Warsaw In Your Pocket City Guide_ Feb-March 2026

Warsaw

No. 144, February – March 2026

City Guide SINCE 2001

Featured this issue:

Polish Winter Traditions & Taste Sensations! p.10

Effigies, donuts and more: these are unique traditions

Cozy Cafe Culture p.14

Where to curl up with a book and a warm cappuccino

Hala Koszyki p.16

Step Inside the Heart of Modern Warsaw

Dr. Hauschka p.18

Brings Wellness to Warsaw in New Showroom

www.amberwarsaw.pl

www.warsawamber.pl

Jazdów

Lennona

You've been everywhere, you've seen everything, but... youhaven't experienced this yet!

e One & Only culinary & drunk & history experience!

Warsaw

Welcome to Warsaw

Located on the Vistula River at the very crossroads of Central Europe, Warsaw is the 8th most populous city in the European Union (1.8 million people) and a major cultural, political and economic hub.

The city has had a troubled history ever since King Sigismund III Vasa moved his royal court from Kraków, making Warsaw the new Polish capital in 1569. Pillaged by the Swedes in the 17th century, and occupied by Russia for most of the 19th century, Poland was off the map for 123 years before returning in the aftermath of WWI. The interwar period signalled a golden age for Warsaw, as the city developed on par with other great European capitals.

WWII brought new suffering, however. Occupied by Nazi Germany, Warsaw saw its cultural monuments defiled or stolen, and its Jewish population of 350,000 systematically exterminated. With liberation in sight, the Polish population rose up against their German occupiers in August 1944, only for Soviet forces to look on as the Nazis brutally crushed the Uprising and destroyed the city in reprisal. When the fires were extinguished, 150,000 more civilians were dead and German occupation had merely been traded for Soviet oppression, as Poland was pinned under Moscow’s influence for the next four decades, during which Warsaw was rebuilt in communist fashion, earning a reputation as a charmless city of concrete.

But that was then, this is now. A compelling blend of East and West, past and future, today’s Warsaw is a modern metropolis of complex character and rich rewards for those who get to know it. Gone are the gloomy images of yesteryear as the city restlessly evolves, buzzing with energy and optimism. Whether you’re here to explore trendsetting urban culture or UNESCO treasures, world-class dining or luxury boutiques, you’ll hardly be disappointed by all the modern capital has to offer. Enjoy Warsaw!

How to Use This Guide

Warsaw In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all of the ideas, tools and information you need to explore the city on your own, stay offline as much as possible, and really connect with the city you’re visiting.

Over here at IYP we still believe that the best way to understand the space you’re in is with a map, and the most immersive way to explore it is on foot. As such, our Sightseeing chapter is organised into geographic areas of interest with detailed district maps to help you navigate them. Selfguided district tours include descriptions of all the most important sites, plus local tips on where to eat and drink in each area. There are also intriguing ‘Crossroads’ moments that allow you to be lured towards alternative adventures, either on foot or via public transport.

Throughout the guide, page references are liberally used to lead you to related info on a topic elsewhere in the guide, while QR codes will take you to our website when we feel there’s more to know than can be expressed in print. Each venue listing includes a map coordinate (E-8, for example) that correlates to the city map on p.2-3. If there’s a specific venue you’re searching for, use the Venue Index in the back of the guide to quickly find it, or simply follow our informed suggestions.

Cover Story

Warsaw’s romantic Old Town and bustling city center, all dusted in snow. If you can find a good view from the rooftops, the Warsaw skyline is well-worth photographing.

Photo: lukszczepanski, AdobeStock.

Publisher & Staff

IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com

Circulation

12,000 copies published every 2 months

Warsaw IYP Online

Of course, space in our print guide is a finite resource, but if you don’t find what you’re searching for here, we’re confident you’ll find it on our website. Visit warsaw.inyourpocket.com for more info about the capital, and poland.inyourpocket.com to see just how much of the country we cover.

Here is some extra content we wish we had room for in print this issue:

Best Romantic Day in Warsaw

We're officially in Valentine's Day territory and even if you don't want to celebrate the day itself, there are plenty of reasons to treat yourself and your SO to a great date night.

Take a Day Trip!

When you've done everything in the city this winter, here's where you want to go: the cutest, coolest and most historic sites near Warsaw.

The Women of Warsaw

Warsaw has seen a lot of impressive women pass through its city streets -- from artists, to activists, from writers to scientists, feminist history in our city is awash with stories of bravery, strength and creativity. Celebrate these amazing women by reading about some of our favorites.

Editor: Anna Merriman

Sales Consultant: Jarek Śliwiński (+48) 606 749 643

Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494

Research: Karolina Adamik

Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman

Copyright Notice

All content copyright IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o Sp.k. and its partners, unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

Polish Winter Traditions & Taste Sensations!

For all that Poland has got going for it, the trend of making economic, social and cultural progress at breakneck speed, there’s one thing which keeps people in the country firmly grounded, a homage to generations past, and it’s all thanks to continuing a celebration of... age-old traditions. There are many of them, mostly with their origins in the Christian calendar or Slavic pagan rituals, but it seems there isn’t a month that doesn’t go by without some wacky form of ritual being observed.

Between February-April, the strangest of all has to be the Drowning of Marzanna (Topienie Marzanny) on the Spring Equinox (20 March). Marzanna is the Polish incarnation of the old Slavic goddess of winter, plague and death and to burn, then drown an effigy of her is a way for superstitious Slavs to protect themselves and encourage the timely arrival of spring and ensure a good harvest. It all sounds a little bit morbid, but today, despite not being as popular as in previous generations, young children in some kindergartens and primary schools still partake in this send off to winter.

The water theme goes on well into April, when on Easter Monday, ‘Lany Poniedziałek’ (Wet Monday) is observed by boys throwing buckets of water over girls they like and spanking them with pussy willows! The acts are often expected to be reciprocated! Now, it all seems quite bizarre, and some of you may be glad to know that it’s a tradition which has been the focus of heated discussion in recent years between those for and against it. Indeed, police warn the public in the run up to the day that to soak someone is deemed to be breaking the law and can lead to some serious financial fines and even jail time!

Those are just two of the more known, and quite frankly, odd traditions, however, the ones that remain more popular than ever are those which revolve around food and drink! Do we have your attention?

Got a Sweet Tooth?

Our favourite has to be Tłusty Czwartek (Fat Thursday, this year falls on 12 February), which is essentially Poland’s equivalent of Shrove Tuesday or Pancake Day (albeit 5 days before), celebrating the last opportunity to eat as many sweet and fatty delights before Ash Wednesday, marking the beginning of the fasting season of Lent. On this day, Poles are often seen partaking in another ole pastime: queueing. Yup! The queues just seem to stretch for miles, but it’s all with the good aim of waiting in line at a cukiernia (bakery) to get your hands on one of the best Polish treats there is – pączki (ponch-key). These are large deep-fried doughnuts typically filled with rose jam (or other marmalades), glazed with sugar, and sometimes topped with candied orange peel. Each cukiernia has their own unique varieties, ranging from chocolate filling to advocaat!

There are two particular locations in Warsaw selling some of the best pączki you’re likely to eat, with one being right in the city centre, it’ll no doubt be the most accessible to visitors – it’s the family run Cukiernia Pawłowicz on ul. Chmielna 13 (G-7), between the touristy ul. Nowy Świat and Metro Centrum. This place is a gold mine for treats, and

Effigies of Marzanna are drowned (and sometimes burned) to herald in spring in this Slavic tradition.

walking past even on a regular day leads to some heavy will power kicking in to resist temptation. They’re so popular, in fact, that they’ve opened up several other locations in the last few years... but we’re still suckers for the original.

The 2nd location is Pracownia Cukiernicza “Zagoździński” in the western Wola district on ul. Górczewska 15. This is one of Warsaw’s most famous family run bakeries, especially when it comes to the delights of pączki. Opened by Władysław Zagoździński in 1925 on ul. Wolska 53, (later on Wolska 66), it remained on this street until 1973, when they moved to the current address where the 4th generation of the family continue doing what they do best. It’s not uncommon to find a long queue here anytime of the year, but on Fat Thursday you can expect it to be even longer. And quite right! If you can muster up the patience to wait (be warned – sometimes hours), you won’t be disappointed!

Five days later, there’s another food based tradition, which may not exactly be to everyone’s taste. Celebrated on the Tuesday before Ash Wednesday, the last day to indulge before Wielki Post (The Great Fast/Lent) begins. It’s also the day that marks the end of the Karnawał (Carnival) period, which

in many other countries is the day people will celebrate before the forty days of fasting and religious observance should begin. In Poland this is known as Śledziówka or Śledzik (literally Herring Night) and you’ll find the traditional pickled herring washed down with shots of vodka in many homes, bars and restaurants. Be warned this can get messy despite the fact most people are supposed to be at work or university the following day. In 2026 Śledziówka falls on 17 February, and if you’re on town, there are plenty of vodka bars to try it, such as Pijalnia Wódki

New Traditions?

Who said traditions have to be old? The last few decades have seen an increased interest in some imported western traditions, even if they are mainly commercial. And the most famous of all is, of course, St Valentine’s Day (the 14th being a Saturday this year). Now, you wouldn’t think that Warsaw is one of the top 10 romantic destinations in Europe... and you’d be right, but that doesn’t mean you can’t have a perfectly lovey-dovey day in the city. Our top recommendation to you would be not to buy flowers – is it reasonable to buy your significant other a plant which is, essentially, dying after being chopped at the stem? Hardly the best symbol of your love, huh? Instead, focus on the experiences you can have together in Warsaw.

The city has some of the best dining experiences in not just Poland, but on a true European scale – don’t underestimate what’s on offer. To that end, if you’re looking for some extra special places to take your loved one, we wholly recommend the wonderful Elixir by Dom Wódki (p.95) with its food pairing

menus and great views looking out towards the National Theatre. The classy KUK Restaurant in the Old Town is another must (p.87) with divine food and elegant plating that’s sure to impress. Coming here, the setting is perfect for a relaxed and romantic evening. The oldest restaurant in Warsaw, U Fukiera (p.97) with its grand old age, is still up there with the big guns in terms of unique interior, mood, food and overall classy experience, right in the heart of the Old Town (p.38).

Once you’ve both had your fill of fine dining, a charming walk along the Royal Route (p.46) is always a grand idea. And later, the Palace of Culture’s (p.27) viewing terrace or HighGarden Rooftop Lounge and accompanying viewing terrace are great spots to look over the city. There are also plenty of rooftop bars (The Roof, p.101) is one of our favorites) that offer craft cocktails and incredible, romantic sights.

If the romantic side of things is less your thing, and/ or, you simply aren’t in Warsaw at the right time, you may instead be in the city on St Patrick’s Day (14 March), which again, was never celebrated in Poland with the same gusto as how the Irish Diaspora have always treated it in the US. That said, it’s become a popular night especially amongst students, with the city made of up of a large minority of international students who’ll accept any excuse for a party. You can enjoy some Irish madness, if you wish, near the Old Town in Molly Malone’s on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 41 (G-5), or at the Emerald Irish Pub on Al. Jerozolimskie 4.

Yet More Slavic Traditions to Come

We’ve already mentioned one of the most famous Slavic traditions -- the drowning of Marzanna -- but that’s not the only one! While much of the Pagan religion followed by Slavs was eradicated by the 14th and 15th centuries, many traditions have managed to stick around, despite Christianization. There are, of course, actual religious groups in Poland that still celebrate and follow Western Slavic religion. But, in recent years, there’s also been a resurgence of younger people celebrating some pagan rituals, not necessarily out of belief, but rather out of honoring past traditions.

As such, if you’re around in the summer or fall, you have two other popular Slavic traditions to look forward to (and even participate in!). So make sure to hold onto this article and return to it later this year.

Noc Kupały - Also known as Kupala night, this tradition is rooted in Eastern Slavic religion, but was popular through Poland and Western Slavic tribes as well. It marks the summer solstice in June or July, and in Slavic tribes, the holiday included a lot of different traditions, mostly held around water. In fact, the name “kupała” derives from the Slavic word “to bathe” and thus, older traditions would include mass bathing in the river. During pre-Christianity, Slavs would also spend the day gathering flowers, singing, dancing and having bonfires. Overall, the holiday celebrates joy, fertility and life.

the dead would return to the world of the living. In pre-Christian customs, Slavs would attempt to communicate with the dead to win favor (and thus, have better luck in fertility, harvest etc). They would do this by “feeding” the dead - i.e. preparing large feasts and dropping food on the ground, table or grave for the souls. They would also light candles to light a path for the souls of their ancestors toward their homes.

Today, the holiday that’s celebrated is strictly Catholic (though the origins still derive from Dziady): All Saints’

Today, Noc Kupały is still celebrated by many, either through a popular event called Wianki which sees outdoor concerts and bands come to Krakow, or through the more traditional, smaller gatherings. Head down to the Vistula River on Kupala night and you’re likely to see a lot of young people making wreaths out of flowers, affixing them with tea candles and sending them down the river at dusk.

Dziady - Coming from the Slavic word for “ancestors” or “forefathers” Dziady is, as you might guess, a tradition celebrated in honor of Slavic ancestors. As with many other religions and subcultures around the world, this Slavic tradition was held around Oct. 30 to Nov. 1, and believed to be a time when

Day in which Poles will go to the graves of their ancestors and clean them of leaves, light candles and have a somber moment of prayer. Essentially, the tradition, both then and now, is borne out of a desire to communicate with the dead loved relatives.

For visitors to Poland -- especially those not originally from Slavic and/or predominantly Catholic countries -- there are so many unique traditions to take in, especially this time of year.

You need something to deal with all this cold and snow! We recommend participating in as many traditions as you can! (Especially ones where Polish donuts are involved).

Cozy Cafe Culture

Warsaw is famous for many things, from history to architecture, activities and more. But in the winter, it’s known for just how cold it gets! This is bundle-up-andhunker-down kind of weather. Luckily for us, the city is also known for its incredible cafe culture. We recommend heading straight for the coziest cafe you can find and tucking into a good book as you warm up with a coffee or a hot cocoa.

Praga

Praga is simply rife with great cafes, but we’ve handpicked the absolute coziest ones. Start with Bułkę przez Bibułkę on Zwycięzców (p.88). In addition to great breakfast offerings, excellent coffees, and tasty (cheap) prosecco, it’s got the ultimate cozy vibe. There are comfy couches and benches, plenty of low lighting, and that brick-and-wood interior that makes you feel like you’re right at home. Move up the street a little to Francuska 30, where you’ll find a large interior with great comfy seating and a massive array of food and drinks. Also known as the umbrella cafe (for all of the decorative umbrellas outside), this is the ultimate gathering place in Saska Kępa.

Centrum

Cross the river to the center of the city and find a number of very cozy spots with comfy seating. Green Caffe Nero has a number of locations in the center all with low lighting and very comfy plush chairs. They serve tea, sandwiches and cookies, too! Or, if you’re into chocolate treats, head over to Szpitalna street and go to Pijalnia Czekolady E.Wedel, which has tons of very comfy chairs to curl up in and great chocolate to boot! The Espresso Bar on Emilii Plater is another great option, with a cozy, low-lit feel and big windows for ultimate people watching.

Plus, incredible sandwiches and snacks! And we’d be remiss if we didn’t mention one of our favorite spots: Słodki Słony on Mokotowska. Get drawn in by the colorful, floral decor and stay for the vintage interior, incredible pastries, and the fact that it feels like you’ve stepped inside the home of some chic babcia. Great coffee and the coziest vibe in town.

Old Town

There are tons of great places to duck in and warm up if you’re wandering around the Old Town. We’re big fans of To Lubię, on ul. Freta. It’s got a slight medieval vibe that fits well into the Old Town atmosphere, but it’s the warm drinks and comforting sweets that will really keep you coming back for more. Talking about medieval... it’s imperative that you go to Same Fusy. Tea Room and Cafe on Nowomiejska. It feels like you’ve stepped into the world’s coziest dungeon, or a tavern from Lord of the Rings. The walls are all brick, and there are candles throughout the space. Drinks are incredible, with matcha making a big appearance, as well as a whole array of great teas. This one is an absolute must.

We can’t get to every neighborhood in Warsaw, but these are a few of the best spots in the most popular areas. We recommend bringing a book and settling down with a matcha, a tea, a nice sernik (cheesecake) or a tasty coffee and riding out the cold!

Hala Koszyki Step Inside the Heart

of Modern Warsaw

The ultimate gathering place, Hala Koszyki is full of incredible Polish (and international) cuisine, drinks, and culture.

In recent years, Warsaw has boomed in the world of gastronomy, offering more options for incredible food – from light, elegant bites to rich dishes and everything in between. It’s a foodie heaven, with all kinds of international cuisines, and no place is more indicative of that than Hala Koszyki.

As the first food hall in Warsaw – operating for 10 years – Hala Koszyki is the place to immerse yourself in Warsaw’s world of gastronomy, especially increasingly popular contemporary Polish cuisine. For locals, this place is a staple; for visitors, it’s like stepping right into the epicenter of Warsaw city life.

Contemporary Polish Cuisine… and Beyond

It makes sense that the first food hall in Warsaw would offer incredible Polish dishes, but these places bring the idea of Polish food to a whole new level. For Polish street food, check out Kiełba w Gębie. Here you can get all kinds of great street food with Polish flair. Choose from a variety of burgers including the “Góral” burger which offers up traditional southern Polish smoked sheep’s cheese over a juicy patty. Also try tons of different kinds

of Polish sausages or the Polish classic, chicken de volaille. But street food is not the only way Hala Koszyki’s stalls approach Polish cuisine. Check out BAJS for more regional flavors, specifically Silesian cuisine from southern Poland. Here, try delicious dishes like dumplings with truffle or pumpkin and mushrooms, or starters like tartar and pickled herring.

If you’re looking for more of a traditional restaurant approach to general Polish cuisine, then Warszawski Sen by Mateusz Gessler is the best bet. Here, try elegant and elevated Polish food, served in artistic, fine-dining style. Beef tenderloin, duck confit, sea bass, risotto with chanterelles…. The list goes on and on.

Finally, a staple in Warsaw is Ćma by Mateusz Gessler – a 24/7 restaurant that offers excellent Polish food in a relaxed atmosphere. Try toast with mushrooms and spinach, pulled beef sandwiches, pierogi with

duck, marinated herring and much more. This is contemporary Polish food, done well and affordable.

Of course, that’s not all. Hala Koszyki is home to a whole plethora of other international foods – all under one atmospheric roof. The creme de la creme of the last decade of Warsaw’s gastronomic trends are all on offer including hummus, sushi, burgers, curry (Indian and Thai), seafood, grilled meats and artisanal sandwiches galore (check their website for a full list). Top class little independent bistros sit next to some of Warsaw’s biggest chain restaurants.

But what about that bar… This is without a doubt one of the biggest attractions of Hala Koszyki and immediately gives the hall the laid-back ambiance of an after-hours lounge. In fact, thanks to the bar, all of the food vendors also offer their own alcohol and many of them offer different craft beers on tap and in bottles, artisanal ciders, wines, original cocktails plus a bevy of alternative non-alco beverages from mango lassis to John Lemmons and everything in between.

A Cultural Capital

With all of those food and drink offerings, it’s entirely unsurprising that Hala Koszyki has become a staple in Warsaw and a core meeting place for all types of people, from local residents to businessmen and women out for lunch, to hip 20-somethings gathering over drinks and light bites. In fact, almost 3 million people visit every year! While much of this is due to the gastronomic offerings, it’s also largely due to Hala Koszyki’s impressive cultural and entertainment scene. In the evening, you’ll find DJ sets and concerts, and all day you’ll find great

entertainment at places like Arcade Bee. This spot really does deserve its own highlight: along with drinks and food, Arcade Bee offers private VIP rooms with karaoke, shuffleboards, arcades, billiards and more.

Food, beverages and cultural capital aside, there is also a “market” here! If you enter the market through the left wing you’ll undoubtedly run smack into the meat stall ie Crazy Butcher. They offer cuts of meat that you can normally only find in the finest restaurants in the city. You’ll also find Smak Natury which is a deluxe health food emporium. Elsewhere on the ground floor you’ll find a tea shop, a kitchen shop, a Mediterranean deli, jewelry, flowers and more. This is a place not only to spend an afternoon, but a whole day!

How it Came to Be

All of this, from cuisine to music and shopping, is housed within a unique architectural gem, giving your visit an incredible atmosphere.

Hala Koszyki was built more than 100 years ago on Koszykowa Street in Warsaw—on the site of what was then the Koszyki manor—and was designed as a market in the Art Nouveau style. The ‘new’ Hala Koszyki opened in 2016 after a giant 5-year restoration and revitalization project. Their mutual love of the original market hall is apparent in every last detail, right down to the cleaning and the reusing of original individual bricks, restoring original lattice metalwork and sculptural details relating to products on sale in the original market by sculptor Józef Zygmunt Ott.

Thanks to many of the modern design tweaks and incredible aesthetic details like the expertly curated background music, walking through the halls, perusing the stalls and climbing the catwalks of Hala Koszyki is a wholly unique experience. The designers and investors were certainly inspired by the mission and functionality of the original Hala – a community marketplace where locals could do their daily or weekly shopping and commune over some good food—but they’ve added a breathtaking atmosphere and exquisite events.

Food, drink, music, activities, shopping and atmosphere – Hala Koszyki is the best of contemporary Warsaw, all in one place.

Hala Koszyki

QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 221 81 84, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00 01:00. X­T­U­6

Dr. Hauschka Brings Wellness to Warsaw in New Showroom

You can find the full array of Dr. Hauschka’s skincare products at their new, stylish showroom.

Tucked into the leafy neighborhood of Old Żoliborz there’s an exciting new gem: a haven of beauty, mindfulness and overall wellness. This is the new Dr. Hauschka showroom, one of five of its kind in the entire world, which just opened in Warsaw to display top-tier, holistic skincare products. Since its founding in Germany 60 years ago, these products have become popular across the US, Europe… and the globe.

A visit to the new showroom, which just opened in December, is a must for even the slightly wellnessminded people. Unlike many other skincare shops, visiting this place is a full-fledged beauty and wellness experience. Sip sparkling water or a light coffee while you sample marigold-infused hand cream, bite into a crispy cookie as you try on chemical-free mascara.

For beauty enthusiasts (or even those curious about beauty and skincare), a few hours in this showroom is the start to a dream day.

A Wellness Respite

Upon entering the clean, bright showroom on Zygmunta Krasińskiego in Old Żoliborz, the first thing that will hit you is the aroma. It smells like sandalwood and candles, slightly floral and just

a touch earthy – aromas that evoke memories of yoga studios and quiet meditation. A bouquet of herbs and flowers sits in the center of the room, surrounded by candles and decorative trees, and branches adorn the windowsills.

The entire interior seems to inspire calm right away, and stepping inside is like taking a breath of fresh air. Amid the tranquil atmosphere of the showroom, your eyes will land immediately on the backlit wall of products – hand creams and eye serums, body oils and bath products, face wash and morning cream… it’s all here in elegant little white bottles.

It’s likely you’ve seen Dr. Hauschka products before – they’re popular in every beauty supply store across Europe, the Americas, and Asia – but it’s unlikely you’ve seen so many in one place. Around 170 supplies, from skincare to makeup, can be found in this showroom, and they’re all available for sampling.

That’s the other thing: apart from the atmosphere and the relaxing feel of this place, there are so many practical reasons to visit….

Expert Care

One of the biggest offerings that the new showroom has is the chance to get personalized, special attention from skincare experts who can help you choose exactly the right products and routine for your unique skin.

So after you enter and admire the space, speak with one of the experts about your needs. They’ll start by asking you what you’re using now, and then recommend a product that will work better for wintery dryness or one that will calm under-eye bags, or another to soften your hands – it’s all here! Not only that, but they know how to take care of their visitors. As you listen to the recommendations – from specific products to exactly how to use them and wear them – you can enjoy refreshments from a little espresso machine on the counter, or take one of the bottles of sparkling and still water. Munch on a cookie or taste a piece of Polish fudge as you bask in the wellness and beauty retreat.

Natural Products, Clear Results

Getting a Dr. Hauschka showroom in Warsaw –especially when it’s one of just five showrooms worldwide – is a big win for the city. It’s not just any skincare – this international brand is famous for its natural approach to beauty and skin health. Dr. Hauschka products are all about working with your skin, not against it. Made from 100% natural

ingredients, their formulas contain zero mineral oils, silicones, PEGs, or synthetic preservatives—just carefully chosen plant-based ingredients. They believe that skin has its own natural rhythm, and when supported properly, it knows exactly what to do. Dr. Hauschka products are designed to stimulate the skin’s natural processes during the day—when it protects itself from the outside world—and to encourage regeneration at night. That means they use all kinds of medicinal plants like rose, witch hazel, anthyllis, apple blossom, and marshmallow, which all balance, strengthen or otherwise support the skin.

Try out their iconic rose day cream that comforts sensitive skin, or the refreshing toner that wakes up your face. Everything is really purposeful and thoughtfully put together here – including the entire skincare routine that a Dr. Hauschka expert can help you craft for yourself.

It makes so much sense that this is the result of nearly 60 years of innovation and scientific research that’s gone into their products. And now, you can feel it all for yourself right here in the city!

More to Come

With only a month under their belt, Dr. Hauschka’s showroom is planning some bold moves – ones that will rival their other four showrooms in Asia, Germany, France and America. The goal is to go beyond just selling skincare products, to creating an entire wellness experience. And the plans for this experience are mighty! First, they plan to host workshops around wellness and lifestyle (with plans to create vision boards and help visitors envision and achieve some of their biggest goals) and makeup (particularly, proper application). The aim is to help people live their best, most holistic and wellnesscentered lives.

As part of that, they plan to begin renovating another room of the showroom in the spring, where they will be able to offer massage treatments. Whether you’re visiting from abroad, or you’re a local, the news that Dr. Hauschka has come to Warsaw with an innovative, bright, and relaxing showroom, is a boon. It’s well-worth taking a tour for yourself on your travels, treating yourself to a face cream, a massage (in the summer), and a new outlook on your life and wellness.

Dr. Hauschka Showroom

QZygmunta Krasińskiego 27, MPlac Wilsona, tel. +48 888 75 76 77, www.drhauschka.pl/. Open 12:00 18:00; Sat 11:00 15:00; closed Sun.

Traditional Polish Dishes

Polish food is famous for being simple, rich and very filling. Below we list the most well-known dishes you simply must try while in town, all of which you should be able to order from any Polish restaurant worth its salt. Smacznego!

Bigos

Barszcz

A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.

Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’ ‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

Golonka

Gołąbki

Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is like a ‘cabbage enchilada'. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served with tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman.

Pierogi

Kotlet Schabowy

Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being tenderised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.

Poland’s most famous food, you can't leave PL until you’ve had them. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato, sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and served literally everywhere.

Żurek

Placki Ziemniaczane

These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl.

Drink Like a Local

The Italians have wine, the Spaniards have wine. The French…. also wine. But what does Poland do best when it comes to alcohol? Vodka and beer.

These are the two most popular alcoholic beverages in Poland, and that means that brewers and distillers alike have spent a lot of time honing their crafts. Here’s a rundown of the history of these two popular drinks.

The Long History of Vodka

The name “vodka” (an anglicised version of the Polish “wódka” pronounced “v-ood-kah”) means quite literally “little water.” The origins of the drink date back to the 8th century, when distillation was discovered and the practice began to sweep across Europe. When it comes to vodka itself, the first written record of the drink came out in 1405 in Poland.

Originally, it was used as medicine: it helped treat wounds, numb pain, make perfume. But the consumption of vodka became more popular in the 15th and 16th centuries as it became industrialized across the country, with distilleries opening in Kraków, Gdańsk and Poznań (in fact, the popular Żubrówka vodka dates back to this century).

The popularization of vodka continued at a quick clip in Poland, hitting some bumps along the way

(production slowed during the wars at the beginning of the 20th century). Now, Poland is one of the top three producers of vodka in the world, and produced nearly 100 million liters in 2016 alone.

Vodka Traditions

Poles are proud of their vodka and as a result, there are many traditions surrounding the drink. You may not run into all of them when you visit, but here’s a run-down just in case:

Na zdrowie – say this as you clink glasses and make sure to look your drinking partner in the eye or you’ll have years (some say 7, some say 5) of bad luck.

Christmas vodka – drinking a shot of vodka (sipping, not tossing it back) with some good pickled fish (Śledź) is a classic Christmas tradition. In fact, pickled fish and vodka commonly go together at any time of year.

Wedding shots – After the ceremony, the bride and groom will each get a shot of vodka and they’re supposed to down the shot, toss the glasses behind their backs, and break them. The broken glasses signify good luck in the marriage.

Vodka Types

There are many good Polish vodkas but also some classics.

Żubrówka – this is a Polish vodka from the 16th century that is just a classic staple. One popular kind has a sprig of bison grass inside, which makes the drink a little bright and earthy.

Goldwasser – bet you didn’t know this was Polish! This is a classic from the Gdańsk area, and you’ll know it because it has gold flakes floating inside and a slightly cinnamon-y taste.

Chopin – This is just a good vodka. It’s not too sharp, well balanced and it goes great with everything.

Luksusowa – Finally, the people’s vodka. This is good and affordable. This is what people buy to drink with friends on an unassuming Friday night.

Where to get it:

The better question is where not to get vodka in Warsaw? The Polish Vodka Museum (p.64) and the Vodka Museum (p.75) will each take you on a tour through the history of vodka and give you a chance to try some! Klar (G-5) is known for their unique vodka flavors, which are constantly changing as they find new ways to infuse vodka with berries, herbs and spices! Pijalnia wodki i piwa is a chain with plenty of vodka types to sample and enjoy.

Craft Beer Becomes Big

Poland also has a long history with beer that dates back to the middle ages. But it wasn’t until the 18th and 19th centuries that beer became mass produced on an industrial scale. The Tychy Brewery, which produces the extremely popular beer Tyskie, has been around since the 17th century.

The initial styles beloved by Poles were porters (dark beers) and then pale ales (much lighter beers) swiftly began to take over. Like vodka, beer production hit some bumps in the early 20th century but picked up again in the late century.

And that brings us to today – almost. While many of those lager-style beers have reigned in popularity for decades, the past 10 years have seen smaller breweries start getting in on the beer game. Many home brewing operations started making craft beer, and by making smaller batches than

industrial brewers, they were able to focus more on experimenting with non-traditional ingredients and techniques, leading to more interesting flavors.

Craft Beer Types

Pinta – around since 2010, this brewery is one of the most popular craft breweries in all of Poland, and regularly makes hazy IPAs, sour beers, pale ales, pilsners – the works!

Funky Fluid – a Warsaw-based brewery, this is another type of craft beer that’s been gaining more and more popularity over the years for its bold flavors of hoppy, wild and sour beers (and more!)

Trzech Kumpli – brewing since the start of the craft beer craze in about 2014, this brewery makes a lot of dark beers (smoked porters, Irish stouts) as well as light lagers and pilsners.

Piwne Podziemie – one of the smaller craft breweries, but that means they can really focus on their flavorand they deliver! For the beer snobs who have tried every type, this is the beer to grab.

Where to get it:

Well of course you can buy the large-scale, industrial beers (Tyskie, Lech, Żywiec) pretty much anywhere. But for craft beers, you have to know where to go. Pinta has a bar specializing in their beers on Chimelnia Street. Other bars like Jabeerwocky (G-8), Kufle i Kapsle, will also offer great craft beers, Drevny Kocur, and Browary Warszawskie (p.30) are very popular, too. Plus, don’t miss the beer festivals held in the spring and fall in Warsaw!

Transport

Travelling around Warsaw by bus, metro and tram is fast, efficient and affordable; driving a car through the centre, on the other hand, can be confusing and frustrating. As such, for visitors the city centre is best navigated by bike, scooter, public transport or taxi/ride share - all of which are explained here. For detailed info about Warsaw’s airports and train stations, visit our website.

Public Transport

Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system, as well as a good metro system with the M1 line running north-south and M2 running east-west. Over 1,900 buses operate in and around the city, and run 05:00-23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops.

Standardised tickets are valid for use on the metro, buses and trams, and can be bought from machines with instructions in English at all metro stations, and some bus and tram stops. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on the actual buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only.

A standard single fare costs 4.40zł for 75min, or 3.40zł for a 20min ticket. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll need a 7zł ticket

that covers both zones 1 and 2 (note that the airport is still in Zone 1). Tickets valid for 24 hours, 3 days and a special ‘weekend’ ticket might also be worth considering. Those over 70 ride for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7, but you must have photo ID (those who ride free still need a ticket/’wejściówka’ to get through the gates of the metro - find wall dispensers next to the gates and hang on to the ticket for multiple rides). Everyone else pays full fare, unless you have an ISIC card which entitles you to a reduced fare (‘ulgowy’ ticket).

Once you’re through the electronic gates of the metro, you’re ready to ride. For buses and trams, however, there’s one extra step - validating your ticket immediately once you’re on board in the small ‘kasownik’ boxes on trams and buses. Plain clothes ticket inspectors stalk the lines, dishing out hefty fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification.Qwww.ztm.waw.pl

Getting Around

WawaBus

WawaBus offers a private transportation service to bring you to and from the airport, your hotel, your dinner reservation... well, pretty much wherever you need to go in Warsaw! Not only that, but the sleek, modern cars and well-experienced drivers ensure that your trips will be as hassle-free, comfortable and enjoyable as possible! The service is on offer for both individual tourists and businesses -- and there's no need to worry about a language barrier. In addition to being prompt and experienced, the drivers each know at least one foreign language. Plus, the service is offered 24/7 so you can relax when it comes to getting to that 6 a.m. flight. QG‑8, ul. Dziatwy 14C/12, tel. (+48) 515 00 10 01, www.wawabus.pl/en. Open 24/7.

Traficar Car Share

Want your own car, but just for a short while?

Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code, and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don't have to pay for gas! Everything is done through their easy-to-use app and it all feels very modern and more importantly... very easy!

In terms of cost versus a taxi, it comes out about the same, but as an alternative to car rental, Traficar is a wonder. You can rent a vehicle for as long as you want at only 4.99 zł to start and then 2.19 zł per kilometer, or for 24 hours: only 69 zł a day and then 1.29 zł per kilometer. You can even drop it off in another city where Traficar operates. As such, this is a great option for day and weekend trips, big shopping trips, or simply picking up friends at the airport. Note that you need to have a valid driver’s license that is recognised in PL.Qwww.traficar.pl. Prices are calculated as 4.99zł to start a journey, plus 2.19zł/km.

Warsaw Sightseeing

When it comes to Sightseeing, visitors should be sure to experience the dynamic synergy of Warsaw as a modern metropolis that still nurtures its cultural spirit and traditions. To this end, our guide details the capital’s most important districts, walking you through not only the antiquated Old Town (p.38), regal Royal Route (p.46) and the imperial beauty of Łazienki (p.56) and Wilanów (p.60), but also around the soaring, frenetic City Centre (p.28), happening Powiśle (p.52) and scruffy Praga (p.62). If your time is limited, however, here’s a cheat sheet of the city’s most unmissable sights.

8 Essential Sights

1 Plac Zamkowy

More of a triangle than a square, and home to the Royal Castle, this popular plac is where modern Warsaw meets the Old Town.QSee p.39

2 Old Town Square

A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII.QSee p.42.

3 Polish Vodka Museum

One of the best visits in Warsaw, this museum will take you on a tour through Poland's national drink, including tons of history and even a tasting at the end!QSee p.64.

4 Łazienki Park

Full of incredible art and architecture this massive park and palace complex offers spectacular opportunities for sightseeing.QSee p.56

9 Palace of Culture & Science

Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’, this 237-metre-high structure was Warsaw’s tallest building until 2021, and takes its inspiration from the capitalist worldnamely the Empire State Building. Working around the clock, it took over 5,000 workers - ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village - just three years to finish the Palace in 1955 With 3,288 rooms inside, the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just Communist Party headquarters but also as ‘The People’s Castle.’ Now an iconic part of Warsaw’s landscape, the Palace is celebrated by some, while for others it merely represents Russian hegemony.

At present the building hosts several theatres, a cinema, numerous bars, restaurants and cafes, and a tourist info office, as well as the National Museum of Technology and the Museum of Evolution Tours of the interiors are offered hourly in Polish between 10:00 and 15:00, and in English at 16:00. Book tickets online in advance, or skip the tour and head straight to the outdoor viewing terrace on the 30th floor (via elevator) for thrilling panoramic views; tickets available online.

QE‑8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 08:00 20:00. Viewing terrace open 10:00 20:00; terrace admission 28/23zł. U

5 Wilanów Palace

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17thcentury royal palace 10km to the south.QSee p.60

6

Highline Warsaw

A stunning view of the entire city is seen here, at the top of the tallest building in the EUQSee p.81.

National Museum

7

With tons of art from the 20th century and beyond, plus great exhibits on ancient Greece and rome, this is a must!QSee p.75

8 Warsaw Rising Museum

Telling the history of the 1944 Warsaw uprising against the Nazis in increadible detail, with stories from actual people, tons of interactive elements, and history upon history. This will leave an impact. QSee p.79

Warsaw ‘City Centre’

Known locally as ‘Śródmieście,’ Warsaw’s City Centre isn’t exactly a district (it comprises several, actually), but more of a catch-all term for the downtown area. Definitions vary, but generally, you know it when you’re in it - wide streets, monumental buildings, billboards, busy crosswalks and little to stand in the way of progress. It’s the modern, fast-paced, forwardlooking part of the city radiating out from the Palace of Culture & Science, and it’s here that you’ll find the majority of the city’s hotels, restaurants and bars, but also government buildings, skyscrapers and places of commerce - the dynamic heart of the contemporary capital.

In terms of tourism, it’s not exactly inviting, so why start here? Well, chances are you’re staying in the City Centre and probably there right now, so let’s get familiar with what’s around before running off to the Old Town (p.38). Despite not being particularly cosy or nostalgic, there are still many points of interest downtown, and nowhere more conveys the modern character of the Polish capital.

Anielewicza

Pawia

Pawia

Gliniana

Pawia

Dzielna

Smocza

Nowolipki

Chłodna Słupecka

Spi

Nowolipie

Ogrodowa

Grzybowska

Srebrna Dzielna

Platynowa

TarczyńskaDaleka

Nowolipki

Dantyszka Złota

Reja

Places to Explore

1 Plac Piłsudskiego

Used over the centuries for military parades and national celebrations, this is Warsaw’s largest square Named after legendary inter-war Polish leader, Józef Piłsudski; you’ll find a statue of the Marshal guarding his naming rights with a stern gaze nearby. The space has undergone quite a few rebrandings thanks to the changing political landscape, including a stint as ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ under Nazi occupation. During the era of Partitions, the huge orthodox St. Nevsky Cathedral was built here. Considered a symbol of Russian oppression, it was razed after Poland regained its independence. It was here that in 1979, Polish Pope John Paul II gave an open-air holy mass to 500,000 people, instilling hope in the struggle against the repressive communist system. In 2018, two new monuments were addedboth relating to the tragic and highly politicised Smoleńsk Air Disaster in which a plane carrying 96 members of a Polish government delegation crashed in the Russian forest in 2010; everyone on board perished, including President Lech Kaczyński, whose monument here gazes upon that of the other victims. At the western end of the square you’ll find the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the broken colonnades of Saxon Palace - the grand structure this square stood in front of until its destruction during WWII. Here, the ashes of unidentified soldiers who died for the Polish cause are interred and an eternal flame is guarded by stone-faced soldiers. If you enjoy a bit of military theatre, you can watch the official changing of the guard every hour, on the hour, 365 days a year. QF‑6, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

2 Saxon Garden

Plac Piłsudskiego’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier almost serves as an entrance gate into Saski Park, aka Saxon Garden. This historic 15.5ha park is the oldest in the city, and became one of the first public parks in the world when it opened to all in 1727. At that time it was a Baroque garden with the grandiose Saxon Palace playing a role very similar to the Palace of Versailles in Paris’ famous park. Despite its demise during WWI, Saxon Garden still offers several historical points of interest, in addition to lots of benches, plenty of shade and a much-needed escape from the urban din of the capital.

The centrepiece of the gardens is a large fountain created in 1855 by renowned Warsaw architect Henryk Marconi. The alleyways running out from it are lined with blooming flowers, ancient trees and neoclassical sculptures. In the northwestern part of

the park, you’ll find the Romanesque Water Tower from 1825 - also designed by Marconi, and modelled on the famous Temple of Vesta in Tivoli.QF‑6, Between ul. Marszałkowska and Plac Piłsudskiego, MŚwiętokrzyska.

3 Browary Warszawskie

Once one of Central Europe’s most famous brewing complexes, this 4.5ha area has been revitalised into a trendy urban culture and gastronomy district, densely packed with dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars, bakeries and shops. Mixing bold new architecture with restored historical buildings, post-industrial design with public green spaces, the heart of this ‘city within the city’ is Food Hall Browary - 14 food conceptsat restaurant stalls in the former cellars. The historic Browar Warszawski (Warsaw Brewery) itself has also been revived and is once again producing craft beers (18 different types!) for local hopheads, while other highlights include a sports bar part-owned by Robert Lewandowski (Nine’s). The food is delicious and so is the atmosphere.QC‑7, ul. Grzybowska 60, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.browarywarszawskie.com.pl

4 Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire

One of Warsaw’s newest public spaces, European Square was created by Wirtz International Landscape Architecture as part of the impressive Warsaw Spire - Poland’s 3rd-tallest skyscraper at 220m. Both the square and the office building have won awards for their design. This small square has a lot of features: trees, benches, fountains, reflecting pools, two large murals, an amphitheatre, a unique Art Walk gallery where changing exhibits are displayed, and an iconic 3D Instagram-baiting installation that says ‘Kocham Warszawę’ (I Love Warsaw). Of course there are cafes, bars and food options as well, making this a very unique and worthwhile place to hang out in Warsaw’s business district.QC‑7, MRondo Daszyńskiego.

Whether it’s summer or winter, a stroll through Saxon Park is always beautiful.

Find us

find an impressive museum history, an incredible food hall with international cuisine called Food Town, cinema, an Event Hall with more than 600 square meters of event space, a fitness centre, shops, cafes and more - including a bevy of events. Young families will also find a lot of options here, starting with Smart Kids Planet (p. center for young children to partake in the fun with highly interactive games, activities and more! QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, (+48) 22 318 88 88, zgloszenia@fabrykanorblina.pl www.fabrykanorblina.pl. T­E­6

6 Plac Grzybowski

This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction is the 19th century Saints’ Church . From 1941 it was Ghetto and Parish Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski helped to house Jews in the rectory and assisted several to escape.

Rebuilt after the war, the entire square has been

Warsaw City Centre | Sightseeing

7 Plac Defilad

Most people arrive to the Polish capital via Warszawa Centralna train station, which, together with the Palace of Culture (p.27), basically comprises Warsaw City Centre’s ground zero. Plac Defilad is the vast, concrete sprawl around the Palace of Culture, but particularly the east side. As the name ‘Parade Square’ hints, this mostly empty plot was created by communist-era city planners in the 1950s, along with the Palace of Culture. Measuring 24ha, it was until recently the second largest public square in the EU, though no one would have mistaken it for a proper square.

For years it’s mostly been parking, but plenty of historical events have taken place here, from PRL propaganda parades, to massive rallies for Pope John Paul II, to Christmas markets, ice rinks and New Year’s Eve concerts. After a long construction period, the new, sleek Museum of Modern Art opened in October 2024, coinciding with the introduction of Plac Centralny (Central Sqaure) - essentially, the central part of Plac Defilad surrounding the museum is being turned into a greener, more pedestrianfriendly space under the new moniker. This is wellworth checking out because it really does feel like the heart of the city, and there's plenty of options for food, drink and planning your next move.QF‑8, Plac Defilad, MCentrum.

8 Złote Tarasy

There is plenty of great shopping to be had in and around Warsaw, and Złote Tarasy, seated next to the central train station, is no exception with great stores like Sephora, Van Graaf and Zara. But many people actually admire the complex for its ultra modern architecture. It’s a good idea to check out the space, which has a 10,000m glass dome fitted with a special mechanism to both filter sunrays and stop snow from building up. The dome itself is reminiscent of waves, water, balloons -- basically any form without a straight edge. The 1.5 billion zł project was designed by a California-based firm and construction began in 2002. After it was completed in 2004, the design won the firm an award by a famous London-based architecture magazine. QE‑8, ul. Złota 59, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 222 22 00, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open 09:00 22:00; Sun 09:00 21:00.

9 Pasaż Wiecha and the Eastern Wall

Initially, the buzzword for architects in the region was Socialist Realism, a severe style following strict guidelines from a Soviet masterplan. The death of Stalin in 1953 changed all that and architects looked to the west for inspiration. This led to all manner of brutalist monstrosities rising from the ruins left after WWII. One of the most monstrous among them was this massive wall of buildings, which is now

among the oldest department store/retail complexes in Poland. Designed by architect Zbigniew Karpiński and completed in 1969, the buildings were hailed a work of genius, but soon fell into neglect, their reputation changing to that of an enormous eyesore covered in advertising in the early postcommunist era. However, eventually new life was breathed into the complex. Now, find shining glass frontages added to the department stores, and granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern tubular lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie end. Although once entirely dodgy, Pasaż Wiecha - the long space behind the ‘Eastern Wall’ - is today lined with shops and restaurant gardens on both sides, making it an interesting area to explore. It also boasts benches, hammocks, beach chairs and other elements of urban design, and increasingly plays host to events like food fairs. Ironically, the centrepiece of the city’s big 1960s redevelopment plan is now a focal point in the ‘Nowe Centrum Warszawy’ plan, under which this area has become more green and user-friendly for residents. It’s all part of a larger plan to support a lively pedestrian corridor through the city centre from here to ul. Nowy Świat (p.51) via ul. Chmielna.QF‑7/8, MCentrum.

10 Plac Pięciu Rogów & ul. Chmielna

This lovely public square opened in July 2022 at the intersection of Bracka, Krucza, Zgody, Szpitalna and Chmielna Streets - hence the name, ‘Five Corner Square.’ Although the new design still features a lot of concrete, 22 maple trees have been added to the space, as well as numerous benches with almost 40 sitting places. Most significantly, the entire area has been opened up and given over to pedestrians, which is a huge improvement over the urban tangle that previously prevailed here. Plac Pięciu Rog ów is basically the centrepiece of redevelopment works throughout this area which are transforming ul. Chmielna into a high street for pedestrians . A great area for exploration: you’ll plenty of cafes, restaurants, bars and intriguing places for relaxing and refuelling. Q G‑7/8, M Centrum, www.plac5rogow.pl .

11 Plac Konstytucji

A wonderful spectacle of socialist realist architecture, Constitution Square was constructed between 1950-52 to be an ‘expression of creative optimism and peaceful work within the socialist system.’ Its real purpose was to serve as a focal point for the frequent state parades, which would go from here down ul. Marszałkowska to Plac Defilad (Parade Square) in front of The Palace of Culture and Science.

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Quite an anomaly in the urban fabric of Warsaw, Constitution Square was the crowning glory of the Marszałkowska Housing District - the first housing district to be completed out of the complete devastation of WWII. It was quite an achievement and heralded as a big success at the time. Dominated by three monumental street lamps looking like giant tridents, you’ll still see some socialist mosaics here and there, but things get even better along the tail end of ul. Marszałkowska, leading to Plac Zbawiciela, where socialist reliefs of workers line the street. QG‑10, Pl. Konstytucji, MPolitechnika.

12 Plac Zbawiciela

In the aftermath of WWII, this star-shaped roundabout became dominated by PRL-era buildings from the 1950s, but still harbours a couple of gems. The first is the conspicuous Church of the Holiest Saviour, from which the square takes its name (Saviour Square). Built in neo-Renaissance style in the 1920s, that it stands is a marvel, considering it was dynamited by the Nazis during WWII and then tagged for demolition by the communists. The other pre-war building here is the handsome Jasieńczyk-Jabłoński tenement (Mokotowska 12), erected in 1910. Upon completion, it was not only one of the most modern, but also the tallest residential building in Warsaw (38 m). From 2012–2015, Julita Wójcik's "Rainbow" art installation notably soared

over Plac Zbawiciela. A 9m high 26m wide rainbow made of plastic flowers, the piece proved too controversial for PL's anti-LGBT factions, who repeatedly lit it on fire until it was removed. However, there are plans to bring it back!QG‑10, MPolitechnika.

13 Warsaw University of Technology

TThe historic main building of what's known locally as Politechnika Warszawska is an absolute wonder of neo-baroque architecture designed by Stefan Szyller at the turn of the 18/19th centuries. This stout, sturdy two-story building with its unique rounded corners survived WWII bombing and was quickly retouched after the war.

Its magnificent facade features an array of architectural embellishments they just don't teach the kids inside anymore: sculptures, bas-reliefs, frescoes and sgraffito, to name a few. If you think the exterior is impressive, finagle your way inside to see the pentagonal cloister courtyard with its four stories of arcades, phenomenal staircase and beautiful stainedglass roof - one of the most-photogenic places in Warsaw.

The university itself was established in 1826 and is today one of the largest technology universities in Central Europe, with over 36,000 students per year.. QF‑10, Plac Politechniki 1, MPolitechnika. Open 06:00 22:00.

14 Hala Koszyki

If you're wondering where all the students are, this might be the answer. This is one of Warsaw's handful of marvelous indoor market halls, with food, shopping, art and more! And this is definitely one to check out because it's photogenic, with a phenomenal groundfloor food hall, with everything form dim sum to gelato, burgers, fries and more!

There are plenty of boutique shops and a lot of great events held here. Plus, we can't say enough about the architecture. Built over 100 years ago in the Art Nouveau style, this stunning building originally served as a market hall. It was redeveloped in 2016 to pay homage to its original use (many of the original brick and latticework is still featured prominently here) but with a new, contemporary feel. This is urban revitalisation at its most impressive and photogenic. on p.99 QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00 01:00.

15 Highline Warsaw (in the VARSO Tower)

Right in the heart of Warsaw sits the highest tower in the EU (seriously!), this place should be your final stop after sightseeing all day. Varso tower consists of three buildings including the main building, which is the tallest in the EU and the 6th tallest in Europe at 310 meters. It was completed in 2022, and surpassed the Palace of Culture and Science as the tallest building in Poland.

To get the full experience, find Highline Warsaw, which allows for 360-degree views of the city thanks to their observation deck on the 53rd floor. Everything you just saw by foot, you can now see from the sky! The tour to the top starts with a speedy panoramic elevator (yet more views!) through an immersive corridor among the clouds. There’s an exhibition about Warsaw and an Experience Room with three films from different eras of the city’s history.

Before you go to the observation deck (or after), head over to the HighGarden Rooftop Lounge (p.102) on the 49th floor, a lush cocktail bar with a terrace and garden, tons of incredible cocktails and local snacks and, of course, those views of the sunset over Warsaw. Right next door is the HighGarden Event Bar, which is a great place for private events. Plus, there’s a boutique selling souveniers and local products on the 46th floor. All in all, a great experience for the end of your sightseeing adventures -- take in the highest building in the EU, and see everything you've seen from the ground, from the sky!QE‑8, Varso Tower, Chmielna 69, MRondo ONZ, www.highlinewarsaw.com. Open 10:00 22:00.

Sk y s c r a p e r s

& Viewpoints

Warsaw has plainly stated its ambition to have more skyscrapers than any other city in Europe. The city currently has 32 buildings over 100m high, with more approved for construction, and enough pending approval to potentially bring the total up to 65 in the coming years. Beloved by locals and symbolic of the city’s aspiration to be the most modern capital in Europe, here are some of the most notable towers in town.

Varso: This office complex is the tallest building in the EU at 310m (though the last 80m is a spire). At the top find the HighGarden Rooftop Lounge, with drinks and views of the city p.102 QE 8.

Palace of Culture & Science: Buy a ticket, then head up to the 30th floor of Warsaw’s oldest and second tallest skyscraper (237m) for amazing panoramic views from an actual open-air terrace More on p.27 QE 9.

Warsaw UNIT: Warsaw’s 5th tallest tower (202m) was completed in 2021. Included is the wild new adrenaline attraction Skyfall Warsaw - a vertigo-inducing glass box that dangles outside the building (available to companies and special events)QC 8.

Złota 44: Designed by Daniel Libeskind, this luxury residential tower is one of Wawa’s most beautiful and distinctive skyscrapers, and its 7th tallest (192m).QE 8.

InterContinental Hotel: At 165m, Warsaw’s InterContinental Hotel is one of the tallest 5-star hotels in the world, and features the highest swimming pool in Europe at 150m. Open to non-guests, go have a swim in the clouds.QE 8.

Centrum LIM/Warsaw Presidential Hotel: The Panorama Sky Bar on the 40th floor of this veteran skyscraper (completed 1989) offers a liquid view to the city. Although the drinks are among Wawa’s most expensive, this is one of the city’s most accessible views.QE 9.

Warsaw - THE HUB: Completed in 2020, this complex consists of two 130m buildings and an 86m building. For great views, head up to the bar on the 21st floor - The Roof (p.101).QC 8.

Atlas Tower: 119m tall and completed way back in 1999, the locals think this one looks like a porta-loo, but the 27th floor features one of the best luxury roof clubs in the world, Level 27. The building is also home to the Invisible Exhibition (p.74). QE 9.

The Old Town

Warsaw’s Old Town becomes a winter wonderland during the holiday season.

A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ when Warsaw was a pearl of European architecture, the Old Town was actually entirely rebuilt after WWII. Today it stands as a stunning testament of Varsovians’ great pride in their city, and its rise from the ruins. If you have only one day in Warsaw, you should spend part of it here.

In the devastating aftermath of the Warsaw Uprising (p.78), 85% of the city’s left bank lay in ruin, half of its population had perished, and the Old Town was a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau immediately started rebuilding the historic centre using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs. The first phase of reconstruction was completed in 1953, but works continued in the following decades, finally concluding with the opening of the Royal Castle (p.40) in 1984. Although what you see today is not strictly ‘original’ per say, its inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes of its authenticity and the effort required to recreate it.

WALKING TOUR

Our Old Town Walking Tour leads you around the oldest part of the city, showing you its most important and interesting points, beginning and ending near Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) - the traditional entrance to the district.

The prescribed route covers only about 1.5km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take less than 30mins, but ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple of short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks - we reckon it will take at most several hours to complete. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your phone/camera, comfy shoes and off you go.

1 Plac Zamkowy

Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square), the busy plaza where Warsaw’s medieval centre (to the north), meets the thoroughfare of its Royal Route (to the south), in the shadow of the Royal Castle. More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, with the steps of King Sigismund’s Column typically besieged by couples, schoolkids and skateboarders. A lot happens here, whether it’s political demonstrations, street performers, or the steady flow of locals and tourists out for a stroll.

As for the famous column, it honours the man who in 1596 moved the Polish capital from Krak ów to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa. 22 metres tall, it was erected in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived and was returned to his perch in 1949.

Also note that there is a tourist info office located here at Plac Zamkowy 1/13 (open 9:00-18:00, Sunday 10:00-18:00). so you'll be able to find all the information you need before you explore further.

QF‑4, MRatusz Arsenał.

Old

2 Royal Castle

The pride of Warsaw, this palace was reconstructed at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by communist-era cohorts such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money came via generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, presidents and the seat of Parliament. Some of the halls are purported to be haunted by a ‘white lady,’ whose ghostly appearance portends disaster. Those who plonk down for admission (60zł/45zł) will have plenty to see, including the Kings’ apartments and chambers, the Houses of Parliament and the opulent Great Assembly Hall. Additional tickets are required for the Gallery of Masterpieces and the apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski - aka the ‘Tin-Roofed Palace’ (open Wed, Sat, Sun only, 10:00-17:00; 20/15zł) Luckily for families, children under 7 get in for free, while those 7-16 years old have to pay 1zł! Visiting time: 2hrs.QG‑4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek krolewski.pl. Open 10:00 17:00; closed Mon. Admission 60/45zł. Kids & students with valid ID, 1zł for each exhibit; Wed free for all exhibits. U

Old Town Museums

When it was rebuilt, Warsaw implemented a vision of its Old Town as a place of culture. Today it harbours a remarkable number of museums!

Museum of Dollhouses Games and Toys: Over 150 detailed historical dollhouses, plus other minature settings, and old toys! The two permanent exhibits show handcrafted models, costumes and toys, while also demonstrating how tastes and fashions have changed over time. More on p.73 Qul. Podwale 15.

Museum World of Illusion: A nice reward for the kids, the exhibits will fool your eyes and meld your mind just a bit. Colors, lights and illusions! perfect for anyone who wants to learn the extent to which the mind can be easily tricked by the eye. More on p.80 QRynek Starego Miasta 21

Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre: This small branch of the Warsaw Museum focuses on the architectural history of the Old Town - its destruction during World War II, the rebuilding efforts thereafter, and circumstances of its eventual entry on the UNESCO World Heritage List. More p.43 Qul. Brzozowa 11/13.

3 Branicki & Szaniawski Palaces

The neighbouring Branicki and Szaniawski Palaces are two stunning noble residences from the last century of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. The Szaniawski Palace at ul. Miodowa 8, named after the first noble family residents, was built at the beginning of the 18th century, and was later the residence of the famed Ostrowski family. It was first reworked into its current classical style in 1812. Branicki Palace at number 6 came later in 1740, and aimed to capture the magic of French rococo architecture, in addition to having a horseshoeshaped layout with stunning façades and rooftop windows. When Count Jan Klemens Branicki died in 1771, the estate was inherited by his wife, Izabella Poniatowska, the sister of King Stanisław August Poniatowski and an influential figure of the Enlightenment era in Poland. The palace was a congregation point for many Enlightenmentera creatives of whom Izabella was a patron. Both palaces were destroyed in WWII and reconstructed using Renaissance-era paintings as a reference. These romantic buildings from ‘straight out of a painting’ were brought together in 2022, when the Marriott’s Autograph Collection opened their first Polish property here as the Hotel Verte. This exquisite 5-star accommodation option also features KUK Restaurant. (p.87).QF‑4, ul. Miodowa 6 8.

4 Jan Kiliński Monument

This huge monument honours Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence - an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg.

Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on Plac Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops

hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being relocated here in 1959. Kiliński’s comrade and superior Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages.QF‑4, ul. Podwale.

5 Old Town Defensive Ramparts

The first sections of Warsaw’s defensive walls date back to the late 13th century, and by the end of the 14th century they stretched 1,200 meters, enclosing an area of about 8.5ha, and included 8 towers and 4 city gates. The most famous of these now non-existent structures was the Kraków Gate on Plac Zamkowy, and the Marshall’s Tower. Already in the 15th century these defenses were deemed insufficient and a second, lower line of brick walls was built along today’s ul. Podwale at a distance of just 9-14m from the previous walls; a moat was dug in-between and the Barbican was built in 1548 as the final piece of the defenses. As Varsovians were already settling in numbers beyond the city walls, these fortifications quickly became obsolete and from the 17th century they were being demolished or incorporated into tenement buildings. Ironically it was the total destruction of the Old Town that allowed these walls to be rebuilt after WWII and today the space between the two historical brick ramparts forms a pedestrian promenade parallel to ul. Podwale known as ‘Międzymurzę.’ Apart from all the interesting history, there are some incredible modern experiences to be had here. QF‑4, Międzymurzę Jana Zachwatowicza.

6 The Little Insurgent Monument

The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, though by the early 1980s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show, and this small-butpoignant monument made its debut in 1983. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the sculpture commemorates the children who had to grow up fast, serving as messengers and frontline troops during the Uprising. With its oversized helmet and rifle, the bronze figure was inspired by the story of 13-year-old corporal Antek, himself killed in action near this spot on August 8, 1944. For history buffs, this is the spot to go, hands (or arms) down.QF‑4, ul. Podwale.

7 Warsaw Barbican

Crowning the set of the medieval defensive walls which once protected the northern entrance to the city, this rotund structure dates from 1548, built by architect Giovanni Battista Venetian on the site of an earlier gate. Despite its intended use, the Barbican was only ever used in one fighting action on June 30, 1656, during the Swedish deluge. In the 18th century, the Barbican was partially demolished with the remains being incorporated into new apartment buildings. It was during the interwar period that restoration work began to return the Barbican to its former glory, but alas, World War II put a hold to works, with it being completely destroyed. Along with the Old Town reconstruction, the fortified wall and Barbican were restored.QF‑3/4

Crossroads!

Continue along the Old Town defensive walls to the Barbican, and on to the Old Town Square?

Or, duck out of the medieval walls and down ul. Kilińskiego, hanging a left on ul. Długa for a short <20min/1.5km walk to the POLIN Museum (D-4, p.77) via the imposing Warsaw Uprising Monument and lovely Krasiński Palace and Gardens (E-4)?

8 Old Town Square

Measuring 90 by 73 metres, the Old Town Square is prewar Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated tenements - keep an eye out for the ‘House Under the Lion,’ with frescos by Zofia Stryjeńska (our Polish artistic crush - look up her work) at the southwest corner leading onto ul. Świetojańska. Today, the buildings around the Rynek host numerous cafes, restos, shops and museums. In the summer months, this is the place to sit outside with an aperol or a coffee and enjoy people watching. In the winter, this is the place to stroll and feed the pigeons while also admiring the mermaid statue in the middle of the square (not the main one. That's on p.39). The Museum of Warsaw occupies the entire northern side of the square, Museum World of Illusion (p.80) can be found at number 21, and number 27 is home to Warsaw’s oldest restaurant, U Fukiera (p.97).

Crossroads!

Stay on target with a stroll through the Barbican towards the Old Town Square?

Or take a detour down charming pedestrian thoroughfare ul. Freta, past the Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum, en route to the New Town Square (350m away)?

During the 15th century the square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today, it features Warsaw’s best-loved monument and the city’s defining symbol - Syrenka, aka the Warsaw Mermaid Cast in 1855, this busty vixen’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital. All around a great spot to spend some time and really bask in the European old town vibes.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta.

9 Museum of Warsaw

Inside 11 conjoined historical tenements on the Old Town Square, this revamped museum’s permanent exhibit, ‘The Things of Warsaw,’ presents the city’s cultural history via 7,000 objects displayed in 22 thematic rooms. Included are portraits, postcards, souvenirs, and other items with representations of the Polish capital.

Additionally, an exhibit Testimonies from the Warsaw Ghetto shines a light on the difficult history of the city's ghetto in the 1940s, told by people who experienced it. Finally, there’s a bookstore, cafe and fabulous viewpoint overlooking the Old Town Square. Well worth a visit! Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28 42, www.muzeumwarszawy. pl. Open 9:00 17:00; Thu 9:00 19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 35/25zł; permanent exhibit only 25/18zł; temp. exhibit only 20/15zł; Thu free. U­6

10 Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre

This focuses on the architectural history of the Old Town, and is the best introduction to the history of Warsaw's reconstruction. The permanent exhibition gives an in-depth look into Warsaw's Old town, before, during and after WWII, which decimated 90% of the neighborhood. Following the destruction of WWII, the Old Town was reconstructed in a pioneering way that combined modern techniques and conservation methods. The museum gives a clear reason for why the reconstruction of the Old Town led to its place on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Visiting time: 30-60mins.QF‑4, ul. Brzozowa 11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 34 02, www. ciz.muzeumwarszawy.pl/en/. Open Wed 9.00 17.00; Thu 9.00 18.00; Fri 9.00 17.00; Sat, Sun 11.00 17.00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission 15/10zł; Thu free. Free admission to permanent and temporary exhibitions is available to persons with disabilities (upon presentation of a disability card or certificate) and their accompanying carers. More information about accessibility: https://muzeumwarszawy.pl/lokalizacje/ centrum interpretacji zabytku/ U­6

Eat & Drink

Warsaw’s Old Town is full of restaurants and bars, but, as this is literally the most touristy part of the city, the quality varies. When it’s time to take a break, here are a few places that are worth the money and worth seeking out.

U Fukiera: Adhering to tradition with extravagant flair, this famous restaurant on the Old Town Square offers an exceptional dining experience.Qp.97.

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem: This veteran Polish restaurant is as traditional as it gets, with potato pancakes, pierogi, kotlet, and so, so much more. Make sure to stop here for the authentic stuff.Qp.92.

Ciao Napoli: Authentic Neapolitan pizza (the best in town?), fresh seafood and a lovely space make this affordable franchise deservedly popular. Plus, there's outdoor seating! Qp.90

U Barssa: This classy restaurant brings a refreshing refinement to the Market Square with traditional Polish cuisine. Try their signature ‘Duck a la Barssa’ Qp.93.

KUK Restaurant: Located in the decidedly regal 18th-century Branicki-Szaniawski complex, this restaurant blends the tradition of Polish food with contemporary flair.Qp.87

11 Gnojna Góra

Demonstrating how every word sounds exotic when you don’t know the language, Gnojna Góra may sound like another charming stop on your tour. And it is for the views over the Vistula River, but not for the name, which literally translates as Shit Hill (Dung Hill, if you wish to be more polite). For centuries, this was the dumping ground for all of the Old Town’s waste. As you can imagine, it grew over time and the distinctive shape can best be seen from the bottom. At one stage it was actually renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, it turns out). From here head back towards the centre via ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city, then swerve onto ul. Kanonia.QG‑4, ul. Brzozowa.

12 Ul. Kanonia

Once the site of the oldest cemetery in Warsaw, Kanonia Street takes the shape of a small square, at the centre of which is a cracked cathedral bell dating back to 1646. Cast by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column), the bell never actually rang at St. John’s Cathedral next to it, but it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell while walking its circumference and your wish will come true Across from the bell is one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Only 2m across, it was designed to evade property taxes, which in the 18th century (when it was built) were calculated

based on the width of the facade facing the main street. Also note the covered walkway nearby, which links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle and was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The attacker, who succeeded in striking the King twice with a pickaxe before being overpowered, was subsequently dealt with using the most medieval means imaginable: stretched by four horses, he was quartered with an axe; his body was then burned, and the ashes fired from a musket so as to disperse them in the air. This was all done in public, of course, at the city’s execution place, a few blocks away at the end of ul. Piekaska.QG‑4, ul. Kanonia.

13 St. John the Baptist Cathedral

Originally built in the 14th century, St John’s is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the May 3rd Constitution inside the building. The bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s 1st president) and various Mazovian knights can be seen in the crypt (open Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 15:00-17:00, closed during mass; admission 5/3zł). As with most major landmarks, it was left in a heap of ruins during the Warsaw Uprising, before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Borgward IV - a remote-controlled demolition vehicle used by the German army.QF/G‑4, ul. Świętojańska 8, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Open 06:00 20:00; Sun 08:00 22:00.

Choose Your Adventure!

Circling back to Plac Zamkowy you can either carry on down the Royal Route (turn the page), or circle round the back of the Royal Castle for a walk through the free gardens and down along the riverbank towards Powiśle (p.52).

The Royal Route

Krakowskie Przedmiejsce is lit up with festive lights during the holiday season.

Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle (p.40) on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Isle (p.58), en route to Wilanów Palace (p.60) in the district of the same name. Officially covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great many of Warsaw’s historical buildings, parks and monuments along the way, making a trip down at least part of the ‘path of the kings’ - be it on foot, by bike, or motorised scooter - a fine opportunity to see the heart and soul of the capital.

WALKING TOUR

In lieu of the full 11km traverse, this walking tour picks up at the end of the Old Town Walking Tour (p.38) on Plac Zamkowy and guides you gently down Warsaw’s two main high streets - ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście and ul. Nowy Świat  - to the ironic/ iconic Palm Tree fittingly at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie (Jerusalem Street). An easy 2km/20mins on foot, along the way or very nearby you’ll find many wonderful restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, so use the rest of our guide to plan your pit stops. Once you've exhausted these options, continue on the Royal Route to Łazienki and Wilanów (while resting your feet) should you choose to, or veer off to the center of the city and see the Palace of Culture or grab a good bite to eat.

1 King Sigismund's Column

We'll start at the iconic column in front of the Royal Castle, which effectively begins the transition between Old Town and Royal Route. Built in honour of the man who moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa - this 22m column was erected back in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby beside the Royal Castle and has become a kind of meeting point for friends, tourists and everyone in between! QF‑4, Pl. Zamkowy

2 St. Anne’s Church & Tower

St. Anne’s survived the war with a few scratches and a bombed-out roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished in 1949 when the careless construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel led to landslides and huge cracks in the floor of the church, which threatened to collapse; it took 400 people two weeks to stabilise the foundations. Interestingly, St. Anne’s also found disaster in the 17th century, when it survived the Swedish Deluge only to be the victim of arson two years later. The classical façade dates from 1788 and the interior holds even more classical and rococo details. The real reason to visit, however, are the splendid views from the tower - worth the 147-step climb (church open 7:00-19:00 weekdays; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-22:00. Tower hours below) 10/7zł. Call +48 22 374 94 84).QG‑4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 572 55 12 54, www.swanna.waw.pl. Tower open 10:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 21:00.

3 Adam Mickiewicz Monument

Patriot and poet Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855) is Poland’s greatest literary hero. Known as the ‘Father of Polish Romanticism,’ his epic poems and dramas served as inspiration for insurrections against the imperial powers that had partitioned Poland out of existence in the late 18th century. Born to an upper class Polish family in what is today Belarus, Mickiewicz attended university in Vilnius, where he began publishing his poems and became involved in political activities against imperial Russia, which now occupied the former territory of the PolishLithuanian Commonwealth. These activities saw him exiled to Russia in 1824, but Mickiewicz was able

to leverage connections he made in the salons of Moscow and St. Petersburg to escape to the west in 1830, eventually settling in Paris. A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea in 1855. His body today lies with those of the Polish kings in Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral. To learn more, visit the Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature on the Old Town Square (F-4).

This monument was first unveiled in 1898 on the 100th anniversary of Mickiewicz’s birth. Sculpted by Cyprian Godebski, the monument was destroyed by the Nazis, however, after WWII, Polish soldiers recovered Mickiewicz’s head and other demolished parts in Hamburg. Sculptor Jan Szczepkowski was able to produce a copy of the original sculpture, which was unveiled, along with its restored surroundings, in 1950.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21 23, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

4 ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście

Krakowskie Przedmieście is easily one of Poland’s most prestigious and well-known streets - the price tag of the rents matches the prestige! The street stretches from the Royal Castle in the Old Town (p.38) until it blends into ul. Nowy Świat. It is along the length of this street, and beyond, that you will easily find our list of things to see along the way - it’s almost impossible to get lost! As you walk along the route, be sure to stop at any of the 15 Chopin Benches. Designed by Professor Jerzy Porębski, they feature a button, when pressed, unleash a 30 second torrent of Chopin. Each bench contains descriptions in EN/PL to the site’s relevance to the composer. This is a delightful walk down one of the prettiest parts of the city. QG‑4, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

5 Presidential Palace

Guarded by lions and stern-looking soldiers, of all the landmarks that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It then passed into the hands of various aristocratic families, becoming famed for its banquets in the 18th century - the most extravagant of which marked the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million PLN was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests.

Poniatowski proved to be one of the nation’s most controversial monarchs - and also its last. Among his successes was the Constitution of May 3, 1791 Signed on these very grounds, it was the

2nd such document in the world, after the US Constitution. The large monument in front of the Palace is of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski A Polish general, he defended Warsaw during the Kościuszko Uprising and eventually died in the service of Napoleon.

After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, entertaining many a visiting Tsar before burning down in 1852. At the beginning of the 20th century an entire wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918, the Palace was commandeered to serve as home for the Prime Minister, and somehow it survived WWII. More momentous events came in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out.

QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

Crossroads!

Carry on down the Royal Route? Or perhaps hang a right after the Hotel Europejski down ul. Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza towards Plac Piłsudskiego (p.30)? Choose the latter to see Warsaw’s largest square and escape the urban hub-bub via the lovely Saxon Garden, a stroll through which leads you into the City Centre and on a path to Hala Gwardii (E-6) and Hala Mirowska (D-6) - two massive indoor markets 15-20mins on foot from where you’re standing.

6 Bristol & Europejski Hotels

Two of the biggest, most famous landmarks on prestigious ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście are former palaces turned luxury hotels today. The first is Hotel Bristol at number 42/44. First built in 1900, a brass plaque outside boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name a few. In 1993 it was restored to its pre-war glory and the re-opening ceremony was such a big deal, it was attended by Ms. Margaret Thatcher. Refreshed repeatedly since, it is certainly among the very top hotels in the capital, boasting an interior by world-renowned designer Anita Rosato that blends secessionist and art deco glamour with modern luxury. If you can’t afford to spend the night, you can still drop in to the wonderfully old school Cafe Bristol - a perfect place for coffee or breakfast.

Across the street is the revamped Raffles Hotel Europejski. The first hotel to reopen after WWII, it entered Varsovian folklore in 1967 when a group of young upstarts calling themselves ‘the Rolling Stones’ stayed here, under the watchful eye of the authorities, and had themselves quite a time tipping back vodkas in the hotel bar. In 2018 the hotel was refurbed for the Raffles brand and today it is a stunning luxury space full of contemporary art and custom furnishings. If you want to have your proverbial socks knocked off, explore the building’s many first-rate dining and drinking venues, Though you might not be able to afford anything, you can still wander through Europejski Boutiques - the most exclusive shopping experience in the country.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, 13, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

7 Chopin Benches

The good city of Warsaw has devised one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and that’s by way of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at key sites connected with his life since 2019. Made of cast iron and polished black granite, these benches feature a button which, when pressed, unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also come equipped with a route map as well as brief explanations in Polish and English as to the site’s relevance to Chopin. Each one comes inscribed with a QR code – scan it and download the Chopin App to access audioguides, Chopin melodies, facts, figures and photographs. This is, at the very least, a fun little trick to show your friends as you sit down for a much-needed rest while exploring the Old Town and Royal Route!QG‑6, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, www.biuro.chopin2010.pl

Exclusively at the Museum of Warsaw!

Warsaw Will Not Forget

A unique documentary film presenting the beauty of pre-war Warsaw, the scale of the city’s destruction, and the challenges of its reconstruction.

Museum of Warsaw

42 Old Town Market Square www.muzeumwarszawy.pl/en

Eat & Drink

Cucina Mia (Sheraton Grand Warsaw): Elegant, traditional Italian dishes bursting with flavor from earthy truffles to Amalfi lemons and fresh Sicilian fish. Qp.91

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi: Immense portions of traditional Polish fare and charming service. What's not to like?.Qp.92.

Bar and Books Podwale: This classy, colonial bar is the height of sophistication. Dimly lit, classic cocktails.Qul. Wąski Dunaj 20

Kufle i Kapsle: A delightful, modern interior with some killer craft beers, and great conversation. A good spot to join with friends on a weekend (or weekday!) night.Qp.103.

8 The University of Warsaw

Carry on further and you’re in Warsaw Universityland, the main campus of which lies beyond the grand gateway of number 26/28. Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw Uni was established here in 1816. The university had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the uni continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 48,000 students on the roll call, the university stands out as the largest and

arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning travel writer Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and the poet Julian Tuwim. Q G‑6, Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28, M Nowy Świat Uniwersytet, www.en.uw.edu.pl

9 Holy Cross Church

No self-respecting Chopin fan (is that you?) can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Smuggled out of Paris in a jar of booze by his sister (true story), Chopin’s heart was brought to the church in accordance with his final wishes in 1882 and is sealed in an urn behind a tablet bearing his likeness, specially carved by Leonardo Marconi.

Although Chopin’s ticker serves as the church’s key draw there are several other notable features and funereal remains to tempt you inside this astonishing Baroque creation. These include another urn with the remains of Nobel Prize-winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski. The organ, built in Salzburg in 1925, is also the largest in Warsaw.

Throughout a history that dates back to the 15th century, Holy Cross Church has played a role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul. Masses start at 6:00 a.m. and run daily at designated times. Parish hours are below.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. Open 10:00 11:30; 13:00 16:00; Sun 14:00 16:00.

10 Nicolaus Copernicus Monument

The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, Copernicus made his observations alone, a century before the invention of the telescope. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. Though obvious today, this was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although those who propagated his ideas were burned at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no

turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy.

The statue itself was unveiled in 1830 and has seen its share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a new plaque here insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp! - a German. A boy scout named Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the monument, then dynamited a few others for good measure. The statue was recovered after the war, and Dawidowski entered Polish folklore for his bravery. QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

11 ul. Nowy Świat

The name of this street means “New World” and it is an apt description; just south of ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, Nowy Świat has a similar look to the Old Town but instead of museums and history, you’ll find food, beer, live music and a street constantly bursting at the seams with life. Like much of the Old Town, Nowy Swiat was also razed during WWII, but was rebuilt almost immediately following in a neo-classical style, rather than its pre-war Art Nouveau style. Legend (and history) goes that this street was rebuilt based partly on paintings of its pre-war ancestor. Make sure to stop by Karmello for some chocolate nosh and coffee, or A.Blikle for great pastries. If it’s nightlife you’re after, there’s plenty of bars: Dom Whisky Cocktail Bar (open until 4 a.m. all week) will serve all the bright colored drinks you want; across the street, Kufle i Kapsle has a craft beer menu that will make even the snobbiest beer snob happy. We could go on, but there is a lot in the way of eating and drinking and fun. Finish your journey by taking in the towering palm tree 12 at the intersection between Nowy Świat and Al. Jerozolimskie, an art installation that’s a beloved little touch of the tropics in the middle of town. QH‑8.

Powiśle: Warsaw’s Riverside District

Once a mundane area of apartment blocks and industrial decay, over the past two decades Powiśle has transformed into one of Warsaw’s most intriguing and eclectic areas to explore.

Considering its plum location along the riverside, it’s hard to believe that this large neighbourhood was essentially a cultural dead zone until skyrocketing rent costs in the centre forced Warsaw to reconsider its potential. Now, Powiśle has become a hotspot for everything cool, young and happening in Warsaw, so much so that the city decided to recently open a gorgeous pedestrian bridge tying the Praga (p.62) area east of the river to Powiśle (you can access it via Ul. Karowa in Powiśle or Ul. Okrzei in Praga.) The history of Powiśle's growth is interesting: Warsaw University was the first to pitch a tent in the area, creating a draw since 2002, and the adjacent opening of the Copernicus Science Centre (p.54) in 2009 invited further cultural investments. Then the Metro (2015) helped make it into a popular place for public recreation. The redevelopment of the former Elektrownia Powiśle (p.53) power plant into a space for events, dining and shopping (2020) typifies the high-powered investment taking place here today. Still, Powiśle maintains an authentic local vibe thanks to its balance of both trendsetting gastro spots and boho dives (like the iconic rotund Warszawa Powiśle bar I-7). Roll yourself downhill towards the river from Warsaw’s Old Town or City Centre to discover what’s good in this hood!

What to See

1 Powiśle Mermaid Statue

Warsaw’s ‘Syrenka’ - the iconic freshwater warrior mermaid - has been representing the Polish capital since time immemorial. The monument here is the second-most famous statue of the city’s symbol (the first being on the Old Town Square, (p.42), though this one actually overlooks the river the mythical icon is alleged to have dwelled in.

At 2.75 metres tall, the the bronze monument was created by sculptor Ludwika Nitschowa and unveiled in June 1939, just months before the outbreak of WWII; remarkably it stood unscathed in this exact spot throughout the entire war while the rest of Warsaw's left bank was devastated.r. Q I‑6, Bulwar Bohdana Grzymały Siedleckiego (near Most Świętokrzyski), M Centrum Nauki Kopernik.

2 Vistula River Boulevards

Warsaw has modernised and improved its left bank dramatically in the last decade. The Powiśle boulevards flanking the Świętokrzyski Bridge and leading north to the Old Town have seen the most development and are now a popular

thoroughfare for walking, running, cycling and skating, as well as bars, cafes and restaurants - particularly in the warmer months - plus parks and leisure spaces.

Even if it's not the depth of summer, this is the perfect place to wander and lounge. The stalls that normally line the banks (selling food and drinks) aren't here during winter, but the views are still top-notch, with great photo ops up and down the river (and plenty of places to jump off and grab a bite). You can also use this boulevard to move easily up the city from the centre to the Old Town -- and cross over into Praga by way of the new pedestrian and cycling footbridge (p.55). While you'll need to bundle up for this walk because it gets chilly in the winter, this is a perfect spot for photos and the epitome of the kind of pedestrian space that Warsaw is increasingly becoming famous for. Head back in the warmer months for great lounging opportunities.

QI‑6, Generała George’a Smitha Pattona, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.

3 Elektrownia Powiśle

Once one of the largest electrical power plants in Europe, Elektrownia Powiśle powered the Polish capital from 1904 to 2001 before it was closed and left to crumble. Purchased by a developer in 2016, the historic industrial site was transformed into a multifunctional, mixed-use urban centre. Covering a massive 50,000m2, much of the site has been converted into offices, apartments and a hotel, but a remaining 15,000m2 in the former boiler and engine buildings comprises commercial space for retail, gastronomy and wellness.

Reopened in 2020, today Elektrownia offers four levels of shopping, and is a culinary hotspot with 41 restaurants bars and cafes across the complex (see their Food Hall on p.98). Additionally, there is

Eat & Drink

When it’s time for a rest or a feed, there are many worthy venues on and around ul. Solec - one of the main streets in the area, as well as numerous food trucks and barges moored up along the river. Also, Elektrownia Powiśle has an entire food hall inside, so your options are manifold. Here are a few other notable venues in the neighbourhood:

Food Hall Elektrownia Powiśle: Food from around the world! Find something for everyone at the stalls that offer Thai, Italian, American, Mexican and more types of cuisineQp.98.

Champs Sports Bar: The perfect place to watch the game, with a great beer offer and some tasty pub snacksQI-6, ul. Wybrzeze Kosciuszkowskie 43A.

Rozbrat 20: This Michelin-starred restaurant is the ideal date night spot with fresh flavors delivered in expert fashion, and tastes from Poland, France and England. This is food done very well, and meant to impress.Qp.97.

a 1500m2 Beauty Hall offering over 350 cosmetic treatments from 7 beauty concepts. Events are frequently hosted in the courtyards between the buildings, including a regular farmer’s market, yoga lessons and film screenings. There are plenty of reasons to check out one of Warsaw’s most exciting urban renewal projects in every season, but we particularly like the abilitiy to transition easily between indoor and outdoor activities here. QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 11:00 21:00. Food Hall open 12:00 23:00, Fri 12:00 24:00, Sat 11:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 23:00. T­U­6­K

4 Copernicus Science Centre

An example of EU funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe , and one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions. The fun starts as soon as you encounter the museum’s very own ‘Robothespian’ - an interactive humanoid robot - at the front doors, before exploring several hundred hands-on exhibits across two floors that will have you actively pressing buttons, answering quizzes, and even exerting yourself physically.

In addition to temporary exhibits and the all-ages ‘Experiment Zone,’ there are zones specially designed for the youngest visitors up to teens and

adults. It’s easy to declare that the CSC is wellworth a few hours of your time and will impress you with its design and range of experiments. Factor in the main floor cafeteria, cafe, and the packed Science Store (potentially the best spot for children’s gifts in Warsaw), and it’s a one-stop day of fun.

Visiting time: 3-4hrs.Q I‑6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, M Centrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl. Centre Open 09:00 18:00; Fri 09:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 19:00. Closed 1st Mon of every month. Roof Garden: Closed Nov April. www.kopernik.org.pl/ en/planetarium . Admission 48/34zł; holidays & weekends 50/36zł; planetarium 34/24zł. U

5 Planetarium of the Copernicus Science Centre

A trip to outer space is made simple at the Planetarium of the Copernicus Science Centre , which is tucked behind the giant Copernicus Science Centre ) as its own distinct venue. Visitors can choose different 40-minute films (which require headsets for English and Russian) that are geared towards different age ranges and interests. Inside, the audience is immersed in the solar system thanks to a spherical screen that surrounds the 139 seats on all sides.

Four digital projectors display images of the starry sky (we’re talking 20 million points of light) and simulate space travel to bring planets and moons into view - the whole experience is visually stunning! Before each film, there is a 20min live show about the skies over Warsaw that change with the seasons.

School groups dominate the Planetarium’s seats during daytime hours, therefore, we can’t stress enough that booking in advance is highly recommended. You can enjoy the permanent exhibition “ Look: there’s the Earth! ” A not-tobe-missed attraction (2D movies cost 34/24zł).

A visit to the planetarium is a sensory experience, one which he wholly recommend you try out. Trust us, you won’t regret it. Science geek, over and out. Q H‑5, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, M Centrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.planetarium. kopernik.org.pl . Open 09:00 18:30; Thu 9:00 20:00; Fri 10:00 20:00; Sat 10.00 20.00; Sun 10:00 19:30; Mon 09:00 15:30. Closed the 1st Monday of every month. Admission 34/24zł. Special screenings 49zł. U

6 Kładka na Wiśle (Footbridge)

This long-awaited pedestrian footbridge opened in late March, connecting Praga on the east side of the river with Powiśle on the west. You can access it near Karowa Street in Powiśle (around Mariensztat below). The gorgeous bridge is the longest pedestrian bridge in Poland, and it's is meant for walkers and cyclers alike. In the warmer months, you'll likely find plenty of people meandering, some live music, some people selling ice cream and cotton candy. In the chillier months, make sure to bundle warmly as you cross the 502-metre structure, and enjoy some design features like viewing platforms and rest areas. The Polish name, Kładka na Wiśle, means "Footbridge on the Vistula River". If you want to connect from the Old Town to Centrum Praskie Koneser (p.63) this bridge is the way!QH‑5, Karowa 6.

7 Mariensztat

Cut off from the rest of the Old Town, the northernmost part of Powiśle has its origins in the 18th century when a nobleman received the land as part of a dowry. The area was built in 1762 and named after his wife, with the latter part of the name 'stadt' (changed to 'sztat' after World War II) being added to appease the Saxon king of Poland at the time, King Augustus III. Completely destroyed during the Warsaw Uprising, it was rebuilt after the war using a totally different street plan; the architectural design aimed to evoke a look mixed between 18th century buildings in the Praga district while also incorporating a socialist realist element. the picturesque neighbourhood is full of small parks and winding streets and provides a leafy retreat from the crowds just a short distance away from the heart of the Old Town. In previous centuries, Mariensztat was notorious for its bordellos and bare-knuckle boxing matches, and its main square was once the home of a bustling market - a role today commemorated by a statue of a woman with a chicken and basket of goods, found on ul. Sowa 4. Today, though it looks a little sleepy, Mariensztat ranks as one of Warsaw's most engaging district.QG‑4/5, ul. Mariensztat.

Choose Your Adventure!

From Powiśle it’s exceedingly easy to get to Praga (p.62) or the City Centre (p.28) through a lovely (albeit a little long) walk along the river toward the south. Alternatively, head north along the river to return to the Old Town (p.38) or check out New Town’s Multimedia Fountain (F-3), which is a popular attraction for young families; both are about 2km/20mins on foot.

Łazienki Park

KACZYŃSKIEGO

This glorious 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of Warsaw’s unparalleled highlights, adored year-round by locals and visitors alike. Although it seems as if half of Warsaw spends its fall Sundays here, the park is so vast that it never feels crowded and offers an enchanting opportunity to escape the capital’s modern-day gloom and get lost in its nostalgic past. Don’t mistake Łazienki for a simple city park; it is also a museum complex full of wonderful art and architecture. Don’t miss it.

The full/proper name of today’s park is ‘Łazienki Królewskie,’ which means ‘Royal Baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece, the Palace on the Isle

The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the nearby Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence.

It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden. Perfect for romantic strolls, family picnics and cultural outings, today the park is packed with gorgeous sculptures and monuments, palatial architecture and priceless art, lovely landscapes of bridges and ponds, plus cafes, restaurants and more. The whole park is a must when visiting the city -- don't miss it!

Tickets & Info

While the park is free, the indoor exhibits require a ticket

Ticket 1: Includes just sites: the Palace on the Isle, the Old Orangery, Myslewski Palace, White Pavilion, Water Tower, Stables, Barracks, and Podchorążówka: 60/30zł.

Ticket 2: Includes just the Cantonal Barracks and the Kubicki Stables, 30/15zł

Ticket 3: All places listed above, plus temporary exhibit, "The Marvels of the Royal Łazienki": 80/40zł.

For all exhibits, kids under 7 & students under 26 1zł for all three tickets. Buy tickets from cash desks or machines at the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship.Q H‑12, M Politechnika, tel. (+48) 22 50 60 024, www.lazienki krolewskie.pl. Park open daily 06:00 22:00. Indoor exhibitions open from October through April, Tues Wed 9:00 16:00; Thu Sat 10:00 18:00; Sun 10:00 16:00. Closed Mon and holidays.

Belvedere Palace

The Belvedere Palace was the residence of Polish presidents from 1918 to 1995 and then again during the presidency of Bronisław Komorowski from 2010-2015 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski, Lech Kaczyński and current president Andrzej Duda opted to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście) Built in 1694 and thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is essentially offlimits to visitors, but an eyeful to behold. A wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns, the best views and photo ops are fetched from outside the park on Al. Ujazdowskie.QH‑12, ul. Belwederska 56.

Chopin Monument

Don’t miss this famous art nouveau sculpture of Warsaw’s favourite son, Fryderyk Chopin. Depicting the composer right here in Łazienki beneath a willow tree, the work by Wacław Szymankowski was erected in 1926. As part of the Nazi campaign against Polish culture it was dynamited by the Germans on May 31, 1940; as the story goes, the following day an unknown patriot placed a placard on the wreckage declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader.’ An original plaster-cast allowed the statue to be revived and this reconstruction was unveiled in 1958. QH‑12.

Łazienki’s

Getting There

Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on ‘Al. Ujazdowskie’, including numbers 116 (from Old Town/Nowy Świat) and 180 (from Al. Jerozolimskie, bus stop ‘PKP Powiązki’); get off at the ‘Łazienki Królewskie’ bus stop. Accurate times and routes can be checked online at warsaw.jakdojade.pl

Old Orangery

A good place to start a visit to Łazienki, the Old Orangery is one of two ticket offices and tourist info points in the park. Originally erected in 1785-88 to house exotic trees through the once-harsh Polish winter, the sunny structure also harbours King Stanisław August’s Royal Theatre - one of the few surviving 18th century court theatres in Europe. Constructed out of wood and covered in marblised polychromes, the ground floor is rather modest with simple benches on risers, while the upper level features nine boxes with eight female figures gripping candleholders in between. Interestingly, the space above the boxes has been painted to create the illusion of yet another level, complete with an 18th-century court audience. The theatre is still used today to host chamber concerts. The other important aspect of the Old Orangery is the Royal Sculpture Gallery. Stanisław August collected hundreds of marble and plaster copies of the most famous sculptures from antiquity. Now, 120 of the most important of these casts are uniquely displayed inside the Orangery. Visiting time: 30mins.QI‑11.

Palace on the Isle

The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre and therefore, a true must-visit when you're going to the park. Built as a Baroque bathhouse in 1683, the structure was converted into a Neoclassical residential palace in the late 1700s by King Stanisław August. Located on an island in the middle of a narrow lake, and connected by colonnaded bridges on each side, the façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors. Today, almost all of the palace can be visited, including the King’s private rooms. The main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, is decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. In 1793, King August converted the palace into the first modern public museum, displaying the most important paintings from his collection. Visiting time: 45-60mins.QI‑11.

Myślewicki Palace

Built in the 1770s and 80s, this elegant semi-circular palace was originally conceived as King Stanisław August's primary residence, though it gradually shifted to more diplomatic functions, hosting official state soirees and accommodating foreign ministers. Designed in Early Classicist style, the unique recessed entrance is decorated with mythological sculptures. After a thorough renovation, the building again appears very much as it would have in the late 18th century, and a walk through the interiors - replete with original murals, furniture and art - is worth the short amount of time it takes to see them. Visiting time: 30mins.QJ‑11.

Botanical Garden

Part of the University of Warsaw, these separate gardens at Łazienki have several greenhouses stuffed with exotic, weird and wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings in the crowds are the stunning rose gardens just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour when in full bloom, the gardens are the preferred subject matter of art students, who set up their easels early and paint until the guards kick them out at sunset. Open from March onwards.QH‑11, Al. Ujazdowskie 4, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod.uw.edu.pl. From March to April open 10:00-18:00. Greenhouses open from Tuesday to Sunday. Admission 20/10zł (park and greenhouses), kids under 7 free.

Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship

Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to avid hunters and horse lovers, though the latter may have some trouble with all the mounted trophies. If the trophies are too much, you can skip the former Cantonists’ Barracks - built in 1826–1828 and full of hunting arms and taxidermied animals - and head straight to the Kubicki Stables, built 1825–1826 and home to an exhibit of horse-drawn carriages, saddles, harnesses and riding accessories. Visiting time: 1hrQJ‑12, ul. Szwoleżerów 9. Admission 30/15zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 1zł. Fri free.

Eat & Drink

Łazienki has several cafes and restaurants, though most of them are very pricey. Head out of the main gates to Plac Unii Lubelskiej (H-12) for more casual options.

Belvedere: Located in the park’s New Orangery, this is one of Warsaw’s most prestigious restaurants and worth the money, but not for families after a day in the park.Q(p.94).

Być Może: This hip cafe/bistro bakes its own bread, offers all-day breakfast and daily lunch specials, and is perfect whether you’re craving coffee or wine. QH 12, ul. Bagatela 14.

DZiK (Dom Zabawy i Kultury): This old residence offers European cuisine and hosts a wide range of evening events, getting wild on weekends.QI‑13, ul. Belwederska 44 A.

Viet's Baguette: This deli offers 21 varieties of banh mi, known as a 'Vietnamese hoagie.' A great place to stop in before you head to the park.QG/H 12, ul. Puławska 7/9.

Rest. Baczewskich: Delightful, highly rated food with an incredible atmosphere, their own smokehouse, and a wide range of liquers. QH 11, ul. Jazdów 1b.

Wilanów

In the winter, the Wilanów Palace gets the light show treatment, making for a colorful, snow-covered scene.

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century 45ha palace and garden complex 10km south of the centre.

Essential visiting for anyone wishing to understand the former grandeur of the Polish capital, Wilanów is more than just a palace. As one of the few existing remnants of the era when Poland was a vast kingdom stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea, today it also represents the European splendour and sophistication that was lost and few today associate with Warsaw. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings also represent the height of Polish Baroque and are collectively one of Poland’s greatest cultural treasures. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend most of a day relaxing and taking in the sites here.

Getting There

10km south of the centre, Wilanów is best reached by bus or taxi, though the latter costs 35-40zł and essentially takes the same amount of time: 25-35mins. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop. From Plac Zamkowy (F-4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) or Łazienki Park (H-11) take buses 116 or 180. From Warszawa Centralna train station (E-8) take bus 519. For exact times and routes, check warsaw.jakdojade.pl

What to See

Wilanów Park & Gardens

The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park developed over the centuries. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s. Comprising a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscape park and the so-called English-Chinese landscape park, recent revitalisation works and archaeological digs discovered several arctefats, including ceramics dating from the 12th century. The park opens daily from 9:00-16:00 until March 2. From March 3-15, 9:00-18:00. From March 16-29, 9:00-19:00.QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow palac.pl. Park Admission 15/5zł, Thu free (0zł ticket is still required).

Wilanów Palace Museum

The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. The first is the upstairs Polish Portrait Gallery - comprising room after room of portraits of the rich and the

powerful from the 16-19th century. Next you’ll find yourself downstairs in the Wilanów Palace Residence, featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. Most impressive are the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. This place is popular for photoshoots so make sure to dress your best for some truly beautiful (and royal) wintery photos in front of the palace. Visit the Wilanów Palace website for info about temporary exhibits and tickets. A ticket also gets you into the park. Visiting time: 2hrs.QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow palac.pl Open 10:00–16:00. Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission (includes park admission) 60/30zł, kids 7 16 1zł, kids under 7 free; Thu free. U

Potocki Mausoleum

An extraordinary piece of funerary art, befitting two of Poland’s most powerful, wealthy and influential families, this tomb in Wilanów Park was dedicated to Stanisław Kostka Potocki and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi and built between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and Konstanty Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone. Consisting of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each corner, on the sarcophagus itself are the figures of the deceased, and around the sides symbols of their virtues and interests are displayed.QO‑2, Wilanów Park.

St. Anne’s Church

A church has stood on this site since the 14th century, when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here, followed by a wooden Gothic version in the 16th century that stood throughout Sobieski’s day. In 1772 the new brick Church of St. Anne was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski based on a design by Jan Kotelnicki. From 1857-1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extended the church based on a NeoRenaissance design by Henri Marconi, including adding the marvellous dome. In the surrounding gardens you will find terracotta shrines marking the Stations of the Cross, while the crypt houses the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suffered damage during both world wars and was used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who looted and damaged it. The bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them; today they are housed in the newly built Third Millennium Tower.QO‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 18, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www. parafiawilanow.pl. Open 08:00 17:00; Sun 14:00 18:00.

Wilanów Lake & Island

There’s also a natural lake found behind the Palace. Not only is the lake is open, but during the warmer months, you can actually rent a boat to take out on the water (so save this guide for the spring)! Apart from the beautiful scenery, a trip here will reward you with a glimpse of Enrico Marconi’s strange, Gothicinspired pump room, and an adventure to the island at the centre of the lake reveals a monument to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski, who served in the army of the Duchy of Warsaw and gave his life at Wilanów fighting the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809.QP‑3, ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16. Hours same as gardens.

Praga: Warsaw’s Alternative District

TARGOWA

WYB.SZCZECIŃSKIE

‘Gritty’ and ‘boho’ are just two of the terms tossed around to describe Praga, Warsaw’s east riverside district

Once disregarded due to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, today an urban revival makes Praga worth visiting – especially for those looking to get off the tourist trail and see more of the city’s artsy side. The current standard-bearer for cool, folks here prefer their fun improvised and their bars dark. Filled with murals and hip hangouts, you can easily spend a day checking out the vibes of this alternative district across from the Old Town.

Getting to Praga

The easiest way to get to Praga is to take the M2 Metro to ‘Dworzec Wileński’ (eastbound to ‘Trocka’), and you’ll be in the heart of the district. From Warszawa Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the river to the ‘Park Praski’ stop. If you’re in the Old Town simply walk down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarności and the ‘Stare Miasto’ stop, taking trams 4, 13, 20, 23 and 26 to ‘Park Praski.’

1 Praga Museum of Warsaw

Located in the oldest surviving residential buildings on Warsaw’s right bank, this modern museum boasts interactive exhibits that tell the story of Praga: its people, history, industry, bazaars and more. The cellars include the Residents’ Stories Archive and two pre-war Jewish prayer rooms with original wall paintings, and there’s even an observation terrace. This is not one of the most well-known museums in Warsaw, but is certainly one of the most interesting. Well worth a visit. Visiting time: 1.5-2hrs.QJ‑3, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, www.muzeumpragi.pl. Open 09:00 17:00; Thu 11:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, permanent exhibit only 15/10zł, temporary exhibits 10/8zł; Thu free. U

2 ul. Ząbkowska

Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated and its artistic vibe more felt than on Ząbkowska. Originally lined with timber frame houses, a fire in 1868 led to their replacement with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street so hard that wholesale demolition was seriously considered, but somehow it endured and today many of the buildings have been restored and filled with lively galleries and bars. You’ll know you’ve arrived at Praga’s high street when you discover the explosion of murals and street art near ul. Targowa. Plus, a great thrifting hub -- see the next page for more!QJ‑3, ul. Ząbkowska, MDworzec Wileński.

Eat & Drink

Locals will tell you that the best part of Praga isn’t the sightseeing, but the nightlife. The area’s main attraction is a vodka museum after all. You’ll find plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars in and around Centrum Praskie Koneser, along ul. Ząbkowska and ul. Okrzei. Here are some of the best hangouts in Praga:

3/4 Koneser Bar: Head straight to this bar hidden on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum to try their delicious alcohol infusions and cocktails, and enjoy beautiful views.Qp.102

Setki Powodów: There are 100 reasons why you should swing by, but one of the main ones is its tantalising food menu (international cuisine) and a kicking live music roster!Qp.93

Yes! Butcher Shop & Bistro: This is meat done very well. Find cuts of all your favorites (ribeye, tomahawk and more) sourced from countries known for their beef. Also the option to dine in or take away. Qp.87.

3 Museum of Printing

This refurbished branch of the Museum of Warsaw boasts a collection of historical printing presses, fonts, bookbinding tools, and other paraphernalia for publishing books and pamphlets of all kinds. Keep an eye out for temporary exhibitions which put printing in its historical context - past exhibitions zoned in on invitations, picture book illustrations, and communist-era underground publishers.

Average visiting time: 30mins.QJ‑3, ul. Ząbkowska 23/25, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 620 60 42, www.muzeumdrukarstwa.muzeumwarszawy.pl/en/ Open 9:00–17:00; closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł. Thu free.

4 Centrum Praskie Koneser

Once the Koneser Vodka Factory (1897-2007), this large industrial site lay mostly derelict before getting a major revamp in recent years and becoming Centrum Praskie Koneser. Interesting from an architecture and urban renewal standpoint, the complex includes the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art, art galleries and dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars and shops! In the summer, this is the place to spend a day wandering outside, checking out the gorgeous architecture. QK‑2, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu T­U­E­6­­­­

Thrifting Culture

Praga is known for many things but locals know that one of its best attributes is its thrifting culture. The neighborhood is a hotbed of thrift stores, charity shops, and second-hand stores. Here’s our suggested starting route. Get off at the Kijowska tram stop, begin on the south end of Ul. Targowa and work your way north!

Jeila Ciucholand:  With two stories and tons of men’s and women’s clothing, this is the perfect starting point. Find staple shirts, skirts, etc for around 10-20 Zł. Plus, some cool home items upstairs!QK-4, ul. Targowa 20B.

Z 2 Ręki:  Though this mostly has women's clothes it's well worth it: items are chic, modern and totally discredit the stereotype of thrifted clothing as "frumpy." Plus, thrift store prices make this spot a mustQJ-4, Targowa 59.

Kopalnia: There’s more to visit on Targowa, but let’s jump off for a bit and go to Kopalnia - this store is clothing, but also furniture, books, art, ceramics and so much more. It’s a little more expensive but so well-curated and the items are so nice that a visit is a must (say hi to the owner’s pet turtle while you’re there!).QK-2, ul. Białostocka 9.

5 Polish Vodka Museum

Set inside a former vodka factory, this multimedia museum is visited with a live tour guide or audio guide. The experience takes you from the origins of vodka to modern production, showing you plenty of paraphernalia and treating you to a tasting of this strong spirit. This is a must for anyone interested in the history of Poland's national drink (and for anyone who wants to try a sip). Entries are timed so book in advance. Visiting time: 1.5hrs.QK‑2, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl. Open 12:00 20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 21:00; closed Mon. 70zł. 6

6 Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska

One of the most desirable districts of Warsaw; with property prices staunchly high, the neighbourhood is home to the nouveau riche, the intelligentsia and much of the capital’s art community. Now in the shadow of the National Stadium, the sporting complex plays a major role in bringing visitors to the focal point of the area: ul. Francuska, which hosts trendy bars, cafes, restaurants and mix of boutique

and old-school shops - Saska Kępa is as close as Warsaw gets to the ‘Little Village’ areas of London or Paris or Greenwich Village in NYC. As such, it’s a great place to wander around, people watch, take in cafe culture on Francuska, or marvel at the architecture, including majestic 19th century manor houses, superb examples of 1920s and ‘30s modernism, and more. QL‑6/7/8, ul. Francuska, MDworzec Wileński.

7 Agnieszka Osiecka Monument

Agnieszka Osiecka (1936 - 1997) was a Polish poet and journalist, and the author of over 2,000 songs, many of which were turned into pop hits. She’s also known for a particularly grisly connection to the Swinging Sixties; her first marriage ended in tragedy when her husband, Wojciech Frykowski, became one of those slain by Charles Manson’s family of weirdos in what would turn out to be one of the crimes of the century. The statue is located in Praga Południe aka Saska Kępa, and you’ll often find people lying gifts, flowers and candles at her monument.QL‑7, ul. Francuska (corner of ul. Obrońców).

8 Skaryszewski Park

Skaryszewski Park is one of the most beautiful in Warsaw - you’ll find a pleasant 55 hectare site filled with wide alleys originally designed for horsedrawn carriages, man-made hills, waterfalls, lakes and landscaped flowerbeds. Within its manicured grounds are several points of interest, including a monument commemorating Allied pilots who flew missions to supply insurgents fighting in the Warsaw Uprising. The memorial is located at the exact site where B24 bomber was shot down in 1944, killing all but one of the seven crew on board. In the winter months, stroll with a coffee or hot chocolate in hand and watch the birds at the pond.QL‑5/6, Al. Zieleniecka, MStadion Narodowy.

9 PGE National Stadium

Opened January, 2012, PGE Narodowy can hold 58,000 fans. The construction was built using hundreds of 45m pillars driven into the ground to stabilise the 25m of war rubble the stadium sits atop Priced at 1.2 billion PLN, history buffs will note the Socialist era ‘Relay’ statue at the entrance has been preserved in a nod to the site’s heritage – it was here that Stadion Dziesięciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium) stood, built in the 1950s to mark the anniversary of the end of WWII. Today, this is an exceptional place to watch football or mega-concerts. Most tours range 37-43zł Q K‑6, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, M Stadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 295 95 95, rezerwacje@pgenarodowy.pl, www.pgenarodowy.pl

Essential Day Trips

Done up in lights for Christmastime, Kraków is a twinkly, cozy delight.

Warsaw is jam-packed with things to do (see, well, all the previous pages in this guide). But sometimes you want a change of scenery. One amazing thing about Warsaw is its access to other areas — being the capital, it’s a kind of hub for travel to major Polish cities and towns. So when you have a day to spare, head on over to Warszawa Centralna and hop on a train! Here are our essential day trips.

Krak ów

First, we recommend going to Kraków. The charming medieval city is like something out of a storybook, with a gorgeous medieval market square that’s lined with restaurants and cafes, a magical castle on a hill, and architecture that will have you stopping every two seconds to take another picture. Plus, this was the only major city not bombed to rubble during WWII, so much of this architecture is original and old We have a Poland In Your Pocket guide to Kraków that we highly recommend checking out. But in brief, we'd say visit Wawel Castle, head to rynek for a bite or a drink, and go down to Kazimierz for some excellent Jewish history, good food and a zapienkana (or two or three).

Clearly, there's tons to see in Kraków but one of the best for a day trip, is the Wieliczka Salt Mine —and we really do mean a day trip. Set aside a whole day for this one. There are multiple tours through these

incredible, cavernous mines, and along the way you can see mining tools, saline lakes, magestic chambers and more. This is a once-in-a-lifetime kind of experience. We recommend doing the easiest and most popular way to visit: via the traditional 'Tourist Route.' The Wieliczka Salt Mine Tourist Route takes

you through 3.5km of the underground mine over the first 3 of its 9 levels, reaching a maximum depth of 135 metres below ground. The whole tour takes about 2 to 3 hours and you'll see a sailine lake, a chapel and more!

How to get there: From Warsaw’s Centralna Station, buy a ticket from PKP Intercity (on their website, intercity.pl or at a ticket window) to Kraków Główny. Train times range from a little over 2 hours to nearly 4 hours depending on the time you go and whether you choose a high-speed train. Prices range: 88 to 260zł per ticket.

Łódź

Next, we highly recommend a visit to Łódź - just one hour away by train! This post-industrial city is booming, with a lovely main street (ul. Piotrkowska) that’s packed with bars, restaurants, and shops. Plus, there are tons of museums, incredible parks, monuments and events all the time.

In addition to just wandering the streets, we recommend a trip to Orientarium Zoo, a massive (and massively popular) zoo with tons of animals from Southeast Asia (35 land species and 180 acquatic species) across three levels. Here, you can see elephants, orangutans, sun bears, macaques, and more in the land section. In the water section, prepare to see sharks, rays, and a gharial crocodile named Kraken. You can participate in daily feedings and you can even do an overnight stay in a shark tunnel! There are also VIP evenings, and workshops. An absolute must.

Another key spot in Łódź is Aquapark Fala — honestly the best waterpark/spa center in the entire country and one of the largest! With 19 water slides (including some incredibly steep ones) and pools

Day Trips from Warsaw

for swimming, it’s great for thrill-seekers and kids. But it’s also great for relaxing. In fact, its wellness center is simply incredible. They offer a Sauna Zone with Finnish and infrared saunas and steam rooms, as well as a tepidarium (a room that lets you relax on a heated bed in silence). There's also a snow cave where you can sit in a cold, snowy room and immediately cool your body down for great health benefits. Also, a salt graduation tower where you can sit in a salt-infused room and reap the health benefits of iodine exposure.

How to get there: Head to Warszawa Centralna and, using PKP Intercity (website or ticket window), get a ticket to Łódź Fabryczna. The ride times are usually a little over an hour, and the cost hovers around the 50 zł range.

A final must-visit, especially for families with kids, is Mandoria City of Adventures, which is an all-indoor Renaissance-era theme park! Along with workers dressed in beautiful period costumes (princess dresses all over!) and lovely 16th-century scenery (castles and old town square buildings), find over 30 attractions here, including Aquila, the only roller coaster of its kind that's fully indoors! Additionally, find paddle boats, water attractions, more roller coasters and spinning rides, a mirror maze and a giant slide.

How to get there: From Warszawa West, use PKP Intercity, get a ticket to Łódź Fabryczna. From there, you can take several buses down south - note that you will likely need to do a transfer between buses. Or you can get an Uber from the train station.

Art, History & Culture

Warsaw’s combination of these three is what makes it so exciting. Whether you’re an art lover, amateur historian, or tracing your roots, Warsaw’s heady brew of imperial grandeur, prewar glamour, 20th century tragedy, socialist austerity and present-day dynamism makes it unique in Europe and offers much to the visitor. Use this chapter of the guide to discover the capital’s art spaces and current exhibitions, find out about museums ranging from niche to national, and learn about sites related to some of the most important events in Warsaw’s modern history.

Warsaw’s Best Museums & Art Spaces

Warsaw is the centre of Poland’s contemporary art scene and home to countless pieces of priceless art. While Kraków’s collections skew more historical, Warsaw boasts a great variety of exhibits showcasing younger artists as well as the nation’s masters. When it comes to art tourism, temporary exhibits are often as or more important than permanent collections, so check the current exhibitions on p.70.

1 Warsaw Uprising Museum

Chronicling the heroism and tragedy of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, this modern museum packed with multimedia displays is one of the best in Poland! QSee p.79

2 National Museum

An incredible museum with some of the best art in the country! Polish painters, international painters and even Ancient Greek and Egyptian Artefacts!QSee p.75.

3 melt museum

A spectacle of light, color, and sound, this museum is a must-visit that uses modern technology to take visitors on a journey that awakens the senses. QSee p.73.

Murals & Street Art

What about art in public spaces? Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with Polish print advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street art as well. And they do. In Warsaw both graffiti art and large-scale murals are a common sight, with the city and private businesses even inviting international artists to do installations. You’ll find a particularly high volume of murals on buildings in Praga, Wola and around the City Centre, where the urban landscape is changing most rapidly. Although it’s a dynamic situation, as many murals are installed on buildings that later become designated for demolition, at WIYP we keep a close eye on murals and urban art, marking major works on all of our maps; just look for the spray can icon Not only that, but we’ve meticulously put it all online with exact GPS coordinates, so that your smartphone can do the work of leading you directly to Warsaw’s alternative artistic visions.

4 Museum of Warsaw

The history of Warsaw is fantastically told in this revamped museum based in eleven historic tenement houses. An Old Town must-see for everyone.QSee p.43

5 POLIN

One thousand years of Polish Jewish history is chronicled in this incredibly impressive, popular museum. One of the top spots in the city.QSee p.77.

6 Museum of Dollhouses, Games and Toys

With tons of dolls and toys from around the world and the last century, this museum delights and fascinates -- all with a healthy dose of nostalgia and whimsy.QSee p.73.

Temporary Exhibits

It’s not uncommon for some temporary exhibits to be major events, even overshadowing the permanent collections of local museums. Of the literal hundreds of art events across Warsaw, here are a few picks for the coming months. For more, as well as other events in the capital, head to our website.

Until 31.12 » Artificial Dreams

The highly popular melt museum has introduced a new permanent exhibit that highlights the connection between art and technology, specifically AI. The creators of the exhibition call it a "technoutopia meets cyberpunk vision of the future." The exhibit, Artificial Dreams takes visitors to unknown realms of the relationship between humans and artificial intelligence through an interactive, highly immersive experience that blends art, light, color, technology and sound to awaken your senses.

You'll see gorgeous projections, stunning (and sometimes mind-bending) lighting effects, interactive installations and much more. Make sure to book your tickets in advance online because this one sells out fast! QG 7, melt museum, Plac Powstańców 2A, MŚwiętokrzyska tel. (+48) 534 125 556, 39 59zł, https://meltmuseum.com/en/exhibitions/

Until 03.05 » The Woman Question

This exhibition at the Modern Art Museum in Warsaw sheds light on many of the unsung (or under-sung) female artists of history. In a nine-part visual narrative, visitors will be able to see the enduring creativity of women artists over the last 500 years -- a result of nearly 200 works, including paintings by women in the Renaissance and Baroque periods, along with women from the 19th Century. The whole exhibit challenges the notion that women were absent from art before 1800 -- they were always creating. And you can see the impressiveness of their work here. As a bonus, see the companion piece "City of Women" also at the museum, which consists of four parts that examine female artists and the history of feminist art and activism.QF‑7/8, Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw, ul. Marszałkowska 103, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10, 35/25 zł, www.artmuseum.pl

Until 28.02 » Three attractions – one journey through time

See Warsaw in a whole new lens! This tour combines 3 attractions that show you the history of industrial Warsaw, and life under Communism in the 20th C. source: Facebook Muzeum Fabryki Norblina You’ll start at the Norblin Factory Museum with an hour-long tour (including a tour guide dressed in a period costume -- fun!). Learn about the history of this post-industrial space. After that, you’ll move on to a Nysa 522, one of the classic vans from the communism era that you’re sure to recognize. On that ride, you’ll pass the Waraw spire and a couple of plazas as well as other key city sites. Finally, you’ll end at the Museum of Life Under Communism, a fascinating museum that delves into all the aspects of life in the second-half of 20th C Poland, with tons of artefacts and recreations. A must-see for everyone. Explore this part on your own or with an audio guide. We’re not being hyperbolic when we say this is the key tour of Warsaw for recent history buffs -- a total must! Tickets run 90 zł or 60 zł discounted, and you can expect to spend around 2.5 hours on this tour.

QC/D‑8, Fabryka Norblina Museum, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 728 59 48 13, 90/60 zł, www.muzeumfabrykinorblina.pl.

26.03 - 28.03 » Warsaw Beer Festival

This is one of the biggest events of the year! Every year in the spring and fall, Warsaw throws a beer festival. It’s rife with tons of craft beer vendors from all over the city -- and beyond (people travel from towns and countries away to show their craft beer here!) -- as well as great food from local food trucks. Nosh on some good bites, sample from over 1,300 different beers, even pick up some crafts and

souvenirs! This place is a must for beer lovers, or people who just enjoy a good festival. It’s a threeday long fest and passes run 55zł for the whole 3 days. Held every year at the Legia Stadium -- so they can really pack in visitors and vendors!QJ‑10, Legia Warszawa, ul. Łazienkowska 3, tel. (+48) 22 318 20 00, 55zł, www.warsawbeerfestival.com.

Until 08.06 » The Power of Words. On Jewish Languages

This is a tale of how languages grew to become the space of cultural development for Jews living in dispersion. They shaped the sphere of the sacred, everyday communication, as well as religious, social, local and national identity, drawing strength from diversity and cultural continuity. Hebrew is at the core of this tale — an ancient language, a sacred language, a modern language. We invite you to get acquainted with its alphabet — to watch, listen and write, to get immersed in a space filled with letters, as if they were an intricately woven ornament. It is a unique opportunity to learn about Jewish culture and discover its echoes in our everyday conversations.QD‑4, POLIN Museum, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, 30/25 zł, www.polin.pl/en/event/power words jewish languages exhibition. Open 10:00 18:00, Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 20:00. Closed Tue.

Museums

Warsaw boasts some superior museums, ranging from world-class attractions full of multimedia displays, to small institutions covering niche historical events. It’s more than we have space to cover here, but you’ll find them all listed and up-todate on our website. In this guide, some of the city’s most important museums are listed within the district tours of Sightseeing section, while the rest of the best are here. Descriptions focus on each museum’s permanent collection; for current temporary exhibits, see p.70

E.Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum

Become a chocolate aficionado at the E.Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum in Warsaw -- home to the most popular chocolatier in the country. Discover the secrets of chocolate production and delicacies through a thematic exhibition, interactive displays and workshops for adults and children alike. There are also classes that combine learning and fun for organized groups of children and teenagers. The main exhibition at the museum covers three levels and is divided into a few thematic spaces -- the Ghanaian Space, The Chocolatier’s space, the Confectioner’s space, and the Designer’s Space. At the end of the tour, you can design your own box for the popular Polish chocolate confection, Ptasie Mleczko with the finished design being sent to visitors via email.QL‑4, aleja Emila Wedla 5, MStadion Narodowy, www.fabrykaczekolady.pl. Open 10:00 20:00. 70/55zł.

Fabryka Norblina Museum

The ever-popular Fabryka Norblina is really over two centuries of history right in the center of Warsaw. So it’s only fitting that a museum would tell that history! The Fabryka Norblina Museum goes over the beginnings of Norblin Factory in the late 18th Century when the land was purchased by Franciszek Ryx who started with two villas and an English-style garden. Now, the space has grown to 10 historic buildings and 50 machines and devices located over 2 hectares—truly a tale of growth!

The permanent exhibition at the Norblin Factory Museum is based on four basic tour routes: ‘Buildings and Architecture’, ‘Machines and Equipment’, “Products” and “People .‘ An additional path connecting the most important and interesting elements of the basic paths is ’The Norblin Factory in a Nutshell,” which is guided by museum guides. We recomment two routes in particular: the

Buildings and Architecture route as well as the Machines and Equipment route. Here you can see objects that are part of the historic Norblin Factory, entered in the register of monuments. Equally interesting is the Products route, where you can see the original historical products of the Factory. The People route is a walk through the factory streets and squares, which have their own patrons. Plan for around 1 to 1.5 hours for the whole experience! QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 728 59 48 13, www.muzeumfabrykinorblina.pl/. Open 9:00 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00–16:00; closed Mon. With a guide, 40 zł; online ticket 15 zł.

melt

museum

Melt museum offers a fully sensory experience involving lights, color, interactive exhibits, robot dogs, and so so so much more! The museum takes an audiovisual approach to creativity, using a blend of art and ultra-modern technology to offer vibrant imagery and sounds that are meant to awaken all of your senses. The museum hosts popular temporary exhibitions and asks that you book your tickets in advance online (it’s a very popular experience). Once you do, you’ll step inside a mind-bending world of light, color, touch and sound that really highlights what technology can do and how it can affect our perception of our world. Bring your phone because the photos you’ll take will be some of your best!

Visiting time: 45-60mins. QG‑7, Plac Powstańców 2A, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 534 125 556, www. meltmuseum.com. Open 12:00 21:00; Sat, Sun 10:00–21:00. Prices are available after clicking on the selected exhibition. Please book your places online in advance. Due to the limited number of places available at a given time, there is no guarantee that tickets will be available for purchase at the venue.

Museum of Dollhouses, Games & Toys

A small, charming museum fittingly located right in Warsaw’s Old Town. Showcasing over 150 highlydetailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, the museum has four permanent exhibitions on display at its headquarters at 15 Podwale Street; “In the World of Old Dolls’ Houses,” “Sacred Toys,” “Dolls of the World,” and “Games and Polish Toys of the 20th Century.” A checkroom and restroom are available on site, the main exhibition is adapted to be visited by wheelchair users. Visiting time: 45-60mins.QF‑4, ul. Podwale 15 (entrance in courtyard), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 797 72 30 29, www.muzeumdomkow.pl. Open 09:00 19:00. Tickets 42/30zł; kids under 1m tall, free. U

Museum of Fantastic Art

The world of Polish fantasy/surrealist art is both as mesmerising as it is confronting, and its unique style and construct of emotions have become recognised internationally. Residing within the grounds of Plac Koneser in Warsaw’s Praga district, the Museum of Fantastic Art has regularly changing exhibitions which have included the works of such popular artists as Zdzisław Beksiński, Jerzy Duda-Gracz, and Wiesław Wałkuski. While that would otherwise be sufficient content for such a gallery, this unique art space celebrates the successive generation of Polish fantastic artists. Most of the works of art on display have never been presented to the public before. Average visiting time: 40-60 min.QK‑3, ul. Ząbkowska 31 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 798 82 27 65, www.muzeumsztukifantastycznej. pl. Open 11:00 19:00. Admission 40/30zł. U

Museum of Life under Communism

If Warsaw’s communist history isn’t vivid enough for you on a walk around the capital, immerse yourself in PRL (Polish People’s Republic) vibes at this private museum. Showing what everyday life was like for locals during the years of Poland’s communist rule, the nostalgic exhibits include a recreation of a typical PRL-era apartment, plus plenty of photos,

artefacts and relics that demonstrate the difficulty and absurdity of those times. Bittersweet for older Poles and eye-opening for foreigners. Visiting time: 1hr.QG‑10, ul. Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul. Piękna), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.mzprl.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Fri 12:00 20:00. Admission 32/22zł. Audioguides free (after getting an app on https://mzprl.pl/audioguide free of charge/?lang=en ) in EN, FR, IT & ESP.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw

Taking up four storeys and 20,000 m2 (including over 4,000 m2 of gallery area), the museum was designed by a New York City-based architecture studio and features exhibition spaces, educational areas for lectures and workshops, conservation and restoration workshops, a cinema, an auditorium, a café, and a museum shop. The art here is incredible, with regularly changing exhibits and fixed pieces that highlight the best of Polish and international modern art. An absolute must for art lovers! The Plac Defilad spot is now the primary home to the museum, which has had previous locations on the Vistula and on Pańska 3. It will undoubtedly hold tons more exhibitions and performances as time goes on -- prepare to visit again and again. Visiting time: 90minQF‑7/8, ul. Marszałkowska 103, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10, www.artmuseum.pl/en. Open 12:00 20:00; closed Mon. 30/20zł.

Pharmacy Museum

In this reconstructed interior of an interwar pharmacy, find glass vials and beakers, wooden furnishings, period advertisements and vintage pharmaceutical equipment. learn Stories of medicines, poisons, and narcotics, as well as Japanese Kampo medicine, and learn about one of the world’s first female pharmacists – Antonina Leśniewska. A lovely space that's sure to impress! Visiting time: 45mins.QF‑4, ul. Piwna 31/33, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 71 79, www.muzeumfarmacji. muzeumwarszawy.pl/. Open 10:00 18:00; closed Mon, Sun. Last admission is 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/8zł. Thu free. U­6

Polish Vodka Museum

The site of a former Vodka factory, closed in 2007 and now restored to become one of the beacons of the newly renovated Praga Koneser Centre in the Praga district. This place celebrates vodka -- both its history and production, as well as its taste!

This is Poland's national drink, and therefore, proponents of vodka would like us all to approach the drink like Scots to whisky. The museum is a multimedia-filled experience, taking you from the early beginnings to modern day production methods. Along the way, you will see a variety of really old vodka bottles, be treated to a vodka tasting, and afterwards, have the opportunity

Invisible Exhibition

A unique experience where seeing impaired guides lead you into their sightless world. On the tour you’ll understand the challenges blind people face daily as you try to write with a Braille typewriter, use kitchen gadgets designed for the sightless, and solve simple puzzles while blindfolded. Next, enter a series of pitch-black rooms that force you to rely on your other senses. You’ll feel the contours of a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is, listen for cars before crossing the street, and the guide will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar (bring some cash). Truly a fascinating experience. To visit, book online in advance. Tours in English can be arranged, but you must first email them via info@niewidzialna.pl with ‘TOUR IN ENGLISH’ as the subject line. Visiting time: 1hr.

QC‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A (Atlas Tower), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.niewidzialna.pl.

Open 10:00 20:00. Admission 45/40zł; Sat, Sun 50/45zł. N

to buy some classy gifts. The museum is a celebration of the wonderful spirit, so deeply tied to Polish history itself. Make sure to book in advance Visiting time: 1.5hrs.QK‑2, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl. Open 12:00 20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 21:00; closed Mon. from 70zł. 6

Vodka Museum

Poland’s first-ever vodka museum is a captivating journey through the more than 500-year history of Poland’s cherished national drink. With the world’s largest collection of over 10,000 exhibits, visitors delve into vodka’s origins, production processes, design, and even the traditional etiquette in which vodka is served and consumed. Independently founded by the passionate owners of the renowned restaurant Elixir by Dom Wódki (p.95), the museum seeks to shift the perception of Polish vodka from mere party indulgence to a finely-sipped and respected spirit. Showcasing intriguing artifacts like a Napoleonic soldier’s vodka-filled canteen and 1920s/30s bottles that were sent to the U.S. during prohibition, the museum offers an enlightening and enjoyable experience, and paying a little extra gets you in on a vodka tasting session. Tickets cost 30zł to see the permanent exhibition, whilst an included vodka tasting session is available from 35zł to 199 zł for the VIP experience! Prior reservation is essential!QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 11 (entrance from ul. Canaletta), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 888 60 08 05, www.muzeumwodki.pl. Open 13:00 19:00; Fri, Sat 13:00 20:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 30zł (MUSEUM TOUR WITHOUT TASTING + audio guide). X

Warsaw National Museum

Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre interwar building, this is Warsaw’s most comprehensive art museum, leading you from the ancient world through the middle ages up to the 19th century. Along the way you’ll see the some of the country’s most priceless works, including 15th century Dutch masters and Botticelli, plus Polish masters like Chełmoński, Matejko and Wyspiański. There’s also the Gallery of Polish Design and the Faras Gallerythe latter of which holds a rare exhibit of medieval Nubian art from the Nile River Valley, plus temporary exhibits. Visiting time: 3hrs.QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Fri 10:00 20:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/15zł for permanent exhibits; kids and students up to 26; 1zł; Tue free. Friday: from 5 p.m., 50% discount on all tickets. U

Jewish Warsaw

When Nazi Germany invaded Poland in September 1939, Warsaw’s thriving Jewish population numbered approximately 350,000 - only New York City could boast a larger community.

Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland had been seen as a relative safe haven, and it attracted Jewish settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years, the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland.

As we know, Nazi occupation meant the complete dehumanisation and systematic destruction of Poland’s Jews, who were first forced into ghettos, where they faced violence, starvation and disease, and then deported to Nazi death camps where they were executed. The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of WWII and occupied much of the City Centre, as you can see by its outline on the maps in this guide. At its height it imprisoned 460,000 Jews in an area of 3.4km2. After more than 254,000 Varsovian Jews were sent to their deaths at Treblinka in the summer of 1942, those remaining began building bunkers and smuggling weapons into the Ghetto in preparation for what would be the war’s largest act of Jewish resistance. Beginning on April 19, 1943, Jewish fighting units engaged German troops in guerilla

warfare within the walls of the Ghetto in a final, doomed act of bravery, defiance and protest against the world’s silence and inaction. When the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ended 27 days later with the German command’s symbolic detonation of the Great Synagogue, 13,000 Jews had been killed, almost half of them perishing from the fire and smoke as the Nazis burned the Ghetto to the ground, building by building. Of the remaining 50,000 Jews, almost all of them were captured and perished at the Majdanek or Treblinka Nazi death camps.

Following WWII, much of Warsaw’s surviving Jewish population chose to emigrate to the U.S., the British mandate of Palestine (taking an active part in the creation of Israel) and elsewhere. Today Warsaw’s Jewish community is estimated at only about 2,000, but the city’s Jewish heritage remains an essential part of its identity, honoured today by innumerable monuments, memorials, museums and events, foremost among them the POLIN Museum, presenting the history of Polish Jews, and the annual Singer’s Warsaw Festival For a full list of Jewish tourism sites in Warsaw, visit our website

Worth Visiting

Anielewicz Bunker

Only 350m from POLIN, this small mound and memorial marks the site of the large bunker from which the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation (ŻOB). Located beneath the tenement at the wartime address of ul. Miła 18 (today Miła 2), the bunker was discovered and surrounded by the Nazis on May 8, 1943, with about 300 people hiding inside. Given the chance to surrender, half of the occupants - mostly civilians - gave themselves up, but the ŻOB insurrectionists chose to stay and fight. When the Nazis used gas to force them out, many of the ŻOB fighters chose suicide. 120 fighters died, including ŻOB commander Mordechai Anielewicz and his girlfriend Mira Fuchrer; only about 15 survived (many of whom perished later). The bodies of the dead were never exhumed and covered over with rubble from the surrounding tenements to make this mound after the war. Today two monuments can be found on/near the memorial with inscriptions commemorating their sacrifice.

QD‑3, ul. Miła 2, MDworzec Gdański.

Jewish Historical Institute

This amazing historical building that stood next to Warsaw’s Great Synagogue houses the Oneg Shabbat Archive, also known as the Ringelblum Archive - a secretly kept collection of documents, reports, essays, letters and other materials recording exactly what life was like in the Warsaw Ghetto, by those who were experiencing it, as it happened. As the Ghetto came under siege in 1943, the vast archive was secretly buried in three containers in three separate locations. Sadly, only the first two have been recovered, but they represent such extraordinary witness testimony that they were inscribed on UNESCO’s Memory of the World List

In the permanent exhibit you will see the original documents of the archive, the authentic containers and more. If you don’t have the time for POLIN, this is a great alternative. There are also temporary exhibits and an excellent bookshop. Visiting time: 90mins.

QE‑5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Fri 10:00 16:00; closed Sat. Last entrance 1h before closing. Admission 15/10zł. Mon free. Guided tour of permanent exhibit (Tue Fri): 40 zł.

Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery

A beautiful and poignant place to visit, this is Warsaw’s only active Jewish cemetery. Established in 1806 beyond the city trenches (‘okopy,’ where today’s Okopowa Street runs), the cemetery houses some 200,000 tombs and is the final resting place of many generations of Varsovian Jews, including Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB‑5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.cemetery.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00 17:00; Fri 10:00 15:00; closed Sat. Admission 20zł. N

POLIN Museum

One of the best museums in Poland, POLIN explains a millennium of Polish Jewish history and relations through multimedia displays that earned the 2016 European Museum of the Year award. Located within the former Warsaw Ghetto, the modern building itself is a stunning structure of copper and glass. Inside, each gallery addresses a different era in the history of the Jewish people in PL. Learn about kings, inventors, thinkers and industrialists; about Jewish holidays, customs, religion and culture. While the Holocaust is described in detail, the permanent exhibit is primarily a celebration of 1,000 years of Jewish life in PL. It takes the better part of a day to explore. One combined ticket gets you into permanent and temporary exhibits. The museum is also home to a cafe and an excellent restaurant serving traditional Jewish cuisine (kosher dishes available). In the middle of a green public square, outside, visitors will also see several monuments, including a massive memorial the heroes of the Warsaw Ghetto. Plan ahead because the last entrance to the core exhibit is 2 hours before closing time. Visiting time: 3hrs.QD‑4, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Sat 10:00 20:00; closed Tue. Admission with audio guide 45/35zł, Thu free. T­U

Warsaw Uprising

August 1, 1944 . Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in rebellion in what would be the largest uprising in the German occupied territories.

With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army on the east bank of the Vistula, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the ‘Armia Krajowa’ or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. What ensued was an epic 63-day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler’s forces.

17:00 - W-Hour

On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski, 17:00 signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would simultaneously attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles had was offset by a lack of weaponry. Nonetheless the Germans were caught off guard, and the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital.

Within days German reinforcements poured in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, cultural life thrived. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks.

Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on the insurgents' side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate. All hopes rested on the Russians.

After six weeks of inaction Red Army Marshal Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and no headway made. This single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich.

The Aftermath

Having deposited their weaponry, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. ‘No stone can remain standing,’ warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on.

Warsaw Rising Museum

Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive, multimedia displays, period artefacts, photos, video footage and plenty of sounds effects, this museum is guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station, the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the 1944 Uprising - provided they don’t make any wrong turns; it’s a common mistake, and, as such, an audioguide (10zł) is handy. You can also get a guided tour in Polish (150zł) or in another language (250zł). Set aside several hours for the experience. Visitors start by learning about life under Nazi rule, with immersive displays including a clandestine radio station and covert printing press. The mezzanine level features a film detailing the first month of battle, including the opportunity to clamber through a mock sewer. There is also an exact replica of the B24 Allied planes used to make supply drops over the besieged city. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the city’s destruction; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis.Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-inducing 5min 3D aerial ‘film’ that uses old photos and new tech to recreate the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945. A viewing platform and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this experience. Expect 35zł or 40 zł for a group in Polish. Other language tours cost more. Book in advance on the web. Visiting time: 3hrs.QB‑7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 8:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 18:00; closed Tue. Admission 35/30zł (kids under 7 free), Mon free. Audioguides in 8 languages 13zł/person. U

Activities & Experiences

Hey, it doesn’t all have to be exhausting museums and knee-lifts as you explore Poland’s largest city. Check out the local activities below if you’re looking for fun alternatives to traditional sightseeing, ready to try something new, or simply want some rest and relaxation.

Smart Kids Planet

Smart Kids Planet is one of the best spots for kids and families in Poland! With 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, kids can play and learn as they do different tasks like building construction, shopping for food and fresh produce, learning about sports, and the magic of machinery and production lines, and much more! They'll develop cognitive function and cooperation skills all while having fun (plus there's a rest area for parents!)QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 9:00 20:00.

Stacja Grawitacja

Gravity getting you down? Get the bounce back in your step at this huge trampoline park that also features 3D virtual reality gaming by Hologate, a ropes course, obstacle course, basketball and volleyball courts and even a climbing wall with routes for all ages and abilities. Put on anti-slip socks and join the fun. Children ages 3-6 must be accompanied by adults; older kids can be let loose while their parents hang out at the well-stocked cafe.

Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www. stacjagrawitacja.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00.

Museum World of Illusion

A strict break from the stuffiness of the Old Town, this fun, colourful museum is exciting and educational for all ages. Enter the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows, and an upsidedown room - each and every one out-of-this world! Pefect for groups and pairs -- go discover the extent to which the mind can be tricked by the eye (don't forget to whip out your phone for pics!).QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl. Open 09:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00. Admission 42/32zł.

Highline Warsaw

MK Bowling Entertainment Center

Found inside Galeria Młociny in the northern district of Bielany, this modern entertainment centre is just 2 mins away from the final stop of the M1. Once you’re there, you have the choice of 18 bowling lanes, 9 billiards tables, 4 shuffleboard tables, and 2 electronic dart boads, plus a kitchen that dishes out sandwiches, beer, snacks and more!Call in advance to reserve.Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15 (Galeria Młociny, 2nd floor), MMłociny, tel. (+48) 600 80 05 56, www.mkbowling.pl/start warszawa. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri 12:00 24:00; Sat 10:00 24:00; Sun 10:00 22:00.

Atop the highest tower in the EU, this place should be your final stop after sightseeing. Get 360-degree views of the city from their observation deck on the 53rd floor. The tour to the top starts with a speedy panoramic elevator among the clouds. There’s an exhibition about Warsaw and an Experience Room with three films about the city’s history. Also head to the HighGarden Rooftop Lounge on the 49th floor for cocktails.QE‑8, Varso Tower, Chmielna 69, MRondo ONZ, tel. (48) 22 162 52 50, www.highlinewarsaw. com. Open 10:00 22:00.

Warsaw Arcade Museum

This is one for nostalgia and fun-lovers alike! This interactive museum of video games is like a time machine back to the 80s and 90s, with tons of classic video games available to everyone, 120 vintage arcade machines and even the history of arcade games and their revolution over the years. Find arcade classics like Pac Man, Mario, Donkey Kong and much much more. Perfect for kids and adults!QAl. Jerozolimskie 200, tel. (+48) 573 999 815, www.warsawarcademuseum.com. Open 14:00 21:00; Fri 14:00 22:00; Sat 11:00 22:00; Sun 11:00 20:00. 60/40zł/1h.

Beauty & Spa

Elektrownia Powiśle’s Beauty Hall is an oasis of calm in the middle of a bustling city.

By this point, you’re well aware of how jam-packed Warsaw is. From little cafes to walking paths, to Old Town (p.38), park (p.56) and center city (p.28) sightseeing. But sometimes you just need to take a break from all the exploring and relax, and Warsaw is the place for that, too!

In fact, we think it’s better than many other cities in this department for a number of reasons. A big one is variety. Warsaw spas and beauty centers use different concepts to bring you a relaxing, fun experience that you cannot find anywhere else.

Beauty Hall

Elektrownia Powiśle’s Beauty Hall is an oasis of beauty and relaxation in the heart of Warsaw. The one-ofa-kind concept offers the comfort of holistic beauty in a lovely space. Take advantage of a wide range of face and body treatments in the Beauty Skin clinic, massages and holistic rituals in Balance & Beauty by Marta Bem, and barber and beauty services offered by experienced specialists at the Warsaw House of Lords salon. It is an ideal destination for both a quick treatment during the day and a longer regeneration after work or on the weekend. The Beauty Hall zone is found on level +2 in Elektrownia PowiśleQH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42 (Elektrownia Powiśle), MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.beautyhall.pl Open 08:00 20:00; Sun 10:00 19:00.

Beer & Wine SPA

What do you get when you combine a love of fine wines and beers, a passion for relaxation, and a beautiful spot for health and well-being? Of course the answer is the Beer and Wine Spa!

Here you can enjoy high-quality spa treatments like goat milk baths, massages and more, along with some of the tastiest beverages you can find in the city. In fact, the two are so intertwined, that you can even get facial treatments from the beer and grape cosmetics line which give your skin deep rejuvination. Or book a whole beer/wine spa package and sip a glass of bubbly while you enjoy top-notch spa treatments.

This is really a true symbol of comfort and relaxation, with the concept based on the idea that good feelings and good well-being go hand-in-hand. Plus, you can enjoy 20% off all treatments during a current promotion! Perfect for couples, singles, friend groups and more.QG 7, plac Powstańców Warszawy 2a, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 662 380 090, www.beerandwinespa.pl. Open 12:00 20:00.

Dr. Hauschka Showroom NEW

This new showroom that opened up in December is one of only 5 Dr. Hauschka showrooms across the globe! And as such, it’s worth taking advantage of the great location. This international (and internationally renowned) skincare brand offers 100% natural products to plump, revive, mosturize and envigorate the skin. But it goes way beyond that in this showroom -- they’re creating a full-blown wellness experience, with makeup and lifestyle workshops, as well as a plan to offer massage treatments in the summer. Plus, the experience of shopping here is incredible in itself -- the place is bright and aromatic, with a deeply tranquil feel. Munch on some cookies or sip coffee or sparkling water as a skincare expert walks you through the best routine personalized for your unique skin. QZygmunta Krasińskiego 27, MPlac Wilsona, tel. (+48) 888 757 677, www.drhauschka.pl. Open 12:00 18:00; Sat 11:00 15:00. Closed Sun.

Factory Family Salon NEW

Slow down, take a breath, and relax. Located right in the heart of Warsaw, this salon upholds these principles by creating a space of tranquility, peace and feminine energy -- make every visit a small ritual. There are tons of offerings here: hair, nails, eyebrows, eyelashes, body and facial massage, and gentle beauty rituals.... all in a tranquil atmosphere that will leave you feeling both rejuvinated and beautiful -- inside and out! Factory Family focuses on an individual approach, tailoring each treatment to the needs of specific visitors and clients. The team ensures that you will not only get a top-notch treatment, but that you’ll fall deep into relaxation as you do.QC‑7, ul. Krochmalna 61, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 797 76 60 00, www.factoryfamily.booksy.com/h. Open 9:00 20:00.

With top-tier treatments for hair, face and body, Factory Family is the ideal beauty clinic.

Kids & Families

While Warsaw has plenty of wonders, not every cultural site is going to be engaging for young visitors. The first step to having a successful family vacation is probably to just accept that what you and your kids want to do are not going to be one and the same. That said, there’s common ground to be found in some of Warsaw’s most popular attractions.

Wandering the Old Town (p.38) or Łazienki (p.56) will likely please everyone, as will a walk along the Vistula Boulevards (p.52) - a great outing with plenty of diversions, most obvious of which is the stimulating and educational Copernicus Science Centre (p.54) and Multimedia Fountain Park further north. You’ll also find playgrounds along the river, and in the high season you can take a ferry to the wild side of Wisła and enjoy one of the city’s wild beaches

Although it may sound more like punishment, kids really respond to the interactive exhibits of the highly modern Warsaw Rising Museum (p.79), which features areas designed specifically for young visitors. Some of Warsaw’s more niche museums like the National Ethnographic Museum, Museum of Dollhouses and Photoplasticon are also good choices for families. Of course, Warsaw has plenty of action-packed indoor attractions, too so don’t miss the rainy day recommendations on the previous pages.

E. Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum

This museum is a kid's dream come true! One of the most popular chocolatiers in the country, Wedel, has a large exhibit that lets you discover the secrets of chocolate production and delicacies through a thematic exhibition, interactive displays and workshops for adults and children alike. There are also classes that combine learning and fun for organized groups of children and teenagers. There are three levels in the museum, which teach kids about how chocolate is made -- from picking the beans to storing them -- as well as the techniques for making chocolate. Think Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory come to life!

And of course, what would a chocolate museum be without tastings? There's plenty of that, as well as a great opportunity for kids to design their own boxes for the popular Ptasie Mleczko Wedel chocolate confection!Qaleja Emila Wedla 5, MStadion Narodowy, www.fabrykaczekolady.pl. Open 10:00 20:00. 70/55zł.

Warsaw Photoplasticon

Hidden in a darkened pre-war tenement near the train station, a visit here really is a trip back in time. A popular form of entertainment in the pre-cinema era, a ‘photoplasticon’ is basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) where visitors sit in front of a viewing station to see vivid photos as they slowly rotate by. Although photoplasticons were quickly made obsolete by moving pictures, this one, which has been located here since 1905, somehow stayed open, surviving the war and even serving as a meeting point for intellectuals during the communist era. Check online to see what’s loaded into the machine (does it matter?). Visiting time: 20mins. QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; closed Tue. Admission 10/6zł; Thu free.

Smart Kids Planet

Young families visiting Warsaw need not worry about wholesome and constructive fun for the kids! Head along to Fabryka Norblina (p.31) and you will find Smart Kids Planet - the first edutainment centre in Poland, that is, a recreational format that bridges the gap between playrooms and science centres. Divided into 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, young minds can journey through many different worlds - building construction, food and fresh produce, sports, the magic of machinery and production lines, and right out into the cosmos with their very own designs coming to life before their eyes! Made for children aged from 0-10, this is certainly not a traditional ‘educational’ environment! Online tickets: 45-95zł; tickets at reception: 49-99zł. Buy for 1-2 hours or a full day. For children aged 0-10 QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 09:00 20:00. U

Warsaw Arcade Museum

This is one for nostalgia and fun-lovers alike! This interactive museum of video games is like a time machine back to the 80s and 90s, with tons of classic video games available to everyone, 120 vintage arcade machines and even the history of arcade games and their evolution over the years. Find arcade classics like Pac Man, Mario, Donkey Kong and much much more. Perfect for a break from the regular tourist attractions, and great for a birthday party, corporate meeting or event, the Warsaw Arcade museum is a must-visit! QAl. Jerozolimskie 200, tel. (+48) 573 99 98 15, www.warsawarcademuseum.com. Open 14:00 21:00; Fri 14:00 22:00; Sat 11:00 22:00; Sun 11:00 20:00. 60/40zł/1h.

Dining in Warsaw

Nowhere is Warsaw’s vibrancy and diversity more apparent than in its progressive culinary scene. What follows are some of the most noteworthy dining establishments in the capital, divided into basic categories with the type of cuisine listed under the venue name; for more options visit our website. In terms of tipping, 10% is standard (easy math). Smacznego!

Yes Butcher! Shop & Bistro

utensils Steak

Under the helm of experienced chef Michał Gniadek, this shop has three elegant locations in Żoliborz, Mokotów and Saska Kępa (and one in Poznan). The first thing that’s likely to catch your eye is the enormous counter displaying the best this shop has to offer. That’s various cuts of steak (sirloin, striploin, ribeye, tomahawk, T-bone, picanha, hanger, Denver, and flat iron), all from countries known for their beef. They also offer lamb, veal, pork, organic poultry and homemade meals. You can order online and have it shipped to any city in Poland! Or do takeaway. Almost every product can be sampled on-site. Yes Butcher! has won two prestigious awards at the World Steak Challenge gala: including World’s Best Grain-Fed Ribeye and a gold medal of excellence for its ribeye from a Polish Hereford Premium heifer.

QF‑14, al. Niepodległości 132/136, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 798 03 98 69, www.yesbutcher.pl

Open 12:00 22:00. Shop: Monday Saturday: 10:00–22:00 Sunday: 10:00–20:00. €€€. U­S

KUK Restaurant

utensils International

Culinary artistry gets up close and personal with the sophistication and essence of Warsaw’s history, as KUK embraces both a natural and local approach to its menu. Their dishes indulge the taste buds with a range of wholesome ingredients and products, all sourced from trusted crops and seasonal delights just as they were by the discerning foodie class of the Polish Renaissance! KUK is part of the 18thcentury Branicki-Szaniawski complex (p.40). Chef Dawid Bielecki draws inspiration from Polish cuisine, combining classic flavors with a modern approach and local ingredients. It embraces Polish and Varsovian cuisine, presenting it all in a light, fresh way that’s both contemporary and rooted in tradition. Their small plates are perfect for sharing among friends.

QF 4, ul. Miodowa 6/8, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 511 46 46 45, www.hotelverte.com/kuk.

Open 17:00 23:00; Sat 12:00–23:00; Sun 12:00 23:00. Last order: 22:00. €€€€. X­T­U­E­6

Breakfast & Brunch

For some the direction of the day depends on the ability to eat a good breakfast, so we’ve highlighted some of our favourite places in Warsaw that specialise in śniadania (the Polish word for breakfast). Whether you’re an early bird or a late riser, get a good first feed in the places listed here!

Bułkę przez Bibułkę

With several locations around town, this is a great little place that makes you feel like you're in a small town setting. The interior walls may look like the builders forgot to finish the job they started, but this is all part of the charm of the shabby chic look, which fits quite well with the warmth and mood of the place. It's important to highlight the most important aspects of this place, the first being that they serve all-day breakfasts which are damn good! From bagels to soups and sandwiches, it's all there. Something for all budgets, enjoy offers like the prosecco at 8zł a glass! Their other locations are on ul. Zwycięzców 32 in Saska Kępa, ul. Puławska 24 in the Mokotów district, ul. Żurawia 6/12 and in Śródmieście district, Al. Wojska Polskiego 3 in Konstancin.QG‑8, ul. Zgoda 3, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 28 55 22, www. bulkeprzezbibulke.pl. Open 07:30 23:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 22:00. €. T­B­6

Nova Wola

Located within the elegant Crowne Plaza Hotel, Nova Wola encourages a wholesome start to your day in Warsaw, with a fresh and organic breakfast selection as part of its impressive modern Polish menu offer (p.96). Served mainly for guests of the hotel, the breakfast will run you 110 zł. You’ll find light and healthy options crafted from local and seasonal ingredients. The breakfast menu includes favorites like omelettes with customizable add-ins, shakshouka, brioche with smoked salmon, avocado and fried egg, and oatmeal with coconut milk. For those seeking unique choices, Nova Wola also offers baked sweet potatoes with yogurt, berries, and granola, as well as hummus with roasted vegetables, avocado and egg.QC‑8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www. novawola.com. Open 06:30 10:30; Sat, Sun 06:30 11:00. €€€€. T­U

Dining

Stacja Caffe

Bounce your way on over to some tasty food as you enjoy one of Warsaw’s best activity parks!

Located right in the oh-so-popular Stacja Grawitacja trampoline (and more) center is this charming cafe, which serves everything from mozzarella and pesto sandwiches, to egg breakfasts, gnocchi meals and an array of smoothies!

It’s the perfect break after a fun day (and a workout!) jumping around the activity center, which includes a trampoline park, a climbing wall, a ropes course, and way more. Fuel up at the cafe and head back out for more fun!Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www.stacjagrawitacja.pl/warszawa/bistro/ menu stacja caffe/. Open 10:00 22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00. €. T­6­i

The Cool Cat

One of our favourites, The Cool Cat is part Asianfusion bistro, part cocktail dive bar, all Varsovian awesome. If you need evidence that this laidback cult hangout has hipness to spare, they sells jars of their own vegan mayo and kimchi, plus kombucha for 25 zł. In terms of dining in, The Cool Cat specialises in ramen (of course) and serves an iconic bao donut

dessert topped with matcha ice cream and caramel miso. They also have weekday lunch specials for only 38zł (12:00-16:00), exceptional coffee, wacky cocktails, craft beer and natural wines. Honestly, there’s no reason not to be here. 2nd location at ul. Marszałkowska 8 (H-12).QI‑7, ul. Solec 38, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 574 81 18 16. Open 10:00 21:00; Fri 10:00 22:00; Sat 09:30 22:00; Sun 09:30 21:00. €€. T­6

To Lubię

Escape just beyond the medieval confines of the Old Town walls to find this charmingly twee cafe specialising in coffee, cakes, quiche and delicious fruit crumbles. If you enjoy Kraków’s cosy cafe culture, this spot is right up that alley, as opposed to the capital’s overabundance of postindustrial spaces with modern, minimal furnishings. When it comes to indulging in aromatic coffee and rich cakes, we’ll take the former.

Breakfast is served all day, as well as wraps, lots of matcha products, and some savoury snacks. The name translates to ‘I like this’ and indeed we do.QF‑3, ul. Freta 8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23, www.tolubie.pl. Open 09:00 22:00. €. 6

Casual dining

Beef n’ Pepper’s surf and turf beef tenderloin is just one of the succulent, and perfectly seasoned, dishes on the menu.

Sometimes you just need a casual and convenient place to relax, enjoy good food, vibes and hospitality. The following venues deliver in that regard. While our listed opening hours seem self-explanatory, be aware that some venues close their doors if business is slow, while others stay open after the kitchen has closed. In such cases, the hours we list are for the kitchen.

Beef n’ Pepper

utensils Steak

This smart, urban steakhouse is the pinacle of what Warsaw has to offer in the way of affordable but still chic dining. The quality of the cuts here is excellent (28 days wet-aged or 30 days dry-aged) and the fact that they use the finest local meats means the prices are surprisingly reasonable. Seafood and Louisiana Chicken Wings struggle for a look-in as beef rules. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons, and there’s live music every Tuesday from 19:00. Don’t miss their new Sundays with the kids, where kids can participate in hands-on activities! QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl. Open 12:00 24:00. €€€€.

T­U­E­6

Symbol & Price Key

utensils Category of Cuisine

C-1 Map Coordinate

E Live music

Ciao Napoli

utensils Italian

Located a short distance away from the Old Town Square (p.42), Ciao Napoli succeeds in bringing a little piece of Naples to the centre of Warsaw. Offering a selection of antipasti, salads, piadina, panuozzo and desserts, it’s the Neapolitan pizzas, with their fantastic thin and crispy dough, which really distinguish this small family-run franchise. The friendly atmosphere and cosiness of the restaurant also makes an impact. You will leave satisfied, especially when you realise how reasonably priced the whole experience is! Their second location at ul. Piwna 40/42 (F-4) has weekday lunch specials from 12:00-16:00.QF‑4, ul.

Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 508 69 43 52, www.ciaonapoli.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. €€. T­B­6

N Credit cards not accepted

M Metro o Year-round garden

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

X Smoking room available

6 Animal friendly

€ most mains under 35zł

€€ most mains 35–55zł

€€€ most mains 55–80zł

€€€€ most mains 80–120zł

€€€€€ most mains over 120zł

Cucina Mia

utensils Italian

Ciucina Mia is both a story and a celebration of Italian cuisine and culture, with excellent, traditional dishes. Taste a wide range of flavors like Amalfi lemons, Umbriaco cheese soaked in red wine, earthy black truffles, salty and savory ham, and fresh mussles and red prawns straight off a Sicilian fishing boat. In short, the food here is the real Italian deal. The restaurant has even reintroduced a 300-year-old recipe created in a small Italian town. Plus, the flavors are complemented by top-shelf wines and exquisite, rich desserts. And it’s all created by experienced chef Deniele Pampagnin, who boasts an impressive resume that includes restaurants in Mykonos, Ibiza and London, along with Michelin-recognized Chef Lorenzo Robustelli. QH‑9, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Grand Warsaw), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 61 00, www. cucinamia.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. €€€. U­B­E

Czerwony Wieprz

utensils Polish

Workers of the world unite around a large choice of well-presented Socialist Bloc cuisine. Deriving its name from a former meeting place for members of the early communist movement, legend has it that even Lenin paid this place a visit in 1909. The interior is based on the style favoured by the 1950’s -1960’s party elite, and the walls are bedecked with memorabilia of the era. Somehow the owners have managed to carefully side swerve tackiness and the whole experience has a lovely, faded and nostalgic glam to it. Immensely popular with locals and tourists alike (including Bruce Willis, Lennox Lewis and the Real Madrid football squad), 2012 saw ‘The Hog’ voted one of the 25 best and most interesting restaurants in the world by the Spanish Trade Leaders’ Club. The restaurant closes at 23:00 daily, except for Sundays when it closes at 22:00.QC‑7, ul. Żelazna 68, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www. czerwonywieprz.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€. T­U­B

Drevny Kocur

utensils Czech

The last secrects of comunist cuisine... 1909

NEW

This friendly restaurant deals in generous serves of authentic Czech comfort food, and legendary Budweiser Budvar beer—unpasturised, full of flavour, and straight from the tank! Plus, this large space has the only 360-degree TV in Warsaw (and the second in Poland), showing football all the time. The perfect place for a beer and a match!

Taking its name from a vernacular Czech word for ‘squirrel’, this family-run spot brings authentic Czech comfort food and tank-fresh beer to the heart of

“Czerwony Wieprz” was recommended by The New York Times as the best Polish cuisine restaurant and included in a list of 10 reasons to visit Warsaw.

Czerwony Wieprz Restaurant 68 Żelazna Street, Warsaw Booking: +48 22 850 31 44

Casual | Dining

Wola. As for the food, expect generous portions of Czech classics—soups, dumplings, roast meats—and a laid-back, pub-like atmosphere that’s perfect for families, friends, or a casual pint with your dog. The friendly staff, great drinks, and live sports make it easy to settle in… and hard to leave!QC‑8, ul. Pańska 97, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 516 72 78 69, www. drevnykocur.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. S

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi utensils Polish

You can’t visit the capital of Poland without trying some traditional Polish food, right? Gościniec has just that - hearty soups, plump dumplings, potato pancakes and various cutlets - all prepared ‘as they should be’ and at very reasonable prices. You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d personally recommend the pork chops or cabbage rolls stuffed with meat (known locally as gołąbki: go-womp-ki). The drinks on offer are quite funky (cold/hot options), and it’s all served up by friendly staff wearing folk attire. It may feel very kitsch inside, but the food hits the mark and the portions are immense. Additional locations at ul. Nowy Świat 43 (G-7), and deep in the Old Town at ul. Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14 (F-4).QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www.gosciniec.waw.pl. Open 11:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00 23:30. €€. T­B­6

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem

utensils Polish

With locations on the happening Nowy Świat street and another near the Old Town Square, this veteran Polish restaurant is as simple and traditional as it gets. A good option for tourists, families and anyone looking for their first foray into Polish cuisine, the modestly-priced, bilingual menu includes photos of almost every dish. There is a lot to choice, from classics like pierogi, potato pancakes with goulash and mushroom soup served in a bread bowl, to old school staples that have dropped off most modern menus like tripe soup and chicken livers with fried onions and baked apples. With a tidy, colourful interior and fast service, the experience is easy, accessible and satisfying. Also at ul.Świętojańska 15QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 41, MNowy Świat

Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 428 39 43, www.gospoda. waw.pl. Open 11:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00 23:30. €€. T­B­6

metro bar & bistro

utensils Italian

NEW

Good food in a relaxed atmosphere. This place is simple, tasty and unpretentious with great pizza and pasta and a good wine selection. Ideal for a quick

lunch or an evening with friends. Here you will find classic Italian cuisine, aromatic coffee and drinks inspired by sunny Italy. All in the heart of the city. The finest wines are found here, alongside cocktails (psst: don't miss them between 17:00 and 19:00 every weekday, when cocktails are just 30zł!). Plus, you can catch tons of sports events broadcast on a TV at their venue right in the center of the city. Also, if you’re looking to host an event, reach out! They have a second room just for events.QF‑8, ul. Marszałkowska 99A (Metropol Hotel), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 32 53 106, www.hotelmetropol.com.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. Breakfast: Monday to Friday 6:30 AM to 10:00 AM Weekends 6:30 AM to 11:00 AM. T­U

Nar Restaurant

utensils Mediterranean

Nar Restaurant brings authentic Mediterranean food straight from the sunny, stunning land of Turkiye. The bold flavors really stand out here: light and flavorful mezze dishes with yogurt and marinated eggplant, juicy bites of grilled lamb and vegetables, perfectly seasoned slices of grilled beef.... The list goes on! Plus, this isn’t just a dinner spot: lunches are served here from Monday through Friday between 12:00 and 16:00, and the weekend breakfasts (between 10:00 and 14:00 on Sat and Sun) are amazing and unlike most other breakfast offerings in the city. Think Turkish poached eggs in savory yogurt, zucchini fritters, fried filo pastry sticks and more. Additionally, there are special events on Saturday nights from 19:30, when you can enjoy a special Raki menu alongside some live music which will transport you straight to Turkey!QF‑9, ul. Żurawia 47/49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 451 012 922, www. narrestaurant.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 24:00. €€€. B­6­i

PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino

utensils Mediterranean

An original take on Mediterranean cuisine, with a focus on simplicity that lets the high quality ingredients and expert preparation shine. Plus, the biggest Primitivo wine collection means you can experience the top-shelf wine (with roots in Croatia and Italy) as you enjoy your meal. The dishes themselves as well as many ingredients come from the Mediterranean basin and other ingredients are locally sourced. Chefs focus on 3-ingredient dishes that allow them to highlight the expert preparation and quality food. The restaurant design itself is also a huge attraction. With muted, earthy tones and wood, stone, ceramic and glass elements in the design, Primitivo is reminiscent not only of the earth and the natural world, but

also of some of the most sought-after dining experiences around the globe (this one is for the foodies: the restaurant was modeled after famed Copenhagen restaurant NOMA). Recommended for many occasions, but especially a nice, and relatively affordable, date night.QD‑7, ul. Waliców 13, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 606 444 462, www.primitivo.com.

pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. €€€. T­U­B­6

Setki Powodów

utensils International

A fantastic neighbor of Warsaw’s Polish Vodka Museum, Setki Powodów (Hundreds of Reasons) guarantees live music and an impressive food menu, with plenty of things to nosh on as you listen and enjoy a drink. Setki Powodów offers international cuisine in a comfy street-food style with amazing burgers, pastrami sandwiches and seafood. Relax as you taste delectable dishes, listen to live music, and take in surroundings reminiscent of the Neon Museum (this place is well-lit and beautiful with artistic neon lighting).

Consume as you wish, and enjoy the small-butpunchy live music stage in the corner as you sip on a drink and take some photos in the lovely space. The name means “hundreds of reasons” but there are thousands of reasons to come here.QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 54, www.setkipowodow. pl. Open Tue Thu 12:00 22:00; Fri Sun 12:00 01:00; closed Mon. €€. U­E

U Barssa

utensils Polish

The Old Town is packed with places to eat, but this is one of the few truly great. As you walk from the market square into the elegant dining room, you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege. The signature confit duck with beetroot, fried apples and cranberry sauce, and the sirloin steak with green pepper sauce are just two of the winning dishes on the menu, and we have to mention the outstanding wine list.

In the winter (until mid-Feb) they have a stand in the main square of the Old Town with mulled honey, sausages, pajdy with lard, oscypki (smoked cheese) with cranberry, and warm drinks. In the summer, they also have a huge summer garden, so make sure to keep this on your list when the weather heats up. Call ahead to reserve your space in this charming place. QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 881 69 09 92, www.ubarssa.pl. Open 12:00 22:00. €€€€. X­T­E­6

Fine dining

If you want to splash out on some of Warsaw's finest cuisine, we definitely have you covered - testing the food was our pleasure. Whether you're looking for the right venue to impress a potential client, romantic partner or celebrate any kind of special moment, the following pages will keep you right. Bear in mind that reservations are almost essential in any of these venues.

AleGloria

utensils Polish

Magnificent, enjoyably over-the-top restaurant in the finest part of Warsaw where the strawberrythemed decor appears amazingly at home and where their take on modern Polish cuisine will leave you determined to come back for more. AleGloria is another successful gastronomic venture looked over by the discerning eye of Magda Gessler. Amongst the tantalising dishes with lavish descriptions on the menu, goose meat makes a lot of regular appearances, as well as other eccentric birds like ducks and gamey cuts of venison. Delicious and with a whimsical interior, AleGloria is far from a dim-lit affair. A dining experience here is guaranteed to be absolutely delightful. Highly recommended, of course! Q H‑9, Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, M Centrum, tel. (+48) 22 584 70 80, www.alegloria.pl . Open 13:00 22:00; Sun 13:00 21:00. €€€€. T­U

Belvedere

utensils Polish

Located inside the ‘New Orangery’ in the middle of Łazienki Park, Belvedere is one of Warsaw’s most prestigious and romantic restaurants. Essentially a mid-19th century greenhouse, this spectacular venue features floor-to-ceiling windows and is filled with tropical plants, including an over 100-year-old palm tree. Elegant, intimate table settings are placed amongst the indoor foliage, as well as outside, where peacocks wander the grounds. The food lives up to the first-rate atmosphere, with a concise menu of fresh seafood, meats and seasonal dishes, and a brunch menu is served Sundays. Consistently listed in the Michelin guide for over a decade, a glance at the prices reveals a booking here means something special.QI‑12, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park, entrance from ul. Parkowa), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 606 10 20 02, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 16:30. €€€€. T­B­E

Der Elefant

utensils International

Opened back in 1990, this long-running establishment is spread over various rooms and floors, with a choice of dining experiences. From the street you’ll find their diner-style seafood bar with plenty of fresh fish; alternatively, enter through the courtyard to find a mock shop inside which you’ll see the chefs racing to fill the rapid flow of orders. The concise but diverse menu offers a choice of hot and cold starters (including the recommended Hemingway’s Oyster), burgers, steaks, seafood and some salad and pasta options.

They also have a Mon-Fri lunch offer of soup, entree and dessert for 43zł between 12:00 and 15:00. An attractive layout and prices lower than you would expect considering the location make Der Elefant insanely popular.QE‑5, Pl. Bankowy 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 890 00 10, www.derelefant.pl.

Open 12:00 00:00; Sun 12:00 23:00. €€€.

Elixir by Dom Wódki

utensils International

T­U­E

When we first heard of Elixir we instinctively thought, surely someone has already imagined this? Unbelievably, nobody had - so, top marks to the masterminds behind this classy establishment, which has been running for over a decade!

And it's no wonder they've been at it for so long. Their range of offerings creates the perfect evening experience. At their Vodka Atelier, you can try some 800 vodkas from around Poland and the globe; the range goes from PRL era classics to Polish 'small batch' distillers, designer vodkas, and flavoured vodkas. Also offered are six different types of Młody Ziemniak vodka (made from young potatoes) with varieties dating from 2017 (49zł) to 2022 (25zł). The label of each tells you about the vintage and what the weather and climate were like during its production.

The restaurant itself features stunningly-presented contemporary takes on Polish classics with a unique food and vodka pairing system, which recommends specific vodkas to complement the ingredients and flavours of each dish! Such a system is unrivaled anywhere in Poland and the world at large, so this spot is an Absolut (pardon the pun!) top-spot and a truly unique venue on Warsaw's culinary map.QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 11, www.restauracjaelixir.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€€. T

ul. Waliców 13 +48 606 44 44 62

rezerwacje@primitivo.com.pl

Upscale

InAzia

utensils Asian

Expect elegant dishes bursting with color and adorned with fresh herbs and spices like lemongrass and coriander. Try crispy duck with plum sauce, grilled squid in a green curry, softshell crab with lemongrass, along with other fish, meat and vegetarian dishes. You also get an insight into the process thanks to their Omakase-style dinner. That means a special window that allows you to watch the kitchen in action and chat with the chefs, leading to a perfectly tailored menu. Sleek interiors abound, as do fantastic tasting menus. One of the top Asian restaurants you’ll find in the whole city. For 6 courses expect to pay 450 zł per person or for 9 courses, 550 zł per person (along with a 10% service charge).QH‑9, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Grand Warsaw), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 67 06, www.restauracja inazia.pl. Open 17:00 23:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. U

Klonn

utensils International

Nature, food and art intersect at this lovely restaurant enviably located metres from Ujazdowski Castle. The owners have brought their knack for design to the artsy, elegant interiors, while the outside seating envelops a 200-year-old tree. Head chef Adam Anikiel creates exquisite dishes out of fresh, seasonal ingredients, many of which are designed for sharing. They feature both local flavours and unusual ingredients – oysters, Italian truffles and wagyu beef.

Try gyoza dumplings in mushroom broth, or sturgeon with sea asparagus . there are dishes for children, and the wine list is truly excellent. Honestly, a visit here is so rewarding, it makes a trip to the nearby museums and parks that much more enticing.QH‑11, ul. Jazdów 1B, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 100 63 63, www.klonn.pl. Open 13:00–22:00; Sun 13:00–19:00; closed Mon. €€€. T­B­E­6

Koneser Grill

utensils International

A truly beautiful spot in the heart of Praskie Koneser, this restaurant is rife with good food, good atmosphere and all around good vibes. Working with smoke, aroma and top-quality meats, the expert chefs at this grill use Polish seasoned oak and alder wood to cook up some delicious dishes. Here, you can taste a whole host of different cuts of steak, from rib eye to T-bone (and plenty more), along with non-steak dishes like pasta and delicious appetizers (a cool, refreshing gazpacho is perfect for the summer). All served in a gorgeous spot with low lighting, exposed brick, a fireplace, high ceilings and an all-around elegance at every turn. This is definitely a spot that shines - especially when it comes to steak. QK‑2, Ul. Ząbkowska 29, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 798 18 56 92, www.konesergrillwarszawa.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Sun 12:00 20:00; closed Mon.

Nova Wola

utensils Polish

Garnering the Grand Award (that is, 5 forks) from the prestigious gastronomic list of Poland 100 Best Restaurants, Nova Wola encapsulates the spirit of central-west Warsaw’s restlessly developing, trendsetting Wola district, and absolutely nails the concept of ‘premium casual’ dining. Residing within the luxury Crowne Plaza Hotel (part of the ‘WarsawThe HUB’ complex), complete with an industrial chic interior of polished concrete, dark woods, gold furnishings, lots of glass and big city views, it is here that Nova Wola delivers a decidedly modern take on Polish cuisine.Under Executive Chef Paweł Suchenek’s direction, the menu emphasizes simple plates made with high-quality ingredients sourced from local Polish suppliers and foraged in the wild. Local culinary traditions with contemporary flair offer you a choice of rich soups, premium Polish seasoned beef steaks, fish, and amongst others, a special

seasonal menu, with many of the entrees and even soups available in larger portions ideal for sharing. This upscale approach with a relaxed, sociable atmosphere makes Nova Wola ideal for business, dating or get-togethers. Na zdrowie! Read about Nova Wola’s breakfast on p.88 QC‑8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www.novawola.com. Open 12:30 22:30. Lunch 12:30 p.m. – 4:00 p.m. Dinner 5:00 p.m. – 10:30 p.m. Breakfast

Monday – Friday – 6:30 a.m. – 10:30, Saturday – Sunday 06:30 11:00. €€€. T­U

Rozbrat 20

utensils International

This is one of the few spots in Warsaw recognized with one star for high quality cooking by the Michelin Guide. A fine dining experience of the old school, though the food has a contemporary twist and packs a seriously sophisticated punch. The menu, overseen by co-owner and chef Bartosz Szymczak draws from Polish cuisine and his heritage, but also from British and French cuisine, given that’s what he studied as he was coming up. The result is impressive, with a seasonal menu that changes regularly and always draws on fresh ingredients, prepared delicately and packed with flavor. Choose from a set menu with items like foie gras and bluefish tuna, or indulge in a delicate and gorgeous tasting menu. Make sure to dress up: there's a noshorts, no sportswear dress policy.QI‑9, ul. Rozbrat 20, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 690 12 52 70, www. rozbrat20.com.pl. Open 17:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 16:00 22:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. T­6

U Fukiera

utensils Polish

Warsaw’s oldest and most famous restaurant, with a tradition going all the way back to the 16th century, is truly a must-see. Run under the star stewardship of Magda Gessler (of Polish MasterChef fame), this

enchanting establishment’s interior is a work of art, bedecked with oil paintings and ornate antiques, creating a fantastic ambience. It’s easy to feel like you’re a part of history when dining here, and the guestbook - with such haughty names as Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Fergusonsuggests that indeed you are.

The menu itself is simultaneously classy, traditional and modern, with dishes like chanterelles in a cream sauce, beetroot carpaccio with dill, sirloin with potato dumplings and a pepper sauce, and much much more -- all perfectly prepared, all perfectly Polish. Right on the Old Town Square, enjoy the delicious, gorgeously presented food and soak up the regal atmosphere that has made this spot so beloved(and famous). And don’t forget to document your experience with pictures!QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 99 99 33, www. ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€€. T­6

Wabu Sushi & Japanese Tapas utensils Japanese

Sometimes stiff formality and pretence go hand in hand with fine dining, and though the food may be great, the overall experience can be a bit awkward or even, ugh...tiring. As such, it’s nice to experience exclusive dining in the Japanese Izakaya style (informal eating). Wabu is very much a place for all types of people, from businessmen to couples to tourists and even families, so relax and enjoy. The interior is a minimal and elegantly unfussy gem, that blends in nicely with its modern surroundings on Plac Europejski. The menu is extensive and diverse, and includes a special menu for kids, and a mighty lunch offer (Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, soup and 8 pieces of sushi for 49zł). Simple and elegant, Wabu has our hearty endorsement.QC‑7, Plac Europejski 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 668 92 59 59, www. wabu.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€€. T­U­6

Food Markets

The popularity of street food and fast gastro concepts has led to an explosion of food markets and indoor dining halls in Warsaw, offering dozens of diverse eating options. Not only a place to slay your hunger, these modern food markets are also trendsetting urban social spaces, featuring bars and hosting events.

Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall

From the outside, it’s obvious that this former power station (p.53) has been given a new boost of energy following a major overhaul. Elektrownia also contains a whole host of gastro eateries, bars and event spaces. This central food court allows you to choose anything from fries, hot dogs, dim sum dumplings, kebabs, pizza, sushi, curries, Vietnamese, potatoes, fancy pancakes and San Francisco street food. Additionally, there are several more restaurants in the office buildings opposite! You’re spoilt for choice, so let your mood and budget decide (not easy!). Once you’re done dining, check out their five bars, and also keep a regular eye on their events calendar so you don’t miss hip foodie happenings like their ‘Eko Targ’ (Eco Market), selling GMO-free locally-grown produce. QH‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com

Open 12:00 23:00; Fri 12:00 24:00; Sat 11:00 24:00; Sun 11:00 23:00. U­6

Food Hall Browary

Occupying a large, brick-walled space in the historic Brewery Cellars, this impressive food hall is arguably the social centre of the Browary Warszawskie district (p.30). With 14 different food concepts to choose from - ranging from Tuk Tuk's authentic Thai cuisine to Octo, which offer pasta, pizza, seafood and more. there are plenty of enticing options, including special lunch offers.

The focal points are the impressively long Central Bar - well-stocked with beer, fine wine, and cool cocktails courtesy of legendary local bartender Karim Bibars, and the small stage which hosts DJs, bands and a range of thematic events. Grab a seat at a communal table, a plate of good food, and get socialising. From food to great conversation, drinks and music, this spot has it all. QC‑7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 (Browary Warszawskie), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodhallbrowary.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat, 12:00 02:00. 6T

FOOD TOWN - Fabryka Norblina

Inspired by architectural and culinary trends from all over the world, FOOD TOWN in Fabryka Norblina is ideally situated across five picturesque historic halls, spanning a total area of 3,200 sqm. This unique place, characterised by its stunning period architecture, comes together with a soundtrack of live music and an incredible gastronomic offer that will rouse the palate of every guest that passes through. Food Town at the Norblin Factory is the largest food hall of its kind in Poland, with 24 gastrononomic concepts, taking you on a culinary journey through Europe, the Middle East, Asia and the Americas. Stepping aside from the wild gastronomic offer, you'll also discover tantalising alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages served in five thematic bars. There's also a stunning ambiance with low lighting, indoor and outdoor options and plenty more. The fifth hall of Fabryka Norblina that coexists alongside Food Hall is dedicated to entertainment and cultural events, taking place across the week – live music, stand-ups and exhibitions. Everything is truly going on here, especially if you want to have a perfect night out!.

QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodtown.pl. Open Mon, Tue 08:00 22:00; Wed, Thu 08:00 23:00; Fri 08:00 01:00; Sat 09:00 01:00; Sun 09:00 22:00. Bars are open one hour longer. T­U­6

Hala Koszyki

This historic Art Nouveau market hall originally opened in 1906, but was renovated, redeveloped into a modern mixed-use facility full of bars, restaurants, bookstores and designer boutiques, and reopened in 2016. Smashingly popular, drop in to the ground floor dining area to choose from dozens of diverse options, ranging from top-class independent bistros - like Sobremesa Tapas Bar, Port Royal and Zachodni Brzeg - to some of Warsaw’s top name gastro brands, like Ćma and Warszawski Sen. If you want a variety of casual, tasty food, this is the place to go, with everything from fries to burgers to gelato. But there are fancier options to choose from, too (oysters and pizza are easily found and they are a must). This is one of THE places to be seen in the capital - easily accomplished thanks to the open floor plan - sometimes the place is so packed that mere availability and access dictate which places inside that you’re able to patronage. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall, which also features shops downstairs and space for cultural events upstairs. Beautiful details abound! QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00 01:00. X­T­U­6

Nightlife in Warsaw

In Warsaw you’re never far from a great night out. If the weather’s warm, simply head to the river. Elsewhere skint students patronise the dive bars of The Pavilions (G-7, courtyards of ul. Nowy Świat 22/28); for a more mature alternative crowd seek out the artsy bars across the river in Praga (p.62); for a lark with the lads, hit the party strip on ul. Mazowiecka (F-6/7). In practice, bars will stay open well past their given hours if business is good, but also bolt the doors early if not. Visit our website to refine your search and see more reviews. Na zdrowie (cheers!)!

Food Hall Browary

Multitap Bar

Occupying a large, brick-walled space in the historic Brewery Cellars (Leżakownia), this impressive new food hall is arguably the social centre of the Browary Warszawskie district. With 14 different dining concepts choose fromranging from Silk & Spicy’s authentic Thai cuisine to Dziurka od Klucza’s new panozzo sandwich venture, ‘a’Panu occo?!’ - there are plenty of enticing options, including special breakfast and lunch offers.

The focal points are the impressively long Central Bar - well-stocked with beer, fine wine, and cool cocktails courtesy of legendary local bartender Karim Bibars, and the small stage which hosts DJs, bands and a range of thematic events. Grab a seat at a communal table and get socialising. This is the place to be on a weeknight as well as a weekend.

QC‑7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 (Browary Warszawskie), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www. foodhallbrowary.pl

Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 02:00.

The Roof

Rooftop Cocktail Bar

Perched on the 21st floor of Warsaw - The HUB, with an enchanting outdoor terrace and panoramic views of Warsaw’s city centre, The Roof offers a captivating setting for enjoying drinks, live music, a delightful dinner, or gathering with friends. A truly sky-high experience, the stunning vistas of the city are perfectly complemented by the bar offer, which invites visitors to explore the exciting and diverse selection of cocktails, and unique concoctions that have been curated to reflect the extraordinary essence of Warsaw’s skyline and capture the spirit of the city in every sip. The sights are further enhanced by a range of acoustic performances and intimate cultural events that are hosted here, creating an ambience that fosters both relaxation and engagement. No matter what kind of night you seek, this is one place in Warsaw you need to experience!

QC‑8, ul. Rondo Daszyńskiego 2 (Crowne Plaza Hotel), MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. +48 881 97 41 44, www.theroofskybar.com.

Open 18:00 24:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 01:00. €€€. U­E

Bars & Clubs

cocktail connoisseurs, unite! The Roots serves up some of the most elegant cocktails in the city.

3/4 Koneser Bar

Cocktail Bar

If you’re eager to experience Polish vodka the right way (sip, don’t shoot!), go straight to the source. Located on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum (p.64), this spectacular bar makes dozens of their own artisanal alcohol infusions - raspberry with rosemary, horseradish, or mango lassi are just a few of their surprising and constantly changing flavours. The current concept is based on the sense of touch and sight, fabrics, colours and texture. The lovely seasonal terrace offers great views of the heart of Praga and you can also try a premium whisky tasting from The Secret Speyside Collection. Na zdrowie!QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 52, www.koneserbar.pl. Open 16:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 15:00 01:00; Sun 15:00 22:00; closed Mon, Tue. Subject to change. €€. U­B­6

Symbol Key

C-1 Map Coordinate

Metro

HighGarden Rooftop Lounge

Rooftop Cocktail Bar

Located atop the highest building in the EU, and the tallest skyscraper in Poland, right in the heart of the city, is HighGarden Rooftop Lounge, a bar with soul and flavors and excellent cocktails right in the middle of the sky. Known as the highest cocktail bar in the EU, this place is found on the 49th floor of the VARSO Tower and offers some spectacular views as you sip your drinks. The ambiance is top-notch: a green oasis of plants, and a real garden suspended in the clouds with direct access to an observation deck. This spot is known for signature cocktails and wide range of mocktails along with a menu of great snacks inpsired by local flavors. It’s truly elegant and considered “a nightlife spot with a soul.” QE‑8, Varso Tower, Chmielna 69, MRondo ONZ, www. highlinewarsaw.com/. Open 10:00 00:00. €€. G­U­

Klar

Cocktail Bar

The ultimate cocktail bar experience! At Klar you can find a range of delightful cocktails -- many made from seasonal ingredients! That's because Klar pairs their drinks with the seasons and even makes their own infused vodka from local, seasonal fruits and vegetables. They truly believe in working with natural products and pushing the bounds of creativity in cocktails. Get a flight of their own home-infused drinks, or stick to one of the standard cocktails, all done with flair and photogenic presentation. Their speakeasy vibe makes it especially cozy, with low lighting and gold-lined mirrors and tables. They have a great menu, too, with light bites like thin crust pizzas and more. All in all, a great place to catch up with friends over a cocktail in a chic part of town. Outside in the summer, you'll find cozy couches and excellent live music. QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 41, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 889 69 94 99, https://klarcocktailbar.com/. Open Thu 15:00 00:00; Fri 15:00 1:00; Sat 14:00 01:00; Sun 12:00 00:00. Closed Mon Wed. B­E­

Kufle i Kapsle

Cocktail Bar

The name ‘Kufle i Kapsle’ means ‘Beer Mugs and Bottlecaps’ and the interior is a perfect blend of European traditional bar design mingling with Polish features, such as the large tiled heater in the back room. 20 taps are on offer and the bottled beer selection has more variety than a Glaswegian glass recycling bin! An interesting selection of bar snacks are also available. In contrast to many other local bars, expect it to be packed and buzzing from around 17:00 (online reservations possible). 2nd location nearby at ul. Nowy Świat 27 (G-7).QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 25, MCentrum, www.kufleikapsle.pl Open 15:00 02:00; Sat, Sun 14:00 02:00. €€. B­6

MOXO

Club

Part cocktail bar, part music club, part delicious restaurant, MOXO is a unique concept right in the center of Warsaw at Fabryka Norblina. The kitchen is itameshi — a fusion of Japanese precision and Italian comfort. The menu blends sushi and Japanese techniques with Italian-inspired dishes, bold flavors and plates designed for sharing. At the bar, find contemporary cocktails with a creative edge, expertly crafted to the general atmosphere and vibe of the space. You’ll find that everything flows easily from dinner to a late night out on the town. And then there’s the events! With Poland’s largest LED screen, a cutting-edge sound system and

Bars & Clubs | Nightlife

amazing musical events in the large, industrialstyle space, MOXO offers a night you won’t forget, especially when it turns into a unique music club every night after dinner.Qul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 726 62 76 27, www.moxo.pl. Open 12:00 01:00; Fri 12:00 03:00; Sat 16:00–03:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€. X­U­B­E

Pepper Events Club

Making its presence known in the Polish capital’s urban jungle, the anomaly that is Pepper Events adds an exotic flair to the higher-class venues of Warsaw. The unique, sophisticated space includes both a euphoric club scene and a restaurant with an indulgent food menu. That’s all amplified with a stunning year-round garden and cocktail bar of the highest calibre, making it an ideal space for an intimate business meeting, a banquet, a product presentation, a large corporate event or even bachelor/bachelorette parties.QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 06 80 68, www. pepperevents.pl. Open 12:00 24:00. €€€. X­B­E­6

Piano Bar Warsaw Club

With a classy, elegant atmosphere and an eye for calm entertainment, Piano Bar Warsaw has really blown us away! Located right in Fabryka Norblina, this spot effortlessly blends lovely piano music with fresh cocktails, great food and quiet conversation. The historic building that houses the Piano Bar has been thoughtfully adapted to provide unforgettable musical experiences in every corner. Whether you immerse yourself in the atmosphere on the ground floor, enjoy the sounds on the first-floor mezzanine, walk up the staircase, relax in the garden or discover a secluded spot, you will experience the full range of musical sensations.Plus, the menu is serves as a great complement to the music. Signature cocktails, prepared by experienced bartenders, take mixology to a whole new level with top-tier ingredients and unique tastes. The wine list is, similarly excellent with a wide range of glasses from all over the world. When it comes to the food menu, you’ll find dishes also from around the world. Many are perfect for sharing in a group while you listen to music, or enjoying as a snack by yourself. Of course they don’t stop there. The Piano Bar Warsaw can be host to excellent private events with original menus and custom-made cocktails for an unforgettable party.QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. +48 533 44 48 88, www.pianobar.com.pl/ Open 17:30 01:00; Thu 17:30 2:00; Fri 17:30 04:00; Sat: 17:00 4:00; Sun 17:00 00:00; closed Mon. €€. B­E

SEN Club

If you’ve come to SEN (PL for ‘dream’) to enjoy the restaurant (18:00-01:00), we give you a humble nod for making a solid choice -- their modern menu created by chef Alon Than is a delight. And it pairs well with the original cocktails, which are some of the best in the city! Although not huge, the panoramic backdrop (the National Stadium and the Poniatowski Bridge can be seen from this spot) pairs up perfectly with the lounge vibe. There is a door selection, so dress to impress, and don’t be put off - the staff do their best to maintain the unique and positive character inside, which just adds to your enjoyment. The music’s great and the bar is well stocked, what’s not to enjoy? If you stay until the end, you may very well agree with the venue’s tag line: it was all a dream.

QJ‑7, ul. Wioślarska 6, MCentrum Nauki Kopernika, tel. (+48) 883 02 50 25, www.senwarsaw.pl. Open 19:00 06:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. DINNER & COCKTAILS 19:00 23:00 NIGHTLIFE 23:00 06:00. €€€.

X­E

The ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more Cocktail Bar

While the cocktail revolution continues to shake and stir up Warsaw’s drinking habits, some places manage to stand out from the crowd. The ROOTS has, without a doubt, secured a very special place in the hearts of serious cocktail devotees, both local and international.

For starters, the bar is a shrine to the noble art of being a barman/mixologist, meaning you should definitely check out their intriguing collection of vintage and antique ‘tools of the trade’ – the collection of mixers alone already stands at nearly 100 items! Add to this a library of antiquarian books on the subject of bartending/cocktail mixing and you know you are dealing with some hardcore and very scholarly mixologists. The ROOTS is so well-versed in the art of making cocktails, they have enough tricks for two great menus - one featuring classics of the trade and another which presents signature drinks based on seasonal regional flavours. Make sure you scrutinise both and ask for a recommendation at the bar. Food is also available in the form of a Polish fusion menu, which is intriguing enough to at least take a peak at. Quite brilliant for a treat-yourself visit, a date night, or even a friend gathering! Highly recommended.QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 660 333 983, www.theroots.pl. Open 17:00 24:00; Fri 17:00 02:00; Sat 14:00 02:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€. 6

Shopping in Warsaw

Warsaw offers a wide diversity of shopping experiences, from old school markets to luxury boutiques (primarily along ul. Nowy Świat and ul. Mokotowska: G-7, H-8/9) to some of Central Europe’s most modern shopping malls. For visitors, it’s an opportunity to shop exclusive designer brands, catch bargains on known commodities or find forgotten treasures. Happy hunting!

Amber & Jewellery

Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line

This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of the largest and oldest amber dealer in the city, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origincertified by the International Amber Association. Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line Even heads of State and royalty have been spotted procuring presents here, from Bill Clinton to Japanese princesses (whose thank you letters you can see inside)! Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other precious stones.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 69 61, www.warsawamber.pl. Open 10:00 19:00; Sun 10:00 17:00.

Lilou

A phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components to create a unique and personalised piece. The range continues to grow, with the original luxury charm bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes, then have it hand-engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘must-have’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas. Also at ul. Francuska 27 (L-7), Westfield Arkadia (B/C-2), Westfield Mokotów, Sadyba Best Mall and Centrum Handlowe Janki.QH‑9, ul. Mokotowska 63, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 506 19 08 97, www.lilou.pl. Open 11:00 19:00; Sat 11:00 18:00; Sun 11:00 16:00*.

Fashion & Accessories

Le Szapo Hat Shop

This classy hat boutique (whose name is a Polish phonetic pronunciation of the French ‘le chapeau’) brings French flair to Warsaw, offering a range of hats from Panama to fedoras, berets, straw hats and much much more. The brands are primarily from Poland and Italy, but now include their own Le Szapo label headpieces designed right here in Kraków (congrats!). With a retro urbane atmosphere and warm living room vibe created by the welcoming staff, who will gladly help you find the perfect headpiece, you’re sure to leave looking more dapper than you arrived. In case you don’t want to travel with a hatbox, all their stylish stock can also be ordered online.QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 66, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 577 285 007, www.leszapo.com. Open 11:00 20:00.

Gifts & Souvenirs

HELLO! GIFT SHOP

Find a huge range of products that are perfect to take home for friends and family -- and oh-so-Polish! Roam into the Warsaw Old Town to find these three delightful shops, which sell gifts made in Poland and recalling Polish history and tradition.

Find a huge range of products with colorful folk patterns, Polish ceramics and porcelain, even models of Polish cars, T-shirts with fashionable prints, and all kinds of gifts sporting various Warsaw symbols. This is the ultimate place to stop for presents for your loved ones -- you can find something for everyone here (and all of it is incredibly Polish). Check out their second location on ul. Freta 26/28 and their third on ul. Freta 11.QF‑4, Piwna 17/19, MRatusz Arsenal.

Open 10:00 20:00; Fri, Sat 10:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 21:00.

Beauty & Skincare

Dr. Hauschka

Showroom NEW

This new showroom that opened up in December is one of only five Dr. Hauschka showrooms across the globe! And as such, it’s worth taking advantage of the great location. This international (and internationally renowned) skincare brand offers 100% natural products to plump, revive, mosturize and envigorate the skin. But it goes way beyond that in this showroom -- they’re creating a full-blown wellness experience, with makeup and lifestyle workshops, as well as a plan to offer massage treatments in the summer. Plus, the experience of shopping here is incredible in itself -- the place is bright and aromatic, with a deeply tranquil feel. Munch on some cookies or sip coffee or sparkling water as a skincare expert walks you through the best routine personalized for your unique skin. Also -there’s a great array of makeup offerings! For anyone even remotely interested in wellness and skincare, this stop is a must. Treat yourself to one of their 170 products, a free consultation, and advice and leave feeling so much better. QZygmunta Krasińskiego 27, MPlac Wilsona, tel. +48 888 757 677, www. drhauschka.pl. Open 12:00 18:00; Sat 11:00 15:00. Closed Sun

Shopping Malls

Designer Outlet Warszawa

Set inside an impressive collection of buildings evoking the Baroque style of Warsaw’s Old Town, this is a premium outlet mall, with the interior that makes you feel like you’re walking through a fashion high street. Here you’ll find discounts ranging from

Shopping

30-70% off on brands like Adidas, Boggi Milano, Boss, Calvin Klein, Coccinelle, GAP, Guess, Furla, Karl Lagerfeld, Levi’s, Liu Jo, Longines, Luisa Spagnoli, Michael Kors, Nike, Pinko, Polo Ralph Lauren, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and more. Just 30mins from the city centre and 20mins from Chopin Airport, it’s easily reached by car and public transport (use a zone 2 ticket and get off at ‘Energetyczna 01’).Qul. Puławska 42E (Piaseczno), MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 22 737 31 15, www.designeroutletwarszawa.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 21:00*.

Elektrownia Powiśle

When Elektrownia Powiśle (p.53) opened, we can only say we were impressed. The exterior doesn’t look all too big, but once inside you realise it’s much bigger than you’d ever expect! So what’s here? Imagine this as a multifunctional centre, including sooped up shops completely new to Poland (nay, in Central and Eastern Europe even!) such as Urban Outfitters, True Color, Weekday, COS, Elementy, Balagan, Galilu, (to name a few), plenty more boutiques, beauty salons, a top floor event space, as well as their awesome gastro and nightlife offer (p.98). You can shop until you drop, then pick yourself up with some great food, all the while being delighted with the look and feel of the place too.

QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com.

Elektrownia open Mon Sun 11:00 21:00 Food Hall open Mon Thu 12:00 23:00, Fri 12:00 24:00, Sat 11:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 23:00 Beauty Hall open Mon Sat 08:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 19:00.

FACTORY Outlet Annopol

This massive outlet mall is closer than you think! Save up to 70% on premium name brands like Adidas, Nike, Ecco, Medicine, Guess, Under Armour, Pepe Jeans, Converse, Vans, Puma, Tefal, Tommy Hilfiger, Smyk, 4F, RTV Euro AGD and more.

FACTORY Outlet Annopol The options here are nearly endless and you can find amazing premium wear for such a low price that it’s going to be hard to rationalize NOT buying everything. Plus, you can find food and cafe options here so it’s really a spend-allday or shop-till-you-drop kind of experience. To get there take Metro M2 from ‘Świętokrzyska’ to ‘Bródno’ and then change to tram no. 1, 3, 4 or 25 and get off at ‘Toruńska’ or ‘Annopol’. Check jakdojade.pl for live timetables. If you want to drive (and bring your electric car), you’re in luck! They have a special charging station for electric vehicles. Qul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka), tel. (+48) 22 441 90 00, www. annopol.factory.pl. Open 10:00 21:00; Sun 10:00 20:00*.

FACTORY Outlet Ursus

This outlet shopping mall southwest of the city centre is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over regular rack rates, all in a gorgeous, sun-drenched spot!

FACTORY Outlet Ursus Recognisable brands include Tommy Hilfiger, Marc’o Polo, BOSS, Nike, Adidas, Guess, Calvin Klein, New Balance, Calzedonia, Lindt, Haribo, Tefal, Ochnik, Wittchen, and many more. And, it needs repeating, these are all at a discount. So you can shop premium clothing, jewelry and more for way less than the normal price!

One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, you can get there quickly by car via the S8 route or Nowolazurowa street. You can also reach it about 30mins by train or bus; check jakdojade.pl for accurate, up-to-the-minute connections.QPl. Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www. ursus.factory.pl. Open 10:00 21:00; Sun 10:00 20:00*.

Złote Tarasy

There is plenty of great shopping to be had in and around Warsaw, and Złote Tarasy, seated next to the central train station, is no exception with great stores Even if you’re not in the mood to shop, it’s a good idea to check out the space, which has a 10,000m glass dome fitted with a special mechanism to both filter sunrays and stop snow from building up. Even if you're not an architecture person, it's worth a visit. With multiple levels and a quick undergound tunnel to the train station, it couldn't be more convenient. Plus, you'll find everything here clothes, accessories, books, home goods, makeup, and tons of food to fuel up as you shop around. Recommended!QE‑8, ul. Złota 59, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 222 22 00, www. zlotetarasy.pl. Open 09:00 22:00; Sun 09:00 21:00.

*Sunday Shopping in PL

In its effort to get people out of shopping malls and into churches, the Polish government has imposed regulations preventing most businesses from opening their doors on Sundays. Of course, there are exceptions, including 7 special Sundays when shops are open each year, and the rules don’t apply to restaurants, bars, cafes, pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets, souvenir shops and anywhere the business owner is personally working behind the counter. When you see an asterisk* after the Sunday hours in our guide, that means the venue is closed on Sundays.

Upcoming shopping Sundays: March 29

Venue Index

Print space is finite, but the internet is a vast, vacuous void we’ve devoted our lives to filling. If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed here, you’ll likely find it amongst the hundreds of places in Warsaw listed on our website: warsaw.inyourpocket.com

3/4 Koneser Bar 102

Adam Mickiewicz Monument 47

Agnieszka Osiecka Monument 64

AleGloria 94

Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line 107

Anielewicz Bunker 77

Asia & Pacific Museum 72

Beauty Hall 82

Beef n’ Pepper 90

Beer&Wine SPA 82

Belvedere 94

Belvedere Palace 57

Botanical Garden 59

Branicki & Szaniawski Palaces 40

Bristol & Europejski Hotels 49

Browary Warszawskie 30

Bułkę przez Bibułkę 88

Centrum Praskie Koneser 63

Choose Your Adventure! 50

Chopin Benches 49

Chopin Monument 57

Ciao Napoli 90

Copernicus Science Centre 54

Cucina Mia 91

Czerwony Wieprz 91

Der Elefant 95

Designer Outlet Warszawa 107

Drevny Kocur 91

Dr. Hauschka Showroom 19, 83, 107

Elektrownia Powiśle 53, 108

Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall 98

Elixir by Dom Wódki 95

E. Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum 84

E.Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum 72

Fabryka Norblina 31

Fabryka Norblina Museum 72

Factory Family Salon 83

FACTORY Outlet Annopol 108

FACTORY Outlet Ursus 108

Food Hall Browary 98, 101

FOOD TOWN - Fabryka Norblina 99

Gnojna Góra 44

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi 92

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem 92

Hala Koszyki 17, 35, 99

HELLO! GIFT SHOP 107

HighGarden Rooftop Lounge 102

Highline Warsaw 81

Highline Warsaw (VARSO Tower) 35

Holy Cross Church 50

InAzia 96

Invisible Exhibition 74

Jan Kiliński Monument 40

Jewish Historical Institute 77

King Sigismund's Column 46

Kładka na Wiśle (Footbridge) 55

Klar 103

Klonn 96

Koneser Grill 96

Kufle i Kapsle 103 KUK

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw 74

Museum of Printing 63

Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch 43

Museum World of Illusion 80

Myślewicki Palace 58

Nar Restaurant 92

Nicolaus Copernicus Monument 50

Nova Wola 88, 96

Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery 77

Old Orangery 58

Old Town Defensive Ramparts 41

Old Town Heritage

Interpretation Centre 43

Old Town Square 42

Palace of Culture & Science 27

Palace on the Isle 58

Pasaż Wiecha 32

PaTaThai Powiśle 92

Pepper Events 104

PGE National Stadium 64

Pharmacy Museum 74

Piano Bar Warsaw 104

Plac Defilad 32

Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire 30

Plac Grzybowski 31

Plac Konstytucji 33

Plac Pięciu Rogów & ul. Chmielna 33

Plac Piłsudskiego 30

Plac Zamkowy 39

Plac Zbawiciela 34

Planetarium of the Copernicus Science Centre 54

POLIN Museum 77

Polish Vodka Museum 64, 74

Potocki Mausoleum 61

Powiśle Mermaid Statue 52

Praga Museum of Warsaw 63

Presidential Palace 48

PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino 92

Royal Castle 40

Rozbrat 20 97

Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska 64

Saxon Garden

SEN 104

Setki Powodów

Skaryszewski Park

Smart Kids Planet 80,

Stacja Caffe

Stacja Grawitacja

St. Anne's Church

St. Anne's Church & Tower

St. John the Baptist Cathedral

The Cool Cat

The Little Insurgent Monument

The Roof 101

The ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more 104

The University of Warsaw To Lubię

Traficar Car Share

U Barssa

U Fukiera

Ul. Kanonia

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście

ul. Nowy Świat

ul. Ząbkowska

Vistula River Boulevards

Vodka Museum

Warsaw Arcade Museum 81, Warsaw Barbican

Warsaw National Museum

Warsaw Photoplasticon

Warsaw Rising Museum

Warsaw University of Technology 34

WawaBus 25

Wilanów Lake & Island 61

Wilanów Palace Museum 60

Wilanów Park & Gardens 60

Yes Butcher! Shop & Bistro (Saska Kępa) 87

Złote Tarasy 108

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