Porschist 85 - Kazachstan

Untouched

KAZAKHSTAN

Where Europe ends and Asia begins, a fascinating country unfolds—vast in scale and breathtaking in beauty. Endless steppes, rugged mountain ranges, semi-deserts, and crystal-clear lakes create a truly spectacular backdrop. Amid this boundless natural splendor, strikingly modern cities rise unexpectedly from the landscape.

Why Kazakhstan? A Story of Its Own

It all began on an ordinary Friday afternoon in March, when the phone rang. On the line was a certain Iryna. A longtime fan of Porschist , she came straight to the point: would Kazakhstan interest us as a destination? Kazakhstan?! To be honest, it had never even crossed our minds. But the very question was enough to spark our curiosity. “Perfect,” Iryna replied. Though she lives in Belgium, she is Russian and well connected within political and diplomatic circles. “I can set a few things in motion for you,” she added decisively. A week later, we found ourselves stepping into the Embassy of Kazakhstan in Brussels. The ambassador was eager to promote Kazakhstan’s potential as a tourist destination and considered Porschist Magazine an excellent platform to do so. We were more than happy to hear it. His First Secretary, Mr. Nurgaliyev, put us in touch with the Kazakh Tourism Board, and before long, plans began to take shape. We decided to travel in July. Summer is the ideal season; in winter, Kazakhstan is far too cold. So we set off and experienced one of the most extraordinary journeys of our lives.

The Kazakhs are a proud people and keep their nomadic traditions alive.

Location and Population

On the world map, Kazakhstan is impossible to miss. With a total area of 2,724,900 square kilometers, it is the ninth-largest country in the world. Because it spans two continents, it is considered a transcontinental state. The vast majority lies in Asia, while a small portion -about 10% of its territory west of the Ural River - is regarded as part of Europe. To the north, Kazakhstan borders Russia; to the east, the People’s Republic of China; and to the south, Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan.

Across this immense expanse live just 20 million people, making Kazakhstan one of the most sparsely populated countries in the world. The nation is remarkably diverse, home to some 50 nationalities. Kazakhs form the largest ethnic group, accounting for 67% of the population, followed by Russians at 24%. There are also Ukrainians, Uzbeks, Uyghurs, Tatars, Azerbaijanis, and Koreans, a rich mosaic that reflects the Soviet past, when large population groups were relocated across the region.

The Kazakhs are a proud people and that pride is deeply rooted in their long history as nomads. Nomadic traditions lie at the heart of their cultural heritage and continue to be cherished and kept alive today. Many elements remain visible in modern life. The yurt, for example, the round tent that once served as a practical, portable home, is now used during celebrations such as weddings and national festivals. The horse, essential for centuries for transport, herding and defense, holds a central place in national sports and remains a powerful symbol of freedom. Traditional clothing, adorned with rich patterns and vibrant colors, is worn on special occasions, while ancient tales and epic legends are passed down through music played on traditional instruments such as the dombra . In this way, Kazakh identity remains firmly anchored in a rapidly modernizing world.

A Turbulent History

For centuries, the lands we now know as Kazakhstan were home to nomadic tribes who moved across the endless steppe with their herds, guided by the rhythm of the seasons. Thanks to its central location, the region became a vital link along the Silk Road, where goods, ideas, and peoples intersected.

After the collapse of the Soviet Union, Kazakhstan became independent on December 16, 1991.

In the 13th century, the territory was conquered by Genghis Khan and absorbed into the Mongol Empire. From the 18th century onward, the Russian Empire steadily expanded its influence, bringing Kazakhstan under tsarist control. In 1920, it became one of the fifteen republics of the Soviet Union. The harsh Soviet regime brought sweeping demographic and economic changes. Under Stalin, nomadic Kazakhs were forced to settle and the country underwent rapid industrialization. The human cost of this forced sedentarisation was immense: an estimated quarter of the four million Kazakhs at the time perished. Meanwhile, millions of non-Kazakhs arrived through mass deportations and migrations, one of the reasons modern Kazakhstan remains so ethnically diverse.

Following the collapse of the Soviet Union, Kazakhstan finally declared independence on December 16, 1991. Since then, the young nation has been forging its own path as a modern sovereign state rooted in its nomadic past, yet firmly focused on economic development and international cooperation.

Closer Than You Think

In truth, Kazakhstan is not as far away as one might imagine. From Frankfurt, we fly with Air Astana - the national airline - to Almaty in southeastern Kazakhstan in just six hours. Kazakhs are known for their hospitality, and we experience it immediately on board. The cabin crew is remarkably warm and genuinely enthusiastic when we explain the purpose of our journey. Just before disembarking, we gather the entire crew for a photo.

Almaty: A Cosmopolitan City with a Western Flair

With over two million inhabitants, Almaty is Kazakhstan’s largest and most multicultural city. Nestled at the foot of the majestic Tian Shan mountains whose snow-capped peaks are visible from almost anywhere in the city, it served as the country’s capital until 1997.

Almaty thrives on contrasts: between East and West, old and new, tradition and innovation. Sleek glass towers rise beside austere Sovietera apartment blocks. Trendy coffee bars and stylish restaurants sit comfortably alongside colorful bazaars and traditional teahouses. Apple trees line the broad boulevards, a nod to the city’s name, which literally means “rich in apples.” Somehow, the city feels familiar with infrastructure and a lifestyle that seem more European than Asian.

Almaty may not be a city of grand landmarks, yet several sites are essential stops. The Independence Monument on Republic Square is one of them. Unveiled in 1996, five years after independence, the imposing 28-meter column is crowned by the Golden Man , a mythical Kazakh warrior mounted on a winged leopard, symbolizing strength, freedom and the nation’s ancient heritage. On the same square stands Almaty’s City Hall , housed in a monumental late-Soviet complex from the 1980s: austere, symmetrical and imposing, with tall windows and a broad staircase.

A striking contrast is the sculpture Batyr , another Kazakh warrior, this time assembled from scrap metal: gears, chains and engine parts. The red Porsche positioned beside it completes the picture perfectly.

And then there is the Zenkov Cathedral , one of the few wooden Orthodox churches in the world. With its bright yellow façade, onion domes and richly colored decorations, it is a feast for the eyes. Remarkably, it was built entirely without nails and has withstood several major earthquakes despite its seemingly fragile structure. Just as we stand admiring it, a little boy drives past in a red pedal car. The model? A Porsche, of all things. Coincidence? Surely not.

The Zenkov Cathedral in Almaty is one of the few wooden Orthodox churches in the world.

Almaty’s Vibrant Art Scene

Almaty is Kazakhstan’s undisputed cultural capital, home to numerous theaters, concert halls and museums. The Almaty Museum of Arts , dedicated to contemporary art, opened just two years ago. On the square in front of the museum stands Nade , a work by the renowned Spanish sculptor Jaume Plensa, famous for his monumental, poetic human figures. The twelve-meter-high white sculpture depicts the head of a young woman with closed eyes and long braids, a subtle reference to traditional Kazakh hairstyles. The piece is deeply moving, an oasis of stillness and inner calm amid the bustle of the city.

Kok-Tobe: Almaty from Above

For the most breathtaking panorama of Almaty, we head to Kok-Tobe , a hill just outside the city center and a favorite spot among locals. The view is simply spectacular. The modern skyscrapers of the Nurly Tau Business Center with its distinctive pyramid-shaped roofs, stand out sharply against the skyline and serve as a clear landmark. Around them unfolds Almaty’s characteristic cityscape: the striking contrast between robust Soviet apartment blocks and contemporary high-rises. From Kok-Tobe, we also see just how green the city truly is. Its many parks and tree-lined avenues fully justify Almaty’s nickname: the “Green City.”

Porsche & Coffee

It’s time for us to get acquainted with some local Porsche drivers. We’ve been invited to a Porsche & Coffee event organized by the Porsche Club of Almaty. It’s a format many Porsche clubs around the world embrace: gathering in the morning for coffee and breakfast to catch up and exchange the latest news. As everywhere else, the Porsche Club in Almaty forms a close-knit community of people who genuinely connect through their shared passion. The Porsches are neatly lined up in front of the coffee bar. One of them is particularly special: a Cayenne S Transsyberia, an iconic rally-inspired limited edition that Porsche introduced in 2010 as a tribute to its successes in the Transsyberia Rally, a grueling 6,000-kilometer journey from Moscow to Ulaanbaatar in Mongolia. We can easily imagine this exceptional Porsche feeling perfectly at home on the rugged steppe plains of Kazakhstan.

Like everywhere else in the world, the Porsche Club forms a close-knit community in Almaty as well.

The Green Bazaar: A Feast for the Senses

At the Green Bazaar, Almaty’s large covered market, the scents, colors and flavors of Kazakhstan converge. Fresh fruit, aromatic spices, fish and meat, handicrafts and small curiosities, everything finds its place here. Countless stalls fill the hall, creating a vibrant tableau. Vendors invite us to try camel’s milk (decidedly pungent), steaming manty (a kind of dumplings) and local cheeses.

The market is more than a place to shop; it is a social hub where people meet and exchange the day’s news. In this lively atmosphere, we encounter the true soul of Kazakhstan.

At the Green Bazaar, the large covered market in Almaty, all the scents, colors, and flavors of Kazakhstan come together.

Charyn Canyon is often compared to the Grand Canyon in the United States, though you won’t find mass tourism here.

Charyn Canyon: A Landscape from Another Universe

A true highlight on our itinerary is Charyn Canyon , without doubt one of Kazakhstan’s most impressive natural wonders. It is often compared to the Grand Canyon in the United States, though the atmosphere here is entirely different: no mass tourism, but peace, silence, and space. About 200 kilometers from Almaty, the canyon winds its way for 150 kilometers along the Charyn River. Millions of years of erosion have sculpted a spectacular landscape whose colors shift like a chameleon throughout the day: soft pink in the morning, deep orange around noon and golden at sunset.

The canyon’s rugged beauty makes us feel as if we’ve landed on another planet. One of its most stunning sections is the Valley of Castles , an area within the gorge named after its bizarre rock formations resembling medieval fortresses and towers. Via a well-maintained path, we descend to the river, where poplar trees add a touch of green while towering rock walls, sometimes rising 300 meters high, surround us.

To our great surprise, Anton — a Porsche Club member we met the day before — arrives in his gleaming racing yellow Porsche Carrera S. “I thought my Porsche might make for some great photos in this setting,” he says with a grin. And he’s absolutely right: the contrast between the bright yellow sports car and the timeless landscape is nothing short of spectacular.

The contrast between the bright yellow Carrera S and the timeless landscape of Charyn Canyon is truly spectacular.

Tien Shan: The Heavenly Mountains of Central Asia

The Tien Shan mountain range surrounding Almaty strongly defines the city’s sense of space. Literally translated, Tien Shan means “Heavenly Mountains.” It is a vast mountain system stretching across Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, China and Uzbekistan. At approximately 2,500 kilometers long, it forms a majestic natural backbone of Central Asia. Numerous peaks rise above 6,000 meters. In both winter and summer, the mountains offer relaxation and adventure. During winter, they provide excellent skiing opportunities with modern ski resorts and an ever-expanding network of slopes for all levels. In summer, the mountains mainly attract hikers and nature lovers. A state-of-the-art gondola takes us within minutes to Shymbula , one of the best-known ski resorts whose base station sits at 2,200 meters above sea level. It feels as though we’re standing in the Alps: fresh green pines, valleys filled with wildflowers and snow-capped peaks.

Guzelya is waiting for us here. She is stunningly beautiful and works as a professional model. The traditional Kazakh outfit in soft green, adorned with elegant gold jewelry, suits her perfectly. When she has no hesitation posing on a rocky outcrop, we capture breathtaking images, more outstanding shots to add to her portfolio. Something tells us this young woman is destined to go far in the modeling world. She dreams of Paris. There’s a good chance that dream will one day come true.

The Tien Shan Mountains are an extensive mountain range that stretches across Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, China, and Uzbekistan.

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Turkestan: The Spiritual Heart of Kazakhstan

We leave the Almaty region and fly to Turkestan in southern Kazakhstan. Turkestan — not to be confused with Turkmenistan — is a city and region within Kazakhstan. Turkmenistan, by contrast, is a neighboring country which, like Kazakhstan, was once part of the Soviet Union and is now independent.

Turkestan is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia and has a rich history as a cultural and spiritual center.

Turkestan is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia and boasts a rich history as a cultural and spiritual center. Founded in 490 AD, it played a crucial role as a stop along the Silk Road. The Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi is the undisputed heart of the city, a place where centuries-old traditions are preserved. Khoja Ahmed Yasawi was a 12th-century Sufi saint and poet who had a profound influence on the spread of Islam among the Turkic peoples. His teachings inspired generations of Muslims throughout Central Asia, and the mausoleum built in his honor is today one of the region’s most important Islamic monuments. It is even said that three visits to Turkestan equal the Umrah , the minor pilgrimage to Mecca. With its enormous blue dome and intricate tilework adorning both the interior and exterior walls, the mausoleum is an architectural masterpiece. It comes as no surprise that it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Karavansaray Turkistan

We never thought we would ever spend the night in a real-life fairy-tale city, yet that is exactly what happens to us in Turkestan. We stay in a hotel that is part of Karavansaray Turkistan , a brand-new tourist and commercial complex built entirely in Aladdin style, with sand-colored façades, elegant arches, turrets and domes decorated with blue-turquoise tiles. Covering no less than 20.5 hectares, the complex includes two hotels, a wide range of shops and restaurants, and extensive entertainment facilities. A canal connects the different sections and flows into an artificial lake. In the evening, actors bring the folk legend of Kyz-Zhibek and Tolegen to life from boats on the water. We don’t understand the story, but the costumes and lighting are so enchanting that it is pure delight. Karavansaray Turkistan is part of a major investment project through which Kazakhstan aims to attract more tourists.

Karavansaray Turkistan is a brand-new tourist and commercial complex built entirely in Aladdin-style architecture.

The ruins of Otrar provide a vivid picture of the former trading city’s grandeur.

Otrar: Echoes of the Past

For several days, we have a white Cayenne Hybrid at our disposal. The distances to the places of interest around Turkestan are considerable — you can easily be on the road for four to five hours — so it’s a pleasure to travel in comfort. Today, Otrar is on our agenda. Like Turkestan, Otrar was a city that played a key role along the Silk Road for centuries. It emerged in the 8th century at a strategic location near the Syr Darya River, where trade routes from China, Persia and the Middle East converged. Otrar grew into a prosperous center of trade, science and culture. Sadly, the city was completely destroyed by an invasion led by Genghis Khan in 1219. Of its buildings, fortresses, bathhouses and mosques, only ruins remain today. Yet the remnants still capture the imagination and give us a vivid sense of Otrar’s scale and grandeur during its heyday. The medieval city gate has been fully reconstructed.

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The sight of the massive mountain ridges set against the open steppe landscape, with a herd of wild horses in the foreground, is indescribably beautiful.

Where the Horizon Never Ends: The Kazakh Steppe

Since arriving in the Turkestan region, we find ourselves in the midst of the vast Kazakh steppe that covers much of northern and central Kazakhstan. Thousands of kilometers of endless grasslands and semi-deserts offer breathtaking vistas. The landscape exudes an almost meditative calm, combined with a profound sense of boundless freedom. Here lies much of the essence of Kazakhstan. For centuries, this region shaped the lives of nomadic peoples who roamed the immense plains with their herds of horses, sheep and camels.

With our eyes fixed on the infinite horizon, we cruise through this extraordinary setting. The road is perfect and the Cayenne purrs contentedly. After about three hours of driving, the Kelinshektau mountains appear before us. Jagged rocks and steep cliffs rise abruptly from the plain, like a stone fortress in the middle of nowhere. The sight of the massive ridges against the open steppe landscape with a herd of wild horses in the foreground is of indescribable beauty. Vastness, silence, and pure natural splendor unlike anything we have rarely experienced.

The impressive Kazakh steppe covers most of northern and central Kazakhstan.

Lake Kobeituz: Pink Splendor, Fragile Nature

Beneath the expansive blue sky, Lake Kobeituz is a mesmerizing sight. Its vivid pink color is the work of Dunaliella salina , an algae species that thrives in the lake’s salty waters. Depending on the concentration of these microorganisms, the intensity of the pink hue varies. The lake is almost perfectly round, stretching about 3.5 kilometers in length and 3 kilometers in width.

In 2020, at the height of the coronavirus pandemic, Lake Kobeituz suddenly became immensely popular, attracting visitors from across Kazakhstan. Initially, people came to admire its breathtaking beauty, but the influx quickly took on extreme proportions. The shores turned into a busy photo hotspot and became polluted with litter and waste. The situation escalated when the unfounded belief arose that the pink salt had healing properties. People began extracting salt from the lakebed and selling it online at high prices. As a result, the ecosystem was severely damaged and the lake even started losing its characteristic color.

Fortunately, the authorities intervened. The area was closed off to allow the lake to recover. Today, it is accessible again but under strict supervision. All road signs have been removed, making it quite a challenge to find. From the highway, we end up on a maze of sandy tracks across a vast steppe without landmarks. At our wits’ end, we send our drone into the air and finally manage to reach our destination.

The bright pink color of Lake Kobeituz’s water is caused by Dunaliella salina , an algae species that thrives in salty water.

Astana: A Brand-New Capital

Astana, only 30 years old as the capital of Kazakhstan, is a young city that reflects the country’s rapid development and its ambition to position itself as a forward-looking, dynamic player on the world stage. We are impressed by the ambitious architecture and the visible prosperity. Futuristic buildings, wide boulevards, innovative city planning and a skyline to match: this is yet another face of Kazakhstan.

Why a New Capital?

There are several reasons: geographic, strategic, and economic. Surrounded by mountains, Almaty had reached its limit in size, leaving no room for expansion. Furthermore, Almaty is located in the far southeast of the country, near the borders with Kyrgyzstan and China. In the 1990s, then-president Nursultan Nazarbayev wanted a capital that was more centrally located and closer to the Russian border to strengthen his presence in the predominantly Russian north. The relationship between Kazakhstan and Russia has been a delicate balancing act since the post-Soviet era. Kazakhstan must assert itself strongly with its Russian neighbor while maintaining friendly ties, no easy feat.

We are impressed by the futuristic architecture and visible prosperity of the capital Astana.

It must be said that Astana is, of course, also a prestige project, one for which all resources were mobilized. A city built from scratch on a sparsely populated, empty steppe; a showcase designed to project a strong national image. That the region’s climate is harsh, with hot summers and brutal winters reaching -30°C (making Astana the second-coldest capital in the world after Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia) is not seen as an obstacle, but as a challenge.

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Architecture as a Calling Card

Astana stands out for its bold architecture and numerous symbolic monuments. The most famous landmark is undoubtedly the Baiterek Towe r, 97 meters high and commemorating the year 1997, when Astana became the capital. The white structure represents the mythical tree of life connecting heaven and earth, topped by a golden sphere symbolizing life, renewal and the future. Another example of original modern architecture is the Khan Shatyr Entertainment Center , a massive tent-shaped structure designed by the renowned British architect Norman Foster. Inside, you’ll find shops, restaurants, and even a tropical beach complete with palm trees and water features. Hard to imagine anything more extraordinary.

On the former Expo 2017 site, where the world exhibition with the theme “Future Energy” took place, Nur Alem draws all attention: an impressive glass sphere, the largest spherical building in the world, now housing the Museum of Future Energy and serving as the vibrant heart of a new city district.

Nur Alem is the largest spherical building in the world.

Amid all this futurism, European grandeur also appears, such as in the neoclassical Mangilik El triumphal arch, which references Kazakh history with its reliefs and sculptures.

And then there is the Grand Mosque , opened in 2022, a modern example of Islamic architecture. We love the classic color palette of bright white, turquoise and vivid gold, characteristic of mosques in this part of the world. The many domes resemble blue lids covering prayer and serenity. Inside, the mosque dazzles with colorful mosaics, calligraphy and soft geometric-patterned carpets. We marvel at the magnificent central dome, where light and space converge and a gigantic crystal chandelier adds a fairy-tale grandeur. The mosque can hold up to 30,000 worshippers. Even though we are not the only visitors today, we feel completely at peace and welcomed, despite not being Muslim.

The

Grand Mosque in Astana, opened in 2022,

is an example of modern Islamic architecture.

Porsche Centre Astana

We visit the Porsche Centre in Astana, where marketing manager Aida greets us warmly. The building and showroom fully comply with Porsche AG guidelines. While waiting for the Porsche drivers that Aida invited to meet us, we explore the three launch rockets located nearby. Of course, these are not real rockets, but fullscale replicas. There is also a replica of a Buran, the Soviet counterpart to the U.S. Space Shuttle. These exhibits are part of Kazakhstan’s National Space Center, an informative and educational facility about Russian space exploration and its close ties with Kazakhstan. A visit to the Baikonur Cosmodrome was high on our wish list but unfortunately not feasible. The parallel with Porsche, however, is striking. Two eras, one ambition: pushing boundaries.

A Porsche photographed in front of full-scale replicas of Soviet launch rockets. Two eras, one ambition: pushing boundaries.

Road Trip to Burabay

Aida has organized a road trip to Burabay National Park with five Porsche drivers, a journey of about 200 kilometers. After a hearty breakfast, we set off. The Porsches drive confidently. Speed limits? We didn’t ask, so we follow the others. Around noon, we arrive at the Rixos Borovoe Hotel , a large luxury resort, where lunch is already set. Afterwards, it’s time to explore the surroundings. Burabay National Park is often called the “Switzerland of Kazakhstan,” and we understand why. The landscape features dense pine forests and crystal-clear lakes. It’s no surprise that this is one of Kazakhstan’s most beloved natural areas.

Burabay National Park is also called the “Switzerland of Kazakhstan.”

Kazakhstan: A Land of Contrasts and Surprises

Kazakhstan exceeded all our expectations and surprised us on every level. From the breathtaking nature of Charyn Canyon and the Tien Shan Mountains to the vibrant city of Almaty, spiritual Turkestan and futuristic Astana. What makes the country so unique is the mix of nomadic traditions and Soviet heritage combined with modern ambition. You’ll find yurts on the vast steppe and gleaming skyscrapers in the city, Islamic calls to prayer alongside Russian Orthodox churches, and a population that is friendly and proud of its identity while still finding its path between East and West. ♦

Kazakhstan exceeded all our expectations and surprised us in every way.

Thanks to:

- Iryna Goncharova, lobbyist

- Embassy of Republic of Kazakhstan, Mr. Rakhat Nurgaliyev

- Kazakh Tourism, https://kazakhstan.travel/en

- Air Astana, https://airastana.com/global-en

- Almaty Tourism Bureau, https://visitalmaty.kz

- Visit Alatau, https://www.visitalatau.com/

- Turkistan, https://en.openturkistan.com

- Aida Nursultanova, Porsche contact

- Ussibali Ashir, guide Turkestan

- Zhangir Bagys, guide Almaty

- Astana, https://visitastana.kz/kz/

- Akmola, https://visitaqmola.kz/

- Karavansarav Turkistan, https://www.karavansaray.com/en/

- Porsche Centre Astana, Porsche Centre Almaty

- Porsche Club Kazakhstan

- Graatje Weber, Juliette van Montfort, drone operator

- Brasschaat Travel

Visit our website at www.porschist.be and watch the video accompanying this article.

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Sultan Zhexen:

a young voice from the heart of Kazakhstan.

At the Porsche Centre in Astana, we meet Sultan Zhexen. He’s twenty-four and has just returned from London, where he studied banking and international finance. What begins as a conversation with a Porsche owner quickly turns into a sharp, thoughtful analysis of a country constantly navigating between great powers, history and the future. Sultan’s view of Kazakhstan is clear, unfiltered and nuanced.

After five years in London, an international career was well within reach. Sultan admits that was the path he initially wanted to take. But his father called him back to Kazakhstan. “He said: I invested in your education. Now it’s time for you to give something back.” Sultan first restructured the financial organization of his mother’s fashion business. He then joined his father’s education company which works with Kazakh businesses and semigovernment institutions.

Balancing between Russia and China

Having studied abroad, Sultan looks at his country through both an insider’s and an outsider’s lens. Kazakhstan runs a structural trade deficit of several billion dollars a year. According to Sultan, that deficit is largely artificial. Around forty percent of imports come from Russia and another forty percent from China. “That balance is deliberate,” he explains. “Neither power is allowed to become too dominant. They have to keep each other in check.”

“The appetite for new concepts in Kazakhstan is enormous.” Sultan Zhexen

Since 2019, China has been investing heavily in Kazakhstan. That brings debt and influence, but Sultan does not see this as a threat. “China is strategic and calculated. We have raw materials; they have production capacity. China processes our resources and exports the finished products back to us. It’s mutual trade, even if China benefits more. Without China, Kazakhstan would fall almost entirely under Russian influence and that’s something we want to avoid.”

Cautious governance and neutrality

The bond with Russia runs deep historically. Kazakhstan never formally left the Soviet Union; it was simply informed that the Union no longer existed. As a result, the relationship with Russia can still feel, at times, like that of a former republic rather than a fully separate state. Russians and Kazakhs live together relatively harmoniously, unlike in, for example, the Baltic states. “That’s because of our multicultural makeup,” Sultan explains. “When the Soviet Union collapsed, only about 40 percent of the population was ethnically Kazakh. Another 40 percent was Russian, and the rest consisted of Germans, Koreans, and other communities.”

That reality forced Kazakhstan’s political leadership to act with caution. Radical decisions on language or culture were deliberately avoided. “Ukraine had a more homogeneous population and chose a much sharper identity-driven course,” Sultan says. “Kazakhstan couldn’t afford that. Under the leadership of the first president, Nursultan Nazarbayev, the country built a reputation as a neutral mediator. He understood that Kazakhstan had to be a place where different parties could come together and talk.”

The moral choice of denuclearization

According to Sultan, full independence remains an illusion for now. “In the 1990s, we did have that chance. Kazakhstan inherited the world’s third-largest nuclear arsenal. If we had kept it, our position today might have been completely different.” But Kazakhstan consciously chose denuclearization and handed over all nuclear weapons to Russia. Not out of weakness, but out of conviction. Large parts of the country had suffered severely from Soviet nuclear tests, with lasting health consequences. Kazakhstan even took an international lead in initiatives aimed at reducing nuclear weapons worldwide. “It was a moral choice,” Sultan says, “but one with major geopolitical consequences.”

“Kazakhstan today is characterized by a phenomenon known as ‘reversed chauvinism.' ”

Sultan Zhexen

‘Reversed chauvinism’ and identity

Today, Kazakhstan is marked by a phenomenon Sultan calls “reversed chauvinism.” For centuries, Kazakhs were told they were less capable: nomads rather than builders, laborers rather than leaders. Russian elites occupied key positions, while Kazakhs rarely had access to highly skilled roles. Russian was the language of power; Kazakh was associated with the countryside and lower status. “Even today, some people feel uncomfortable speaking Kazakh,” Sultan says. “It’s absurd, but it’s the reality.” That mindset is slowly but steadily changing among the younger generation.

A Soviet legacy

Corruption was long deeply embedded in Kazakh society, but it is gradually declining. It was a legacy of the Soviet Union, a direct result of the planned economy. “In a planned economy, supply and demand don’t operate,” Sultan explains. “The state decides what is produced, in what quantities and at what price. That creates structural shortages, which give sellers enormous power and lead to informal favors. A culture like that doesn’t disappear overnight just because a country switches to a market economy.”

He tells an anecdote about a local official who, in exchange for four million dollars, a fur coat for his wife, and education for his children in Geneva, granted an American investor access to raw materials worth billions. “He genuinely thought he was making a good deal.” The story is emblematic of an entire generation of officials who suddenly gained control over wealth on a scale they had never learned to comprehend. Soviet infrastructure was privatized within a few years at rock-bottom prices, not out of malice, but out of ignorance, temptation and a system that had never prepared anyone for responsibility. The personal gains were visible in luxury goods, foreign bank accounts and elite education, while the structural losses remained invisible spread across an entire society.

“Under the leadership of first president Nursultan Nazarbayev, Kazakhstan built a reputation as a neutral mediator.”

Sultan Zhexen

A country under construction

That legacy is still felt today and can even be seen in the streets. Astana looks futuristic, impressive, new. But if you look closely, Sultan says, you often notice a lack of finishing. Not because of a lack of resources, but because of mindset. For a long time, “good” was good enough. It didn’t have to be perfect. Thirty years of capitalism is nothing in historical terms. People have to relearn how to think about quality, responsibility, and precision and that mental shift takes time.

Looking ahead with confidence

Still, Sultan is far from cynical. On the contrary, he genuinely believes Kazakhstan is moving forward. Anti-corruption efforts, greater transparency and a new generation are driving change. He personally feels responsible for being part of that process. That sense of duty was instilled in him early on at the Nazarbayev Intellectual School where patriotism was not a slogan but a daily practice. “We were constantly told that we had to shape the future of Kazakhstan,” he says. “That idea stays with you.”

Entrepreneurship in an open market

Sultan sees his future in the private sector. According to him, Kazakhstan offers enormous opportunities. “What already exists in Europe or the United States is often still new here.” He vividly remembers the opening of the first McDonald’s in 2016: weeks of queues, day and night. For Sultan, it was a lesson. It showed how strong the appetite for new concepts is and how little competition there often is. “You don’t need to reinvent the wheel here,” he says. “Go to Europe or the United States, see what works, copy it, and build it here: better, cheaper and more sustainably.”

Porsche as a dream car

And then there’s Porsche. Sultan has owned his Cayenne for two years, since the opening of Porsche Centre Astana in 2023. His big dream was, and still is, a 911 Turbo S, but practical considerations led him to choose a different model. He opted for a Cayenne Turbo E-Hybrid. “I’m completely happy with it,” he says with a grin. “It’s a luxury SUV: powerful, versatile and perfectly suited for everyday use.”

When it comes to the hybrid aspect, he’s candidly ambivalent. “It’s not really my thing. Kazakhstan is a petrol country. Fuel here is literally cheaper than water.” For now, he doesn’t see fully electric driving as a realistic option. “I tried a Taycan and thought it was an amazing car, but the infrastructure just isn’t there. Even installing a charging point at home with my hybrid Porsche turned into a bureaucratic nightmare.” For the time being, the Cayenne remains the ideal compromise. “Fully electric is still music of the future here,” he says. “But Porsche, that was never in doubt.” ♦