
Course Introduction
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Course Introduction
Physical Oceanography explores the fundamental physical processes that govern the behavior and dynamics of the worlds oceans. The course covers topics such as the structure and properties of seawater, ocean circulation patterns, heat and energy transfer, tides, waves, and the interactions between the ocean and atmosphere. Students will develop a scientific understanding of how physical principles like fluid dynamics, thermodynamics, and conservation laws explain ocean phenomena and their impact on global climate. The course integrates theoretical concepts with real-world observations and introduces relevant tools and techniques used in modern oceanographic research.
Recommended Textbook Essentials of Oceanography 6th Edition by Tom S. Garrison
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15 Chapters
675 Verified Questions
675 Flashcards
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Q1) Marine science draws on information from disciplines of geology, biology, chemistry, and physics.
A)True
B)False
Answer: True
Q2) Scientific hypotheses are never revised or updated.
A)True
B)False
Answer: False
Q3) Discuss the early atmosphere and how it could have lead to the evolution of life on Earth.
Answer: The Earth's atmosphere formed as hot gases escaped from deep within the planet. This early atmosphere included gases such as carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, methane and ammonia (note that molecular oxygen was absent in the atmosphere until about 2.2 billion years ago). Experiments have shown that organic molecules necessary for life could have formed as the dissolved compounds in the atmosphere were exposed to light, heat and electrical sparks. These energized mixtures can produce simple sugars and amino acids, proteins and nucleotides - all biologically important molecules.
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Sample Questions
Q1) The Portuguese explorer who first attempted to circumnavigate the world in the early 1500's was:
A) Magellan.
B) Forbes.
C) Thompson.
D) Cook.
Answer: A
Q2) Which of the following voyages would qualify as the first 100 percent pure scientific oceanographic expedition?
A) Columbus' 1496 trip
B) the Challenger expedition
C) Benjamin Franklin's first voyage across the Atlantic to take up his post as American Ambassador to France
D) Captain Cook's voyage to Tahiti in the ship Endeavour
Answer: B
Q3) A chronometer is a timepiece that can be used to determine longitude.
A)True
B)False
Answer: True
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Q1) Are the Hawaiian Islands moving? If yes, why, how fast, and in what direction?
Answer: The Hawaiian Islands are formed by volcanic activity in the middle of the pacific plat and are moving at a rate of about 8 cm per year. A hot spot is a surface expression of a stationary high temperature plume that melts the crust and forms a volcano over the hot spot. Because the Pacific Plate is moving, the volcanic island is carried away from the source of origin. Over millions of years, a volcanic island chain is formed. The Hawaiian Islands and the Emperor seamounts is a famous assembly line chain of Islands that represent about 70 million years of plate movement.
Q2) The youngest seafloor rocks are found:
A) nearest the continental slopes.
B) near the rift valleys of the mid-ocean ridges.
C) beneath the deep sea trenches.
D) evenly distributed over the ocean basins.
Answer: B
Q3) Density is a measure of relative heaviness and is defined as mass per unit volume.
A)True
B)False
Answer: True
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Q1) Abyssal hills are small extinct volcanoes commonly associated with:
A) seafloor spreading.
B) convergent zones.
C) active continental margins.
D) continental shelves.
Q2) Active continental margins are located:
A) along the east coast of the United States.
B) along the east coast of South America.
C) on the west coasts of both North and South America.
D) all around Africa.
Q3) The leading edge of a moving continental crustal plate is most likely to exhibit features associated with:
A) frequent earthquake activity.
B) active continental margins.
C) widespread volcanism.
D) passive continental margins.
Q4) Continental shelves can be made of either granite crust, basalt crust or both.
A)True
B)False
Q5) What is a submarine canyon and how are they formed?
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Q1) Carbonate sediments are rare in deep sea sediments because:
A) the organisms providing shells do not live in the deep sea.
B) the abundance of muds and clays cover the carbonate shells.
C) the carbonate shells are dissolved in deep water.
D) the organisms do not live beyond the edge of the continental shelf.
Q2) Scientists can derive all of the following types of information from observing deep ocean cores EXCEPT:
A) how much light penetrates the ocean
B) the presence or absence of mineral resources
C) historical water temperatures
D) ancient current patterns.
Q3) Clays are the coarsest and most easily transported of the terrigenous sediments.
A)True
B)False
Q4) Which of the following is of organic origin; i.e., made by organisms?
A) terrigenous sediments
B) biogenous sediments
C) hydrogenous (or authigenic) sediments
D) cosmogenous sediments.
Q5) What is the origin of manganese nodules?
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Q1) The salinity of seawater is a measure of the amount of sodium and chloride in a water sample.
A)True
B)False
Q2) Frozen water is more dense than liquid water.
A)True
B)False
Q3) The salinity of the ocean, at the present time, seems to be:
A) increasing due to evaporation as the Earth warms up.
B) decreasing due to several years of excessive rainfall.
C) increasing due to pollution.
D) in equilibrium, with dissolved components entering equal to dissolved components leaving.
Q4) The amount of oxygen that seawater can hold in solution will be greater:
A) in colder water.
B) in warmer water.
C) in water with a higher salinity.
D) in water with less pressure and density.
Q5) Describe how carbon dioxide acts as a buffer in seawater.
Q6) What is meant by the mixing time of the ocean?
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Q1) The Coriolis effect causes objects moving in the northern hemisphere to veer off course:
A) to the right, or clockwise when viewed from above.
B) to the left, or counterclockwise when viewed from above.
C) in an upward direction.
D) in a downward direction.
Q2) Explain how the relationship between the atmosphere and the ocean affects weather and climate.
Q3) Hurricanes are most common off the coast of Australia.
A)True
B)False
Q4) Tropical cyclones are also called:
A) willi-willis.
B) typhoons.
C) hurricanes.
D) all of these
Q5) The change in the angle of the sun with latitude does not influence heating at Earth's surface.
A)True
B)False

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Q1) The Gulf Stream is a current that runs south along the eastern coast of the United States.
A)True
B)False
Q2) Which ocean surface current transports the greatest volume of water?
A) The Kuroshio (or Japan) Current
B) The North Equatorial Current in the Pacific
C) The South Equatorial Current in the Pacific
D) The Antarctic Circumpolar Current
Q3) Which of the following is NOT an eastern boundary current?
A) Canary Current
B) Benguela Current
C) Gulf Stream
D) West Australian Current
Q4) Thermohaline circulation is responsible for large-scale movements of ocean water and depends on both the salinity and the temperature of water.
A)True
B)False
Q5) What is upwelling and why is it important for biological productivity?
Q6) What is ENSO?
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Q1) Describe how a wave breaks on the shore as it transitions from a deep-water wave to a shallow-water wave.
Q2) The distance measured from trough to trough of a wave is:
A) the wavelength.
B) the wave height.
C) the wave period.
D) the orbit.
Q3) Wave reflection causes interference in the form of vertical oscillations that are called standing waves.
A)True
B)False
Q4) Tsunami or seismic sea waves are generated by:
A) storms at sea.
B) tidal currents in the open sea.
C) breaking internal waves.
D) coastal or submarine earthquakes.
Q5) The energy that causes ocean waves to form is called a disturbing force.
A)True
B)False
Q6) What is fetch and how does it influence wind wave development?
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Q1) Tides are shallow-water waves. Explain this statement.
Q2) When the sun and moon are in a line with the Earth, the:
A) gravitational attraction will be less.
B) difference between high and low tides will be minimal.
C) arrival of high tide will be delayed.
D) highest high and lowest low tides will occur.
Q3) The height of the ocean averaged over a few years' time is called:
A) mean high water.
B) mean low water.
C) tidal datum.
D) mean sea level.
Q4) The longest of all ocean waves are called:
A) tsunami.
B) tides.
C) storm surge.
D) wind wave.
Q5) Tidal friction is gradually slowing Earth's rotation.
A)True
B)False
Q6) Explain the relative influence of the sun and the moon on tides.
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Q1) The variation in sea level that can be measured over the world ocean is called:
A) erosional change.
B) tectonic change.
C) dynamic change.
D) eustatic change.
Q2) Depositional coasts are growing because of sediment accumulation or the action of living organisms.
A)True
B)False
Q3) The present shorelines of the world are considered to be:
A) geologically stable zones separating land and sea.
B) features of great geological antiquity.
C) a dynamic environment affected by both long-term and short-term cycles.
D) that part of the marine environment most resistant to change.
Q4) A(n) ____ is a bridge of sediment that connects sea islands.
A) inlet.
B) tombolo.
C) estuary.
D) delta.
Q5) Define the term coast and describe the factors that shape coastlines.
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Q1) Though it is difficult to generalize for the ocean as a whole, the bottom of the euphotic zone is about ____ meters (feet) in mid-latitudes.
A) 20 meters (66 feet)
B) 40 meters (130 feet)
C) 70 meters (230 feet)
D) 80 meters (265 feet)
Q2) Scientists can observe primary productivity in the ocean from space by measuring the ____.
A) temperature of the surface water.
B) depth of the euphotic zone.
C) amount of chlorophyll in surface waters.
D) salinity of surface waters.
Q3) The aphotic zone is the upper layer of the ocean where there is enough light for photosynthesis and vision.
A)True
B)False
Q4) Describe how energy enters biological ecosystems in the ocean.
Q5) Why is evolution important in the study of the ocean?
Q6) What is natural selection and how can it explain the diversity of life on Earth?
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Q1) Define marine community and describe the different trophic levels or ecological roles organisms may fill. What factors vary in marine communities that explain why they may change over time?
Q2) Which of the following groups of animals includes only pinnipeds?
A) dolphins, whales and manatees
B) seals, sea lions and walruses
C) sea lions, sea cows and dugongs
D) walruses, polar bears and otters
Q3) Explain the properties of water that have led to the evolution of a "torpedo" shaped body in most open water fish.
Q4) Organisms such as diatoms or copepods that spend their entire life cycle as plankton are called:
A) nanoplankton.
B) meroplankton.
C) holoplankton.
D) zooplankton.
Q5) Explain why phytoplankton is critical to all of life on Earth.
Q6) Sharks have skeletons made of cartilage, not bone.
A)True
B)False

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Q1) The most common pattern for benthic organism distributions is:
A) clumped distribution.
B) negative binomial distribution.
C) random distribution.
D) uniform distribution.
Q2) Life in productive tropical reefs is characterized by:
A) extreme competition for food, territory, and reproductive opportunities.
B) very few species, but large numbers of each species.
C) large adults in each species that reproduce late in life.
D) organisms with extremely long lifespans.
Q3) A physical challenge that high-intertidal organisms must adapt to is:
A) chemosynthesis.
B) zonation.
C) osmotic pressure.
D) desiccation.
Q4) What is an atoll? Describe the steps that occur in the formation of an atoll.
Q5) Estuaries are nutrient rich environments that foster very high biodiversity.
A)True
B)False
Q6) Is the distribution of benthic organisms random? Explain why or why not.
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Q1) With current climate change trends, is there any evidence that the ocean environment is changing as a result of increased greenhouse gases? Explain why or why not.
Q2) All of the following changes in ocean conditions are expected to occur if current trends in climate change continue EXCEPT:
A) increase in anoxic zones (i.e. dead zones).
B) decrease in the pH of seawater.
C) increase in sea surface temperatures.
D) decrease in the intensity of El Nino events.
Q3) In terms of the volume of oil spilled and subsequent environmental damage, the wreck of the tanker Exxon Valdez was the worst tanker accident in history.
A)True
B)False
Q4) The most dangerous threat to the marine environment, overall, is probably:
A) human overpopulation.
B) refined oil spills.
C) solid waste and synthetic pesticides.
D) excessive greenhouse heating.
Q5) Define "Bycatch" and explain how it is damaging to marine populations.
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