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FEATURES
THE 10 MOST INTRIGUING PEOPLE IN MAINE: \bb\Spector,MarkI.eClair,SusanPoulin. BarnDana.KarenBaldacci.JoshHancock, ManAliceDavis.AbdullahiAvanle. IonsCastro,JenniferFinncsBosIan BvRobertBlech).DianeHudson, andChrisBushs
BUBBA'S IS NOT SO SULKY ANYMORE \ncssgenerationdiscoscrs Bubba'sSulksLounge BsChrisBusbs
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ACTIVIST
AtthebeginningofTheSnowsofKilimanjaro.ErnestIlemingwaymakesnoteofa snowleopardwhoclimbedsohighupthemountainnooneknowshowitgot there.Mainehasnothingso"aggressivelyentertaining.âButwedohavethe Northern Bog Lemming.
The Northern Bog Lemming(synaptomysborealis)hasbecomeanunlikelycause celebrehere,lostintheslipstreamofafightweMainersarcha\ingaboutwindpower. Thatâsright,nowthatweâvefinisheddemonstratingaboutSeabrookandMaineYankee, weretiltingatwindmills.
OneoftheobjectionstoinstitutingwindfarmsinMainehastodowiththe NorthernBogLemming,athreatenedspecieswhichmightbefurtherendangered anddisplacedbyconstructionifgiant windcatchersareerectedasplanned highuponamountainrangenear ReddingtonTownship.
[Theotherobjectionisthatthegreat windvaneswouldspoilviewsfromthe AppalachianTrail,eventhoughtourists lineupandpavtoseesimilarsightsin Quebec.OffshoreCapeCodwillsoon sportanenormouswindfarm,visible fromthesanddunes.WTndpowerissurgin: intobeingnowthatitâsdroppedto4centsa kilowatttodevelopfrom30centsafewyearsago.]
IfsoudonâtknowwhataNorthernBogI^mininglookslike,justtakethebottleofJack DanielâsawavfromaSouthernBogLemmingandgiveitalookofcosmicirony.Because 1understandthetwomammalsarealmostindistinguishable.Iliewindmillsthatwould replacethemare360feethigh.NorthernBogLemmingshavetostretchtoreachfixe inchesandnewerweighmorethan60grams,drippingwet.
Thevlovewet,mushvplacesathighaltitudes.
NorthernBogLemmingsareconsidered'threatened'bytheStateDepartmentot InlandfisheriesandWildlifebecausetheyâvebeenseeninonlythreeplacesuphere duringthelasteentun.bindingoneisliketryingtocatchPanchoVilla:âOnewas reportedbelowCaribouSpringonKatahdinin1902andanotherinthesamespotin 1985,âtheEish&â˘Wildlifewebsitesays.âAnotherwascapturednearNesowadenhunk EicldinBaxterStatePark[recently].TwomorehavebeensightedinReddington Township,"onReddingtonMountain,wheretheywanttoconstructandoperatethe windfarm.Andthatâstherub.IâdnewerevenheardoftheNorthernBogLemming.But nowthatIâmbeingtoldImightnewerseeonemyself,Ifeelastrangesenseoflossand evenfeelalittleprotectiveofthecritters.Inspiteofthis.Isuspectthatâsnotgoingtomake anvdifferencetothelittleguys,whetherthereâscleanpoweraroundusornot.
Liketherestofus,Maineâslemmings,itappears,prefertotravelindependently.

COLIN SARGENT editor & publisher
PHOTO BY JIM REICHEL
POLAND

ARTIST )
EmotionalArtist
1justwantedtosaythanks[âT,motional 1andsca]x?s,âbyIanceTapley,Septemlx.T 2003,coverbvW.K.RexnoklsAAssociates], lAcnonedidagreatjobwiththearticle.AIv workl<x>ksfantasticinthelavout.and1just wantedtoletsouknow1appreciateit.Itâs evenwhereandI'mlosingit.AIvmother boughtabiggerpursesothatshecouldcam' itwithher!IJgh!Youshouldhireherto promotethemagazine.Ofcoursesou wouldhavetofeaturemeonceamonthfor ittowork.
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Lisa's Mom
Iwanttothankyouforthegreatjob thatwasdonelormvdaughter's[Lisa Pixleyâs!pictureandstoryonthefront coverofsourmagazine.Thanksou.
CathleenJ.Carr(Lisaâsmom) Winsted.Connecticut
Wyeth's Wyeths AndrewWveth'spaintings["WyethsWveths,âbyColinSargent,Julv/August2003] areabsolutelymagnificent.Iespeciallylove Otherworld.'lineartisalw;wstimeless. 1hankvoufortheunforgettableglimpse. SarahPacheco sarahpacheco^email.msn.com
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AsalongtimereaderIwanttotakeaminÂŹ utetosavmamcongratulations!Wliilc travelinginNewYorkCitv(September2910)itwasnicetosee PORTIAW Maca/JM: onsaleatanewsstand/coffeeshopinSolIo. Keepupthegoodwork!
MarkXakos Manchester,NewIlampshire letters
LetterstotheEditor:editor@Dortlandntonthly.com
OTHERWORLD 2002. TEMPERA ON PANEL. 30.5 X 47.75 IN PRIVATE COLLECTION ANDREW WYETH

PORTLAND MAGAZINE
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NewsstandCorerDate:November2003.publishedinOctober2003.Vol.IS.No.S,copyright2003. PORTLANDMAGAZINEismailedatthird-classmailratesinPortland.ME04101(ISSN:1073-185/). OpinionsexpressedinarticlesarethoseofauthorsanddonotrepresenteditorialpositionsofPORTLAND MAGAZINE.Letterstotheeditorarewelcomeandwillbetreatedasunconditionallyassignedfor publicationandcopvrightpuqrosesandassubjecttoPORTLANDMAGAZINEâSunrestrictedrighttoedit andcommentediloriallv.Responsibleonlvforthatportionofamadvertisementwhichisprinted incorrectlv.Advertisersareresponsibletorcopsrightsolmaterialstheysubmit.Nothinginthisissue mavbereprintedinwholeorinpartwithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublishers.Submissions welcome,butwetakenoresponsibilityforunsolicitedmaterials.
PORTLANDMAGAZINEispublished10timesannuallybySargentPublishing.Inc..722Congress Street,Portland,Maine,withnewsstandcorerdatesofWinterguide.Eebruan/March.April,.May, Snmmcrguidc,Juh/August,September.October.November,andDecember.
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WhenCcmoklNisiusopensthecardoorandsavs,â1,etâsgo foralittledrive"inhisunusualaccent-amixtureofMainerand German,Ihesitate.Butthedarkgreenpaintjobsparklesinthe sun,andtheleatherseatsbeckon.âThisisaoncein-a-lifetimechancetoride Mercedes 280SL convertible,âItell myself.1getin.
Asowner,mechanic, andsoleemployeeofSI. lechonRouteIinArundel, Nisius,43,makesa1ivingrestoring Mercedes-Benz240/250and280SLmodels.Theseraresportscars cameofftheassemblylineonhbetween1963and1971,and Nisiussays, âThevârcgaining popularitywith peoplewhogrew upinthe1960sâ -theAngie Dickinsonyears. âAneighboror parentmavhave drivenone. sparkingthe desire."SI, comediblesare alsoredhotduetorecentstarturnsinLifeorSomethingLikeIt, withAngelinaJolie;KillingMeSoftly,withHeatherGrahamand JosephFiennes;andIntersection,starringRichardGere. In1988,NisiuslandedinnearbyLimerick,Maine,fromTrier inSouthwesternGermany.By1990heâdfoundedSI/Tech. Insidetheshop[nearArundelFord],threecarsawaitinvarious stagesofrestoration;oneisaskeletonwithitsenginebesideit. âRestorationwillcostthisowneruptoS200.000,âNisiussavs. z\nothcrSLâshoodiscoveredwithpads,tools,rags.Thetrunk seemstobehisfilefolder.âIusethisoneforadesk.âIdropall pretenseofreservewhenIsecthethirdcar,andhickilvitâstheone wetakeforadrive.Inall,15MercedesSLcomediblesarclined upoutside,rangingfromsmashed-upshellsusedforpadstothe finishedproduct.
Nisiusâsbusinessissomethingofamysterytolocals."Someone inWellscouldownoneofthesecarsandnotevenknowIâm rightdownthestreet,butcarsarcshippedtomefromplaceslike 1âexas...Peoplewiththesecars,thevfindme.âhesass.Recently PabloPicassoâsson.Claude,drovea1964230SLPagoda28,000 milesinaracearoundtheworld.âAlienhiswindshieldbrokein Duluth,hecontactedmeforareplacement,"Nisiussavs. Talkaboutâaddedvalueâ:aswezoomaroundtheblock,Nisius

claimsthecostofrestorationistwicethe worthofthecar.âBuythemostexpensivecarsoucan afford;between$35,000and$70,000,"headvises.
[RecenteBaybuy-it-nowop]x>rtunitics:$39,000and$26,000.[ "'llienbringittometorestore."AlienIshrugmyshoulders,he says,"Iliebitternessofpoorqualitylingerslongafterthesweetness oflowprice.- Katharina1iagmaim
KidneyCars
TheNationalKidneyFoundationofMaineworksvigorouslyto providehealth-careinformation,education,and,tantalizingh... carremovalservices.
Since1969.NKFhasoperatedKidnevGars,whichwill,atno cost,takeyourunwantedvehicleoffyourhands.Evenbetter,von mightbeabletowalkawaywithataxdeductioninexchange. TheNKFbenefitsbysellingthecarsforprofit,eitheratauction orforscrap.
"Mostgotoscrap,"admitsSteveMayberry,executivedirector oftheNKFofMaine.âIhosewcauctiontvpicalkgofor$300 and$600."
Notmuchindividually,buttheNKFin Mainegenerated$80,000lastyearvia KidnevCarsalone. Approximately70percent oftheproceedsbenefit theNKFinsupportof patientandfamilyservices, education,andresearchprograms.
Someauctionsalesarehigher-2001âsrecordwasa199âChew van.originallyfromFalmouth,whichsoldfor$3,700.chasedbva 1993PontiacGrandPrixfromPortlandthatearned$2,900.
Otherstatessecasuperiorbreedofdonatedcars.InFlorida, JaguarconvertiblesandRollsRoycesglidedinthispastyear, whileinNewJersey,ahearse-visionsofHarold<5Manderaisedafewcvebrowsonentryafewmonthsago.
Donatingiseasy(call1-800-488-CARSoratwvw.kidnev.org nationwide).Butyouhavetofollowthreerules:1)thevehicle mustbewhole;2)youmustdiscloseamaccidentsorstructural damage;3)andfinally,youmusthavefulltitle(otherwisevou havethemakingofanâawesomeâofficeprank).- KhiannaDaniels

Norton'sUtility
Forthepasteightdavs1havebeenunabletosee,"complainedDenchImpressionistI'klgarDegas(1834-1917)aboutthefading visionthathauntedhisfinalscars.Andwhen1havenotworkedforafewhours,1feelguilty,stupid,unworthy.âOnthissideofthe pond.LouisI).Nortonâs(1868-1940)evesightwaslettinghimdownaswell.AgraduateoftheRhodeIslandSchoolofDesignand veteranoftheParisianartscene,NortonpaintedinatinystudioinKennebunkport,wherehismarshyviewsofTurbatsCreekinspired himformorethan30vears.In1935,brokenheartedattheprospectofneverseeingthesceneryaroundhisstudioagain,hecoveredhis shack'swallsandceilingwithelaboratemuralstobringhissurroundingsalittlecloser-indoors.Nortonâs indoormarshesarerenderedinbroadstrokesandcouldbemistakenforhaystackswereitnotforthe turc|uoiseAtlanticweavingbetweenthefingersofland.Intheforeground,starktreetrunksrootedathip levelstretchoverheadandacrosstheshackâsceilings.Behindtheirpinkandorangeleaves,thehousesof Nortonâsneighbors(fishermenwhoadoredhimandandwhoproudlvhunghispastelsintheirshacks)rest ontheirpilings.Iâ,veninthisloosebnishwork,itisclearthattheartisthasmemorizedtheinletsandangles of'lurbatsCreekwithaprecisionborneoflove.Thecloud-spottedskybleedsoverontothestudioâsslanted ceiling,completingNorton'sinteriorlandscape.
Nortonconfronteddeathwithaboldgestureofpreservation;displacinghisstudiotothepublichasrequiredthe same.AfterKennebunkport1listoricalSocietyacquiredNortonâsstudioin1996,theproperty,thesizeofa chickencoop,satinstorageforvearswhilethedirectorspuzzledoverhowtoexhibitit.4hisvear,thevpainstakinglvtransplantedthegravshingledshacktoalotbehindthebamattheirPascoCenterandinstalledalarge windowinonewall,exposingtheotherthree.'1liemuralsarevirtuallyuntouchedandglowthroughtheglass. PaintchipsandpiecesofdriedgrasslitterthefloorasthoughNortonhasjustwalkedout.Peeringintothe studiointhehalf-lightofautumnwhilethewindblowsleavesthroughtheparkinglot, viewerscanlookdirectlvintothispoignantperiodintheartistâslifeand sharehisintimatevision,capturedunderthethreatofitsloss.
YoucanseeNortonâsstudioevenwhenthePascoCenteris closed,butitwouldbeashametomisstheexhibitinside.â/Artists andAuthorsâzAKennebunkport1.egaevâfeaturesworksbv Norton,fellowImpressionistAbbottPullerGraves,poetJohn TownsendTrowbridge,BoothTarkington,MargaretDeland,and otherfamoussonsanddaughtersofKennebunkport.'IliePasco Center,locatedat125NorthStreet,isopenvear-round,Tuesday throughKridav,from10a.m.to4pan.Andwhilevonreintown, lookforNortonâsmuralsinthechildrenâsroomattheGraves MemorialLibrarvonMaineStreet. -KriiaZiiin
BRITA ZITIN
WhiteHorse,DarkPast
TheLipizzanerStallionsperformtheirequestrianballetin Portland November 16 at Cumberland Conntv Civic Center. â Continuinga500-yeartradition,thesewhitebeautiesdanceand1 prance in movements originally meant for the battlefield. 1 AncestorsoftheLipizzanwagedwarforGenghisKhanandlaterâ becamethefamedAndalusianhorseoftheMoors.Afterthedemiseof Moorishrule,theSpanishshippedsomeofthehorsestoItalvand Denmark.ButitwasonastudfarminLipizza.Italv.intheearlv1600s thatthebreedearneditsname.UndertheruleoftheAustrianEmpire, theLipizzanersthrivedashorsesofthe militarvaristocracv.
Afterthefallofthe1lapsburgs,the ItaliansandAustriansdividedthe Lipizzanherd.Duringthedarkvearsof Nazioccupation,theLipizzanersalong withotherfamousbreedswerebroughttogetherto formaâsuperhorse"forIfiller's"supermen."Asthe 1AlliedforcesclosedinontheNazisin1lostau. Czechoslovakia,in1945,theGermanveterinarianat thestudfarmattemptedtonegotiatefortherescueof whathetermedtheâwonderhorses."Inastorvmade famousbyaDisnevmovie,theliberationofthe LipizzanersbyPattonâsSecondCavalnsavedthis j uniquebreedfrompossibleextinctionatthehandsof 1 hungryRussiansoldiers.
Forthis3srdanniversarytouroftheLipizzaner Stallions,producerGaryIashiiiskvhasincorporated newmusic,choreography,androutines.Ifvouarcnot ahorselover,comeforthehistorvlessonandbe dazzledbytheCapriole,Courbette,andInvadeleaps thattheLipizzanersrememberfromtheircolorfulpast |asbattlesteeds.- JanetHlevinx

â Moe.-thefunkyjam-band-returnsIo theStateTheatreNovemberSafter playingtoanenergy-filledcrowdof5.()()() atafreeMonumentSquareconcertthis July.WespokewithMainenativeRob Derhak,bassandvocalsforinoe.,who filledusinonburgers,hippies,andhow todriveinsecondgear:
Wherearevoufrom?
RD:IwasborninDover-Foxcroft.Now IliveinFalmouthwithmvwifeandson. /lowlonghaveyouplayedinAlaine?
RD:Westartedeightscarsago.plaving whereverwecould,atplaceslikeGrannv's andStoneCoast.Irememberopeningfor ChuckleheadandI.eftoverSalmon.
Wheredoyoutakethebandwhen youârebackintown?
RD:Bintliffsforbreakfast.Ilarmonâs LunchinFalmouthhasthebestburgers inthecountry.ForbarsItakethebandto theAlehouseandITeeStreetTaverna. WlienweplayinMaineIgettosleepin myownbed.butthebandusuallystaysat theFastland.
DescribeyourfansattheState.
RD:1lippies,seriousmusicenthusiasts, livemusicrecorders.Anewthingwere doingissellingarecordingoftheshow. Fifteenminutesaftertheshow,thetapeis readyandthelistenercanrelivetheconcert. YourworstmomenttouringinMaine?
RD:Weârecomingbackfromashowat SundayRiverandthetransmissiongoesout onouryellow,diesel,piecc-of-junkcamp busweâvctakenacrossthecountryacouple times.âIllisisbeforeeveryonehadcell phones.WearestrandedincompletedarkÂŹ ness.Finally.1getthebusintosecondgear anddrivefromPolandSpringtoSouthPortÂŹ land...veryslowly!Nowwehaveatourbus, SOitSnotaproblem.- KatharinaHagmann
Iicketsfortheshowwww.hvedtthestate.com
RoadKill
AbullmoosestunsintoPortland'sBack Cove,anurbanoasisoff1-295.WardenJohn McDonaldarrivesat9a.in.andfiresa"cracker shell"tospookthemoose.Butthemoosestaysand thecrowdgrows.Forfivehours.âIhemooseisalwaysin control."warnsMaineDepartmentofInlandFisheriesai WildlifebiologistKeelKemper.PortlandpoliceSgt.Gary1hitcheson triesfenenthtodispersethecrowdsofadultsandchildren.âWerenot leaving!âsomeoneshouts.The1.000lb.animalnearsitsaudience.Policeruleout atranquilizerdartbecauseittakesupto20minutestokickin.âYoudon'twanttosee this.âIhitchesonrepeatsbeforefatallyshootingthemoose.Therippleeffectisswiftand substantial.Someonehadtocalltheshots...shotsheardroundthestate.-Pai l-riedman

Maine:thewaylifeshouldhe.
collectionofinvestmentquality tribalrugsfromPersia,Iran, PakistanandAfganastan. Appealingtotheseasonedrug collectoratattractiveprices.
HuntingHelen O
nOctober25,KennebunkportâslovelyColons-Ilotelshut downfortheregularseason.ButthisNovember,ithas reopenedtoplayhosttothecastandcrewofEmpireEalls, whichhasbookedallofitsroomsforaprotractedstav.Winevenroominthehotel?\\e'rctold"it'sascreenactorsâguild considerationâthateachactorbegivenaseparateroom. MultiplesceneswillbeshothereattheColonv,lendingadash ofclasstoKennebunkâsothersites:GoochâsBeach,whereone sunnyl-'ridayhundredsofcabanaswereputontheedgeofthe beachforascene;Kcnnebunkbookport,whereascenewasshot withRobinWrightPenn;Compliments,wheremuchofthe iridescentlightingandfurniturewillappearinascene;

TheNonantumResort;thesanddunesofftheNâarragansettBv 'IâheSea(seephotos),featuringascenewithIlelenIhint; andNunanâslobsterhutinCapePorpoise,wherea beardedPaulXewmaninvitedalocalintohistrailer forabeerafterascene. bromwhatIunderstand,ourspacewillappear inaflashbacktothestoreinthe1960sasadress shop,andinthesecondwaveofshootingwe willhaveourpresentinventorsandbewhat wearcnow,"saysComplimentsowner DavidBctses.
InMaine
wassuqxised.Ididnâtknowwhattoexpectgoingintoit.1justdidnât wanttomakeafoolofmyself,âsaysMainegolfwunderkindAbby Spector,whoclinchedsecondplaceintheamateurdi\isionofthe 2003GreaterPortlandOpen,heldatRiversideMunicipalGolf Course.Spector,likeprogolferAnnikaSorenstam,foundherselfa triflenervouswhenshewasinvitedtotireall-menâstournament.âTheywerelike,âOh, you'repullingan/Vnnika,âshelaughs.âButtheguyswerereallyniceaboutit.Atthesame timetheywerescaredIdbeatthem.â
Competitioniswhatdrivesher.âThatswhyIlovedplayingintheGreaterPortlandOpen somuch,"savstheseven-timeMaine[Womenâs}Amateurwinner,"becausethatâsthebest competition1â11everface:menpros.
BY ROBERT BLECHL, DIANE HUDSON & CHRIS BUSBY
âMydadstartedmegolfingwhen1wasfour.HewasagrecnskeepcrupinGreenvilleonMooseheadLake-andnobodygoesuptheretoplaygolf.Ihadthewholeplaceto myselfuntilIwaseight!Mydadlearnedrightalongwithmeandknowsexactlywhatheâs lookingatwhenhestudiesmvswing.WheneverIneedatune-upIgobacktohim. Makeafoolofherself?Hardly.TheUniversityofNorthCarolinastarâsunblinking roundsof75,72,and71underintensesenitinyatRisersideprovedherextraordinary talent and stamina yet again. j
âTmlookingforasponsornextsear.Iâmjustwaitingtosecwhen1IIturnpro,shetoldusdaysbeforetragedvstmek.Spector,acompetitorwithsomuchheart,isinthebattleof herlifetorecoxerfromemergencyheartsurgeryOctober4followingaproceduretwodays earliertorepairaholeinherheart.AtThayerHospitalinWaterville,herheartstopped beatingbeforeshewasrevivedandrushedtoMaineMedicalCenterlorfurthertreatment.
âIleartwise,sheâsfine,âherbrotherTobyassuresusatpresstime,"althoughshehassome neurologicalproblems.Nobodyreallyknowsatthispoint[howlongrecoverymighttakej. Possibleayearto1Smonths."


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FOUNDEROFNANOSPIRE,INC.
knewInthetimeIwasinfirstgradeI wantedtobearoeketscientist.And guesswhat?Ibecameone."Nowthe BuxtonresidentisrockingthenanotechnologvworldwithhislatestdiscovÂŹ ery:tinvwaterjets.
"Iâmcreatingthejetsfromaspecial typeofcavitationbubble.Thevtravelat uptoMachIVandhittheirtargetata milepersecond,piercingaholethrough anything.includingadiamond.Youcan drill,machine,orweldwithaprecision potentiallyaccuratetoacouplenanoÂŹ meters.Thiscouldbethefirsttechnology thatcreatesnanobots.Thcvcouldgointo vourbloodstreamandkillcancercells.â
Didn'tHaquelWelchstarinthemovie versiono/thisstoryIFantasticVoyagej,or laterMartinShortinInnerspace?Thisis justthekindofthin"youmightoverhear atStarbucks-exceptit'strue.
"EssentiallywhatIâmdoingisharÂŹ nessingcavitationmicrojets.WeâveharÂŹ nessedcavitationbefore,butnotthe Imicrojet.Thisishistoryinthemaking." hesavswithoutablush.âIfthistechÂŹ nologysucceedsthewaywehope,itâs goingtotransformtheeconomy.
|âWlienIfirststartedthisthing,nobodv Ihadamideahowmuchenergyone ༤cavitationbubblecouldpunch.SoI |aimedthewaterjetatabottlecapsitting atthebottomofaPokemonjellyjar,one Idgrabbedfromoneofmvkids.Thejet wasonlvasthickasahumanhair.It crushedthecapwith70poundsofforce andblewthebottomoffhisjar.IIe waspissed.â
PHOTO COURTESY OF MARK LECLAIR
ACTRESS-COMBI

IâdtakeaFrenchclassandmythroatwould tightenupandIâdstartcryingbecause1wantedto speajfFrenchsobadly.IlostitwhenIwasjustthree p'sold.Itâscomplicatedhowyoulosealanguageandhow agetitback.Thatâswhenwestartedwritingtheplay.â lieweâincludeshusbandGordonCarlisle,andtheplayistheripfoarinâFranco-FryorPardonmyFrench!,whichtheyhaveperfonned towavesofapplauseatHackmatackTheater,DeertreesTheatre,UMaineOronoandPresqueIsle,andisscheduledat^ortlandStage StudioinApril.Itâsmusicalcomedywithabodanovabackbeat;itâs highlyoriginal;anditstrikesthecenteroftiiene&tofMpine, especiallywhenyouconsiderthatnearly6fTpercentQpMainers shareSusanPoulinâsFrancoAmerican4ieritage_|mdmapyofthem wereembarrassedduringeariychildhdodintororgettiflgtheir
heritagelanguagebecauseitwasnâtEnglish.
âItwasdifficulttowritebecause/nadtodig!
i.Itwasscary.
too,becauseIfeltIwasrecreatirfjpnyselfasacomi^writer.Butit mademesmellthesmellsofmy,childhood.TherfioreIlearned aboutwhereIcamefrom,themoreIfeltconnecte^Uomyself.
"TheassimilationprocessforFranco-Americansiydifferent fromthosewhocame^overfromEllisIslan^ftie'^faf'*^ Canada^borderisaflufd.thihg.Youcanbehoniein24hpii^^ Evea-jnoud&wd^ go home, vou know you can.â
HereâsherdrshonFranco-AmericanSpaghetti:âIwassurprised |peoplethoughtofFranco-AmericanSpaghetti,wh heritage,assuchanationalicon.Mysisterhasthat J,witfibabysitting,whichIdidnâtparticularlylikeeither,.blitJ J^efeanco-AmericanSpaghetti.[Researchingfortheshow]I* rememberlaughingwhenIfoupdanadvertise'rom1934 oneBaymatsaid,âFranco-American:trukItali; . Commentestwbefi^jfais?)l tm&acontersa classinSouthBerwidfelâmstillanadvbm^l[>eginne\butthatâs jMjkay.Iâmapprwchingmasahobby.â
info@steinglass.com
Margaret Lawrence FromtheGarden

BARRY DANA, 45 CHIEF,PENOBSCOTNATION
Longbeforethecasinoreferendum cametoavote,itsiowlvdawnedon MainersthatregardlessoftheoutÂŹ comeaclearwinnerhasemergedinthe leadershipofBarrvDana,chiefofthe PenobscotNationandspokespersonfor manvtribes.
OntheeveoftheelectiontheUMaine Oronograduatewasconfident,even sanguine,abouttheprospectsofvictorv: âAtPenobscotitâsgoingtohelpusoxerÂŹ nightbecauseweoperateonashoestring budget.Everythingâscoveredandwe're comfortable,butwedonâthaveenough moneycominginatatriballeveltoset asideforsavings.OurreferendumquesÂŹ tion[numberthree]mandateseducaÂŹ tionalfundingstatewideandalsotax relief.Soalotofpeoplelikethat.â
GrowinguponIndianIslandonthe PenobscotRiverwas"almostaIluckleberryEinnhpcofthing.Iwasoutinthe woodsallthetime,fishing,alotofsports. Jalotofcamping.âAstarrunningback IandsprinteratOldTownHigh-âall-star benchinbasketballâ-hegraduatedfrom UMaineOronowith"abachelorâsin elementaleducationandanassociateâs degreeinforcstrv.Ichoseforcstrv becauseIwantedtoworkoutdoors.â
SoconnectedwashetoPenobscotways thatinhis1Sthvearheventuredaloneto IfastatthetopofMt.Katahdin.ahok placefortheWabanaki.orâPeopleof theDawn.â
DanawasaskedaboutthisriteofpasÂŹ sageinarecentinterviewbyJohnKoch
ofT/ieBostonGlobeMagazine.Askedif heheardthevoiceofCluskabe[ââMan fromNothingâ]ontopofthemountain duringhisriteofpassage,IDanareplied, â1Iejustmumbled.ButIcameoutofthat experienceknowingthatwasmvplace.To reconnectwithlifewastogobackto KatahdinasoftenasIcould."
InMarchof2002,Danawenthigh profilebvbeingthefirstPenobscotchiefto speakinfrontofajointsessionofthestate legislature.âWcopposedthestateâs applicationtoissuepollutionpennitsin Penobscotwaters,âhesass.â'Ibeproblem isnâtstandardsbutenforcement.'Ilie peopleviolatingthelawinfluencethe lawmakers.Ourculture,ourtraditions comefromthisriver.W'chuntandcamp alongit.Ourkidsswiminit.'Ibisriseris ourlife.â
Danahasalsobeenaleaderintherace tosavetherich,andvanishing,PenobÂŹ scotlanguagethatisasfullofspirituality asitisofhistory.
Whenheaddresseshistribeonthe internet,heinvariablycloseswithhis nameandhistitleinPenobscot, âpenawahpskewisakama.â
Itsoundslikefun,exceptwhensouârc trsiugtoholdvolatileconstituencies togetherinthe21stcentury."Youcanend updoingsomethingthatwillbenefitthe majority,butyouâllalwaysbasethatminorÂŹ itythatisupset.Andifvoucatertothe minoritythensouâllhavethemajorityupset. Iâvealwaysbeenidealistic,livingtoplease allthepeople.
âIntoday'smodernlifewecancnjovlV butcanstillhaveourgardensanduse nativemethodsofgrowingfoodandhunt andbaseagooddiet.Ithinkweneedto takeaseriouslookathowwereproducing energy.Insteadofsupplementingthe petroleumindustrytothetuneof$80 billionayearwecanthrowsomeofthat moneyaroundandsubsidizeXlainepaper millssothevcanproducepaperinan environmentallysoundmannerandclose theloopon]x>llution.â
Toskimacrosstheclearwatersthat mightbenefitfromsuchadvocacy,the Penobscotshaverecentlyconstructedtwo birchbarkcanoestoplvanancienttrade: âIhcyârcgorgeous,"hereports."Thev havenâtbeenmadeherefor60sears.â
Sure,buthowdurablearcthevtodav, intheageoffiberglass?
Danaknowshishistorybvheart: âTherewasonefamilythafdbeen usingthesamecanoefor150sears."
Est.1989
âMAINE'S MUSEâ Subscribe Now thecafE review 589ConeressStreet Poriland7ME04101 svww.thecafereview'.com

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MAINE'SFIRSTLADY
hatâsitlikeforKarenBaldacciwifeofGov.JohnBaldacci-to helearningtheropesofbeing Maineâsfirstlady,assumingropeshate anythingtodowiththeprocessalall?
âAlotofitreliesonthatYankeeinÂŹ genuityandself-sufficiencythatweas Mainershateanvwav."shesavs.
âForthefirstsixmonths1maintained my[kindergarten|teachingjob.It allowedmeIotakealookatthisoffice thattheycalltheâfirstladv.âItdoesn't comexxithabudgetorjobdescription,so yourcbasicallyonvourowntodevelop yourinitiativeworkanddefinetherole youâregoingtoplax.
â1stillseemvselfasaneducator,only

Maine.Alotofitisraisingawareness aboutissues.IntheMarchofDimes,the firstinitiativeItookonwasfortheprevÂŹ entionofbirthdefects.Andl\crecently partneredupwiththeDepartmentof /Agriculturetotryandraisevisibilityof Mainefarmers.Itâsacampaignto helpsupportourlocaleconomics andfanners.â
Shesoundsprettyconfidentabout Yankeeingenuity.âWhetherit'sthe economyandfindinggoodjobs,health careforallcitizens,orraising aspirationsamongourchildrenas scholarssotlievnotonlystavinMaine, butmakeitaplacewherewecanlive andgrowandlearn:Itâseasiersaid thandone.
From left Karen Baldacci. Gov John Baldacci, Jack Baldacci. 12. with Springer Spaniels Murphy and Sam PHOTOS COURTESY OF KAREN BALDACCI

SHIFTING GEARS WITH JOSH HANCOCK, 45
IHISTORYCHANNELSTAR
tâsasafebetthatbackwhenJosh 1lancockwasakid.toolingaround thebackroadsofsouthernMaine,he neverimaginedheâdonedavbehelping theworldâspreeminentdirectorsand hottestmoviestarspickouttheirrides, muchlessbedrivingthesametowork.
Butthat'sjustwhat1lancock.a45-vearoldnativeofYork,docsthesedavs-and much more.
Sincetheearly1990s,Ilancockhas beenlivingin1osAngeles,workingasa consultantonfilmssuchasCasino. MissionImpossible2.andthethree AustinPowersmovies.IIeâstheman directorscallinwhenthevneedtheright cartofitthescript.
"Ilookatitfromapopularculture perspective,"IlancocksaysfromhisI,.A. office,"thecarasart.thecarasprop,the carascharacter-driven.Idonâtknow anyoneelsewholooksatscriptsthatwav.â
Ilancockfoundhisnichethrougha combinationofluck,skill,andpure chutzpah.IIejustshowedupontheset ofthe1990filmWhitePalace,aromance starringSusanSarandonandJames Spader,andconvincedthefilmmakersto hirehimasastuntdriver.Thevsoon madehimaconsultantonthatmovie andothers,andheâsbeenfillingthatrole inIlollvwoodeversince.
Ofcourse,beforeacustomizedcarrolls ontotheset,someonehastotakeitfora testspin.1lancockgetstodothat.too.
1Ieâshadsomeinterestingexperiences cruisingaroundinAustinPowersâsJagÂŹ uars(makethatâShaguars.âasPowers wouldsav).Duringproductionforthe firstAustinPowersmovie.he'ddrivethe JaguarXKEhome.Sincethefilmhadvet tohitthebigscreen,hedidn'tturntoo manyheadsinL.A.âItâsjustagreatJag
/ blue vintage vase with ranunculusx ( By Morgan McNaboe. 2003 J
VourFloorDeseruesTile!

â˘ConvenientlylocatedneartheOldPort
â˘FireplacesinBedroomSuites
â˘z\ward-winningHistoricRestoration
â˘MeetingsandFunctionFacility
â˘BilliardRoom
â˘Smoke-free
â˘Health-clubaffiliation
â˘Warm,intimatesurroundingswhile prosidingprivacy
â˘Leisure&businesstravelers welcome
withaBritishflagpaintedonit."hesays.
ButbvthetimethesecondPowers installmentcameout,"Iwouldgetchased downthestreetinthatcar,âhesays."I'd pulltipatastoplightandpeoplewanted theirpicturetakennexttothecar."
Ilancockoncedroveâthepimpmc> bile."thecustomizedCadillacfrom Goldinember,down1lolkwoodBoulÂŹ evard."ThatwasavenfunnynightbeÂŹ causeofwhatcameoutofthewoodwork, peoplethinkingitwasarealpimpcar.â
Thesedavs.1lancockisinfrontofthe cameras,aswell.1Ie'sthehostandco executiveproducerofShiftingGears,a newshowonTheIlistorvChannel. ShiftingGears,whichairsSaturdaysat 6:30p.m..combineseducationalseg-
incutsonthehistoryofearswithenterÂŹ tainingbitsexploringpeople'srelaÂŹ tionshipswiththem.
Inonesegment,Ilaneoeksaxs,"Wedo anâautomakeoverâwithasuburban housewife.WeputherintheAustin PowersXK8[thelatestPowersJag]andlet herdrivehiscarforafewdays.It'spretty tunnvhowitchangesherandherkids.â
Onethingthat'simpressedIlaneoekin thecourseofhisworkonShiftingGain:is howâinevencornerofthecountry.and inevensmalltown,kidsaspiretocars.
"InWichita.Kansas,whenahighÂŹ schoolseniorgetsinaMustangCP convertible,thevârcasexcitedasthehigh schoolseniorinBeverlv11illswhogetsin aMustangGTconvertible,âhesays."Itâs

notaregionalthing."
Mainedoes,however,haveitsown uniquecarculture."InMaine,thecars havetoworkasatool,butpeoplefallin lovevviththemlikeagoldenretriever.â Ilaneoekremembersseeingfishermen whodrovedieselPeugeotstationwagons inpartbecausetheyadmiredthedurabilÂŹ ityoftheengine.
Accordingtothehost^ShiftingGears, fordrivinginXlainc.nothingbeatsthe backroads."Itsnotthecoastroads."he savs."Ihevârenice,butvourunintotoo manytourists,andthereâstoomanycops onâem.''(Anironicobservation:Ilaneoek learnedhowtodrivefromhisuncle,retired MaineStateTrooperWilliamIlaneoek.)
âWhenIwasgrowingupinYork,you
couldgetanvwhereifvouknewtheback roads.âhesavs."Youneverranintocops oranvbodv.Iusedtosneakthroughthe woodstogettoaroadthatwouldgetme toanotherroad.Youcandriveoutthere forever.Itâsvourownworld.â
Ilaneoekdoesnâthaveafavoritecar,per se. Itdependswhereheâsdriving.
"Ilovetheindigenousvalueofcars,"he savs."IfIâmonthebackroadsinMaine,I wantthebestSIA'four-wheel-driveIcan have,asmuchasIwantaJaguarXKRon thehighwaygoingtoPalmSprings.'Iliecar hastosuitwhereyouâregoingtodriveit.
âIusedtokickaroundinmvuncleâs ScoutinthewoodsofMaine.âheadds. âItwasbare-boncs.butvoucouldnot stopit.- Chrisliusln

MARY ALICE DAVIS, 58 SHAW'SSUPERMARKETHEIRESS
Iâvebeenlookingforaplacetoburv mvhusband-heâsinanurnherein thehouse-itâsagoodideaforhimto haveaplaceandbememorialized.z\ cemetervâsdesperatclvneeded.Eventhe townitselfadmittedthereâsahorrible shortageofcemeteryspace."
1lowardHaris,founderoftheShaw's Supermarketempire,diedeightyears ago,buthiswidow,OregonnativeManAliceDavis,keepsupthefightagainst thetownofEalmouth,whichsheclaims isouttosnatchagoodchunkofher180acrepropertv.
BalkingaroundsomeoftheveryconÂŹ servativeneighborsofâtheladyfromaway,â thetownensuredthatDavisâsfirstproposal tosubdivideherproperty-a24-acrc,12-lot parcel-wentdowninflames.SoDavis, rankledatbeingcalleda'golddigger,â cameupwiththecemeteryidea,possibly asachillingtoasttothosearoundher.
âI'manunwillingpropertv-rights activist.MyhusbandandIneverthought thatbuildingthishomehereonthis beautifullandwouldmeanthatweâdbe stuckfortherestofourlivestryingto keepourlandfrombeingstolen.'Iliev donâtwantthelandtogotoheirs.â
IlowdidshefillhertimepriortoactivÂŹ ism?"Ienjovgardeningandtraveling.I havehomeinArizonaandIhaveahome inMissionViejo,California.1alsohada homeinMexico.â
Davisattendedcosmctologvschoolin Oregon,workedinhairdressingandreal estate,andevenownedasmalltelephone
company.Sheli\cdinArizonafor30tears: thatâswhereshemetherlatehusband.âI hadnoideawhohewas...wcjustfellin lovewhenwesaweachother.1Iewas60 whenhedied.Hewasdiagnosedwithbrain canceraroundChristinasof1995anddied January17.1996.1couldn'tbelieveonly twoweekshadgoneby.Itwasdevastating."
Wliat'sherlifelikenow?â1liketocollect art,butlatelyIâvebeendefendingpersonal propertyrights.Peopleareinvitingmeto speakonthisparticularsubject.Iputouta journal-OurPropertyRights-andPm alsoorganizingwithmajorpropertv-rights activistsacrossthenation."
Nowthatthecemeteryhasbeenvoted down,too...
"IllbeherefightingawawIfl[ever]get mycemeteryin.itwillbeanabsolutely beautifulrestingplace.â

Afterexploringroomuponroomoffine woodfurniture,youâllwantacomfortable placetosit.Wehavejustthespot,along
withdiningroomtables,bookcases,bureaus, entertainmentcenters,benchesandmore, includingChilton'sShakerCollection.
Underappreciated, underfunded,and unheralded,Abdullahi AyanleledPortland's MaineAtlanticStars totheNewEngland Championship.
ABDULLAHI AYANLE, 27 HEADCOACH,MAINEATLANTICSTARS
Thevwantedtoshowuswecould lose.Thevbroughtouttheirbest plawrs.butwetiedthemup."
Whatâwe"tiedupwasthelââriendship (lame,inAugust,whenMaineâsnew soccerstarsbattleditoutinBostonwith all-starsfromsewnotherteamsinthe Somali-AmericanSoccerLeague.Aweek beforethat.AbdullahiAvanlcsMaine teamhadwontheleaguechcnnpionsliifj. Nottooshabbvforateamthatâsonly beenaroundtworears.lackedofficial uniforms,andhadtobesuppliedwiththe

busestogetdownthere.
"Thebossarcreallrhappr.Thevcanât believethevcouldbeinthisposition."
Attributeittosweatanddetermination. âMostoftheboyswork,sowepractice evenweekendandafterwork.1âhcbigÂŹ gestproblemiswedon'thavemanyfields aroundherewherewecanplayallthe
lime.I'mtningtogetanindoorfieldfor thewintertime.
"Sincewewonthechampionshipwere seenalotofsupportfortheteam,alotof olderpeoplesupportingus.Itmotivates thekidssotheycandobetter."
Sohavingwonallthemarbles,howcan theseunderdogstoptheirstunning

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Timefliesbyquickly,butyourthoughtfulnesswillalways beremembered.Commemorateaspecialoccasionwithan EtchedClass KhvL Everypieceishandblownandhand finishedbySimonPearcemasterglassblowers.Itâsthe perfectgiftforweddings,anniversaries,retirementorcorÂŹ porategiving...aclearexampleofyourimpeccabletaste.
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Itâsvcnrsatisfyingtosecsomething comebacktolife.â'IhatâstheinspirÂŹ ationforConnecticutnativeTony Castro,ofToneCastro&'Company, whoseunusualtalentshavevaultedhis firmfromâgeneralpaintingâtotheresÂŹ torationofdecorativemasterpieces,with hislargecanvasessomeofthemostgiltedged.swoopingceilings,galleries,and corbelsknowntothePineTreeState, fromourballroomstoourtheaterstoour pinecone-festoonedgovernmentpalaces. ThankstoCastrothereâsanewglowto theceilingandwallmuralsintheBlaine 1louse.NorlandsLiving1listorvCenter, theBowdoinChapelatBowdoinColÂŹ lege,theTheateratMonmouth,Bidde-
Portland Mqiort
fordCityTheater(seeabosc-anundcrappreciatedbeautydesignedbsjohn CalsinStesens),sariousprisatehomes, and"inthelast16years,probabk16or 1/churches.
âTheaseragelargepublicbuildingtspe ofhallceilingisusualls-athree-orfourmonthrestoration.It'soneasearwith thesebigjobs.â
Castrosaysallofthisbelossthedancing goldsandaquamarinesoftheBiddeford CityâIheaterceiling,hismostrecentproject.
"AtleastSt)percentofthessorkis cleaning,uncovering,andstabilizingthe oldssork.Theother10or15percentis doingourossnpaintingtofillinthe blanks.Iftheoriginaldecorationisstill

showing,thenit's;imatterofeleaning andrepairinganylooseplasterand replacinganymissingartwork.Ifthe artworkhasbeenpaintedoverthensou removetheoverpaintanddignpthe artifacts,sotospeak.Itâsalmostlikean archaeologicaldig.Yonfindthelaserthat hasthedecorationonit.Evenjobhasits ownsetofrules.It'sachallengeandsen experimental.Yongobvgntfeelinga lottimes.â
Sojusthowsatisfyingisittorescallost beauty[svithateamthatincludessour daughter,MaritaKennedy-Castro,right]? ââItâstheideaofsomethinggoingfrom decrepittogorgeous.Igetthesamethrill outofitthatcsersbodselsedoes."
_â"Itâstheideaof |fsomethinggoingfrom decrepittogorgeous..."


JenBoylan,45
AAUTHOR,SHE'SNOTTHERE
tearago.whenJanies1âinnev BoiIanreturnedhomefromhis workasco-chairoftheEnglish DepartmentatColbyCollege,hewas greetedbvhischildrenasâDaddv.âNow it'sâMaddy."
ProfessorBovlanhadasex-change operationandanamechange,toJenÂŹ niferFinneyBoylan.RemainingtechÂŹ nicallymarriedtoherpartner.Grace, Boylancontinuesinfamiklife,enjoying herchildrenLuke,9,andPatrick,7.
WhatmakesBoylanuniqueintheworld oftransgendersurgeryisthat,asJames,he haswrittensevennovels,andthat,as Jennifer,fameandacclaimhavegreeted herlatestbook.She'sXotâthere.theston ofherlifeleadinguptothedecisionto changesexandtheripplesofdiscoven thathaveexpandedtoincludeusall. Ithasnothurtintheworldofpublishing andpublicitythatBoylanisacolleague andclosefriendofRichardRusso,the authorwhosePulitzerPrize-winning novel.EmpireEdits,iscurrentlybeing madeintoamoviestarringPaulNewman. ButitisBoilanâsinsights,frankness, andliterarytalentthathavemadeShe's

NotThereanationalsuccessandcaught everyoneoffguard.
WhatâsthesignificanceofthetitleSheâs SlotThere?1mean,youârehere.
JB:hirst,theZombiesâsongofthesame nameisacurrentrefrain,anditweaves inandoutofthebook.Secondly,itrefers tothefirsthalfofmylife,whenIwas apparcntlvmalebutawomanspiritually. Andfinally,the'she'whoislostisawife. AlthoughGraceand1remaintogetheras afamilv,whenallissaidanddone,welost themarriageofhusbandandwife,andso, attheend,itâsawifewhois"notthere.â Whatisvourfavoritethingaboutbeing a woman?
JB:WhatIlovemostisasenseoftranquilih,offitting,ofbeingatpeace.Bearin mindthatchanginggendersisnot somethingvoudobecauseyouwanta "betterdeal.â'I'hereareplentyofthings aboutbeingfemalethatareharderthan beingmale.What1likebestisthatforthe firsttimeIhavewhateveryotherwoman hasâtheabilihtowakeupinthemornÂŹ ingandNOTthinkaboutmvgender. Whatdoes'famesâmissthemost?
JB:Pockets.
'Iâhatonelineraside,IalsomissacerÂŹ tainsenseofinvulnerabilitythattestosÂŹ teronebrings.Thingsgetundermyskin aloteasiernow.As1writeinthebook,I lovethefreedomoftears,butitisunÂŹ nervinghowclosethevlietothesurface. Doyouseeanydifferenceintheway studentsrelatetovou.asawoman?
JB:Absolutely.Mystudentsnolonger seemequitesomuchasanauthority figure.1usedtobeabletogointoaroom andstarttalkingandstudentswouldwrite italldown.Now,inthesamelecture,they arelikelvtoraiseahandandask,âAreyou
sureaboutthis?âItalsomeansthatitâsa littleeasiertogetadiscussiongoing. hiyourdreamsdoyouappearasa youngerversionofvourself,orasyoudo now?Remember,asawomanvonwould befacingmenopauseinafewyears.
JB:Mvdreamsareaboutascrazyas anyoneclscâs.UsuallyIamfemaleand mvsclf,atmsâcurrentage(45).
Youmentionedbeingattractedtomen; are you availablefordating?Andhow doesthisfitintoyourfamilylife?
JB:Withallduerespect,thisisnoone's business.
z\sawriter,do you feelthereareessenÂŹ tiallymasculineandfemininefonnsof writing?Oftenwritersleavecluesabout theirgenderintheirwriting.Ilowhasvour writingbeenaffected?
JB:Wehavetobesencarefulthatwe understandthedifferencebetween"masÂŹ culineandfeminine"and"maleand female.âThereareplentyof"masculine" writersâsomeofthemarewomen.Iâd singleoutI,orricMooreasanexample, andinthesamebreathIâllnotethatshe isoneofmvfavoritewriters.Thereare "feminineâwriterstoo,ofcourse,both maleandfemale;amongfemalesIdonât imagineonecoulddobetterthanAlice Munro.Ifweknowanythingabout transsexuality,itâsthatit'saboutmaleness andfemaleness,notmasculinityand femininity.Onedoesnotbecomea womaninordertocenteroneâslife aroundhighheelsandspongecake;one becomesawomanbecauseitisan essentialfact.AsawriterIthinkmv writinghaschangedovertime.The differencebetweenmyworkasJames andmvworkasJennyisprobablyless aboutthedifferencebetweenamanand awomans writingâ whateverthat might mean â thanitisthe difference betweena votingperson andamiddleagedone.I thinkmy writingisless manicnow,less aggressively entertaining. Butthismaxbe forreasonsother thangender.

fLushholidayplants,fragrantgarlands,andsprightlywreaths. Bringthebestoftheseasonintoyourhome:poinsettias, ?holly,andbalsamfir.Selectfromanabundantassortmentof beautifullycultivatedtrees,andvisitouremporiumpacked withhundredsofornamentsandinspiredgiftideas.Bringthe spiritoftheseasonintoyourhomeinahundredfestiveways. AND
One hour has never meant somuch!Askushowyour teethcanbe10shades whiterinjustonehour. Restoreyoursmiletoits naturalluster.Rembrandt LightningGelhas been clinicallyproventowhiten teethanaverageof10 shadesinonehour. Itissafeandformulated topreventsensitivity.

Didvoueverconsidertakingmale honnonesinsteadoffemale?
JB:Takingmalehormoneswouldhave donenothing.Ialreadywasbiologically male;myproblemwasaproblemofsoul, and(hereisnopillforthat.Thequestion seemstoimpkthatifIhadtakenmale hormones,Iwouldhavebeenmore contenttobeamanorsomething.Mv problemwasnotaboutashortageof hormones;mvproblemwasthatmvsoul didnotmatchmvbodv.
Istherea"beforeCrafter"characterto yourtransformationthatisgreaterthan anyotherchangeinyourlife?Wasvour surgeryaclimaxorananti-climax comparedtootherdefiningmoments?
JB:Itsimportanttounderstandgender transitionasavenslowprocess.There wasnotonedas'whentheworldbecame suddenlydifferent.'Ihesurgery,forwhat itâsworth,istheleastimportantaspectof thetransition.Iwoulddescribeitasan "anti-climax."Still,Ihaditanditenables metosimplymoveaboutmorepeacefully intheworld.Thesurgery,bythewas;is incrediblyeffective;IIrasebeentoatleast onedoctorsincesurgenwhocouldnot tellthedifference,andwhodidnotknow. AsKateBornsteinobserved,âthepluml> ingworks,andsodoestheelectricitv.â
Doyouhaveawalk-oninEmpireFalls?
JB:IbasenoexpectationstobeinÂŹ volvedintheEmpireFallsfilm,other thantositintheaudienceonopening nightandbeproudofmvfriendRusso.I havenotreadthescript,butIknowthat thenovelisoneofthebestworksof fictioneverwrittenbvambodv.period. Ilavevourprofessionalaspirationschanged?
JB:Myprofessionalaspirationshavenot changed;aftermy15minutesoffameare over(and1thinkIâmonminute14about now).Ihopetocontinuedoingallofthe things1havealwaysdone:toteachEngÂŹ lish.preferablyatColbvCollege,towork withvotingwritersontheirfictionand screenplays,tohelpColbystudents discoverthejovsoffictionanddrama andpoctn.
Intheeditedversionsofsomeofthe interviewsvotivegiven,vourresponses seemtohavebeenreducedtocleversound bitesthatcomeoffmorelikewomenhashing(e.g..âAmansteppedonmytoe andIapologizedâ)thanactualfeeling. Ilowdoestherealityofyourexperience differfromthesequips?
JB:âIhisquestionseemsalittleloaded,if youdonâtmindmvsaving.Ilseemsto
suggestthatwomendonât,oroughtnot,have asenseofhumor.Ithinkwomenhavecvcrv righttoexercisetheircomicimaginationsas mendo.Inshort,anvrevolutionthathasno placeforjovorcomedvisone1donâtwantto bepartof.Itispropertounderstandthe functionofhumorinthiscontext.Mvdesire istoputpeopleateaseconcerningasubject thattheymightfindoff-putting,ordeadk serious.WhenIsaxâthatIapologizedwhen amansteppedonmyfoot,itisfactâthis didhappen.Moreimportantly,though,I thinkwomenrecognizethatthereisan essentialtruthinthissituationâwhichis thatwomenalltoooftenfindthemselves apologizingforwhatisnottheirfaultâto bedeflecting,tobedemure,tobeinofÂŹ fensive.lliescarethingswhichwomen recognizeastrue;thatâswlwwomenlaugh whenItellthisstorv.Butwomenarenot laughingbecausethisisaquip,orbecause itisâclever.âWomenlaughbecausethis reflectswhatis,attimes,thecomplexand difficultrealityofourlives.Itismvhope thatthisisatruththatwillchangeintime.
Comedvandtragedvaretwocontainers forthesamematerial,andgiventhecomplcxihofhumanexperience,thetwofonns oftenarejustaheartbeataway.Ithinkitisa vervinterestingandurgentplacetobefora writer,betweenwhatisfunnyandwhatis scaryorsad.1haveheardfromanumberof readerswhohavefoundthebookverv funny;Ihaveheardfromjustasmanywho saiditactuallvmovedthemtotears.Ina coupleofinstances,thesereaderswere referringtothesamepassage. Comedvisameansofexpressingvencomplexemotions.Ibelieve,emotions thatoftenlietoodeepfortears.
-InterviewbvDianeHudson

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hefirstthingyoushould knowaboutBubbaâsSulky Loungeisthatitâssafetogo there.Hiesecondthingyou shouldknowisthattherearcfew bars,ifany,asoddandas comfortableasBubbaâs.
LocatedonPortlandStreet acrossfromthemainpostoffice, Bubbaâsiscommonly,and unfairly,associatedwithRockinâ RickeyâsTavern,itsaptlynamed next-doorneighbor.
Infact,thesceneatBubbaâsis
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considerablymoresedate.Most morningsandafternoons,youmight evensayitâssulky,butBubbaâsisa welcomingplacebydayornight.CPhc termreferstothetwo-whcclcdcarts riddeninharnessracing;Bubbaownsa dozenhorsesthatrunatScarborough Downsandelsewhere.)
TheZodiacPartiesthepair putonthethirdThursday ofeverymonthhave becomeparticularly popular.Inadditionto dancingtohip-hopand housemusic,attendees cangetastrological readingsandtakeinthe visualeffectsHart,a.k.a. digitaldori,produces.
Thestaffandregularsarefriendlyâ âquickwithajokeoralightofyour smoke,âsotospeak,thoughitâsprobably adirtyjoke,andthebarcangetabit smokysometimes.
RobertâBubbaâLarkin,theproprietor since1959,isanantiquefreak.Evenroomofhissizeableestablishmentis stuffedwithcuriositiesfromthepast centrin'andbeyond.
Thewallsarecrowdedwithhundreds ofoldpaintings,posters,portraits,ads, andsignsannouncingthingslike âKickapooIndianOil,âorjust âRhubarb.â'llicrcâshalf-an-arkâsworthof
taxidermy,too.
Earlyradios,thebigwoodenfloor modelsfamiliesgatheredroundinpre'IVdavstofollowtheexploitsofBuck RogersandThe1,oncRanger,stand everywhere.Harkinthinkshemavhave 50,somestillfunctional.
Oldbicyclesandlittleredwagons hangfromtheceilings.Everylamp isunique.Mvfavoritehasalittle waterwheelinitsbasethatspinsasdro]> letsofmineraloilcreepdownstrands strungallaroundit.
\lanvofthesepiecesarearrangedin tableauxsetupinthebarscornersand crannies.Eorexample,thereâsthebarÂŹ bershopcompletewithaspinningbarÂŹ berâspole,abottleofpureturpentine, andaposteradvertisingthe1938heavyÂŹ weightchampionshipboutbetweenJoe LouisandMaxSchmcling.1950s-era sodashopissetupinanotherroom.A

signhereadvertisestheSwissSteak Dinner,withâspicevgravy,mashed potatoes,onevegetable,rollandbutter," for79cents.
Everydisplayisloadedwithlittledetails likethat,andpatronsarefreetowander aroundanddiscoverthem.Amongthe dozensofyellowedcorrespondenceskept behindthefrostedwindowoftheâpost office,"1foundonepostmarkedApril23. 1909,addressedtoMissGrace Wavmouthof"Sunset,Meââapparently alltheinformationthepostmaster neededbackthen."DearGrace,âbegins AuntLizzyâspostcardofTukevâsBridge. "Ihavevourbuttonsshallsendvona littleexpressthelastofnextweek."
"AnythingthatremindsmeofwhenI
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wasgrowingup,1like,âsavsI.arkin.Ile findshistreasuresalloverNewF.ngland, addingnewpiecesandtinkeringwithIlie oldonesonaregularbasis.Thebovish excitementhedisplayswhileshowing visitorsaroundhiswonderlandleadsone tobelieveheâsstillgrowingup,ornever will.IIeâsclearlyhavingfun.
Sonicoftheantiquesassembledhere pre-dateLirkin,whomadethe sportssectionofthedailybackin the1950swhenheplavcdbasketballfor Portland1ligh(thatclippingcanbe foundinWetWillieâsLodge,thesmaller bar-vvithin-a-barsetinthebackof Bubba'sproper).Otherpiecesapproach moderntimesâsav.the1980s.Among thecollectionoflunchboxesarc1lollv 1lobbic,PacMan,MorkandMindy,and Animal(theMuppet).
Liketheantiquecollection,the clienteleatBubbaâsisgettingyounger. Thisisdueinlargeparttotheinitiative ofDoriIlartandNaconaFierro,two votingwomenwhohavepromoted eventsatBubbaâssincelastspring. Ilartbeganbartendinghereshortlyafter herformerplaceofemployment.The Skinny,closedearlierthisvear.Many regularsofthedefunctmusic-and-arts venueonCongressStreetfollowedIlart jdowntoBubbaâs,andtherockshowsand Idancenights1lartandFierropresent soonattractedhundredsofotherhipsters totheSulkyLounge.
"Itâsbeenawesome.âsavs1lart,25. "Bubbaâsistheperfectvenue.F.vervonc feelscomfortablehere.â
/Askedwhatherfavoritepartoftheplace is.Ilartmentionsthelighteddancefloor, adisco-eraattractionLarkinhadinstalled severalyearsago."Itâstheonlyonein .Maine,"heboastedatthetime.(Asfaras weknow,thatâsstillthecase.)
Ilartalsomentionsthejarofpickled sausagebehindthefrontbar.âItâsrepreÂŹ sentationaloftheregularsatBubba's." shesaysinjest.âTheyâreallpickled.â
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Ifirkinsaystheoldtimersluneadjusted welltotheconfluenceofnewcomerswho crowdthebarduringIlartandFierroâs events.TheZodiacPartiesthepairputon thethirdThursdayofevcrvmonthhave becomeparticularlypoprdar.Inaddition todancingtohip-hopandhousemusic, attendeescangetastrologicalreadings andtakeinthevisualeffectsIlart,a.k.a. digitaldori.produces.
Thereâssomegrumblingatthedoor whentheregularFridayorSaturday night1)Jispreemptedbvoneofthe newofferings.Butregularsaregenerallv chargedareducedcoverandifvouâre, say,aVirgowhoshowedupattheVirgo ZodiacPartyinSeptember,yougotin forfree.
Notcvcrvonciseagertodiscover Bubbaâs.Therearestillthosewhofear itsdiminteriorandthedas-drinkerswho watchTN 7there.Butatleastoneformer frequenterofTheSkinnyavoidsBubbaâs foranewreason:concerntheSulkv I.oungcwillloseitscharacterifthe youngpeoplewhopartsintheOld Portinundatetheplacewith increasingregularity.
Larkin,howeser,isunconcerned bythisprospect.Afterall.hisbarhas charactertospare.'I'heregulars stillprettymuchbasetheplace tothemselves,especiallyin themornings.
Andthereâsenoughpickledsausagefor anyonebraveenoughtotakeabite.
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.^PHOTOGRAPHS BY JESSE STENBAK
Someofthesewharfcats aretougherthandogs. Iwould!messaround withthem.Theyhavechunks outoftheirears,whiskers missing.Andbecauselast winterthrewofftheirlitter schedule,theirpopulation haszoomedover200.
Mostpeoplethinkthedifference betweendomesticshorthairsand wharfcatsis...rabies.
Butthat'ssimplistic.Ittakesalotmore thanahiss,scratch,andpossibleinfection tomaintainadisreputablereputation.
WTiarfcatstramparoundPortlandâs waterfrontyearinandyearout.Butthis year,âWeâveexploded,âsaysDonna Gonvca,avolunteerwiththeFriendsof FeralFelines,aferalcatrescueorganizaÂŹ tioninPortland,ââ1âhereareeasily200cats outthere.OnarecenteveningIcounted 50catsatoneofsevenfeedingstations.â
Gonvcaattributesthehighcountofcats tolastvearâsincxecrablcwinter,which threwlittersalloutofwhacklastsummer.
âWeusuallyseelittersinMarchand thenagaininthebeginningofSeptemÂŹ ber.Thisyearthefirstlitterscamein JuneorJulyandthesecondlitterdoesnât comeuntil,well,now."
Shepausesasachillbreezeblows acrossPortlandHarbor.âItisalwayscolder onthewaterfront,âshesays.âEventoday.â
Luckilyforthewharfcats, sympathizersfromfishermentocondo
RHJANNA DANIELS
tofelineleukemia.
feralbâclinesissettinguptrapsonthe waterfronteverynighttotryIocatchthe catsbeforewintertemperaturessettle in.butthecatsconstantlyelude thebait.
"Thereisnoincentiveforthemtorun intothetrapbecausetheyarebeingfed regularly.Thesecatsareextremely smartandnoteasilycaught.â
Ifcaptured,wharfcatsaretransferred

ownersandrestaurantemployees observeandfeedtheeatcolonies. C.omcacanâthelpbutadmirethe symbiosis,whichtakesinboththe practicalandthesentimental.
"Mostpeople,Iwouldsav,thinkthe catshelpeliminatetheratpopulationon thewaterfront.Butthevarealsomore concernedaboutthecatsandtheu|>comingwinter.Ithinkitismoreola caringthing."
Evenwiththeaidofthecitizenry andorganizationssuchasbâcral Iclines."Thelifeexpectancyofa wharfcatistwotothreeyears,while well-lovedhousecatscanliveuptoIS. sassBobbiAllen,senioranimal-care technicianattheAnimalWelfare SocietyinWestKennebunk.She admitsthattheshortlifespanismainlv duetothediseasesthecatscontract whichrangefrom.yes.rabies
OnTheMarshRestaurant

âAnd what does a [wharf] cat dream of?Silvermullet,tilefish,spots, croakers,butterfish,whiting, haddock,halibut,yellowtailflounder, pollock,bluefish,seatrout, sturgeon,plaice,cusk,swordfish, mako,turbot,stripedbass,salmon, jacks, red snapper, Sheepshead porgy, monkfish, Spanish mackerel, drum, sand shark, hake, pampano, tuna,herring,perch,kingfish,dabs, mahimahi,salmontrout,eel,Dover sole,seabass,skate,andcarp,to saynothingofbluecrab,lobster, squid,littlenecks,mussels,oysters, conch,cherrystones,seaurchin, scallops,shrimp,steamers,and periwinkle.Alive,aliveoh!Amen.ââ
-JohnTaylor,âTheCatalepticFishPier,â PortlandMagazine,July/August1986 tosheltersorfosterhomes.Onlythe mostdocile,domesticatedcatswillbe placedupforadoption.I'cralEclincs hashadgreatsuccessthisyearinplacing cats,buttheyarecurrently oxerwhehned."Lotsofcatsneedfoster homes;allthesheltersarcfull.W'eare desperateforhelp.â
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SIX INCHE S Underfoot
10,000YearsofHistory

BY PAT F R
arefulk.Ireachintothedirt andpickupaflinttoolsomeone dropped10.000yearsago.The lastpersontoholdthistoolwas oneofthepalcoindians-the firsthumanstoinhabittheAmericas.A boltofcontactjoltsme.intensifiedby looming,blackcloudsabove.
Thelandmarkdigtakesplaceonarolling hilltopoverlooking.MerrymeetingBay.
Knowledgeaboutpalcoindiansisas fragmentaryasthereliestheyleftbehind. Onlv50ofthe6.000knownprimitive sitesinMainerevealevidenceofthiserathecudoftheIceAge.âPalcoindians" simpivmeans"oldIndians."Expertssay thatthePaleoswalkedherefromNew Yorkbetween13,000and9.000yearsago; thenthevdisappearedforever.'Illis isanerawheretimeismeasuredin 1,000-vearincrements.
Thedigsiteissquaredoffintostraight, two-meterquads-eachcutintoquarterÂŹ quads.Usingthisgridhelpsmarkanartifactâslocationontopaper.Alltheseyears sincethePaleosvanishedandtheland moq^hedandânewâpeoplecamehere, noneofuscouldhaveknownwewere treadinglessthanafootabovetheoldest man-madeeffectsinMaine.During Europeanoccupation,plowsbecame
sharper,featuresgrewlighter,lifestyles waxedmorecomplex.Buttheserelies lingeredjustbeneaththeplowbladesâ reach.nestledintheinterfacezone-the middleofthreelayers("horizons")excavatedforthefirsttimeinthesummer of2003.
Istandinashallowfirehearthscooped outofthesand,identifiablenowonlyby concentrationsofsmallbitsofcharcoal.1 rubonebetweenmyfingers,leavinga rawsmearofantiquitvonmyskin.
ArthurSpiess.seniorarchaeologistfor theMaineIlistoricPreservation Commission,reportsthefindingsofthe dig,withflutedpointsbeingkeystone evidenceofpalcoindians:ahalf-dozen toolfragments,thetipofastonespear point,whittlingtools,andstonewedges
usedforsplittingwood,antler,orbone. Spiesssays"themostintriguingfindwasa pointfragment,suggestingthesiteis closerto11,000searsold.ââllms,thereÂŹ centmediablitztouting9,000-\ear-old findsherearconkoffbvamillenniumor
two.Poisedbesideme.filmmakerand IndianenthusiastNicollcLittrell mosesthesoilfromachunkof Mt.Jasperrhsolitc,astone carriedherefromNess1Iani|> shirebsthemssteriousPaleos.
Aremarkableaspectofthese findsisthatwewerenâtlooking forthem,perse.Inthe1,3()s,anIndian resettlementofsshatwasthencalled

favoritecampseachyear.Thus,theend of"free-roamingâledto"regional packing.âThesebandsofcarlspeople mingled,sharedinformation,exchanged goods,startedfamilies,tailoredclothes, andcreatedentertainment.Theycstab-
lishedafundamentallifestyle '.Milikeourown:ahighkâflexible, ssidespread-but$structuredsociety.
Theuniformitsoftheir tools,whetherfoundin MexicoorMaine,suggestsa scryrapiddispersal.
snuffedoutMaineâspaleoindianculture. 1'ollossingtheendofthePaleoera.a strangesoidcalledThe('.real11iatus begins,wherelittleesidenceofpeople canbefoundforgreatspansof timethereafter.
1lookdownatthefragmentinmshand andwonderif,thousandsofscarsfrom now,1â11haselisedinaâhiatus.âWhatssill remainofmycar,myclutchbag,mscell phone?Wlien1amreachingupthrough thedirt,whatwillmscorrespondentmake ofourdisseisingculture,ourinconstancswhatSeinfeldrerunwillIbewatching whenweâdisappearforcscr?
prehistoric,bsdefinitionâpredatingthe agesofssrittenhistorsSpiessestimates that40familiesgatheredatthesite.The relicssuggestthesitewasusedforscseral scars,bsfamilieswhostartedtheirown
Althoughoccupationofthis DresdensiteonChoiceViewbarmwas ânorthofCorkâwasthoughttohaveleft behindremnantsoftheirprosocatise timehere.Lightstest-digslater,Xmarked thespotssheretheexcasationwouldtake place."Itâslikefishing,âsaysarchaeologist
community.Thesefolksprobabkâ descendedfromtheearlierpalcoindians andtriedtosurviveasthetundraclosed intodensewoodlands.WhentheIccAge gavew;wtoanewlyforested environment,thecaribouherdcouldno longersunixe.Maiwarchaeologists suspectthatthecaribouextinction historywenthere.Asitdidbackthen,the xiewdrawsxouin,andthenxoufinditâs anexcellentsongbirdhabitat.Iliesite alwayshadgreatproximitxIotheriser andwetlands."Suchabaxofplentx, cloakingepochalmxstcrics.Drowned sitesfromthisperiodalsowhisperofa chillingpresencethroughoutcoastal
WlienITiendsofMenvmeetingBas andMainefuturebundraisedmoncsin 1999toprotecttheland,theyâknew intuitisclythatitwasagoodspot,âsassLd bâriedman,bâOMBpresident.âButthat wasbeforewcknewjusthowfarbackthe BillBurgess."Youhasetobepreparedto findnothing.âWescrapegingerkâinto theearthâshiddensecrets.Suddenk, risingtothesurfaceinthecarefulcustodsâ ofalisinghand,isapieceofflintbrought herefromBaxtereonsago.Butnw greatestdiscosersisthatofnwownreÂŹ lationshiptotheenigmaticpeoplewho firststoodonthisspot.
WhenMaineâslastsheetsolice pulledbackandthefirstblades ofgrasspokedout,thelâaleos wereheretosecit.Now,countlesshues ofgreenfieldsandforestssurroundthe primitisecampsite,whereourearliest inhabitantslikelvpitchedsmalltents, huntedcaribou,andaleberriesaround neatfires.\\estillknowlittlewith certaintvaboutthepaleoindiandiet. I'heyhavebeendubbedâThefirstBig CameIluntcrs.âButconventionalbelief isthatPalcoindiansreliedonavarietyof foodsources,muchlikewedo.Close familygroups-forthefirsttimeewerbegantosettle.Theyhungwithother crewswherefoodwasabundant,then movedoxerlargeareas,returningtotheir
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yourspecialeventor groupmeetingfrom5 to200.Specializingin traditionalMainecuisine withacontinentalflair. Seafoodspecialties. Finewines.Decadent desserts.Full-service hospitalitywitha professionalstaff.
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Maine.Spiesssays.âIts likeputtinga10,000piecejigsawpuzzle together.ââTenthousand springsmeltedinto mcmonalegaevthat wouldsetintomotion thepeoplewewould becometodax. Ithinkofm\friend 1.auraCannon,who loxesMainebecause shesawsâthe environmentIaminis constantlychanging, newerquitethesame placetwice."I'.xpertand authorBruceJ.Bourque echoesthatcomment. âInthisearlypost-glacial period,therelationbetweencultureand environmentseemsparticularlydramatic becausethelandscapewasrebounding rapidk."'I1ic.scearkpeoplesoughtthe samethingsthatwealldoinMaine:a varietyofecosystems-coastal,mountain. andriverine. z\salittlegirlIwasparticularlyunlucky: alwaysthelasttofindafour-leafclover. ButaroundthetimeoftheDresdenDig. ahandfulofapparentstonetoolsreveal themselvestome-alloxerthestate,and notbeingactixck'sought-withinjusta coupleweeks,\\1icthertheyhaxc archaeologicalvalueremainsunknown. Regardless,1senseIhaxcnotfoundthese perfect,triangularsxmbols;rather, thexvcfoundme.
Islowlvpullnwhandpastthehorizon lasercontainingtheartifact,and1 recognizethatadeeperorderexists.I
F.PhilipLaughlinPartner/LoanOfficer
thinkIheartheclinkofstonechipping stone.Ismellthesmokeearningroasted aromas.Ifeelthebavbreezebringing hopeonthewingsofgeese.Finally,1see ༤theblackcloudsspearshotsoflightening onmy"real"horizon,andIamaweÂŹ struckbvtimeâsmammothelapse.Ifeel |thestabofancestralrecall,silhouettesof Ifolktalcsspilledoxertime,ofpoemstold, likeâ'IbisLivingIlandâfromJohnKeats: Thislivinghand,nowwarmandcapable/ ofearnestgrasping,would,ifitwerecold/ andintheicysilenceofthetomb/so hauntthydaysandchillthvdreaming nights...Onceagainweareremindedof howlittlespaceexistsbetweenonrfinÂŹ gertipsandthebeginningofmankind.
Formoreinformation,visitTheMaineState MuseuminAugusta,whichhostsoneofthelargest collectionsofNativeAmericanrelics.OrseeMaine IlistoricPreservationCommission'swebsite: www.state.me.us/nihfK'.

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To teach my children about history,Iwouldbeginin...
My score wouldnât matter if I spentadaygolfingin... IwishIcouldstrollthevineÂŹ yardsof...

'Ioyouhaveanoldsheddownbythe waterâsedge?Don'ttearitdown,'ton nuivbeabletotransformitintoaguest housewithaview!
That'swhatRobertKnight,anarchitect inBlue1lill,didforhisclientsonan islandinPenobscotBav.
Butbeforeembarkingontheguest house,thevstartedbyaskingKnightto designahouseuponthehill,setback fromthewater,whichhedidsennicek. Themainhousehasalargecentralgable roofwithanoculuswindowintothe masterbedroom,blankingittotheleftis
asmallergableandoculus.'Theentire oceansideofthehouseiswrappedwith anopencedarporch,givingxiewsofthe waterfromalmostevenroom.
Theownersarcbigsailers,spending muchoftheirtimeaboardtheirsailboat, sothevdidn'tneedthemainhousetobe rightontheedgeofthewater-theybare theirboatforthat.Butdownbvthedock therewasanoldshedthatbloomedinto pureinspirationforKnight.I'singeven squareinchoftheexistingfootprintand evervcubicinchoftheallowable30percentexpansionIbuildingswithinthe

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IhadbigdreamsoftheOlympics.âreÂŹ callsJudithCross-Strehlkefromher Doscr-Eoxcrofthorseranch.WithforÂŹ maltraininginEnglishjumpingand dressage,shewastrainingwiththeU.S. OlympicTeambythemid1970s.
Butwhenhergrandparentsrequired careandsheneededcorrectivebone surgeryonherfeet,shewithdrewfrom theteamandreturnedtoMaine.
tracedwiththedilemmaofhowto makealivingwheremostridethemore informalWesternstyle.Cross-Strehlke decidedtointroduceMaineridersto English-saddledressage.Asaprofessional horsetrainerandridinginstructor,she acquired100studentswhocompeted successfullythroughoutNewEngland.
Butnow,shesays.âIdonâtcareifInever gotoanotherhorseshowaslongas1lire.â
Changinglivesinmidstream,sheand herhusbandstartedNorthernMaine RidingAdventures.1lore,Cross-Strehlke worksasacertifiedridingtherapistofÂŹ feringadventure-basedlearningprograms forat-riskadolescentsandkidswith mental-healthdiagnosesor physicaldisabilities.
Sheusesherown16retiredshowhorses fortheprogramaswellasforscenictrail ridingforbeginningtoadvancedriders.
âTmaMainegal."shesass.âfortunate enoughtoharehadmyownhorse.Igrew upridingwayuphereintheNorth woods.Ihadthisbrightideathatpeople
wouldloretodothis.â
Testingtheprogramoutonherfriends. âIpracticallykilledthesepoorpeople.At theendofthedaytheywerebarelyable towalk."
Soshekeepsthenumberofhourson horsebacktomostlytwo-and-a-half-hour trailridessothosenotusedtoridingwon't walkawayIrow-legged.Butfortheadvanced, full-dayandmulti-das-ridesareexciting opportunitiestotrotandcanter.1ridgingis arailableatanon-sitecampground,yurt. nearbyremotecabins,or localB&âBs.
Ridersmeanderalong lakesandthrough streamsintoastategame preseneoflargepine grovesandvibrantly coloredhardwoodson discontinuedroadsand snowmobiletrails, climbingtoopenfields with\icwsofallthe westernmountain chains.Theviewsonthe trailupanotherridge sparkleallthewasto
MountDesertIsland.
Forthosewantingtoplungedeeper intothewilderness,theeight-hour,35mileKatahdinIronWorksrideisa remotescenictourofthisnational historicmonumentinmanaged forestland.'Ilieabandonedmining communitystillhassomeoftheoldkilns usedforsmeltingironore.Riderscross BloodBrook,aptlynamedbyIndians whodiscovereditnmningredwithiron, thenascendOrcMountainandtietheir horsesupforlunchoverlooking Chairback,Saddleback,andWliitccap (offeredasaseparate,morestrenuous climbingtrip)mountains.
AformermemberoftheMaineState FrailsAdvisory,Cross-Strehlkehasworked 10yearstoacquirea31-mileportionofa railroadbedrunningalongtheNarraguagusRiver,uptoGreenville,theentirerailroadultimatelyendinginCanada.She willbeincorporatingthetrailintoher NorthernAdventures.
'FrailridesareofferedonlyonSundavs throughNovember,duetothehunting season.Amaximumofsixarepermitted ontrailrides.Thoseundertheageof ninemustrideonhonthepropertv. Ihereisanindoorarenaforlessons.
Iormoreinionnation,contactXorthemMaine Kidinc.-^ventum.lSfiGarlandLineLoad.DoverLoxcroft.Maine0M26: CO -)
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Enjoyanatural,outdoorâsoak".Thein-tubwood-firedstoresafelybeatsthewaler.Xo electricityorplumbingisrequiredOr.choosethethermostaticallycontrolledelectricheating andfiltrationsystem,thatcanbehookeduprightnexttothetub.Idealforcountryhomes, camps,mountainandlakeretreats,orthebackyard,fullyassembled,ordo-it-yourself"kits". Ererythingyou'llwantisIncluded.Andwe'llberightthereifyouneedus.
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Newt Complete Kite
BY CATHY NELSON PRICE
PortlandâsholidayseasonstartsearlyNovember28,withtheannual TreeLightingCeremonyon

studentMargaretPlouffe.
Theconcertisanchoredbyannual standards:âSleighRideâ(withafunny suqjriscortwo,bothvisualandmusical); IlanddâsIiallehtjahChorus(bringyour musicandpreparetostandandsing parts),andanaudiencesing-along.'This yearâsprogramalsosalutesAmerican composersPrankLocsser(âBaby,Itâs ColdOutsideâ)andIrvingBerlin (âCountYourBlessingsâandâMlntc Christmasâ).Inanodtoanotherholiday tradition,thePSOwillalsoperformselÂŹ ectionsfromTheNutcracker.borshow timesandticketprices,callPort'I'ix at842-0800.
SpeakingofTheNutcracker,Portland Ballet Companypresentsitsone-of-akindversion.TheVictorianNutcracker, forthreeperformancesonlyatI,cvviston MiddleSchoolonSaturday,December 13th,11a.m.and4p.m.;andatMerrill AuditoriumonWednesday,December 17th,7:30p.m.
SetinPortlandinthelate1800s,The
VictorianNutcrackertakesplaceinthe exquisite.ItalianateVictoriaMansion, withcarefullyresearchedsets,costumes. Monument Square-and offerscontinuousfestivities throughDecember23in theDowntownDistrict andelsewhere.Inbetween shoppingsprees,visitors enjovhorse-drawnwagon ridesandstreetmusicians, includingafleetof carolershailingfromthe areaâssingingranks.
I ?orsheerjovous exuberanceandYuletide spirit,theheavyhitteris still TheAlogicOfChristÂŹ mas,asperformedbythe Portland Svmphonv Orchestrafor15shows beginningDecember11. ConductorToshiyuki ShimadadonshisSanta hat-literally-topreside overaprogramofclassical andpopsfavorites.
Thisyearâsprogram featuressoloistsRobert Bartlev(ChrisinMiss Saigon)andJoyLynn Matthews(Ragtime, Alenopause,theAlusical). Theyâllbejoinedbya localsoprano,highschool
andcharactersbaseduponhistorical figures.'Iwoofthem,\Ir.andMrs. RugglesMorse,hostagalaChristmas affairforsuchguestsasMayor-elect JamesPhinneyBaxter,Ilermann Kotzschmar(ofpipe-organEime),and JohnBundyBrown,thesugarbaronand richestmaninMaine.'ITieclassical NutcrackerstoryunfoldsasOlixiafolÂŹ lowsherNutcrackerPrinceintotheenÂŹ chantedKingdomoftheSweets.
PerformedbystudentsandprofessionÂŹ als, Ihe\'ictoricm\utcrackerisusuallya hotticket,soreserveyoursearlybycalÂŹ lingthePortlandBalletat772-9671.
Anothermust-seeisPortlandStage Companyâs AChristmasCarol, comÂŹ pletewithflyingbed,talkingfurniture, andmulti-characterizations.The90minute,family-friendlyshowdrawsvisÂŹ itorsfromaroundtheworld.Onstage, prosfromNewYorkandBostonmix withlocalactorsinathoroughlypolÂŹ ished,professionalproduction.
PerformancesrunDecember4-24at PortlandStageCompany,25AKorcst Avenue.ThoughticketsarcsoldseparÂŹ atelyfromsubscriptions,subscribersget firstcrackattheseats,soagain,donât waittoolongtoreserve,especiallyif youârebringingmultiplefriendsand relatives.CallthePSCBoxOffice at774-0465.
Newtotheseasonofferingsthisyearis ThePublicTheatreâsWindhithe Willows,inLewiston,whichrunsfor fourperformancesonly,December1214.TheadventuresofKennethCrahameâsMr.Toadandfriendshavebeen delightingreadersforgenerations;now, initsholidayslot,comesThePublicâs production,adaptedbyChristopher Schario(thetheaterâsproducing artisticdirector).
Performedbymasterstorytellerand acclaimedactorMichaelOâBrien,this showisagoodchoiceforyounger childrenwhomightfindScroogeand hisghostsalittletooscanâ.Itâsalsoa perfectwaytointroducethemtothe magicoflivetheater;mavbethevâllgo backandreadthebook!CallThe PublicTheatreboxofficeat782-3200 forshowtimesandticketinformation. Itwasthelongest-runningshowin Broadwayhistory,andyoucangivevoursclfanearlyholidaytreatbvcatchingthe limitedrunofCatsatMerrillAuditoÂŹ riumNovember21-23.Kindoutbv callingPortTixat842-0800.
Concernsforyour
winterdriving
⢠antifreeze
â˘belt
⢠radiator hoses
⢠water pumps
⢠thermostat
⢠winter wiper blades
â˘batteries
Weâllcheckthemforyou!

Nokianâs Ilakkapeliita
The Winter tirefor Prestige Automobiles
IS5KennebecStreet,Portlandâ˘775-3777
PineTreeShoppingCenterâ˘775-1602 Route302.NorthWindhamâ˘S92-752S
Wealwaysofferdropoffandpickupserviceforourcustomers.
Galeyrie2003HolidayShow
November28,2003-January3,2004
VeronicaBenning
CherylBoykinBryant
DavidClough
GlenGunderson
JillIzzo
JohnKelley
LenoreLiebowitz
LouisOuzer
EstelleRoberge
JaneRotundi
LoriTremblay
JanPietervan VoorstvanBeest
DidiWashburn
EstelleRoberge Configuration,oilonpanel
GlenGunderson MangroveHeron,woodrelief
VeronicaBenning liPlantonRed,oiloncanvas
CountBasie,vintagephotograph
BullFeeney's
Armory Restaurant j
TheArmoryRestaurantmthePortlandRegencyHotel.Spectacularcuisine. OdPoncharm.&impeccableservicerianelegantyetcasualatmosphere wâfreshdinnerspecialsfromland&seaUnforgettablehousespecialtiesâ SeafoodFettuccinew/lobster,shrimp,crab.&mussels.SteakDiane,&Black AngusSirfom.Alsoopenfabreakfast&lunchReservations recommended 774-4200.
TheAudubonRoom
TheAudubonRoomattheInnbytheSeaonRoute77mCapeElizabeth BreathtakingviewsoftheAtlanticOcean&cufinarymasterpiecesfeaturing freshlocalproduce,nativeseafoodspecialties.&exceptionalhandmade breads&desserts.Grilledcrab&macadamiaencrustedswordfishwforange pepperbasilcoufis&sauteofMainelobster&vealonfreshangelhairw roastedtomatobeurrebianc.Patiochrung&offpremisecateringavailable. Servingbreakfast,lunch&(innerdaily767-0888.
BarbaraâsKitchen
Barbara'sKitchenandCafe,388CottageRoad.SouthPortland,acrossfrom thePortlandPlayersTheater,headingtoFortWilliams.Casual,creative,& modestlypricedcuisinetorintimatediningbysunlighttorbreakfast, candlelighttordinner.VegetarianscansavorourEggplantRavioliwitha RoastedRedPepperCreamSauce.NYstripsteakwPortobelloMushrooms &demngiaze6afavonteofcarnivores.âTherosemaryfocacoaisreason atonetopayavisit.ââDowneastFullbaravailable.Reservations767-6313 wwwbaibarasK.tchen.com
BealeStreetBarbeque&Grille
BealeStreetBarbeque&GriB-UnderthebridgeinKn^htvilte.So.Portland. Featureshekorysmokedandgrilledmeats,poultry,fish&seafoodasweBas creativedailylunchand(innerspecials.FullbarfeatumgManenxrobrews ontapReservationsarenotaccepted.Childrenarewelcome.Openalday. sevendaysaweek.90WatermanDr.So.Portland767-0130
CharlieBeiggâs
Locatedjust20minutesfromPortlandrightonRoute302inWindham, ChargeBetgg'sistheplacetogoforcasualfinediningStowovenroasted PruneRdisavailable7daysaweekFreshseafood,mouthwateringsteaks, detaouspastadshesandmuchmore,fiourmenu.Oursoups,salad dressingsandoessertsatealhomemade.Jonusforearlybirdsahappy hourOrtakeadvantageofoursenorarizendiscounteveryWednesdayand Sunday.Vegetariandishesandchildren'smenuavailableaswefl.Havinga party,useoneofourbanquetroomsandleavetheworktous!Justrecently, the PortlandPressHerald foodcriticwrote.'Quitefrankly,ifIcouldaward ChariteBeggs10stars.Iwoufd r Stopbyandseewhy 1Werelocatedat754 RoosesTrad(Route302)Wndham.Wereopenfrom11am-9pmeveryday andourphonerumbais892-3595Wedlowtoseeyou*
CafeStroudwater
Takeadvantageof5-starchefCarlAndersonscreativetouchesatCafe StroudwateraltheEmbassySuitesHotel.WithanemphasisonMainenatve seafood&ponecutsofbeef.CafeStroudwaterofferseclecticbistro-style ajisine&avarietyofselectfinewinesFaamostuniquediningexperience, reserveaplacea:Roland'sonlychef'stabfe.whereyou&yourguestswi bepamperedbyChefAnderson&hsstaffwhiteenjoyinga6-coursemeal preparedesptoryou.Breakfast,lunch,&innerdaty.Calforinformation regartingHolidayGrandBuffetsMajacreditcards,reservations suggested.775-0032.
DiMilloâsFloatingRestaurant
'ibucan'tbeatthelocationofDiMJo'sFloatingRestaurantal25LongWharf offCommensalStreetforfabulouswaterviewsofPortlandHarba.Escape fromthehusSe&bustleoftheatyWatchtheboatsgobyEnjoyfreshMame lobsteryear-round,steak,seafoodcishes.&more.Open7daysaweekfrom 1lam-11pm.Childrensmenuavailable.Fadnnks&afightermenu,tryour PortsideLounge.772-2216.
'FlatbreadCompany
FlatbreadCompanyvotedRrtantfs"BestNewRestat/anfisservmgaward wmngalnaturalflatreadpizza,bakedrawccd-fredearthenoven.Relax andenjoytheshowastheFlatbreadcrewpreparesbakesandserves>our flatbreadfromanopenktchen,placednthenddeofthedrugroom.Located intheOdftxtonthewater,inabeautifulwharfbuidingoverlookingtheCasco BayFerrydockOpenMonthruSun1l30todose.MC,Visa.AMEX
FrenchMemory
ComevisitoacountryviagecafentheheartofFalmouth,offeringaunque casualdongexperience.DmnersservedWednesdaythroughSaturday begmnmgat5.FawrtecasualFrenchentrees,steakandfries,choen cordonbleu,dmnercrepesandsalmonprovencalareofferedalongwith croissantandbaguettesandwiches,supersaladsandAmerica'sfavonte
hamburgers,petiteagrandeportionsareavailableBreakfastandlunch serveddailyfrom8until2.Designyourownomelette,quehe.crepesand souffeealongwithfrenchtoast,beigianwafflesandPancakesareafl homemadeandservedbeautifullywithcaremourcolorfulcafeatmosphere. Fullbarandwinelistavailable.Visa.Mastercard.DinersClubandAMEX accepted.190USRouteOne,FalmouthTelephone207-347-5631
GreatLostBear
DeepmtheheartofthemysteriousWoodfordsareaal540ForestAvenue<s theGreatLostBear,whereyouHfindafuBbarfeaturingover50draught beers,predominantlyfromlocalmicro-breweries.Accompanyingthemisan enormousmenuweverythingfromsoups,salads,&sandwichesto vegetarianitems&steaks,asweflasalargevegetarianselection&thebest nachos&buffalowingsintown.Discoverwherethenativesgowhenthey're restless!Serving1130am-11:30pm7daysY/eek.772-0300.Visituson-line at: www greatostbear.com_
JamesonTavern
JamesonTavernconsistsoftwowelcomingparts,acasualbar&lounge&a moreformaldmingroomeachofferingacomfortableplaceforeasycbnng ThebuildingisthesiteofthesigningoftheconstitutionforthestateofMaine whenitbrokeawayfromMassachusetts.Classicpreparationsservedina graceful&elegantsettingmaketheJamesonTavernafineretreatfrom frenziedoutletshopping.11514amStFreeport.8654196.Creditcards accepted; reservations recommended._ __ MargaritasMexicanRestaurants&WateringHole!
ft'sMextotheMax'*atMargantasMexicanRestaurants&WateringHole!Two greatlocationsinPortland,othersinLewiston,Augusta.Orono&Portsmouth, Margaritasservesupâoversized*meals&colossal-sizeddrinks!There's alwaysfreehotdips&salsa.&downrightlegendarymargantas.&thehouse specialtysthesizzlingfajita'HappyhourM-F,4-7pm.freehaappetizers.In Portlandat242StJohnSiUrxxiStationPlaza.874-6444&11BrownSt neartoeOneCenter.774-9398.LunchatBrownStFridaysonly.
MariaâsRistorante
Maria'sRistaante.est.1960byowner/chefAnthonyNapolitano,offers Portland'sfinestItaliancuisinewithaverygoodItalianwineselection. Spadous.beautiful.Italiandecoratedliningrooms.Privateroansavaflabte forlargegroups.Vealsaltimbocca.fewjontoscano.zuppadepesce.Classic Italiandesserts,Antnony'sownpstadnogelato.Lunch.$5-$8.Tu-F. 1130am-2pm.Dinner:$9-$18.Tues-SaLfrom5pm.337CumberlandAve., freeparkingavailable.Pleasecall772-9232.
The Pepperclub j
ThePepperdubisaprize-winningrestaurant("BestVegetarian*&âBest Value'inFrommersGuidetoNewEngland)featuringcreativewoldcuisine. Itsblackboardmenutypicallyfesfivevegetarian,threefish.&threemeat entrees,metoingasuperborganicbeetburger.Pepperduboffersrelaxed, colorful.unusuaByaffordablediningontoeedgedtheOdPortw.easy,free partag&goodwines&beers.Opennightlyat5p.m.;aedtcardsaccepted. 78MiddleStreet,nearFranklinArtery.772-0531.
SnowSquall
SnowSquatrestaurantvotedafavoritebythelocals;hbugotta,trytoe restaurari*.SucculentDucktwoways.LargeLobsters.GriedAtlanticsalmon withfrizzledfeeks,BakedHaddockandMameCrabcakeswithGranmustard AioB.arestandoutsonourwiderangingmenu.Dmnerisservedn^htlyLunch MondaytoFridayandSundaybrunch11am.to1p.m.SundayDmnerfrom 12noonto8p.m.Enjoyourcozyfiresidelounge,featuringafightermenua thefuBdinnermenufacasualdining.Privateroomstoaccommodate100. Reservationarealwayswelcomeatwwwsnowsquafl.coma799-2232
WokInn
WokInnSzechuan,Hunan,Cantonese&Thai.ExceBerttood.fastand affordable.Choosefrommorethan130defioousmenuitems.Eatinatake outDeliverytoCapeElizabeth.Cumberland,,Falmouth.Gorham,Portland. Scarborough.SouthPortland,Westbrook,YarmouthHours:Sun-M1130am -930pm,Th11am-11pm,F-Sa11am-2am.1209FaestAve..Portland. 797-9052 a 797-9053
Woody's Bar and Grill j
Woody'sBarandGri43MddteStPortland.Servmgcreative,fastfood cuisme.Featuringlocalnaturalbeefandchicken,andafocusonfreshfocal ingredients.Makesuretotrythealreadyfamous*WoodyBurger*,andthe soontobefamousFishTacos.Dailyspecials,includingnaturalsteaks, vegetarianandvegandishes,soups,andseafoodThereisagreatselector) atoodtnendybeerandwme.There'safcogelatoandotherfreshdeserts. WoodyâsservesthisaSupmarelaxed,cozy,odcasualatmosphere.âA burgerjointmtoebestsensecithevrort.'PortlandPressHeraldOpentor lunchTuesdaythruFridayDinnerrÂťgWyTuesdaythruSaturdayCall(207) 253-5251Checkusoutat;wwwwoodysburgers.com

usualsuspectsaswell assomesurprises servedupinanoriginal Worcesterdiningcar
A+ â â forthe

Gardiner,Maineâs,A-lDinersits astrideabridgespan ningCobbosseeconteeStreamjust aboveitsconÂŹ vergencewiththe KennebecRiver. CarsonRoute201 swishbehindyouas youenterthedoor andtravel57years intothepast. Inside,itis1946: aluminumandwood,thebooths, andtheArtDecooptimismofaworldstreamlinedforefficiency. âfilemenuofthisoriginalWorcesterdiningcarstajâsincharacteras well.Atfirstblush,thereseemtobenosurprisesâchickensalad, cornedbeefhash,grilledcheese,eightkindsofburgers,meatloaf, friedhaddock,andtheusualsides:bakedbeans,mashedorfries,cole slaw,andonionrings.Butlookagain.Startlinglyunexpected internationalspecialsarepullinghoardsoftravelersoffnearby Interstate95ontowhatusedtobethemainPortland-to-Augustaroad. 'lakeOaxacanpotatosoup($3.50cup),forexample,androot vegetablechowder,tomatobulgar,andrattlesnakechile.Wetried theOaxacan,savoringeachspoonofthisslightlyhot,robust Wk treatcomplementedbyaresoundinglygoodbiscuit.
SA Myentree,Algerianlambshank($11.50),cameasaresult '^B ofadifficultchoice,givenoptionssuchasTuscansirloin, â salmonwithpesto,andlamb-and-goat-cheeseburger.Tender fx B enoughtobetakenoffthebonewithaspoon,thelamb, r ^B servedstewstylewithamplegravyandyummymashed SB potatoes,wasasymphonyforthesenses.Cardomom, KS saffron,curry,fennel,andgarlicmingledwithraisins, almonds,tomatoes,carrots,andorangezesttosetoffthis NorthAfricantreatingloriousfashion.
Meanwhilemypartner,disdainingromance,tuckedhappilyinto aplateofliverandonions($8.95)withagreatheapofrealfried potatoesandfieldgreenswithvinaigrette.
GoatsDoRoam,aSouthAfricanredwine($19bottle),addedto thefestivityoftheevening,endingwithawarmapplecrisp â^generouslyladenwithrealwhippedcream.A-l:wellworth Swithedrive,fromanywhere.
INTERVIEW BY JANET BLEVINS
Wellknownforhisoutburstsof opiniononComedyCentral's TheDailyShow,IxssisBlack boomerangsbacktoPortlandDecember4 afterhissold-outMarchSshowatthe State'llieatre.Thistimehetourswith DaseAttell,anotherComedsCentral regular.W'chadthechancetochatwith himabouthissisitstoMaineandhis untowarddesireforlobster.
WhenDavidCopperfield,themagician.
cametoPortlandafew monthsago.hetold ushewasgoingto makethePortland IleadLight disappear. Whatkindof magicdo you haveplannedfor Portland audiences?
LBZ llie|Xâople whoareblindwill see.'1liedeafwill hear.Youknow.Ilie simplestuff.
BLACK
W/rydid you choosetocomehackto \lainesosoon?IDidyouforgetsomething?
LB: Theysaidtheywantedmetocome back.Itwasafunshow,funcrowd.Itwas wannerbackthen.Ihopethetheateris heated.
Whatdidvourfriendssavwhen you were cominghackto\laineasecondtime?
LB: Thesrejustthrilledansbodsssould watchme.
WhatwerevourexpectationsofPortland beforethatvisitandhowdidvourvisit matchupwiththoseexpectations?
LB: Ithoughtitwouldbealittle â moreflamicl-lvandL.L.Bean-s. Itâsafairlshipcits.Portland'sa progressisecommunits.Youâse gotthePortlandStageComÂŹ panythere.Irememberfrom nwtimeintheaterthatithasa goodname. Whenwasthefirsttimeyou visited\laine?
LB: AsakidIcameupherewith nwparents.W'cwenttoBarIlarbor andthennorthintothose250-milc. 200-milcwoodsorwhateser(lies' are.Liter,Ilookedinto Bossdoinor Batesfor college, butI
thoughtabouttheweatherandknewit wasnotgoingtohappen.
Whatdidyoudowhile you wereherein Portlandthelasttime?
LB: Nothing.IwishIhadmoretimein Portland.Iflewinfortheshowandwent toagreatlittlebarafterwards.
IsthereapartofPortlandthatismostlike vourhometownofSilverSpring?
LB: Nothinglikeit.Portland'snice. WhatâsvourbeefwithPolandSpring water?
LB: Idonâtbelievethespringexists.It'sa beenapicturetakenofit.Ifeelthesame wasaboutallbottledwaters.Thereareno springs.Thereâsdefinitelynospringin SilverSpring,andifthereisone,itâsnot silver.MybeefisthatIhaveamistrustof waterinbottles.Peoplecouldeasilvjust getintoabathtubandfillupthosebottles. Weusedtoeleanwithourwaterandnow weshopforit.Itjustshowssouthatthis countryhaslostitsmind.
Onstageyouâreknownforyourrantingand raving.Isthishow you areinevervdavlife?
LB: IfIwaslikethatesersdas,Idbe dead.IâmlikethatinLA.allthetime. LA.makesmefurious.
Completethissentence:1knowI'min Mainewhen...
LB: lobsteris80centsapoundor whateseritis.
So you likelobster?
LB: 1loselobster.Thatwouldbeone reasontomovetoMaine.
Everthoughtofmovinghere?
LB: No.Whatssould1doduringthe winter?Tonmustspendthewinter indoorstalkingtoeachother.Youâd needtogetasatellitedishorsoil'dlose sourmind.


galleries
Abbe Museum. BarHarbor.Exhibitsthrough Decemberinclude"LayersofTime:75Yearsof Archaeology at the Abbe Museum" and "The Basket Rmm: The Anne Molloy Howells Collection."288-3519.
AucociscoCallery.6 15ACongressStreetandat theEastlandParkHotel.Portland.WorksbyAlice SpencerareonviewthroughDecember.874-2060 orwww.aucocisco.coni.
BowdoinCollegeMuseumofArt. Brunswick. "TheDisembixliedSpirit."anexplorationoftheart andcultureofghosts,runsthroughDecember7. OpenTuesdaythroughSunday,withfreeadmission. 725-3275or www.bowdoin.edu.
TheArtCalleryatTheClown. 123MiddleStreet. Portland."NewEnergy."paintingsandsculptures byBrianEstesandMargaretLyons,showsthrough November29.756-7399orwww.the-clown.com.
CenterforMaineContemporaryArt.162Russell Avenue.Rixckport.Continuingexhibitsinclude "MaineSeen."landscapeexhibition:"RichardVan Buren:SpiritMold":and"PaulCaponigro:A RendezvouswithColor."236-2875or www.artsniaine.org
ColbyCollegeMuseumofArt.Waterville."Jun Nguyen-Hatsushiba:MemorialProjectVietnamâis onexhibitthroughFebruary8;theFallFacultx ExhibitionopensonNovember14;andtheMaine CraftsAssociation2()thAnniversaryExhibition o|iensDecember7.872-3228or www.colby.edu/nuiseum
FarnsworthMuseumofArt.Main Street. Rixkland.Currentexhibitsinclude"Winslow HomerTheIllustrator"and"ClaraNeptuneKeezer: A Legacy of Passamaquoddy Basket Making." OpeningNovember23is"AndrewWyeth:Falland WinterExhibition."596-6457or www.farnsworthnniseuni.org.
JuneFitzpatrickCallery.1 12HighStreet and 522 CongressStreet.Portland.AtHighStreet.âBkxxJ. Bone.Elegy"byJamesGroleaushowsthrough November29andtheCongressStreetgallen featuresâAntecedentChange."byAmyStacey Curtis.772-1961or www.junetitzpatrickgallery.com.
ForeStreetCallery. 372ForeStreet.Portland. IheâGalleryGroupShow"isonexhibitthrough November, followed by "New Work by Paul Black." 874-8084 orwww.forestreetgallery.com.
GaleyrieFineArt. The Shops at Falmouth Yillage.240U.SRouteOne.Falmouth.Holiday Show opens November 28. with works by Veronica Benning. Glen Gunderson. JohnKelley.LouisOuzer.Estelle Roberge.781-3555.
Poetry By Colin
Sargent Winner 2003
Maine Arts Commission Fellowshipin Poetry
âReadingColinSargentâspoetiyislikeopeninga darkbagandhavingathreadleapout,then severalmorethreadsfusingtoluminousbandsof music,oneafteranother,alongwithcrazy potatoes,aphonegrowinglikeablackplant, perhapsasodacandiscardedonthebeachoff Kennebunkport,Maine.InUndertow,hislatest book,Sargentâscollocationsofthemagicaland themundaneworktogetherbrilliantly.â
GreenhutGallery. 146MiddleStreet.Penland..An exhibitofrecentworkbyMargaretlaiwrence continuestoNovember20.772-2693.or www.greenhutgalleries.com
Hay Gallen. 594CongressStreet.Portland."The LârbanShow"isonexhibitthroughNovember30. 773-2513 or www.havgallen.com
InstituteofContemporaryArtatMaineCollege ofArt.522CongressStreet.Portland.MECAâs "Alumni/aeExhibition"runsNovember12to December14.879-5742orwww.meca.edu.
MuseumofAfrican1ribalArt.122SpringStreet. Portland."TheSpiritsofIgbos"isacollectionof sub-SaharanAfricanartandhistoryobjects. /Admissiontothegalleryisfree.87I-7188or www.africantribalartmuseum.org
Portland.MuseumofArt. 7CongressSquare. Portland.Currentexhibitsinclude"Charles FrederickKimball.1831-1903:PortlandâsLegacy." throughDecember7.anilâASolitudeofSpace:The PaintingsofThomasCrotty."throughJanuary4 AdmissionisfreeFridayevenings773-ARTS. (800>639-4067orwww.portlandmuseum.com.
Maine Maritime Museum. 243WashingtonStreet. Bath.CurrentexhibitsincludeâThePortlandGale: StormofInfamy"and"AMaritimeHistoryof Maine."443-1316or www.bathniaine.com/programs.asp
Maine State Museum. 87StateHouseStation. Augusta.Currentshowsinclude"200Yearsof MaineFurniture"and"HistoricFlagsand Banners."287-2304.
The Maine Women Writers Collection. WestbrookCollegeCampus.Lniversityof NewEngland.StevensAvenue.Portland.This specialcollectionofliterary,cultural,andsocial historysourcesbyandaboutwomenauthorsis opentothepublicbyappointment.797-7688. ext.4324.
RoundTopCenterfortheArts. Route One. Damariscotta."ChipWilliams:Sculpture.Plus" continuesthroughNovember22.563-1507or www.roundtoparts.org.
Saco Museum. 371MainStreet.Saco."40Yearsof SurfinginMaine."bysurferandphotographer EugeneCole,runsthroughJanuary3.283-3861.
SaltGallery. ExchangeStreet.Portland.Aucocisco Radio,adocumentaryexhibitionofradioand photography,continuesthroughDecember6.'Hie StudentShowopensonDecember19.761-0660or www.salt.edu/gallery.html
SteinGallery. 195MiddleStreet.Portland.Steinâs fifthannualjewelryshowrunsthroughDecember 31.772-9072 or www.steinglass.com.
IniversityofMaineMuseumofArt. 40 Harlow calendar

Street.Bangor."JohnMarinâsMaine.""Hollywood Rons. Local Demons." by Mark Anthony and "JonathanBailey:SeeingBangor."showthrough January17.561-3350.
ZeroStation.AndersonStreet.Portland."Zero Portfolio"continuesatZeroStation'swebsiteandin flat-filesatthegallery."EgoStation"continues throughDecember.347-7(XX) www.zerostation.com.
theater
BatesCollegeTheater.2AndrewsRoad. Lewiston.Shakespeare's Hamlet runsNosember7 to15. LinneyPlays, aneveningofstudent-directed one-actplays,isperformedNovember17to21. 786-6161.
GoodTheaterProductions.St.LawrenceArtsand CommunityCenter.76CongressStreet.Portland. Liat, byJoeOrton,runsthroughNosember30. 885-5883.
LyricMusicTheater.176SawyerStreet.South Portland.Ilie51stseasoncontinueswith Minirackers November 21 through December 7. 799-1421orvvww.lyricmusictheater.com
ThePortlandPlayers.120CottageRoad.South Portland.Ilie73rdseasoncontinueswith performancesol CatonaHotTinRoof. Nov ember 7to23.799-7337.
Penobscot Theater Company. 183 Main Street. Bangor.Performancesof TheMiracleWorker run throughNovember23.followedbyA Christmas Carol, December15to23.947-6618or www.penobscottheatre.org
Portland Stage Company. Portland Performing ArtsCenter.25AForestAvenue.Portland.The company's3()thanniversaryseasoncontinueswith Proof andA ChristmasCarol. 774-0465or www.portlandstage.com.
ThePublic'Theatre.TwoGreatFallsPlaza. Auburn. TheHelleofAmherst starringEllen Crawford runs November? to 16. 782-3200or www.thepiddictheatre.org.
St.LawrenceArtsCenter.76CongressStreet. Portland. TheHurdy-GurdyPuppetShow performs everySaturdayandG<hk1Theater'sproductionof Loot continuestoNovember30.775-5568or www.stlawrencearts.org.
I'niversityofMaine.MainStage.RussellHall. 37CollegeAvenue.Gorham. Shakuntalaandthe RinyofRecognition, adaptedanddirectedby AssuntaKent,playsfromNovember7to16: twooriginalstudentworks. Ghosting and Goin' toGraceland, areperformedattheSt. LawrenceArtsandCommunityCenter.76 CongressStreet.Portland,fromDecemlxr 5to13.

OLD PORT ⢠PORTLAND
2 Milk Street ⢠1 block east of the Regency 207.774.8800
BOOTHBAY HARBOR
50 Commercial Street 207.633.3831
vvwvv.portlandpirates.com HEâD BE
| Augusta Civic Center. Community Drive. Augusta.TheMoodyBlliesperformon November 28. 626-241X1

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CumberlandCountyCivicCenter.Portland.311. withguestAlienAntFarm,performsattheCivic CenteronNovember10.775-3458.775-3331or www.ticketmaster.comorwww.cc.com.
StateTheatre. 609CongressStreet.Portland.Saves theDay.withspecialguestsTakingBackSunday andMoneen.appearonNovember16.and DropkickMurphywithguestsTheCasualtiesand Avoid One Thing perform on November 23. www.1iveatthestate.com.
Bay Chamber Concerts. RockportOperaHouse. Rockport.BostonPopsconductorandpianistKeith LockhartandtheInnuendoQuartetperformon November15inRockport,andtheWaverlyConsort presents TheChri.MmasStory- onDecember11atthe Camden Opera House. 236-2823 orvvvsvs.haychamberconcerts.org.
MerrillAuditorium. 20MyrtleStreet.Portland. MichaelFeinsteinappearswithcomposerJimmy Webb on November 14. 842-OSCM) orwww.porttix.com.
OratorialChorale. Brunswick.HieChorale continuesits3(hhconcertseasonattheOrion PerformingArtsCenterinTopshamonNovember 22andattheSacredIleartChurchinYarmouthon November 23. 725-1420 or www.oraturiocliorale.org.
PCA Great Performances. MerrillAuditorium. Portland.ThePragueChamberOrchestraperforms onNovember12:Yamato,drummersofJapan, appearonNovember19;andtheNationalTourof Catt. isscheduledforNovember21to23.842-0800 orwww.pcagreatperf.com
PortlandConservatoryofMusic.Portland.PCM continuesitsNixmdayConcertseriesattheFirst ParishChurchwithFdwardGabrielsen,tenor. November13;RichardKay.vionlincello. November20:DeborahFriouandJulialame.Celtic harp.December4:ChristinaAstrachanandfriends, calendar
December 11. 775-3356.
PortlandStringQuartet, StaleStreetChurch. Portland.ThequartetperformsworksbyHaydn. AmyBeach,andErnestBlochwithguestartist VirginiaEskinonDecember7.761-1522or wwH.portlandstringquartet.org.
PortlandSymphonyOrchestra. Merrill Auditorium.Portland.PSOpresentsBeethovenâs Fifth November 11: The New York Baritones November 15 and 16: and TheMaxieo/'Chiislinas DecemberIIto21;continuingseriesinclude ClassicalTuesdays.ClassicalSundays,and America'sPops.773-6128or www.portlandsymphony.com.
Universityof.MaineSchoolofMusic, Portland. Maine.Performanceschangedaily,socallorvisit thewebsitefordetails.780-5555or www.nnisic@usm.maine.cdu/music.
don'tmiss
PoetryReading.Local188. LongfellowSquare, PortlandPoetryreadingbyColinSargent,winner. 2tX)3MainePoetryFellowshipfromtheMaineArts Commission.7pan.SponsoredbyMaineWriters& PublishersAlliance.Sargentwillreadnewpoems from ClosedMondays.
DesigningWomenAnnualArtsandCrafts Show, atthezktriumatCook'sCornerinBrunsÂŹ wickNovembers;attheUnitarianUniversalis! Churchat292StateStreetinPortsmouth.New HampshireonNovember15:andattheWoodfords CongregationalChurchonWoodfordStreetin Portland,onDecember13.839-4284.
ColbyCollege. Waterville.AuthorandpoetLaura KasischkewillreadherworkonNosember18.8723257or www.colby.erlu.
PortlandPublicLibrary. 5 Monument Square. Portland.BrownBagLectureSeriescontinueswith authorsJeffreySteingarten.November12;Tobias Wolff. November 13; John B. Robinson. November 19:MargoHoward.December3;andMartin Steingesser.December10. www.portlandlibniry.com.
MaineHistoricalSociety. 489CongressStreet. Portland."PortlandPast:AnEveningofPortland HistoryonFilm"isafreeeventonNovember6. "GenealogyforKidsâisscheduledforNovember 15.FreencxintimelecturesincludeMapmaking Today.November11,andMosesGreenleaf: Maine'sFirstGeographer.December4.774-1822 orwww.niainehistory.org.
SmithsonianMagazineâsCultureFest. Portland.A varietyofeventsstemmingfromthevastresources oltheSmithsonianInstitutionatvariousvenues aroundPortlandfromNovember6to9. Formoreinformation,callI-800-774-5020or www.cidturefest.coin.
-CompiledbyDianeHudson

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PhilipV.Corey,presidentandowner ofBlueRockIndustries,andhiswife, Lillian11.Corey,treasuredthehome theypurchasedin1955,apropertv

knownastheWardEstate.Mr.Corev wasaprominentbusinessmanin Portlanduntilhisrecentpassingatage 93.havingservedontheboardof directorsatUnionMutual,CascoBank, andMaineNationalBank,notto mentionbeingpresidentofthe CumberlandClubandpastpotentateof KoraShrine-asavotingman,heeven playedtromboneinJohnPhillipSousaâs bandinBoston-butonce\isitors
approachthispropertytheyfeelperhaps astrongerpresence,theencompassing influence,artistry,andvivacitvofLillian. Sheiseverywhereyonturn.
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Itissaidthatwhentheywereindcpendentlvhousehunting,eachofthe Coreyscalledandleftamessagetothe other,saving"Ivefoundthehouse!"and inbothcasesitwas12s1'brcsidcRoad. Assouenterthefrontdoor,youarc immediatelvcharmedbvthe signatureBurnhamfoyer,which runsthedepthofthehousesothatvou canseeallthewaybeyondthegorgeous, windingstaircasetotheterraceandout tothesea.
'lbvourrightisthegracious,fireplaced livingroomthatalsorunsthedepthof thehouse.Avervlargewindowframes anincomparableviewofthepaththat

584

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Offthelivingroomisatiledsolarium thattransportsvoutoafternoonteas, gamesofMahJong,andhighballs.
'lbtheleftofthefoveristhepaneled, fireplaeeddiningroomwithitsown loggiaprovidingapicturesquesecond entranceintothehousefrom thedrivevvav.
Asmallpantrvoffthediningroom leadstothekitchen,whichhasa beautifulwindowthatalsolooks outtoMusselCove,creatingtheperfect placetolingerovercafeanlait andmadeleines.
Upthegrandstaircase,whichhasa halfbathunderneath,thesecondflooris dividedintotwoworlds,theguestwing andthemastersuite.Therearetwo roomsandabathateachendofthe

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avorallthatgraciousurbanlivinghastoofferinthis192â WATEREROXTbrickhome.Inthemorning,strollthe I'rederickLawOlmstedparkwaxatthefootofvourflagstone path;intheafternoon,kavak.windsurf,sail,orrowbeautifulBack Chiveatvourtroutdoorstep;andintheeveningwalktoPortland PublicMarketfordinnerandaconcertatMerrillAuditorium.At night,watchthefireworksoxertheharborfromyourcoveredback porch.Enjovallthisfromoneofthefinestneighborhoods(within walkingdistanceofpublicprivateschools,theuniversity,and OldPortshopping)intheheartof âAmericaâsmostlivablecitv." I.venwindowaffordsan incomparablewaterandcitvview.The 28-ft.livingroomhastrenchdoors,a tudorfireplace,andarchwaysleading tothemediterranean-stvlesolarium withtiledfloorandvaultedceiling. 1hespaciousmasterbedroomandthecozvdenbothhavegasfireÂŹ places.Thegourmetkitchenandbutler'spantnleadingtothedinin; roomare elegantlv appointed withgranÂŹ itecountÂŹ ers.cherncabinetn,tilefloors,andstainlesssteelappliancesincludingaJenn-Air modulargasgrillwithconvectionoven.Thereareibedrooms.M/2tiledbaths,anda17x1â-ft.artistsstudiodesignedbvthefinnofJohnGalvinStevens.Iheslateroofand copjxTflashingarenew,asarethe carelullvrecreatedwcxxlengutters, soffits.andnewcustominsulated windowswithinsidecleaningfeature. Iliefurnace(ZOOM,circular drivewavwithisland,andgranite stepsarealsonew.Attachedgarage; built-ins.originalfixtures,securitv svstemXrefinishedhardwoodfloors throughout.S6ât.OOO

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TheâStonehouseFarmâinBath. ARareHistonePropertyon26acresofmostlyopenfields withAdditionalAcreageAvailableWasbuiltasMame's FirstGovernorWilliamKing'sHuntingLodgenowbeing câeredforthe**sttimesince19â6Theth-eestory14momEnghs.-CountryManoro*ersoogmalarchitectural detailandexpansiveEasternandWesternviewsfromthe knollStonehouseofferseasyaccesstoConservation LandwithwaxingandcrosscountrypathstotheRiverSeparateCaretakerâsCottageBam.3car garageincluded.$799,000or1.400,000with80acres CallHeidiSargentformoredetails.
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â.ranas


Wheolwo IMStsMst
Ifamandidnâthaveacultivatedmind, Caroldidnâtwanttolookathimorbe nearhim.Thatwaswhyshewasnât interestedinanyoftheunmarried meninMonson.Evenasachildsheâd seenhowlimitedthistownwas.IIcrfather hadtotakeher20milesawavthreetimesa weeksoshecouldhaveviolinlessons.
Nowshehadtogofurtherawaytodo somethingjustasimportant.Shewas famousandwealthsbutdidnâthavea permanentmaninherlife.Bvtakinga year-longsabbaticalfromconcertizing, perhapsshewouldfindTheMan. Mavbe now,at39,sheknewcxactlvwhoshewas andwhohermateshouldbe.Shedoubted hecouldbeanywherewithinhundredsof milesofMonson.Thistownwasa microcosmofthewholeregion,which mostlikelyalsohadanabundanceof mindlessmediocrities.Manvofthemhad arrogantlypropositionedherlongago whenshewasavotingwidowandsold cosmeticsdoortodoor,andshehad enjoyedthwartingthembysneeringand walkingaway.
1lerfatherhadbeentheonlydoctorand probablytheonlyintellectualintown,and diedat40byworkingtoohard.Shewas12 thenandsoonsawthecoarsenessand meannessaroundher./\ndsetat18she foolishlymarriedtheboywhowasthe townâsfootballhero.Ayearlater,whenshe wasexpecting,shegotfedupwithhis philanderingandtoldhimhewasnothing morethanatwo-leggedanimal.Thenhe wenttohisparentsâhouseandshot himself.
Nowshewasnâtwastingtimehereand wasreadytogotoNewYork,andif
FICTION
BY CHARLES TEKEYAN
necessarytoChicagolateron,andto BostonandSanFrancisco,tofindwhat shewaslookingfor.Shehadplayedher violininallthosecitiesbuthadalways beentoobusytomeetandstudyvarious superiormenwhomighthavewantedto beherhusband.Hertasknowwasgoingto
takemonthsandmaybemorethanayear toaccomplish,andofcourseshewasgoing tomissLaura.Butsheintendedtoreturn fortwoorthreedayseverytwoorthree monthstobewithher.Isaurawas20now andanurseatthenewhospitalin Monson,andthankgoodnessshenowhad
AnOasisofPeace&Tranquility

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Route 26 North
Falmouth 04105-2520
20^-79^-5540
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THE MAINE CHRISTMAS TRADITION. Each holiday season thousands of families from around the region come home to the glory of Merrill Auditorium where they experiencethetraditionalcarols,seasonalfavorites andfestivespiritthataretheMagicofChristmas.
NEWSATURDAYMATINEEOPTIONS!
THURS. DEC. 11
7:30PM
FRI. DEC. 12 7:30 PM
SAT. DEC. 13 11 AM, 3 PM & 7:30 PM
SUN. DEC. 14 2 PM & 7:30 PM
THURS. DEC. 18 7:30 PM
FRI. DEC. 19 2 PM & 7:30 PM .
SAT. DEC. 20 11 AM, 3 PM & 7:30 PM
SUN. DEC. 21 2 PM & 7:30 PM
PORTLAND SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA
ToshiyukiShimaddyMusicDirector&Conductor PortTix (207) 842-0800 ⢠portlandsymphony.com
inScottaclosepersonwhosepresencein herlifewasnâtgoingtoheinconstant. Scottwasasuccessfullawyerand. accordingtoI-aura,vendevotedtoher. Carolhardlvknewhimbutlikedwhat Lauratoldherabouthim.Apparently,he wassomewhatculturedandrefined.WTiat Caroldidn'tlikewashisage:hewas35. Butitwouldbefoolishtoloseasuperior manmerelybecausehisagewasabithigh andhelivedinalow-downtown.The weddingwasgoingtobeintwoweeks, andCarolwasgivingthecoupleafine weddinggift.
Thegiftwasher14-roomhouse,built toherspecificationsfiveyearsagoon asmallmountain.Iliehousecost threemilliondollarsandthemountain costanothermillion,andtheviewwas magnificent-thoughitwasalsodreary. Thewholetownlasâbelowanditwas visiblefrommostoftheroomsbutalways remindedCarolofthemanyignoble cipherswholiveddownthere.âMy goodness,nowIâmcallingthemignoble ciphers,âshesaidtoherselfassheheaded forScottâsoffice.âThoseareharshwords. AmIbecominganarrow-mindedsnobas Igetolder?â
WTienshearrivedattheoffice,shewas hardlvtreatedlikeanolderperson-or likeanimminentmother-in-law.Scott keptlookingupanddownatherwitha flirtatioussmileandoncestaredather bosomandsaid.âToobadLaurawasnât lucksenoughtohaseafigurelikeyours." 1Ieseemedtobeamanwithlecherous impulses,butprobablyshewaswrong. Aftershesignedthepaperstotransferthe ownershipofthehousetohimandto Liura-alongwithitsfurnishingsandthe mountain,Scottsuddenlyputhisanus aroundherandtriedtokissher.She turnedherfaceaway,anddidnâtknow whatelsetodo.Despitehersuspicions abouthim.theincidentwascompletely unexpectedanditshockedher.Andnow hewasbrazenhkissingherdressand slobberingonitintheareaoverherchest, andshecouldn'tbelieveitwashappening. Nevertheless,sheclaspedhimand pressedagainsthim.andthenhe succeededinkissinghermouthand lettinghistonguegodeeplyintoit.Right afterwardssheregrettedtheintimacyand wasangnatherselfforenjoyingit.She

brokeawayfromhimandaskedwhvhe wasactinglikethis,andheshamelessly repliedthatheconsideredherthemost beautifulwomanheewermetandwas enchantedbyeverythingabouther-and nowwantedtomovetoNewYorkwithher.
âAreyououtofyourmind.Scott?Intwo weeks,youwillbemarrvingLiura.and sheâstheoneyoulose,isnâtthatso?"
âIdonâtknow.SheandIhavelittlein common.Shelistenstoallthepopular junk,andIloveyourkindofmusic.It takesagreatlads-toplavgreatmusicso beautifully."
Gosh,couldhebethemanshewas searchingfor?Didfaterevealhimjustin time-justbeforehegotmarriedand belongedtoanotherwoman,awoman unsuitableforhim?âButwait,thatwoman ismydaughter."Carolsaidtoherself, âandforyearsIwasoftenawayandshe wasdeprivedofhermother,andnowI willnotdepriveherofamate."
Firmly,sternly,shetoldScottthatshe hadabsolutelynodesiretobe romanticallyinvolvedwithhim,andwas goingtoforgeteverystupidthinghesaid anddidherethisafternoon.âYouwill marryIÂŤiuraasplanned,âshesaid,âand youwillsoonhavemanythingsin commonwithher,includingchildren, andbothofyouwillbevery 7happy togetherandverymuchinlove.Thatâs howitiswithmostvotingcouples.â
âTongotmarriedaroundLaura'sage, didnâtyou,andvouwerehappyandin love.Butdidnâtyourhusbandcommit suicide?â
"Ilowdareyoubringuppersonal mattersfrommvlife!"
âCarol,Iâmthinkingitwillbeabig mistakeifLiuraandIgetmarried.You see,Ineverfoolmyself.I'marealist."
"Andyouârelustfulandselfish.I'ma realrealist.â
Shethenrushedtohisdeskandgrabbed allthepapersshehadsignedandshoved themintoherhandbag.âIamputtingthe houseupforsaleandtakingLauratoNewYorkwithme."shesaid.âAndnoonein MonsonwilleversecmeandIjura again!"AsScottgloweredather,she marchedoutoftheofficeandfelt extremelyelated.Gettingawavfroma terriblemanwasalmostassatisfactoryas discoveringawonderfulone.
FICTION


Legendarygoldmedal-winningsailorPaulElvstromandhisrenownedfellowskipperPaulCayard. Twobrillianthelmsmenwhoshareaperpetualpassionforwindandwaves,andtheirRolex OysterPerpetualtimepieces.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust and Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master both in 18kt gold.
âWechoseGendron''
