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M Izakaya with Chef Michael Lee
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Chef Michael Lee has a long history in the hospitality industry, working in more than twenty Japanese and sushi restaurants in cities as far-flung as Chicago, Las Vegas, Texas, Los Angeles, Denver, and the Triangle. Just before Hurricane Katrina, he was living in New Orleans and visited his parents in the Triangle to avoid the storm. His parents were living in Wake Forest at the time, and the trip was meant to be temporary. He ended up meeting his wife, Yeon Ju (Kim), here and ultimately decided to call the Triangle his permanent home, and all local foodies are glad he did. Over the course of his distinguished career, Chef Lee has earned an impressive reputation as a talented, passionate, thoughtful, and hands-on restaurateur.
Michael and his wife are both natives of South Korea, and own/operate M Sushi in Cary and Durham, as well as M Tempura, M Kokko, and M Pocha, all in downtown Durham. The common theme among all six holdings in his M Restaurant group is that the menus and décor are Asianinfluenced, particularly featuring Japanese and Korean flavors, each with some type of well-imagined fusion integration – be it with local ingredients or other cuisines.
If you’ve had the delicious pleasure of dining at M Test Kitchen in Fenton, then you’ll have a good sense of what to expect from the new restaurant. M Test Kitchen opened in
2023 and was intentionally meant to be a temporary identity while he polished M Sushi next door. Following a year of successful operation for M Sushi, M Test Kitchen transitioned into its planned final form as M Izakaya.
So what exactly does Izakaya mean? Rooted in Japanese history, the term ‘izakaya’ is a fusion of ‘i’ (to stay) and ‘sakaya’ (sake shop), reflecting its historical origins as a place where customers can enjoy sake and stay for a meal. Over time, the izakaya has evolved into a vibrant hub more than simply a place to eat; they are communal experiences, bringing people together in a celebration of food, drink, and friendship.
Michael explained, “The atmosphere at Izakaya is casual, yet it has a lot of different elements of Japanese cuisine that I love. We have M Sushi on the other side, and it’s a little more elegant and secluded. It has a darker feel. We wanted to bring a little bit of excitement to this space with upbeat music and more vibrancy. The easiest way that I explain to customers and friends is just think of it as a casual Spanish tapas restaurant, but a Japanese version.”
Michael is quick to praise his team, from managers and chefs to servers and dishwashers, for the success of his restaurants. Everyone has a say when suggesting new dishes they’ve been inspired by, whether eating out at other local restaurants or while traveling. They discuss new ideas at their weekly staff meetings, agreeing on what to try next. Their take on “fusion” concepts is merely, “does it taste good?”
The menu at M Izakaya changes with the season, embedding local ingredients whenever possible. Some items are year-round staples, as removing them would surely earn the ire of his many loyal regulars. Michael’s passion for fresh, high-quality ingredients is reflected in the flavors of each dish, and the simple yet artful presentation is the final touch on every item. If you’re yearning for NYC-level Asian cuisine with a fusion leaning, M Izakaya might just become your go-to dining experience in the Triangle.
The menu consists of five parts: Sushi, then First, Second, Third, and Fourth Courses, with the last featuring dessert. Dishes are meant to be shared and coursed out, so guests have time to enjoy their dining experience to the fullest and at their leisure.
We began our meal from the Sushi menu with one of Michael’s oldest recipes, the Screaming “O” roll. This dish lives up to its name – it’s bold, indulgent, and a little cheeky. A core of shrimp tempura gives crunch and sweetness, while spicy tuna adds creamy heat. The topping of seared tuna deepens the flavor with a smoky, just-charred edge. Masago
(tiny orange roe from capelin fish) adds delicate bursts of brininess, like little pops of the sea. The house “O” sauce is M Izakaya’s secret blend, silky, spicy, and just sweet enough to tie it all together. It’s a roll that delivers heat, crunch, and umami in equal measure.
Next up was the Little Gem Salad from the First Courses. This salad is proof that restraint can be delicious. Little Gem lettuce, a petite cousin of romaine, arrives crisp and chilled. It’s dressed in red miso, a fermented soybean paste, aged longer than its white counterpart, which brings deep, savory notes with a hint of sweetness. Sesame croutons add a nutty
crunch, while the grated tofu adds a smoky, earthy richness. Light on the tongue, but far from simple.
Tataki is a Japanese preparation where fish is quickly seared on the outside but left raw at the core. In the Salmon Trout Tataki, Scottish salmon trout takes on ponzu – made with citrus, soy, and seaweed – balanced by earthy togarashi (a Japanese chili spice blend with orange peel and sesame). Tiny rice puffs give each bite a satisfying crunch, while Aji Amarillo – a Peruvian yellow chili pepper – sneaks in fruity warmth and ties Japan to South America in one plate.
Delicate and cool, the Scallop Crudo whispers rather than shouts. Scallops are lightly cured in shiro shoyu,
a pale, whitish soy sauce prized for its delicate saltiness and subtle sweetness. Yuzu tobiko – citrus-infused flying fish roe –sparkle with tiny, tart bursts. The onion aioli lends creaminess with a whisper of sharpness, while shaved radish and chives add a crisp, peppery crunch. A slick of extra virgin olive oil lends it body, rounding out the bite. It’s delicate yet layered, marrying Japanese minimalism with Mediterranean warmth.
The “Tortellini” Dumplings aren’t your Nonna’s pasta –they’re Asian dumplings dressed like Italian tortellini. Filled with a mousse of scallop and shrimp, they melt luxuriously on the tongue. The dumplings sit in dashi butter, which blends the French richness of butter with the ocean-deep savoriness of dashi broth (made from kelp and bonito flakes). A touch of truffle adds an earthy perfume that lingers. Every bite is creamy and buttery, making this one of the menu’s most decadent offerings.
At first glance, the Second Courses Loaded Tots are comfort food you think you know – golden, crispy potato tots, hot and crunchy on the outside, pillowy inside. But at M Izakaya, Chef Michael Lee reframes them through the lens of Japanese street food, borrowing the flavors and spirit
of okonomiyaki, Osaka’s beloved savory pancake. Instead of a flat pancake, here the canvas is a mound of tots, fried until audibly crisp. Blanketing the tots is a drizzle of Kewpie mayo, Japan’s cult-favorite mayonnaise made with egg yolks and rice vinegar, creamier and tangier than its American counterpart. A hint of soy sauce adds umami depth, while a generous sprinkling of furikake – a seasoning blend of seaweed, sesame seeds, dried fish, and spices – layers in salinity and nutty crunch. The dish comes alive when topped with wisps of smoked bonito flakes (katsuobushi). Paper-thin and impossibly light, the flakes flutter and curl with the heat of the tots, as if they’re dancing, a mesmerizing effect that has captivated diners in izakayas and ramen shops for decades. The result is remarkably craveable: the familiar comfort of tater tots made electric with the umami-rich, sweet-savory balance of Japanese bar food.
Traditionally Cantonese, char siu is a sweet and savory barbecued pork dish. Michael’s Char Siu features Spanish Ibérico pork jowl, one of his favorite cuts of meat, and is renowned for its marbling and rich flavor. The pork is caramelized over charcoal, resulting in a smoky crust that yields to silky-soft fat. Served with pillowy steamed buns and crisp julienned Chinese leeks, diners build their own bites. A yuzu-spiked sriracha adds citrus brightness to the classic chili kick. The result: East meets West in one of the restaurant’s most memorable plates.
The classic open-faced Pork & Shrimp Shumai are reimagined with a mousse-like filling of pork and shrimp, wrapped in delicate Shanghai dumplings. A garlic chili vinaigrette, sharper and more aromatic than traditional soy dipping sauces, adds tang, spice, and fragrance, butting through the richness without overwhelming it. Shumai may be a dim sum staple, but here, they’re presented with an izakaya-style boldness.
Korean Fried Chicken (KFC) is famous for its exceptionally crisp skin, thanks to a unique twice-frying technique. M Izakaya’s Garlic Soy KFC Wings are coated in a sweet
and sticky garlic soy glaze, spiked with fried chili peppers for smokiness. Pickled daikon – cool, crisp, and slightly sour –resets the palate between bites and nods to traditional Korean accompaniments. It’s messy, craveable, and impossible to stop eating.
Up next from Third Courses was the X.O. Fried Rice, elevated to luxury status. XO sauce (a Hong Kong creation named after “Extra Old” cognac for its prestige) is made from dried scallops, shrimp, and chilies. It lends depth, umami, and a subtle smokiness to the dish. Sweet kani crab adds ocean delicacy, while Benton’s bacon (a cult favorite from Tennessee) brings bold, campfire smokiness. Fresno chili adds a fresh, fruity heat, and a soft-poached egg melts into the rice, coating every grain in silken richness. Each forkful
is indulgent and layered, hitting sweet, salty, smoky, and spicy all at once.
Their Miso Sea Bass was simply perfection. A thick fillet of Mero (Patagonian toothfish, often marketed as Chilean sea bass) is marinated in Saikyo miso, a sweeter, golden miso from Kyoto prized for its mildness. Grilled until caramelized, the fish is smoky yet buttery, served with asparagus kissed by kimchi spice for a fermented tang. The dish is presented
under a cloche of smoke, which lifts at the table in a dramatic flourish as the lid is removed – perfuming the air with aromas of fire and sea.
The Duck with “Duck Sauce” walks a tightrope between French refinement and Asian flair. The Orvia French duck breast is seared to a mahogany crust, rosy and tender inside. Alongside it, the confit leg offers a darker, richer contrast. The base is a sweet potato–kohlrabi hash, earthy yet subtly sweet. Apricot duck sauce nods to the American-style Chinese condiment but reimagined here with real fruit, balanced by Thai basil for herbal freshness, lush and tangy. The duck is a layered dish where every bite hits sweet, savory, and aromatic notes.
Spanish octopus, when done right, is tender with just a whisper of chew, and this version of Grilled Octopus nails it. Charred from the grill, it carries smoky edges that contrast with its gentle brininess. Underneath, creamy cannellini beans are spiced with curry, an unexpected yet brilliant pairing that grounds the dish with warmth. A dusting of
roasted cumin powder adds a nutty, toasty aroma. It’s a welltraveled dish: Spain’s octopus, Italy’s beans, India’s curry, all tied together on one plate.
On to dessert and Michael’s take on Matcha Basque Cheesecake. Basque cheesecake is famous for its deeply browned, “burnt” top that hides a creamy, almost custardy center. M Izakaya’s version is crustless and infused with matcha, giving it grassy, faintly bitter notes that balance the richness. A drizzle of raspberry coulis brightens the
palate with tart fruitiness. Lighter and silkier than a New York–style cheesecake, it feels both indulgent and refreshing.
Lastly, we tried the single-serving Quenelle of Chocolate A quenelle is a smooth, oval-shaped scoop made using two spoons. Here, it’s a pure, intense bite of dark chocolate, set on a bed of crumbled hazelnuts. A drizzle of extra virgin olive oil heightens the chocolate’s fruitiness with a delicate, grassy, peppery flavor. A sprinkle of flaky Maldon salt from England cracks on the tongue, highlighting both sweet and briny notes. It’s minimalist, but like all good desserts, it lingers on the palate long after the last bite.
Just as Chef Michael Lee’s food straddles the line between precision and playfulness, the drinks list at M Izakaya carries that same spirit – thoughtful, adventurous, and beautifully balanced.
At M Izakaya, the drink list mirrors Chef Michael Lee’s philosophy – rooted in Japanese craft but designed for discovery. The sake program feels like a journey through flavor, organized by character rather than complexity: Crisp & Refreshing, Fruity & Floral, Savory & Complex, Unique & Nigori, and Chef’s Choice for the truly curious.
The Nigori category – literally meaning “cloudy” –highlights unfiltered sakes that retain rice sediment, giving them a soft, milky appearance and a gentle sweetness. These pair beautifully with spicy or fried dishes, their texture cushioning the palate between bites.
Each category invites exploration, with single servings starting at $8 and full bottles beginning around $42. From the sake menu, we sampled the Bunraku Junmai Yamahai (“Forgotten Japanese Soul”), Azure Ginjo “Sea Water,” and
the Sayuri Junmai Nigori. The Bunraku offered rich, earthy depth with notes of toasted rice and chestnut, brewed in the traditional yamahai style for a bold, umami-driven finish. The Azure was crisp and modern, brewed with desalinated deep-sea water from Japan’s Hyogo Prefecture, giving it a clean minerality and delicate hints of melon and pear. And the Sayuri was a lightly sweet, creamy unfiltered sake with delicate notes of cherry blossom and rice, smooth and gently clouded for a soft, refreshing finish.
For those seeking the pinnacle, there’s the Born “Chogin” Junmai Daiginjo, a premium sake from Fukui Prefecture renowned for its refinement and clarity. Brewed with Yamada Nishiki rice polished down to a delicate core, it offers layers of white pear, melon, and a whisper of anise – the kind of sake that feels more like a meditation than a drink, smooth and
lingering with each sip.
Whether gently warmed to coax out umami depth or served chilled to spotlight clean, floral aromatics, sake here is treated with reverence but never pretension. The well-trained waitstaff make excellent guides, equally adept at suggesting sake or wine pairings that bring the meal into perfect balance.
For those who prefer grapes over rice, M Izakaya’s wine list is impressively cosmopolitan – spanning crisp whites, lush reds, and elegant sparklings, with offerings from France, Italy, Australia, Napa Valley, New York, and Virginia. The concise beer selection stays on theme, offering both Japanese staples and local craft brews that complement the menu’s savory and smoky notes.
At M Izakaya, every pour – whether it’s sake, wine, or beer – feels intentional, reinforcing the restaurant’s blend of sophistication, approachability, and quiet artistry.
Gather your favorite people, order a round of sake, and trust the menu – every plate tells its own story of intention, creativity, and heart in equal measure. Whatever you choose, you’ll find yourself in the midst of one of the Triangle’s most memorable dining experiences. M Izakaya doesn’t just deliver; it delights.
4 Fenton Main Street, Suite 120-B Cary, NC 27511 (shared entrance with M Sushi) 919.729.5662
https://mizakaya.m-restaurants.com
Founded in 2005, the Downtowner is lifestyle magazine with a focus on
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Notes: Slightly loud noise level, large outdoor seating area, nearby free parking lots.
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so much. Through it all, I’ve remained proud of the legacy we’ve built and grateful that we were among the first to recognize downtown Raleigh’s potential long before the rest of the world caught on.
Our final issue will publish before the end of the year, celebrating two decades of storytelling and community connection. We’ll revisit a few favorite articles, share milestones, and — most importantly — thank the people and businesses who made this journey possible.
with articles written by
advertiser for this next venture? Reach out at publisher at welovedowntown dot com or call 919.828.8000 to explore how your business can benefit from partnering with us. We’re also calling all storytellers and sales professionals who want to help champion our community’s innovators, artists, entrepreneurs, and nonprofit leaders. If that’s you, drop me a note at writers at welovedowntown dot com and tell us a bit about yourself — let’s collaborate.
authors and photos by local
For the past 20 years, Triangle Downtowner Magazine has been a voice for downtown Raleigh and the greater Triangle area. We’ve shared thousands of stories about the people, places, events, and businesses that give our community its spark.
When we launched the Downtowner back in 2005, there were only two other lifestyle publications in the region. Today, there are more than 20 across the Triangle. Some do a wonderful job highlighting our community — others, not
We’d love to feature your business in this special edition. In the spirit of community, we’re following in the footsteps of A Place at the Table with a Pay-What-YouCan advertising model. Check out our media kit online, then contact us for a quick chat about how we can highlight your business — and yes, we’ll save you a few copies to keep. Visit https://bit.ly/TDM-mediakit-2025 or scan the QR code to access our media kit.
It’s been an incredible two decades sharing Raleigh’s story with you. Together, let’s make sure the next chapter is even more inspiring.
Cheers,
While the Downtowner is winding down, there’s exciting news ahead: we’re working on a new business publication launching in 2026, dedicated to spotlighting locally owned small and midsized businesses. Expect in-depth interviews, entrepreneurial stories, and insights that matter to those who make our region thrive.
Want to reach more than 100,000 business readers each month? Interested in coming aboard as a sponsor or
Crash S. Gregg Publisher, Triangle Downtowner Magazine (919.828.8000) and Global Real Estate Advisor, Sotheby’s • 919.828.8888
I proudly donate 10% of my listing commissions to my clients’ favorite local charities. I’d be honored to work with you, so let’s pay it forward together. Connect with me on LinkedIn at @crashgregg.
The most fun team in hockey. The loudest house in the NHL. A perennial contender for the Stanley Cup.
The last seven seasons have been a heck of a ride for the Carolina Hurricanes. Owner Tom Dundon purchased the franchise in late 2017, former Canes player Rod Brind’Amour was brought on as head coach just a handful of months later, the team made seven straight playoff appearances (including three trips to the Eastern Conference Finals), annihilated the Washington Capitals at the 2023 Stadium Series game and finished the most recent season with an average attendance of 18,795 fans filling the seats at Lenovo Center (100.5% of the arena›s capacity as the team opened up standing-room-only admissions).
After 117 straight sellout games, and with the puck dropping on the team’s 28th season in NC earlier this month (Oct. 9 vs. New Jersey), this new era of Canes hockey has made one thing loud and clear: Raleigh is a hockey town.
Expectations are high again for the 2025-2026 season. Coming off another trip to the Eastern Conference Finals last year, much of the Canes’ core roster returns to the ice this season (forwards Sebastian Aho, Seth Jarvis and Andrei Svechnikov, plus defensemen Jacob Slavin and Alexander Nikishin, are among the fan favorites and best-selling jerseys), and 2021 draft pick Jackson Blake is back for his second full season in the big leagues. But don’t just take it
from us: ESPN has picked the Canes to win the Eastern Conference this season.
How do I get tickets?
Individual game tickets for Carolina Hurricanes games can be purchased online through Ticketmaster, or at the box office at Lenovo Center (open Tues.-Thurs., 10am-4pm; also open on event days). Ticket prices vary but start at approximately $30.
https://www.nhl.com/hurricanes/tickets/ individual-game-tickets
Where is Lenovo Center?
Lenovo Center is located at 1400 Edwards Mill Rd. in Raleigh, about 6.5 miles from downtown Raleigh (15-20 minutes by car in normal traffic, but a lot longer during game times). Most fans arrive at Lenovo Center by car or rideshare. The cost to park at Lenovo Center is $45 (card only), or $32 if you purchase your parking in advance (add parking when completing your ticket purchase, or purchase separately later through ParkWhiz, https://www.parkwhiz.com/pnc-arena-parking-3/ ). Rideshare services have a dedicated drop-off and pick-up zone located at Gate C off Trinity Rd. (Carter-Finley
Stadium Gate C is the named entrance location on Google Maps).
I also hear there’s…tailgating? For hockey?
Yes – this is the South, after all – so good weather means a good time inside and outside the arena.
You’ll find tents, tailgaters, beer, barbecue, corn hole, street hockey, music and more happening in the parking lots beginning three hours prior to puck drop. Tables, chairs, grills, coolers and more are all allowed, though you need to be mindful of leaving other parking spots clear. If you’re coming from out of town and can’t bring your own setup, no worries, it doesn’t take much to make new friends (though it does help if you bring your own alcohol). Note that Lenovo Center doors open one hour before game time for weeknight games and 90 minutes before game time on Saturdays and Sundays.
Is there any good food sold during Canes games at Lenovo Center?
Yes! Barbecue, nachos, pizza, and much more (even specialty coffee). Much of the food at Lenovo Center is served up by Raleigh area restaurants: Alpaca Peruvian Chicken, The BBQ Lab, Gonza Tacos y Tequila, Buffalo Brothers Pizza & Wing Co., Two Roosters and others.
Where can I watch the game if I can’t make it in person? Some favorite sports bars in the Raleigh area:
• Woody’s at City Market (downtown Raleigh)
• My Way Tavern (downtown Raleigh)
• Spots & Social (Cary›s Fenton district)
• Players Retreat (Hillsborough St., near downtown Raleigh)
• Tobacco Road Sports Cafe and Brewery (downtown Raleigh)
• And The Local – opened in 2024 directly across from Lenovo Center in the former Backyard Bistro space – is an elevated sports bar that remains the closest restaurant to the action (plus offers tailgate and parking packages).
For more info on the Canes, visit www.nhl.com/hurricanes.
Portions of this article and images originally appeared on the visitRaleigh.com website and are featured here through a collaborative partnership with Visit Raleigh and Triangle Downtowner. The Greater Raleigh Convention and Visitors Bureau (aka Visit Raleigh) is the official and accredited destination marketing organization for all of Wake County. For more things to do in the Raleigh area, check out www.visitraleigh.com
