up 15 hours a day on Wall Street only to find an intern’s paycheque in their bank account at the end. Startlingly – but perhaps not surprisingly, given this background – according to Oxfam America, only about 3% of the price of the chocolate bar you buy in a store is received by cocoa farmers globally. Farmers in rural Nicaragua can expect to
take home around US$605.90 per year, on average*. Meanwhile, the global chocolate industry brought in annual profits of over US$80 billion (*2016 statistics). Farmers are somewhat helpless to remedy this situation, because they simply don’t know the systems that are at play in their industry, and they don’t understand the bigger picture. Often, they’ve never even experienced the taste of their own product. Of course, the bitter cacao that farmers sell at a drastically undervalued rate is nothing like the sweet taste that we have come to know as chocolate. The bean-to-bar process is a complex one; those farmers who do try to sample the fruits of their labours are likely just to taste a bitter water, like the Mayans did when they first discovered cocoa around 900 AD. All these factors mean that farmers remain in a loop of relentless work, very little money and no knowledge of the vital role they play in a worldwide chocolate phenomenon. But, fortunately for the residents of La Colonia, things are changing for the better.
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NBC News reported in 2014 that our appetite for chocolate was at an all-time high, with global demand rising by 13% from 2009 to 2014. Today that growth shows no signs of slowing. About Chocolate’s Global Chocolate Market report for 2017-2021 indicates that demand for cocoa beans is still outstripping the supply.
POVERTY GDP per capita
Despite significant economic growth over recent years, Nicaragua remains the poorest country in Central America. An estimated 30% of the population lives on less than $2 a day.
Market forces, therefore, have started to work in the farmer’s favour – but the farmers only became aware of that opportunity thanks to an outside voice. Eight voices, in fact, who collectively form one voice: Enliven Cacao, a group of businessmen and women from North America who were seeking a community to pour their efforts and resources into.
Sir Fazle Hasan Abed, winner of the 2015 World Food Prize, says: “Only by putting the poorest in charge of their own lives and destinies will absolute poverty and deprivation be removed from the face of the earth.”
Within the La Colonia community in Nicaragua, Enliven found several farmers considered to be experts in growing cacao. These are kind, resilient people surrounded by fertile soil, abundant natural resources and generations of farming experience – but an indifference towards the cacao on their doorstep.
The team behind Minnesota-based Enliven Cacao must have written their manifesto from the same hymn book. Their approach in assisting the La Colonia community has, from its very beginnings in 2015, been one of inspiring independence rather than delivering handouts.
The Enliven team began the process of building a bridge.
Lauren Bruhn from Enliven tells a tale of meeting a local guide called Moises in the early days. A tall man
Source: The World Bank 2019
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T HE FAL L A N D R IS E OF CH O C OL AT E IN GE R MANY Written by Samuel Dart Photography by Niki Nagy
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he first thing I tried at Belyzium, an artisan chocolate-maker tucked away on an unassuming corner in Berlin-Mitte, was its take on a classic 83% dark chocolate bar. The flavour was strikingly smooth, subtly fruity and surprisingly complex. Acknowledging my visible satisfaction, the shop assistant offered another sample that I found, initially, somewhat confusing. “This next piece I think you’ll quite like. It’s also 83%, yet fermented for one day less than our original 83.” This time, sure enough, a chocolate of the same percentage was ever so slightly acidic and a bit richer, with notes that lasted on the tongue far longer. The fermentation process generally takes between three and eight days and, under the right conditions, a mere 24 hours can make for a drastically altered flavour profile. As I took in the sights and smells of the store, I noticed a recurring phrase that helped to make
clearer sense of the fine-tuned nuances at play in their offerings: “tree-to-bar.” Belyzium handles all aspects of the craft operation, from growing and preparing the beans on its property in southern Belize to creating and wrapping each bar on Berlin’s Lottumstraße. It’s a meticulous process, culminating in some of the best chocolate in Europe – put forth, nevertheless, to a sometimes inattentive local audience. The shop is probably more famous outside Germany than it is among its native population. Still, those in the know about craft chocolate have certainly found their way to the shop, whose aromas waft nearly to the next U-Bahn station. The head roaster and production manager recounted to me how, every once in a while, devotees will bring mini fridges with them in order to stock up on Belyzium’s Tabu bars, which melt at room temperature (and, subsequently, in one’s
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mouth). With a long ride on a decidedly unrefrigerated train ahead of me, I opted to leave with a lowferm 83% bar instead.
“My old block in Neukölln had four third-wave coffee shops in the surrounding three streets alone, each more Instagram-friendly than the next.” Belyzium is at the forefront of a burgeoning craft chocolate scene in Germany – one that, despite a slow start in its home country, is staking out a space in the global market. While it’s becoming easier to find bean-to-bar products through a number of distributors across Berlin, there are still very few fully-fledged producers in Germany. But in a city where there is an especially high emphasis on all that is hand-crafted and organically sourced, it seems that an awakening to the world of craft chocolate is imminent. My old block in Neukölln had four third-wave coffee shops in the surrounding three streets alone, each more Instagram-friendly than the next. But, at present, Germany’s bean-to-bar production stands
considerably behind craft chocolate strongholds like the United States and the UK, with the former alone boasting 200-plus producers. Despite the relatively off-the-radar status of craft chocolate in Berlin and beyond, the Germans do, in fact, love their chocolate. The country accounts for nearly a quarter of the confectionery market in Western Europe. According to Mintel’s research team, Germans consume, per capita, nearly eight kilograms of chocolate each year. The market for chocolate is clearly massive. However, it’s mostly dominated by multinational manufacturers with seven-figure advertising budgets and a decades-long presence on grocery store shelves. Consumption habits in Germany tend toward low-percentage milk chocolate bars created in bulk by brands like Milka, Lindt and Ritter Sport. Today, nearly 80% of the chocolate sold in Germany is purchased at supermarkets and convenience stores. These large-scale trends in consumption are certainly formidable, but they also don’t necessarily lend themselves to deliberation on such details as fermentation time, cacao percentages or diverse flavour notes from around the world. Chocolate
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Switzerland
8.8
Austria
8.1
Germany
7.9
Ireland
7.9
U.K.
7.6
Sweden
6.6
Estonia
6.5
Norway
5.8
Poland
5.7
Belgium
5.6
Finland
5.4
Slovakia
5.2
The Netherlands
5.1
New Zealand
5.0
Denmark
4.9
Australia
4.9
Czech Republic
4.9
Russia
4.8
U.S.A.
4.4
France
4.3
Brazil
1.2
Japan
1.2
South Africa
0.9
China
0.1
0
5
2.5
7.5
Source: Statista 2019
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Frederick the Great was said to have, from time to time, drunk too much of the rich, thick liquid, and Goethe’s letters to his wife reveal an affinity for the bean.
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is undoubtedly a key facet of German life, yet it’s often seen as something mostly free of complexities. Ultimately, the nation’s own unique history with chocolate presents a further explanation of the impediments that stand ahead of a craft revolution. The cacao bean made its way to Europe in the early 1600s, landing first in Spain and existing mostly as a tonic prescribed as medication. In the following decades it spread to France, Belgium and what was then Germany, as a delicacy enjoyed almost exclusively by the upper classes. It was touted as, amongst other things, an effective aphrodisiac. By the early 1700s, chocolate became more commonplace and was served to those who could afford it in cafés, though nearly always in liquid form. This early version remained stubbornly expensive, due both to the high costs of shipping cacao from Central America and the continued local taxation of luxury goods. It was, nonetheless, a regular indulgence for leading Prussian and German figures; Frederick the Great was said to have drunk too much of the rich, thick liquid from time to time, and Goethe’s letters to his wife reveal an affinity for the bean.
The first place where Germans could easily obtain chocolate was a small-scale manufacturer in Hannover, furnished by Prince Wilhelm von der Lippe. The store opened in 1765 and imported its labourers from Portugal, where chocolate had already been a mainstay for decades. Soon, however, industrialisation saw chocolate start to flood across Western Europe. Steam engines and hydraulic presses allowed manufacturers to create cheaper powdered cocoa, and ultimately delivered affordable chocolate to the craving masses. With a growing collective sweet tooth and steady technological advancements, factories began to crop up throughout Germany. After the Franco-Prussian War and Germany’s 1871 reunification, the chocolate industry flourished. On the tails of an upswing in the economy – which gave consumers wider choice and saw a stark reduction in the importation of French goods, plus cheaper sugar by way of domestic farms – Germany’s standing as a chocolate producer rose, and its people demanded more and more. In Dresden, the de facto capital of German chocolate in the late 1800s with almost 600 tons of chocolate being doled out per year, regulation took hold and
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W HY F I NE CHOCOL ATE IS LOYA L TO RE AL VAN ILL A Written by Antonella Tromba Photography by Ekrem Canli & Binesh A. B.
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asty, ethical and authentic – these are among the attributes that fine chocolate-lovers ponder when considering voting for a new brand with their wallet. For self-proclaimed chocolate nerds the purchasing decision may not be that complicated, as labels usually put the differences between apparently similar ingredients within your grasp. That’s also the case for vanilla, a subtle flavour that a few speciality chocolate brands adore including in their products, but which has been widely distorted by the food industry to become something second-rate. Vanilla is an optional ingredient in chocolate, not necessary for the recipe, but added by many for a delicious extra dimension. However, the Fine Chocolate Industry Association, the Academy of Chocolate and the International Institute of Chocolate & Cacao Tasting – the trusted organisations
defining the traits to recognise fine chocolate products – only give their green light to the presence of real vanilla in chocolate. From its origins to its properties, we take a look at why vanilla has such a high reputation as a food ingredient and a particularly strong tie with chocolate. The History of Vanilla Vanilla has a long history that runs parallel to that of chocolate, its roots dating back to pre-Columbian times. The first vanilla plants are thought to have originated in modern-day Mexico, domesticated by the Totonac tribe. When the Aztecs from Mesoamerica conquered the Totonacs in the 15th century they demanded regular tributes, with vanilla among them. Vanilla pods start off as green fruit but dry up and turn black shortly after
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“The technique was developed in 1841 by an enslaved boy called Edmond Albius on Réunion Island, and it’s still used to this day.” being harvested, which is why the Aztecs called it tlilxochitl (or ‘black flower’). The cured vanilla pods were used as an aphrodisiac and a flavouring ingredient in xocolatl, a noble Aztec drink made from a mix of cocoa bean paste, ground corn, honey, vanilla and various spices. In the 16th century, the Spanish conquistadors, guided by Hernán Cortés, were the first Europeans to taste the Aztec chocolate drink. Amazed by its rich and delicious flavours, they were inspired to bring both vanilla and cacao back from the New World to the Old Continent. The Spanish also renamed it vainilla, which literally translates as “little pod.” In the 17th century, vanilla was the exclusive preserve of the European aristocracy and used primarily as an additive in drinking chocolate. Over the years the aromatic flavour of vanilla was increasingly being showcased on its own, taking
centre stage in various recipes. By the 18th century, vanilla had spread throughout Europe and the newly invented vanilla ice cream was taking France by storm. Vanilla was now in high demand as both a glamorous fragrance and flavouring ingredient that even the middle class could enjoy. To catch up with the growing demand, the French began planting the orchids within their colonies. Cultivating vanilla on Bourbon Island (now known as Réunion), French colonists noted that the flowers were not being pollinated by local insects. Belgian botanist Charles Morren was the man that discovered the reason why: the only natural pollinator of vanilla was a bee called Melipona, native only to Mexico and Central America. The shortage of natural pollinators is the main reason behind vanilla becoming the world’s most expensive food ingredient after saffron. The process of cultivating vanilla plants and producing natural extracts from their pods without these bees is strenuous and labour-intensive, requiring high levels of precision. The technique was developed in 1841 by an enslaved boy called Edmond Albius on Réunion island, and it’s still used to this day.
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CHILL I CHOCOL ATE PUD D IN G W ITH W HI P P ED COCON UT CR E AM
Recipe by Susie Encarnacion & Kat Perry Illustrated by Sarah Chand
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This recipe uses a powerful and moreish 100% chocolate bar, and is a real celebration of the diversity and versatility of chocolate. A big thank you to Makan Malaysia’s Susie and Kat for this mouthwatering dessert, inspired by the fiery flavours of their home country and lovingly created in their kitchen in Reading, England. It’s the perfect finale for a dinner party, as you can prepare it all in advance and simply garnish shortly before serving. Serves: 4 Time: 20 minutes, plus 4 hours chilling
Ingredients For the chocolate pudding:
For the topping:
- 300ml whole milk - 50g good-quality dark chocolate (we used Chocolat Madagascar 100% Cocoa), broken into small pieces -½ tsp mild chilli powder - 1 tbsp cornflour, mixed with 2 tbsp cold water - ½ tbsp maple syrup
- 100ml coconut cream - 100ml double cream - 2 tbsp maple syrup - Chocolate shavings - Minced or finely chopped fresh red chilli, seeds removed
Method Chocolate pudding
Coconut cream
1. Place the milk, chocolate and chilli powder in a saucepan and warm gently on the hob over a low heat, stirring continuously.
1. Place the coconut cream, double cream and maple syrup in a bowl and whip until light and fluffy.
2. Once the chocolate has melted, whisk in the cornflour mixture, then turn the heat up to medium and cook until it thickens to a custard-like consistency, stirring throughout. 3. Remove the pan from the heat and mix in the maple syrup. 4. Divide the mixture evenly between four glasses and cover each one with clingfilm, letting it touch the surface of the chocolate (this will prevent a skin forming on the tops of the puddings).
2. Put the bowl in the fridge and chill for at least an hour. To serve 1. Remove the clingfilm from the puddings. Spread or spoon the coconut cream on top of each one, or use a piping bag if you’ve got guests to impress. 2. Garnish by sprinkling with chocolate shavings and minced chilli to taste (or pop the two in small bowls on the table and let guests add their own).
5. Put the puddings in the fridge and leave to chill for around four hours.
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M EE T T HE MAK E R : CHOCOL ATE N AIVE
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Interview by Lukas Reinhardt Photography provided by Chocolate Naive
hocolate Naive was founded by Domantas Užpalis in 2011. Naive’s collections are well known for their unique and delicious flavours, including chocolate with porcini mushroom, chocolate with tahini, or chocolate with peanut butter. One of the company’s most recent developments has been exclusive ‘nano-lot’ bars, where they work together with cacao farmers from around
the world who grow exceptional quality beans that are not widely available. These small batch and exclusive bars highlight the diverse flavours of cacao. I had the pleasure of speaking to Domantas, where he told me how he went from IT to chocolate, and gave me his thoughts on the importance of packaging and the future of the craft chocolate industry.
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Lukas: Can you tell us where you started and how you ended up in speciality chocolate? Domantas: I started eight years ago, so it’s been a while now. I was working at an IT company for seven years, and by education, I’m a city planner, so my background isn’t in any way related to food. Then 2008 brought along the credit crunch and financial crisis, and my career stalled. So then I was a little bit lost and asked myself what should I do next. My professional career was not building up as I was expecting, but on reflection it probably was not what I wanted to do anyway. I always wanted to do something tangible, where you can touch it, transform it, sell it and get the coin in your pocket – something very physical. Once I knew that I wanted to do something creative and maybe something food-related, I had some ideas. My first business in food was actually working with dairy farmers, selling cheese, fresh milk, sour cream and products like that. But really that was just a platform for other people; I wanted to find an income structure for me, so I focused on the core idea of starting a speciality chocolate project. And in 2011 that’s what I did. I used the last of my savings from
the pre-crisis period to buy my first tonne of cocoa beans, moved to the countryside and began my chocolate career. Lukas: So why did you decide to go into chocolate, as opposed to perhaps cheese or another speciality food? Domantas: I had a muse who showed me how to eat dark chocolate, and that was a real revelation. It transformed the chocolate experience for me, and I started to look at this product from a different angle. At that time, chocolate was still mainly seen as candy rather than a speciality food, but I had an intuition that craft chocolate would take off. For me, it was quite obvious that it should follow a similar path to established speciality products such as coffee or wine. When I started, I was telling people that “in five years the chocolate industry is going to be so different and so much more established, just like speciality coffee.” And now I still tell people that “in five years the chocolate industry is going to be so different and so much more established, just like speciality coffee.” So progress has been a bit slower than I expected, but we are seeing some changes nonetheless.
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