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AW 27-28 Season Report Preview

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LI MA V SEASON T IREPORT TE NG R © Reproduction prohibited, all rights reserved. Première Vision S.A


LI V I NG

SUMMARY 1. THE SEASON — 3 FUTURE SCENARIOS THE SOCIETAL, CULTURAL AND BEHAVIORAL SHIFTS SHAPING THE SEASON, AND THEIR MATERIAL EXPRESSIONS #3 MATTER OF TIME #5 MATTER OF EASE #20 WILD MATTER #32

2. MATERIAL DIRECTIONS BY SPECIALTY, USE, AND MARKET #47 TEXTILE DIRECTIONS, BY SPECIALTY & USE #48

_SPORT & OUTDOOR: EMERGING PATHWAYS #71

_LEATHER FOCUS: BAG, SHOES & APPAREL #93

ORNAMENTS & PATTERNS DIRECTIONS, BY TECHNIQUE & EXPERTISE #61

_DENIM DIRECTIONS #77

_ACCESSORIES & COMPONENTS FOCUS #98

MA T TE R

3. ECO-INNOVATION: DRIVING SUSTAINABLE TRANSFORMATION #102 4. NEXT-GEN PACKAGING SOLUTIONS FOCUS #112


In this world, where perfection and efficiency have become the domain of technology, value is shifting. It no longer lies solely in flawless execution, but in the ability to reveal a human presence. Marks of time, alterations and signs of wear are thus becoming expressions of singularity and narrative, carrying a story and character that cannot be replicated by machines.

Materials and surfaces imbued with lived experience are thereby strengthening emotional attachment. They are introducing a sensitive dimension, where each alteration becomes the trace of a journey, a use, a memory. In contrast to contemporary immediacy, these expressions are establishing a slower temporality, capable of sustaining desire over time.

MATTER OF TIME

Jingyi Li

Petra Fagerstrom SS26 Creative director: petra fagerstrom / Stylist: harry lambert / Photographer: andrew nuding / Make up: lauren reynolds / Hair: ali pirzadeh / Casting: nachum shonn / Production: north six

The Autumn-Winter 27–28 season is unfolding within a context of unprecedented technological acceleration. Automated systems and artificial intelligence are now reaching levels of speed and precision that are redefining production processes, driving increasing standardisation.

© Jeff Cowen/ ADAGP. Digitalized by farbanalyse, Cologne.

ALTERATIONS AND THE IMPRINT OF TIME: TOWARD A NEW DESIRABILITY


TOWARDS “MADE BY HUMAN” LABELS

MASTERY & CRAFTSMANSHIP

Eight competing initiatives are emerging simultaneously — Not By AI, Proudly Human, TikTok Author (creating live to prove one’s humanity in real time). This proliferation is not insignificant; it is echoing the “dead internet theory,” the idea that the web may soon be largely populated by botgenerated content. Human certification is therefore meeting this need to make the gesture itself a guarantee of value.

Numerous exhibitions in New York, London, or Paris are currently highlighting the dialogue between ultra-contemporary artists and classical references from European art history. Émile Brunet, Eleanor Johnson or Victor Man, featured in the exhibition “Clair-Obscur” at the Bourse de Commerce in Paris, are examples of this. These connections to the past remind us of the enduring power of classical art.

The Geneva-based watchmaker Vacheron Constantin is pushing the pursuit of complications to its extreme, with sixty-three interconnected mechanical functions (moon phases, equation of time, minute repeater, perpetual calendar). The house’s objective is to showcase human mastery as the very essence of luxury.

MATTER OF TIME

WEAK SIGNALS

CONTEMPORARY ART AND CLASSICAL RESONANCES


KEY MATERIALS MATTER OF TIME

AM COMPANY - KR

NAJBERG - FR

TIME BECOMES A CENTRAL CONCERN, WITH PRODUCT LONGEVITY EMERGING AS A POWERFUL DRIVER OF DESIRABILITY. The approach to materials is exacting, calling for expert craftsmanship and placing the transmission of know-how back at the heart of fashion, whether applied to traditional manufacturing techniques or innovative textiles.


KEY MATERIALS

YESUNG TEXTILE - KR

GUIGOU - FR

The silk aesthetic takes on contemporary interpretations: Technical taffetas, performance satins and interlocks with flawless, lustrous surfaces.

Compact, solid-colored materials to sculpt generous, majestic volumes.

MATTER OF TIME

Designer Selma Mataich Shoes in collaboration with Tirlittan Machreich Photo by Alexandre Kallio Model Kielo Kivinen MUAH Titti Heinrichs

SUMPTUOUS DENSITY


TEXTILE DIRECTIONS

BEZ TEKSTIL - TR

A TREND ANALYSIS OF EVOLVING TEXTILE DIRECTIONS, ACROSS KEY CATEGORIES AND END USES: Woolens, tailoring, casualwear, jeanswear, shirting, knits and silks.


SILKIES

WASHED FLUIDITY

AI generated / Première Vision

FURKAN TEKSTIL - TR

IRFAN AYDEMIR TEKSTIL - TR

_Twill constructions borrowed from denim.

_Sanded, soft and downy surfaces. _Faded colors and subtle marbled effects.

YOUNGWON - KR

TEXTILE DIRECTIONS

Round and supple, washed silks with a peach-skin feel are reworked for everyday use in an urban color palette inspired by casual cottons.


ECOINNOVATION DIRECTIONS DRIVING SUSTAINABLE TRANSFORMATION

GUANGDONG EXPONENT ENVIROTECH - CN

For its September edition, Première Vision is placing innovation and technology at the heart of the show, as essential levers for transforming processes and models at every stage of the value chain. The development of new materials and new performance properties is today part of a more systemic approach to how products are produced, processed, used and tracked throughout their life cycle.

Reducing reliance on fossil resources and chemicals, lowering water consumption, pursuing real circularity, and reinforcing physical and digital traceability are all key areas of innovation that the industry represented at Première Vision is addressing via a global and coordinated approach.


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