27/2/06
11:31 am
Page 32
Author
GRIOTS
For the memory Among West African peoples, local and family history stories are told in speech and song by griots. Stephen Davies meets the continent’s traditional genealogists
A
s my eyes adjusted to the dim light in the inner court I saw Dikko Hamadou, the Fulani chief of Djibo (north-west Burkina Faso). He was swathed in indigo and sitting bolt upright on a wicker chair. On millet-stalk mats before him crouched ranks of well-wishers, here to congratulate their chief on the 32 • ANCESTORS APRIL 2006
forthcoming marriage of his nephew. “Salam aleykum,” I said. “Aleykum asalam,” replied the visitors in unison. “Mi wari faa jowte” (I have come to greet you), I said to the chief, and he nodded graciously, offering his hand. We rattled through the greeting sequence and I took a place on one of the mats. Then a figure appeared at the door,
the wide shoulders of his robe blocking out the light. He did not enter the inner court, but stood framed in the doorway and pointed a long forefinger at the chief. “Dikko Hamadou, maami to maama, maami to maama, maami to maama,” cried the intruder. His resonant voice shattered the calm of the court.