Warsaw In Your Pocket City Guide_ April -May 2026

No. 145, April–May 2026

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Warsaw

Welcome to Warsaw

A bustling metropolis at any time of year, there’s plenty to do in Warsaw.

Located on the Vistula River at the very crossroads of Central Europe, Warsaw is the 7th most populous city in the European Union (1.8 million people) and a major cultural, political and economic hub.

The city has had a troubled history ever since King Sigismund III Vasa moved his royal court from Kraków, making Warsaw the new Polish capital in 1569. Pillaged by the Swedes in the 17th century, and occupied by Russia for most of the 19th century, Poland was off the map for 123 years before returning in the aftermath of WWI. The interwar period signalled a golden age for Warsaw, as the city developed on par with other great European capitals.

WWII brought new suffering, however. Occupied by Nazi Germany, Warsaw saw its cultural monuments defiled or stolen, and its Jewish population of 350,000 systematically exterminated. With liberation in sight, the Polish population rose up against their German occupiers in August 1944, only for Soviet forces to look on as the Nazis brutally crushed the Uprising and destroyed the city in reprisal. When the fires were extinguished, 150,000 more civilians were dead and German occupation had merely been traded for Soviet oppression, as Poland was pinned under Moscow’s influence for the next four decades, during which Warsaw was rebuilt in communist fashion, earning a reputation as a charmless city of concrete.

But that was then, this is now. A compelling blend of East and West, past and future, today’s Warsaw is a modern metropolis of complex character and rich rewards for those who get to know it. Gone are the gloomy images of yesteryear as the city restlessly evolves, buzzing with energy and optimism. Whether you’re here to explore trendsetting urban culture or UNESCO treasures, world-class dining or luxury boutiques, you’ll hardly be disappointed by all the modern capital has to offer. Enjoy Warsaw!

How to Use This Guide

Warsaw In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all of the ideas, tools and information you need to explore the city on your own, stay offline as much as possible, and really connect with the city you’re visiting.

Over here at IYP we still believe that the best way to understand the space you’re in is with a map, and the most immersive way to explore it is on foot. As such, our Sightseeing chapter is organised into geographic areas of interest with detailed district maps to help you navigate them. Selfguided district tours include descriptions of all the most important sites, plus local tips on where to eat and drink in each area. There are also intriguing ‘Crossroads’ moments that allow you to be lured towards alternative adventures, either on foot or via public transport.

Throughout the guide, page references are liberally used to lead you to related info on a topic elsewhere in the guide, while QR codes will take you to our website when we feel there’s more to know than can be expressed in print. Each venue listing includes a map coordinate (E-8, for example) that correlates to the city map on p.2-3. If there’s a specific venue you’re searching for, use the Venue Index in the back of the guide to quickly find it, or simply follow our informed suggestions.

Cover Story

Warsaw’s Old Town Market Square (rynek), which is lined with boutiques, restaurants and cafes, and the popular Museum of Warsaw. A great spot to enjoy the sun! Photo reuerendo/Adobestock

Publisher & Staff

IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com

Circulation

12,000 copies published every 2 months

Warsaw IYP Online

Of course, space in our print guide is a finite resource, but if you don’t find what you’re searching for here, we’re confident you’ll find it on our website. Visit warsaw.inyourpocket.com for more info about the capital, and poland.inyourpocket.com to see just how much of the country we cover.

Here is some extra content we wish we had room for in print this issue:

A Brief History of Warsaw

It's one thing to take in the city by foot, tram, or bike and marvel at all the sights. But in order to really understand the capital, you'll need the full history. Lucklily, we've got you covered with a beginner's guide to Warsaw!

Take a Day Trip!

When you've done everything in the city this spring, here's where you want to go: the cutest, coolest and most historic sites near Warsaw.

Rainy Day Polish Movies

While spring has a lot of sun it also has plenty of rain. And what better to do on a cozy day in than take in some of Poland's best cinema? These Polish movies have all made waves for their acting, directing, and overall incredible storytelling.

Editor: Anna Merriman

Sales Consultant: Jarek Śliwiński (+48) 606 749 643

Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494

Research: Natalia Rodacka, Stanislaw Hołubowski

Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman

Copyright Notice

All content copyright IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o Sp.k. and its partners, unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

Signs of Spring Warsaw’s Best Parks & Seasonal Markets

Skaryszewski is one of the best places to take in the new

After a sort of societal hibernation, suddenly flowers are out, beer gardens are opening up, people are gathering on plazas and sipping classes of prosecco outside cafes. This all only means one thing: Spring is finally, thankfully, here!

For many Poles, spring is the ultimate time of year, partly because the winters are so tough, but also because the springs are just that gorgeous. So, while it’s certainly a great time to travel, but it’s an even better time to experience the blooming world of Warsaw!

Sip a coffee at a cafe

Yes, we know that Kraków is renowned for its cafe culture, but in our opinion, Warsaw is really where it’s at for coffee! All friendly rivalry aside, Warsaw really does have some great cafes. If you’re in the Old Town, check out To Lubię (p.93), which offers tasty pastries and cappuccinos in a medieval-esq space (fitting that it’s in the Old Town!)

Or travel a little south and go to Slodki Slony (G-10), which abounds with colorful decor and delicious

pastries, cakes and more, all packed into a small cafe bursting with floral designs (bringing the spring vibes inside). For outdoor seating, look no further than Francuska 30 on ul. Francuska in Saska Kępa (p.66). Affectionately known as “the umbrella cafe” for their canopy of colorful umbrella decorations, this is also packed with tons and tons of outdoor seating, and the combo of sun, coffee and a tasty goat cheese pastry couldn’t be better.

Take in some Urban Parks & Greenery

The 2018 Travelbird Green Cities Index ranked Warsaw as the 12th greenest city in the world, while the Husqvarna Urban Green Space Index ranks Warsaw 18th out of 171 European cities; the only

cities of over 1 million inhabitants that did better were Prague, Hamburg and Munich. With 51% of the city covered in greenery for an average of 134.4m2 of green space per resident, Warsaw well exceeds the likes of New York City (19m2) or Paris (a pathetic 9.8m2), despite the two metropolises having iconic urban parks. Though they may not be as famous, Warsaw is home to its share of iconic parks as well, so let’s take a look at the best places in the capital to celebrate spring, and do some sightseeing while we’re at it.

Łazienki Park

Where else would we start? Łazienki (p.58) is not only Warsaw’s most famous park, but also its largest at 76ha, and right in the city centre. This glorious green space is not only home to peacocks and adorable red squirrels, but is also packed with 18th century palaces, monuments and royal art collections. In fact, the lush, hilly premises are a bit of an architectural scavenger hunt where you can find Warsaw’s oldest theatre, a Greek temple, Egyptian temple, Chinese Garden, and much more. Beginning in spring, locals flock to Łazienki with blankets and picnic baskets and in May be sure to hear free open-air piano concerts under the park’s famous Chopin monument every Sunday at 12:00.

Saxon Garden

Located just off the Royal Route (p.30), this historic 15.5ha park is the oldest in the city, and became one of the first public parks in the world when it opened to everyone in 1727. At that time it was a Baroque Park in the French-style with the grandiose Saxon

Palace playing a role very similar to the Palace of Versailles in Paris’ famous park. Like Łazienki, the park also included several other palaces and pavilions, all of which were sadly obliterated by the Nazis during WWII and never rebuilt. Despite this absence, Saxon Garden today is one of Warsaw’s best urban retreats, offering an antidote to the capital’s urban din, plenty of shade, lots of benches and more than a few points of interest.

Foremost among the latter is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier - the only surviving remnant of Saxon Palace and once part of its lower colonnade. Here the ashes of unidentified soldiers who died for the Polish cause are interred and an eternal flame is kept lit and guarded by stone-faced soldiers. If you enjoy a bit of military theatre, you can watch the official changing of the guard every hour, on the hour, 365 days a year.

More impressive (in our opinion) is the large fountain located just behind the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Created in 1855 by renowned Warsaw architect Henryk Marconi, this fountain is and was the centrepiece of the gardens, the alleys of which are lined with blooming flowers, ancient trees (many of which survived the war) and neoclassical sculptures. QF-6.

As the weather warms up, the Night Market is one of Warsaw’s best hotspots.

Skaryszewski Park

Time for a ride across the river, to a place few tourists tend to tread. Shame that, as Skaryszewski Park (p.66) was ranked by self-proclaimed park experts Briggs & Stratton as Poland’s most beautiful urban park in 2009; in fact, it placed third on the entire continent. We’ll defer to their expertise, as it is a fine park indeed, full of wide tree-lined alleys, man-made hills, handsome statuary, landscaped flowerbeds, charming bridges, waterfalls and picturesque lakes where you can rent kayaks and pedalboats. The right bank’s largest green space at 58ha, there may not be any palaces, but it does boast its own amphitheatre and is absolutely loaded with monuments, most notably a bust of famous pianist, patriot and politician Ignacy Jan Paderewski at the park’s entrance. Other monuments include a memorial to the Polish victims of the September 11 attacks, and another commemorating British pilots whose B-24 Liberator was shot down here in August 1944 while delivering supplies to the Polish resistance during the Warsaw Uprising.

If you’re not that keen on monuments, that’s fine, too, as this park is known as the chiller cousin of Łazienki, meaning you will find many people lying in the grass, reading books, having picnics, sipping some wine or coffee and enjoying the sunlight here. Located next to the popular district of Saska Kępa, the southwest corner of the park leads right to the neighbourhood’s trendy high street, ul. Francuska (p.66), where you’ll find plenty of hip cafes and restaurants, as well as some of the best ice cream in the city. Fans of modernist architecture and charming villas are encouraged to explore this affluent but artsy area.

Outdoor Food Fairs

The arrival of warmer weather is also the signal for Warsaw’s outstanding open-air food markets to resume operations. An increasingly popular urban trend, these hip gastro markets are as much about socialising as they are about shopping for local food products or filling your belly, and definitely worth checking out if you’re brave enough to go beyond the centre of town. If you’re here ahead of the season or the weather’s rubbish, you can (and should) always check out one of the city’s plentiful indoor food halls as well (p.102).

Breakfast Market

They say it’s the most important meal of the day, but in Warsaw it’s also a cultural experience. We’re talking about the Breakfast Market (Targ Śniadaniowy, p.93), which offers foodies a range of delicious day starters from dozens of local food producers, farms, restaurants and catering companies. Taking place in neighbourhood parks, mingle with locals, explore new parts of town and get your grub on by creating a picnic spread from the fresh foods on sale here, or choose from an array of ready-to-eat meals from local producers as well. A highly social event, the Breakfast Market caters to families by organising events for kids and other attractions. Best of all, you don’t have to get there early. Occurring on weekends beginning from April 11th in the leafy Żoliborz area and Mokotów. Qwww.targsniadaniowy.pl

Nocny Market

If family-friendly isn’t your vibe, Warsaw’s legendary Nocny Market (Night Market) may be more to your taste. Occupying an abandoned railway platform, Nocny Market aims for the atmosphere of a Beijing street market and the vibe of a Berlin club to create a cult Warsaw institution. The largest street food market in PL, this is a full-on feast for the senses where you’re guided by colourful neon lights, tantalising smells assault your nose as you wander from stall to stall, live bands and DJs set the mood, and intoxicating drinks pour forth from the fully stocked bars. If you really want an experience you can’t forget you can even get a tattoo here. With a huge diversity of culinary offerings from around the world, this is definitely one of Warsaw’s coolest places to eat, drink and chill when the weather’s warm. Though the opening date hasn’t been announced yet, it typically starts in early May. To get there take a tram to ‘Pl. Zawiszy’ and walk towards ‘Warszawa Główna’ train station. Alternatively, take the Metro to ‘Rondo Daszyńskiego’ and walk the short distance. Use warsaw.jakdojade.pl for live transit connections. QC-9, ul. Towarowa 3, fb.com/nocnymarket.

Signs of Spring | On the Town

Enjoy the Greenery

As the sun hits and the weather warms, you're likely to see so many more people out and and about -- not just lounging at cafes or food markets, but also out in nature. The hiking and biking trails around Warsaw are just starting to get beautiful this time of year and it's worth taking a break from eating and drinking to go wandering and riding in the sun. If biking is your thing, then we highly recommend getting a city bike. Veturilo is the city bike system and they have stations all over the city. More on p.25

Traverse the East

Whether you choose walking or biking, we recommend starting at the Poniatowski Bridge (J-7). If you start on the east side and walk below the bridge, you'll run into a walking and biking trail that runs north to south. Pick your poison!

Do you want to go north? Then head along the dirt trail, which winds through tons of trees and runs along the beach of the Vistula River, with gorgeous views of the center and the Old Town (p.38) along the way. If you keep moving, you'll reach the pedestrian and bicycle footbridge (p.57) which takes you across the river, into Powiśle (p.54).

Do you want to go south? Get prepared for a quieter, less-trafficked ride, with lots and lots of greenery. There are fewer sights to see across the river, but you feel like you're in the countryside as you take this

route, with lots of green grass and plenty of trees for shade. These are some of the quieter areas of the city for those who want a break from the major metropolitan center

Roam the West

One of the best spots on the west side of the river is Pole Mokotowskie (Mokotów Fields) , the (somewhat unsung) hero of Warsaw's park scene. This sprawling park is rife with winding paths, ponds, wildlife, fields, and just tons to see. This spot is one of the best in the entire city because of just how stunning it is. We recommend starting off Żwirki I Wigury (C-12) (for travellers, you may know this as the route from the airport into town) and heading straight into the park, using the walking path of Ryszard Kapuściński.

Another must is located just north of the city : an hour's ride away by bus, is one of the gems of this area: Kampinos National Park. This takes the term "sprawling" to a whole new level. It's almost like leaving the city and being immediately transported to the middle of a major European forest. Starting at the parking lot (Rękopis 43a), which is the easiest entrance to get to from the heart of the city, head immediately onto the well-marked path. You'll find incredibly well-maintained trails that wind through gorgeous, spindly trees.

Whether eating, drinking, biking or walking, spring is the time to be out in Warsaw, enjoying the longawaited sunlight (grey skies be gone!)

The Museum of Warsaw The

City’s History in 90 Years

Warsaw’s history is rife with triumph and setback, with loss and resilience, especially over the last century. And what better way to learn about all that history than with an institution that literally lived through it?

The Museum of Warsaw is its own breathing, thriving, life in a way. Now celebrating its 90th anniversary, this “soul of Warsaw” is a triumph of the Warsaw spirit and one you have to see – especially this year.

A Must-Visit Space

There are many reasons to visit this museum, starting with their permanent exhibit, “Warsaw Things”, the most extensive exhibition of the city’s history you’ll find. Here, you can explore twenty-two thematic rooms that showcase items from Warsaw’s history – all original, from art to everyday objects.

Learn specific information about the city, its inhabitants and its urban arrangement from the “Warsaw Data” section. Get an insight into the history of the famous Tenement Houses that have given Warsaw its distinctive look and feel.

Or visit the exhibit on the Warsaw mermaids – the mermaid (or Syrena) is the official coat of arms of the city, found on transportation, signs and more. And, of course, this museum has all the details why.

Top off your visit to the main museum with a venture to the museum’s rooftop terrace – the highest viewing point in the Old Town with views over the Old Town Square and those distinctive red and green roofs and iconic landmarks. Climb the winding staircase to the top for – at least in our minds – the best view in the city and one of the top attractions in Warsaw.

If stairs and incredible views aren’t your thing (or you’ve already climbed your way to the top of the tower) the museum offers historical walks, and a new audio guide presents the most interesting objects int he permanent collection

A Storied History

When we say that this museum has seen it all over the last (almost) century, we mean it. Founded in 1936, the museum was originally housed in three buildings on the Old Town Square. The remaining buildings that now make up the museum have lived

many lives over the last few centuries, including— at different points -- a pharmacy, hospital, and headquarters of a Polish military group.

But when war broke out and demolished much of Warsaw over the ensuing six years, the museum and surrounding buildings were not immune to the trauma. In 1944, the museum (and much of the Old Town) was destroyed by the Nazis during the Warsaw Uprising, leaving just facades and some internal structures behind.

After the war, the museum received findings from the ruins and rescued family heirlooms, helping them put together their first post-war exhibition. That exhibition opened in 1955 after the museum’s resilient, years-long effort to rebuild.

The restoration continued in the 21st century when cellars under the main buildings were brought back to life. You can still see the effects of war there today – one preserved cellar alcove is blackened and burned from the assault on the city. Step inside and step back into history.

Today, the museum can be seen as a kind of box of objects – things to uncover and discover that all act as windows into the city’s history.

Key Artefacts

The entire museum tells the story of Warsaw’s history, but there are some key artefacts that are central to the museum’s history, and indicative of the city’s efforts to rebuild. These, we consider unmissable.

The first is the coins. These are collections of coins from the 17th and 18th centuries buried below the ground. During the 2010 renovation, these coins were first discovered – a remarkable find, given they were hidden and buried for hundreds of years. Today, you can visit the coin room in the cellar and see a hole in the stone ground where the riches were buried and later found.

On the first level, you’ll find a number of items saved from war, including a bridge plaque and a remarkable, ornate gold door handle from the original City Hall, which a worker saved amid the building’s destruction.

But the history of the museum doesn’t stop at World War II – artefacts and paintings throughout the space show the life that existed amid communism. Across the wall of one quiet room, find a painting of steel workers done by famed Warsaw painter Wojciech Fangor (whose works have frequently been featured at New York City’s MoMA). It’s an example of socialist realism blended with elements of modernism, which would become his preferred style.

A tear gas canister in the Room of Relics carries a fascinating story: it landed in the museum during protests in the Old Town amid Martial Law in Poland in the 1980s. A smart museum worker took it and recognized that it was yet another object that would tell a piece of Warsaw’s storied history.

And the objects stretch before the modern era as well. One room features tons of pre-war dresses, suits and shoes that give an indication of what fashion looked like before the war. A glass exhibit holds a piece of a robe excavated from the crypt of the last Mazovian dukes.

The whole life of Warsaw stretches out across multiple tenement buildings and seven stories in this museum. This is the identity of Warsaw, all at once.

Museum of Warsaw

QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, tel. (+48) 22 277 44 02, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Thu 09:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Free Thu. https://muzeumwarszawy.pl.

Centrum Praskie Koneser The Ultimate Springtime Destination

Springtime in the city is truly something to behold: buds bursting forth from the ground and trees, leisurely strollers taking in the sun, and diners finally enjoying outdoor patios en masse.

And there are few places better to experience it all than Centrum Praskie Koneser. The former 19th- and 20th-century vodka factory bursts forth each spring season with new life: beautifully decorated walkways, flowers galore, and tons of outdoor spaces.

A Space Fit For Spring

Because of its location, Centrum Praskie Koneser is the ideal starting point to explore Warsaw’s thriving – and growing – eastern bank. The neighborhood, called Praga-Północ, is part of the larger Praga neighborhood, which takes up most of the eastern side of the river. And it’s a fascinating area in its own right; while much of the western section of Warsaw was destroyed during WWII, and is now rebuilt, many parts of the eastern side of the city survived. That includes the around 130-year-old Koneser Factory.

The complex was opened in 1897 as a factory to house the famous Koneser Vodka operations, though other famous vodkas came out of this space as well,

including Wyborowa, Luksusowa and more. Vodka production continued through much of the 20th century.

When investors began repurposing the space for an entertainment, food and shopping center, they leaned into the existing neo-Gothic architecture, highlighting it with contemporary elements. A stroll through the picturesque setting is a must, especially this time of year when the lively Koneser Square erupts in activity that will last all through the ensuing spring and summer months. In the spring, find people walking, sitting with their coffee in the sun, taking photos with the iconic red brick backdrop, and enjoying meals outdoors.

Top-Tier Dining

One of the best aspects of Centrum Praskie Koneser is the sheer number of bars and restaurants, making the space a perfect option for foodies looking for innovative dishes and high-quality ingredients. The restaurants offer a wide range of international

cuisines from American to European, French, Asian, Italian and more. Plus, since it is Poland after all, you won’t be hard pressed to find both traditional and modern Polish flavors.

We recommend starting with Koneser Grill, a highend steak restaurant, and one of the few places in this part of the city to secure a spot on the coveted Michelin Guide. Starlet, an incredible wine bar, also serves up delicate plates of flavor-packed (and picturesque) food.

If you’re looking for variety, try Bombaj Masala, which offers seriously good Indian food, or Concept Food & Wine, which has comfort food with a modern twist (and some gorgeous plating).

Setki Powodów has delicious food along with unique cocktails -- all in a space decorated with neon signs and filled regularly with live music. Speaking of drinks, swing by the ¾ Koneser Bar, located in the Polish Vodka Museum, which offers a number of unique and artisanal alcohol infusions. And then there’s the exciting new space, Spółdzielnia Koneser, which has long been a beloved restaurant, but recently has become a go-to sports bar as well! That’s thanks to the massive bar and large TVs to watch the game.

Culture Awaits

For those who are more interested in roaming museums for the day, Centrum Praskie Koneser is also the spot. Of course, no trip to this space is complete without a visit to the Polish Vodka Museum, a multimedia experience that starts with

the beginnings of vodka production in Poland and details the history of the beloved booze up through the modern day. Check out a variety of vodka bottles, buy some gifts and of course, try some during the vodka tasting (though of course, this is for adults only).

Spend tons of time in the Muzeum Sztuki Fantastycznej, which frequently features art from Polish artists that has not yet been publicly displayed. You’ll find a number of renowned art galleries, including ToTuart Gallery, which displays beautiful sculptures and paintings and also has an auction house!

For families, Kleks. Magic of Cinema is a must-stop. It offers an immersive experience inspired by the beloved character from Polish children’s literature and film.

Shopping, Spa, Studio Art and More!

You can come here for more than just food, drinks and art! This place is bursting at the seams with activities, from shopping, to relaxing, to eating and more.

If you’re traveling, you can even get a room here at the reputed Moxy Warsaw Praga Hotel, which has unique, modern accommodations right in the heart of the complex.

There’s a lot in the way of self-pampering, too. Several salons are located in the space, as well as Ambassade Biologique Recherche, a spa-like spot that offers facial, body and hair treatments. Speaking of beauty care, Mydlarnia Cztery Szpaki is one of the best spots in the city for great hand soaps, scrubs and shampoos – all-natural!

For thoughtful, adult-oriented gifts, head to Alembik, a concept store offering luxurious products. Make sure to also check out Probiernia Urbanowicz, which combines a shop with a stylish showroom. Another must-visit is TAVEX, an exciting concept store that sells gold and silver, precious metals, and international currencies!

Centrum Praskie Koneser is truly one of the best spots in Warsaw to spend these warmer months. Visit koneser.eu for their full offering of events and spaces.

Centrum Praskie Koneser

QK-2, Plac Konesera 8, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu

Traditional Polish Dishes

Polish food is famous for being simple, rich and very filling. Below we list the most well-known dishes you simply must try while in town, all of which you should be able to order from any Polish restaurant worth its salt. Smacznego!

Bigos

Barszcz

A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.

Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’ ‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

Golonka

Gołąbki

Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is like a ‘cabbage enchilada'. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served with tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman.

Pierogi

Kotlet Schabowy

Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being tenderised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.

Poland’s most famous food, you can't leave PL until you’ve had them. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato, sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and served literally everywhere.

Żurek

Placki Ziemniaczane

These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl.

Drink Like a Local

The Italians have wine, the Spaniards have wine. The French…. also wine. But what does Poland do best when it comes to alcohol? Vodka and beer.

These are the two most popular alcoholic beverages in Poland, and that means that brewers and distillers alike have spent a lot of time honing their crafts. Here’s a rundown of the history of these two popular drinks.

The Long History of Vodka

The name “vodka” (an anglicised version of the Polish “wódka” pronounced “v-ood-kah”) means quite literally “little water.” The origins of the drink date back to the 8th century, when distillation was discovered and the practice began to sweep across Europe. When it comes to vodka itself, the first written record of the drink came out in 1405 in Poland.

Originally, it was used as medicine: it helped treat wounds, numb pain, make perfume. But the consumption of vodka became more popular in the 15th and 16th centuries as it became industrialized across the country, with distilleries opening in Kraków, Gdańsk and Poznań (in fact, the popular Żubrówka vodka dates back to this century).

The popularization of vodka continued at a quick clip in Poland, hitting some bumps along the way

(production slowed during the wars at the beginning of the 20th century). Now, Poland is one of the top three producers of vodka in the world, and produced nearly 100 million liters in 2016 alone.

Vodka Traditions

Poles are proud of their vodka and as a result, there are many traditions surrounding the drink. You may not run into all of them when you visit, but here’s a run-down just in case:

Na zdrowie – say this as you clink glasses and make sure to look your drinking partner in the eye or you’ll have years (some say 7, some say 5) of bad luck.

Christmas vodka – drinking a shot of vodka (sipping, not tossing it back) with some good pickled fish (Śledź) is a classic Christmas tradition. In fact, pickled fish and vodka commonly go together at any time of year.

Wedding shots – After the ceremony, the bride and groom will each get a shot of vodka and they’re supposed to down the shot, toss the glasses behind their backs, and break them. The broken glasses signify good luck in the marriage.

Vodka Types

There are many good Polish vodkas but also some classics.

Żubrówka – this is a Polish vodka from the 16th century that is just a classic staple. One popular kind has a sprig of bison grass inside, which makes the drink a little bright and earthy.

Goldwasser – bet you didn’t know this was Polish! This is a classic from the Gdańsk area, and you’ll know it because it has gold flakes floating inside and a slightly cinnamon-y taste.

Chopin – This is just a good vodka. It’s not too sharp, well balanced and it goes great with everything.

Luksusowa – Finally, the people’s vodka. This is good and affordable. This is what people buy to drink with friends on an unassuming Friday night.

Where to get it:

The better question is where not to get vodka in Warsaw? The Polish Vodka Museum (p.66) and the Vodka Museum (p.78) will each take you on a tour through the history of vodka and give you a chance to try some! Klar (G-5) is known for their unique vodka flavors, which are constantly changing as they find new ways to infuse vodka with berries, herbs and spices! Pijalnia wodki i piwa is a chain with plenty of vodka types to sample and enjoy.

Craft Beer Becomes Big

Poland also has a long history with beer that dates back to the middle ages. But it wasn’t until the 18th and 19th centuries that beer became mass produced on an industrial scale. The Tychy Brewery, which produces the extremely popular beer Tyskie, has been around since the 17th century.

The initial styles beloved by Poles were porters (dark beers) and then pale ales (much lighter beers) swiftly began to take over. Like vodka, beer production hit some bumps in the early 20th century but picked up again in the late century.

And that brings us to today – almost. While many of those lager-style beers have reigned in popularity for decades, the past 10 years have seen smaller breweries start getting in on the beer game. Many home brewing operations started making craft beer, and by making smaller batches than

industrial brewers, they were able to focus more on experimenting with non-traditional ingredients and techniques, leading to more interesting flavors.

Craft Beer Types

Pinta – around since 2010, this brewery is one of the most popular craft breweries in all of Poland, and regularly makes hazy IPAs, sour beers, pale ales, pilsners – the works!

Funky Fluid – a Warsaw-based brewery, this is another type of craft beer that’s been gaining more and more popularity over the years for its bold flavors of hoppy, wild and sour beers (and more!)

Trzech Kumpli – brewing since the start of the craft beer craze in about 2014, this brewery makes a lot of dark beers (smoked porters, Irish stouts) as well as light lagers and pilsners.

Piwne Podziemie – one of the smaller craft breweries, but that means they can really focus on their flavorand they deliver! For the beer snobs who have tried every type, this is the beer to grab.

Where to get it:

Well of course you can buy the large-scale, industrial beers (Tyskie, Lech, Żywiec) pretty much anywhere. But for craft beers, you have to know where to go. Pinta has a bar specializing in their beers on Chimelnia Street. Other bars like Jabeerwocky (G-8), Kufle i Kapsle, will also offer great craft beers, Drevny Kocur, and Browary Warszawskie (p 30) are very popular, too. Plus, don’t miss the beer festivals held in the spring and fall in Warsaw!

Transport

Travelling around Warsaw by bus, metro and tram is fast, efficient and affordable; driving a car through the centre, on the other hand, can be confusing and frustrating. As such, for visitors the city centre is best navigated by bike, scooter, public transport or taxi/ride share - all of which are explained here. For detailed info about Warsaw’s airports and train stations, visit our website.

Public Transport

Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system, as well as a good metro system with the M1 line running north-south and M2 running east-west. Over 1,900 buses operate in and around the city, and run 05:00-23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops.

Standardised tickets are valid for use on the metro, buses and trams, and can be bought from machines with instructions in English at all metro stations, and some bus and tram stops. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on the actual buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only.

A standard single fare costs 4.40zł for 75min, or 3.40zł for a 20min ticket. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll need a 7zł ticket

that covers both zones 1 and 2 (note that the airport is still in Zone 1). Tickets valid for 24 hours, 3 days and a special ‘weekend’ ticket might also be worth considering. Those over 70 ride for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7, but you must have photo ID (those who ride free still need a ticket/’wejściówka’ to get through the gates of the metro - find wall dispensers next to the gates and hang on to the ticket for multiple rides). Everyone else pays full fare, unless you have an ISIC card which entitles you to a reduced fare (‘ulgowy’ ticket).

Once you’re through the electronic gates of the metro, you’re ready to ride. For buses and trams, however, there’s one extra step - validating your ticket immediately once you’re on board in the small ‘kasownik’ boxes on trams and buses. Plain clothes ticket inspectors stalk the lines, dishing out hefty fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification.Qwww.ztm.waw.pl

Bike Hire

Veturilo Public Bike

Warsaw has cemented its big-city credentials with a fleet of 3,000+ bikes at over 300 stations. Veturilo is ridiculously easy: once you’ve registered online and paid the initial 10zł fee, you can visit any of the stations, select your ride, scan the bike’s QR code and you’re off! For standard bikes the first 20mins are free, and from there you pay 1zł for 21-60 minutes, 3zł for the second hour, 5zł for the third, and 7zł for each hour after that up to 12 hours; electric bikes are more expensive. When you’re done, pop your bike back into the stand at any of the stations.Qwww.veturilo. waw.pl. Available from March 1 to November 30.

Car Rental

Traficar Car Share

Want your own car, but just for a short while?

Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code, and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don’t have to pay for gas! Everything is done through their easy-to-use app. In terms of cost versus a taxi, it comes out about the same, but as an alternative to car rental, Traficar is a wonder.You can rent a vehicle for as long as you want at only 4.99 zł to start and then 2.19 zł per kilometer, or for 24 hours for only 69 zł a day and then 1.49 zł per kilometer. You can even drop it off in another city where Traficar operates.Qtel. (+48) 12 300 03 30, www.traficar.pl.

Prices are calculated as 4.99zł to start a journey, plus 2.19 zł/km.

Private Transport

VIP SERVICE

NEW Transport&Private Tours

This is true luxury! A private car service, offering trips for individuals and groups. It doesn’t just stop at driving. VIP also offers services for conferences, congresses, business events, and special occassions. Not only that, but their cars are sleek and stylish, with models like Mercedes-Benz E-Class, BMW 7 Series, and more. They also hold private tours tailor made for individual riders - depending on interest and available time. You might just choose to zip around Warsaw in style, or you can venture outside of the city: tours go to Kraków, Gdańsk, Wrocław, Łódź, Lublin and others. They also help with booking restaurants and concert tickets, getting access to sporting events, and organizing personalized experiences for each guest. QAl. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48) 693 70 60 60, www.vip-service.pl/

Warsaw Sightseeing

When it comes to Sightseeing, visitors should be sure to experience the dynamic synergy of Warsaw as a modern metropolis that still nurtures its cultural spirit and traditions. To this end, our guide details the capital’s most important districts, walking you through not only the antiquated Old Town (p.38), regal Royal Route (p.48) and the imperial beauty of Łazienki (p.58) and Wilanów (p.62), but also around the soaring, frenetic City Centre (p.28), happening Powiśle (p.54) and scruffy Praga (p.64). If your time is limited, however, here’s a cheat sheet of the city’s most unmissable sights.

8 Essential Sights

1 Plac Zamkowy

More of a triangle than a square, and home to the Royal Castle, this popular plac is where modern Warsaw meets the Old Town.QSee p.39

2 Old Town Square

A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII.QSee p.43.

3 Polish Vodka Museum

One of the best visits in Warsaw, this museum will take you on a tour through Poland's national drink, including tons of history and even a tasting at the end!QSee p.78.

4 Łazienki Park

Full of incredible art and architecture this massive park and palace complex offers spectacular opportunities for sightseeing.QSee p.58

9 Palace of Culture & Science

Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’, this 237-metre-high structure was Warsaw’s tallest building until 2021, and takes its inspiration from the capitalist worldnamely the Empire State Building. Working around the clock, it took over 5,000 workers - ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village - just three years to finish the Palace in 1955 With 3,288 rooms inside, the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just Communist Party headquarters but also as ‘The People’s Castle.’ Now an iconic part of Warsaw’s landscape, the Palace is celebrated by some, while for others it merely represents Russian hegemony.

At present the building hosts several theatres, a cinema, numerous bars, restaurants and cafes, and a tourist info office, as well as the National Museum of Technology and the Museum of Evolution Tours of the interiors are offered hourly in Polish between 10:00 and 15:00, and in English at 16:00. Book tickets online in advance, or skip the tour and head straight to the outdoor viewing terrace on the 30th floor (via elevator) for thrilling panoramic views; tickets available online.

QE-8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 10:00-20:00. Viewing terrace open 10:00-20:00; terrace admission 30/25zł. U

5 Wilanów Palace

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17thcentury royal palace 10km to the south.QSee p.62

6

Highline Warsaw

A stunning view of the entire city is seen here, at the top of the tallest building in the EUQSee p.35.

National Museum

7

With tons of art from the 20th century and beyond, plus great exhibits on ancient Greece and rome, this is a must!QSee p.79

8 Warsaw Rising Museum

Telling the history of the 1944 Warsaw uprising against the Nazis in increadible detail, with stories from actual people, tons of interactive elements, and history upon history. This will leave an impact. QSee p.83

Warsaw ‘City Centre’

Known locally as ‘Śródmieście,’ Warsaw’s City Centre isn’t exactly a district (it comprises several, actually), but more of a catch-all term for the downtown area. Definitions vary, but generally, you know it when you’re in it - wide streets, monumental buildings, billboards, busy crosswalks and little to stand in the way of progress. It’s the modern, fast-paced, forwardlooking part of the city radiating out from the Palace of Culture & Science, and it’s here that you’ll find the majority of the city’s hotels, restaurants and bars, but also government buildings, skyscrapers and places of commerce - the dynamic heart of the contemporary capital.

In terms of tourism, it’s not exactly inviting, so why start here? Well, chances are you’re staying in the City Centre and probably there right now, so let’s get familiar with what’s around before running off to the Old Town (p.38). Despite not being particularly cosy or nostalgic, there are still many points of interest downtown, and nowhere more conveys the modern character of the Polish capital.

Anielewicza

Pawia

Pawia

Gliniana

Pawia

Dzielna

Smocza

Nowolipki

Chłodna Słupecka

Spi

Nowolipie

Ogrodowa

Grzybowska

Srebrna Dzielna

Platynowa

TarczyńskaDaleka

Nowolipki

Dantyszka Złota

Reja

Places to Explore

1 Plac Piłsudskiego

Used over the centuries for military parades and national celebrations, this is Warsaw’s largest square Named after legendary inter-war Polish leader, Józef Piłsudski; you’ll find a statue of the Marshal guarding his naming rights with a stern gaze nearby. The space has undergone quite a few rebrandings thanks to the changing political landscape, including a stint as ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ under Nazi occupation. During the era of Partitions, the huge orthodox St. Nevsky Cathedral was built here. Considered a symbol of Russian oppression, it was razed after Poland regained its independence. It was here that in 1979, Polish Pope John Paul II gave an open-air holy mass to 500,000 people, instilling hope in the struggle against the repressive communist system. In 2018, two new monuments were addedboth relating to the tragic and highly politicised Smoleńsk Air Disaster in which a plane carrying 96 members of a Polish government delegation crashed in the Russian forest in 2010; everyone on board perished, including President Lech Kaczyński, whose monument here gazes upon that of the other victims. At the western end you’ll find the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the broken colonnades of Saxon Palace - the grand structure this square stood in front of until its destruction during WWII. Here, the ashes of unidentified soldiers who died for the Polish cause are interred along with an eternal flame. You can watch the official changing of the guard every hour, on the hour.QF-6, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

2 Saxon Garden

Plac Piłsudskiego’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier almost serves as an entrance gate into Saski Park, aka Saxon Garden. This historic 15.5ha park is the oldest in the city, and became one of the first public parks in the world when it opened to all in 1727. At that time it was a Baroque garden with the grandiose Saxon Palace playing a role very similar to the Palace of Versailles in Paris’ famous park. Despite its demise during WWI, Saxon Garden still offers several historical points of interest, in addition to lots of benches, plenty of shade and a much-needed escape from the urban din of the capital. The centrepiece of the gardens is a large fountain created in 1855 by renowned Warsaw architect Henryk Marconi. The alleyways running out from it are lined with blooming flowers, ancient trees and neoclassical sculptures. In the northwestern part of the park, you’ll find the Romanesque Water Tower from 1825 - also designed by Marconi, and modelled on the famous Temple of Vesta in Tivoli.QF-6, Between ul. Marszałkowska and Plac Piłsudskiego, MŚwiętokrzyska.

3 Browary Warszawskie

Once one of Central Europe’s most famous brewing complexes, this 4.5ha area has been revitalised into a trendy urban culture and gastronomy district, densely packed with dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars, bakeries and shops. Mixing bold new architecture with restored historical buildings, post-industrial design with public green spaces, the heart of this ‘city within the city’ is Food Hall Browary - 14 food conceptsat restaurant stalls in the former cellars. The historic Browar Warszawski (Warsaw Brewery) itself has also been revived and is once again producing craft beers (18 different types!) for local hopheads, while other highlights include a sports bar part-owned by Robert Lewandowski (Nine’s). The food is delicious and so is the atmosphere.QC-7, ul. Grzybowska 60, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.browarywarszawskie.com.pl.

4 Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire

One of Warsaw’s newest public spaces, European Square was created by Wirtz International Landscape Architecture as part of the impressive Warsaw Spire - Poland’s 3rd-tallest skyscraper at 220m. Both the square and the office building have won awards for their design. This small square has a lot of features: trees, benches, fountains, reflecting pools, two large murals, an amphitheatre, a unique Art Walk gallery where changing exhibits are displayed, and an iconic 3D Instagram-baiting installation that says ‘Kocham Warszawę’ (I Love Warsaw). Of course there are cafes, bars and food options as well, making this a very unique and worthwhile place to hang out in Warsaw’s business district.QC-7, MRondo Daszyńskiego.

Find us

will find an impressive industrial history , an incredible food hall with international cuisine called KinoGram boutique cinema, an Event Hall with more than 600 square meters of event space, a fitness centre, shops, cafes and more - including a bevy of events. Young families will also find a lot of options here, starting with Planet (p. 84 ) , an educational young children to partake in the fun with highly interactive games, activities and more! ul. Żelazna 51/53, M Rondo Daszyńskiego, (+48) 22 318 88 88, zgloszenia@fabrykanorblina.pl fabrykanorblina.pl T­E­6

6 Plac Grzybowski

This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction is the 19th century Saints’ Church . From 1941 it was Ghetto and Parish Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski helped to house Jews in the rectory and assisted several to escape.

7 Plac Defilad

Most people arrive to the Polish capital via Warszawa Centralna train station, which, together with the Palace of Culture (p.27), basically comprises Warsaw City Centre’s ground zero. Plac Defilad is the vast, concrete sprawl around the Palace of Culture, but particularly the east side. As the name ‘Parade Square’ hints, this mostly empty plot was created by communist-era city planners in the 1950s, along with the Palace of Culture. Measuring 24ha, it was until recently the second largest public square in the EU, though no one would have mistaken it for a proper square.

For years it’s mostly been parking, but plenty of historical events have taken place here, from PRL propaganda parades, to massive rallies for Pope John Paul II, to Christmas markets, ice rinks and New Year’s Eve concerts. After a long construction period, the new, sleek Museum of Modern Art opened in October 2024, coinciding with the introduction of Plac Centralny (Central Sqaure) - essentially, the central part of Plac Defilad surrounding the museum is being turned into a greener, more pedestrianfriendly space under the new moniker. This is wellworth checking out because it really does feel like the heart of the city, and there's plenty of options for food, drink and planning your next move.QF-8, Plac Defilad, MCentrum.

8 Złote Tarasy

There is plenty of great shopping to be had in and around Warsaw, and Złote Tarasy, seated next to the central train station, is no exception with great stores like Sephora, Van Graaf and Zara. But many people actually admire the complex for its ultra modern architecture. It’s a good idea to check out the space, which has a 10,000m glass dome fitted with a special mechanism to both filter sunrays and stop snow from building up. The dome itself is reminiscent of waves, water, balloons -- basically any form without a straight edge. The 1.5 billion zł project was designed by a California-based firm and construction began in 2002. After it was completed in 2004, the design won the firm an award by a famous London-based architecture magazine. QE-8, ul. Złota 59, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 222 22 00, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open 09:00-22:00; Sun 09:00-21:00.

9 Pasaż Wiecha and the Eastern Wall

Initially, the buzzword for architects in the region was Socialist Realism, a severe style following strict guidelines from a Soviet masterplan. The death of Stalin in 1953 changed all that and architects looked to the west for inspiration. This led to all manner of brutalist monstrosities rising from the ruins left after WWII. One of the most monstrous among them

was this massive wall of buildings, which is now among the oldest department store/retail complexes in Poland. Designed by architect Zbigniew Karpiński and completed in 1969, the buildings were hailed a work of genius, but soon fell into neglect, their reputation changing to that of an enormous eyesore covered in advertising in the early post-communist era. However, eventually new life was breathed into the complex. Now, find shining glass frontages added to the department stores, and granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern tubular lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie end. Although once entirely dodgy, Pasaż Wiecha - the long space behind the ‘Eastern Wall’ - is today lined with shops and restaurant gardens on both sides, making it an interesting area to explore. It also boasts benches, hammocks, beach chairs and other elements of urban design, and increasingly plays host to events like food fairs. Ironically, the centrepiece of the city’s big 1960s redevelopment plan is now a focal point in the ‘Nowe Centrum Warszawy’ plan, under which this area has become more green and user-friendly for residents. It’s all part of a larger plan to support a lively pedestrian corridor through the city centre from here to ul. Nowy Świat (p.53) via ul. Chmielna.QF-7/8, MCentrum.

10 Plac Pięciu Rogów & ul. Chmielna

This lovely public square opened in July 2022 at the intersection of Bracka, Krucza, Zgody, Szpitalna and Chmielna Streets - hence the name, ‘Five Corner Square.’ Although the new design still features a lot of concrete, 22 maple trees have been added to the space, as well as numerous benches with almost 40 sitting places. Most significantly, the entire area has been opened up and given over to pedestrians, which is a huge improvement over the urban tangle that previously prevailed here. Plac Pięciu Rog ów is basically the centrepiece of redevelopment works throughout this area which are transforming ul. Chmielna into a high street for pedestrians A great area for exploration: you’ll plenty of cafes, restaurants, bars and intriguing places for relaxing and refuelling. Q G - 7/8, M Centrum, www.plac5rogow.pl

11 Plac Konstytucji

A wonderful spectacle of socialist realist architecture, Constitution Square was constructed between 1950-52 to be an ‘expression of creative optimism and peaceful work within the socialist system.’ Its real purpose was to serve as a focal point for the frequent state parades, which would go from here down ul. Marszałkowska to Plac Defilad (Parade Square) in front of The Palace of Culture and Science.

HOME OF THE WORLD’S BEST GRAIN-FED RIBEYE

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Quite an anomaly in the urban fabric of Warsaw, Constitution Square was the crowning glory of the Marszałkowska Housing District - the first housing district to be completed out of the complete devastation of WWII. It was quite an achievement and heralded as a big success at the time.

Dominated by three monumental street lamps looking like giant tridents, you’ll still see some socialist mosaics here and there, but things get even better along the tail end of ul. Marszałkowska, leading to Plac Zbawiciela, where socialist reliefs of workers line the street.QG-10, Pl. Konstytucji, MPolitechnika.

12 Plac Zbawiciela

In the aftermath of WWII, this star-shaped roundabout became dominated by PRL-era buildings from the 1950s, but still harbours a couple of gems. The first is the conspicuous Church of the Holiest Saviour, from which the square takes its name (Saviour Square). Built in neo-Renaissance style in the 1920s, that it stands is a marvel, considering it was dynamited by the Nazis during WWII and then tagged for demolition by the communists. The other pre-war building here is the handsome Jasieńczyk-Jabłoński tenement (Mokotowska 12), erected in 1910. Upon completion, it was not only one of the most modern, but also the tallest residential building in Warsaw (38 m). From 2012–

2015, Julita Wójcik's "Rainbow" art installation notably soared over Plac Zbawiciela. A 9m high 26m wide rainbow made of plastic flowers, the piece proved too controversial for PL's anti-LGBT factions, who repeatedly lit it on fire until it was removed. However, there are plans to bring it back!QG-10, MPolitechnika.

13 Warsaw University of Technology

TThe historic main building of what's known locally as Politechnika Warszawska is an absolute wonder of neo-baroque architecture designed by Stefan Szyller at the turn of the 18/19th centuries. This stout, sturdy two-story building with its unique rounded corners survived WWII bombing and was quickly retouched after the war.

Its magnificent facade features an array of architectural embellishments they just don't teach the kids inside anymore: sculptures, bas-reliefs, frescoes and sgraffito, to name a few. If you think the exterior is impressive, finagle your way inside to see the pentagonal cloister courtyard with its four stories of arcades, phenomenal staircase and beautiful stained-glass roof - one of the most-photogenic places in Warsaw.

The university itself was established in 1826 and is today one of the largest technology universities in Central Europe, with over 36,000 students per year.. QF-10, Plac Politechniki 1, MPolitechnika. Open 06:0022:00.

14 Hala Koszyki

If you're wondering where all the students are, this might be the answer. This is one of Warsaw's handful of marvelous indoor market halls, with food, shopping, art and more! And this is definitely one to check out because it's photogenic, with a phenomenal groundfloor food hall (p.103), with everything form dim sum to gelato, burgers, fries and more!

There are plenty of boutique shops and a lot of great events held here. Plus, we can't say enough about the architecture. Built over 100 years ago in the Art Nouveau style, this stunning building originally served as a market hall. It was redeveloped in 2016 to pay homage to its original use (many of the original brick and latticework is still featured prominently here) but with a new, contemporary feel. This is urban revitalisation at its most impressive and photogenic. QF-10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki. com. Open 08:00-01:00.

15 Highline Warsaw (in the VARSO Tower)

Right in the heart of Warsaw sits the highest tower in the EU (seriously!), this place should be your final stop after sightseeing all day. Varso tower consists of three buildings including the main building, which is the tallest in the EU and the 6th tallest in Europe at 310 meters. It was completed in 2022, and surpassed the Palace of Culture and Science as the tallest building in Poland.

To get the full experience, find Highline Warsaw, which allows for 360-degree views of the city thanks to their observation deck on the 53rd floor. Everything you just saw by foot, you can now see from the sky! The tour to the top starts with a speedy panoramic elevator (yet more views!) through an immersive corridor among the clouds. There’s an exhibition about Warsaw and an Experience Room with three films from different eras of the city’s history.

Before you go to the observation deck (or after), head over to the HighGarden Rooftop Lounge (p.106) on the 49th floor, a lush cocktail bar with a terrace and garden, tons of incredible cocktails and local snacks and, of course, those views of the sunset over Warsaw. Right next door is the HighGarden Event Bar, which is a great place for private events. Plus, there’s a boutique selling souveniers and local products on the 46th floor. All in all, a great experience for the end of your sightseeing adventures -- take in the highest building in the EU, and see everything you've seen from the ground, from the sky!QE-8, Varso Tower, Chmielna 69, MRondo ONZ, www.highlinewarsaw.com. Open 10:00-22:00.

Sk y s c r a p e r s

& Viewpoints

Warsaw has plainly stated its ambition to have more skyscrapers than any other city in Europe. The city currently has 32 buildings over 100m high, with more pending or approved for construction to potentially bring the total much higher in the coming years. Beloved by locals and symbolic of the city’s aspiration to be the most modern capital in Europe, here are some of the most notable towers in town.

Varso: This office complex is the tallest building in the EU at 310m (though the last 80m is a spire). At the top find the HighGarden Rooftop Lounge, with drinks and views of the city p.106 QE-8.

Palace of Culture & Science: Buy a ticket, then head up to the 30th floor of Warsaw’s oldest and second tallest skyscraper (237m) for amazing panoramic views from an actual open-air terrace More on p.27 QE-9.

Warsaw UNIT: Warsaw’s 5th tallest tower (202m) was completed in 2021. Included is the wild new adrenaline attraction Skyfall Warsaw - a vertigo-inducing glass box that dangles outside the building (available to companies and special events)QC-8.

Złota 44: Designed by Daniel Libeskind, this luxury residential tower is one of Wawa’s most beautiful and distinctive skyscrapers, and its 7th tallest (192m).QE-8.

InterContinental Hotel: At 165m, Warsaw’s InterContinental Hotel is one of the tallest 5-star hotels in the world, and features the highest swimming pool in Europe at 150m. Open to non-guests, go have a swim in the clouds.QE-8.

Centrum LIM/Warsaw Presidential Hotel: The Panorama Sky Bar on the 40th floor of this veteran skyscraper (completed 1989) offers a liquid view to the city. Although the drinks are among Wawa’s most expensive, this is one of the city’s most accessible views.QE-9.

Warsaw - THE HUB: Completed in 2020, this complex consists of two 130m buildings and an 86m building. For great views, head up to the bar on the 21st floor - The Roof (p.108).QC-8.

Atlas Tower: 119m tall and completed way back in 1999, the locals think this one looks like a porta-loo, but the 27th floor features one of the best luxury roof clubs in the world, Level 27. The building is also home to the Invisible Exhibition (p.76). QE-9.

The Old Town

A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ when Warsaw was a pearl of European architecture, the Old Town was actually entirely rebuilt after WWII. Today it stands as a stunning testament of Varsovians’ great pride in their city, and its rise from the ruins. If you have only one day in Warsaw, you should spend part of it here.

In the devastating aftermath of the Warsaw Uprising (p.82), 85% of the city’s left bank lay in ruin, half of its population had perished, and the Old Town was a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau immediately started rebuilding the historic centre using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs. The first phase of reconstruction was completed in 1953, but works continued in the following decades, finally concluding with the opening of the Royal Castle (p.40) in 1984. Although what you see today is not strictly ‘original’ per say, its inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes of its authenticity and the effort required to recreate it.

WALKING TOUR

Our Old Town Walking Tour leads you around the oldest part of the city, showing you its most important and interesting points, beginning and ending near Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) - the traditional entrance to the district.

The prescribed route covers only about 1.5km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take less than 30mins, but ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple of short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks - we reckon it will take at most several hours to complete. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your phone/camera, comfy shoes and off you go.

1 Plac Zamkowy

Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square), the busy plaza where Warsaw’s medieval centre (to the north), meets the thoroughfare of its Royal Route (to the south), in the shadow of the Royal Castle. More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, with the steps of King Sigismund’s Column typically besieged by couples, schoolkids and skateboarders. A lot happens here, whether it’s political demonstrations, street performers, or the steady flow of locals and tourists out for a stroll.

As for the famous column, it honours the man who in 1596 moved the Polish capital from Krak ów to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa. 22 metres tall, it was erected in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived and was returned to his perch in 1949.

Also note that there is a tourist info office located here at Plac Zamkowy 1/13 (open 9:00-18:00, Sunday 10:00-18:00). so you'll be able to find all the information you need before you explore further. QF-4, MRatusz Arsenał.

2 Royal Castle

More a palace than a castle, this building is the pride of Warsaw, reconstructed from a pile of rubble at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by now deceased commie buddies such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money for rebuilding came from generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, then of the president and then the seat of parliament. The prescribed tour will take you through the Kings' apartments and chambers, heavily adorned with paintings of famous Polish moments. Maps on the wall reflect Poland's greatest days, when it stretched from the Baltic to the Black Sea.

Those who plonk down for admission (60zł/45zł) will have plenty to see, including the Kings’ apartments and chambers, the Houses of Parliament and the opulent Great Assembly Hall. Additional tickets are required for the Gallery of Masterpieces and the apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski - aka the ‘TinRoofed Palace’ (open Wed, Sat, Sun only, 10:00-17:00; 20/15zł) Luckily for families, children under 7 get in for free, while those 7-16 years old have to pay 1zł! Visiting time: 2hrs.QG-4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 60/45zł. Kids & students with valid ID, 1zł for each exhibit; Wed free for all exhibits.

3 Gallery of Masterpieces

The east wing of the Royal Castle’s main floor is now home to a permanent exhibition of various works of art that had formerly been spread throughout the property, including two works by Rembrandt: ‘The Girl in a Picture Frame’ and ‘The Scholar at the Lectern.’ Both paintings were part of a major donation of 37 works of art given by Countess Karolina Lanckorońska, a Polish resistance fighter and concentration camp survivor who, upon Poland’s return to independence in 1989, bequeathed her family’s art collection to the nation. The Castle has done an impressive job of staging the artworks, with muted walls and focused lighting keeping all the attention on the various portraits of 16th and 17th century royalty like Marie Antoinette and still life paintings of flower-filled bounties. There’s a room devoted to porcelain, tapestries and glassware from the era, plus changing temporary exhibits. The Castle’s free admission on Wednesdays have seen the gallery overrun with visitors, so serious art lovers will want to pay for the chance to wander at a less harried pace.

Average visiting time: 1hr.QG-4, Pl. Zamkowy 4 (Royal Castle), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl/strona/wizyta-wnetrza-iekspozycja/1126-kolekcja-sztuki-zamku-krolewskiegow-warszawie. Open 10:00-17:00; closed Mon. Admission 60/45zł; kids and students under 17 with valid ID 1zł; Wed free. U

4 Branicki & Szaniawski Palaces

The neighbouring Branicki and Szaniawski Palaces are two stunning noble residences from the last century of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth. The Szaniawski Palace at ul. Miodowa 8, named after the first noble family residents, was built at the beginning of the 18th century, and was later the residence of the famed Ostrowski family. It was first reworked into its current classical style in 1812. Branicki Palace at number 6 came later in 1740, and aimed to capture the magic of French rococo architecture, in addition to having a horseshoeshaped layout with stunning façades and rooftop windows.

When Count Jan Klemens Branicki died in 1771, the estate was inherited by his wife, Izabella Poniatowska, the sister of King Stanisław August Poniatowski and an influential figure of the Enlightenment era in Poland. The palace was a congregation point for many Enlightenment-era creatives of whom Izabella was a patron. Both palaces were destroyed in WWII and reconstructed using Renaissance-era paintings as a reference. These romantic buildings from ‘straight out of a painting’ were brought together in 2022, when the Marriott’s Autograph Collection opened their first Polish property here as the Hotel Verte. This exquisite 5-star accommodation option also features KUK Restaurant. (p.100).QF-4, ul. Miodowa 6-8.

5 Jan Kiliński Monument

This huge monument honours Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence - an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg.

Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on Plac Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being relocated here in 1959. Kiliński’s comrade and superior Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages.QF-4, ul. Podwale.

6 Old Town Defensive Ramparts

The first sections of Warsaw’s defensive walls date back to the late 13th century, and by the end of the 14th century they stretched 1,200 meters, enclosing an area of about 8.5ha, and included 8 towers and 4 city gates. The most famous of these now non-existent structures was the Kraków Gate on Plac Zamkowy, and the Marshall’s Tower. Already in the 15th century these defenses were deemed insufficient and a second, lower line of brick walls was built along today’s ul. Podwale at a distance of just 9-14m from the previous walls; a moat was dug in-between and the Barbican was built in 1548 as the final piece of the defenses. As Varsovians were already settling in numbers beyond the city walls, these fortifications quickly became obsolete and from the 17th century they were being demolished or incorporated into tenement buildings. Ironically it was the total destruction of the Old Town that allowed these walls to be rebuilt after WWII and today the space between the two historical brick ramparts forms a pedestrian promenade parallel to ul. Podwale known as ‘Międzymurzę.’ Along this pleasant route you'll find many historical plaques and monuments, but you won't see much of the Old Town centre, as the view is obscured by the high inner wall. Apart from all the interesting history, there are some incredible modern experiences to be had here. QF-4, Międzymurzę Jana Zachwatowicza.

7 The Little Insurgent Monument

The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, though by the early 1980s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show, and this small-butpoignant monument made its debut in 1983. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the sculpture commemorates the children who had to grow up fast, serving as messengers and frontline troops during the Uprising. With its oversized helmet and rifle, the bronze figure was inspired by the story of 13-year-old corporal Antek, himself killed in action near this spot on August 8, 1944. For history buffs, this is the spot to go, hands (or arms) down.QF-4, ul. Podwale.

Crossroads!

Continue along the Old Town defensive walls to the Barbican, and on to the Old Town Square?

Or, duck out of the medieval walls and down ul. Kilińskiego, hanging a left on ul. Długa for a short <20min/1.5km walk to the POLIN Museum (D-4, p.81) via the imposing Warsaw Uprising Monument and lovely Krasiński Palace and Gardens (E-4)?

8 Warsaw Barbican

Crowning the set of the medieval defensive walls which once protected the northern entrance to the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548, built by architect Giovanni Battista Venetian on the site of an earlier gate. Despite its intended use, the Barbican was only ever used in one fighting action when on June 30, 1656, during the Swedish deluge, Polish troops attacked to retake the city. In the 18th century, the Barbican was partially demolished with the remains being incorporated into new apartment buildings.

It was during the interwar period that restoration work began to return the Barbican to its former glory, but alas, World War II put a hold to works, with it being completely destroyed. Along with the Old Town reconstruction, the fortified wall and Barbican were restored. Today, it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers, buskers and 'artists' selling their wares. Interested in more Barbican history? During the warmer months you can pop inside to see a small exhibition put together by the Museum of Warsaw. You'll also find a lot of great photo opportunities nd general life happening here in those warm spring and summer months. Definitely worth a walk throughQF-3/4

9 Old Town Square

Measuring 90 by 73 metres, the Old Town Square is prewar Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated tenements - keep an eye out for the ‘House Under the Lion,’ with frescos by Zofia Stryjeńska (our Polish artistic crush - look up her work) at the southwest corner leading onto ul. Świetojańska. Today, the buildings around the Rynek host numerous cafes, restos, shops and museums. In the summer months, this is the place to sit outside with an aperol or a coffee and enjoy people watching. In the winter, this is the place to stroll and feed the pigeons while also admiring the mermaid statue in the middle of the square (not the main one. That's on p.54). The Museum of Warsaw occupies the

Crossroads!

Stay on target with a stroll through the Barbican towards the Old Town Square?

Or take a detour down charming pedestrian thoroughfare ul. Freta, past the Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum, en route to the New Town Square (350m away)?

Eat & Drink

Warsaw’s Old Town is full of restaurants and bars, but, as this is literally the most touristy part of the city, the quality varies. When it’s time to take a break, here are a few places that are worth the money and worth seeking out.

U Fukiera: Adhering to tradition with extravagant flair, this famous restaurant on the Old Town Square offers an exceptional dining experience. And it's all in a beautiful, slightly eccentric environment! A dining experience like no other. Qp.101.

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem: This veteran Polish restaurant is as traditional as it gets, with potato pancakes, pierogi, kotlet, and so, so much more. Make sure to stop here for the authentic stuff.Qp.96.

Ciao Napoli: Authentic Neapolitan pizza (the best in town?), fresh seafood and a lovely space make this affordable franchise deservedly popular. Plus, there's outdoor seating for the warm spring and summer months! Qp.95.

KUK Restaurant: Located in the decidedly regal 18th-century Branicki-Szaniawski complex, this restaurant blends the tradition of Polish food with contemporary flair. Expect small, artistic plates bursting with flavor (and worthy of a photoshoot).Qp.100

entire northern side of the square, Museum World of Illusion (p.84) can be found at number 21, and number 27 is home to Warsaw’s oldest restaurant, U Fukiera (p.101).

During the 15th century the square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today, it features Warsaw’s best-loved monument and the city’s defining symbol - Syrenka, aka the Warsaw Mermaid Cast in 1855, this busty vixen’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital. All around a great spot to spend some time and really bask in the European old town vibes.QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta.

10 Museum of Warsaw

Inside 11 conjoined historical tenements on the Old Town Square, this revamped museum’s permanent exhibit, ‘The Things of Warsaw,’ presents the city’s cultural history via 7,000 objects displayed in 22 thematic rooms. Included are portraits, postcards, souvenirs, and other items with representations of the Polish capital.

Additionally, an exhibit Testimonies from the Warsaw Ghetto shines a light on the difficult history of the city's ghetto in the 1940s, told by people who experienced it. Finally, there’s a bookstore, cafe and fabulous viewpoint overlooking the Old Town Square. Well worth a visit! Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, www.muzeumwarszawy. pl. Open 9:00-17:00; Thu 9:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:0018:00; closed Mon. Admission 35/25zł; permanent exhibit only 25/18zł; temp. exhibit only 20/15zł; Thu free. U­6

11 Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre

This focuses on the architectural history of the Old Town, and is the best introduction to the history of Warsaw's reconstruction. The permanent exhibition gives an in-depth look into Warsaw's Old town, before, during and after WWII, which decimated 90% of the neighborhood. Following the destruction of WWII, the Old Town was reconstructed in a pioneering way that combined modern techniques and conservation methods. The museum gives a clear reason for why the reconstruction of the Old Town led to its place on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Visiting time: 30-60mins.QF-4, ul. Brzozowa 11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 34 02, www. ciz.muzeumwarszawy.pl/en/. Open Wed 9.00-17.00; Thu 9.00-18.00; Fri 9.00-17.00; Sat, Sun 11.00-17.00; closed Mon, Tue. Admission 15/10zł; Thu free. Free admission to permanent and temporary exhibitions is available to persons with disabilities (upon presentation of a disability card or certificate) and their accompanying carers. More information about accessibility: https://muzeumwarszawy.pl/lokalizacje/ centrum-interpretacji-zabytku/ U­6

12 Gnojna Góra

Demonstrating how every word sounds exotic when you don’t know the language, Gnojna Góra may sound like another charming stop on your tour. And it is for the views over the Vistula River, but not for the name, which literally translates as Shit Hill (Dung Hill, if you wish to be more polite). For centuries, this was the dumping ground for all of the Old Town’s waste. As you can imagine, it grew over time and the distinctive shape can best be seen from the bottom. At one stage it was actually renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, it turns out). From here head back towards the centre via ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city, then swerve onto ul. Kanonia QG-4, ul. Brzozowa.

Choose Your Adventure!

Circling back to Plac Zamkowy you can either carry on down the Royal Route (turn the page), or circle round the back of the Royal Castle for a walk through the free gardens and down along the riverbank towards Powiśle (p.54).

13 Ul. Kanonia

Once the site of the oldest cemetery in Warsaw, Kanonia Street takes the shape of a small square, at the centre of which is a cracked cathedral bell dating back to 1646. Cast by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column), the bell never actually rang at St. John’s Cathedral next to it, but it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell while walking its circumference and your wish will come true Across from the bell is one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Only 2m across, it was designed to evade property taxes, which in the 18th century (when it was built) were calculated based on the width of the facade facing the main street. Also note the covered walkway nearby, which

links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle and was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The attacker, who succeeded in striking the King twice with a pickaxe before being overpowered, was subsequently dealt with using the most medieval means imaginable: stretched by four horses, he was quartered with an axe; his body was then burned, and the ashes fired from a musket so as to disperse them in the air. This was all done in public, of course, at the city’s execution place, a few blocks away at the end of ul. Piekaska.QG-4, ul. Kanonia.

14 St. John the Baptist Cathedral

Originally built in the 14th century, St John’s is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the May 3rd Constitution inside the building. The bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s 1st president) and various Mazovian knights can be seen in the crypt (open Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 15:00-17:00, closed during mass; admission 5/3zł). As with most major landmarks, it was left in a heap of ruins during the Warsaw Uprising, before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Borgward IV - a remote-controlled demolition vehicle used by the German army.QF/G-4, ul. Świętojańska 8, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Open 06:00-20:00; Sun 07:0022:00.

Old Town Museums

When it was rebuilt, Warsaw implemented a vision of its Old Town as a place of culture. Today it harbours a remarkable number of museums! You may already know the famous ones (Royal Castle, Museum of Warsaw) but there are many more gems tucked into the gorgeous little tenement homes and stone buildings around this neighborhood. So here we're highlighting some of the other impressive spaces:

Museum of Dollhouses Games and Toys: Over 150 detailed historical dollhouses, plus other minature settings, and old toys! The two permanent exhibits show handcrafted models, costumes and toys, while also demonstrating how tastes and fashions have changed over time. More on p.76 Qul. Podwale 15.

Museum World of Illusion: A nice reward for the kids, the exhibits will fool your eyes and meld your mind just a bit. Colors, lights and illusions! perfect for anyone who wants to learn the extent to which the mind can be easily tricked by the eye. More on p.84 QRynek Starego Miasta 21.

Pharmacy Museum: Travel back in time to a charmingly antiquated interwar 'apteka.' find glass vials and beakers, wooden furnishings, period advertisements and vintage pharmaceutical equipment. Nominated for 'European Museum of the Year 2022.' More on p.78 Qul. Piwna 31/33

Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre: This small branch of the Warsaw Museum focuses on the architectural history of the Old Town - its destruction during World War II, the rebuilding efforts thereafter, and circumstances of its eventual entry on the UNESCO World Heritage List. More p.45 Qul. Brzozowa 11/13.

The Royal Route

The Royal Route is lined with plenty of spots for outdoor dining in the spring.

Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle (p.40) on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Isle (p.60), en route to Wilanów Palace (p.62) in the district of the same name. Officially covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great many of Warsaw’s historical buildings, parks and monuments along the way, making a trip down at least part of the ‘path of the kings’ - be it on foot, by bike, or motorised scooter - a fine opportunity to see the heart and soul of the capital.

WALKING TOUR

In lieu of the full 11km traverse, this walking tour picks up at the end of the Old Town Walking Tour (p.38) on Plac Zamkowy and guides you gently down Warsaw’s two main high streets - ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście and ul. Nowy Świat  - to the ironic/ iconic Palm Tree fittingly at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie (Jerusalem Street). An easy 2km/20mins on foot, along the way or very nearby you’ll find many wonderful restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, so use the rest of our guide to plan your pit stops. Once you've exhausted these options, continue on the Royal Route to Łazienki and Wilanów (while resting your feet) should you choose to, or veer off to the center of the city and see the Palace of Culture or grab a good bite to eat.

1 King Sigismund's Column

We'll start at the iconic column in front of the Royal Castle, which effectively begins the transition between Old Town and Royal Route. Built in honour of the man who moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa - this 22m column was erected back in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby beside the Royal Castle and has become a kind of meeting point for friends, tourists and everyone in between! QF-4, Pl. Zamkowy

2 St. Anne’s Church & Tower

St. Anne’s survived the war with a few scratches and a bombed-out roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished in 1949 when the careless construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel led to landslides and huge cracks in the floor of the church, which threatened to collapse; it took 400 people two weeks to stabilise the foundations. Interestingly, St. Anne’s also found disaster in the 17th century, when it survived the Swedish Deluge only to be the victim of arson two years later. The classical façade dates from 1788 and the interior holds even more classical and rococo details. The real reason to visit, however, are the splendid views from the tower - worth the 147-step climb (church open 7:00-19:00 weekdays; Sat 9:0019:00; Sun 9:00-22:00. Tower hours below) 10/7zł. Call +48 22 374 94 84).QG-4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 572 55 12 54, www. swanna.waw.pl. Tower open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:0021:00. In May: 10:00-21:00; Sat, Sun, 11:00-22:00.

3 Adam Mickiewicz Monument

Patriot and poet Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855) is Poland’s greatest literary hero. Known as the ‘Father of Polish Romanticism,’ his epic poems and dramas served as inspiration for insurrections against the imperial powers that had partitioned Poland out of existence in the late 18th century. Born to an upper class Polish family in what is today Belarus, Mickiewicz attended university in Vilnius, where he began publishing his poems and became involved in political activities against imperial Russia, which now occupied the former territory of the PolishLithuanian Commonwealth. These activities saw him exiled to Russia in 1824, but Mickiewicz was able to leverage connections he made in the salons of

Moscow and St. Petersburg to escape to the west in 1830, eventually settling in Paris. A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea in 1855. His body today lies with those of the Polish kings in Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral. To learn more, visit the Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature on the Old Town Square (F-4).

This monument was first unveiled in 1898 on the 100th anniversary of Mickiewicz’s birth. Sculpted by Cyprian Godebski, the monument was destroyed by the Nazis, however, after WWII, Polish soldiers recovered Mickiewicz’s head and other demolished parts in Hamburg. Sculptor Jan Szczepkowski was able to produce a copy of the original sculpture, which was unveiled, along with its restored surroundings, in 1950. Q G - 5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21-23, M Nowy ŚwiatUniwersytet.

4 ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście

Krakowskie Przedmieście is easily one of Poland’s most prestigious and well-known streets - the price tag of the rents matches the prestige! The street stretches from the Royal Castle in the Old Town (p.40) until it blends into ul. Nowy Świat. It is along the length of this street, and beyond, that you will easily find our list of things to see along the way - it’s almost impossible to get lost! As you walk along the route, be sure to stop at any of the 15 Chopin Benches. Designed by Professor Jerzy Porębski, they feature a button, when pressed, unleash a 30 second torrent of Chopin. Each bench contains descriptions in EN/PL to the site’s relevance to the composer. This is a delightful walk down one of the prettiest parts of the city. QG-4, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

5 Presidential Palace

Guarded by lions and stern-looking soldiers, of all the landmarks that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It then passed into the hands of various aristocratic families, becoming famed for its banquets in the 18th century - the most extravagant of which marked the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million PLN was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests.

Poniatowski proved to be one of the nation’s most controversial monarchs - and also its last. Among his successes was the Constitution of May 3, 1791 Signed on these very grounds, it was the

2nd such document in the world, after the US Constitution. The large monument in front of the Palace is of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski A Polish general, he defended Warsaw during the Kościuszko Uprising and eventually died in the service of Napoleon.

After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, entertaining many a visiting Tsar before burning down in 1852. At the beginning of the 20th century an entire wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918, the Palace was commandeered to serve as home for the Prime Minister, and somehow it survived WWII. More momentous events came in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out. QG-5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

Crossroads!

Carry on down the Royal Route? Or perhaps hang a right after the Hotel Europejski down ul. Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza towards Plac Piłsudskiego (p.30)? Choose the latter to see Warsaw’s largest square and escape the urban hub-bub via the lovely Saxon Garden, a stroll through which leads you into the City Centre and on a path to Hala Gwardii (E-6) and Hala Mirowska (D-6) - two massive indoor markets 15-20mins on foot from where you’re standing.

6 Bristol & Europejski Hotels

Two of the biggest, most famous landmarks on prestigious ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście are former palaces turned luxury hotels today. The first is Hotel Bristol at number 42/44. First built in 1900, a brass plaque outside boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name a few. In 1993 it was restored to its pre-war glory and the re-opening ceremony was such a big deal, it was attended by Ms. Margaret Thatcher. Refreshed repeatedly since, it is certainly among the very top hotels in the capital, boasting an interior by world-renowned designer Anita Rosato that blends secessionist and art deco glamour with modern luxury. If you can’t afford to spend the night, you can still drop in to the wonderfully old school Cafe Bristol - a perfect place for coffee or breakfast.

Across the street is the revamped Raffles Hotel Europejski. The first hotel to reopen after WWII, it entered Varsovian folklore in 1967 when a group of young upstarts calling themselves ‘the Rolling Stones’ stayed here, under the watchful eye of the authorities, and had themselves quite a time tipping back vodkas in the hotel bar. In 2018 the hotel was refurbed for the Raffles brand and today it is a stunning luxury space full of contemporary art and custom furnishings. If you want to have your proverbial socks knocked off, explore the building’s many first-rate dining and drinking venues, Though you might not be able to afford anything, you can still wander through Europejski Boutiques - the most exclusive shopping experience in the country.QG-5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, 13, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet.

7 Chopin Benches

The good city of Warsaw has devised one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and that’s by way of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at key sites connected with his life since 2019. Made of cast iron and polished black granite, these benches feature a button which, when pressed, unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also come equipped with a route map as well as brief explanations in Polish and English as to the site’s relevance to Chopin. Each one comes inscribed with a QR code – scan it and download the Chopin App to access audioguides, Chopin melodies, facts, figures and photographs. This is, at the very least, a fun little trick to show your friends as you sit down for a much-needed rest while exploring the Old Town and Royal Route!QG-6, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, www.biuro.chopin2010.pl

Eat & Drink

Cucina Mia (Sheraton Grand Warsaw): Elegant, traditional Italian dishes bursting with flavor from earthy truffles to Amalfi lemons and fresh Sicilian fish. Qp.95

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi: Immense portions of traditional Polish fare and charming service. What's not to like?.Qp.96.

Bar and Books Podwale: This classy, colonial bar is the height of sophistication. Dimly lit, classic cocktails.QF-4, ul. Wąski Dunaj 20

Kufle i Kapsle: A delightful, modern interior with some killer craft beers, and great conversation. A good spot to join with friends on a weekend (or weekday!) night.Qp.107.

8 The University of Warsaw

Carry on further and you’re in Warsaw Universityland, the main campus of which lies beyond the grand gateway of number 26/28. Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw Uni was established here in 1816. The university had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the uni continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 48,000 students on the roll call, the university stands out as the largest and

Sciences.

arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning travel writer Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and the poet Julian Tuwim. Q G - 6, Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28, M Nowy Świat-Uniwersytet, www.en.uw.edu.pl

9 Holy Cross Church

No self-respecting Chopin fan (is that you?) can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Smuggled out of Paris in a jar of booze by his sister (true story), Chopin’s heart was brought to the church in accordance with his final wishes in 1882 and is sealed in an urn behind a tablet bearing his likeness, specially carved by Leonardo Marconi.

Although Chopin’s ticker serves as the church’s key draw there are several other notable features and funereal remains to tempt you inside this astonishing Baroque creation. These include another urn with the remains of Nobel Prize-winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski. The organ, built in Salzburg in 1925, is also the largest in Warsaw.

Throughout a history that dates back to the 15th century, Holy Cross Church has played a role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul. Masses start at 6:00 a.m. and run daily at designated times. Parish hours are below.QG-6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. Open 10:00-11:30; 13:00-16:00; Sun 14:00-16:00.

10 Nicolaus Copernicus Monument

The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, Copernicus made his observations alone, a century before the invention of the telescope. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. Though obvious today, this was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although those who propagated his ideas were burned at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no

turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy.

The statue itself was unveiled in 1830 and has seen its share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a new plaque here insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp! - a German. A boy scout named Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the monument, then dynamited a few others for good measure. The statue was recovered after the war, and Dawidowski entered Polish folklore for his bravery. QG-6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, Uniwersytet.

11 ul. Nowy Świat

The name of this street means is an apt description; just south of ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, Nowy Świat has a similar look to the Old Town but instead of museums and history, you’ll find food, beer, live music and a street constantly bursting at the seams with life.

Old Town, Nowy Swiat was also razed during WWII, but was rebuilt almost immediately following a neo-classical style, rather than its pre-war Art Nouveau style. Legend (and history) goes that this street was rebuilt based partly on paintings of its pre-war ancestor. Make sure to stop by for some chocolate nosh and coffee, or for great pastries. If it’s nightlife you’re after, there’s plenty of bars: Dom Whisky Cocktail Bar 4 a.m. all week) will serve all the bright colored drinks you want; across the street, a craft beer menu that will make even the snobbiest beer snob happy. We could go on, but there is a lot in the way of eating and drinking and fun. Finish your journey by taking in the towering 12 at the intersection between Nowy Świat and Al. Jerozolimskie, an art installation that’s a beloved little touch of the tropics in the middle of town.

Powiśle: Warsaw’s Riverside District

Once a mundane area of apartment blocks and industrial decay, over the past two decades Powiśle has transformed into one of Warsaw’s most intriguing and eclectic areas to explore.

Considering its plum location along the riverside, it’s hard to believe that this large neighbourhood was essentially a cultural dead zone until skyrocketing rent costs in the centre forced Warsaw to reconsider its potential. Now, Powiśle has become a hotspot for everything cool, young and happening in Warsaw, so much so that the city decided to recently open a gorgeous pedestrian bridge tying the Praga (p.57) area east of the river to Powiśle (you can access it via Ul. Karowa in Powiśle or Ul. Okrzei in Praga.) The history of Powiśle's growth is interesting: Warsaw University was the first to pitch a tent in the area, creating a draw since 2002, and the adjacent opening of the Copernicus Science Centre (p.56) in 2009 invited further cultural investments. Then the Metro (2015) helped make it into a popular place for public recreation. The redevelopment of the former Elektrownia Powiśle (p.55) power plant into a space for events, dining and shopping (2020) typifies the high-powered investment taking place here today. Still, Powiśle maintains an authentic local vibe thanks to its balance of both trendsetting gastro spots and boho dives (like the iconic rotund Warszawa Powiśle bar I-7). Roll yourself downhill towards the river from Warsaw’s Old Town or City Centre to discover what’s good in this hood!

What to See

1 Powiśle Mermaid Statue

Warsaw’s ‘Syrenka’ - the iconic freshwater warrior mermaid - has been representing the Polish capital since time immemorial. The monument here is the second-most famous statue of the city’s symbol (the first being on the Old Town Square, (p.43), though this one actually overlooks the river the mythical icon is alleged to have dwelled in.

At 2.75 metres tall, the the bronze monument was created by sculptor Ludwika Nitschowa and unveiled in June 1939, just months before the outbreak of WWII; remarkably it stood unscathed in this exact spot throughout the entire war while the rest of Warsaw's left bank was devastated.r. Q I - 6, Bulwar Bohdana GrzymałySiedleckiego (near Most Świętokrzyski), M Centrum Nauki Kopernik.

2 Vistula River Boulevards

Warsaw has modernised and improved its left bank dramatically in the last decade. The Powiśle boulevards flanking the Świętokrzyski Bridge and leading north to the Old Town have seen the most development and are now a popular

thoroughfare for walking, running, cycling and skating, as well as bars, cafes and restaurants - particularly in the warmer months - plus parks and leisure spaces.

Even if it's not the depth of summer, this is the perfect place to wander and lounge. The views are still top-notch, with great photo ops up and down the river. But keep an eye out as the weather gets warmer: the barges that line the river will start opening up, and you'll begin to see stalls selling food and drinks (mostly the latter). If you catch it on the right warm day, you can enjoy a plethora of great food and booze outside. You can also use this boulevard to move easily up the city from the centre to the Old Town -- and cross over into Praga by way of the new pedestrian and cycling footbridge (p.57). This is a perfect spot for photos and the epitome of the kind of pedestrian space that Warsaw is increasingly becoming famous for.QI-6, Generała George’a Smitha Pattona, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.

3 Elektrownia Powiśle

Once one of the largest electrical power plants in Europe, Elektrownia Powiśle powered the Polish capital from 1904 to 2001 before it was closed and left to crumble. Purchased by a developer in 2016, the historic industrial site was transformed into a multifunctional, mixed-use urban centre. Covering a massive 50,000m2, much of the site has been converted into offices, apartments and a hotel, but a remaining 15,000m2 in the former boiler and engine buildings comprises commercial space for retail, gastronomy and wellness.

Reopened in 2020, today Elektrownia offers four levels of shopping, and is a culinary hotspot with over 40 restaurants bars and cafes across the complex (see their Food Hall on p.102). Additionally, there is a 1500m2 Beauty Hall offering hundreddts of

Eat & Drink

When it’s time for a rest or a feed, there are many worthy venues on and around ul. Solec - one of the main streets in the area, as well as numerous food trucks and barges moored up along the river. Also, Elektrownia Powiśle has an entire food hall inside, so your options are manifold. Here are a few other notable venues in the neighbourhood:

Food Hall Elektrownia Powiśle: Food from around the world! Find something for everyone at the stalls that offer Thai, Italian, American, Mexican and more types of cuisineQp.102.

Champs Sports Bar: The perfect place to watch the game, with a great beer offer and some tasty pub snacksQI-6, ul. Wybrzeze Kosciuszkowskie 43A.

Rozbrat 20: This Michelin-starred restaurant is the ideal date night spot with fresh flavors delivered in expert fashion, and tastes from Poland, France and England. This is food done very well, and meant to impress.Qp.101.

cosmetic treatments from multiple beauty concepts. Events are frequently hosted in the courtyards between the buildings, including a regular farmer’s market, yoga lessons and film screenings. There are plenty of reasons to check out one of Warsaw’s most exciting urban renewal projects in every season, but we particularly like the abilitiy to transition easily between indoor and outdoor activities here. QH/I-6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 11:0021:00. Food Hall open 12:00-23:00, Fri 12:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-23:00. T­U­6­K

4 Copernicus Science Centre

An example of EU funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe , and one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions. The fun starts as soon as you encounter the museum’s very own ‘Robothespian’ - an interactive humanoid robot - at the front doors, before exploring several hundred hands-on exhibits across two floors that will have you actively pressing buttons, answering quizzes, and even exerting yourself physically. In addition to temporary exhibits and the all-ages ‘Experiment Zone,’ there are zones specially designed for the youngest visitors up to teens and adults. It’s easy to declare that the CSC is well-

worth a few hours of your time and will impress you with its design and range of experiments. Factor in the main floor cafeteria, cafe, and the packed Science Store (potentially the best spot for children’s gifts in Warsaw), and it’s a one-stop day of fun. Visiting time: 3-4hrs.Q I - 6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, M Centrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.kopernik.org.pl Centre

Open 09:00-18:00; Fri 09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 09:0019:00. Closed 1st Mon of every month. Roof Garden: Closed Nov-April. Open May : 10:00-20:00; www. kopernik.org.pl/en/planetarium. Admission 48/34zł; holidays & weekends 50/36zł; planetarium 34/24zł.

U5 Planetarium of the Copernicus Science Centre

A trip to outer space is made simple at the Planetarium of the Copernicus Science Centre , which is tucked behind the giant Copernicus Science Centre ) as its own distinct venue. Visitors can choose different 40-minute films (which require headsets for English and Russian) that are geared towards different age ranges and interests. Inside, the audience is immersed in the solar system thanks to a spherical screen that surrounds the 139 seats on all sides.

Four digital projectors display images of the starry sky (we’re talking 20 million points of light) and simulate space travel to bring planets and moons into view - the whole experience is visually stunning! Before each film, there is a 20min live show about the skies over Warsaw that change with the seasons.

School groups dominate the Planetarium’s seats during daytime hours, therefore, we can’t stress enough that booking in advance is highly recommended. You can enjoy the permanent exhibition “ Look: there’s the Earth! ” A not-tobe-missed attraction (2D movies cost 34/24zł).

A visit to the planetarium is a sensory experience, one which he wholly recommend you try out. Trust us, you won’t regret it. Science geek, over and out.

Q H - 5, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, M Centrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www.planetarium.kopernik.org.pl . Open 09:00-18:30; Thu 9:00-20:00; Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10.00-20.00; Sun 10:00-19:30; Mon 09:00-15:30. Closed the 1st Monday of every month. Admission 34/24zł. Special screenings 49zł. U

6 Warsaw University Library Rooftop Gardens

Traditionally speaking, rooftops are the preserve of chimney sweeps, superheroes and Santa, but visit the Warsaw University Library (BUW) building and that opinion will quickly change. Topping off the bizarre oxidised green building is a lovely two-level rooftop garden filled with bridges, streams and sculptures that covers an entire hectare; there’s even a fishpond and a stone fountain mixed in among the oak trees and Japanese spirea. Designed by Irena Bajerska and opened back in 2002, the garden affords panoramic views of lower left-bank Warsaw and across the river to Praga. A wonderful place to stop and rest in the heart of the city, take a picnic and sit amongst the groups of students taking time out from studying (ahem, napping). While you’re there, we also highly recommend visiting the BUW Gallery to see some fantastic Polish poster art (open 13:00-18:00, Sat 13:00-17:00, closed Sun; admission free).QH-5, ul. Dobra 56/66, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.buw. uw.edu.pl. Open 08:00-18:00. May-Sept 8:00-20:00. Library open Mon-Sat 07:00-01:00. Rooftop Gardens accessible April 1 - October 31 only. Admission free.

7 Magdalena Abakanowicz Footbridge

This long-awaited pedestrian footbridge opened in late March, connecting Praga on the east side of the river with Powiśle on the west. You can access it near Karowa Street in Powiśle (around Mariensztat below). The gorgeous bridge is the longest pedestrian bridge in Poland, and it's is meant for walkers and cyclers alike. In the warmer months, you'll likely find plenty of people meandering, some live music, some people selling ice cream and cotton candy. In the chillier months, make sure to bundle warmly as you cross the 502-metre structure, and enjoy some design features like viewing platforms and rest areas. The Polish name, Kładka na Wiśle, means "Footbridge on the Vistula River". If you want to connect from the Old Town to Centrum Praskie Koneser (p.65) this bridge is the way!QH-5, Karowa 6.

Choose Your Adventure!

From Powiśle it’s exceedingly easy to get to Praga (p.64) or the City Centre (p.28) through a lovely (albeit a little long) walk along the river toward the south. Alternatively, head north along the river to return to the Old Town (p.38) or check out New Town’s Multimedia Fountain (F-3), which is a popular attraction for young families; both are about 2km/20mins on foot.

Łazienki Park

In summer, Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Isle is the ultimate spot for photos. Photo: Paweł Czarnecki.

This glorious 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of Warsaw’s unparalleled highlights, adored year-round by locals and visitors alike. Although it seems as if half of Warsaw spends its fall Sundays here, the park is so vast that it never feels crowded and offers an enchanting opportunity to escape the capital’s modern-day gloom and get lost in its nostalgic past. Don’t mistake Łazienki for a simple city park; it is also a museum complex full of wonderful art and architecture. Don’t miss it.

The full/proper name of today’s park is ‘Łazienki Królewskie,’ which means ‘Royal Baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece, the Palace on the Isle

The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the nearby Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence.

It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden. Perfect for romantic strolls, family picnics and cultural outings, today the park is packed with gorgeous sculptures and monuments, palatial architecture and priceless art, lovely landscapes of bridges and ponds, plus cafes, restaurants and more. The whole park is a must when visiting the city -- don't miss it!

Tickets & Info

While the park is free, the indoor exhibits require a ticket

Ticket 1: Includes just sites: the Palace on the Isle, the Old Orangery, Myslewski Palace, Stables, Barracks: 60/30zł.

Ticket 2: Includes the Palace on the Isle, the Old Orangery, Myslewski Palace, 50/25zł

Ticket 2: Includes just the Cantonal Barracks and the Kubicki Stables, 30/15zł.

For all exhibits, kids under 7 & students under 26 1zł for all three tickets. Buy tickets from cash desks or machines at the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship.Q H - 12, M Politechnika, tel. (+48) 22 50 60 024, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl Park open daily 06:00-21:00. Free admission for the park itself; Indoor exhibitions open through April, Tues-Wed 9:00-16:00; Thu-Sat 10:00-18:00; Sun 10:00-16:00. From May 1-Sept 30, Tue, Wed 10:00-17:00; Thu, Fri, 10:00-18:00; Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-16:00. Closed Mon and holidays

Belvedere Palace

The Belvedere Palace was the residence of Polish presidents from 1918 to 1995 and then again during the presidency of Bronisław Komorowski from 2010-2015 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski, Lech Kaczyński and current president Andrzej Duda opted to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście) Built in 1694 and thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is essentially offlimits to visitors, but an eyeful to behold. A wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns, the best views and photo ops are fetched from outside the park on Al. Ujazdowskie.QH-12, ul. Belwederska 56.

Chopin Monument

Don’t miss this famous art nouveau sculpture of Warsaw’s favourite son, Fryderyk Chopin. Depicting the composer right here in Łazienki beneath a willow tree, the work by Wacław Szymankowski was erected in 1926. As part of the Nazi campaign against Polish culture it was dynamited by the Germans on May 31, 1940; as the story goes, the following day an unknown patriot placed a placard on the wreckage declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader.’ An original plaster-cast allowed the statue to be revived and this reconstruction was unveiled in 1958.QH-12.

Getting There

Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on ‘Al. Ujazdowskie’, including numbers 116 (from Old Town/Nowy Świat) and 180 (from Al. Jerozolimskie, bus stop ‘PKP Powiązki’); get off at the ‘Łazienki Królewskie’ bus stop. Accurate times and routes can be checked online at warsaw.jakdojade.pl

Old Orangery

A good place to start a visit to Łazienki, the Old Orangery is one of two ticket offices and tourist info points in the park. Originally erected in 1785-88 to house exotic trees through the once-harsh Polish winter, the sunny structure also harbours King Stanisław August’s Royal Theatre - one of the few surviving 18th century court theatres in Europe. Constructed out of wood and covered in marblised polychromes, the ground floor is rather modest with simple benches on risers, while the upper level features nine boxes with eight female figures gripping candleholders in between. Interestingly, the space above the boxes has been painted to create the illusion of yet another level, complete with an 18th-century court audience. The theatre is still used today to host chamber concerts. The other important aspect of the Old Orangery is the Royal Sculpture Gallery. Stanisław August collected hundreds of marble and plaster copies of the most famous sculptures from antiquity. Now, 120 of the most important of these casts are uniquely displayed inside the Orangery. Visiting time: 30mins.QI-11.

Palace on the Isle

The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre and therefore, a true must-visit when you're going to the park. Built as a Baroque bathhouse in 1683, the structure was converted into a Neoclassical residential palace in the late 1700s by King Stanisław August. Located on an island in the middle of a narrow lake, and connected by colonnaded bridges on each side, the façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors. Today, almost all of the palace can be visited, including the King’s private rooms. The main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, is decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. In 1793, King August converted the palace into the first modern public museum, displaying the most important paintings from his collection. Visiting time: 45-60mins.QI-11.

Myślewicki Palace

Built in the 1770s and 80s, this elegant semi-circular palace was originally conceived as King Stanisław August's primary residence, though it gradually shifted to more diplomatic functions, hosting official state soirees and accommodating foreign ministers. Designed in Early Classicist style, the unique recessed entrance is decorated with mythological sculptures. After a thorough renovation, the building again appears very much as it would have in the late 18th century, and a walk through the interiors - replete with original murals, furniture and art - is worth the short amount of time it takes to see them. Visiting time: 30mins.QJ-11.

Botanical Garden

Part of the University of Warsaw, these separate gardens at Łazienki have several greenhouses stuffed with exotic, weird and wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings in the crowds are the stunning rose gardens just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour when in full bloom, the gardens are the preferred subject matter of art students, who set up their easels early and paint until the guards kick them out at sunset. Open from March onwards.QH-11, Al. Ujazdowskie 4, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod.uw.edu.pl. From March to April open 10:00-18:00; May to Aug: 10:0020:00. Greenhouses open from Tuesday to Sunday. Admission 24/12zł (park and greenhouses), kids under 7 free.

Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship

Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to avid hunters and horse lovers, though the latter may have some trouble with all the mounted trophies. If the trophies are too much, you can skip the former Cantonists’ Barracks - built in 1826–1828 and full of hunting arms and taxidermied animals - and head straight to the Kubicki Stables, built 1825–1826 and home to an exhibit of horse-drawn carriages, saddles, harnesses and riding accessories. Visiting time: 1hrQJ-12, ul. Szwoleżerów 9. Admission 30/15zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 1zł. Fri free.

Eat & Drink

Łazienki has several cafes and restaurants, though most of them are very pricey. Head out of the main gates to Plac Unii Lubelskiej (H-12) for more casual options.

Belvedere: Located in the park’s New Orangery, this is one of Warsaw’s most prestigious restaurants and worth the money, but not for families after a day in the park.Q(p.98).

Być Może: This hip cafe/bistro bakes its own bread, offers all-day breakfast and daily lunch specials, and is perfect whether you’re craving coffee or wine. QH-12, ul. Bagatela 14.

DZiK (Dom Zabawy i Kultury): This old residence offers European cuisine and hosts a wide range of evening events, getting wild on weekends.QI-13, ul. Belwederska 44 A.

Viet's Baguette: This deli offers 21 varieties of banh mi, known as a 'Vietnamese hoagie.' A great place to stop in before you head to the park.QG/H-12, ul. Puławska 7/9.

Rest. Baczewskich: Delightful, highly rated food with an incredible atmosphere, their own smokehouse, and a wide range of liquers. QH-11, ul. Jazdów 1b.

Wilanów

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century 45ha palace and garden complex 10km south of the centre.

Essential visiting for anyone wishing to understand the former grandeur of the Polish capital, Wilanów is more than just a palace. As one of the few existing remnants of the era when Poland was a vast kingdom stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea, today it also represents the European splendour and sophistication that was lost and few today associate with Warsaw. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings also represent the height of Polish Baroque and are collectively one of Poland’s greatest cultural treasures. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend most of a day relaxing and taking in the sites here.

Getting There

10km south of the centre, Wilanów is best reached by bus or taxi, though the latter costs 35-40zł and essentially takes the same amount of time: 25-35mins. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop. From Plac Zamkowy (F-4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) or Łazienki Park (H-11) take buses 116 or 180. From Warszawa Centralna train station (E-8) take bus 519. For exact times and routes, check warsaw.jakdojade.pl

What to See

Wilanów Park & Gardens

The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park developed over the centuries. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s. Comprising a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscape park and the so-called English-Chinese landscape park, recent revitalisation works and archaeological digs discovered several arctefats, including ceramics dating from the 12th century. The park opens daily Until 26 April, 9:00-20:00; until September 9:0021:00.QP-2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.pl. Park Admission 15/5zł, Thu free (0zł ticket is still required).

Wilanów Palace Museum

The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. The first is the upstairs Polish Portrait Gallery - comprising room after room of portraits of the rich and the powerful from the 16-19th century.

Next you’ll find yourself downstairs in the Wilanów Palace Residence, featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. Most impressive are the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. Visiting time: 2hrs.QP-2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www. wilanow-palac.pl. Open 10:00–16:00. Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission (includes park admission) 70/35zł, kids 7-16 1zł, kids under 7 free; Thu free. U

Poster Museum

After an over 3-year absence from Warsaw’s museum scene, the Poster Museum is back! The beloved museum reopened this year displaying excellent new exhibits. Start with the Polish poster collection, with over 36,000 titles. The foreign poster collection is also incredible -- with an unrivaled collection of posters 25,000 posters from around the world. At almost 60,000 pieces, this is reportedly the largest poster collection in the world. The museum focuses on the artistic merits of the posters rather than their documentary value and regularly has events. QP-2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl. Open 10.00-18.00; closed Mon. Admission 22/16zł.

Potocki Mausoleum

An extraordinary piece of funerary art, befitting two of Poland’s most powerful, wealthy and influential families, this tomb in Wilanów Park was dedicated to Stanisław Kostka Potocki and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son Aleksander. The mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone. Consisting of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each corner, on the sarcophagus itself are the figures of the deceased.QO-2, Wilanów Park.

St. Anne’s Church

A church has stood on this site since the 1300s, when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here, followed by a Gothic version in the 16th century that stood throughout Sobieski’s day. In 1772 the new brick Church of St. Anne was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski. In the surrounding gardens you will find terracotta shrines marking the Stations of the Cross, while the crypt houses the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suffered damage during both world wars and was used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who looted and damaged it. The bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them.QO-2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 18, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.pl. Open 07:0019:00; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-22:00.

Wilanów Lake & Island

Not only is the lake is open, but during the warmer months, you can actually rent a boat to take out on the water! Seasonal gondolas complete with gondoliers, paddle boats, and kayaks are all on the water from May starting at 40/20zł to rent. Apart from the scenery, a trip here will reward you with a glimpse of Enrico Marconi’s strange, Gothic-inspired pump room, and an adventure to the island at the centre of the lake reveals a monument to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski, who served in the army of the Duchy of Warsaw and gave his life at Wilanów fighting the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809.QP-3, ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16. Open 10:00-21:00.

Praga: Warsaw’s Alternative District

TARGOWA

WYB.SZCZECIŃSKIE

‘Gritty’ and ‘boho’ are just two of the terms tossed around to describe Praga, Warsaw’s east riverside district

Once disregarded due to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, today an urban revival makes Praga worth visiting – especially for those looking to get off the tourist trail and see more of the city’s artsy side. The current standard-bearer for cool, folks here prefer their fun improvised and their bars dark. Filled with murals and hip hangouts, you can easily spend a day checking out the vibes of this alternative district across from the Old Town.

Getting to Praga

The easiest way to get to Praga is to take the M2 Metro to ‘Dworzec Wileński’ (eastbound to ‘Trocka’), and you’ll be in the heart of the district. From Warszawa Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the river to the ‘Park Praski’ stop. If you’re in the Old Town simply walk down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarności and the ‘Stare Miasto’ stop, taking trams 4, 13, 20, 23 and 26 to ‘Park Praski.’

1 Praga Museum of Warsaw

Located in the oldest surviving residential buildings on Warsaw’s right bank, this modern museum boasts interactive exhibits that tell the story of Praga: its people, history, industry, bazaars and more. The cellars include the Residents’ Stories Archive and two pre-war Jewish prayer rooms with original wall paintings, and there’s even an observation terrace. This is not one of the most well-known museums in Warsaw, but is certainly one of the most interesting. Well worth a visit. Visiting time: 1.5-2hrs.QJ-3, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, www.muzeumpragi.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Thu 11:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, permanent exhibit only 15/10zł, temporary exhibits 10/8zł; Thu free. U

2 ul. Ząbkowska

Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated and its artistic vibe more felt than on Ząbkowska. Originally lined with timber frame houses, a fire in 1868 led to their replacement with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street so hard that wholesale demolition was seriously considered, but somehow it endured and today many of the buildings have been restored and filled with lively galleries and bars. You’ll know you’ve arrived at Praga’s high street when you discover the explosion of murals and street art near ul. Targowa. Plus, a great thrifting hub -- see the next page for more!QJ-3, ul. Ząbkowska, MDworzec Wileński.

Eat & Drink

Locals will tell you that the best part of Praga isn’t the sightseeing, but the nightlife. The area’s main attraction is a vodka museum after all. You’ll find plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars in and around Centrum Praskie Koneser, along ul. Ząbkowska and ul. Okrzei. Here are some of the best hangouts in Praga:

3/4 Koneser Bar: Head straight to this bar hidden on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum to try their delicious alcohol infusions and cocktails, and enjoy beautiful views.Qp.106

Setki Powodów: There are 100 reasons why you should swing by, but one of the main ones is its tantalising food menu (international cuisine) and a kicking live music roster!Qp.97

Yes! Butcher Shop & Bistro: This is meat done very well. Find cuts of all your favorites (ribeye, tomahawk and more) sourced from countries known for their beef. Also the option to dine in or take away. Qp.91.

3 Museum of Printing

This refurbished branch of the Museum of Warsaw boasts a collection of historical printing presses, fonts, bookbinding tools, and other paraphernalia for publishing books and pamphlets of all kinds. Keep an eye out for temporary exhibitions which put printing in its historical context - past exhibitions zoned in on invitations, picture book illustrations, and communist-era underground publishers.

Average visiting time: 30mins.QJ-3, ul. Ząbkowska 23/25, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 620 60 42, www.muzeumdrukarstwa.muzeumwarszawy.pl/en/ Open 9:00–17:00; closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł. Thu free.

4 Centrum Praskie Koneser

Once the Koneser Vodka Factory (1897-2007), this large industrial site lay mostly derelict before getting a major revamp in recent years and becoming Centrum Praskie Koneser. Interesting from an architecture and urban renewal standpoint, the complex includes the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art, art galleries and dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars and shops! In the summer, this is the place to spend a day wandering outside, checking out the gorgeous architecture. QK-2, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu T­U­E­6­­­­

Thrifting Culture

Praga is known for many things but locals know that one of its best attributes is its thrifting culture. The neighborhood is a hotbed of thrift stores, charity shops, and second-hand stores. Here’s our suggested starting route. Get off at the Kijowska tram stop, begin on the south end of Ul. Targowa and work your way north!

Jeila Ciucholand:  With two stories and tons of men’s and women’s clothing, this is the perfect starting point. Find staple shirts, skirts, etc for around 10-20 Zł. Plus, some cool home items upstairs!QK-4, ul. Targowa 20B.

Z 2 Ręki:  Though this mostly has women's clothes it's well worth it: items are chic, modern and totally discredit the stereotype of thrifted clothing as "frumpy." Plus, thrift store prices make this spot a mustQJ-4, Targowa 59.

Kopalnia: There’s more to visit on Targowa, but let’s jump off for a bit and go to Kopalnia - this store is clothing, but also furniture, books, art, ceramics and so much more. It’s a little more expensive but so well-curated and the items are so nice that a visit is a must (say hi to the owner’s pet turtle while you’re there!).QK-2, ul. Białostocka 9.

5 Polish Vodka Museum

Set inside a former vodka factory, this multimedia museum is visited with a live tour guide or audio guide. The experience takes you from the origins of vodka to modern production, showing you plenty of paraphernalia and treating you to a tasting of this strong spirit. This is a must for anyone interested in the history of Poland's national drink (and for anyone who wants to try a sip). Entries are timed so book in advance. Visiting time: 1.5hrs.QK-2, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl. Open 12:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. From 63zł. 6

6 Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska

One of the most desirable districts of Warsaw; with property prices staunchly high, the neighbourhood is home to the nouveau riche, the intelligentsia and much of the capital’s art community. Now in the shadow of the National Stadium, the sporting complex plays a major role in bringing visitors to the focal point of the area: ul. Francuska, which hosts trendy bars, cafes, restaurants and mix of boutique

and old-school shops - Saska Kępa is as close as Warsaw gets to the ‘Little Village’ areas of London or Paris or Greenwich Village in NYC. As such, it’s a great place to wander around, people watch, take in cafe culture on Francuska, or marvel at the architecture, including majestic 19th century manor houses, superb examples of 1920s and ‘30s modernism, and more. QL-6/7/8, ul. Francuska, MDworzec Wileński.

7 Skaryszewski Park

Skaryszewski Park is one of the most beautiful in Warsaw - you’ll find a pleasant 55 hectare site filled with wide alleys originally designed for horsedrawn carriages, man-made hills, waterfalls, lakes and landscaped flowerbeds. Within its manicured grounds are several points of interest, including a monument commemorating Allied pilots who flew missions to supply insurgents fighting in the Warsaw Uprising. The memorial is located at the exact site where B24 bomber was shot down in 1944, killing all but one of the seven crew on board.QL-5/6, Al. Zieleniecka, MStadion Narodowy.

8 PGE National

Stadium

Opened January, 2012, PGE Narodowy can hold 58,000 fans. The construction was built using hundreds of 45m pillars driven into the ground to stabilise the 25m of war rubble the stadium sits atop. History buffs will note the Socialist era ‘Relay’ statue at the entrance has been preserved in a nod to the site’s heritage – it was here that Stadion Dziesięciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium) stood, built in the 1950s to mark the anniversary of the end of WWII. A great spot to watch a match or mega-concerts (Taylor Swift, Harry Styles and more perform here). Most tours range 27-43zł Q K- 6, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, M Stadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 295 95 95, rezerwacje@pgenarodowy.pl, www.pgenarodowy.pl

9 Warsaw Zoo

Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. In total there are 13,000 animals here, across 500 species. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, he helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo.QH-3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:0018:00. April-Sept 35/25 zł; Oct-March 25/20 zł.

Taste the Story of Chocolate

Step into a multisensory world where chocolate comes alive through every sense. At the E.Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum you can smell roasted cocoa, taste freshly made chocolate, hear the sounds of the factory and explore interactive exhibits that reveal the craft and heritage behind every bite.

Essential Day Trips

The Orientarium Zoo is a delight for kids and adults alike. Warsaw is jam-packed with things to do (see, well, all the previous pages in this guide). But sometimes you want a change of scenery. One amazing thing about Warsaw is its access to other areas — being the capital, it’s a kind of hub for travel to major Polish cities and towns. So when you have a day to spare, head on over to Warszawa Centralna and hop on a train! Here are our essential day trips.

Near Warsaw

First, we recommend going one hour west (by car) to Żelazowa Wola, where you'll find the birthplace of famed composer Fryderyk Chopin (p. 75 ). Whether you're a music lover or just a lover of 19th century vibes, this trip is a must. Amid the leafy neighborhood, you'll find the actual home Chopin was born and raised in, now a museum . The renovated museum celebrates the man, the myth, the legend himself, and also pays tribute to the museum's dramatic history. Filled with early 19th century decor, keepsakes, instruments and paintings, many visitors attest to the haunting spirit of Chopin that lingers throughout. Outside, the impressively landscaped gardens feature four Chopin monuments and are perfect for a stroll as craftily hidden speakers serenade you with his music. About 50km west of Warsaw, Żelazowa Wola can be reached in two hours by bus or train, making the entire visit round-trip about 4hrs. Highly recommended for a beautiful slice of Polish history.

Private Tours

VIP SERVICE

Transport&Private Tours

This private car service, offering trips for individuals and groups, makes it easy to travel around Warsaw and beyond. In addition to individuals, VIP also offers services for conferences, business events, and special occassions - they actually handle transport logistics for participants and organizers. You might just choose to zip around Warsaw in style, or you can venture outside of the city: tours go to Kraków, Gdańsk, Wrocław, Łódź, Lublin and more. You can either opt to have a driver who remains at your disposal all day, or choose alternative forms of transportation. They even help book concert tickets and restaurants! QAl. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. (+48) 693 70 60 60, www.vip-service.pl/.

Krak ów

Next, we recommend a trip down to Kraków. First, we recommend going to Kraków. The charming medieval city is like something out of a storybook, with a gorgeous medieval market square that's lined with restaurants and cafes, a magical castle on a hill (and a fire-breathing dragon!), and architecture that will have you stopping every two seconds to take another picture. Plus, this was the only major city not bombed to rubble during WWII, so much of this architecture is original and old.

Clearly, there's tons to see in Kraków but one of the best for a day trip, is the Wieliczka Salt Mine —and we really do mean a day trip. Set aside a whole day for this one. There are multiple tours through these incredible, cavernous mines, and along the way you can see mining tools, saline lakes, magestic chambers and more. This is a once-in-a-lifetime kind of experience. We recommend doing the easiest and most popular way to visit: via the traditional 'Tourist Route.' The Wieliczka Salt Mine Tourist Route takes you through 3.5km of the underground mine over the first 3 of its 9 levels, reaching a maximum depth of 135 metres below ground. The whole tour takes about 2 to 3 hours and you'll see a sailine lake, a chapel and more!

Łódź

Finally, we highly recommend a visit to Łódź - just one hour away by train! This post-industrial city is booming, with a lovely main street (ul. Piotrkowska) that’s packed with bars, restaurants, and shops. Plus, there are tons of museums, incredible parks, monuments and events all the time. In addition to just wandering the streets, we recommend a trip to Orientarium Zoo, a massive (and massively popular) zoo with tons of animals from Southeast Asia (35 land species and 180 acquatic species) across three levels. Here, you can see elephants, orangutans, sun bears, macaques, and more in the land section. In the water section, prepare to see sharks, rays, and a gharial crocodile named Kraken. You can participate in daily feedings and you can even do an overnight stay in a shark tunnel! There are also VIP evenings, and workshops. An absolute must.

Another key spot in Łódź is Aquapark Fala — honestly the best waterpark/spa center in the entire country and one of the largest! With 19 water slides (including some incredibly steep ones) and pools for swimming, it's great for thrill-seekers and kids. But it's also great for relaxing. In fact, its wellness center is simply incredible: six Finnish saunas, infrared and steam rooms, sound therapy, a snow grotto... the list goes on. You will come out feeling lika whole new person!

Art, History & Culture

Warsaw’s combination of these three is what makes it so exciting. Whether you’re an art lover, amateur historian, or tracing your roots, Warsaw’s heady brew of imperial grandeur, prewar glamour, 20th century tragedy, socialist austerity and present-day dynamism makes it unique in Europe and offers much to the visitor. Use this chapter of the guide to discover the capital’s art spaces and current exhibitions, find out about museums ranging from niche to national, and learn about sites related to some of the most important events in Warsaw’s modern history.

Warsaw’s Best Museums & Art Spaces

Warsaw is the centre of Poland’s contemporary art scene and home to countless pieces of priceless art. While Kraków’s collections skew more historical, Warsaw boasts a great variety of exhibits showcasing younger artists as well as the nation’s masters. When it comes to art tourism, temporary exhibits are often as or more important than permanent collections, so check the current exhibitions on p.72.

1 Warsaw Rising Museum

Chronicling the heroism and tragedy of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, this modern museum packed with multimedia displays is one of the best in Poland! QSee p.83

2 National Museum

An incredible museum with some of the best art in the country! Polish painters, international painters and even Ancient Greek and Egyptian Artefacts!QSee p.79.

3 melt museum

A spectacle of light, color, and sound, this museum is a must-visit that uses modern technology to take visitors on a journey that awakens the senses. QSee p.75.

Murals & Street Art

What about art in public spaces? Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with Polish print advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street art as well. And they do. In Warsaw both graffiti art and large-scale murals are a common sight, with the city and private businesses even inviting international artists to do installations. You’ll find a particularly high volume of murals on buildings in Praga, Wola and around the City Centre, where the urban landscape is changing most rapidly. Although it’s a dynamic situation, as many murals are installed on buildings that later become designated for demolition, at WIYP we keep a close eye on murals and urban art, marking major works on all of our maps; just look for the spray can icon Not only that, but we’ve meticulously put it all online with exact GPS coordinates, so that your smartphone can do the work of leading you directly to Warsaw’s alternative artistic visions.

4 Museum of Warsaw

The history of Warsaw is fantastically told in this revamped museum based in eleven historic tenement houses. An Old Town must-see for everyone.QSee p.44

5 POLIN

One thousand years of Polish Jewish history is chronicled in this incredibly impressive, popular museum. One of the top spots in the city.QSee p.81.

6 Museum of Dollhouses, Games and Toys

With tons of dolls and toys from around the world and the last century, this museum delights and fascinates -- all with a healthy dose of nostalgia and whimsy.QSee p.76.

Temporary Exhibits

It’s not uncommon for some temporary exhibits to be major events, even overshadowing the permanent collections of local museums. Of the literal hundreds of art events across Warsaw, here are a few picks for the coming months. For more, as well as other events in the capital, head to our website.

26.10 - 31.12 » Artificial Dreams

The highly popular melt museum has introduced a new permanent exhibit that highlights the connection between art and technology, specifically AI. The creators of the exhibition call it a “technoutopia meets cyberpunk vision of the future.” The exhibit, Artificial Dreams takes visitors to unknown realms of the relationship between humans and artificial intelligence through an interactive, highly immersive experience that blends art, light, color, technology and sound to awaken your senses. You’ll see gorgeous projections, stunning (and sometimes mind-bending) lighting effects, interactive installations and much more. Make sure to book your tickets in advance online because this one sells out fast! QG-7, melt museum, Plac Powstańców 2A, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 534 125 556, 39-59zł, www.meltmuseum.com/en/ exhibitions/

Until 03.05 » City of Women

The companion exhibition to The Woman Question, this exhibit (also held at the Museum of Modern Art) consists of four parts: From the Guts, curated by Julia Bryan-Wilson; Other Tomorrows, curated by Michalina Sablik and Vera Zalutska; Her Heart, curated by Karolina Gembara; and We Were: International Women’s Year 1975 , curated by Wiktoria Szczupacka. The four parts come together to explore feminist art and the female artist through history, as well as the work of female activists -- at an incredibly pivotal time for feminism in Poland. This is a must-see for anyone who loves contemporary and recent art, as well as anyone curious about feminist art.QF-7/8, Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw, ul. Marszałkowska 103, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10, 35/25 zł, www. artmuseum.pl/wystawy/miasto-kobiet

01.07 - 31.12 » Kleks. Magic of Cinema

Get an in-depth, inside look at the secrets behind film production with this exhibit at the Koneser center. Learn about Mr. Kleks’ Academy, directed by Maciej Kawulsk with original costumes, authentic set design and more, all on nearly 1,000 m2 of interactive space. Here you can learn about the secrets of special effects and see how screenwriters and directors’ work looks like from the other side of the lens. For two hours, this tour of film production is enlightening for everyone - from children as young as 5 to adults, all who get to follow a guide! At the very end of the tour, you will meet the animatronic Professor Kleks and take part in a concept art workshop. Tickets half off in April.QK-2, Centrum Praskie Koneser, Plac Konesera 8, MDworzec Wileński, 75/69zł, www. kleksmagiakina.pl/warszawa/home-waw.

Until 05.07 » Olga Boznańska at the National Museum

Olga Boznańska was one of the most important painters in Poland in the 19th and 20th centuries and in this exhibit, the National Museum celebrates her life on the 160th anniversary of her birth. Born in Kraków, Boznańska studied ni Poland and Munich, before becoming a member of the prestigious Society of Polish Artists in the late 19th century. From her home in Paris, Boznańska honed an incredible, unique style that's easy for any Polish art-lover to identify on sight. Her work went beyond Poland, garnering international acclaim as she focused on portraits and still lifes. Today, she is one of Poland's most beloved artists, and her works are on display here at the National Museum, including some borrowed from Paris's famed Musee d’Orsay. Worth a visit for art lovers, lovers of Poland, and anyone in between! QH-8, Warsaw National Museum, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl

Until 08.06 » The Power of Words. On Jewish Languages

This is a tale of how languages grew to become the space of cultural development for Jews living in dispersion. They shaped the sphere of the sacred, everyday communication, as well as religious, social, local and national identity, drawing strength from diversity and cultural continuity.

Hebrew is at the core of this tale — an ancient language, a sacred language, a modern language. We invite you to get acquainted with its alphabet — to watch, listen and write, to get immersed in a space filled with letters, as if they were an intricately woven ornament. It is a unique opportunity to learn

about Jewish culture and discover its echoes in our everyday conversations.

In the exposition, the museum presents unique objects, such as a Babylonian magic bowl, a Sephardi Torah mantle, antique tomb stelae and Hebrew amulets as well as contemporary art.

QD-4, POLIN Museum, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, 30/25 zł, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.

Until 03.05 » The Woman Question

This exhibition at the Modern Art Museum in Warsaw sheds light on many of the unsung (or under-sung) female artists of history. In a nine-part visual narrative, visitors will be able to see the enduring creativity of women artists over the last 500 years -- a result of nearly 200 works, including paintings by women in the Renaissance and Baroque periods, along with women from the 19th Century.

The whole exhibit challenges the notion that women were absent from art before 1800 -- they were always creating. And you can see the impressiveness of their work here.QF-7/8, Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw, ul. Marszałkowska 103, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10, 35/25 zł, www.artmuseum.pl

Museums

Warsaw boasts some superior museums, ranging from world-class attractions full of multimedia displays, to small institutions covering niche historical events. It’s more than we have space to cover here, but you’ll find them all listed and up-todate on our website. In this guide, some of the city’s most important museums are listed within the district tours of Sightseeing section, while the rest of the best are here. Descriptions focus on each museum’s permanent collection; for current temporary exhibits, see p.72

E.Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum

Discover the secrets of chocolate production and delicacies through a thematic exhibition, interactive displays and workshops for adults and children alike. There are also classes that combine learning and fun for organized groups of children and teenagers.

The main exhibition at the museum covers three levels and is divided into a few thematic spaces -- the Ghanaian Space, The Chocolatier’s space, the Confectioner’s space, And finally, the Designer’s Space. Get ready for a whole host of exciting opportunities, including a chance to taste liquid chocolate and roasted cocoa beans, the ability to start the chocolate-making machine and touch the exhibits, and also the chance to learn about the Wedel family, along with much much more. QL-4, Al. Emila Wedla 5, MStadion Narodowy, www. fabrykaczekolady.pl. Open 10:00-20:00. 70/55zł.

Fabryka Norblina Museum

The Fabryka Norblina Museum goes over the beginnings of Norblin Factory in the late 18th Century when the land was purchased by Franciszek Ryx who started with two villas and an English-style garden. Now, the space has grown to 10 historic buildings and 50 machines and devices located over 2 hectares—truly a tale of growth! The permanent exhibition at the Norblin Factory Museum is based on four basic tour routes: "Buildings and Architecture", "Machines and Equipment", “Products” and “People ." An additional path connecting the most important elements of the basic paths is ’The Norblin Factory in a Nutshell,” led by museum guides. Plan for around 1 to 1.5 hours! QC/D-8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 728 59 48 13, www.muzeumfabrykinorblina.pl/ Open 9:00-17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00–16:00; closed Mon. With a guide, 40 zł; online ticket 15 zł.

Fryderyk Chopin Birthplace & Park in Żelazowa Wola

For Chopin completionists, or lovers of 19th century vibes, a trip out to the composer’s birthplace at the estate park of Żelazowa Wola can be a treat. The renovated museum celebrates the man, the myth, the legend himself, and also pays tribute to the museum’s dramatic history. Filled with early 19th century decor, keepsakes, instruments and paintings, many visitors attest to the haunting spirit of Chopin that lingers throughout. Outside, the impressively landscaped gardens feature four Chopin monuments and are perfect for a stroll as craftily hidden speakers serenade you with his music. 54km west of Warsaw, Żelazowa Wola can be reached in one hour by bus or train, making the entire visit round-trip about 4hrs. See website for Chopin recital times.QŻelazowa Wola 15 (Sochaczew), tel. (+48) 46 863 33 00, www. muzeum.nifc.pl/pl. Open 10:00-18:00; May to 31 Aug: 10:00-20:00. Temporary exhibitions (during the period of their presentation) are open daily during museum opening hours. Admission 25/20zł for the museum, park and temporary exhibition, 15/10zł for the park and temporary exhibition. Mon free.

melt museum

This is an art experience like nothing you’ve ever seen! Melt museum offers a fully sensory experience involving lights, color, interactive exhibits, robot dogs, and so so so much more! The museum takes an audiovisual approach to creativity, using a blend of art and ultra-modern technology to offer vibrant imagery and sounds that are meant to awaken all of your senses. The museum hosts popular temporary exhibitions and asks that you book your tickets in advance online (it’s a very popular experience). Once you do, you’ll step inside a mind-bending world of light, color, touch and sound that really highlights what technology can do and how it can affect our perception of our world. Bring your phone because the photos you’ll take will be some of your best! Melt is something you can explain a million times over but until you go there, you won’t really get just how beautiful, artistic and enlivening the experience can be -- so book those tickets and thank us later! Prices depend on the day of the week, so check out the website for details, but most prices range from 39zł to 56zł. Visiting time: 45-60mins. QG-7, Plac Powstańców 2A, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 534 125 556, www.meltmuseum.com. Open 12:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 10:00–21:00. Prices are available after clicking on the selected exhibition. Please book your places online in advance. Due to the limited number of places available at a given time, there is no guarantee that tickets will be available for purchase at the venue.

Museum of Dollhouses, Games & Toys

This small, charming museum has a fitting home in the Old Town. Showcasing over 150 highly detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, the museum has four permanent exhibitions on display at its headquarters at 15 Podwale Street; “In the World of Old Dolls' Houses,” “Sacred Toys,” “Dolls of the World,” and “Games and Polish Toys of the 20th Century.” The museum bills itself as an exciting experience for kids from ages 5-105 (you read that right), and, to prove the point, those below 100cm and above the age of 100 get in for free. This place makes you feel like a child again -- full of whimsy and excitement! Visiting time: 45-60mins.QF-4, ul. Podwale 15 (entrance in courtyard), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 797 72 30 29, www.muzeumdomkow.pl. Open 09:00-19:00. Tickets 42/30zł; kids under 1m tall, free. U

Museum of Fantastic Art

The world of Polish fantasy/surrealist art is both as mesmerising as it is confronting, and its unique style and construct of emotions have become recognised internationally. Residing within the grounds of Plac Koneser in Warsaw’s Praga district, the Museum of Fantastic Art has regularly changing exhibitions which have included the works of such popular artists as Zdzisław Beksiński, Jerzy Duda-Gracz, and

Wiesław Wałkuski. While that would otherwise be sufficient content for such a gallery, this unique art space celebrates the successive generation of Polish fantastic artists. Most of the works of art on display have never been presented to the public before, which is yet another reason why this exhibition a must-visit for art lovers in Warsaw! Current and future exhibitions are announced on the museum’s website. So check back regularly to stay up-to-date on the best art coming to this wonderful space.

Average visiting time: 40-60 min.QK-3, ul. Ząbkowska 31 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 798 82 27 65, www. muzeumsztukifantastycznej.pl. Open 11:00-19:00. Admission 40/30zł. U

Museum of Life under Communism

If Warsaw’s communist history isn’t vivid enough for you on a walk around the capital, immerse yourself in PRL (Polish People’s Republic) vibes at this private museum. Showing what everyday life was like for locals during the years of Poland’s communist rule, the nostalgic exhibits include a recreation of a typical PRL-era apartment, plus plenty of photos, artefacts and relics that demonstrate the difficulty and absurdity of those times. Find posters, matchboxes, old technology, a car from that era, radios, newspapers, table sets and pieces of fashion, and much much more. Along with tons of artefacts

Invisible Exhibition

A unique experience where seeing impaired guides lead you into their sightless world. On the tour you’ll understand the challenges blind people face daily as you try to write with a Braille typewriter, use kitchen gadgets designed for the sightless, and solve simple puzzles while blindfolded. Next, enter a series of pitch-black rooms that force you to rely on your other senses. You’ll feel the contours of a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is, listen for cars before crossing the street, and the guide will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar (bring some cash). Truly a fascinating experience. To visit, book online in advance. Tours in English can be arranged, but you must first email them via info@niewidzialna.pl with ‘TOUR IN ENGLISH’ as the subject line. Visiting time: 1hr.

QC-9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A (Atlas Tower), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.niewidzialna.pl. Open 10:00-20:00. Admission 45/40zł; Sat, Sun 50/45zł. N

is plenty of excellent information teaching out about the living conditions at the time, as well as traditions, difficulties and daily habits. The whole thing is enlightening and it's like stepping into a completely bygone era. Bittersweet for older Poles and eyeopening for foreigners. Visiting time: 1hr.QG-10, ul. Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul. Piękna), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.mzprl.pl Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 12:00-20:00. Admission 32/22zł. Audioguides free (after getting an app on https:// mzprl.pl/audioguide-free-of-charge/?lang=en ) in EN, FR, IT & ESP.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw

The place is really something to see. Inside the boxy white building, you’ll find twisting, geometric stairs (reminiscent of Escher pieces) and large, white gallery spaces. In one room, find a large fiber work that stretches floor to ceiling by internationally renowned artist Magdalena Abakanowicz. In another, a series of colorful figures lay on the floor - a work by artist Mariela Scafati about women’s protests for reproductive rights around the world. Other rooms hold massive modern art pieces involving materials like tent tarp, glass, and iron. Taking up four storeys and 20,000 m2 (including over 4,000 m2 of gallery area), the museum was designed by the New York City-based architecture studio Thomas Phifer and features exhibition spaces, educational areas for lectures and workshops, conservation and restoration workshops, a cinema, an auditorium, a café, and a museum shop. In addition, there are areas for reflection -- giant bamboo doors open to several little rooms around the museum, all covered in bamboo with large windows to stare out at the city. These quiet rooms offer spaces to relax and reflect on what you've seen.Visiting time: 90minQF-7/8, ul. Marszałkowska 103, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10, www.artmuseum.pl/en. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. 40/30zł.

Museum of Printing

This refurbished branch of the Museum of Warsaw boasts a collection of historical printing presses, fonts, bookbinding tools, and other paraphernalia for publishing books and pamphlets of all kinds. Keep an eye out for temporary exhibitions which put printing in its historical context - past exhibitions zoned in on invitations, picture book illustrations, and communist-era underground publishers. Average visiting time: 30mins.QJ-3, ul. Ząbkowska 23/25, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 620 60 42, www.muzeumdrukarstwa.muzeumwarszawy.pl/en/ Open 9:00–17:00; closed Mon. Admission 5/3zł. Thu free.

Pharmacy Museum

Find glass vials and beakers, wooden furnishings, period advertisements and vintage pharmaceutical equipment. learn Stories of medicines, poisons, and narcotics, as well as Japanese Kampo medicine. Learn about one of the world’s first female pharmacists – Antonina Leśniewska. The museum also offers workshops on the healing properties of plants, and a chance to make their own scented waters from essential oils! Visiting time: 45mins.QF-4, ul. Piwna 31/33, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 71 79, www. muzeumfarmacji.muzeumwarszawy.pl/. Open 10:00–18:00; closed Mon, Sun. Last admission is 30 minutes before closing. Admission 12/8zł. Thu free. U­6

Polish Vodka Museum

Set inside a former vodka factory, this multimedia museum is visited with a live tour guide or audio guide. The experience takes you from the origins of vodka to modern production methods, showing you plenty of paraphernalia and treating you to a tasting of this strong spirit so deeply tied to Polish history. Entries are timed (PL and EN tours hourly) and it’s wise to look at all the tour options online and book in advance Visiting time: 1.5hrs.QK-2, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki. pl. Open 12:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. from 63zł. 6

Poster Museum

After an over 3-year absence from Warsaw’s museum scene, the Poster Museum is back! The beloved museum reopened this year displaying excellent new exhibits.

Start with the Polish poster collection, with over 36,000 titles. “It is here that its tradition and achievements are subjected to review and reinterpretation,” the museum says.

The foreign poster collection is also incredible -- with an unrivaled collection of posters 25,000 posters from around the world.

The museum, housed inside the Wilanów Palace’s former indoor riding area features two large halls full of wonderful posters. At almost 60,000 pieces, this is reportedly the largest poster collection in the world. The museum focuses on the artistic merits of the posters rather than their documentary value and regularly has events. QP-2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 842 48 48, www.postermuseum.pl

Open 10.00-18.00; closed Mon. Admission 22/16zł.

Vodka Museum

Poland’s first-ever vodka museum is a captivating journey through the more than 500-year history of Poland’s cherished national drink. With the world’s largest collection of over 10,000 exhibits, visitors delve into vodka’s origins, production processes, design, and even the traditional etiquette in which vodka is served and consumed. Independently

founded by the passionate owners of the renowned restaurant Elixir by Dom Wódki (p.99), the museum seeks to shift the perception of Polish vodka from mere party indulgence to a finely-sipped and respected spirit. Showcasing intriguing artifacts like a Napoleonic soldier’s vodka-filled canteen and 1920s/30s bottles that were sent to the U.S. during prohibition, the museum offers an enlightening and enjoyable experience, and paying a little extra gets you in on a vodka tasting session. Prior reservation is essential for this not-to-be-missed attraction!QF-5, ul. Wierzbowa 11 (entrance from ul. Canaletta), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 888 60 08 05, www. muzeumwodki.pl. Open 13:00-19:00; Fri, Sat 13:0020:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 30zł (MUSEUM TOUR WITHOUT TASTING + audio guide). X

Warsaw National Museum

Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre interwar building, this is Warsaw’s most comprehensive art museum, leading you from the ancient world through the middle ages up to the 19th century. Along the way you’ll see the some of the country’s most priceless works, including 15th century Dutch masters and Botticelli, plus Polish masters like Chełmoński, Matejko and Wyspiański. There’s also the Gallery of Polish Design and the Faras Gallerythe latter of which holds a rare exhibit of medieval Nubian art from the Nile River Valley, plus temporary exhibits. Visiting time: 3hrs.QH-8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/15zł for permanent exhibits; kids and students up to 26; 1zł; Tue free. Friday: from 5 p.m., 50% discount on all tickets. U

Zachęta National Gallery of Art

One of the leading galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. Located in a beautiful Renaissance-style palace in the centre of Warsaw, just across from the Saxon Garden, the setting itself is worth a visit. What makes Zachęta more of a gallery than museum is that there is no core permenant exhibition on display, but rather topnotch temporary exhibits showcasing the best in Polish and international contemporary art. As a result you get leading-edge art in an old European environment. Recommended. Visiting time 6090mins.QF-6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta. art.pl. Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. last entry 19:30. Admission 30/20zł, family ticket 40zł, students 5zł. Thu free. U­6

Jewish Warsaw

When Nazi Germany invaded Poland in September 1939, Warsaw’s thriving Jewish population numbered approximately 350,000 - only New York City could boast a larger community.

Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland had been seen as a relative safe haven, and it attracted Jewish settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years, the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland.

As we know, Nazi occupation meant the complete dehumanisation and systematic destruction of Poland’s Jews, who were first forced into ghettos, where they faced violence, starvation and disease, and then deported to Nazi death camps where they were executed. The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of WWII and occupied much of the City Centre, as you can see by its outline on the maps in this guide. At its height it imprisoned 460,000 Jews in an area of 3.4km2. After more than 254,000 Varsovian Jews were sent to their deaths at Treblinka in the summer of 1942, those remaining began building bunkers and smuggling weapons into the Ghetto in preparation for what would be the war’s largest act of Jewish resistance. Beginning on April 19, 1943, Jewish fighting units engaged German troops in guerilla

warfare within the walls of the Ghetto in a final, doomed act of bravery, defiance and protest against the world’s silence and inaction. When the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ended 27 days later with the German command’s symbolic detonation of the Great Synagogue, 13,000 Jews had been killed, almost half of them perishing from the fire and smoke as the Nazis burned the Ghetto to the ground, building by building. Of the remaining 50,000 Jews, almost all of them were captured and perished at the Majdanek or Treblinka Nazi death camps.

Following WWII, much of Warsaw’s surviving Jewish population chose to emigrate to the U.S., the British mandate of Palestine (taking an active part in the creation of Israel) and elsewhere. Today Warsaw’s Jewish community is estimated at only about 2,000, but the city’s Jewish heritage remains an essential part of its identity, honoured today by innumerable monuments, memorials, museums and events, foremost among them the POLIN Museum, presenting the history of Polish Jews, and the annual Singer’s Warsaw Festival For a full list of Jewish tourism sites in Warsaw, visit our website

Art, History & Culture |

Worth Visiting

Anielewicz

Bunker

Only 350m from POLIN, this small mound and memorial marks the site of the large bunker from which the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation (ŻOB). Located beneath the tenement at the wartime address of ul. Miła 18 (today Miła 2), the bunker was discovered and surrounded by the Nazis on May 8, 1943, with about 300 people hiding inside. Given the chance to surrender, half of the occupants - mostly civilians - gave themselves up, but the ŻOB insurrectionists chose to stay and fight. When the Nazis used gas to force them out, many of the ŻOB fighters chose suicide. 120 fighters died, including ŻOB commander Mordechai Anielewicz and his girlfriend Mira Fuchrer; only about 15 survived (many of whom perished later). The bodies of the dead were never exhumed and covered over with rubble from the surrounding tenements to make this mound after the war. Today two monuments can be found on/near the memorial with inscriptions commemorating their sacrifice.

QD-3, ul. Miła 2, MDworzec Gdański.

Jewish Historical Institute

This amazing historical building that stood next to Warsaw’s Great Synagogue houses the Oneg Shabbat Archive, also known as the Ringelblum Archive - a secretly kept collection of documents, reports, essays, letters and other materials recording exactly what life was like in the Warsaw Ghetto, by those who were experiencing it, as it happened. As the Ghetto came under siege in 1943, the vast archive was secretly buried in three containers in three separate locations. Sadly, only the first two have been recovered, but they represent such extraordinary witness testimony that they were inscribed on UNESCO’s Memory of the World List

In the permanent exhibit you will see the original documents of the archive, the authentic containers and more. If you don’t have the time for POLIN, this is a great alternative. There are also temporary exhibits and an excellent bookshop. Visiting time: 90mins.

QE-5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:00-16:00; closed Sat. Last entrance 1h before closing. Admission 15/12zł. Mon free. Guided tour of permanent exhibit (Tue-Fri): 40 zł per person.

Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery

A beautiful and poignant place to visit, this is Warsaw’s only active Jewish cemetery. Established in 1806 beyond the city trenches (‘okopy,’ where today’s Okopowa Street runs), the cemetery houses some 200,000 tombs and is the final resting place of many generations of Varsovian Jews, including Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB-5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.cemetery.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00-16:00; Thu, Fri 9:00-17:00; closed Sat. Admission 20zł. N

POLIN Museum

One of the best museums in Poland, POLIN explains a millennium of Polish Jewish history and relations through multimedia displays that earned the 2016 European Museum of the Year award. Located within the former Warsaw Ghetto, the modern building itself is a stunning structure of copper and glass. Inside, each gallery addresses a different era in the history of the Jewish people in PL. Learn about kings, inventors, thinkers and industrialists; about Jewish holidays, customs, religion and culture. While the Holocaust is described in detail, the permanent exhibit is primarily a celebration of 1,000 years of Jewish life in PL. It takes the better part of a day to explore. One combined ticket gets you into permanent and temporary exhibits. The museum is also home to a cafe and an excellent restaurant serving traditional Jewish cuisine (kosher dishes available). In the middle of a green public square, outside, visitors will also see several monuments, including a massive memorial the heroes of the Warsaw Ghetto. Plan ahead because the last entrance to the core exhibit is 2 hours before closing time. Visiting time: 3hrs.QD-4, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; closed Tue. Admission with audio guide 45/35zł, Thu free. T­U

Warsaw Uprising

August 1, 1944 . Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in rebellion in what would be the largest uprising in the German occupied territories.

With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army on the east bank of the Vistula, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the ‘Armia Krajowa’ or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. What ensued was an epic 63-day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler’s forces.

17:00 - W-Hour

On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski, 17:00 signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would simultaneously attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles had was offset by a lack of weaponry. Nonetheless the Germans were caught off guard, and the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital.

Within days German reinforcements poured in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, cultural life thrived. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks.

Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on the insurgents' side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate. All hopes rested on the Russians.

After six weeks of inaction Red Army Marshal Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and no headway made. This single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich.

The Aftermath

Having deposited their weaponry, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. ‘No stone can remain standing,’ warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on.

Warsaw Rising Museum

Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive, multimedia displays, period artefacts, photos, video footage and plenty of sounds effects, this museum is guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station, the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the 1944 Uprising - provided they don’t make any wrong turns; it’s a common mistake, and, as such, an audioguide (10zł) is handy. You can also get a guided tour in Polish (150zł) or in another language (250zł). Set aside several hours for the experience. Visitors start by learning about life under Nazi rule, with immersive displays including a clandestine radio station and covert printing press. The mezzanine level features a film detailing the first month of battle, including the opportunity to clamber through a mock sewer. There is also an exact replica of the B24 Allied planes used to make supply drops over the besieged city. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the city’s destruction; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis.Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-inducing 5min 3D aerial ‘film’ that uses old photos and new tech to recreate the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945. A viewing platform and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this experience. Expect 35zł or 40 zł for a group in Polish. Other language tours cost more. Book in advance on the web. Visiting time: 3hrs.QB-7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 8:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission 35/30zł (kids under 7 free), Mon free. Audioguides in 8 languages 13zł/person. U

Activities & Experiences

Hey, it doesn’t all have to be exhausting museums and knee-lifts as you explore Poland’s largest city. Check out the local activities below if you’re looking for fun alternatives to traditional sightseeing, ready to try something new, or simply want some rest and relaxation.

Stacja Grawitacja

Smart Kids Planet

Smart Kids Planet is one of the best spots for kids and families in Poland! With 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, kids can play and learn as they do different tasks like building construction, shopping for food and fresh produce, learning about sports, and the magic of machinery and production lines, and much more! They'll develop cognitive function and cooperation skills all while having fun (plus there's a rest area for parents!)QD-8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 9:00-20:00.

Gravity getting you down? Get the bounce back in your step at this huge trampoline park that also features 3D virtual reality gaming by Hologate, a ropes course, obstacle course, basketball and volleyball courts and even a climbing wall with routes for all ages and abilities. Put on anti-slip socks and join the fun. Children ages 3-6 must be accompanied by adults; older kids can be let loose while their parents hang out at the well-stocked cafe.

Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www. stacjagrawitacja.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Museum World of Illusion

A strict break from the stuffiness of the Old Town, this fun, colourful museum is exciting and educational for all ages. Enter the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows, and an upsidedown room - each and every one out-of-this world! Pefect for groups and pairs -- go discover the extent to which the mind can be tricked by the eye (don't forget to whip out your phone for pics!).QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00. Admission 42/32zł.

Highline Warsaw

MK Bowling Entertainment Center

Found inside Galeria Młociny in the northern district of Bielany, this modern entertainment centre is just 2 mins away from the final stop of the M1. Once you’re there, you have the choice of 18 bowling lanes, 9 billiards tables, 4 shuffleboard tables, and 2 electronic dart boads, plus a kitchen that dishes out sandwiches, beer, snacks and more!Call in advance to reserve.Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15 (Galeria Młociny, 2nd floor), MMłociny, tel. (+48) 600 80 05 56, www.mkbowling.pl/start-warszawa. Open 12:0022:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00.

Atop the highest tower in the EU, this place should be your final stop after sightseeing. Get 360-degree views of the city from their observation deck on the 53rd floor. The tour to the top starts with a speedy panoramic elevator among the clouds. There’s an exhibition about Warsaw and an Experience Room with three films about the city’s history. Also head to the HighGarden Rooftop Lounge on the 49th floor for cocktails.QE-8, Varso Tower, Chmielna 69, MRondo ONZ, tel. (48) 22 162 52 50, www.highlinewarsaw. com. Open 10:00-22:00.

Warsaw Arcade Museum

This is one for nostalgia and fun-lovers alike! This interactive museum of video games is like a time machine back to the 80s and 90s, with tons of classic video games available to everyone, 120 vintage arcade machines and even the history of arcade games and their revolution over the years. Find arcade classics like Pac Man, Mario, Donkey Kong and much much more. Perfect for kids and adults!QAl. Jerozolimskie 200, tel. (+48) 573 999 815, www.warsawarcademuseum.com. Open 14:00-21:00; Fri 14:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. 60/40zł/1h.

Beauty & Spa

By this point, you’re well aware of how jam-packed Warsaw is. From little cafes to walking paths, to Old Town (p.38), various parks, and center city (p.28) sightseeing. But sometimes you just need to take a break from all the exploring and relax, and Warsaw is the place for that, too!

In fact, we think it’s better than many other cities in this department for a number of reasons. A big one is variety. Warsaw spas and beauty centers use different concepts to bring you a relaxing, fun experience that you cannot find anywhere else.

Beauty Hall

Elektrownia Powiśle’s Beauty Hall is an oasis of beauty and relaxation in the heart of Warsaw. The one-ofa-kind concept offers the comfort of holistic beauty in a lovely space. Take advantage of a wide range of face and body treatments in the Beauty Skin clinic, massages and holistic rituals in Balance & Beauty by Marta Bem, and barber and beauty services offered by experienced specialists at the Warsaw House of Lords salon. It is an ideal destination for both a quick treatment during the day and a longer regeneration after work or on the weekend. The Beauty Hall zone is found on level +2 in Elektrownia PowiśleQH/I-6, ul. Dobra 42 (Elektrownia Powiśle), MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.beautyhall.pl Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.

Beer & Wine SPA

What do you get when you combine a love of fine wines and beers, a passion for relaxation, and a beautiful spot for health and well-being? Of course the answer is the Beer and Wine Spa!

Here you can enjoy high-quality spa treatments like goat milk baths, massages and more, along with some of the tastiest beverages you can find in the city. In fact, the two are so intertwined, that you can even get facial treatments from the beer and grape cosmetics line which give your skin deep rejuvination. Or book a whole beer/wine spa package and sip a glass of bubbly while you enjoy top-notch spa treatments.

This is really a true symbol of comfort and relaxation, with the concept based on the idea that good feelings and good well-being go hand-in-hand. Plus, you can enjoy 20% off all treatments during a current promotion! Perfect for couples, singles, friend groups and more.QG-7, plac Powstańców Warszawy 2a, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 662 380 090, www.beerandwinespa.pl. Open 12:00-20:00.

Dr. Hauschka Showroom

This new showroom that opened up in December is one of only 5 Dr. Hauschka showrooms across the globe! And as such, it’s worth taking advantage of the great location. This international (and internationally renowned) skincare brand offers 100% natural products to plump, revive, mosturize and envigorate the skin. But it goes way beyond that in this showroom -- they’re creating a full-blown wellness experience, with makeup and lifestyle workshops, as well as a plan to offer massage treatments in the summer. Plus, the experience of shopping here is incredible in itself -- the place is bright and aromatic, with a deeply tranquil feel. Munch on some cookies or sip coffee or sparkling water as a skincare expert walks you through the best routine personalized for your unique skin. QZygmunta Krasińskiego 27, MPlac Wilsona, tel. (+48) 888 757 677, www.drhauschka.pl. Open 12:0018:00; Sat 11:00-15:00. Closed Sun.

Factory Family Salon

Slow down, take a breath, and relax. Located right in the heart of Warsaw, this salon upholds these principles by creating a space of tranquility, peace and feminine energy -- make every visit a small ritual. There are tons of offerings here: hair, nails, eyebrows, eyelashes, body and facial massage, and gentle beauty rituals.... all in a tranquil atmosphere that will leave you feeling both rejuvinated and beautiful -- inside and out! Factory Family focuses on an individual approach, tailoring each treatment to the needs of specific visitors and clients. The team ensures that you will not only get a top-notch treatment, but that you’ll fall deep into relaxation as you do.QC-7, ul. Krochmalna 61, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 797 76 60 00, www.factoryfamily.booksy.com/h. Open 9:00-20:00.

With top-tier treatments for hair, face and body, Factory Family is the ideal beauty clinic.

Kids & Families

While Warsaw has plenty of wonders, not every cultural site is going to be engaging for young visitors. The first step to having a successful family vacation is probably to just accept that what you and your kids want to do are not going to be one and the same. That said, there’s common ground to be found in some of Warsaw’s most popular attractions.

Wandering the Old Town (p.38) or Łazienki (p.58) will likely please everyone, as will a walk along the Vistula Boulevards (p.54) - a great outing with plenty of diversions, most obvious of which is the stimulating and educational Copernicus Science Centre (p.56) and Multimedia Fountain Park further north. You’ll also find playgrounds along the river, and in the high season you can take a ferry to the wild side of Wisła and enjoy one of the city’s wild beaches

Although it may sound more like punishment, kids really respond to the interactive exhibits of the highly modern Warsaw Rising Museum (p.83), which features areas designed specifically for young visitors. Some of Warsaw’s more niche museums like the National Ethnographic Museum, Museum of Dollhouses and Photoplasticon are also good choices for families. Of course, Warsaw has plenty of action-packed indoor attractions, too so don’t miss the rainy day recommendations on the previous pages.

E. Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum

This museum is a kid's dream come true! One of the most popular chocolatiers in the country, Wedel, has a large exhibit that lets you discover the secrets of chocolate production and delicacies through a thematic exhibition, interactive displays and workshops for adults and children alike. There are also classes that combine learning and fun for organized groups of children and teenagers. There are three levels in the museum, which teach kids about how chocolate is made -- from picking the beans to storing them -- as well as the techniques for making chocolate. Think Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory come to life!

And of course, what would a chocolate museum be without tastings? There's plenty of that, as well as a great opportunity for kids to design their own boxes for the popular Ptasie Mleczko Wedel chocolate confection!Qaleja Emila Wedla 5, MStadion Narodowy, www.fabrykaczekolady.pl. Open 10:0020:00. 70/55zł.

Smart Kids Planet

Young families visiting Warsaw need not worry about wholesome and constructive fun for the kids! Head along to Fabryka Norblina (p.31) and you will find Smart Kids Planet - the first edutainment centre in Poland, that is, a recreational format that bridges the gap between playrooms and science centres. Divided into 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, young minds can journey through many different worlds - building construction, food and fresh produce, sports, the magic of machinery and production lines, and right out into the cosmos with their very own designs coming to life before their eyes! Made for children aged from 0-10, this is certainly not a traditional ‘educational’ environment! Online tickets: 45-95zł; tickets at reception: 49-99zł. Buy for 1-2 hours or a full day. For children aged 0-10 QD-8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 09:00-20:00. Tickets online 45-95zł, at reception 49-99zł.

Warsaw Arcade Museum

This is one for nostalgia and fun-lovers alike! This interactive museum of video games is like a time machine back to the 80s and 90s, with tons of classic video games available to everyone, 120 vintage arcade machines and even the history of arcade games and their evolution over the years. Find arcade classics like Pac Man, Mario, Donkey Kong and much much more. Perfect for a break from the regular tourist attractions, and great for a birthday party, corporate meeting or event, the Warsaw Arcade museum is a must-visit! QAl. Jerozolimskie 200, tel. (+48) 573 99 98 15, www.warsawarcademuseum.com.

Open 14:00-21:00; Fri 14:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. 60/40zł/1h.

Warsaw Photoplasticon

Hidden in a darkened pre-war tenement near the train station, a visit here really is a trip back in time. A popular form of entertainment in the pre-cinema era, a ‘photoplasticon’ is basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) where visitors sit in front of a viewing station to see vivid photos as they slowly rotate by. Although photoplasticons were quickly made obsolete by moving pictures, this one, which has been located here since 1905, somehow stayed open, surviving the war and even serving as a meeting point for intellectuals during the communist era. Check online to see what’s loaded into the machine from their collection of over 7,000 stereoscopic images. Visiting time: 20mins.QF-8, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Open 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission 10/6zł; Thu free.

Dining in Warsaw

Nowhere is Warsaw’s vibrancy and diversity more apparent than in its progressive culinary scene. What follows are some of the most noteworthy dining establishments in the capital, divided into basic categories with the type of cuisine listed under the venue name; for more options visit our website. In terms of tipping, 10% is standard (easy math). Smacznego!

Yes Butcher! Shop & Bistro

utensils Steak

Under the helm of experienced chef Michał Gniadek, this shop has three elegant locations in Żoliborz, Mokotów and Saska Kępa (and one in Poznan). The first thing that’s likely to catch your eye is the enormous counter displaying the best this shop has to offer. That’s various cuts of steak (sirloin, striploin, ribeye, tomahawk, T-bone, picanha, hanger, Denver, and flat iron), all from countries known for their beef. They also offer lamb, veal, pork, organic poultry and homemade meals. You can order online and have it shipped to any city in Poland! Or do takeaway. Almost every product can be sampled on-site. Yes Butcher! has won two prestigious awards at the World Steak Challenge gala: including World’s Best Grain-Fed Ribeye and a gold medal of excellence for its ribeye from a Polish Hereford Premium heifer.

QF-14, al. Niepodległości 132/136, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 798 03 98 69, www.yesbutcher.pl

Open 12:00-22:00. Shop: Monday-Saturday: 10:00–22:00 Sunday: 10:00–20:00. €€€. U­S

Moonsfera

One of best restaurants in the city, Moonsfera's head chef, and owner, is Jarosław Uściński, the President of the Polish Association of chefs and bakers, so it's safe to say he takes cuisine fairly seriously. The menu is filled with a mix of Polish/International dishes made with the chef's own personal touch, both modern and elegant, and it shows as soon as you stare wide eyed at your plate as it's placed in front of you. There's a clear attention to detail here and fresh, seasonal ingredients -- each plate is more than just food, it's like a piece of lovily crafted art. Try dishes like cream of roasted leek soup or bite into a juicy beef tenderloin steak or a bone-in porkchop. A great place to eat and relax, but also somewhere you can also take part in cooking classes. We like that, making the experience inclusive. Here, here.

QE-2, ul. Bonifraterska 17, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 509 06 00 50, www.moonsfera.pl.

Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00.

€€€. T­U­B­E­S­6

Breakfast & Brunch

For some the direction of the day depends on the ability to eat a good breakfast, so we’ve highlighted some of our favourite places in Warsaw that specialise in śniadania (the Polish word for breakfast). Whether you’re an early bird or a late riser, get a good first feed in the places listed here!

Amar Beirut

Amar Beirut, an iconic Lebanese restaurant in the Norblin Factory, is the perfect place to start your day. Breakfast is served on the weekends (08:0012:00) , and features freshly baked manakish, labneh, variety of eggs, cheese, za’atar, and warm oven-fresh bread—paired with tea, fresh juices, or aromatic Lebanese coffee.Plus, guests can listen to live music, take part in the joyful celebrations of national Lebanese holidays, and smoke a hookah filled with high-quality tobacco.Amar Beirut is the embodiment of Lebanese hospitality, with engaging décor and wonderful live music. Stick around after breakfast for the main menu, including Lebanese breads, falafel, traditional tabbouleh salad, hummus, and more. QŻelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 799 600 700, www.amarbeirut.pl. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri 12:0002:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-02:00*. Breakfast is served only on the weekends (08:00-12:00). B­E­6

metro bar & bistro

Good food in a relaxed atmosphere. This place is simple, tasty and unpretentious with great pizza and pasta and a good wine selection. Ideal for a quick lunch or an evening with friends. Here you will find classic Italian cuisine, aromatic coffee and drinks inspired by sunny Italy. All in the heart of the city. The finest wines are found here, alongside cocktails and different special offers every day, including a deal from Monday to Friday, between 5 p.m. and 7 p.m., during which every cocktail is available for 30 zł! Plus, a TV in the middle of the space regularly shows matches and games. Also, if you’re looking to host an event, reach out! They have a second room just for events.QF-8, ul. Marszałkowska 99A (Metropol Hotel), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 32 53 106, www. hotelmetropol.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Breakfast: Monday to Friday - 6:30 - 10:00 Weekends - 6:30 - 11:00.

Nova Wola

Located within the elegant Crowne Plaza Hotel, Nova Wola encourages a wholesome start to your day in Warsaw, with a fresh and organic breakfast selection as part of its impressive modern Polish menu offer (p.100). Served mainly for guests of the hotel, the breakfast will run you 110 zł. Whether you opt for the breakfast buffet or à la carte, you’ll find light and healthy options crafted from local and seasonal ingredients. The breakfast menu includes favorites like omelettes with customizable add-ins. A continental breakfast is available for 75zł. It comes with a selection of croissants, Danish pastries, and bread with organic jams. Plus, a platter of cold cuts, artisan cheeses, smoked fish and -- for drinks -- fresh squeezed juice, coffee and tea. The restaurant stands out by offering entire pots of coffee, ensuring you have ample caffeine to energize yourself for he day ahead.QC-8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www.novawola. com. Open 06:30-10:30; Sat, Sun 06:30-11:00. T­U

Stacja Caffe

Bounce your way on over to some tasty food as you enjoy one of Warsaw’s best activity parks! Located right in the oh-so-popular Stacja Grawitacja trampoline (and more) center is this charming cafe, which serves everything from mozzarella and pesto sandwiches, to egg breakfasts, gnocchi meals and an array of smoothies!

It’s the perfect break after a fun day (and a workout!) jumping around the activity center, which includes a trampoline park, a climbing wall, a ropes course, and way more. Fuel up at the cafe and head back out for more fun!Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www.stacjagrawitacja.pl/warszawa/bistro/ menu-stacja-caffe. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 10:0021:00. T­6­i

The Cool Cat

One of our favourites, The Cool Cat is part Asianfusion bistro, part cocktail dive bar, all Varsovian awesome. If you need evidence that this laidback cult hangout has hipness to spare, they sells jars of their own vegan mayo and kimchi, plus kombucha for 25 zł. In terms of dining in, The Cool Cat specialises in ramen (of course) and serves an iconic bao donut dessert topped with matcha ice cream and caramel miso. They also have weekday lunch specials for only 38zł (12:00-16:00), exceptional coffee, and more. 2nd location at ul. Marszałkowska 8 (H-12).QI-7, ul. Solec 38, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 574 81 18 16. Open 10:00-21:00; Fri 10:00-22:00; Sat 09:30-22:00; Sun 09:30-21:00. T­6

Breakfast Market

They say it’s the most important meal of the day, but in Warsaw it’s also a cultural experience. The Breakfast Market (Targ Śniadaniowy) offers foodies a range of delicious day starters from dozens of local food producers, farms, restaurants and catering companies. Taking place outdoors in neighbourhood parks, mingle with locals, explore new parts of town and get your grub on by creating a picnic spread from the fresh foods on sale here, or choose from an array of readyto-eat meals from local producers as well. The Breakfast Market caters to families by organising events for kids and other attractions. Occurring on weekends (tentatively starting April 11 this year) until the end of September on Saturdays 09:0016:00 you’ll find the Breakfast Market near Plac Inwalidów in the leafy Żoliborz area; on Sundays from 10:00-17:00, the Market moves to the park area of Skwer AK Granat in Mokotów Qtel. (+48) 508 12 18 91, www.targsniadaniowy.pl. Open Sat 09:00-16:00; Sun 10:00-17:00.

To Lubię

Escape just beyond the medieval confines of the Old Town walls to find this charmingly twee cafe specialising in coffee, cakes, quiche and delicious fruit crumbles. If you enjoy Kraków’s cosy cafe culture, this spot is right up that alley, as opposed to the capital’s overabundance of postindustrial spaces with modern, minimal furnishings. When it comes to indulging in aromatic coffee and rich cakes, we’ll take the former. Their cakes are elegant and always new and exciting (including meringues and sponge cakes)! Breakfast is served all day, as well as wraps, lots of matcha products, and some savoury snacks. The name translates to ‘I like this’ and indeed we do.QF-3, ul. Freta 8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 635 90 23, www.tolubie.pl. Open 09:00-22:00. 6

Casual dining

Sometimes you just need a casual and convenient place to relax, enjoy good food, vibes and hospitality. The following venues deliver in that regard. While our listed opening hours seem self-explanatory, be aware that some venues close their doors if business is slow, while others stay open after the kitchen has closed. In such cases, the hours we list are for the kitchen.

Banjaluka

utensils Balkan

Head here for monstrous portions of the best Balkan food in town. Choose from all kinds of amazing Balkan food like juicy, well-seasoned meats, stuffed peppers with cheese, and roastbeef u rakija sljivovici (aka filled with plum rakija). Among the offerings is the legendary 20-centimeter Gurmanska Pljeskavica - a large, traditionally Balkan beef patty. And don’t just come here for the food -- the experience itself is great, too! Especially because they have live music every evening, along with a colorful, magical outdoor garden. This is the spot to post up in the summer months.QF-7, ul. Szkolna 2/4, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 60, www.banjaluka.pl. Open 13:0000:00; Mon 13:00–23:00; Fri 13:00-01:00; Sat 12:0001:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. T­E­6

Symbol & Price Key

utensils Category of Cuisine E Live music

Beef n’ Pepper

utensils Steak

The quality of the cuts here is excellent (28 days wet-aged or 30 days dry-aged) and the fact that they use the finest local meats means the prices are surprisingly reasonable. Seafood and Louisiana Chicken Wings struggle for a look-in as beef rules. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons, and there’s live music every Tuesday from 19:00. Plus a their regular summer garden and a new second garden on ul. Nowogrodzka with a view of the Palace of Culture and Science. Don’t miss their Sundays with the kids, where kids can participate in hands-on activities! QF-9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€€. T­U­E­6

C-1 Map Coordinate N Credit cards not accepted

M Metro o Year-round garden

T Child-friendly X Smoking room available

U Facilities for the disabled 6 Animal friendly

€ most mains under 35zł

€€ most mains 35–55zł

€€€ most mains 55–80zł

€€€€ most mains 80–120zł

€€€€€ most mains over 120zł

Ciao Napoli

utensils Italian

Located a short distance away from the Old Town Square (p.43), Ciao Napoli succeeds in bringing a little piece of Naples to the centre of Warsaw. Offering a selection of antipasti, salads, piadina, panuozzo and desserts, it’s the Neapolitan pizzas, with their fantastic thin and crispy dough, which really distinguish this small family-run franchise. The friendly atmosphere and cosiness of the restaurant also makes an impact, despite its popularity and the fact that its at the heart of one of the capital’s biggest tourist hotspots. That being said, you will leave satisfied, especially when you realise how reasonably priced the whole experience is! Their second location at ul. Piwna 40/42 (F-4) has weekday lunch specials from 12:00-16:00.QF-4, ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 508 69 43 52, www. ciaonapoli.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. T­B­6

Cucina Mia

utensils Italian

Ciucina Mia is both a story and a celebration of Italian cuisine and culture, with excellent, traditional dishes. Taste a wide range of flavors like Amalfi lemons, Umbriaco cheese soaked in red wine, earthy black truffles, salty and savory ham, and fresh mussles and red prawns straight off a Sicilian fishing boat. In short, the food here is the real Italian deal. The restaurant has even reintroduced a 300-year-old recipe created in a small Italian town. Plus, the flavors are complemented by top-shelf wines and exquisite, rich desserts. QH-9, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Grand Warsaw), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 61 00, www. cucinamia.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. €€€. U­B­E

Czerwony Wieprz

utensils Polish

Deriving its name from a former meeting place for members of the early communist movement, legend has it that even Lenin paid this place a visit in 1909. The interior is based on the style favoured by the 1950’s -1960’s party elite, and the walls are bedecked with memorabilia of the era. Somehow the owners have managed to carefully side swerve tackiness and the whole experience has a lovely, faded and nostalgic glam to it. Immensely popular with locals and tourists alike, 2012 saw ‘The Hog’ voted one of the 25 best and most interesting restaurants in the world by the Spanish Trade Leaders’ Club. QC-7, ul. Żelazna 68, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. €€€. T­U­B

The last secrects of comunist cuisine...

“Czerwony Wieprz” was recommended by The New York Times as the best Polish cuisine restaurant and included in a list of 10 reasons to visit Warsaw.

Czerwony Wieprz Restaurant

68 Żelazna Street, Warsaw Booking: +48 22 850 31 44

Casual | Dining

Drevny Kocur

utensils Czech

This friendly restaurant deals in generous serves of authentic Czech comfort food, and legendary Budweiser Budvar beer—unpasturised, full of flavour, and straight from the tank! Plus, this large space has the only 360-degree TV in Warsaw (and the second in Poland), showing football all the time. The perfect place for a beer and a match! Taking its name from a vernacular Czech word for ‘squirrel’, this familyrun spot brings authentic Czech comfort food and tank-fresh beer to the heart of Wola. As for the food, expect generous portions of Czech classics and a laid-back, pub-like atmosphere that’s perfect for families, friends, or a casual pint with your dog.QC-8, ul. Pańska 97, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 516 72 78 69, www.drevnykocur.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€ S

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi utensils Polish

You can’t visit the capital of Poland without trying some traditional Polish food, right? Gościniec has just that - hearty soups, plump dumplings, potato pancakes and various cutlets - all prepared ‘as they should be’ and at very reasonable prices. You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d personally recommend the pork chops or cabbage rolls stuffed with meat (known locally as gołąbki: go-womp-ki). The drinks on offer are quite funky (cold/hot options), and it’s all served up by friendly staff wearing folk attire. Additional locations at ul. Nowy Świat 43 (G-7), and deep in the Old Town at ul. Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14 (F-4).QG-5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www. gosciniec.waw.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:0023:30. €€. T­B­6

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem utensils Polish

With locations on the happening Nowy Świat street and another near the Old Town Square, this veteran Polish restaurant is as simple and traditional as it gets. A good option for tourists, families and anyone looking for their first foray into Polish cuisine, the modestly-priced, bilingual menu includes photos of almost every dish. There is a lot to choice, from classics like pierogi, potato pancakes with goulash and mushroom soup served in a bread bowl, to old school staples that have dropped off most modern menus like tripe soup and chicken livers with fried onions and baked apples. Also at ul.Świętojańska 15QG-7, ul. Nowy Świat 41, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 428 39 43, www.gospoda. waw.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:30. €€. T­B­6

metro bar & bistro utensils Italian

Good food in a relaxed atmosphere. This place is simple, tasty and unpretentious with great pizza and pasta and a good wine selection. Ideal for a quick lunch or an evening with friends. Here you will find classic Italian cuisine, aromatic coffee and drinks inspired by sunny Italy. All in the heart of the city. The finest wines are found here, alongside cocktails and different special offers every day, including a deal from Monday to Friday, between 5 p.m. and 7 p.m., during which every cocktail is available for 30 zł! Plus, a TV in the middle of the space regularly shows matches and games. Also, if you’re looking to host an event, reach out! They have a second room just for events.QF-8, ul. Marszałkowska 99A (Metropol Hotel), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 32 53 106, www. hotelmetropol.com.pl. Open 12:00-22:00. Breakfast: Monday to Friday 6:30-10:00 Weekends 6:30-11:00. €€.

T­U

PaTaThai Powiśle

utensils Thai

Try some juicy duck with crispy caramelized onion or savory and flavorful coconut milk curry. Seafood like grilled salmon in red curry or grilled octopus in a sweet mirin-ginger sauce, along with tofu, chicken and more are all here and all bursting with authentic Thai flavors. Bonus, this spot in Elektrownia Powiśle is a family-friendly place with a separate menu for kids, so you’ll easily find something for everyone. You can even visit with your dog! So for all the dog parents out on a walk and looking to stop for a bite, this is your place.QH-6, ul. Zajęcza 2b, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 574 11 81 04, www.patathai.pl/ lokale/powisle/. Open 12:00-22:00; Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-00:00. €€. 6

PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino

utensils Mediterranean

An original take on Mediterranean cuisine, with a focus on simplicity that lets the high quality ingredients and expert preparation shine. Plus, the biggest Primitivo wine collection means you can experience the top-shelf wine (with roots in Croatia and Italy) as you enjoy your meal. The dishes themselves as well as many ingredients come from the Mediterranean basin and other ingredients are locally sourced. Chefs focus on 3-ingredient dishes that allow them to highlight the expert preparation and quality food. A lunch offer is particularly exciting here: appetizer with a main course is 45 zł from 12:00-16:00. The restaurant design itself is also a huge attraction. With muted, earthy tones and wood, stone, ceramic and glass

elements in the design, Primitivo is reminiscent not only of the earth and the natural world, but also of some of the most sought-after dining experiences around the globe.QD-7, ul. Waliców 13, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 606 44 44 62, www.primitivo.com. pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€€.

T­U­B­6

Setki Powodów

utensils International

A fantastic neighbor of Warsaw’s Polish Vodka Museum, Setki Powodów (Hundreds of Reasons) guarantees live music and an impressive food menu, with plenty of things to nosh on as you listen and enjoy a drink. Setki Powodów offers international cuisine in a comfy street-food style with amazing burgers, pastrami sandwiches and seafood (and 30zł lunch!).

Relax as you taste delectable dishes, listen to live music, and take in some great surroundings (this place is well-lit and beautiful with artistic neon lighting). Consume as you wish, and enjoy the smallbut-punchy live music stage in the corner. The name means “hundreds of reasons” but there are thousands of reasons to come here.QK-2/3, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 54, www.setkipowodow.pl. Open Tue, Wed, Thu 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:0021:00; closed Mon. €€. U­E

TheOne Warsaw Club & Restaurant utensils International

The ideal blend of restaurant, cocktail bar and nightclub, all right in the center of Warsaw! Their food offerings are sure to delight with high-quality Mediterranean cuisine in an atmosphere that screams elegance.

Try a light beetroot ravioli, celery assiette, a succulent duck breast, and much much more. Putting aside all the entertainment and drinks this place has to offer, the food simply is where it’s at! Plus, the menu is both in English and Polish, so even the newest (English-speaking) visitors to Warsaw will have no problem ordering. But of course it doesn’t stop at food! As we mentioned, this spot is perfect for events and full evenings out. It’s also got a creative cocktail bar and a club area, meaning that after you eat some tasty food, you can head down for a refreshing cocktail and a great party accompanied by a top-notch sound system QF-7, ul. Mazowiecka 2/4, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 723 66 77 88, www.theonewarsaw.pl/. Open 17:00–00:00; Thu 17:00–03:00; Fri, Sat 17:00–05:00; Sun 14:00–22:00; closed Mon. €€€. U

Fine dining

If you want to splash out on some of Warsaw's finest cuisine, we definitely have you covered - testing the food was our pleasure. Whether you're looking for the right venue to impress a potential client, romantic partner or celebrate any kind of special moment, the following pages will keep you right. Bear in mind that reservations are almost essential in any of these venues.

Amar Beirut

utensils Lebanese

Amar Beirut is the embodiment of Lebanese hospitality, with engaging décor and wonderful live music. From noon to 4 p.m. enjoy an exquisite business lunch. Of course, dinner is a treat, too! Try all kinds of authentic Lebanese food, like falafel traditional tabbouleh salad, hummus, juicy grilled meat dishes and desserts that are an integral part of Lebanese culinary culture. On Thursday through Saturday, the restaurant really comes alive, with live entertainment in the evenings and a captivating dance performance on Saturday nights. Plus, the restaurant bar, located on the rooftop terrace, is sure to amaze with award-winning bartenders and epic center city views. Unwind with premium cocktails, aromatic shisha, and panoramic views.QC-8, Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 799 60 07 00, www.amarbeirut.pl/. Open 12:00-24:00; Fri 12:00-02:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-02:00. €€€€. B­E­6­i

Belvedere

utensils Polish

Belvedere is one of Warsaw’s most prestigious and romantic restaurants. Essentially a mid-19th century greenhouse, this spectacular venue features floorto-ceiling windows and is filled with tropical plants, including an over 100-year-old palm tree. Elegant, intimate table settings are placed amongst the indoor foliage, as well as outside, where peacocks wander the grounds. The food lives up to the first-rate atmosphere, with a concise menu of fresh seafood, meats and seasonal dishes, and a brunch menu is served Sundays. Consistently listed in the Michelin guide for over a decade, a glance at the prices reveals this is hardly just a place to drop in after a day in the park.QI-12, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park, entrance from ul. Parkowa), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 606 10 20 02, www. belvedere.com.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-16:30. €€€€. T­B­E

Der Elefant

utensils International

Opened back in 1990, this long-running establishment is spread over various rooms and floors, with a choice of dining experiences. From the street you’ll find their diner-style seafood bar with plenty of fresh fish; alternatively, enter through the courtyard to find a mock shop inside which you’ll see the chefs racing to fill the rapid flow of orders. The concise but diverse menu offers a choice of hot and cold starters (including the recommended Hemingway’s Oyster), burgers, steaks, seafood and some salad and pasta options. They also have a MonFri lunch offer of soup, entree and dessert for 43zł between 12:00 and 15:00. An attractive layout and prices lower than you would expect considering the location make Der Elefant insanely popular.QE-5, Pl. Bankowy 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 890 00 10, www.derelefant.pl. Open 12:00-00:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. €€€. T­U­E

Elixir by Dom Wódki

utensils International

Top marks to the masterminds behind this classy establishment, which has been running for over a decade! At their Vodka Atelier, you can try some 800 vodkas from around Poland and the globe; the range goes from PRL era classics to Polish ‘small batch’ distillers, designer vodkas, and flavoured vodkas. Also offered are six different types of Młody Ziemniak vodka (made from young potatoes). The label of each tells you about the vintage and what the weather and climate were like during its production. The restaurant itself features stunninglypresented contemporary takes on Polish classics with a unique food and vodka pairing system, which recommends specific vodkas to complement the ingredients and flavours of each dish! Such a system is unrivaled anywhere in Poland and the world at large, so this spot is an Absolut (pardon the pun!) top-spot and a truly unique venue on Warsaw’s culinary map.QF-5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 11, www.restauracjaelixir. pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:0022:00. €€€€. T

InAzia

utensils Asian

Expect elegant dishes bursting with color and adorned with fresh herbs and spices like lemongrass and coriander. Try crispy duck with plum sauce, grilled squid in a green curry, softshell crab with lemongrass, along with other fish, meat and vegetarian dishes. You also get an insight into the process thanks to their Omakase-style dinner.

ul. Waliców 13 +48 606 44 44 62

rezerwacje@primitivo.com.pl

That means a special window that allows you to watch the kitchen in action and chat with the chefs, leading to a perfectly tailored menu. Sleek interiors abound, as do fantastic tasting menus. One of the top Asian restaurants you’ll find in the whole city. For 6 courses expect to pay 450 zł per person or for 9 courses, 550 zł per person (along with a 10% service charge).QH-9, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Grand Warsaw), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 30 71 50, www.restauracjainazia.pl. Open 17:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. U

Koneser Grill

utensils International

A truly beautiful spot in the heart of Praskie Koneser, this restaurant is rife with good food, good atmosphere and all around good vibes. Working with smoke, aroma and top-quality meats, the expert chefs at this grill use Polish seasoned oak and alder wood to cook up some delicious dishes. Here, you can taste a whole host of different cuts of steak, from rib eye to T-bone (and plenty more), along with non-steak dishes like pasta and delicious appetizers (a cool, refreshing gazpacho is perfect for the summer). All served in a gorgeous spot with low lighting, exposed brick, a fireplace, high ceilings and an all-around elegance at every turn. This is definitely a spot that shines - especially when it comes to steak. QK-2, Ul. Ząbkowska 29, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 798 18 56 92, www.konesergrillwarszawa.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. €€€.

KUK

Restaurant

utensils International

Culinary artistry gets up close and personal with the sophistication and essence of Warsaw’s history, as KUK embraces both a natural and local approach to its menu. Their dishes indulge the taste buds with a range of wholesome ingredients and products, all sourced from trusted crops and seasonal delights just as they were by the discerning foodie class of the Polish Renaissance! KUK is part of the 18th-century

Branicki-Szaniawski complex (p.41), recently endowed by the glorious Hotel Verte, Poland’s first abode in Marriott’s Autograph Collection of boutique hotels, and the restaurant matches both it and the Polish capital’s vibrance. Chef Dawid Bielecki draws inspiration from Polish cuisine, combining classic flavors with a modern approch and local ingredients. His creativity is focused on delicious seasonal dishes based on herbs and flavors close to the earth, and he sources many of the ingredients himself to create distinctive, contemporary dishes. It embraces Polish and Varsovian cuising, presenting it all in a light, fresh way that’s both contemporary and rooted in tradition.QF-4, ul. Miodowa 6/8, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 511 46 46 45, www.hotelverte. com/kuk. Open 13:00–22:00. Last order: 22:00. €€€€.

X­T­U­E­6

Nova Wola

utensils Polish Nova Wola encapsulates the spirit of central-west Warsaw’s restlessly developing, trendsetting Wola district, and absolutely nails the concept of ‘premium casual’ dining. Residing within the luxury Crowne Plaza Hotel, complete with an industrial chic interior of polished concrete, dark woods, gold furnishings, lots of glass and big city views, it is here that Nova Wola delivers a decidedly modern take on Polish cuisine. Under Executive Chef Paweł Suchenek’s direction, the menu emphasizes simple plates made with high-quality ingredients sourced from local Polish suppliers and foraged in the wild. Local culinary traditions with contemporary flair offer you a choice of rich soups, premium Polish seasoned beef steaks, fish, and amongst others, a special seasonal menu. Read about Nova Wola’s breakfast on p.93

QC-8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www.novawola.com. Open 12:30-22:30; Lunch 12:30-16:00; Dinner 17:00-22:30; Breakfast Mon-Fri 6:30-10:30; Sat,Sun 06:30-11:00. €€€. T­U

Rozbrat 20

utensils International

For all intents and purposes, faultless. And that almost goes without saying because this is one of the few spots in Warsaw recognized with one star for high quality cooking by the Michelin Guide. A fine dining experience of the old school, though the food has a contemporary twist and packs a seriously sophisticated punch. The menu, overseen by coowner and chef Bartosz Szymczak draws from Polish cuisine and his heritage, but also from British and French cuisine, given that’s what he studied as he was coming up as a young chef.

The result is impressive, with a seasonal menu that changes regularly and always draws on fresh ingredients, prepared delicately and packed with flavor. Choose from a set menu with items like foie gras and bluefish tuna, or indulge in a delicate and gorgeous tasting menu. As for the wine list, it needs no introduction: it is one of the best in all of Poland. Note that there is a dress code (no shorts or sportswear) but regardless, this is an indulgence worth going for.QI-9, ul. Rozbrat 20, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 690 12 52 70, www.rozbrat20.com.pl. Open 17:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 16:00-22:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. T­6

U Fukiera

utensils Polish

Warsaw’s oldest and most famous restaurant, with a tradition going all the way back to the 16th century, is truly a must-see. Run under the star stewardship of Magda Gessler (of Polish MasterChef fame), this enchanting establishment’s interior is a work of art, bedecked with oil paintings and ornate antiques, creating a fantastic ambience. It’s easy to feel like you’re a part of history when dining here, and the guestbook - with such haughty names as Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Fergusonsuggests that indeed you are.

The menu itself is simultaneously classy, traditional and modern, with dishes that highlight seasonal ingredients like old Polish-style breaded eggs stuffed with mushrooms and parsley, green broccoli cream soup, and golden chicken on a lentil puree for spring. All perfectly prepared, all perfectly Polish. Right on the Old Town Square, enjoy the delicious, gorgeously presented food and soak up the regal atmosphere that has made this spot so beloved (and famous). And don’t forget to document your experience with pictures!QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 99 99 33, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. T­6

Food Markets

The popularity of street food and fast gastro concepts has led to an explosion of food markets and indoor dining halls in Warsaw, offering dozens of diverse eating options. Not only a place to slay your hunger, these modern food markets are also trendsetting urban social spaces, featuring bars and hosting events.

Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall

Going beyond an upscale urban shopping mall, Elektrownia also contains a whole host of gastro eateries, bars and event spaces. This central food court allows you to choose anything from fries, hot dogs, dim sum dumplings, kebabs, pizza, sushi, curries, Vietnamese, waffles and San Francisco street food. Additionally, there are several more restaurants in the office buildings opposite! You’re spoilt for choice, so let your mood and budget decide (not easy!). Once you’re done dining, check out their four bars, and also keep a regular eye on their events calendar so you don’t miss hip foodie happenings, creative worhshops and music evenings. Regularly winning top awards for best food halls in Europe and Poland, this spot is truly a must. QH-6, ul. Dobra 42 (Elektrownia Powiśle), MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com Open 12:00-23:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. U­6

Food Hall Browary

Occupying a large, brick-walled space in the historic Brewery Cellars, this impressive food hall is arguably the social centre of the Browary Warszawskie district (p.30). With 14 different food concepts to choose from - ranging from Tuk Tuk's authentic Thai cuisine to Octo, which offer pasta, pizza, seafood and more. there are plenty of enticing options, including special lunch offers.

The focal points are the impressively long Central Bar - well-stocked with beer, fine wine, and cool cocktails courtesy of legendary local bartender Karim Bibars, and the small stage which hosts DJs, bands and a range of thematic events. Grab a seat at a communal table, a plate of good food, and get socialising. From food to great conversation, drinks and music, this spot has it all. QC-7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 (Browary Warszawskie), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodhallbrowary.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat, 12:00-02:00. 6T

FOOD TOWN - Fabryka Norblina

Inspired by architectural and culinary trends from all over the world, FOOD TOWN in Fabryka Norblina is ideally situated across five picturesque historic halls, spanning a total area of 3,200 sqm. This unique place, characterised by its stunning period architecture, comes together with a soundtrack of live music and an incredible gastronomic offer that will rouse the palate of every guest that passes through.

Food Town is the largest food hall of its kind in Poland, with 24 gastrononomic concepts, taking you on a culinary journey through Europe, the Middle East, Asia and the Americas. Stepping aside from the wild gastronomic offer, you'll also discover tantalising alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages served in five thematic bars. There's also a stunning ambiance with low lighting, indoor and outdoor options and plenty more. The fifth hall of Fabryka Norblina that coexists alongside Food Hall is dedicated to entertainment and cultural events, taking place across the week –live music, stand-ups and exhibitions. Everything is truly going on here, especially if you want to have a perfect night out!.QC/D-8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodtown.pl. Open Mon, Tue 09:00-22:00; Wed, Thu 09:00-23:00; Fri 09:00-01:00; Sat 10:00-01:00; Sun 10:00-22:00. Bars are open one hour longer. T­U­6

Hala Koszyki

This historic Art Nouveau market hall originally opened in 1906, but was renovated, redeveloped into a modern mixed-use facility full of bars, restaurants, bookstores and designer boutiques, and reopened in 2016. Smashingly popular, drop in to the ground floor dining area to choose from dozens of diverse options, ranging from top-class independent bistros - like Warsaw Dream, Moth 24/7, BAJS, BRUT, Port Royal. Plus some great entertainment with the Arcade Bee concept at -1.

One of THE places to be seen in the capitaleasily accomplished thanks to the open floor plan - sometimes the place is so packed that mere availability and access dictate which places inside that you’re able to patronage. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall, which also features shops downstairs and space for cultural events upstairs. Don’t forget to look up, down and sideways as beautiful details abound!QF-10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 221 81 84, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:0001:00. X­T­U­6

Nightlife in Warsaw

In Warsaw you’re never far from a great night out. If the weather’s warm, simply head to the river. Elsewhere skint students patronise the dive bars of The Pavilions (G-7, courtyards of ul. Nowy Świat 22/28); for a more mature alternative crowd seek out the artsy bars across the river in Praga (p.64); for a lark with the lads, hit the party strip on ul. Mazowiecka (F-6/7). In practice, bars will stay open well past their given hours if business is good, but also bolt the doors early if not. Visit our website to refine your search and see more reviews. Na zdrowie (cheers!)!

Amar Beirut

Cocktail Bar

Amar Beirut, the incredible Lebanese restaurant offering delicious dishes and a great atmosphere, also offers another big selling point: a stellar rooftop bar (opening in May, weather depending) Unwind in the afternoon sun and see the switch from morning cocktails to evening drinks. Try some signature cocktails made by top-tier, awardwinning bartenders. Or, try some excellent shisha with a variety of flavors. Of course, there’s plenty of live entertainment here too, and the sounds of the live music plus the taste of an excellent cocktail under the stars makes this really the ultimate spot to be during warm summer nights. Even if the rooftop bar isn't open yet, the inside bar offers the same delectable drinks, great food and an incredible atmosphere with plenty to see. A top place for some drinks after a day of traveling.

QC-8, Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 799 60 07 00, www.amarbeirut.pl.

Open 12:00-24:00; Fri 12:00-02:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-02:00.

€€€€. B­E

TheOne Warsaw Club & Restaurant Club

With an incredible sound system and some truly innovative cocktails, TheOne has everything for a great night. Sip on delicious concoctions involving lavender and honey, or maple paired with coffee and bourbon. They have all the classics, too, from margaritas to old fashioneds, but no matter what you get, this place makes sure that they’re serving up the best stuff. As you sip on a cocktail in their glamorous, art deco-y interior, you can get ready for a night of dancing because this spot is also a nightclub! There’s completely professional sound and lighting in their club section, along with VIP tables and boxes (availavle with reservation). Great events are held here with excellent music. Plus, there’s a restaurant section so if you’re really craving some light, wellcrafted Mediterranean dishes, this is your spot!

QF-7, ul. Mazowiecka 2/4, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 723 66 77 88, www.theonewarsaw.pl

Open Wed 17:00-00:00; Thu 17:00-03:00; Fri, Sat 17:00-05:00; closed Mon, Tue, Sun. €€€.EU­

Bars & Clubs

Craft cocktails, done elegantly and bursting with flavor, can be found at The Roof (p.108).

3/4 Koneser Bar

Cocktail Bar

If you’re eager to experience Polish vodka the right way (sip, don’t shoot!), go straight to the source. Located on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum (p.66), this spectacular bar makes dozens of their own artisanal alcohol infusions - raspberry with rosemary, horseradish, or mango lassi are just a few of their surprising and constantly changing flavours. The current concept is based on the sense of touch and sight, fabrics, colours and texture. The lovely seasonal terrace offers great views of the heart of Praga and you can also try a premium whisky tasting from The Secret Speyside Collection. Na zdrowie!QK-2/3, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 52, www.koneserbar.pl. Open 16:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 15:0001:00; Sun 15:00-22:00; closed Mon, Tue. Subject to change. €€. U­B­6

Symbol Key

HighGarden Rooftop Lounge

Rooftop Cocktail Bar

Located atop the highest building in the EU, and the tallest skyscraper in Poland, right in the heart of the city, is HighGarden Rooftop Lounge, a bar with soul and flavors and excellent cocktails right in the middle of the sky. Known as the highest cocktail bar in the EU, this place is found on the 49th floor of the VARSO Tower and offers some spectacular views as you sip your drinks. The ambiance is top-notch: a green oasis of plants, and a real garden suspended in the clouds with direct access to an observation deck.

This spot is known for signature cocktails and wide range of mocktails along with a menu of great snacks inpsired by local flavors. It’s truly elegant and considered “a nightlife spot with a soul.”

Here is where you can come to celebrate, eat, drink, have good conversation and gaze at the skyline. A must after a long day of wandering around the city!

It’s open from 10:00 to midnight but after 22:00 you’ll need to make a table reservation and be prepared to spend a minimum amount. From 10:00, there’s an entrance fee (40-70zł if you pay online or 70zł if you pay on-site -- but this includes the entire Highline Warsaw price and amenities. See p.35 for more details). QE-8, Varso Tower, Chmielna 69, MRondo ONZ, www.highlinewarsaw.com/. Open 10:00-00:00. €€. G­U­B­E

Kufle i Kapsle

Cocktail Bar

The name ‘Kufle i Kapsle’ means ‘Beer Mugs and Bottlecaps’ and the interior is a perfect blend of European traditional bar design mingling with Polish features, such as the large tiled heater in the back room. 20 taps are on offer and the bottled beer selection has more variety than a Glaswegian glass recycling bin! An interesting selection of bar snacks are also available (think pretzels, nachos and big ole blocks of cheese). In contrast to many other local bars, expect it to be packed and buzzing from around 17:00 (online reservations possible) with people either having a wild night out, or a chill meeting with friends -- this spot draws all kinds. 2nd location nearby at ul. Nowy Świat 27 (G-7).QG-8, ul. Nowogrodzka 25, MCentrum, www.kufleikapsle.pl.

Open 15:00-02:00; Sat, Sun 14:00-02:00. €€. B­6

MOXO

Club

Part cocktail bar, part music club, part delicious restaurant, MOXO is a unique concept right in the center of Warsaw at Fabryka Norblina. The kitchen is itameshi — a fusion of Japanese precision and Italian comfort. The menu blends sushi and Japanese techniques with Italian-inspired dishes, bold flavors and plates designed for sharing. At the bar, find contemporary cocktails with a creative edge, expertly crafted to the general atmosphere and vibe of the space. You’ll find that everything flows easily from dinner to a late night out on the town. With a large LED screen, a cutting-edge sound system and amazing musical events in the large, industrial-style space, MOXO offers a night you won’t forget, especially when it turns into a unique music club every night after dinner.Enjoy immersive dinner shows that combine performance, visuals and music, all integrated into the dining experience. On Sundays, the space hosts live concerts by popular artists -- definitely a don’t-miss kind of thing!Qul.

Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 726 62 76 27, www.moxo.pl. Open 12:00-01:00; Fri 12:00-03:00; Sat 16:00–03:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€. X­U­B­E

Bars & Clubs | Nightlife

Pepper Events

Cocktail Bar

Making its presence known in the Polish capital’s urban jungle, the anomaly that is Pepper Events adds an exotic flair to the higher-class venues of Warsaw. The unique, sophisticated space includes both a euphoric club scene and a restaurant with an indulgent food menu. That’s all amplified with a stunning year-round garden and cocktail bar of the highest calibre, making it an ideal space for an intimate business meeting, a banquet, a product presentation, a large corporate event or even bachelor/bachelorette parties.QF-9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 06 80 68, www. pepperevents.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€. X­B­E­6

Piano Bar Warsaw Club

Located right in Fabryka Norblina, this spot effortlessly blends lovely piano music with fresh cocktails, great food and quiet conversation. The historic building that houses the Piano Bar has been thoughtfully adapted to provide unforgettable musical experiences in every corner. Whether you immerse yourself in the atmosphere on the ground floor, enjoy the sounds on the first-floor mezzanine, walk up the staircase, relax in the garden or discover a secluded spot, you will experience the full range of musical sensations.Plus, the menu is serves as a great complement to the music. Signature cocktails, prepared by experienced bartenders, take mixology to a whole new level with top-tier ingredients and unique tastes. The wine list is, similarly excellent with a wide range of glasses from all over the world. When it comes to the food menu, you’ll find dishes also from around the world. Many are perfect for sharing in a group while you listen to music, or enjoying as a snack by yourself.QD-8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. +48 533 44 48 88, www. pianobar.com.pl/. Open 17:30-01:00; Thu 17:30-02:00; Fri 17:30-04:00; Sat 17:00-04:00; Sun 17:00-00:00. €€. B­E

SEN Club

If you’ve come to SEN (PL for ‘dream’) to enjoy the restaurant (19:00-23:00), we give you a humble nod for making a solid choice -- their modern menu created by chef Alon Than is a delight. And it pairs well with the original cocktails, which are some of the best in the city! Although not huge, the panoramic backdrop (the National Stadium and the Poniatowski Bridge can be seen from this spot) pairs up perfectly with the lounge vibe. There is a door selection, so dress to impress, and don’t be put off - the staff

do their best to maintain the unique and positive character inside, which just adds to your enjoyment. The music’s great and the bar is well stocked, what’s not to enjoy? If you stay until the end, you may very well agree with the venue’s tag line: it was all a dream.

QJ-7, ul. Wioślarska 6, MCentrum Nauki Kopernika, tel. (+48) 883 02 50 25, www.senwarsaw.pl. Open Fri-Sat 19:00-06:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Dinner & Cocktails 19:00-22:00 Nightlife 22:00-06:00. €€€. X­E

The Roof

Rooftop Cocktail Bar

Perched on the 21st floor of Warsaw - The HUB, with an enchanting outdoor terrace and panoramic views of Warsaw’s city centre, The Roof offers a captivating setting for enjoying drinks, live music, a delightful dinner, or gathering with friends. A truly sky-high experience, the stunning vistas of the city are perfectly complemented by the bar offer, which invites visitors to explore the exciting and diverse selection of cocktails, and unique concoctions that have been curated to reflect the extraordinary essence of Warsaw’s skyline and capture the spirit of the city in every sip. The sights are further enhanced by a range of acoustic performances and intimate cultural events that are hosted here, creating an ambience that fosters both relaxation and engagement. No matter what kind of night you seek, this is one place in Warsaw you need to experience!QC-8, ul. Rondo Daszyńskiego 2 (Crowne Plaza Hotel), MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. +48 881 97 41 44, www.theroofskybar.com. Open 18:00-24:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00-01:00. €€€. U­E

The ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more Cocktail Bar

The ROOTS has, without a doubt, secured a very special place in the hearts of serious cocktail devotees, both local and international. For starters, the bar is a shrine to the noble art of being a barman/mixologist, and you should definitely check out their intriguing collection of vintage and antique ‘tools of the trade’ – the collection of mixers alone already stands at nearly 100 items! The ROOTS is so well-versed in the art of making cocktails, they have enough tricks for two great menus - one featuring classics of the trade and another which presents signature drinks based on seasonal regional flavours. Make sure you scrutinise both and ask for a recommendation at the bar. Food is also available in the form of a Polish fusion menu.QF-5, ul. Wierzbowa 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 660 333 983, www. theroots.pl. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri 17:00-02:00; Sat 14:00-02:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€. 6

Shopping in Warsaw

Warsaw offers a wide diversity of shopping experiences, from old school markets to luxury boutiques (primarily along ul. Nowy Świat and ul. Mokotowska: G-7, H-8/9) to some of Central Europe’s most modern shopping malls. For visitors, it’s an opportunity to shop exclusive designer brands, catch bargains on known commodities or find forgotten treasures. Happy hunting!

Amber & Jewellery

Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line

This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of the largest and oldest amber dealer in the city, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origincertified by the International Amber Association. Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line Even heads of State and royalty have been spotted procuring presents here, from Bill Clinton to Japanese princesses! Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other precious stones.QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 69 61, www.warsawamber.pl. Open 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-17:00.

Lilou

A phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components to create a unique and personalised piece. The range continues to grow, with the original luxury charm bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes, then have it hand-engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘must-have’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas. Also at ul. Francuska 27 (L-7), Westfield Arkadia (B/C-2), Westfield Mokotów, Sadyba Best Mall and Centrum Handlowe Janki.QH-9, ul. Mokotowska 63, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 506 19 08 97, www.lilou.pl. Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00*.

Gifts & Souvenirs

E-Manufaktura

It’s sometimes hard to find that perfect gift from Poland to take back home with you. We understand the problem, and it may be the case you get home, only to regret not having bought that sweet little tea cup you had your eye on. Now this is why we whole heartedly recommend E-Manufaktura, which is not only a shop in Warsaw, but also an online shop for you to look through an extensive catalogue in the comfort of your home. From egg cups, plates, bowls, and all other kitchenware you can think of, you’ll find it here! The famous hand-painted ceramics, Bolesławiec, make up the core of what’s on offer. It doesn’t get more Polish than this. A must-use service.QF-3, ul. Freta 14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 636 06 84, www.emanufaktura.com. Open 10:00-18:00.

HELLO! GIFT SHOP

Find a huge range of products that are perfect to take home for friends and family -- and oh-so-Polish! Roam into the Warsaw Old Town to find these three delightful shops, which sell gifts made in Poland and recalling Polish history and tradition.

Find a huge range of products with colorful folk patterns, Polish ceramics and porcelain, even models of Polish cars, T-shirts with fashionable prints, and all kinds of gifts sporting various Warsaw symbols. Check out their second location on ul. Freta 26/28 and their third on ul. Freta 11.QF-4, Piwna 17/19, MRatusz Arsenal. Open 10:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 10:0022:00; Sun 10:00-21:00.

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki

Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. With a mix of cups, plates, bowls and other kitchenware with various colours and designs, you can’t go wrong to buy friends, family, or even yourself one of these classic but quirky items. What’s more, at this location, not only do you get the chance to buy something of your pleasing, but you can join in some workshops (offered Thu-Sat 16:00 or 18:00) to make and paint anything you want in the studio! QF-8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art. Open 11:0019:00; closed Sun.

Luxury Shopping

Dr. Hauschka Showroom

This new showroom that opened up in December is one of only 5 Dr. Hauschka showrooms across the globe! And as such, it’s worth taking advantage of the great location. This international (and internationally renowned) skincare brand offers 100% natural products to plump, revive, mosturize and envigorate the skin. But it goes way beyond that in this showroom -- they’re creating a full-blown wellness experience, with makeup and lifestyle workshops, as well as a plan to offer massage treatments in the summer. Plus, the experience of shopping here is incredible in itself -- the place is bright and aromatic, with a deeply tranquil feel. Munch on some cookies or sip coffee or sparkling water as a skincare expert walks you through the best routine personalized for your unique skin. Also -- there’s a great array of makeup offerings! Treat yourself to one of their 170 products, a free consultation and advice, and leave feeling so much better. Qul. Zygmunta Krasińskiego 27, MPlac Wilsona, tel. +48 888 75 76 77, www.drhauschka.pl/ Open 12:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-15:00; closed Sun.

Shopping

Shopping Malls

Designer Outlet Warszawa

Set inside an impressive collection of buildings evoking the Baroque style of Warsaw’s Old Town, this is a premium outlet mall, with the interior that makes you feel like you’re walking through a fashion high street. Here you’ll find discounts ranging from 30-70% off on brands like BOSS, Calvin Klein, Coccinelle, GAP, Guess, Furla, KARL LAGERFELD, Lacoste, Liu Jo, Longines, Luisa Spagnoli, MaxMara, Marc O’Polo, Michael Kors, Pinko, Polo Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Tous, Twinset, Trussardi and Swarovski, through to lifestyle brands like adidas, Lee Cooper, New Balance, Kazar, Levi’s, Nike, Puma, Salewa, Timberland, 4F and many more.Qul. Puławska 42E (Piaseczno), MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 22 737 31 15, www.designeroutletwarszawa. pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00*.

Elektrownia Powiśle

When Elektrownia Powiśle (p.55) opened, we were impressed. The exterior doesn’t look all too big, but once inside you realise it’s much bigger than you’d ever expect! Imagine this as a multifunctional centre, including sooped up shops completely new to Poland (nay, in Central and Eastern Europe even!) such as Urban Outfitters, True Color, Weekday, COS, Elementy, Balagan, Galilu (to name a few), plenty more boutiques, beauty salons, a top floor event space, as well as their awesome gastro and nightlife offer (p.102). You can shop until you drop, then pick yourself up with some great food.QH/I-6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Elektrownia open MonSun 11:00-21:00 Food Hall open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00, Fri 12:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-23:00.

Fabryka Norblina

Fabryka Norblina isn’t just for food and sightseeing (though those are excellent things to do at this space). It’s also a bustling hub of commerce! In fact, this open, vibrant area is just filled with boutiques, shops, fashion stores located all across its 26,000 square meter space. Located on levels -1 and 2, the shopping section includes concept stores that offer a whole host of designer clothes, a perfumery, BioBazar with tons of organic food and artisan goods, a flower store, tech store, designer boutique, wine store, jewelry stores, Smart Kids Shop, and the only Answear store in Poland... the list goes on. The real question is what can’t you find here? And the answer? We’re not sure. This place seems to have everything! Qul. Żelazna 51/53, www.fabrykanorblina. pl/en/shopping. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00.

FACTORY Outlet Annopol

This massive outlet mall is closer than you think! Save up to 70% on premium name brands like Adidas, Nike, Ecco, Medicine, Guess, Under Armour, Pepe Jeans, Converse, Vans, Puma, Tefal, Tommy Hilfiger, Smyk, 4F, RTV Euro AGD and more.

FACTORY Outlet Annopol The options here are nearly endless and you can find amazing premium wear for such a low price that it’s going to be hard to rationalize NOT buying everything. Plus, you can find food and cafe options here so it’s really a spend-allday or shop-till-you-drop kind of experience. Qul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka), tel. (+48) 22 441 90 00, www. annopol.factory.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:0020:00*.

FACTORY Outlet Ursus

This outlet shopping mall southwest of the city centre is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at -70% discounts over regular rack rates, all in a gorgeous, sun-drenched spot!

FACTORY Outlet Ursus Recognisable brands include Tommy Hilfiger, Marc’o Polo, BOSS, Nike, Adidas, Guess, Calvin Klein, New Balance, Calzedonia, Lindt, Haribo, Tefal, Ochnik, Wittchen, and many more. And, it needs repeating, these are all at a discount. So you can shop premium clothing, jewelry and more for way less than the normal price!

One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, you can get there quickly by car via the S8 route or Nowolazurowa street. You can also reach it about 30mins by train or bus; check jakdojade.pl for accurate, up-to-the-minute connections.QPl. Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www.ursus.factory.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:0020:00*.

*Sunday Shopping in PL

In its effort to get people out of shopping malls and into churches, the Polish government has imposed regulations preventing most businesses from opening their doors on Sundays. Of course, there are exceptions, including 7 special Sundays when shops are open each year, and the rules don’t apply to restaurants, bars, cafes, pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets, souvenir shops and anywhere the business owner is personally working behind the counter. When you see an asterisk* after the Sunday hours in our guide, that means the venue is closed on Sundays.

Upcoming shopping Sundays: April 26

Venue Index

Print space is finite, but the internet is a vast, vacuous void we’ve devoted our lives to filling. If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed here, you’ll likely find it amongst the hundreds of places in Warsaw listed on our website: warsaw.inyourpocket.com

3/4 Koneser Bar 106

Adam Mickiewicz Monument 49

Amar Beirut 92, 98

Amar Beirut Rooftop Bar 105

Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line 111

Anielewicz Bunker 81

Banjaluka 94

Beauty Hall 86

Beef n’ Pepper 94

Beer&Wine SPA 86

Belvedere 98

Belvedere Palace 59

Botanical Garden 61

Branicki & Szaniawski Palaces 41

Breakfast Market 93

Bristol & Europejski Hotels 51

Browary Warszawskie 30

Centrum Praskie Koneser 65

Choose Your Adventure! 52

Chopin Benches 51

Chopin Monument 59

Ciao Napoli 95

Copernicus Science Centre 56

Cucina Mia 95

Czerwony Wieprz 95

Der Elefant 99

Designer Outlet Warszawa 112

Drevny Kocur 96

Dr. Hauschka Showroom 87, 111

Elektrownia Powiśle 55, 112

Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall 102

Elixir by Dom Wódki 99

E-Manufaktura 111

E. Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum 88

E.Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum 74

Fabryka Norblina 31, 112

Fabryka Norblina Museum 74

Factory Family Salon 87

FACTORY Outlet Annopol 112

FACTORY Outlet Ursus 112

Food Hall Browary 102

FOOD TOWN - Fabryka Norblina 103

Fryderyk Chopin Birthplace & Park in Żelazowa Wola 75

Gallery of Masterpieces 40

Gnojna Góra 45

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi 96

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem 96

Hala Koszyki 35, 103

HELLO! GIFT SHOP 111

HighGarden Rooftop Lounge 106

Highline Warsaw 85

Highline Warsaw (VARSO Tower) 35

Holy Cross Church 52

InAzia 99

Invisible Exhibition 76

Jan Kiliński Monument 41

Jewish Historical Institute 81

King Sigismund's Column 48

Kładka na Wiśle (Footbridge) 57

Koneser Grill 100

Kufle i Kapsle 107

KUK Restaurant 100 Lilou 111 melt museum 75 metro bar & bistro 92, 96

MK Bowling Entertainment Center 85 Moonsfera 91

107

of Dollhouses,

Museum of Printing 65, 77

Museum of Warsaw 17

Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch 44

Museum World of Illusion 84

Myślewicki Palace 60

Nicolaus Copernicus Monument 52

Nova Wola 93, 100

Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery 81

Old Orangery 60

Old Town Defensive Ramparts 42

Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre 45

Old Town Square 43

Palace of Culture & Science 27

Palace on the Isle 60

Pasaż Wiecha 32

PaTaThai Powiśle 96

Pepper Events 108

PGE National Stadium 66

Pharmacy Museum 78

Piano Bar Warsaw 108

Plac Defilad 32

Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire 30

Plac Grzybowski 31

Plac Konstytucji 33

Plac Pięciu Rogów & ul. Chmielna 33

Plac Piłsudskiego 30

Plac Zamkowy 39

Plac Zbawiciela 34

Planetarium of the Copernicus Science Centre 56

POLIN Museum 81

Polish Vodka Museum 66, 78

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki 111

Poster Museum 63, 78

Potocki Mausoleum 63

Powiśle Mermaid Statue 54

Praga Museum of Warsaw 65

Presidential Palace 50

PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino 96

Royal Castle 40

Rozbrat 20 101

Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska 66

VISIT NORBLIN FACTORY.

VISIT NORBLIN FACTORY.

BEST ENTERTAINMENT IN WARSAW.

BEST ENTERTAINMENT IN WARSAW.

LIVE MUSIC, BARS & RESTAURANTS.

LIVE MUSIC, BARS & RESTAURANTS.

51/53 Żelazna Street, Warsaw 51/53 Żelazna Street, Warsaw