Iran: Secrets of an Empire APR 24 – MAY 12, 2019
Minarets of Qom in Iran
People with a passion for travel Wheel & Anchor is a community of Canadian travellers, for those who value the occasional bottle of wine, the
camaraderie
of
traveling
with
friends, and both seeing the world and experiencing it. It’s not just about where we go, but who goes with us along the way.
2
FOUNDER’S NOTE
“To see the Persia of poets and painters, hiding in plain sight behind the much-maligned Iran of our newspaper headlines, would be my fondest wish.” – Pico Iyer, novelist and travel writer I think that Iran is probably one of the least
In researching the itinerary for this program and
What secrets are hiding beside the colossal remnants
understood countries in the world, certainly to
in particular in reviewing the security situation, I
of the Persian empire, buried in the desert sands?
those of us in the west. I am thrilled to present this
realized that the reality of life there is a far cry from
program which will enable our members to gain
what we have been presented with in the Western
I have selected my good friend Aura, who has a
their own perspective on this ancient civilisation and
media in recent years. I can certainly say that Wheel
background in Middle Eastern studies, to host this
modern nation-state.
& Anchor would not be going if it weren’t safe! I invite
tour. Between her warm and friendly personality and
you to rest your fears, indulge your curiosity, and
the magnificent sites and culture you will experience
read through this magazine.
along the way, this is a program not to be missed.
I decided to put on this tour after having a conversation with a travel colleague in Europe who has run several tours to Iran over the past few years.
The fascinating history of Iran goes back thousands
From her description of the amazing experiences she
of years, with the ancient roots of Zoroastrianism still
and her guests had had, I was convinced that it was
present in the modern day. What stories are behind
the right time to bring this home.
the mesmerising spirals and geometric tiles of the mosques and fire temples?
Gordon Dreger Founder
18 Rank of Iran of world’s most populous countries, with over 80 million citizens
70 Percent of Iranian population under the age of 30
87% Literacy rate in Iran
1935 Year Iran chose to officially be called only ‘Iran’ and not Persia
125bn Size of Iran’s oil reserves, 10% of world’s supply
Highlights Zagros Mountains
Tehran
Qashqai bedouins Abyaneh
Imam Mosque, Isfahan
Persepolis
Host Profile
My name is Auramyss, and I will be hosting
the revolution which converted Iran into
your tour through Iran. I am so excited to
an Islamic Republic. Since the election of
experience this marvellous country that
president Hassan Rouhani in 2013, a more
has been overseen by tourists for years.
moderate leader, the country has begun to
Iran has so much to offer, however because
repair the damage done by the revolution,
of its rocky past in recent years, many
and relations have improved between Iran
people are unaware of what really goes on
and other nations.
here. Until a few years ago, when I started studying the Near and Middle East as well
I don’t want to reveal too much about his
as the Arabic language (which is not spoken
hidden gem before you get a chance to
in Iran, by the way!) my knowledge was
see for yourself, but what I will say is that
limited to news and propaganda. I am ever
you will be blown away by a few things
so grateful for breaking through that barrier
in particular: The warmth of welcoming
and becoming more aware of this area and
nature of Iranian people, the rich Persian
the beauty it has on so many levels.
culture, the delicious food, the wonderfully preserved historical ruins, and intricate
Iran’s complex history consists of many
architecture of the mosques you will visit
empires,
– Nasir Al-Mulk in Shiraz being one of the
the
most
important
being
Auramyss Riedel
the Persian empire, which was later
Host – Iran 2019
overthrown by Alexander the Great. A
most beautiful.
chain of invasions by the Mongols, Turks,
Throughout this magazine, you will read
and Arabs followed soon after. The flow
about our day-by-day itinerary, outlining
of people and their customs have resulted
the cities we will go to and the sites we will
in the unique aftermath that can still be
visit within them. I am eager to meet you
seen in present day Iran. More recently, in
all and experience this captivating country
1979, the overthrowing of the Shah led to
with you!
FEATURE
5 Misconceptions about visiting Iran 7
FEATURE: 5 Misconceptions about visiting Iran
01
02
03
The culture is not friendly to women
The people dislike foreigners
The country is unsafe
One of the biggest misconceptions
This misconception is at odds with
The moment you tell people that
is that Iran is so religious and
reports from foreigners who have
you’re thinking of visiting Iran,
You may not be aware of it, but you
conservative that female tourists
visited Iran. They say that rarely
the first thing they will say is “Are
probably have some misconceptions
face scorn and contempt. The reality
have they received such a warm
you sure it’s safe?” They’ve been
about Iran lingering in your
is that women play a leading role
welcome. The Iranian people
influenced by political opinion or
subconscious. These nagging
in modern Iranian society and have
recommend places to see and things
the way that Iran is portrayed in
notions may be telling you that the
a lot of freedom of expression.
to do, and even give gifts and invite
the mass media. While you should
country is unsafe, the people are
Walk through the vibrant streets
visitors to dinner with their family.
always take safety precautions no
not friendly to travellers, and the
of Tehran and you’ll see young
matter where you go, Iran has a
overall atmosphere is oppressive,
women wearing makeup, stylish
very low crime rate.
but nothing could be further from
clothing, and casually applied head
the truth.
scarves. If you’re a female tourist,
Perhaps you’ve been wanting to visit Iran for awhile. You’ve seen so many pictures of its timeless architecture and heard about the lively bazaars, warm hospitality, and spectacular landscape. But you have yet to book your trip, and you’re not sure why.
you’re welcome to join them at the Here are 5 common misconceptions about travel in Iran that no longer have any basis in fact- if they ever did in the first place.
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shopping malls, gym, or nail salon!
FEATURE: 5 Misconceptions about visiting Iran
04
05
Iran is too hot
Fun is non-existent
When people think of Iran’s
The media typically portrays Iran as
climate, a scorching sun and sandy
a dour and oppressive regime, but
deserts come to mind. The country
the people enjoy having fun and
actually has a four-season climate
socializing as much as we do. While
with a wide range of weather
there may not be any nightclubs
conditions. June, July, and August
and bars, locals love to picnic with
are characteristically hot, but
friends and family, go to the popular
if you visit between March and
board game cafés, and visit the
May you can count on mild spring
shops and bazaars. Once you meet
temperatures. During the winter
a few Iranians, you can practically
season (December to February),
count on an invitation to join them.
temperatures average around 10°C (50°F).
Don’t let misconceptions prevent you from checking out a spectacular destination.
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Iran bazaar
APR 24 – MAY 12, 2019
Itinerary TEHRAN
Kashan
Isfahan
Kharanaq Yazd Mehriz
Yasuj
Pasargadae Bishapur
Persopolis / Marvdasht Shiraz
Kerman
Tehran at night
DAY 1 // APR 24
Toronto – Tehran Depart from Canada
Board your flight to Tehran, Iran via Frankfurt.
Anticipated Flights: Lufthansa Departs
Arrives
6:20pm Toronto
8:00am (next day) Frankfurt
2:05pm Frankfurt
9:25pm Tehran
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Aerial view of Tehran
DAY 2 // APR 25
Arrive in Tehran Arrive in Tehran
Upon arrival, we clear customs and immigration and then collect our luggage. Once cleared, we shall head directly to our Hotel.
Our hotel: Tehran Grand II Hotel
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Azadi tower
DAY 3 // APR 26
Tehran Breakfast, Dinner
After breakfast at our hotel, we depart with a guide to explore Tehran.
Did you know... Tehran is the capital of Iran and Tehran Province. With a population of around 8.8 million in the city and 15 million in its larger metropolitan area, Tehran is the most populous city in Western Asia. It also holds the distinction of being the secondlargest metropolitan area in the Middle East. Archaeologists believe that people have lived in the region since Neolithic times, but apart from 11th-century AD records indicating the village produced high-quality pomegranates, little was written about Tehran until the 13th century.
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...DAY 3 CONTINUED
In the Classical era, part of present-day Tehran was occupied by Rhages, a prominent Median city. It was repeatedly destroyed in the wake of the Arab, Turkic, and Mongol invasions. Agha Mohammad Khan of the Qajar dynasty selected Tehran as the capital of Iran in 1796, making it the 32nd national capital after the government seat shifted multiple times. The city was the seat of the Qajars and Pahlavis, the two last imperial Golestan Palace
dynasties of the country. Thanks to its rich history, it is home to several historic collections, such as the royal complexes of Golestan, Sa’dabad, and Niavaran, as well as the key government buildings of the modern period.
Our first stop will be the
Museum of Tehran. It
belongs to the central bank of Iran and has tight security protocols. Prominent pieces in the collection include the Koh-i-Noor and Darya-ye Noor diamonds (both from India and among the largest in the world) and the Peacock throne, which is located at the museum entrance.
Abgineh Museum
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...DAY 3 CONTINUED Our next stop will be the National
Palace, which is one of the oldest groups
Museum of Tehran, which contains the
of buildings in Tehran, became the
cultural history of Persia. Its holdings
government seat of the Qajar family,
include both ancient and medieval
which came into power in 1779 and
Iranian antiquities, such as pottery,
made Tehran the capital of the country.
textiles, and rare books and coins.
Built around an elegant garden, the
The building was designed by French
Palace’s decor and holdings date from
architect Andre Godard in the early
the 19th century. It became a centre
20th century. The overall style of the
of Qajari arts and architecture and has
Museum of Ancient Iran was influenced
remained a source of inspiration for
by Sassanid vaults, particularly the
Iranian artists and architects to this day.
Eyvān-e-Kasrā at Ctesiphon. The white travertine Museum of the Islamic Era
We will have time to explore Tehran
was later built on its site. The museum
Grand Bazaar (Bazar-e-Bozorg) which is
has gone through numerous interior
located at Arg Square next to Golestan
changes, and was still being remodelled
palace in Southern Tehran. It consists of
when the 1979 Revolution swept the
several corridors over 10 km in length,
country.
each specializing in different types of goods. The Grand Bazaar is the largest
After the museum, our next stop will
market of its type in the world and a
be the lavish Golestan Palace, which
great place to discover a bargain.
is a masterpiece of the Qajar era. It embodies the successful integration of
The day will end with dinner at either
early Persian crafts and architecture
our hotel or a local restaurant.
with Western influences. The walled
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Marble throne in Golestan Palace
DAY 4 // APR 27
Tehran – Kashan Breakfast, Dinner
Today we will drive to Kashan, a city
in Isfahan
province.
Did you know... Kashan dates back to the Elamite period of Iran. Archaeological discoveries in the Sialk Hillocks west of Kashan reveal that this region was one of the primary centres of prehistoric civilization. The 7,000 year old Sialk ziggurat still stands today in the suburbs of Kashan. The artifacts uncovered at Sialk reside in the Paris Louvre, the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art, and Iran’s National Museum. Between the 12th and the 14th centuries Kashan was an important centre for the production of high quality pottery and tiles. The modern word for a tile (kashi) comes from the name of the town.
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Fin garden
...DAY 4 CONTINUED Intricate relief carvings in Tabatabaei mansion
We will stop at Tabatabaei Mansion,
Our last stop is Fin Garden. Some
which was built 200 years ago by
sources indicate that the garden
famous carpet merchant Tabatabaei.
predates the Safavid period. It was built
It consists of beautiful buildings that
during the reign of Abbas I of Persia
showcase historic Iranian architecture.
(1571-1629), as a traditional bagh
The property has four courtyards,
near the village of Fin, located a few
classic stained-glass windows, and
kilometres southwest of Kashan. The
other elements of traditional Persian
garden was developed further during
architecture, such as biruni (common
the Safavid dynasty, until Abbas II of
area)
Persia (1633-1666). It was especially
and
andaruni
(women’s
quarters)..
prominent during the reign of Fat′h Ali Shah Qajar. The garden subsequently
The Bazaar of Kashan is located in the
suffered from neglect until it was listed
Kashan city centre. It is believed to
as a national property of Iran in 1935.
have been built in the Seljuk era and
UNESCO declared the garden a World
expanded during the Safavid dynasty.
Heritage Site on July 18, 2012.
We will have time to explore the bazaar and haggle with local traders to buy
Our hotel:
items that can only be found in this
Kashan Mahinestan
part of the world.
Raheb Hotel
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Abyaneh village
DAY 5 // APR 28
Kashan – Isfahan Breakfast, Dinner
After breakfast at our hotel, we will depart for Isfahan, stopping on the way at Abyaneh village. The village of Abyaneh is located at the foot of Mount Karkas, close to the desert. We will meet the hospitable inhabitants who live and dress in the original Persian style.
Did you know... Abyaneh is one of the oldest villages in Iran. Its existence has been traced back at least 2,500 years. Situated on the north-western slope of Mount Karkas between Kashan and Isfahan, this ancient village is a living museum, preserved for its cultural heritage, traditions, and unique beauty despite centuries of changing rules, dynasties, and kingdoms in Persia.
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Ancient building in Abyaneh
...DAY 5 CONTINUED
The
oldest
building
in
Abyaneh,
Harpak
Zoroastrian Fire Temple, is a true testament to the existence, growth, and advancement of the onceisolated village and its people. Built during the Achaemenid period (550-330 BC), the fire temple used to be an important religious temple for its majority Zoroastrian inhabitants, until Islam was fully embraced by the locals. The picturesque village is surrounded by mountains and guarded by three long-abandoned forts. The Palahamoona Fort (Takht-e-Haman), situated in the south-west of Abyaneh, across the Barzrud River is thought to have been built over 200 years ago. Group members will be able to approach the fort and enjoy the spectacular panorama of the village with its beautiful mountain backdrop.
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Siosepol bridge at night
...DAY 5 CONTINUED
In Isfahan, we will visit Siosepol and Khaju bridges. Siosepol (meaning 33 bridges or Allah Verdi Khan Bridge) and Khaju Bridge are two royal bridges constructed on the order of Abbas Shah, the king of Safavids. Both have been acclaimed as excellent examples of Sasanid architecture. The day will conclude with dinner at our hotel or a local restaurant.
Our hotel: Parsian Kowsar Hotel
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DAY 6 // APR 29
Isfahan Breakfast, Dinner
Today we head to the beautiful city of Isfahan.
Did you know... Isfahan is located on the main north–south and east–west routes crossing Iran. It was once one of the largest cities in the world. It flourished from 1050 to 1722, particularly in the 16th century under the Safavid dynasty, when it became the capital of Persia for the second time in its history. Even today, the city retains much of its past glory. It is famous for its Persian–Islamic architecture, with many beautiful boulevards, covered bridges, palaces, mosques, and minarets. This led to the Persian proverb “Esfahān nesf-e- jahān ast” (Isfahan is half of the world). The UNESCO designated Naghsh-e Jahan Square in Isfahan is one of the largest city squares in the world.
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Colourful details of Imam Mosque of Isfahan
...DAY 6 CONTINUED First on the agenda is a visit to Naghsh-e Jahan Square which was built by Shah Abbas I the Great at the beginning of the 17th century. It is bordered on all sides by monumental buildings linked by a series of two-storeyed arcades. The site is also the location of the Royal Mosque, the Mosque of Sheykh Lotfollah, the magnificent Portico of Qaysariyyeh and the 15th-century Timurid palace. All of these important structures are an impressive testimony to Safavid era social and cultural life. Located in Naghsh-e Jahan Square, the Bazaar of Isfahan or Isfahan Bazaar is a historical market in Isfahan, Iran. The entrance to this huge bazaar is an elegantly painted Safavid era arch. It is one of the oldest and largest bazaars in the Middle East, dating back to the 17th century. It was registered in the UNESCO World Heritages site index as a part of Naqsh-e-Jahan square.
Naghsh-e Jahan Square
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Imam Mosque of Isfahan
Next stop is Ali Qapu, a grand palace
Last stop is Chehel Sotun, a pavilion in
in Isfahan. It is located on the western
the middle of a park in Isfahan. It was
side of the Naghsh-e Jahan Square,
built by Shah Abbas II to be used for
opposite to Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque,
his entertainment and receptions. The
and was originally designed a vast
name, which means “Forty Columns”
portal. It is forty-eight meters high and
in Persian, was inspired by the twenty
has six floors, each accessible by an
slender wooden columns supporting
intricate spiral staircase. In the sixth-
the entrance pavilion which, when
floor Music Hall, deep circular niches
reflected in the waters of the fountain,
in the wall enhance acoustics.
appear to be forty in number. The Chehel Sotoun Palace is among the
Of the four monuments along the
nine
Naqsh-e Jahan square perimeter, the
collectively registered as one of the
Lotfollah Mosque, opposite of the Aali
Iran’s 17 World Heritage Sites under
Qapu palace, was the first to be built.
the name of the Persian Garden.
It was intended to be a mosque for the royal court while the Masjed-e Shah served the public. We will also visit the Imam Mosque of Isfahan (or Shah mosque before the Islamic revolution of Iran), which is widely acclaimed as an architectural masterpiece. It is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
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Iranian
Gardens
which
are
FEATURE
Imam Mosque of Isfahan 24
FEATURE: Imam Mosque of Isfahan
The Imam mosque in the Royal Square of Isfahan is celebrated worldwide as an architectural masterpiece. Also known as the Shah mosque or Royal mosque, the building appeared in the BBC Series Around the World in 80 Treasures. The presenter, architecture historian Dan Cruickshank, was in awe of the elegant structure’s perfect proportions and famous blue-tiled mosaics. Located at the head of Isfahan’s main square, the mosque has changed little since its construction 400 years ago. It was built at the behest of Shah Abbas I as a testament to the highlights and accomplishments of the Safavid dynasty. Work began in 1611 and ended in 1629, the year that Shah Abbas died. Although decorative touches continued to be added, the mosque retains a unity of colour, ornamentation, and design that marks it as the vision of a single great patron. According to one story, the Shah tried to expedite the construction, perhaps sensing that death was approaching. When he ordered work on the walls to start before the foundations were even complete, the architect, Ali Akbar Esfahani, refused and went into hiding. He finally reappeared when time proved his refusal to be a wise one and he received a royal pardon. 25
Imam Mosque of Isfahan
FEATURE: Imam Mosque of Isfahan
The mosque, which consists of multiple sections, occupies 12,264 square metres. Its dome has cream-coloured tiles that gradually turn pink as the day progresses, a phenomenon that visitors love to photograph. At 53 metres tall, the dome was the tallest in the city when construction completed in 1629. The frequently-photographed entrance portal displays some of the finest mosaic work that the Safavid era produced. Its function was mainly decorative and intended to counterbalance the Qeysarieh Portal at the entrance to the Bazar-e Bozorg. The intricate floral designs and magnificent arabesques have, over the years, become an Isfahan signature motif. A twisting hallway leads to the sanctuary, where the shafts of sunlight streaming through high latticed windows bring the rich blue tilework into focus. The vibrant yellow motifs of the ceiling have been praised as a masterpiece of design. The mihrab (wall niche at the point nearest to Mecca, toward which the congregation faces during prayer) is renowned as one of the finest in Iran. The Imam Mosque of Isfahan is such a national treasure that it is depicted on the reverse of the 20,000 rials banknote. Visitors are welcome to take pictures, as long as their cameras do not use flashes. 26
Garden in Naghsh-e Jahan Square
DAY 7 // APR 30
Isfahan Breakfast, Dinner
After breakfast, we will visit the Friday Mosque. Located in the historic centre of Isfahan, the Masjed-e Jāmé (‘Friday mosque’) is a stunning illustration of the evolution of mosque architecture over twelve centuries, starting in 841 AD. It is the oldest preserved edifice of its type in Iran and a prototype for later mosque designs throughout Central Asia. The complex, covering more than 20,000 square metres, is also the first Islamic building to use the four-courtyard layout of Sassanid palaces. Its doubleshelled ribbed domes represent an architectural innovation that inspired builders throughout the region.
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Friday Mosque
Vank cathedral
...DAY 7 CONTINUED
After leaving the Friday Mosque, we will head to the Vank cathedral, also known as the Church of the Saintly Sisters, which is located in the New Julfa district of Isfahan. It is commonly referred to as the Vank, which means “monastery” or “convent” in Armenian. At the end of the day, we shall visit the fire temple to hear a Zoroastrian priest talking about the details of Zoroastrianism. This discussion is a fascinating glimpse into Iran’s most ancient religion.
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DAY 8 // MAY 01
Isfahan – Yasuj Breakfast, Dinner
Today our destination is Yasuj, an industrial city in the Zagros Mountains of southwestern Iran.
Did you know... Yasuj is located in southwestern Iran, at the centre of Kohgiluyeh and Boyer-Ahmad. The waterfall (Park Falls) is two kilometres from the city centre and attracts hundreds of tourists every year. The area of Yasuj has been settled since the Bronze Age. Historic highlights include the Martyrs Hills (dating from 3rd millennium BC), the Khosravi Hill from the Achaemenian period, the ancient site of Gerd, the Pataveh bridge, and the Pay-e Chol cemetery. Yasuj is the place where Alexander III of Macedon and his Macedonian forces stormed the Persian Gates (“Darvazeh-ye Fars”) and invaded the country (331 BC).
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Zagros mountains
...DAY 8 CONTINUED
On the way to Yasuj, we will visit the province’s main attraction, Margoon Waterfall, which measures 70 metres high and 100 metres long. It is located in Margoon Village, 48 kilometres from the city, and acclaimed as one of the largest and most beautiful waterfalls in Iran. After visiting Yasuj, we will head to our hotel for dinner.
Our hotel: Parsian Azadi Hotel
Road to Yazd
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DAY 9 // MAY 02
Yasuj – Shiraz Breakfast, Dinner
On the way between Yasuj and Shiraz, we visit Bishapur.
Did you know... The name Bishapur derives from Bay-Šāpūr, which means Lord Shapur. According to an inscription, the city itself was founded in 266 by Shapur I (241272), the second Sassanid king. He inflicted a triple defeat on the Romans, having killed Gordian III, captured Valerian and forced Philip the Arab to surrender. He built a new capital city in his native province of Fars, named it Bishapur, or Shapur’s City, and decorated the sides of the Bishapur River gorge with huge historical reliefs commemorating his triple triumph over Rome. The city remained prominent until the Arabian invasions and the rise of Islam in the second quarter of the 7th century.
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Sculpture of King Shapur I in Bishapur
Qashqai bedouins
...DAY 9 CONTINUED Later in the day we will pay a visit with the Qashqai bedouins, also known as Ghashghaei. They are one of the Iranian nomadic tribes that keep on moving across the Zagros Mountains. In winter they live in the southern part but as soon as the summer comes and the heat starts to become unbearable, they start moving north. Their flocks of sheep and goats are their main source of income. From these animals, they get meat, cheese, and milk. They also sell the newborns at the markets of Shiraz.
Our hotel: Shiraz Park Hotel
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Nasir-ol-molk Mosque
DAY 10 // MAY 03
Shiraz
Breakfast, Dinner
Enjoy a full day exploring Shiraz and its most notable landmarks such as Hafez Mausoleum, Vakil Bazar and Mosque, Qavam House, and Nasir Ol Molk Mosque.
33
...DAY 10 CONTINUED
Did you know... Shiraz is the sixth most populous city of Iran and the capital of Fars Province. It is located in the southwest of Iran on the Roodkhaneye Khoshk (Dry River) seasonal river and has a moderate climate. Shiraz has been a regional trade centre for over a thousand years and is widely regarded as one of the oldest cities of ancient Persia. The earliest reference to the city, as TiraziĹĄ, is on Elamite clay tablets dated to 2000 BC. In the 13th century, Shiraz became a leading centre of the arts and letters thanks to royal patronage and a high number of scholars and artists. It was the capital of Persia during the Zand dynasty from 1750 until 1781, as well as briefly during the Saffarid period. Two famous Iranian poets, Hafez and Saadi, are from Shiraz. It is also known as the city of gardens, due to its many gardens and fruit trees. Local crafts include inlaid mosaic work of triangular design, silverware, carpet-weaving, and rugs called gilim.
Hafez Mausoleum
34
...DAY 10 CONTINUED
A recommended location for lunch is
Hafezieh Teahouse, which serves
We will begin at the Hafez Mausoleum.
Faludeh (Persian Glass Noodle Ice
Hafez was born in Shiraz in 1315 and
Cream).
died there in 1390. A beloved figure,
Vakil Mosque
Beautiful stained glass of Nasir al-Mulk Mosque
Hafez was prominent in his home town
Our next stop is the Qavam House,
and held a position as the court poet.
which symbolizes the elegance and
Hafiz is a coveted title among Muslims,
refinement enjoyed by the upper-
as it is reserved for someone who has
class families during the 19th century.
completely memorized the Quran.
The paintings on the low ceilings are inspired by Victorian era Europe.
We shall also visit Vakil Bazaar, which is the main section of the Shiraz Bazaar. It
Later we will visit Nasir Ol Molk
was built in the 11th Century by Karim
Mosque, which is one of the most
Khan as part of a plan to make Shiraz
photographed pieces of architecture
into a prominent trading centre. Vakil
in southern Iran. The Pink Mosque was
Bazaar is a trade hub for merchants
built at the end of the 19th century and
selling spices, rugs, handmade copper
has exquisitely coloured tiling in an
pieces, antiques, Persian sweets and
unusually deep shade of blue. There
much more. Close to the bazaar is the
are some particularly fine muqarnas
Vakil Mosque, which covers an area of
in the small outer portal and in the
8,660 square meters. The iwans and
northern Iran, but it is the stained
court are decorated with typical Shirazi
glass, carved pillars and polychrome
haft rangi tiles, a characteristic feature
faience of the winter prayer hall that
of the art and industry of Shiraz during
dazzle the eye when the sun streams
the latter half of the 18th century.
in.
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Naqsh-e Rajab
DAY 11 // MAY 04
Shiraz – Marvdasht Breakfast, Dinner
After an early breakfast at our hotel, we will travel to Marvdasht to visit the famous Persepolis and Necropolis.
Did you know... Marvdasht dates back to the early days of the Persian empire. Its former capital, Persepolis, is in the vicinity of the city. Also close by are Naqsh-e-Rostam, Naqsh-e Rajab and the ruins of the ancient city of Estakhr, all of which are reminiscent of the region’s importance in historic times. Archaeological excavations have shown that people had been living in the Marvdasht Plains for millennia when Darius chose the plains of mount Rahmat for his royal residence.
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Ancient site of Naqsh-e Rustam
...DAY 11 CONTINUED Persepolis, which literally means The Persian City, is also known as the Throne of Jamshid. It was the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire (ca. 550–330 BC) and exemplifies the Achaemenid style of architecture. The earliest remains of Persepolis date back to 515 BC. UNESCO declared the ruins of Persepolis a World Heritage Site in 1979. Naqsh-e necropolis
Rustam located
is
an
about
ancient 6
km
northwest of Persepolis. It features a group of ancient Iranian rock reliefs cut into the cliff, which date from both the Achaemenid and Sassanid periods.
Our hotel: Persepolis Apadana Hotel
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Tomb of Cyrus the Great
DAY 12 // MAY 05
Marvdasht – Yazd Breakfast, Dinner
This morning we will drive to Yazd, stopping along the way in Abarkuh and Pasargadae.
Did you know... Pasargadae was the first dynastic capital of the Achaemenid Empire, which was founded by Cyrus II the Great in the 6th century BC. It is regarded as the first empire that respected the cultural diversity of its different peoples. Its palaces, gardens and the mausoleum of Cyrus are outstanding examples of the first phase of royal Achaemenid art and architecture and exceptional testimonies to early Persian civilization. Particularly noteworthy vestiges in the 160-hectare site include: the Mausoleum of Cyrus II; Tall-e Takht, a fortified terrace; and a royal ensemble of gatehouse, audience hall, residential palace and gardens.
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Abarkuh Cypress Tree
...DAY 12 CONTINUED We will also visit the Abarkuh Cypress Tree which is located in the city of Abarkuh. With a height of about 25 metres and circumference of about 18 metres, it is over 3,000 years old and a major tourist attraction of the region.
Our hotel: Hotel Laleh Yazd
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DAY 13 // MAY 06
Yazd
Breakfast, Dinner
Today we will spend the entire day exploring Yazd, nicknamed the “City of Windcatchers.� We will also have the opportunity to visit the fire temple, Tower of Silence, Jame Mosque, old city Fahadan, and Zurkhaneh craft house.
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Yazd, Iran
Tower of Silence
...DAY 13 CONTINUED
Did you know... Yazd is the capital of Yazd Province.
By paying a levy, Yazd was allowed
The city is located 270 kilometres
to remain Zoroastrian even after its
southeast of Esfahan. Thanks to
conquest, and Islam only gradually
generations of adaptation to its desert
became the dominant religion in the
surroundings, Yazd has a unique
city.
Persian architecture. Its assortment of ancient Persian wind catchers has
Because of its remote desert location,
earned it the nickname the city of
Yazd remained largely immune to
windcatchers. Yazd is also celebrated
large battles and the destruction
for its Zoroastrian fire temples, ab
and ravages of war. It was a haven
anbars, qanats, yakhchals, Persian
for those fleeing from destruction in
handicrafts, silk weaving, and its high-
other parts of Persian Empire during
quality Yazdi confectionery.
the Mongol invasion. In 1272 it was visited by Marco Polo, who remarked
The city’s name is a tribute to
on the city’s fine silk-weaving industry.
Yazdegerd I, a Sassanid ruler of Persia. It was a Zoroastrian centre during Sassanid times. The word yazd means God. After the Arab conquest of Iran, many Zoroastrians migrated to Yazd from neighbouring provinces.
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Zoroastrian Fire Temple of Yazd
...DAY 13 CONTINUED Our first stop will be the fire temple of Yazd which belongs to the small community of Zoroastrians living in Yazd. The building itself dates from the Pahlavid era but the fire has supposedly been burning for nearly 1000 years. In the Zoroastrian religion, fire, together with clean water, are agents of ritual purity. Next, we will visit the Tower of Silence. In the Zoroastrian tradition, once a body ceases to live, it can immediately be contaminated by demons and made impure. To prevent this infiltration, Zoroastrians purified the dead body by exposing it to the elements atop flat-topped desert towers called dakhmas. According to a tradition dating back over 3,000 years, bodies were arranged on the towers in three concentric circles. Men were placed in the outer circle, women in the middle, and children in the innermost ring. Bodies were then left until their bones were bleached by the elements and stripped by the vultures.
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...DAY 13 CONTINUED Another stop on our program will be the Jame Mosque, the Friday mosque in Yazd. It dates from the 12th century, having been built under Ala’oddoleh Garshasb of the Al-e Bouyeh dynasty. The mosque was largely rebuilt between 1324 and 1365, and is one of the outstanding 14th century buildings of Iran. According to historians, the mosque was constructed in the site of the Sassanid fire temple. We will also visit the old city of Yazd also known as Fahadan. It is one of the oldest cultural centres in the world and a perfect example of the historical and cultural richness of the region. The mud houses with wind catchers (Badgirs) contribute to a majestic landscape. Fahadan is also the site of the famous Alexander’s Prison and Friday mosque of Yazd. There will also be a visit at the Zurkhaneh craft house, a domed structure that hosted varzesh-e pahlavani or varzesh-e bastany, a traditional Iranian system of athletics originally used to train warriors. It combines martial arts, calisthenics, strength training and music. Recognized by UNESCO as among the world’s longest-running forms of such training, it fuses elements of pre-Islamic Persian culture (particularly Zoroastrianism, Mithraism and Gnosticism) with the spirituality of Shia Islam and Sufism.
Sunset over ancient city of Yazd
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FEATURE
Shi’a Islam: A Quick Overview
44
FEATURE: Shi’a Islam: a Quick Overview
When you visit Iran, the majority of
The main area of disagreement
the Muslim people you will meet are
between the Shiite and Sunni is the
Shi’a, or Shiite. This group accounts
rightful successor of the Prophet
for approximately 95% of the
Muhammad, who died in 632
country’s Muslim population but in
C.E. Shiites believe that the title
the world at large they are a distinct
belonged to his cousin and son-in-
minority. (Only 15% of all Muslims
law, Ali. Their name is actually a
are Shiite.)
contraction of ‘Shiat Ali’, meaning ‘partisans of Ali’. The Sunni take
Shiites observe many of the same
the position that Muhammad did
rituals as the much-larger Sunni
not name an heir and his rightful
group. Both sides agree that Allah
successor was Abu Bakr, who was
is the one true God and the Quran
elected as caliph (religious leader)
is God’s revelation. They mutually
by the Muslim community.
observe Eid Al-Fitr (celebrated at the end of Ramadan) and Eid Al-Adha, the two official Islamic holidays. However, there are also key ideological differences between the two groups, some of which lead to mutual hostility. 45
Colourful mosque in Tehran
FEATURE: Shi’a Islam: a Quick Overview
Shiite Muslims hold scholars called
Although all Muslims are required
Imams in especially high regard,
to pray five times a day, Shiite
seeing them as both spiritual and
practice allows some prayers to be
political leaders. The majority
grouped so that there are three
adhere to a school of thought called
daily prayer times. Shiites at prayer
the Jafaryia or the “Twelvers,” while
can be identified by the way they
others believe in the “Seveners” or
place their forehead on a small
the “Fivers.” These titles refer to
clay tablet while prostrating. These
the number of Imams recognized
tablets typically come from Karbala
as leaders after the death of the
or another holy place.
Prophet. The Twelvers believe that the twelve Imams who succeeded
Most of the mosques you see or
Muhammad had been directly
visit in Iran will be for Shiites, as
chosen by Allah for their sinless
Iran does not allow the existence
state.
of Sunni mosques in areas where Sunnis are not the majority
The most important of these
demographically. These magnificent
religious leaders have been
buildings are held up as examples
memorialized in magnificent tombs
of timeless religious art and attract
that are now popular pilgrimage
visitors every year.
sites. The tomb of Ali, who was assassinated in Iraq in 661, is an important place of pilgrimage for Shiite Muslims. 46
Clay tablets
DAY 14 // MAY 07
Yazd – Kharanaq – Yazd Breakfast, Dinner
After breakfast at our hotel, the first stop on our agenda is Amir Chakhmaq Square. The Amir Chakhmaq Complex is a prominent structure noted for its symmetrical sunken alcoves. It is a mosque located on a square of the same name. It also contains a caravanserai, a tekyeh, a bathhouse, a cold water well, and a confectionery. At night, the building is lit up with orange lighting in the arched alcoves, making it a popular local spectacle. The next stop is Kharanaq, a mud brick village north of Yazd. The old city of Kharanaq is an abandoned city that includes a menar jonban (shaking minaret), fire temple, Sassanid bridge and a restored caravanserai, or inn for travellers. Dinner will be either at our hotel or a local restaurant.
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The impressive facade of the Amir Chakhmaq mosque
...DAY 14 CONTINUED View of Kharanaq old town
Did you know... The deserted and crumbling mud-brick village of Kharanaq sits in a remote valley about 70 kilometres (43 miles) north of Yazd. The site has been occupied for approximately 4,000 years, while the dilapidated adobe buildings that attract visitors from around the world date back around 1,000 years. The abandoned town is a photographer’s dream with a labyrinth of streets, tunnels, passageways, and rooms, as well as a tiny mosque, a shaking minaret, and an old caravanserai that welcomed merchants and pilgrims centuries ago. Kharanaq, which means ‘place of birth of the sun’, is divided into two parts – the Old Town, which is almost completely deserted, and the New Town, where some 130 families continue to live. The Old Town was constructed with sun-baked mud bricks, forming one of the largest collections of adobe buildings in Iran. It was once a prosperous farming village, but when water supplies dried up the inhabitants left, leaving the town to turn to ruins.
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DAY 15 // MAY 08
Yazd – Kerman Breakfast, Dinner
This morning, we drive to Kerman, stopping to visit the Pahlevan Poor garden in Mehriz. The Pahlevan Poor Garden is one of Iran’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites and features two rivers and a palace in the middle. Upon arrival in Kerman, we will take some time to explore the area on our own before dinner.
Our hotel: Kerman Pars Hotel
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Picturesque Kerman desert
Panoramic view of Kerman
DAY 16 // MAY 09
Kerman Breakfast, Dinner
After breakfast at our hotel, we will embark on a full day tour of Kerman.
Did you know... Kerman is home to many historic mosques and Zoroastrian fire temples. It became the capital city of several Iranian dynasties during its history. Kerman is among several cities in Iran with a strong cultural heritage, which is expressed in the local accent, poetry, local music, handicrafts and customs. Some of the handicrafts and souvenirs are traditional embroidery known as pateh, carpets, rugs, jajeems, Kilims (a coarse carpet), satchels, and other hand woven articles. Caraway seeds and pistachios of Rafsanjan and Kerman among the most celebrated produce.
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A mosque in Shahdad, Kerman
...DAY 16 CONTINUED
Kerman was established as a defense outpost by Ardashir I, founder of the Sasanian Empire, in the 3rd century AD. Its original name was VehArdashir. After the Battle of Nahāvand in 642, the city came under Muslim rule. In the beginning the city’s relative isolation allowed Kharijites and Zoroastrians to thrive there, but the Kharijites were wiped out in 698, and the population was mostly Muslim by 725. By the eighth century the city was famous for its cashmere woolen shawls and other textiles. The Abbasid Caliphate’s authority over the region was weak, and power passed in the tenth century to the Buyid dynasty, which maintained control even when the region and city fell to Mahmud of Ghazni in the late tenth century. The name Kerman was adopted at some point in the tenth century
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Metal souvenirs in an Iranian bazaar
...DAY 16 CONTINUED
There will also be time to visit the bazaar in the southern part of Ganjali
The day’s agenda includes a visit the
Square. It is decorated with exquisite
Ganjali Khan Complex, a Safavid-era
and well-preserved plasterwork and
building complex located in the centre
wall paintings that date back at least
of Kerman. It consists of a school,
400 years.
square, caravanserai, bathhouse, Ab Anbar (water reservoir), mint, mosque
We will
and bazaar.
interior decorations consist of ochre
also visit the mint, whose
plaster and brickwork. The building Ganj-ali khan hamam is a bathhouse
has a tall dome crowned by a cupola
that was built in 1631 by Ganj Ali Khan,
to admit light and fresh air. The
ruler of the Kerman, Sistan and
mint, which was converted into a
Kandahar
provinces
1596
numismatics museum in 1970, displays
to
The
features
coins from different periods such
decorative designs of the Safavid era.
as Parthian, Sassanid, Safavid and
One interesting architectural feature
Afsharid periods.
1621.
from
entrance
is the way that the sculptured stones of the ceiling coincide with that of the
This mosque is in the north eastern
flooring. The bathhouse was converted
corner of the Ganj Ali Khan aggregate
into an anthropological museum in
of Kerman. It is practically a small
1971.
museum, exhibiting decorative Islamic arts such as tile, plaster works, and calligraphy. This mosque was built in the year 1007 AH. and contains 14 shops.
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DAY 17 // MAY 10
Kerman Breakfast, Dinner
We will continue exploring Kerman today, with visits to the Shazdeh Garden, and Rayen Castle/Citadel. Our first stop is the Shazdeh Garden, which was built originally for Mohammad Hasan Khan Qajar Sardari Iravani ca.1850. It was left unfinished due to the death of Abdolhamid Mirza in the early 1890s. The garden is 5.5 hectares with a rectangular shape and surrounding wall. It consists of an entrance structure and gate at the lower end and a two-floor residential structure at the upper end. The area between these two structures is occupied by water fountains powered by the land’s natural incline. The garden is a fine example of Persian gardens that take advantage of suitable natural climate.
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Shazdeh Garden
Rayen Castle
...DAY 17 CONTINUED
Next stop is the city of Rayen. Rayen Castle/Citadel was inhabited until 150 years ago and, although believed to be at least 1,000 years old, may date back to the pre-Islamic Sassanid era. According to old documents, it was situated on the trade route, and was one of the centres for trading valuable goods and quality textiles. It was also a centre of sword and knife manufacturing and, later on, gun production. Near the city is the Haraz mountain, which features several fruit gardens, the mines that produce green and pink marble and hot springs that make it a popular tourist destination.
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Azadi Tower
DAY 18 // MAY 11
Kerman – Tehran Breakfast, Dinner
After an early breakfast, we will head to the airport and catch a flight back to Tehran. Upon landing, we will visit the Azadi Tower before heading to our hotel. The Azadi Tower (Liberty Tower) is part of the Azadi Cultural Complex, located in Tehran’s Azadi Square. There are several fountains around the base of the tower and a museum underground. In the evening, we will enjoy a farewell dinner before ending our sojourn in the historic land of Persia.
Our hotel: Ibis Tehran Imam Khomeini International Airport Hotel
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DAY 19 // MAY 12
Depart Tehran Breakfast (box)
Fly home in the early morning.
Anticipated Flights: Austrian Airlines Departs
Arrives
03:55am Tehran
06:00am Vienna
10:40am Vienna
02:10pm Toronto
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Ancient Iranian caravanserai at night
Pricing & Inclusions
PACKAGE PRICE (AIR & LAND) PER PERSON CAD$7,990 per person based on double occupancy CAD$9,690 per person based on single occupancy
INCLUSIONS • Round-trip international airfare and air taxes for Toronto-Tehran-Toronto on Lufthansa/Austrian Air (fares from other cities are available by calling member services) • 17 nights’ accommodation with daily breakfast • 16 dinners at the hotel or local restaurants as per itinerary with water and coffee/tea included • Tours and transfers with entrance fees as per itinerary • Service of professional English-speaking local guides • Porterage at hotels where available • All gratuities • Local flight Kerman to Tehran • Visa fees for Iran • Wheel & Anchor host during the entire stay in Iran
EXCLUSIONS • Meals not included in the itinerary • Optional travel, health, accident or other insurance
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VISA FOR IRAN Visa fees are included in your package and we will apply for the Iranian visa on your behalf. If you wish to obtain a visa on your own, a credit of CAD$150 (subject to change) will apply.
3 MONTHS PRIOR TO DEPARTURE: • We will need a copy of your passport to send to the local land operator in Iran • The local land operator in Iran will request a visa code through the Foreign Ministry in Tehran, which will take around 45 days (for Canadian citizens) • Once approved, we will receive a visa code and reference number
2 MONTHS PRIOR TO DEPARTURE: We will need the following documents from you: • Actual passport, valid for at least 6 months after date of return • One original visa application form, completed and signed • One passport photo, with the following specifications, glue/staple to the application form • 2x2 inches with white background • Taken within the last six months • Your name on the back of the photo
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AIR CREDIT If you wish to arrange your own international air travel from Toronto- TehranToronto, an air credit of CAD$1,450 per person will be deducted from the tour cost.
PAYMENT Deposit:
25% of total tour price due upon booking
Final Payment:
January 07, 2019
CANCELLATION PENALTY Between time of booking & Jan 06, 2019:
CAD$1,000 per person
Between Jan 07, 2019 & date of departure:
100% of total cost
Activity Level: this tour has a moderate activity level. Most excursions will have walks of less than 1km. There are two excursions which include slightly longer walks of up to approximately 2 km on partially uneven ground. This tour is subject to our complete terms and conditions which is available upon request and will be automatically provided at time of booking.
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Iran: Secrets of an Empire APR 24 – MAY 12, 2019
WHEELANDANCHOR.CA +1 (416) 628-2800 EXT. 250 INFO@WHEELANDANCHOR.CA
All tours are sold through New Sky Travel, 2900 Warden Avenue, Toronto, Ontario M1W 2S8 TICO Reg. No. 1817786. Bookings are subject to our standard terms & conditions, all of which are available from our office upon request or automatically at the time of booking.