001
/seduction issue/
spring-summer 2019
illustration by Diana Loseva
Publisher&editor in chief Irina Rusinovich Art director/designer Kristina Moskaleva Publishing editor/writer Yulia Kryshevich Contributors Marat Mukhonkin Natasha Gorkaya Anna Chernenko Shuhrat Yusopoff Julia Svyatchenko Alena Lavdovskaya Eddie Tuvich Hannah Sobol Jennifer Milleder Katja Hof Miguel Maldonado Erdem Akkaya Anna Gorodnitsya Anastasiya Vavina Alexandra Richter Nadejda Weiland Veronika Konitzer Tonya Matyu Lorena Bohn Katerina Terekhova Vera Kulikova Emil Emirveliev Katya Warped Anna Istomina Tatyana Kostrova Inna Rothschild Alina Gross Frank Casselmann Nona van de Peer Jana Froehlich Lanka Nguyen Alwin Maigler
/on
cover/
Ksenia Lukash Photographer Marat Mukhonkin Style Natasha Gorkaya Make Up Anna Chernenko Production Yulia Sviachenko Location VOX Studios MOSCOW
For more information please contact hello@puprlehazemag.com www.purplehazemag.com © All material in this issue is exclusive to PURPLEHAZE MAGAZINE and may not be reproduced without prior written consent. © All copyright remains with the contributors.
6
1
art section
18 alena lavdovskaya / p e r s o n a l i t y / 25 fille de l’or / p h o t o s t o r y /
↓ 32 allan banford
/interview/
39 duality / p h o t o s t o r y / 44 marlena machnio / p e r s o n a l i t y /
8
2
fashion section
55 city streets / e d i t o r i a l /
↓ 62 how fashion changed in the 20 century / h i s t o r i c a l
note/
while choosing your outfit it was crucial to show your belonging to a definite social stratum, which would be as good as saying I agree with all canons and traditions 78 butterfly life / p h o t o s t o r y / 98 patrick hellmann / p e r s o n a l i t y / 104 black beauty / p h o t o s t o r y / 112 ellen von unwerth / p e r s o n a l i t y / 117 fashion destination / e d i t o r i a l /
↑ 128 kirill mintsev purplehaze /seduction issue/
9
/interview/
3
*seduction section
134 girls legacy / e d i t o r i a l / 147 blind date / p h o t o s t o r y /
↓ 154 dmitry chapala
/interview/
160 cosmo draft / e d i t o r i a l / 171 silent love / e d i t o r i a l /
↓ 176 seduction in art:
paintings that tempted the world /historical
note/
how dare an artist depict a prostitute and be proud of it?! The scandalous masterpiece “Olympia” was created by the French artist Edouard Manet contents
10
↓ 190
set.3 cigarette / p h o t o s t o r y /
196 olga kornileva / p e r s o n a l i t y / 200 art project by alena lavdovskaya and edward tuvich / p h o t o s t o r y /
212 contacts 214 next issue
purplehaze /seduction issue/
11
editor's note To name the next theme seduction came to me spontaneously. Mainly because if you look close enough, you will notice that almost everything is about seduction. It is not necessary in sexual terms, but by tapping into someone's emotions. I, for example, always let myself be seduced by food & drinks, although my New Year resolution for 2019 was to drop weight by 10 kg! The thing is that seduction always comes as a slight hint at fulfilling our wishes — the slighter the hint is, the more graceful it looks. Nevertheless, the goal is satisfaction of our basic needs (you see, there’s no escape from Maslow's hierarchy). Actually, does anybody want to satisfy one's needs at once? I don't think so. Tension is a great part of the play. Staying hungry for some time brings inspiration, not taking it literally. You know, it's a case when the process is more important than the result. To bring this to a point, seduction seems to be quite a multifaceted subject. And I wonder what you think about it. I would like our contributors to share their visions of seduction through means of photography, fashion and art. What is it in your view, how does it feel like? Let us be surprised! Love, Irina ■
12
Miguel Maldonado / s t y l i s t /
Natasha Gorkaya / s t y l i s t /
Alina Gross / p h o t o g r a p h e r /
@miguelmaldonadostylist
@gorkaya_natasha
@alina.gross
/what
is
seduction
for
you?/
/what
is
seduction
for
you?/
Seduction for me is to show a beauty that is not visible to all eyes … but only to those eyes that can see that kind of beauty.
Seduction — is Art. Seduction is a Woman, a woman of art. To explain, I need to quote Bukowski: “God or somebody keeps creating women and tossing them out on the streets, and this one's ass is too big and that one’s tits are too small, and this one is mad and that one is crazy and that one is a religionist and that one reads tea leaves and this one can’t control her farts, and that one has this big nose, and that one has boney legs … But now and then, a woman walks up, full blossom, a woman just bursting out of her dress … a sex creature, a curse, the end of it all”. My inspiration comes from observing people, different, most often unfashionable people. I capture details, sometimes ridiculous, but directing to a new thought and approach.
contributers
14
/what
is
seduction
for
you?/
In the photo story “Blind Date” I asked myself what arouses me most, if it is a real body, a fantasy of this body and what this body does to me? I think, the date starts in the head and therefore the story shows the preparation for a date that takes place before the seduction itself. The sexual act is suggested in the still life with two strawberries in a champagne glass.
Marat Mukhonkin / p h o t o g r a p h e r /
Hannah Sobol / f a s h i o n
@maratmukhonkin
@hannahsobol
/what
is
seduction
for
you?/
/what
is
photographer/
Nadejda Weiland / s t y l i s t / @nadezhda_weiland
seduction
for
you?/
For me seduction is probably a feature, not a condition, there is no definition of seduction, I'm of course a visual and I am dragged away of beautiful faces and bodies, but this is not enough, if a beautiful body doesn’t have a beautiful soul, it's like idle ammunition, Bams. … and deaf silence. And if it is true and alive, then Bams and you mimic, swim, dissolve … probably this is what defines seduction magic for me.
Something that attracts in a sensual way. There is a quiet beauty in the notion of seduction.
purplehaze /seduction issue/
15
/what
is
seduction
for
you?/
Seduction and Youth — these are the words that complement each other. For the search for inspiration for this shoot, my intuition sent me to the history of ancient Greece, where I found a detailed description of the seducer of those times, Hetera. Hetera is an educated unmarried woman who led a free and independent lifestyle. The men spent time in a company with Heteras for entertaining conversations, songs, dances, enjoying the aristocratic manners of the girls. It was this image that served as the inspiration for creating bows and shooting moods. Young, smart, beautiful, stylishly dressed girl, who accompanies a man on a business trip.
/marlena machnio/
“my creative activity is based on the need to combine fashion with art. I can not imagine mylife without browsing beautifully designed magazines with the smell of printing ink. They inspire me in terms of visual content and the structure of paper. I consciously use the way ofcutting out elements�
art section
alena lavdov skaya
/personality/
Text
Olga
Vostokova
Photo
Eddie
/fashion
i l l u s t r a t o r / Alena Lavdovskaya is a contemporary
fashion illustrator and artist, founder and art director of a unique creative studio producing content for fashion retail business — Fashion Illustration Studio. Among Alena's clients such renowned brands and magazines as Guerlain, Dior, Chanel, Lancome, Estee Lauder, Mercury Russia, she also draws for Vogue, Bazaar, Elle, Numero etc.
Tuvich
These photos and snapshots capture process of shooting a video “Making of Guerlain” that follows Alena’s collaboration with Guerlain and is timed to the release of the limited edition of #myrougeG lipsticks with hand-painted cases, design created by Fashion Illustration Studio. This is the first time in Russia a fashion illustrator creates an official illustrative campaign with a worldwide known brand. Beside the lipstick cases within this collaboration Alena's created illustrations for Vogue Russia printed edition, illustrations for Guerlain social networks, designed prints for t-shirts and iphone cases, collaborated with bloggers.
At the age of 17 Alena was granted a scholarship to study Future Leaders Exchange Program in California. Afterwards she was admitted to NABA, Milan, to become a fashion designer but there she realized that fashion illustration is a certain stand-alone profession and that was exactly what Alena felt like tending to most. This just turned her whole world upside down and set the course for the rest of her life. Alena believes that the main difference between fashion illustrator and fashion designer is that the latter designs clothes, has a feeling and understand-
Alena prefers live drawing and engages professional models to pose for her illustrations, like grand masters of the past like Rene Gruau and Antonio Lopes used to work. Alena's biggest inspiration are people who dare to do what they want to as professionals, who have courage and thrill to dream big and do even bigger. Such personalities as Rene Gruau, Tony Viramontes, Pietro Fornazetti, Andy Warhal, Miuccia Prada, Steven Meisel, Dries van Noten, Damien Hirst. /f a c t
one/
/f a c t
two/
Alena was born in Tbilisi, Georgia, in an artistic family and as a child used to spend time at theatre — behind the scenes — where she watched how sketches of clothes and puppets became costumes and decorations. Her parents’ house was abundant of art books and she was allowed to paint on the walls being encouraged to express herself.
purplehaze /seduction issue/
19
ing for material, shape and cut, yet he doesn't have to be good at drawing, he has to produce a cool collection. While an illustrator catches the image, transforms it with his or her unique artistic perception to give it a visual realization. The great maitres of the past like Christian Dior mastered a “combo” — created fine art being brilliant fashion designers.
art section
illustration by alena lavdovskaya → special for purplehaze magazine
alena lavdovskaya
20
personality
purplehaze /seduction issue/
21
art section