Overland Journal :: Winter 2015 by Overland Journal

Overland Journal Winter 2015

CONTENTS

Winter 2015

Feature s 34

Dodging Gunboats and Taming Elephants: Colombia by BMW, Scott Brady

Camp Stoves, Christophe Noel

Gold Fever in Guyana, Karin-Marijke Vis

Along the Mojave Road, Jim Downs

101

Feature Vehicle: Sportsmobileʼs Sprinter Mojave, Chris Collard

108

Expeditions 7: South America, Scott Brady

Dep artments 10

Overland Post

Editor’s Column

Field Tested

Overland News

Latitude: Flow, Chris Burkard

121

Overland Routes: The Mojave Road, Chris Cordes

127

Overland Conservation: Grassroots Soccer, Lavanya Sunkara

129

Overland Medicine: Hypothermia, Dr. Jon S. Solberg, MD, FAWM

132

Overland Chef: Grilled Scandinavian Salmon, Åsa Björklund

136

Tail Lamp: My Travels with Lilly, Michael Holland

On the cover: Scott Brady and Mauricio Escobar ride a narrow game trail in the savanna of Colombia along the border of Venezuela. Photo by Sinuhe Xavier. This photo: Silt abounds in the Mojave, obscuring vision yet adding to the adventure. Photo by Ashlie Pollard. Back cover: Puppies are a welcome distraction for any traveler; this cutie was intent on gnawing the front tire of the GS. Photo by Sinuhe Xavier. Overland Journal Winter 2015

Overland Journal Winter 2015

We are adventurers. Constantly traveling. Testing and using gear in real-world situations. Gaining experience, which we readily share.

OUR RESUME:

7 continents 144 countries 381 years combined experience and counting...

EXPERIENCE MATTERS We only know things when we live them

Winter 2015

Publisher and Chairman Scott Brady President and Director of Design Stephanie Brady Editor-in-Chief Chris Collard Chief Technology Officer Christian Pelletier Chief Business Development Officer Brian McVickers Chief Financial Officer Andre Racine Executive Creative Director Sinuhe Xavier Director of Operations Chris Cordes Editorial Administrator Sarah Ramm Senior Editor Christophe Noel Senior Photographer Bruce Dorn Staff Editor Åsa Björklund Conservation Editor Lavanya Sunkara Medical Editor Dr. Jon Solberg, MD, FAWM Contributing Editors Bryon Bass, Tom Collins, Chris Cordes, Jim Downs, Michael Holland, Lois Pryce, Pablo Rey, Toby Savage, Chris Scott, Tom Sheppard, Karin-Marijke Vis, Sam Watson, Gary and Monika Wescott Contributing Photographers Barry Andrews, Chris Burkard, Jimmy Chin, Jeff Foott, Ashlie Pollard, Coen Wubbels Copy Editors Arden Kysely, Tena Overacker Cartographer David Medeiros MIS Chazz Layne Fulfillment Bo Rounsavall

Contact Overland Journal, 3035 N Tarra Ave, #1, Prescott, AZ 86301 service@overlandjournal.com, editor@overlandjournal.com, advertising@overlandjournal.com Moving? Send address changes to service@overlandjournal.com. Include complete old address as well as new address. Allow two to four weeks for the address change to become effective. Overland Journal is not forwarded by the U.S. Postal Service. It is the subscriber’s responsibility to inform Overland Journal of an address change. Overland Journal is a trademark of Overland International, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Overland Journal is a wholly owned subsidiary of Overland International. overlandjournal.com

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OVERLAND POST

Chris, Cathi, and Porter Killian enjoy Death Valley with the Journal.

A Real Gift

We can’t thank you enough for running the article on Free Wheelchair Mission in your wonderful magazine. It is a real gift you’ve given our organization to help raise awareness on such a large scope. Susan and Joe Rubio Free Wheelchair Mission Ambassadors 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Overland Journal Winter 2015

Thank you for a great and unbiased article on some fantastic vehicles that few of us will have the opportunity to evaluate on our own. As the owner of a 100 Series Land Cruiser, I have an equally unbiased question. Why was the G-Wagen rated lower in durability than the Toyota? After all, in Scott Brady’s own words, “While the Toyota feels reliable, the GWagen feels durable, as if it could survive any calamity.” Yet the Mercedes was rated an “8” in durability while the Toyota rated a “9.” With a 1-point delta between the two, swapping these numbers would have changed the outcome. I would love to see a future review of the best overland offerings to be had stateside. Dennis Durrell 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser While the G-Wagen absolutely “feels” durable, it falls short in a few critical areas, principally bearing and front axle shaft strength. The G-Class also suffers from corrosion along the quarter panels and the b-pillar. The 461 is a tough vehicle, just not quite as durable as the Land Cruiser. - Scott Brady, author of Ultimate Overlander (Summer 2015)

First Year

I have really enjoyed the first year of my Overland Journal subscription. I have included a picture of one of our adventures this last year with the Journal onboard. The Jeep for me is Ellie, a 2013 Rubicon with a Currie 4-inch lift, LoD bumpers, 4.56 gears, and 35-inch tires. I built the teardrop trailer last summer and equipped it with an Engel refrigerator, Partner Steel stove, AGM battery, 100-watt solar panel, and 30-gallon freshwater tank. We have spent a total of two months exploring in Colorado, Utah, and California. This photo [above] is of my family in Death Valley with the Death Valley issue. Chris Killian 2013 Jeep Rubicon

Even Better

Thank you for a great journal. I am a regular subscriber and look forward to every issue. By the way, the current one (Spring 2015) is even better than the usually superlative issues. I find the quality of writing to be fun, enlightening, and enthralling. It routinely places the reader right in the middle of the adventure. I also thoroughly enjoy the articles on the adventurers you have interviewed as well as the quality of photography and production. It is almost hard to believe that there are individuals still in existence who care about these sorts of things—I thank you for your dedication to your work. George Matosian Land Rover LR2

Overland Journal Winter 2015

CONTRIBUTORS Chris Burkard

Karin-Marijke Vis and Coen Wubbles

At 29 years of age, Chris Burkard has seen more of the world than most of us could hope to see in several lifetimes. He has always gone his own way, impelled by his idiosyncratic desires. Often referred to as a surf photographer, Burkard describes himself as a landscape photographer with a peculiar relationship to the sea. He has published several books including The California Surf Project (with friend and co-author Eric Soderquist) and most recently, the children’s book The Boy Who Spoke to the Earth. Burkard’s commercial clients are numerous and his work has been published in National Geographic, the New Yorker, GQ, Men’s Journal, Vogue, and Surfer Magazine. Chris and his wife, Breanne, live on California’s Central Coast with their two sons, Jeremiah and Forest.

Karin-Marijke Vis is a bilingual writer with a degree in hotel management and tourism. After a 10-year career managing an in-house catering business, she left the corporate world to travel the globe with her partner, photographer Coen Wubbels. They purchased an antique BJ45 Land Cruiser and began a three-year journey from Europe to Asia via Africa. Terminally infected by the overland bug, they extended their adventure to include the Americas, and after eight more years on the road they are still loving it. Their images and stories have been published in magazines around the world, and in 2013, Expedition Portal awarded the traveling duo the coveted Overlander of the Year award.

Jim Downs

Åsa Björklund

Jim Downs is a filmmaker, photographer, and motorcycle writer residing in Los Angeles. After working for more than a decade as a television producer he discovered a deeper calling to explore the remotest wilds of the American West aboard an adventure motorcycle. Deciding to make passion a profession, he began writing and documenting his travels in video and photography. Today he produces commercial adventure videos and writes about motorcycles for various websites and publications. His interest in all manner of motorbikes has taken him from the most desolate wilderness to the fastest road courses in the United States, where he competes on vintage motorcycles in a national racing cup series.

Swedish born, Åsa has roamed the globe working as a waitress, a factory employee, and a dozen other odd jobs “that made life more interesting.” As a human rights lawyer she worked with development aid in Central America. When she escaped the office she explored the remote areas of Guatemala, Belize, El Salvador, and Honduras in a Land Rover. With a desire to write full time, she switched careers to journalism. Her work includes articles for international magazines covering topics such as overland travel, wildlife, current affairs, and social issues. Åsa has a love for animals and a particularly soft spot for horses. Whenever she can, she explores the Arizona backcountry with the help of Desert Daisy, a 1987 Land Cruiser FJ60.

Michael Holland

Lavanya Sunkara

Michael Holland moved from the flatlands of Wisconsin to the geographic wonder that is Utah in 1999. Initially, the 500 inches of snow per year was the main draw, but Mike soon began exploring the deserts and canyons of southern Utah and was hooked. When he is not teaching full-time in his home base of Park City, you will find him driving his white Toyota Land Cruiser around the Intermountain West, enjoying the backcountry and recreational opportunities it offers. Mike is usually lucky enough to be traveling with his wife, Louise, and daughter, Lilly. Whether rappelling into a slot canyon, hooking a trout, or hiking to an alpine lake, they are always ready for the next big adventure.

Lavanya is an animal lover and globetrotter based in New York. She became passionate about wildlife conservation after discovering The Jeff Corwin Experience on TV and decided to travel the world in pursuit of her own adventures. She has spotted the endangered black rhino in East Africa, swam with sharks in the Galapagos, cared for orphaned wallabies in Australia, witnessed sea turtle releases in Mexico, and hiked Costa Rican rainforests in search of snakes. She enjoys volunteering in remote corners of the earth and reporting on her experiences. Her work has appeared in several publications, including the New York Times and NBC Petside. She is the senior editor of the e-Book Jeff Corwin’s Explorer Series: Sharks.

Photo Courtesy: André Paul Pinces 2015

Winter 2015

Overland Journal Winter 2015

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THE WORLDS LARGEST OVERLAND COMMUNITY

JOURNAL ENTRY: From the Editor

Chris Collard

Balance I believe that sabbaticals from the month-to-month grind, regardless of the destination or duration, provide renewal to our lives. 16

Overland Journal Winter 2015

few years ago I was camped in Moab’s Kane Creek Canyon, Utah, near a group of climbers. Around the fire that evening, several read books and reviewed maps, while others pontificated solutions to the world’s problems. One set up a slackline between two vehicles and spent the next hour refining the art of balance. They had asked me to join them for a beer, but I had a pending deadline and remained in front of my laptop toiling away. I kept glancing across the road, watching their warm firelit shadows dance across the precipitous red canyon walls and contemplated closing my computer—and with it my deadline. I hesitantly lowered the screen and deliberated for a moment before opening it again. The Word document and the deadline were still there. Though every fiber in my being longed to shed the threads of responsibility, my fingers returned to the keyboard. Deadlines are deadlines, and the magazine editor, art director, and subscribers were all awaiting my article. Resentment shot through my psyche as I mused over the predicament. My conclusion was that I was overcommitted and it was no one’s fault but yours truly. I know I am not alone with this quandary. Balancing inequities, those of work and play, defies all socioeconomic boundaries and will even climb up the corporate ladder if left unchecked. Overland International realizes that one of the most important attributes an organization can possess is that its team members don’t lose sight of its charter. In our case, that commitment is boots-on-the-ground adventure experience—and not letting ourselves become soft-handed keyboard jockeys. I’ve realized that I am starting to spend too much time behind the desk, instead of behind the wheel. Our publisher, Scott Brady, having recently returned from adventures in Iceland, Europe, and a dual-sport mud slog through Colombia, has stepped up to champion the Winter 2015 issue. He has amassed a number of great adventure stories that will transport you to another place, and comprehensive no-gloves gear reviews that you can put your money on. Christophe Noel, who recently bikepacked through Iceland (Gear 2015) and piloted a dual-sport through the Ecuadorian Andes (Fall 2015) will be managing the Gear 2016 issue. As for my plans, I am taking a short sabbatical and getting on a plane bound for Cambodia, where I’ll be working with contributor Sam Watson to explore the country’s remote ruins and work with a land mine mitigation team. My next assignment will take me to Kenya and Tanzania, where Sam and I will embed ourselves deep in the bushveld with the Born Free Foundation and an anti-poaching squad. I can assure you that I’m excited about these opportunities and look forward to sharing those stories with you in future issues. I believe that sabbaticals from the month-to-month grind, regardless of the destination or duration, provide renewal to our lives and allow us to return to the office (or to the keyboard in my case) inspired and prepared to do our best work. Over the next few months I will be contributing even more adventure content to the Journal and Expedition Portal, as well as assisting Scott and Christophe from an editorial standpoint, but with a welcome reprieve from the desk. It is this type of commitment to its team and to balance, that will keep Overland Journal and Overland International at the cutting edge of the travel-adventure sector. See you in a few months.

Overland Journal Winter 2015

FIELD TESTED By Scott Brady

Clothing Arts PickPocket Proof Pants

$109

Clothing Arts outsmarts the thief with their pick-pocket proof cargo pants.

hile violent crime is rarely experienced by overlanders during international travel, the possibility of petty theft is a real consideration. One of the more nefarious methods is by pickpocket, who with practiced skill can lift your wallet, camera, passport, and even your watch right off your body without being detected. Situational awareness is critical to preventing most crimes, but it also helps to stack the odds in your favor with the right equipment. I did my best to abuse these trousers, wearing them every day (without washing) for a week which included trekking, brushbusting, vehicle repair, driving, and even a

few trips to the gym. The comfort and drape of the fabric is excellent, feeling more like cotton than nylon, and the material relaxes wrinkles quickly and repels water. Even in the monsoon rains of Arizona they beaded water and never soaked. The quality is also notable with YKK zippers, thick buttons, and metal snaps. The passport sleeve resides three layers deep behind the cut-resistant material, two zippers, buttons, and a snap. The front pockets are perfect for cash, a smartphone, and wallet; both are protected by a thick zipper (which opens up instead of down) and a small guard/flap that can be buttoned closed or left open to either reduce risk or improve ease of access. clothingarts.com, 646-422-9222

Photo by Sinuhe Xavier

he Aventuro is a category-changing helmet launched by Touratech in early 2015 to global acclaim, leaving traditional adventure motorcycle helmet manufacturers scratching their visors. This carbon fiber helmet is expensive, but it checks every box on the want list. After a neck injury in Nordkapp, Norway, I try to wear a lightweight unit with minimal drag from the visor—something the Aventuro does exceedingly well. The entire visor and even the face shield can be removed without tools, and there are large airflow ports that reduce backpressure and turbulence, relieving strain on the rider. Removal of the sun visor and shield allows the wearer to adapt to riding needs, from street use to adventure travel to dirt riding with goggles. Additional features include a Pinlock ready shield with one included clear insert. The Pinlock insert uses a silicon seal to create an airtight chamber, eliminating nearly all fogging. The helmet also easily accommodated my SENA communicator and Prism camera mount, the wires running behind the removable cheek pads and the speakers going into the generous ear cups. Ventilation is good with a large chin vent, forehead vents, and two exhaust ports in the rear. The size large helmet weighs 3.22 lb (1,463 g) and all sizes are DOT and ECE 22.05 compliant. touratech-usa.com, 800-491-2926

Aventuro Carbon Helmet

$649

Touratech redefines the premium adventure motorcycle helmet. Overland Journal Winter 2015

Overland Journal Winter 2015

OVERLAND NEWS

By Scott Brady Photography by Scott Brady and Toyota Motor Corp.

2016 Toyota Tacoma Toyota makes a great overland platform even better, increasing power, payload, and refinement.

Overland Journal Winter 2015

ake no mistake, the Toyota Tacoma is one of the best overland platforms ever sold in North America. The model is the most popular vehicle among our readership and represents one of the most suitable options for long distance adventure travel. As a result, we all held our collective breath as Toyota announced a major revision to this stalwart pickup. Fortunately, we were given the opportunity to evaluate this new truck in the field, over rock, and on the highway—it did not disappoint.

What’s New

We evaluated Crawl Control on a technical descent. The hill was so steep that it was difficult to walk, yet the four-channel CRAWL system controlled each tire independently. Toyota provided real-world offhighway challenges on the four-wheel drive loop, testing articulation and tractive performance. Opening page: The Tacoma is a handsome and modern truck, yet retains all of the utility, reliability, and durability of previous generations.

For an engineer to mess with success is dangerous territory. However, Toyota enthusiasts can rest assured that the 2016 Tacoma is more evolutionary than revolutionary. The designers addressed most of our complaints with the previous model and even included a few surprises. At first glance the model is familiar and immediately recognizable with high fenders, a tall beltline, and aggressive styling. The vehicle is robust and purposeful, although I find the front end to be a bit loud and long for my taste. The headlights are all new, with projector beams and integrated LED daytime running lights on most models, which reduces power consumption and improves durability. Chrome is thankfully limited and most panels are color matched to the bumpers. Overland Journal Winter 2015

The frame is stronger and the body uses ultra-high-strength steel in critical areas to improve rigidity and safety. The chassis benefits from an additional cross member and greater torsional stiffness, a benefit for payload and durability. The suspension architecture is nearly the same as the outgoing model, so most aftermarket suspension will be available at launch. The pickup is also more aerodynamic and stable at high speeds, thanks to a tailgate spoiler, air dam, and dozens of other minor tweaks. Combined with the new drivetrain, this is the most powerful and fuel efficient Tacoma ever produced.

In the case of the 2016 Tacoma TRD Off-Road, this is without question the best Toyota truck ever brought to our shores.

The new direct-injection 3.5-liter Atkinson cycle V6 produces 278 horsepower and 265 lb-ft of torque, all while achieving 23 mpg with 4WD and a 6-speed automatic transmission. The motor is both responsive and refined, quick to rev, and when matched to either transmission, surprisingly sporty. This reserve power will benefit those who modify their vehicle and push the weight of accessories toward the GVWR. For the interior, Toyota has set a new standard for quality of materials and overall passenger comfort. It is not to say that the truck feels soft, but it exudes refinement, and most touch points reinforce driver satisfaction. The dash is the most impressive interior upgrade, looking more like a Lexus than a compact pickup. The controls come easily to hand and are well-organized. Climate control, leather, a power moonroof, and 7-inch touchscreen infotainment system are all available features.

As an Overlander

The interior is vastly improved with better-quality materials and ergonomics. This includes dual-zone climate control and even leather seats in some packages. Four-Wheel Drive systems are controlled from the roof panel, with rear locker, CRAWL, Multi-terrain, and ESC accessible. The Tacoma is still a real truck with folding rear seats and durable cargo surfaces.

Overland Journal Winter 2015

My time testing the 2016 Tacoma included over 100 miles of Washington highway and rural roads, starting with heavy traffic in Seattle and ending with smooth twisting lanes through the forest. Having traveled extensively in generation one and two Tacomas, this third variant is remarkably refined and comfortable to drive. Noise, vibration, and harshness are barely notable and the entire experience behind the wheel communicates quality. The radio is clear and powerful with music available from apps, satellite, AM/ FM, Bluetooth, USB, and 3.5-mm audio input. Most common controls are available on the steering wheel. All of this results in reduced driver fatigue while traveling, which will allow for longer drive times and better-rested occupants when they arrive at their destination. On the trail, the Tacoma TRD Off-Road was impressive, with 9.4 inches of ground clearance, A-TRAC, rear locking differential, Multi-Terrain Select (mud and sand, loose rock, mogul, dirt, and rock), and a segment-first Crawl Control (CRAWL). Crawl ratios have also improved with the 6-speed manual achieving 44:1

Left: The rear suspension is similar to the generation two Tacoma, but suspends a larger, stronger rear axle. Right: Front suspension is shared with the 2015 model, which means all current suspension lifts will work at launch. Shock valving has been improved and the engineers added internal jounces to better control hard impacts.

and the 6-speed automatic managing a respectable 36:1. During our testing, all of these systems exceeded expectations. For weights and capacities, the fuel tank still holds 21.1 gallons, but the range has improved by over 15 percent with better fuel economy. The rear axle has been upgraded to an 8.75-inch ring gear along with a stronger housing, which results in a 24-percent increase in the truck’s gross axle weight rating. Other dimensions are essentially the same, a benefit for those with Four Wheel Campers. As enthusiasts and travelers, we are always concerned with changes to our favorite vehicles and equipment. Modern advancement is often at odds with reliability, durability, and technical terrain performance. In the case of the 2016 Tacoma TRD OffRoad, this is without question the best Toyota truck ever brought to our shores. However, this is not to say the vehicle is perfect, as I would like to see a 1,600-pound payload and an available D4D diesel power plant. Despite this, fuel economy and durability have been improved and the model is both more comfortable and safer to drive. I would also like to compliment Toyota on retaining the 6-speed manual and legendary 4WD capability. The Tacoma is better than ever and will likely remain a beloved option for the North American overlander. toyota.com, 800-331-4331

Overland Journal Winter 2015

OVERLAND NEWS

Adventure Reads

Something Lost Behind the Ranges: The Autobiography of John Blashford-Snell

Dragon Hunter: Roy Chapman Andrews and the Central Asiatic Expeditions

Reviewed by Chris Collard ISBN 978-0955312472

Reviewed by Sinuhe Xavier ISBN 978-0142000762

Though Colonel John Blashford-Snell (JBS) is best known for leading the 1971 British Trans-Americas Expedition from Alaska to Ushuaia via the Darien Gap, his exploits and harrowing tales of adventure extend to the far reaches of the planet over land, sea, and sky. Something Lost Behind the Ranges, his personal biography, transports us onto a mortar-peppered battlefield in the searing desert of North Africa: down Ethiopia’s bandit-ridden Blue Nile in Avon rafts, and to the Seven Seas on Eye of the Wind, a 1911 Brigantine he commissioned for Operation Drake—a scientific school at sea. He frequently digresses to his mischievous youth on Jersey Island off the Normandy coast (where he reconnoitered tunnels used by the Nazis) and his days as a prankster cadet in the Royal Military Academy Sandhurst. JBS shares his vision and subsequent creation of the Scientific Exploration Society, work with charities around the world, and detailed accounts of hundreds of environmentaland humanitarian-focused expeditions. His witty humor is pure tongue-in-cheek British, drawing the reader into the life of one of the world’s great explorers.

Charles Gallenkamp captures the spirit of exploration with his biography of Roy Chapman Andrews, one of the greatest explorers of our time. The story chronicling Mr. Andrews’ rise from humble means and no education to working for the American Museum of Natural History in New York is nearly a book in and of itself. However, the real story begins when his boots hit the ground in Mongolia on an expedition to prove early man came from Asia as opposed to Africa. Sponsored by the American Museum of Natural History, Ford Motor Company, and Carnegie family (among others), he set out on an ambitious adventure that ended up being fruitless in regard to human history, instead discovering a rich cache of dinosaur bones and the first velociraptor fossil.

By John Blashford-Snell

By Charles Gallenkamp

The book, while labeled a biography, is an exciting page-turner that reads more like an adventure novel, keeping you on the edge of your seat. Roy’s exploits during the Central Asiatic Expeditions were as grandiose as his personality, and his escapades inspired the Indiana Jones character. And who doesn’t love Indiana Jones?

Trek

By Paul Stewart Reviewed by Chris Scott ISBN 978-0552154598 It was in Kenya, 1955, when a trio of disparate travellers—a teenage boy, a lonesome spinster, and a young teacher—squeezed into an overloaded Morris Traveller. Ahead of them lay an 8,000-mile trek across equatorial Africa and the Sahara and then on to Britain. At the wheel was the ostensibly self-assured Alan Cooper, who’d completed a similar journey in the thirties. But the intervening years had beaten the now middle-aged, unsuccessful colonist, and packing his 8-horsepower station wagon with passengers was the cheapest way of returning to his homeland and his elderly mother. It’s said disasters are borne of bad luck compounded by bad decisions. By the time the group reached Agadez, Niger, the French were about to close the trans-Saharan route for the summer. Keen to avoid another costly delay, Cooper and his party slipped away in a hasty and illicit dash for the Algerian border. The Morris floundered, the foursome resorted to drinking eyewash, and the pitiless desert did the rest. Such “what were they thinking?” tragedies aren’t so unusual, even now. What makes Trek such a thrilling read is Stewart’s perseverance in tracking down the survivors and vividly dramatizing their fascinating saga. Overland Journal Winter 2015

Out of the Box: The Mostly True Story of a Mysterious Man By Julie C. Morse

Reviewed by Pablo Rey ISBN 978-1469759838

There are many different ways to travel. You can renounce the safety of a normal life and become a sort of vagabond, you can live your alltoo-short holidays as an amazing adventurer, or you can be the lucky guy whose job it is to sell cardboard boxes in the most unimaginable corners of our planet. Out of the Box is a book that reads fast about the idealized and adventurous life of the uncle we all wished we’d had when we were young. It is also the biography of a mysterious man who has visited more than a hundred countries. It’s a “me, mine, and myself” book, a tale of personal success through business—not exactly a travel book. There is not a single tradition from foreign lands, or a single adventure explained in detail. You are not going to encounter the true voices of locals. The book never makes you feel you have left your chair. There is a good story inside, but if you want to know more about it, you must first find Uncle Bob.

Overland Journal Winter 2015

A Short Ride in the Jungle: The Ho Chi Minh Trail by Motorcycle

Beyond the Horizon: The First HumanPowered Expedition to Circle the Globe

By Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent

By Colin Angus

Chasing Arizona: One Man’s Yearlong Obsession with the Grand Canyon State

Reviewed by Åsa Björklund ISBN 978-1849535434

Reviewed by Jon Solberg ISBN 978-0897329170

Reviewed by Chazz Layne ISBN 978- 0816528929

Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent set out on a solo journey to retrace the Ho Chi Minh Trail on a pink Honda Cub nicknamed the Pink Panther, a small motorcycle highly unsuitable for the mountains and jungles of Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. The grim history of the Trail is woven into the story, including its original purpose as a supply route for insurgents in the conflict between North and South Vietnam. Nevertheless, the writer’s sense of humor balances the serious notes. Hilarious encounters such as those with European thirdworld groupies and drunk locals with shameless proposals sprinkle the story. At the same time, the author shows compassion for the local people and interest in their cultures.

Beyond the Horizon is a firsthand account of Colin Angus’ human-powered, round-the-world expedition. It chronicles his self-supported, ecofriendly, day-to-day travel through a “perpetual state of struggle and uncertainty,” utilizing bicycle, canoe, rowboat, and his feet. It’s a quick and easy read, one that you can put down if necessary and resume a month later without missing a beat. Regrettably, there is a great deal of time spent on his rivalry with former expedition partner Tim Harvey; the book would be a more fascinating and motivating read without it.

A departure from the typical adventure travelogue, Ken Lamberton takes us on a series of wanderings in Chasing Arizona as he explores the state during its centennial. The result is a collection of loosely connected accounts that both entertain and inspire. Ken’s style of storytelling draws you into the experience: seeing, feeling, tasting, hearing, and smelling the sensations as if you were along for the ride. It’s an easy read, with each chapter standing as a unique adventure. I found myself sucked into the story and binge-read all the way through.

The expedition’s purpose and the goals of the book are to motivate and encourage an eco-friendly lifestyle, and I’ll confess that when I finished reading it, I actually rode my bicycle to the grocery store at least once. You will be motivated too. This is a compliment of which Angus would likely approve. While this is not a book that will find a permanent place in your collection of adventure reads, it is one that you can enjoy and then pass along to a friend.

There are enough details from each experience and location to grab a map and hit the road, which makes this as much travel guide as it is adventure story. The book is also a great reminder that adventure can be found anywhere, even in your home state. You don’t need a six-figure budget or a yearlong vacation to find it: the only essential ingredient is to go.

According to Antonia (aka Ants), the idea of traveling alone was to challenge herself emotionally, to undergo a “spiritual transformation.” Although this idea did not materialize, the solo journey gave her much-needed selfconfidence: “Iʼd stuck my chin out and kept on going, mile by muddy mile.”

By Ken Lamberton

Around the World in 50 Years: My Adventure to Every Country on Earth By Albert Podell

Reviewed by Chris Collard ISBN 978-1250051981 After navigating his way out of a North African minefield using an archer’s bow, winch line, and a boulder— with a trio of wild-eyed female Kiwi hitchhikers in tow—Albert Podell’s life got exciting. During the next 50 years, Podell, an accomplished author (Who Needs a Road), magazine editor, and attorney, set a goal to visit every country on the planet, including a few that thought they were countries. Through pure grit and intestinal fortitude, he found himself (usually with a lovely and innocent lady by his side) in war zones and tribal feuds, in third-world markets dining on exotic food, and boarding multi-leg flights to obscure nations just a stone’s throw away. We join his e-ticket ride in 1965 during the Trans World Expedition, a 581-day, 42,000mile trek around the world, and ride with him to his final country (196 in total) in 2012. Podell’s cynical humor is disseminated though his views on politics, corruption, cultures, and economies—and the physical attributes of beautiful women. Though he admits a few stamps were objects of box-checking, Around the World in 50 Years is a page-turner.

Looking for Africa: Cape to Cairo in the 21st Century

927 Days of Summer: Around the World in a VW Van

Reviewed by Sam Watson ISBN 978-1503204621

Reviewed by Christophe Noel ISBN 978-0989766531

This very readable book is an account of a drive from Cape Town to Europe in a Land Rover Defender. It was written in 2009 and published in 2013, and penned by one of a team of three who planned to drive the 18,000 miles in six months. It is accessible on two levels: as a travelogue, and also as a guide for those planning this journey themselves. It pulls no punches in describing the difficulties of the trip, nor does it skimp on detailing the beauty and wonder of Africa and the vivacity of the interaction with its people.

In 2011 Brad and Sheena Van Orden quit their jobs, hopped in their Volkswagen van (affectionately named Nacho) and embarked on a yearlong drive from their home in Arizona to Tierra del Fuego. That adventure was chronicled in their popular website and book of the same name, Drive Nacho Drive.

By Fiver Löcker

Lyrical and descriptively written, with a suitable balance between narrative speed and detail, it mentions much of use to the traveller: the merits of different guidebooks, how and where to haggle, police and bribery, carnets, tipping, prices of African game parks, people politics within the vehicle crew, and so on. By turns entertaining, thought-provoking, and useful, it is recommended for both the overlander and the armchair traveller.

By Brad and Sheena Van Orden

Their wanderlust unabated at land’s end, they loaded Nacho onto a boat and set sail for Malaysia where they continued to wind their way around the globe for two more years. Following a serpentine route, they traveled through the terraced rice paddies of Southeast Asia, the Nepalese Himalayas, and skirted the edge of the African Sahara before entering Europe. Rolling back into their hometown of Flagstaff, Arizona, they penned the second half of their story in 927 Days of Summer. The Van Ordens have a unique ability to transport the reader to Nachoʼs front seat with story telling infused with suspense and humor.

The Lost World Of The Kalahari By Laurens van der Post Reviewed by Pablo Rey ISBN 978-0156537063 This is not just another story of a journey through Africa; it is an account of the oldest surviving tribe in the world according to the latest genetic research. It is also the story of how difficult it was to organize an expedition in Africa 65 years ago. Laurens van der Post felt he had an unpaid debt to the original inhabitants of his land, and assembled a group of experienced (and helpless) adventurers to find the last of the “first men of Africa,” the San people, incorrectly known as Bushmen. Having lost most of their original tribal lands during the Colonial Era, this indigenous group were forced to survive in isolated pockets of the waterless Kalahari Desert, where no one (despite the color of their skin) would dare go. Laurens van der Post had the gift of the written word and crafted each sentence like a unique work of art. The Lost World of the Kalahari is a ticket to dream, a window to the past, a hymn to a bygone life, and represents the old ways of the real untamed Africa.

Overland Journal Winter 2015

The Secret Knowledge of Water: Discovering the Essence of the American Desert

Vehicle-dependent Expedition Guide

Reviewed by Sinuhe Xavier ISBN 978-0316610698

For 2015, Tom Sheppard released the fourth edition of his successful expedition guide. This iteration includes significant revisions to sections on vehicles, communications, and electronics. New to this volume is the addition of Jonathan Hanson as co-author, a complementary partnership that expands content on the Americas and reflects his long history with outdoor equipment. Ultimately, the book is better for it and inspired me to dig deeper into chapters I had first explored a decade ago.

By Craig Childs

The Secret Knowledge of Water dives into the mysteries of the desert’s most precious resource, covering everything from ancient indigenous lore to contemporary anecdotes of survival. Craig Child’s words are poetic, pulling you deep into a slot canyon and making you feel the texture of the rock, the coolness of the water, the smell of a fresh thunderstorm, and the history of the ancient Puebloan who left relics in high places. He brings readers close, making them feel like a part of the Earth’s natural cycles and its past, while at the same time reminding us how very small and insignificant we are. By the end of the book the reader should have a solid understanding of the scientific and mythological Southwest. This knowledge helped me appreciate the cultures, topography, and dangers found in the desert. I also came away with a new respect for water, both during drought and downpour.

Overland Journal Winter 2015

By Tom Sheppard and Jonathan Hanson

Reviewed by Scott Brady ISBN 978-0957538528

As a resource, the VDEG is indispensable, reinforcing critical best practice such as simplicity, vehicle durability, and lightweight equipment selection. The book does deviate slightly from its first edition with the inclusion of larger vehicles and AWD platforms—such are the times. I still remember when I found a dusty copy of the VDEG in early 2001 sitting on a shelf in a Land Rover dealership; I consumed its pages with the passion of the newly converted. In its latest form, the VDEG is no less relevant or educational and at $75 it is one of the first purchases every ambitious overlander should make.

Eastern Approaches By Fitzroy Maclean

Reviewed by Bryon Bass ISBN 978-0140132717 Sir Fitzroy Maclean recounts his early public service and military life in Eastern Approaches. Eton and Cambridge educated, the multilingual Maclean grooms for diplomatic service and begins his British Foreign Office circuit in 1933 in Paris. Later posted to the embassy in Moscow, he travels solo throughout Russia, invariably shadowed by the NKVD. In 1939, back in London, he resigns from Foreign Office service and joins the Cameron Highlanders. Shortly after, he is also elected as a Member of Parliament. In Cairo, Maclean meets fellow Scotsman David Stirling who pitches, “Why not join the Special Air Service Brigade?” He accepts and trains in parachuting, explosives, raids, and unconventional tactics. Churchill then summons him to London, promotes him to Brigadier, and parachutes him into the Balkans to link with partisan leader Tito. From 1943 to 1945 Maclean leads the British military mission in Yugoslavia. Combining seasoned SAS tactics with discreet diplomacy, the unassuming Maclean avoids capture and fulfills the mission. Fleming’s Bond certainly has nothing on Fitzroy Maclean.

Forks: A Quest for Culture, Cuisine and Connection By Allan Karl

Reviewed by Christophe Noel ISBN 978-0989441810 After realizing his job and marriage had come to an end, Allan Karl decided to start his life anew. He loaded his BMW motorcycle and embarked on a three-year epic across five continents and through 35 countries. Covering more than 60,000 solo miles, he concluded his trip where it all began, near his home in California. Allan’s amazing journey is chronicled in his bestselling book, Forks. The title is a double entendre paying homage to the choices made in life and more obviously, to Allan’s love of good food (and maybe even for the front suspension of his BMW). Unlike any other travel book, Forks is part travel journal and part cookbook, featuring the flavors he discovered along his route around the world. With his unique format, Allan is able to transport readers from the openair markets of the Middle East to the jungles of Colombia. The recipes within add the sense of smell and taste to a world of travel many would otherwise not experience. Full of beautiful images and fascinating tales from the road, it is a fitting tribute to his colorful life.

Overland Journal Winter 2015

Dodging Gunboats and Taming Elephants Deep into the Colombian savanna, a ragtag team of adventurers get caught in a quagmire of mud, sand, piranha, and gunboats. By Scott Brady Photography by Sinuhe Xavier

Overland Journal Winter 2015

Clockwise from top: Felipe and I surveyed the Meta River, discussing the canoe ride and how to load the bikes. Mauricio carefully lowered his BMW onto the metal boat; several villagers aided in the effort. Caiman are a common sight along the riverbanks, although most are too small to threaten humans. Felipe and some locals head out across the river, unaware of the challenges that await. Piranha fill the rivers of Colombia and require respect and a cautious grip. Opening spread: Deep into Los Llanos, I struggled against mud and growing fatigue. Overland Journal Winter 2015

The narrow canoe rocked hard from the heavy chop and Felipe strained against the weight of the Triumph as it shifted between the gunwales. Sweat poured from his forehead, the heat of the midday sun pounding his back, any breeze impeded by thick riding gear. The canoe, filled with three motorcycles and four people had just crossed the main channel of the Meta River; everyone was feeling fatigued from the passage. Felipe’s concentration deepened and his grip tightened to the handlebar when the bark of a megaphone broke his focus. “Alto! Alto!” punctuated the rattle of the outboard motor and he turned his head left to see a .50 caliber machine gun aimed directly at him, the gunboat only 20 meters away and closing fast. The canoe operator chopped the throttle in response to the order, immediately destabilizing the small vessel. Felipe fought against the loss of balance and braced himself for impact. Within moments the gunship was upon them, turning only slightly before slamming into the canoe, the force of steel and wake crushing the side of the narrow boat and sending everyone into the river’s piranha-infested depths. Overland Journal Winter 2015

Beginnings

Clockwise from top right: Climbing high into the Andes we stopped for a view into the valleys below, the cool air a welcome relief from the heat and humidity of the lower elevations. The potentiometer was broken, rendering the motorcycle unrideable. A few improvised repairs proved unsuccessful. Micho and I enjoyed a café tinto while resting from the morning’s journey. Colonial villages abound in central Colombia and are wonderful to visit and explore; hundreds of years of history are revealed in every brick and stone. Mauricio is a professional rider and trainer. In the weeks we rode together I never saw him drop a bike. Opposite: Small bridges cross big spans, few giving any confidence to the rider. Overland Journal Winter 2015

Sinuhe Xavier was born in Colombia, but has spent all of his adult years living in the Western United States. Despite his many travels, he felt the strong pull back to his homeland, drawn by stories his mother told about the highlands and the savanna of Los Llanos. Sinuhe and I travel together frequently and his invitations almost always begin with a cryptic text message. When I read, “Hey, wanna cross Colombia on BMWs?” my response went something like, “Hell YES!” Sparing the convoluted details, the idea for this adventure was born when Sinuhe’s friend and business partner in The Mighty Motor was visited by his former college roommate Mauricio “Micho” Escobar. Micho just happened to have access to BMW GS Adventure bikes in Colombia and was starting an adventure tour company called Elephant Expeditions. All of the pieces were falling together except for one problem: Sinuhe and I don’t do guided tours. There is nothing wrong with guided tours, but I like the calamity and uncertainty that results from not only limited planning, but also a complete lack of familiarity about what is around the next bend. To maximize the opportunity for adventure, the traveler must allow for a degree (okay, a lot) of spontaneity. Sinuhe contacted Mauricio and said, “We will go with you, but the route must be something

you have never done before. It should be a little crazy.” Mauricio knew exactly where to go, replying, “We will ride through Los Llanos to the Venezuelan border. Nobody goes there.” The next few months passed in a blur and I boarded a plane for Bogotá, excitement high, my thoughts filled with motorcycles, jungles, and the savanna.

Broken

Within a few hours of departing Bogotá, the team was hitting their stride. Sinuhe and I were bantering on the intercoms, our conversation mostly making fun of Mauricio who neglected to fit a radio. The roads were perfect and every turn was seemingly carved for an adventure tourer, broad sweepers interrupted by tight, decreasing radius curves; back and forth we climbed, further into the jungle. The smooth pavement gave way to wet gravel and we settled into passing small farms while dodging potholes and the occasional barking dog. The countryside was impressively clean, nearly devoid of the trash and graffiti common in the rest of the Americas. The trail was easy and my guard was down; I found my thoughts distracted by the beauty around me. Crossing a concrete bridge I turned to my left to watch an elegant waterfall meander down through a series of boulders, the forest encroaching on the gap, large ferns dancing in the light breeze. Suddenly I was airborne. In hindsight, I was distracted. It was a rookie move that any traveler could make, being lulled into their surroundings and then crash. The bridge was smooth and dry, but the exit transitioned to a muddy rut. While I was taking in the waterfall my line drifted to the middle of the track, the front tire slipping away immediately against the slick surface, the GSA pounding to the earth. As if in slow motion, I remember when my shoulder first contacted the berm, followed by my helmet, then a chorus of vertebrae popping and adjusting to the impact. As my arm compressed into my ribcage, the air from my lungs expelled and a sudden, pathetic “Buuuuugh” resounded through the intercom. Sinuhe, who was directly behind me replied with a “Whoa!” partially from the surprise of my brutal augering, but more so from the near collision of his bike into mine. I jumped up quickly which was a stupid move; a survey of my limbs revealed that nothing was broken. I wiggled my toes and squeezed my fingers into a fist, clenching them tight as I waited for a shooting pain—none came. I shook out my arms and then looked to the BMW, my only means of transportation for the entire trip (short of a pillion seat). I always find that these big bikes are easiest to pick up immediately after a crash, most likely from the benefit of residual adrenaline and our own fragile egos. I lifted the motorcycle up and onto the side stand. Looking around, I saw a bunch of mud shoved into the crash bars and the right side fog lamp was dangling from the harness. “Not bad,” I thought as I reached for the starter button. The boxer motor shuddered to life and settled into a smooth idle. “Yes!” was my next thought, followed by confusion as I cracked the throttle, only to find the motor stumble and die. The bike would idle, but not accelerate above 1,500 rpm. Further investigation revealed a broken potentiometer, also swinging from the wiring. This is the Achilles heel for the oil-cooled GSA, easily busted by a branch, rock, or in this case, my size 12 boot. The bike would not work without it. We rolled the motorcycle to the edge of the road and began devising a plan. There are a few things I have learned from encountering challenges, the first being that the people you are with are far more important than the tools you have with you. The second being that almost ev-

ery problem has a solution if you remain calm and are open-minded enough to discover it. We had a broken bike and no support vehicle, so the typical list of ideas was explored, including towing me out (it was too far). Next, we went to work on a field repair, complete with filing plastic and metal, electrical tape, and a few prayers to the moto gods—none of them worked. We were running out of daylight and options. Then I realized that all of the bikes were exactly the same, which gave I like the calamity us our own parts depot. I suggested that and uncertainty Micho and Sinuhe ride the 30 miles back that results from to the nearest town, then take the potentinot only limited ometer off of Sinuhe’s bike and have Miplanning, but also cho ride back to me solo. Then we could a complete lack install the part and get all three of us to of familiarity about a town with cellular service, supplies, and what is around the accommodations. While in town, Micho next bend. would work to get a replacement part and

39 have his cousin Felipe bring it with him that night. With that, they were off and I was sitting all alone on the side of a muddy track in the jungles of Colombia. I found some shade under a huge tree, sitting against a small stone wall built along a path that led to a tiny house across the route. A few trucks passed, none giving me any notice. Then a small Suzuki bounced by, only to park up the road; they also went about their way. Out from a house bounded a puppy, no older than a few months and happy to play with the chickens and even gnaw on the tire of the BMW. I could hear shuffling from above as a person walked down the path that led by my resting spot. They were moving quickly, not running, but at a deliberate pace. The bright colors came into view first and a woman emerged, wrinkled from sun and years, but strong and fit. She knew immediately that I was from the city (or further afield) and announced an “Hola!” from the distance. I responded in broken Spanish and we began to chat. I explained the predicament and she laughed, clearly amused by the American broken down on her road. From her handwoven satchel she pulled a cell phone and suggested a call to the next town for a truck. Her offer of help was immediate and without reservation, a blessing I have encountered in all of the remote places of the world I have visited. I explained that everything was okay and that my amigos were coming back to help me. We continued to talk, Overland Journal Winter 2015

Left column: We used a dugout canoe to access the far reaches of La Aurora Rancho. Capybara mingled among cattle, horse, and deer on the ranch. The savanna extended beyond the horizon and we were still almost a day from the next village. Middle: Sinuhe’s landing after jumping a huge irrigation ditch. The cattle ranches in Los Llanos date back to the Spaniards. Nelson plays the Llanero harp, an instrument popular in Venezuela and eastern Colombia. Opposite: Some of the homes date back well over a century, displaying beautiful tile work and bright colors. Several ranch hands assisted with refueling the GSAs. Overland Journal Winter 2015

most of her comments becoming a blur of local dialect and clauses well outside of my limited Spanish. Regardless, we laughed and she hugged me before disappearing into the jungle. Her departure was replaced with the thump of a GS cresting the hill. Micho had made it and we were back in business.

The Rancho

Micho and Sinuhe had made the impossible happen, contacting Felipe before he left Bogotá and arranging a replacement part from a friend’s bike. He arrived around 10 p.m., just in time for a late meal and a few laughs as Sinuhe was chased down the street by an errant bull. Early the next morning we installed the potentiometer and the BMW roared to life. We had many kilometers to travel, and needed to make up for lost time. Now a team of four, we continued east, steadily dropping elevation as we wound through the mountains toward the savanna. Los Llanos is a massive subtropical grassland that stretches from the Andes Mountains in Colombia to Venezuela in the east. There is only one paved road through the region and we would be far south of that, negotiating the deep mud and swollen rivers from the late rains. In many cases, the tracks would be little more than cattle trails. Our first destination would be the Hato la Aurora Rancho, a sustainable cattle farm that maintains thousands of hectares of indigenous biodiversity. Nelson, the son of the ranch’s patriarch and proprietor of a small lodge provides game walks and drives into the wetlands. This is a special place and just getting there is a challenge, requiring technical riding skill and a good waypoint. Here, we had our second crash as Sinuhe launched the BMW over an irrigation ditch, an impressive effort and display until the rear tire fell just short and pole-vaulted the bike (and him) onto the ranch’s grass landing strip. Laughing and photographs followed, but neither the rider nor bike was hurt. As the sun set, we closed in on the ranch house and our accommodation for the next few days. Parking the motorcycles under ancient palm trees, we were greeted by Nelson’s daughter holding glasses of fresh-squeezed mango juice. Still in our riding gear we settled into hammocks strung from the rafters, drinking pitchers full of jugo, letting our muscles and joints recover from the day’s kilometers. We enjoyed a hearty meal and were asleep by 9 p.m. in anticipation of exploring the farm the next morning. Breakfast was at 4:30 a.m., the egg yolks deep orange and accompanied by beef raised on the same land. Bellies full, we loaded onto a small wooden canoe, the oarsman bailing water when we arrived. We were to cross a small river and then climb into the back of a Hilux to watch the sunrise and take in the prolific wildlife. This ranch is unique as the family has allowed indigenous fauna to commingle with the cattle, including the world’s largest rodent, the capybara. These docile creatures can weigh up to 200 pounds and gather in groups of hundreds. On Aurora Rancho, they integrate with the livestock, caiman, wild horse, white-tail deer, feral pig, innumerable bird species, and even the anaconda. Having experienced the game drives in Africa, I expected to enjoy the view but be underwhelmed by the quantity and diversity of species. The opposite was true and I remain in absolute awe of the beauty of that place and the proliferation of animals. Before the day was out, we had watched a cattle drive, photographed our first piranha, and felt the mild terror of seeing an anaconda glide along the riverbank we had just walked. Overland Journal Winter 2015

Overland Journal Winter 2015

Exhaustion

After leaving the ranch, all signs of civilization fell away. The track was no longer maintained and there was only the occasional barbed wire fence sectioning the grasslands. We were riding hard through the rough terrain to make time, long stretches of sand interrupted by deep mud and murky water crossings. It was hot and humid, with few clouds to block out the When Sinuhe came sun’s intensity, and our water supplies were to a stop, Mauricio dwindling. We were fighting against the ruts, dove toward the the cylinder heads often biting into the edgfront of the bike as es and knocking us off line. Sinuhe took a smoke engulfed particularly hard hit, shoving mud and grass everyone. The into the crash bars and breaking the fog light grass shoved up and handguard. We righted the bike and against the exhaust kept riding toward Mauricio, only to see him waving his hands frantically in our direchad caught fire. tion. When Sinuhe came to a stop, Mauricio dove toward the front of the bike as smoke engulfed everyone. The grass shoved up against the exhaust had caught fire and by quick action he prevented any damage. I always know when difficulty takes its toll on teammates; their movements become less fluid and more deliberate as the humor and casual banter fades. Hardy travelers rarely bicker or complain, but you can see the impact of exhaustion. At a cattle gate, Sinuhe went to ride through a ditch and the rear tire slid sideways, causing him to lose balance and roll on the throttle, making traction. The 600-pound motorcycle nearly looped completely, ejecting Sinuhe and ending up on its side. The physical effort was getting to us and the sun was lower on the horizon. As the light continued to fade I started to contemplate contingencies. The one thing we shouldn’t do is ride in the dark. Not because of some imaginary banditos, but because of the labyrinth of trails that headed off in every direction, often into deep mud. We discussed camping in a thick row of trees, the one significant downside being a lack of clean water. After a few more minutes of brainstorming, I suggested that we ride until dark or until we encountered the first rancho. We were lucky, and within 30 minutes a few structures came into view along with the reassuring purr of a generator. Mauricio hopped off the bike and went to investigate and hopefully speak with the occupants. He knew going alone would be less intimidating to the rancher and would better our odds of getting water and a safe spot to camp. We did better, were invited into his home and given beds and full meals. The family was wonderful and extended the most genuine hospitality, including pulling salted meat for us from a big plastic bucket on the side of the house. We drank gallons of cool water from a fresh spring and laughed well into the evening. The only thing that woke me up that night was a bat crashing through the window bars and hitting me in the leg. This startled me awake and resulted in me kicking the bat directly into Sinuhe on the next bed over. Clockwise from top left: Thick mud blocked our progress through the savanna, clogging our tires and draining our energy with each stuck. Along the border with Venezuela the grass grew taller and thicker, disguising the single-track trail we were following. Muddy, murky water crossings obscured potential dangers; none of the group was eager to walk across first given the piranha and anaconda. The mangosteen is a rare and expensive fruit in Colombia, but worth every peso. A thick, red skin hides the sweet and creamy center. The sun was setting across the grasslands and we were running low on drinking water. Most remote villages sell water by the bag, the contents accessed by biting off the corner and pouring it into your mouth or a container. Center: The occasional mud hole required the entire team to push, pull, and drag the heavy motorcycles to dry ground. Overland Journal Winter 2015

Felipe struggled back to the surface to see the canoe lifting skyward like the Titanic, being pulled under by the weight of the outboard and fuel tank.

Overland Journal Winter 2015

We woke with the light and shoved a quick breakfast into our bellies and gallons of water into our packs and bladders. We had to arrive in Puerto Carreño that night or we would miss our flight. Motivated and rested we took to the pegs yet again and fought the worst mud of the trip; some holes were deeper than the tires, hiding big ledges and ruts. Part of the track was through a marshy wetland that taxed every rider; some crossings required two additional team members pushing on the back of the BMWs as the rear tire threw mud skyward. We were closing in on Bocas de la Hermosa, a small enclave on the western shore of the Meta River. Arriving in town we searched for the ferry, only to find it drug up on shore and in complete disrepair. Talking with a few locals we negotiated passage by canoe and started to lower Felipe’s Triumph 800 XC down the ramp, followed by two other villagers with smaller dirt bikes. Even in the moment, crossing such a massive river in small canoes seemed like a crazy idea. However, Felipe was in good spirits as he straddled his motorcycle, sitting on the saddle and using his feet to stabilize the tall bike between the sides. He looked at us with a crooked smile and shrugged his shoulders. “Listo,” he yelled, and then, “Let’s go!” The canoe operator swung the narrow vessel into the current and twisted the throttle of the small outboard. They were off and soon out of sight.

Back to the Gunboat

Felipe crashed into the water, high sided off the canoe from the impact of the gunboat. The momentum of the falling Triumph forced him under and he opened his eyes to a murky underworld of sinking bikes and thrashing bodies. He struggled back to the surface to see the canoe lifting skyward like the Titanic, being pulled under by the weight of the outboard and fuel tank. Feverishly he looked about, seeing the soldiers with carbines brought to bear, yelling at him to show his hands. To his right he felt the Triumph, which miraculously did not sink immediately, most likely spared by the air in the fuel tank and luggage, but it was going down. Felipe grabbed for the handlebar and kicked with all of his strength toward the side of the gunship. With his free hand he managed to grasp at a strap dangling from the side of the boat and thrust his mouth skyward, pulling in a long breath. The relief was only for a moment before the weight of the motorcycle drug him under again and he fought against it, kicking and struggling to bring it back to the surface. The river was too deep and the Triumph was being sucked downward by gravity and sideways by the current. His head completely underwater he had just a moment of thought: “I either let go of the boat or I let go of the bike.” His grip relaxed off the handlebar and the motorcycle slipped free into the deep. He pulled himself skyward yet again, this time directing all of his ferocity at his attackers. “What in the HELL have you done?” Felipe foamed, his blue eyes glaring directly at the closest contact. He gasped for another breath, but could immediately see that the soldier’s countenance had changed from suspicion to confusion. Three of the boatmen grabbed for Felipe’s hands and jacket, pulling him aboard. Falling to a soaked heap on the deck of the ship, he yelled again (in Spanish), “Why did you ram us?” The officer was now hovering over Felipe, looking clearly concerned as he replied, “We thought you were stealing the bikes and smuggling them into Venezuela!” The conversation broke as the commander in a nearby vessel started yelling as well, the officer describing the situation. Within moments, army boats were everywhere and soldiers were grabbing for the other swimming victims. All three bikes and the canoe had disappeared.

Realizing the gravity of their error, the officer ordered his men to start searching for the Triumph. They began removing their boots and diving into the river in the general area of the impact. Within minutes there were a half-dozen soldiers in the water and the commander was doing his best to appease the wealthy hotelier from Bogotá that he had nearly killed. Almost 20 minutes passed before one of the divers came to the surface screaming, “I found it!” Ropes were secured and the 800 XC was drug through the water to the muddy shore using pulleys secured to the nearest tree. Back on the other side of the river, Mauricio, Sinuhe, and I were completely ignorant of the insanity that Felipe was enduring. We were busy enjoying cold Cokes and filling water bottles from little plastic bags labeled agua purificada when a cell phone rang. The local that had arranged our passage pulled the mobile to his ear and his eyes widened. Lips starting to tremble, he said, “Are they dead?” as he started to pace. He looked to Mauricio and yelled, “The boat has capsized and everyone is in the river.” That was the end of the call; the person on the other end had no more information as the news was relayed from another boat that had witnessed the impact. Mauricio’s face went flush from the sudden impact of shock and disbelief. His cousin was in the Meta River and we had no idea if he was alive or dead. Mauricio mumbled that he needed to call his family and wondered if we should even risk going across the river too. I responded that we must go, to which Mauricio replied, “But it is not safe!” When I asked him how many times they had used canoes like that to cross rivers he said, “hundreds of times.” Then I asked him how many times they had capsized. “This is the first time,” he replied. The odds were in our favor and I urged Mauricio to arrange another canoe. Within minutes we had a second vessel coordinated and started lowering the three BMW GSAs down the ramp and onto the deck. I was the first to board and after considerable effort we had the motorcycle in place. While the locals stabilized the boat and bike, After recovering his drowned motorcycle, Felipe and the Triumph finally arrived at the small ramp, his jacket still soaked from plunging into the Meta River. Opposite clockwise from top left: Sinuhe and Mauricio braced themselves against the hull of the canoe, fighting against the current and waves. The Colombian gunboats are menacing residents of the vast river system, complete with a machine gun on the bow and numerous soldiers. I slowly pushed the GS Adventure up the riverbank to freedom, my strength sapped from the long crossing and the emotional uncertainty of Felipe’s fate. Overland Journal Winter 2015

I slowly kicked a leg over the saddle and jammed my boots against the slick metal hull. I was struggling to maintain balance and despite being over six feet tall, my feet could barely touch. In a moment of ingenuity I remembered the electronic suspension and by pushing a series of buttons had the preload backed off completely, giving me precious contact and grip. One by one, the group lowered the remaining bikes onto the tiny boat. Much to my relief, the stability of the boat improved once we were under power, the hydraulics pressing against the bow and taking most of the rocking away. I still found it difficult to relax but managed to snap a We showed up few photographs with my Canon before right on time, and of shoving it into a small dry bag. The river course no one had was huge and took nearly 20 minutes to cross; all the while the team was tortured any idea who we by the news of Felipe and completely were, why we were uncertain of his fate. From the main there, or how in the world we were going channel the canoe operator turned us down a tributary. That was when I first to get three giant noticed the gunboats, counting at least motorcycles into the six of them, several under power and a back of a DC-3. few more tied to the shore. My heart was thumping as I searched for Felipe. The gray of his Motorrad Jacket finally came into view, his posture slumped forward, his head in his hands. Hearing our motor, Felipe turned and stood, grabbing hold of the canopy as he leaned his head into view while his other hand chopped at his neck three times. The look on his face was clear, the bike was dead. Cruising past him we could now see the Triumph on the shoreline, the luggage rack lashed to a tree trunk and the headlight still pouring muddy water onto the bank. We were filled with immediate relief, yet also had deep concerns. Felipe was alive but his bike had been submerged for far too long, the computers and sensors exposed to water, sand, and mud. Our trials were just beginning, starting with getting the remaining bikes safely up the ramps further down the river. Each of us pulled, pushed, and shoved the BMWs up the embankment, running the motor and working the clutch to assist with the effort. Again, we were overwhelmed by the kindness of strangers as the area honcho expressed his frustration with the military and simultaneously arranged cold beers and a plan. He offered to haul Felipe and his motorcycle to the next town and this seemed like a really good idea, particularly since the locals that lost motorcycles in the accident were becoming increasingly agitated, pushing for compensation because the gringos had caused all of this. Within a few minutes, Felipe arrived with his wounded motorcycle, both having been loaded into another makeshift canoe at the crash site. His back was to us, head held low as a llanero straddled the Triumph, while a second stabilized the bike, and a fourth operated the outboard. In moments we had his bike out of the boat and agreement on a plan. Because of the tight timeline for the plane, the three of us would continue on and Felipe would try to fix his bike in the next town. We knew that his trip was over and the motorcycle likely unrepairable, so we all hugged and promised to reconnect back in the city. It was late in the day and we had hundreds of miles left to ride.

Taking Flight

My alarm kicked off way too early the next morning but there was little time for relaxation. Mauricio had arranged an ancient cargo Overland Journal Winter 2015

47 Clockwise from top right: I rode the BMW up the stairs while the pilot and crew pushed from the back. The pilot gave a thumbs-up to the ground crew as we touched down outside of Bogotá. All three motorcycles, lined up at the Puerto Correño airfield. With TSA nowhere to be seen, we walked to the cockpit and took note of the convenient machete and axe. The DC-3 is a beautiful aircraft and fitting transport for our ragtag crew. Opposite top to bottom: Mauricio pushed his motorcycle to the DC-3. The view from the air was spectacular and allowed us a bird’s eye view of the terrain we had ridden. Mauricio rode his GSA up the stairway and into the cargo hold.

Overland Journal Winter 2015

plane to ferry us back to Bogotá and we needed to ride to the airport and load the bikes. Despite Micho’s detailed planning, we were at the mercy of a frontier operation, the airport and aircraft better suited to a dusty outpost on Tatooine than the Americas. We showed up right on time, and of course no one had any idea who we were, why we were there, or how in Everyone was so the world we were going to get three giant excited by the show motorcycles into the back of a DC-3. that the crew forgot Admittedly, I love these kinds of chalto tie down the lenges, momentary setbacks just waiting bikes, or even latch for an entertaining solution. A few phone the rear door. calls from Mauricio and the ground crew was up to speed on the commitments the home office had made. The scowls slowly turned to smiles as we joked and talked through ways of loading the bikes. Did they have a truck with a ramp? “No.” A forklift? “No.” Mauricio finally asked, “How do you get the passengers on the plane?” The flightline crewman pointed at a small aluminum flight ladder. Wow, this was not going to work. When he inquired if they had any other ladders or portable stairs the loadmaster’s eyes lit up. “Yes, we have a ceremonial stairway which we use for dignitaries.” Micho smiled and announced, “Perfecto. We will ride the motorcycles UP that stairway.” The crew was convinced we were crazy and that our idea was ridiculous. Lucky for us they were far too intrigued by the pending destruction to say no, and the stairway was pushed to the open load door of the 70-year-old airplane. Micho and I both channelled our inner Evel Knievel, riding the BMWs up the ceremonial stairway on that lonely airfield in Puerto Carreño and into the back of the aircraft. Everyone was so excited by the show that the crew forgot to tie down the bikes, or even latch the rear door, a realization we came to at the last turn before takeoff when the cargo hatch flung open and the motorcycles shifted between the net and the fuselage. The only crewman on board leaped up, barely grabbing the handle before the hatch swung completely rearward, quickly pulling everything shut just as the pilots went full throttle on the Pratt & Whitney engines. Still in shock over the door and the completely unlashed BMWs, we realized that there was not a single seat belt on the aircraft—we could only laugh. After a few minutes the mid-century Douglas cargo plane leveled off and I looked over at the lump of riding gear shoved against dusty helmets and the worn rear tire of my GS Adventure. I stood from the jumpseat and part walked, part stumbled over to this inviting pile. Grabbing the handrail I knelt down and then rolled onto my back, a helmet serving as a makeshift pillow and my jacket making the most comfortable bed I have ever imagined. Only a few minutes passed before I was asleep, the radial engines humming me away from consciousness to dreams of the next adventure.

After a week of hard riding, the exhaustion took hold and I fell asleep in a heap next to my trusty steed. The pilots set a course west into the setting sun.

Overland Journal Winter 2015

Cartography by David Medeiros (mapbliss.com)

ROUTE Colombia

Overland Journal Winter 2015

The Power of Prometheus We evaluate 15 of the top camp stoves on the market to find which one brings the heat. By Christophe Noel

Overland Journal Winter 2015

he camp stove of today has not changed materially since its inception over a century ago. A derivative of the early industrial era blowtorch, the portable burner was originally an improvised means of heating a workday meal, an ironic fact given the culinary aptitude of some of our fellow overlanders. Although its exact provenance is regularly disputed, it can be jointly accredited to Swedes Carl Richard Nyberg (for his torch invention) and Frans Wilhelm Lindqvist (for his insight into its potential), and subsequently the foundation of the now-famous Primus company. Despite the common usage of the portable cooking burner since then and the seemingly endless array of options available today, choosing the right stove is often fraught with uncertainty and complexity. Multiple variables must be assessed, such as which fuels to burn, size, weight, field serviceability, and of course the most important facets of heat output and general performance. For most overlanders, their first decision is the careful selection of which fuel or fuels to use.

Fuels

Even the best stove is just a paperweight without the combustibles required to coax it to flame. Modern stoves burn a range of fuels, some readily available anywhere, others particularly difficult to locate in the developing world. While many offer a clean and safe ignition, others can cough plumes of smoke or present a fire hazard. These are by no means the only good stoves on the market, but represent the units we confidently recommend to our readers and fellow travelers.

Propane For the overlander, propane has a host of attractive benefits, primarily its ease of availability. The ability to store this gas (as a compressed liquid) in large refillable containers is a clear advantage, as is efficient combustion and relatively low cost. Most commonly stored under high pressure in heavy steel tanks, propane will never be an ideal solution where ounces count.

Fuel Cartridges The vast majority of lightweight stoves burn fuels packaged within small nonrefillable canisters and employ a universal Lindal self-sealing valve. These units contain varied percentages of propane, isobutane, and butane; the latter two fuels are added to reduce the pressure within the canister, allowing that container to be made of lightweight aluminum. Isobutane and butane also aid in cold weather combustion performance. Naphtha Also known as white gas or Coleman fuel, this liquid is often listed by stove manufacturers as their recommended choice. It produces a clean burn with little residue which reduces the need to clean intricate stove components. Kerosene and Diesel As it relates to portable burners, kerosene and diesel share similar properties, neither of which are particularly appealing. Producing heavy soot, these fuels are prone to clog the delicate inner workings of many stoves, mandating frequent service. Cheap and available throughout the world, they are nonetheless fuels of last resort. Gasoline For the majority of overlanders, gasoline reserves are carefully managed, making it a seemingly optimal fuel for stove use. Unfortunately, the highly volatile nature of gasoline makes it hazardous to handle and

The best way to test a stove is to put it to use in as many scenarios as possible, and in the conditions that class of product is designed for.

it is often damaging to delicate stove parts, particularly rubber seals and plastics. Avgas and Jet Fuel Aside from the obvious difficulty of acquiring these fuels, they are often expensive and don’t burn as well as naphtha. It is worth noting that avgas contains tetraethyl lead, a toxic additive that should be avoided. Jet fuel has similar properties to kerosene and burns with a sooty residue. Alcohol Generally used in small, uncomplicated burners, alcohol stoves are often reserved as solo or backup solutions. Not to suggest they are inferior in any way, but for this evaluation we focused on stoves with highoutput forced flame.

Stove Categories

In an effort to produce the most comprehensive test possible, we have included stoves best suited to a variety of applications. Ultralight burners are the preferred choice for bikepacking and ditch bags; they also make for ideal backup stoves. The now ubiquitous personal cooking system has been adopted by nearly every type of traveler. The most versatile stoves are those capable of cooking for small groups using either compressed fuel canisters or an assortment of liquid fuels. The largest units in the test are the two-burners, the Goliaths of backcountry cookery.

Testing Considerations

With so many categories of stoves to assess, it was imperative to restrict comparison to peer products. We carefully gauged fuel consumption, flame efficiency, boil times, and other measurable performance parameters. Knowing there is more to a proper evaluation than raw digits, we scrutinized the nonquantifiable elements that effect a stove’s utility. How easy is it to assemble, service, and clean? Neither did we ignore true culinary attributes such as simmer control, and the size and stability of the pot supports. To best assess the temperature control of each stove, we put them to the difficult test of preparing half a cup of rice—a challenge some stoves failed to pass. Build quality is paramount to the remote traveler and has a direct correlation to durability. Starting with a collection of more than 30 stoves, we narrowed the field to what we believe are the best 15 across five distinct categories. Overland Journal Winter 2015

Snow Peak

LiteMax Titanium

[ ULTRALIGHT ]

EDITOR’S CHOICE

$60

When the Snow Peak LiteMax first appeared in the backcountry, it recalibrated expectations of how small and powerful a stove could be. At only 1.9 ounces with the most diminutive folded size of any stove on the market, it also cranks out an impressive 11,200 BTU. For those in search of the ultimate in lightweight burners, this is about as good as it gets. When slipped into my pocket, it has less bulk than a set of keys. Constructed of titanium and anodized aluminum, the LiteMax has the impressive build quality commonly associated with Snow Peak. I still use an early version of this stove and it has survived years of hard use. Although the stove lacks an included ignition source, it does have nicely designed and executed features. The long wire throttle control is easily actuated and the fold-out pot supports create a surprisingly large and stable perch for smaller cups and pots. The LiteMax allows for precise flame control and holds a simmer better than many stoves in this category. The 45-minute burn time with a 100-gram isobutane/propane fuel cartridge makes it admirably economical. Our top pick for ultralight travels, it is also a superb backup stove. snowpeak.com, 503-697-3330

MSR 56

MicroRocket

$60

Close on the performance heels of the LiteMax is the popular MicroRocket from the stove mavens at MSR. Nearly identical in many ways to its Snow Peak competitor, the MicroRocket’s pot supports provide slightly more stability, and the included piezoelectric ignitor is a convenient addition. In the end, this category is defined by size, weight, and performance, and within those criteria the MicroRocket is a close runner-up to the Snow Peak. msrgear.com, 800-531-9531

Optimus

Crux

$50

There are two impressive features packed into this tiny unit. The first is the large diameter 10,200-BTU burner which distributes heat over a larger area than similar stoves. The second is the hinged pot supports and central pivot that allow the stove to fold flat. Designed to fit within the concave recess of a fuel cartridge, the Crux is the most easily transported stove in the mix, but lacks stability for extended field use. At only $50 it also represents an excellent value. optimusstoves.com, 800-755-6701 Overland Journal Winter 2015

[ PERSONAL COOKING SYSTEMS ]

MSR

WindBurner

EDITOR’S CHOICE

$130

With only two years on the market, the Windburner has captured our top pick for personal cooking systems. These stove combinations employ a cooking pot designed to mate to a specific burner as a means of bolstering performance, efficiency, and convenience. With their tall and slender cooking vessels, they are best suited to heating liquids and preparing meals for one. The WindBurner employs MSR’s proprietary radiant burner, a technology designed to protect the heat source from the elements for a more productive burn. Fueled by an isobutane/propane cartridge which can be stored with the burner inside the 1-liter pot, the Windburner is compact and durable. As the name would imply, it is all but unaffected by the most stout breeze. Over the course of many months of testing, our Windburner proved it can boil a half liter of water in as few as 90 seconds despite a humble 7,000-BTU output. That performance is the result of the proprietary burner and heat exchanger at the base of the cooking pot. With the best simmer control in the segment, the WindBurner can do far more than just boil water, and the optional coffee press and drinkthrough lid make it the perfect tool to start off a day in the backcountry. msrgear.com, 800-531-9531

Jetboil

MiniMo

$130

We would be remiss to not acknowledge that Jetboil deserves credit as the creator of the pot and stove combo we now recognize as the personal cook system. The latest riff on their original product, the MiniMo retains the high-efficiency burner, piezoelectric lighter, and heat exchanger that made their original system a favorite. With a large diameter 1-liter pot and improved simmer control, the MiniMo is well suited to general cooking duties and not just for bringing liquids to a rolling boil. The only foible with the MiniMo is its delicate construction, which will compromise long-term durability. jetboil.com, 888-611-9905

Primus

ETA Lite

$105

The stout ETA Lite system is just the type of product we would expect from the oldest name in portable stoves. The robust burner connects to the dedicated pot via a triangular-shaped wire bail and the well-defined heat exchanger envelopes the flame, permitting the ETA Lite to boil half a liter of water in under two minutes. Adding utility to the system, three small metal pot supports can be threaded into the burner to permit the use of any pot or pan. A few criticisms include the small pot volume and the easy-to-lose pot supports. primuscamping.com, 800-443-4871 Overland Journal Winter 2015

Primus

ETA Spider

EDITOR’S CHOICE

[ SMALL GROUP CANISTER ]

$160

For the soloist or small group looking for a lightweight system capable of full-range cooking duties, the Primus ETA Spider is our top choice. Designed to maximize burner efficiency with a dedicated windscreen and pot featuring a built-in heat exchanger, the Spider produced some of the fastest boil times of any unit in the test. More than just a powerful heat source, it also simmers well and excelled at our difficult rice cooking test. Fueled by an isobutane/propane canister, the ETA Spider can be upgraded to burn liquid fuels, thus adding to its versatility as an international travel solution. One of the notable refinements to the Spider is how the stove nests within the all-metal windscreen via three strong magnets. With a remotely positioned fuel canister, the Spider’s low stance shoulders the included aluminum 1-liter ceramic-coated pot with class-leading stability. The transparent lid has a built-in strainer, and large folding pot handles assure confidence when working with hot liquids. One of the better attributes of the Spider is how fuel efficient it is, reducing weight and volume in the vehicle. Included in the kit is a 1-liter pot, plastic bowl, piezoelectric lighter, and padded nylon case. In total, there are seven components to the Spider system, making it one of the better values in camp cookery. primuscamping.com, 800-443-4871

Jetboil 58

Joule

$200

The Joule’s 10,000-BTU burner is paired to Jetboil’s newly designed pressure regulator and inverted canister mount, producing optimized performance down to temperatures as low as 10ºF. The 2.5-liter pot is sufficient to cook meals for small groups, and the stove’s simmer control is vastly improved over previous Jetboil products. However, assembly is awkward, putting it behind the Primus stove as our category winner. jetboil.com, 888-611-9905

Snow Peak

Baja Burner

$180

Ideally designed to nest into Snow Peak’s Grill Table system, the Baja Burner also performs well on its own. With the largest burner, pot supports, and footprint in its class, the Baja is perfectly suited for use with full-size cookware. The 12,000-BTU output is a class leader, and the quality of materials and construction is superb. The one drawback to the Baja is the overall size and weight, which are double that of peer products. snowpeak.com, 503-697-3330

Overland Journal Winter 2015

MSR

[ SMALL GROUP MULTI-FUEL ]

Dragonfly

EDITOR’S CHOICE

$140

Having used a Dragonfly for well over a decade, it was difficult for me to enter this particular category without a slightly biased opinion. Reliable as a hammer, my stove has been fired hundreds of times without a single failure. In an effort to keep this test as objective as possible, we acquired a new unit and it performed just as well as my now-aged MSR, a testament to the design and construction of this popular stove. Able to burn white gas, kerosene, gasoline, diesel, and jet fuel, the Dragonfly has been lauded for decades as an ideal stove for international travel, particularly where fuel type and availability are uncertain. The patented Shaker Jet resists clogging, although a full field service and rebuild of the stove can be achieved in minutes with minimal tools. Perhaps the best qualities of the Dragonfly are its rock solid pot supports and the dual-valve temperature control. Few stoves offer a more precise simmer in all temperatures and at any elevation. While the MSR has won the category, the competition is closing in. msrgear.com, 800-531-9531

Optimus

Polaris Optifuel (with fuel bottle)

$180

Further complicating this category and making it a near three-way tie is the Optimus Polaris Optifuel. Like the other stoves in the category, it burns a number of fuels including naphtha, gasoline, diesel, kerosene, jet fuel, and compressed gas cartridges. What makes the Polaris unique is its capability to burn those fuels without the need to swap out the small fuel jet at the center of the burner. optimusstoves.com, 800-755-6701

Primus

OmniFuel

(with fuel bottle)

$180

The OmniFuel is similar to the Dragonfly in nearly every way, but has the added ability to burn isobutane/propane cartridge fuels making it even more versatile and convenient. Although the pot supports are not as large and the simmer control not as precise as the MSR, the OmniFuel is still an outstanding piece of equipment. Made with uncompromising quality, it is worthy of the Primus legacy. primuscamping.com, 800-443-4871 Overland Journal Winter 2015

Cook Partner

[ LARGE GROUP/EXPEDITION ]

EDITOR’S CHOICE

$260

It’s hard to believe how quickly time passes, but it was way back in 2007 when we initially reviewed the Cook Partner stove and gave it one of our first Editor’s Choice awards. Although stoves throughout the industry have evolved considerably since then, the Cook Partner has remained the same and is still a class-leading product. Designed to meet the demands of professional rafting guides and outfitters, the Cook Partner is built with a heavy-duty aluminum box construction, each component joined with precision welds. The burners and pot support grid are made of stainless steel and the only plastic to be found anywhere are the two flow control knobs, both recessed into the body of the stove for maximum protection. The twin 10,000BTU burners are shielded by large adjustable windscreens, and a sturdy aluminum handle makes for easy transport. The Cook Partner has become a stalwart addition to many vehicle builds, often permanently mounted to slide-outs and connected to large volume propane canisters. Capable of a lifetime of hard use, it will likely become a prized heirloom handed down to future generations of adventurers. partnersteel.com, 208-233-2371

Coleman 60

FyreChampion

$180

Coleman’s latest stove features updated technologies that made it one of our biggest surprises in the test and nearly toppled the Cook Partner as our category favorite. The new 12,000-BTU HyperFlame burners are nestled within protective shrouds and produce large areas of even heat with superb simmer control. We were impressed by the robust design and quality construction. The FyreChampion also comes complete with two nonstick cooking surfaces for maximum versatility. coleman.com, 800-835-3278

Primus

Profile

$100

With dual burners, each producing a respectable 12,000 BTUs, the Primus Profile is a quality stove made available at a nominal purchase price. Compatible with the easily sourced (in North America) onepound propane canister, it can also be modified to work with larger bulk containers. More rugged than we anticipated, it has survived a few hard knocks and abuses that would have ruined lesser stoves. primuscamping.com, 800-443-4871

Overland Journal Winter 2015

Conclusions

EDITORIAL COVERING EVERY ASPECT OF A D V E N T U R E T R AV E L 5 0 + T O P I C C AT E G O R Y F O R U M

E X P E D I T I O N P O R TA L . C O M

Photo by Sinuhe Xavier

rom the onset of this evaluation, we conceded there was much more to a good camp stove than BTU scores and speedy boil times. Those numbers are meaningless if a stove fails to light on a cold morning, tips over and spills your soup in the dirt, or falls apart in transit. The only way to fully evaluate a stove is to take it to the backcountry and live with it, which is precisely what we did. We burned a lot of fuel and rice in the process, but the results were telling. The most significant innovations in the last few years fall within the range of personal cook systems and the widespread use of the integrated heat exchanger. Taking it a step further, MSR’s radiant burner creates a stove with unrivaled efficiency, and the feature-rich design makes it one of the best stoves we have used in years. Built like a proper tool, it is easy to use and extremely durable. The Primus ETA Spider was an unexpected surprise. More than once it impressed with its rapid boil time and better than average fuel efficiency. The padded case and extra accessories make it a sound choice for motorcycle travel, particularly when pushing beyond the typical duties of boiling water for coffee and dehydrated meals. The toughest trio of stoves to test and compare were the Dragonfly, OmniFuel, and Polaris Optifuel, which realistically could be awarded a three-way tie. Each has their own unique benefits and they all work flawlessly. The Dragonfly’s larger pot supports, excellent simmer, and proven track record ultimately gave it the edge. The biggest stove (much like the smallest) proved that innovation is not always the best recipe for continued success. Both the Snow Peak LiteMax and Partner Steel Cook Partner have gone unchanged for several years, but they remain the best in their respective classes. The Cook Partner is so well-constructed and thoughtfully designed that to levy any criticisms against it would seem contrived. As an appliance designed for outfitters and outdoor professionals, it is a product we champion (and have used around the world) without hesitation. What started out as a pile of more than 30 products was circumspectly reduced to these top 5 stoves and the 10 runners-up. These are by no means the only good stoves on the market, but represent the units we confidently recommend to our readers and fellow travelers. Whether warming a cup of tea or cooking for a group of hungry adventurers, one of these Editor’s Choice winners will serve reliably for years. If not, you could always go back to warming your meal the old fashioned way—with a blowtorch. Crème Brûlée, anyone?

GREAT RESOURCE FOR PLANNING YOUR NEXT TRIP OR EQUIPMENT PURCHASE Overland Journal Winter 2015

Stove Comparison

Manufacturer

Snow Peak

MSR

Optimus

MSR

Jetboil

Primus

Model

LiteMax

MicroRocket

Crux

Windburner

MiniMo

ETA Lite

Price

$60

$50

$130

$105

Fuel

Compressed fuel cartridge

Number of burners

BTU

11,200

10,000

10,200

7,000

10,200

8,900

Boil time* (0.5 L)

2:51

2:33

2:48

2:10

2:20

2:27

Weight (oz)

1.9

2.6

2.9

15.25

14.6

14.8

Stowed dimensions (l/w/h, in)

3/2.7/1.3

3/2/3

1.3/2.3/3.3

8.3 dia/4.5 h

6.25 dia/5 h

6.5 dia/4.5 h

Warranty

Limited lifetime

2-year

Limited lifetime

1-year

Limited lifetime

Included ignitor

Yes

Country of origin

Korea

USA

Taiwan

USA

China

Estonia

Manufacturer

Primus

Jetboil

Snow Peak

MSR

Optimus

Primus

Model

ETA Spider

Joule

Baja Burner

Dragonfly

Polaris Optifuel

Omnifuel

Price

$160

$200

$180

$140

$180 w/bottle

Fuel

Compressed fuel cartridge

White gas, kerosene, diesel, petrol, aviation gas, stoddard solvent, naphtha

White gas, kerosene, diesel, jet fuel, compressed canister fuel

White gas, petrol, diesel, kerosene, jet fuel, compressed canister fuel

Number of burners

BTU

7,000

10,000

12,000

10,000

10,200

10,500

Boil time* (1 L)

2:40

2:54

4:20

3:37

4:03

3:41

Weight (oz)

30.4

96.4

17 w/bottle

16.75

15.9 w/bottle

Stowed dimensions (l/w/h, in)

6.1 dia/4.3 h

6.5 dia/8 h

14/9.8/5.5

6.3/5/3.5

5.52/3.2/2.56

5.6/3.5/2.6

Warranty

Limited lifetime

1-year

Limited lifetime

Included ignitor

Yes

Country of origin

Estonia

China

Japan

USA

Taiwan

Estonia

Manufacturer

Partner Steel

Coleman

Primus

Model

Cook Partner

FyreChampion

Profile

Price

$260

$180

$100

Fuel

Propane

Number of burners

BTU

10,000 per burner

12,000 per burner

Boil time* (1 L)

5:05

3:55

4:48

Weight (oz)

198

177

144

Stowed dimensions (l/w/h, in)

16/12/4

27.7/15.5/6.8

23/12.6/3.9

Warranty

3-year

Limited lifetime

Included ignitor

Yes

Country of origin

USA

China

Overland Journal Winter 2015

* Test conditions for boil times: Water, fuel, and air temperature was an ambient 75˚F. Elevation: 5,171 feet, zero wind

Overland Journal Winter 2015

Lati tude

Portfolio by Chris Burkard/Massif

Flow

63-64°N

Overland Journal Winter 2015

Gold Fever in Guyana Coen Wubbels and Karin-Marijke Vis venture deep into the wilds of the Pakaraima Rainforest to explore Guyana’s most profitable industry. By Karin-Marijke Vis Photography by Coen Wubbels

Overland Journal Winter 2015

Clockwise from top: Villagers line up to buy the latest news. The camp cook salts beef for the miners. Loading up the ferry to Bartica. A woman exchanged her earnings in gold for money at Fabricio’s place. Opposite, clockwise from top: A small bowl of fortune. You could buy a nice Land Cruiser with this piece of gold. From liquid to solid in under one minute. Overland Journal Winter 2015

“A SHOUT!

THEY FOUND GOLD IN MAHDIA!”

a newspaper vendor cried. Locals were hovering around, all wanting to hear the latest news. Who was the lucky guy that found a gold vein, a bounty that would ensure him millions of dollars? We had stumbled upon a unique event— the last “shout” (or “lash”) had been years ago—and we were determined to see the discovery with our own eyes.

GUYANA’S GATEWAY TO THE INTERIOR

We prepared ourselves for a challenging journey into Guyana’s tall timber and stocked up on fuel, food, and drinking water. From the capital of Georgetown we took a seven-hour ferry ride to Bartica, a frontier town and the gateway to Guyana’s interior, a region home to great numbers of legal and illegal gold mines.

Miners come to Bartica to drink, gamble, find a girl, and of course, sell their gold. Buyers have inconspicuous looking offices with signs stating their line of work: “We buy gold.” The buildings are monitored by security cameras, and the offices are typically furnished with a couch, TV (showing a Bollywood movie), large wooden desk, fridge, and coffee maker. After asking around for nearly a day, we were invited by a young Brazilian named Fabricio into his air-conditioned inner sanctum, located behind a series of doors.

REFINING

Fabricio pulled out a bowl containing what appeared to be worthless chunks of something. The value of that “rubbish” was over $15,000 USD. You’d better know your business when dealing with such numbers. The dirty material had already been smelted in the mines to remove the mercury. The use of mercury is legal in Guyana, but the material is expensive: $250 USD per kilo. If not for environmental reasons, money is a strong motivator to use it efficiently. Fabricio lit a large torch and melted the chunks until it was a nasty looking boiling concoction. He added a dash of borax, which glues sand, dirt, and dust together so that it can be easily scraped away. The remaining liquid solidified as soon as it was poured into a mold. Fabricio picked it up with a pair of pincers and cooled it in a bucket of water. And there it was, an ingot of 300 grams of solid gold. Coen wanted

Overland Journal Winter 2015

to take a picture. “Sure, no problem. Take it outside so you’ll have better light,” Fabricio suggested. Such trust! Not only in us, but in others who could simply snatch the bar out of our hands while Coen was taking his photo. Fortunately, Bartica was not a dangerous town. Gold mining has been largely legalized in Guyana and with it came proper security measures and safety regulations. The town resounded with vibrancy, a pleasant chaos of trucks and cars driving It felt good to be up and down, blocking the road here, far away in the process. Curbside stalls and from the modern vans filled the streets, displaying world, knowing their wares of ice boxes, table-top we were about to stoves, buckets, jerry cans, an arreach the back of ray of lanterns, heavy equipment, beyond where few and boots. people travel. The most common trucks used to transport drums of fuel, spare parts, and other supplies to the mines are green Bedfords imported from England (until 1966 Guyana was a British colony). The humongous lorries have spring-over axles, giving them more clearance on the deeply rutted tracks that characterize the region. Although the majority of trucks must date from antiquity, no driver really seems to know how old his vehicle is.

FINDING MAHDIA

Clockwise from opposite top left: The Land Cruiser reverses off the Shamira ferry. Bedford trucks load up for another run into the jungle. Heading south on the pockmarked laterite road toward Mahdia. The latest fashion from Brazil for sale on Bartica’s sidewalk. We help fix an old Bedford along the side of the road while enjoying a cold Guinness.

We stayed three days in Bartica, wandering the streets and chatting with locals, many of whom invited us for a soda or beer. Then it was time to move on and check out the real thing: gold mining. Mahdia was the place to go, people told us. The question was how to get there. The only track on any map that connected Bartica and Mahdia, the Potaro Road, no longer existed. An already week-long strike on the country’s main throughway blocked all traffic going north to south, cutting off a second route. That left us with one option—to go straight through the rainforest via the Shamira and Mango Crossings. We topped up our supplies and set out in a southerly direction. Soon we found ourselves swerving around potholes on a laterite road, which alternated with stretches of sifting yellow sand. In shady parts, where the sun couldn’t penetrate, we slogged through mud tracks. The Land Cruiser was performing well, taking all obstacles with ease and grace. We didn’t have a proper map and the route wasn’t on our GPS, so we depended on occasional Bedford drivers to point us in the right direction. At the Shamira Crossing the river was wide and there was a strong current. The ferry couldn’t reach the riverbank, so the Land Cruiser waded a few meters through deep water and drove on without a hiccup. From the other bank it was a gamble to pick the right tracks that would lead to our destination—like finding your way in a labyrinth. We came across a logging concession where we could camp for the night. The morning felt refreshingly cool, and hundreds of birds were twittering their early morning songs. It felt good to be here, far away from the modern world, Overland Journal Winter 2015

knowing we were about to reach the back of beyond where few people travel. There was something soothing about the rocking motion of the car as we drove on the laterite road. Clouds came and went; the sun peeked through, illuminating the red sand, black gravel, mud tracks, and rutted trails— a green ocean of dense rainforest all around us. Lining the road were thick brush and low trees, with pools of blackened water occasionally flooding the shoulder. Throughout the route we encountered no traffic exI am walking cept for two men on foot, one carrying on gold, a bicycle. The only other traveler was a I thought. 2-meter-long green snake, moving lazily in the middle of the road. Detecting the It was a startling idea. vibrations from our approaching tires, it vaulted up in a 180-degree turn and sailed off into the forest. Startled by the acrobatic reptile, we coasted to a stop and turned off the engine for a break. We took in the silence of the natural world around us, our solitude interrupted only by the sound of screeching crickets. It was as if civilization had vanished, leaving only the jungle, this dusty track, and our faithful Land Cruiser.

ANTONIO’S GOLD MINE

After two days of driving, we encountered our first excavation pit. Its appearance caused Coen to hit the brakes hard, sliding the Land Cruiser to the edge of the road. A man wearing a cowboy hat looked up, revealing a deeply weathered face and glaring eyes; his dogs snarled at us with suspicion. It took a while to dispel the miner’s mistrust. This is understandable given that foreigners with cameras often mean negative media coverage of the gold mines. We explained who we were and our curiosity about his business. It probably helped that we spoke Portuguese and had extensively traveled his home country of Brazil. After a bit of chatting, his scowl relaxed. “Okay,” Antonio said. “I’ll show you around. Follow me.” Ten minutes later we were standing at the edge of the pit studying the carnage within. From the air it must look as if Guyana’s rainforest has caught a grotesque skin disease, as throughout the forest’s green body are these yellow pockets of earth, bare and infested. At the base of the 30-meter earthen wall, two miners needed all their strength to manhandle their hoses, bucking them back and forth as chocolate brown water burst at full force. They calculated where to aim the continuous flow of water, breaking up large clumps of sand; when nothing remained but a piece of rock, a third worker would grab it and throw it on a pile. Two generators dominated the soundtrack of this tortured landscape. Without a thought, I followed Antonio through a bath filled with yellowed runoff and lined with “magic mats,” as miners call them. These pads catch gold dust and gold flakes from the water that comes rushing through the sluice-box. I am walking on gold, I thought. It was a startling idea. On second thought, wading through gold might be a better way to describe it. Overland Journal Winter 2015

Clockwise from top right: After Antonio is done mining, the law states he has to return the area back to its natural state. Out in the field you fabricate your own tools. Maria, Antonio’s wife, panning for gold. Gold specks fill the magic mat. The Cruiser trundling along a rugged logging track.

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The region is home to Guyanese and Brazilians who work well together. Antonio was very specific about this, “I don’t allow Guyanese to do the hosing; they’ll screw up. Only Brazilians know how to handle it. On the other hand, the Guyanese are the best at working those excavators; Brazilians will ruin them.” Many Brazilians are illegal, largely because it may take years to get their paperwork in order. “Corruption, corruption,” Antonio sighed. “Everything takes ages in this country. My mine is legal and I pay taxes, but to get the proper permits for my workers I have to return to Georgetown constantly, signing more papers, paying more money,” he explained.

MAHDIA

82 Back from a panning job, these guys throw some Vs to the camera. Simple wooden houses make up the gold miners’ town of Mahdia. Right: The Land Cruiser at its best. Opposite: The Land Cruiser slowly but deliberately eats its way through water and mud.

After finishing our tour and enjoying a hearty Brazilian meal in the mining camp, we said our good-byes and drove the last kilometers to Mahdia. The place felt relaxed and safe—a far cry from anything potentially resembling a “gold fever” town. Contrary to most places in South America, the houses had no burglar bars. Not one. Some had a rickety fence around the garden but that was probably to keep dogs out, or the goats in. We talked to all kinds of people—miners, taxi drivers, and policemen—who were eager to share their part of the world with us. Shops attracted the interest of workers with illegal DVDs, fancy-looking clothes, and fridges stocked with beer. Women tried their best to catch a miner for a husband or perhaps just for the night; dressed in shorts, tank tops, and high heels they picked their way around the potholed road and leaned against the walls. We met Roger Hindt, who is the “Godfather” of sorts for Mahdia. He became rich at the age of 17 and in short order lost his entire fortune, then moved to Mahdia and ultimately built the town. He had lived there for 21 years, knew everything and everybody, and owned the sole hotel in town as well as the biggest supermarket. Hindt was also in charge of the bush pilots flying between Mahdia and Georgetown.

THE SHOUT

Like in Bartica, the shout continued to be the talk of town. This is what all miners hope for and dream of. This is why they live in the rainforest, sleep in hammocks, suffer from malaria, and pray to be spared a fatal snake bite or lethal disease. They struggle through mud, wade through streams, and cut down undergrowth, hacking paths through suffocating vegetation. Three weeks prior, one guy struck it lucky. We drove to the shout nine miles further down the road, now referred to as the “Nine-mile Shout.” We parked the Overland Journal Winter 2015

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Land Cruiser next to a hut and hiked uphill as it was impossible to drive up the slick, muddy track; a supply truck in front of us had gotten stuck and needed to be pulled into camp by an excavator. Around a curve we spotted opensided tents. Tough-looking, barechested, and unshaven men lazed in hammocks. One of them, built like a brick wall (think Mr. B.A. from The A-team) walked up to us. “Are you the boss?” Coen asked. The man introduced himself as Tyler and listened to what we had to say. “No problem, I’ll get you someone to guide you around.” Within a few minutes we became acquainted with Blake, a soft-spoken and friendly guy dressed in shorts and rubber boots, his muscled body tattooed with animals and glistening with sweat. A gun was stuck in his shorts.

DOWN THE PIT

The mine was in its early preparatory stage. Charley, the excavator, was maneuvering the engine that would pump up the slush to the sluice-boxes. The whole process would take another couple of weeks. “The forest is like a human body,” Blake explained. “The trees and roots are like its veins running all over the place. Gold runs through that body as well and sometimes it hits the surface, which they call a shout. This means there’s a ‘string’ and that is where the mining begins. If we’re lucky she runs just below the

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Clockwise from top right: The Land Cruiser gets stuck while searching for a place to camp. “You want to buy some gold?” the pork knockers ask us. Guyana has a strong reggae influence from Jamaica; we even see the country’s flag displayed on people’s teeth. No effort is spared in obtaining the perfect curls. Proud pork knockers show us their treasures. Overland Journal Winter 2015

surface for a good distance, but if not, if she disappears into the earth, we will have a hard time hunting her. If the men don’t know their job and don’t dig a proper pit, the whole place may collapse and accidents will follow.” The initial harvest would be 100-300 ounces per day, waning to around 50-70 ounces per day, which is still extremely lucrative. I remembered Antonio talking about a harvest of 4-8 ounces per week. None of the workers knew how long they would be able to mine here. Some shouts are only productive for months, while others continue on for years. It was all about following the vein until it ran dry or connected to an adjacent claim. We saw dozens of people walking around, but Blake said only eight were hired by the company. The others were “pork knockers” (freelance gold hunters) trying their luck. “That’s how it goes. The string is ours but others can search around the vein. Like sparrows pinching breadcrumbs they scavenge around the discarded piles of earth. As long as they are not in the way or steal, that’s okay with us. We all started out like that.” I found his remark interesting and particularly thoughtful. In this rough, Wild West world, there is

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still room for kindness. Live and let live. He looked at us with a smile, “You could try your luck as well if you want to. All you need is a metal detector, patience, We had already and determination.” struck it lucky 12 Was that why we were years ago when we here, to actually join the decided to leave gold fever? Coen and I our suburban lives concluded that while it had and swap them for been fabulous to watch evlife on the road. ery single step of the mining process, we had already struck it lucky 12 years ago when we decided to leave our suburban lives and swap them for life on the road. Our journey hadn’t come to an end here; many more adventures awaited us. We said our good-byes to the miners of Mahdia and set our course for more of the world’s treasures.

The Land Cruiser conquers tough trails in the forest.

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Cartography by David Medeiros (mapbliss.com)

ROUTE Guyana

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Along the Old Mojave Road A solo motorcycle adventure through geology and time. By Jim Downs

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Scanning the route ahead, everything looked wrong.

The shortcut I had taken through the desert narrowed from a rough Jeep road into a vague two-track that looked like it had last been traversed by wagon wheels. Spiny desert scrub and creosote closed in around the front wheel of my 680-pound motorcycle, leaving little room to maneuver through the deepening sand. Between glances at the GPS, the two-track road had evaporated into a smaller side-track heading into the vast desert. The big BMW GS Adventure bucked over rocks, plowing alongside thick and thorny brambles while I dodged the dagger-tipped spines of Joshua trees overhead. By the time I picked up the main trail again, I was gasping for air and could feel my heart beating through the armor of my riding jacket. I pulled off my sweat-soaked helmet to catch a breath, the warm, arid breeze serving as a refreshing tonic to my oxygen-starved lungs. I needed this break from the dutiful rhythm of the BMW’s motor. The quiet sounds of the Mojave swirled about: wind through yucca and Joshua trees, and the quick patter of a kangaroo mouse scurrying across the sand. The well water in my hydration pack tasted sweet as I pulled long, cool drafts and looked to the February sun which would be with me for only a few hours more. I was lost somewhere in the heart of Southern California’s Mojave National Preserve; my two-wheeled machine had delivered me to yet another crossroad of bliss and adventure. The GPS revealed that the trail I should have been on was actually a half mile to the south, but I decided to pick up the correct trail by heading down the faint single-track I was on. It is moments like this that draw me back to the remote Desert Southwest. When lost and challenged by the raw spirit and beauty of nature, I sometimes catch a glimpse of a deeper truth. For fleeting moments I feel clarity and purpose, where intuition and religion align with science, history, and the sum of human knowledge. Over the past two days and nights of backcountry exploration, I had climbed through geologic wonders and seen the marks of ancient man inscribed on the rocks of sacred places. My steps retraced those of devoted Spanish friars and intrepid American pioneers whose sweat and blood settled the American West. Before my trip into the Mojave Preserve I was like the millions of other motorists that pass along the major interstates that form its northern and southern boundaries: completely unaware that this seemingly featureless desert is in fact the largest national preserve in the continental United States. Within its perimeter are over a thousand miles of challenging 4WD trails, countless remote camping locations, and a treasure trove of significant and prehistoric landmarks. Located halfway between Los Angeles, California, and Las Vegas, Nevada, the Mojave Preserve encompasses 1.6 million acres of pristine desert, ranging in elevation from 880 feet at Baker to nearly 8,000 feet at Clark Mountain. More remarkably (and of benefit to the adventurer), the Mojave is rarely visited, providing ample opportunity for solitude. Back on the motorcycle, I continued to follow the trail deeper into the desert, hoping to reconnect with the road I meant to be on. Even though I have ridden tens of thousands of miles throughout the Southwestern United States, I am always surprised at how I manage to get lost (wander) using a GPS. Backcountry navigation is vastly different from following directions in the city, where street names and Overland Journal Winter 2015

Clockwise from top: From atop the crater on one of the many cinder cones the lava flow can be seen stretching out for miles. Even the hot baths at Zzyzx were a fraud. Concealed boilers warmed the water that was passed off to patrons of the health spa as being from a natural hot spring. The northern entrance to the preserve. A fossilized tree branch inside the crater at Fossil Falls provides a clue to what the climate might have been like at the time of eruption. Center: Crystallized “soda” on the shores of Soda Lake was what the miners of the 1800s were after. The soda was concentrated in evaporation trenches and then processed into chemical products used in everything from soaps to gunpowder.

intersections are definitive. In the desert, trail intersections can converge at odd angles. Sometimes, the correct turn at a crossroad is made by first heading in the opposite direction. Even more vexing are trails not shown on the GPS or marked on paper maps. The only way to know for sure which road is correct is to simply choose a direction and check your progress en route, a navigational task made all the more challenging when combined with riding a heavy adventure motorcycle on difficult terrain. The meager Jeep trail I was on again turned to two-track and I was bounding across rugged desert. Even though it was only another half mile to the main road, the topography presented a morass of hazards. Bike-toppling obstacles lay hidden everywhere: fallen yucca and Joshua trees, foot-long cactus spines, and gaping washed-out trenches large enough The quiet sounds to swallow the front wheel. This route of the Mojave called upon every heavy motorcycle ridswirled about: wind ing skill I had. The serenity I enjoyed durthrough the yucca ing my brief rest had been replaced with complete concentration and total physical and Joshua trees, exertion. and the quick patter Two days earlier I had made my first of a kangaroo stop at a place called Zzyzx on the western mouse scurrying edge of the preserve. Nestled at the base across the sand. of rocky hills along the shore of a vast dry lake, the area has been used for many purposes since the first visiting European, Spanish missionary Francisco Garcés, was led there by the Mojave Indians. The brackish spring that still flows there today made it an important stop along this ancient trade route, which was established by American Indians and used for thousands of years. Today, the maintained structures that once made up a mineral spa and health resort in the 1940s are now the home of California State University’s Desert Studies Center. Taking a short walk on the banks of the dry Soda Lake, following the edge of Zzyzx Road, revealed some of the area’s unique history. A snake oil salesman named Curtis Howe Springer acquired this land for his health spa from the federal government in the 1940s under a questionable mining claim, and gave the place its modern name of Zzyzx. For centuries it had been called Camp Soda, and then Soda Springs, serving as a rail stop for the Pacific Salt and Soda Company. Before its commercial uses, it was a U.S. Army post, a wagon train stop, and even a prehistoric quarry. Its location along the Old Mojave Road tells the story of indigenous peoples, Spanish missionaries, the first pioneer settlers, and the prospectors who came and went over the centuries. The history of Zzyzx typifies that of the American West, echoing its themes of exploration, expansion, conquest, and industry. All of these activities were governed by the harshness of the environment there. Hundreds have succumbed to the elements of the Mojave—and many still do. I was a mile from the main road when the trail required crossing a wide, dry wash. Its soft, sandy bottom was at first a welcome relief from the suspension-pounding rocks and ditches on higher ground. However, I could not have predicted the suffering the wash’s deep silt would inflict on my already-exhausted body. Handling a large motorcycle on sand like this is best accomplished with a good amount of speed, but the wash was too clogged with debris and crisscrossing channels to safely build momentum. Forced to move slowly, my front wheel became ineffective, acting like the backwards rudder on Overland Journal Winter 2015

Overland Journal Winter 2015

a boat, sinking in and dragging to the left and the right. The massive motorcycle felt like it was constantly falling over and out of control, and took a huge physical effort to ride. Laboring to the far side of the wash I found a bank that looked like the exit for the trail, with a gentle enough slope to ride the motorcycle up and out of the silt. Making a run at it, my angle was wrong and a nearby tree kept me from carrying enough speed. The massive All forward progress came to a halt. The motorcycle felt like BMW’s rear wheel spun in, burying itself it was constantly down to the axle and crash pan; the skid falling over and out plate bottomed out on the steep incline. of control, and took With more than two hours of daylight a huge physical remaining and plenty of water, I began the effort to ride. task of digging out the machine. Having been stuck in similar situations, I knew that pushing the bike onto its side and pulling it around into the wash would be easier than trying to dig it out where it stood. What I didn’t account for was the softness of the sand making the machine impossible to drag. Realizing my mistake after pushing the bike over, I made one try at lifting it back up. At the crux of my attempt, I was stabbed on the top of the head by the spine of a Joshua tree, its barb snapping off in my scalp as I dropped the bike and clutched at my head. Retrieving my small shovel, I began to dig the bike out while the wound on my head throbbed. While inconvenient and certainly painful, dealing with my hardship in the wash hadn’t become dire. I had water, extra food, camping supplies, and if I got in real trouble, a satellite locator device. My predicament was easy when compared to that of earlier travelers along the Mojave Road. I thought of Padre Garcés’ first trek through this expanse, well before the railroads spanned the continent. Passage through this section of desert was wrought with danger, and distance was measured against days and weeks, not hours and minutes. Nightly stops were dictated by the availability of water or shelter. One such stopover is called 17 Mile Point. Named for its position halfway between two watering springs, the current campsite at 17 Mile Point is the same one used by wagon trains moving along the Old Mojave Road during the early settlement of the West. Above the campsite, rock outcroppings feature numerous petroglyphs created by the native people who used the location for generations. Still in the wash, I had dug out a huge volume of sand and was getting close to making a second attempt to squat-lift the motorcycle. Digging in the earth under the baking sun kindled memories of the geologic sites I had visited the day before. The northwestern part of the Mojave Preserve known as the Cinder Cone Lava Beds is filled with numerous cinder cones, small volcanoes, and craters. When active, the entire area flowed with liquid rock down the slope to the southwest, following the contours of the earth. The place known as Fossil Falls is Clockwise from top: As frozen rock the lava falls make for a dramatic landscape—in its molten state it must have been spectacular. The perspective from within the falls: the view up into the cinder cone and the source of the lava flow. Some of the many unmolested petroglyph sites within the Mojave Preserve. Flowing water and sand have smoothed the upper step of the lava falls. A huge fossilized log with preserved bark and growth rings lies halfburied in front of one of the steps of the lava falls. Opposite: Uneven terrain in the Mojave can make travel difficult. Roads and washes can remain hidden until your front wheel is right on top of them. Overland Journal Winter 2015

Overland Journal Winter 2015

an area where lava had poured out of a huge crater and down a wash, over steep ledges that created spectacular steps—a frozen lava rock waterfall. From the lava falls, I took a short hike up to the cinder cone that produced the flow. A closer look at many of the rocks that clutter the ground revealed that they were actually chunks of ancient trees which had been engulfed beneath flows of liquid rock, flash-preserved into rocky fossils. There were hundreds of burls, branches, and logs, on many of which bark and wood grain was plainly evident. While I wasn’t certain how long ago the lava flows had occurred, the evidence suggested that the climate here at the time of the flow must have been vastly different than it is today in order to support so much flora. Self-preservation usually prevents me from taking impromptu spelunking expeditions into caves and mines; however, not far from Fossil Falls is a cave that visitors are encouraged to explore. Located about 10 miles Strange rocky from the nearest pavement, the route to formations covered the entrance covers a challenging mix of the walls and ceiling rock-strewn lava flows, step-ups, and sand of the cavern’s washes. The cave is a short walk past a womb-like depths. series of small, ominous holes in the ground that drop away into inky darkness. Further up the path the lava tube opens through the widest section of its collapsed ceiling. The National Park Service has installed a steel staircase allowing a somewhat less hazardous way down. Once down the stairs, a bit of crawling on all fours was required to get into the main room of the cavern. From inside the chamber, the dark holes in the ground above form skylights on the ceiling, streaming beams of sunlight into the darkness. Once inside, I sat for a long time in the cool stillness of the lava tube’s subterranean world. I wondered how many other caverns lie undiscovered beneath the surface, each unique and mysterious, ensconced for thousands of years and never explored by human eyes. Strange rocky formations covered the walls and ceiling of the cavern’s womb-like depths. What had early man made of this place? What explanations had their shamans devised? Surely their imaginations were fueled by a natural intuition that this relic of geologic creation was linked to their own. The columns of white sunlight that beamed down into the darkness chronicled the passage of the day as they tracked across the cave’s dusty floor. Like the long hands of a celestial clock stretching out from the surface of the sun, their eternal motion illuminated the secret workings of not only this cavern, but the solar system itself. The elemental convergence of earth and sky within the lava tube spoke a common truth about the universe in a tongue comprehensible to both the ancient mystic and the modern scientist alike. My attention came back to the motorcycle and my feverish digging—the BMW was still stuck, but finally ready to lift from its side. I had dug out deep divots of earth and sand around the tires and created solid foot rests that would provide extra leverage for the lift. To make the effort certain, I had also removed the tank bag, water pack, and top bag. I had lost precious hours of daylight, but if there were no more delays I might make it to Shaman’s Eye, my final stop on this adventure. With one labored press I lifted the BMW from the grip of the wash and onto its side stand. I pushed against the bars, simultaneously operating the clutch and throttle, the rear tire and my boots clawing against

Top to bottom: Strange holes in the ground along the short hike up to the lava tube form skylights in the cavern that lies beneath. One of the many unique subterranean formations within the lava tube. Winter temperatures are generally mild in the Mojave Preserve. Opposite: Even though sections of the cave are illuminated by natural skylights in the ceiling, be sure to bring a flashlight for exploring the cavern at the lava tube.

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the sandy ledge. Within moments the motorcycle crested the lip and accelerated, nearly taking me off my feet. I had made it. Back on the high-speed dirt track, I pushed the GS Adventure hard, the sweat from digging in the wash stinging my eyes and soaking my shirt. The sun was low on the horizon, but I was nearing Shaman’s Eye. With only 15 minutes before sunset, the elusive formation came into view. From atop a dormant, exposed volcano core the mysteriSunrise was ous ocular loomed down at me from the extraordinary: the west. The eye was formed by a massive red stones came eroded keyhole puncturing the top of alive with light, the the volcanic neck. Illuminated by the setarea abuzz with ting sun, the eye seemed to acknowledge desert life as the me and my machine beneath a knowsun warmed the ing gaze, as if it perceived all along that formations. I would arrive in time to pay it respect while there was still light in the sky. The stunning rock formations that run to the west of Hole-inthe-Wall were formed eons ago when volcanic eruptions blew huge clouds of vaporized rock and ash across the ground at the speed of sound. As the rock clouds cooled and froze into place gaseous bubbles formed, creating pockets in the molten earth as it settled into rock. With the passage of time, wind and water have eroded the holes into fascinating caves and depressions that give the rocks a Swiss cheese appearance and thus its name. Sunrise was extraordinary: the red stones came alive with light, the area abuzz with desert life as the sun warmed the formations. The Native Americans that lived here long before the first Europeans believed that the Great Shaman arrived on Earth through the hole of the eye and then created mankind. While this origin story is both familiar and simplistic, perhaps there is a less obvious truth in their creation myth. Maybe the elements that define existence lie less in the biological facts, but more with the moment we learned to imagine our creation. Could humanity itself be defined by our need to seek out the curious places and give them meaning? Our need to seek adventure in the wild and explore the unknown is a way of connecting ourselves with the Earth and those who came before us. Perhaps the Shaman’s Eye version of creation is true in this way, as it represents one of the many awakenings of human imagination. Imagination is this lasting instinct that sets our kind on the ultimate adventure. The tension and rigor of my ride through the Mojave Preserve was all worth it, causing me to linger a bit longer and cling to the last moments of twilight, desperate to delay my reconnection to the modern age.

Clockwise from top left: The sun set over the volcanic rim. The Ring Loop Trail at Hole-in-the-Wall features a climbing section aided by steel rings that have been hammered into the rock. At dawn, the desert around the camp at Hole-in-the-Wall comes to life with morning sunlight. Pockets in the rock provided inspiration for Hole-in-the-Wall’s name. During the winter solstice the sunrise intersected the hole of Shaman’s Eye.

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No Cell, No Service, No Problem Chris Collard hits the Wyoming high country in Sportsmobile’s latest adventure machine: the four-wheel drive Sprinter Mojave. By Chris Collard

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lthough I’ve never owned a BIG overland rig, the idea of having my house behind the driver’s seat has always been appealing. Whether it is a Volkswagen Syncro or Mitsubishi Delica, the advantages of being able to shut down the motor, set the emergency brake, and step into a comfortable, dry abode are indisputable. When we received word that Sportsmobile was collaborating with Mercedes-Benz on a Sprinter conversion, my curiosity level was heightened. While utility vans are quite useful for hauling motorcycles and shop supplies, I wondered if the Sprinter could be successfully modified for adventure travel. My reservations were addressed when I witnessed the four-wheel drive Mojave 2500 firsthand—at which time I hastily queried the possibility of borrowing one. My efforts were rewarded a few weeks later when my wife, Suzanne, and I were motoring across Nevada en route to Wyoming with nothing in front of us but 10 free days on the calendar. Sitting high in the comfortable leather captain’s chairs provides a commanding view of the road and trail, usually over the rooflines of other traffic. The cockpit is spacious, instruments are in clear view, and controls lie within easy reach of the driver. If you are a collector of junk (maps, brochures, and other knickknacks), you will love the numerous shelves and cubbies on the dash. My only gripe with regard to the cab is that the drink holders are too close together and too short: a travel mug of joe can easily find its way to the Overland Journal Winter 2015

gle on the dash (yes…a button) and utilize four-wheel drive, low range, and the vehicle’s 4ETS traction control. As with most traction control systems, there is a short initiation period to get the counterintuitive hang of letting a wheel slip to engage the system (activation speed is about 2 mph of wheelspin). I can tell you that while I would not attempt to take this vehicle over the Rubicon Trail— limiting factors would be breakover and departure angles, and the expanse of sheet metal—it is perfectly capable of traversing 99 percent of the terrain a normal backcountry trek would present. Additional safety features include load-adaptive electronic stability control, trailer stability assist, and ABS. Other than the addition of 17-inch Method aluminum wheels, BFGoodrich KO2 tires, and Safari Snorkel raised-air intake, Sportsmobile has left the drivetrain, suspension, and engine systems alone and focused on creating a comfortable and functional living space. floor during a sharp turn or jolt from a rock. I was pleasantly surprised with how well the Mojave tracked on the highway at 75 mph. Though it won’t pace a Corvette through the twisties, it displayed only modest body roll in the corners and the steering felt direct. The speed really didn’t matter though, as what I experienced after a few hours behind the wheel was a change in latitude (mindset for you non-parrotheads). It may have been the Mojave, it may have been our lack of pending commitments, but my pulse slowed, blood pressure decreased, and I settled into mañana mode—we’ll get there today, maybe tomorrow.

Drivetrain

In factory form the Sprinter is a solid platform. The motor is Mercedes’ BlueTEC 3.0-liter V6 turbo-diesel, which generates 188 horsepower and 325 lb-ft of torque. It seemed that the computer-controlled G40 5-speed automatic transmission possessed an uncanny ability to read my mind, finding the appropriate shift points whether I was spooling up the engine to merge into freeway traffic, ascending a grade, or casually cruising the streets of Jackson, Wyoming. Accelerating from 0-60 mph was impressive for such a large vehicle, leaving little time for the contemplation of quantum physics. One thing missing from many crossover utility vans these days is a legitimate twospeed transfer case. Not so for the Sprinter. I had numerous occasions to push the tog-

Living Space

After spending 10 days in the Mojave I found the layout to be spacious and convenient. Regardless of terrain, the cherry wood cabineThe spare is held securely in place on an Aluminess Trojan carrier. The press of a button raises the reinforced fiberglass top and provides 8 feet of interior headroom. Opposite: 1. A set of 100-watt Zamp solar panels keep an AGM 4D topped off during extended stays. 2. Controllers for the Zamp solar panels, Magnum inverter, and Espar heater are conveniently mounted to starboard. 3. A Cobra CB radio is mounted in the overhead console within arm’s reach of the driver. 4. The vehicle was equipped with two Rigid Industries light bars, a 20-inch unit in the bumper and this fire-breathing 54-inch torch up top. 5. The cockpit is spacious and the tall windscreen and side windows provide an excellent view of both the road ahead and your surroundings. Controls for the audio system, Garmin GPS, and backup camera are center stage on the dash. 6. The flexible LED map light above the bed was great for late-night reading. 7. Mercedes’ BlueTEC 3.0-liter V6 turbo-diesel produces 188 horsepower and 325 lb-ft torque. Mated to the 5-speed automatic transmission, it averaged a respectable 15.6 mpg during our 2,400-mile trip. The only modification Sportsmobile makes to the engine is the addition of a Safari Snorkel raised-air intake. 8. An ExtremeAire Magnum compressor from Extreme Outback Products makes inflating tires a quick task and is another example of Sportsmobile’s commitment to self-contained travel.

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try, which is bolted to the floor with heavy-duty steel brackets and DOT seat belt hardware had almost no vibration or rattle. While this may seem like overkill, in the unfortunate occurrence of a rollover, it is better if heavy objects like cabinets stay in place. The galley includes a sink with pressurized hot and cold water (18-gallon gray water tank), a small refrigerator, cabinet The press of a space for dishes and pans, button raises and composite counter. the streamlined, Though our loaner vehireinforced cle did not have a stove, a fiberglass top to flush-mount propane unit reveal a spacious is available. I didn’t find upper berth and this to be an issue at all, as headroom that I like to cook outside and would make an NBA player smile. there was plenty of space on the countertop for my camp stove when it was pouring down rain. A microwave oven is included to fulfill certain insurance and financing requirements—whereas I would utilize this real estate otherwise. Clicking on all of the interior LED lighting was akin to walking into a well-lit football stadium. Individually controlled LED arrays are mounted above the galley, fore and aft on the roof, and there is a handy map light to the side of the lower bed. This brings us to the Penthouse suite. In typical Sportsmobile fashion, the press of a button raises the stream104

1. The interior is spacious and uncluttered, and overhead LED lights provide a warm, cozy atmosphere. When folded flat, the leather bench seat converts to a comfortable bed for two. Three rear closets offer plenty of room for clothing and personal items. The stainless steel sink has pressurized hot and cold water, and a snug-fitting lid for additional counter space when not in use. 2. With the bench seat in the upright position there is plenty of room out back for extra gear. 3. Just aft of the utility room (under the bench seat) is an Espar D5 heater, Magnum 2,000-watt inverter, and 20-gallon water tank. The recessed storage bin provided a great place for recovery gear and tools. It would also make an out-of-sight place for valuables. 4. A marine-style shower controller sits near the back doors. 5. Raising the top reveals a very comfortable, 6-foot, 4-inch bed. Windows on all sides provide great views and excellent ventilation on hot nights. 6. Below the counter is a deep storage drawer, microwave, fridge, gray water tank, and room for a porta potty. 7. Ah yes, sundowner stations on each of the rear doors.

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lined, reinforced fiberglass top to reveal a spacious upper berth and headroom that would make an NBA player smile. The walls are crafted from a vinyl-impregnated material similar to a convertible car top that is durable and easy to clean. On warm nights, opening the numerous windows provided excellent cross ventilation and a nearly 360-degree view of the world. We didn’t use the blackout privacy blinds (master suite, windshield, and side windows) in the backcountry, but they were very handy

Specifications

2014 Sprinter 2500 • GVWR/max towing: 8,550/5,000 • Engine: BlueTEC 3.0-liter V6 turbo-diesel • Output: 188 hp, 325 lb-ft torque • Intake: Safari Snorkel • Transmission: G40 5-speed automatic • Transfer case: 2-speed, low range • Tires/wheels: LT265/70R17 BFGoodrich KO2, 17-inch Method aluminum • Wheelbase: 144 inches • Overall height: 105 in • Overall length: 233.3 in • Fuel capacity: 26.4 gal • Water capacity: 20 gal • Gray water: 18 gal • Heater: Espar D5 Hydronic • Inverter: Magnum 2,000 W • Lighting: Rigid Industries, 20- and 54-inch LED bars • Compressor: ExtremeAire Magnum • Other: microwave, fridge, and marine shower

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on the one night that we stayed in the “wilderness” of a national park campground— shoehorned in mirror-to-mirror with the next guy. There is also a mosquito/fly screen that snaps around the large sliding side door for additional airflow. Moving aft there is a comfortable, twotone leather bench seat (with DOT-approved restraints) that folds down into a full-length bed. To port are three storage cabinets that can be configured individually as closet or shelving space. Below the bed, a Magnum 2,000-watt inverter supplies 110-volt power to numerous interior and exterior receptacles. To the side is an Espar Hydronic D5 diesel heat exchanger forced-air unit (that also manages hot water needs) and a 20-gallon water tank fitted with an 11.3-lpm pump. Opening the ambulance-style rear doors reveals a generous storage area suited for bags, camp chairs, and other sundries. One feature I really found useful was the trapdoor compartment mounted in the floor. We used it to store recovery gear, jumpers, and tools, but it would also provide a great place to hide valuables from sticky hands. To starboard is a marine-style shower controller for that fair weather scrub down. Outside amenities continue the trend of form and function. Over the sliding side door hangs a Fiamma 10-foot awning and LED floodlight. We experienced weather typical of summer in the Rockies (thunderstorms, hail, and hot alpine afternoons). Setting up the chairs and our outside kitchen without

getting soaked left me appreciative of the the awning. Up top, a pair of 100-watt Zamp solar panels channel energy from the sun to a Zamp controller and AGM 4D batter y. In the The Sportsmobile unfortunate case that team devotes an the Mojave ends up incredible amount of in an RV park, there time and thought to are also hookups for designing campers shore power and wa- that are comfortable, ter. The spare tire is functional, and securely mounted out personal. back on an Aluminess Trojan carrier, and the vehicle is fitted with an ExtremeAire Magnum compressor from Extreme Outback Products. Up front are two LED light bars from Rigid Industries, a 20-inch unit tucked into the bumper and a 54-inch bar above the windscreen. If I said the interior lighting was stadium-bright, the 54-inch Rigid hybrid is suitable for the intergalactic transmission of Morse code. The Sportsmobile team devotes an incredible amount of time and thought to designing campers that are comfortable, functional, and personal. I toured the Sportsmobile West facility in Fresno, California, and I can tell you that nothing is mass-produced. In fact, each unit is custom designed and built for a specific client. Within the factory walls are professional cabinet and upholstery shops, electrical and mechanics divisions, and a fabrication bay. While they do outsource products such as fiberglass tops, suspension and drivetrain components, and windows, all are made in the States—most within a few hours’ drive from their shop. Sportsmobile’s Alan Feld told me, “I like to keep things close to home and keep Californians working.” They must be doing a good job at it, as there is currently an eightmonth backlog on orders. After spending 10 days cruising the West’s backcountry in the luxurious accommodation of the Sprinter, I’m pretty sure my wife will take issue with me tossing a tent on the ground the next time there are bears in the meadow and rain in the sky—even I will admit, the Mojave was really nice. sportsmobile.com, 559-233-8267

The 10-foot Fiamma awning provides relief from midday sun, with plenty of room for outside seating and cooking.

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Expeditions 7: South America The global adventure concludes in South America and the team reflects on lessons learned. By Scott Brady

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A logistics employee cuts the container seal, creating a moment of intense anticipation. Will the trucks be safe and complete or have they been damaged or pilfered in transit? Kurt uses a pry bar to remove the wooden wheel chocks. Proper cribbing and lashing of the vehicle is critical to safe passage. After crossing the Atlantic (twice), Pacific (twice), Indian and South Atlantic oceans, we had learned best practice for transporting vehicles. Greg backs the Land Cruiser Troopy onto South American soil, making it the first 4WD to travel on all seven continents. (Opening page)

The team cleared the Andes Mountains just as winter set in. We were fortunate that the roads were open as long delays can occur due to accidents and limited road crews.

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The rain pounded against the container, echoing through the interior as I struggled against the straps that restrained the

Land Cruiser. We were already three days behind schedule and still in Buenos Aires, the ship delayed by rough seas and the equally turbulent Argentine bureaucracy. Lightning cracked and tensions rose as we waited for the final documents to arrive from the port. Our customs broker had done everything possible to expedite the process, even calling in a few favors and making a direct plea to the shipping line. Each hour we were delayed needed to be absorbed by the remaining schedule, which meant a nearly impossible timeline. By nature, Expeditions 7 was a complex machine, moving four vehicles and a team of people through borders, across countries, and over oceans. Three years of work and six continents had culminated in this moment; all eyes were fixed on the Toyota slowly idling out of the box and onto the flatbed. One evening in August of 2011, Greg Miller and I had met up in Utah to muse about travel, Land Cruisers, and planned adventures. By the next morning, we had hatched Expeditions 7 and launched the ambitious endeavor of driving the same vehicle on all seven continents. Over 40,000 miles later we were in South America, waiting in anticipation for the rear tires of the Troopy to touch down on terra firma. The team watched as Greg shifted the Toyota into reverse, the diesel idling dutifully and the nose rising skyward as the flatbed strained and chattered under the weight. Once the ramp hit the ground, now a quagmire of mud, water, and oil, the full realization of our accomplishment was coming to bear. Slowly, carefully, Greg reversed the Cruiser down the ramp until the tires finally hit the continent. In that moment the vehicle entered the record books and we had accomplished the primary objective of the expedition—we had achieved our seven-continent goal.

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Despite our moment of relief and elation, there was still exploring to do and it was nearly 7 p.m., with traffic-choked Buenos Aires maintaining her grip. The exhaustion and stress amongst the team was palpable; few words were spoken as we anticipated the sleepless night ahead. I had grown quite protective of the Troopy I drove, it having survived years of remote backcountry and international travel abuse. The Toyota had been flawless, never failing, not even a switch or piece of plastic faltering, not even a flat tire. Greg had been the generous patron of this expedition and he wanted to display all four of the vehicles in his impressive Land Cruiser Heritage Museum in Salt Lake City. I sincerely wanted to return the vehicle to his care without a scratch, a task put to its limits on the Road of Bones and Canning Stock Route. Dealing with the aggressive Argentine drivers required utmost attention, but I also knew that any material change to my driving style would likely result in an accident. I snapped out of my paternal mindset and shifted into second gear, the 4.5-liter turbo-diesel waking to the call. We were off, heading due south to Tierra del Fuego and the southernmost city on the planet —a fitting capstone to our around-the-world journey.

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Ushuaia was a personal milestone and the official end of the original E7 route. All that remained was driving north across South America, Central America, and Mexico to return the vehicles safely to Utah. Tierra del Fuego is stunning: large lakes fill deep valleys and there are massive mountains in every direction. The South America team assembles at the Ushuaia sign, commemorating our arrival at the southernmost city on the planet. The last segment would not be complete without a healthy protest; local customs workers were striking against poor wages and unsafe conditions. The road north was blocked, so we just backed up the southbound lane, surprising the protesters and police with our ingenuity. We explored further south and east out of Ushuaia, only to encounter glare ice; one of the Land Cruisers nearly slid off the edge of the road into the Drake Passage.

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Like any good South American travelers, we stopped at the Mano del Desierto to take photographs of this massive concrete art installation and to absorb the immensity of the Atacama Desert. Just a few miles outside of San Pedro de Atacama we encountered this intricate geologic feature, exhibiting both intense erosion and sedimentary folds. The cowboys entered the frame right on queue. We explored the high altiplano that comprises the Andean and Bolivian Plateaus; several of the roads extended well beyond the horizon.

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Vultures served as a reminder of how desolate and dangerous this region can be, with some areas receiving negligible rainfall. As we dropped toward the coast in Peru, clouds settled into the valley below, acting as a blanket across the desert.

Special Thanks

On behalf of Overland Journal, I would like to extend my most sincere gratitude to Greg Miller for his investment in this adventure. Expeditions 7 would have been impossible without his financial support, endurance (and skill as a driver), and his steadfast dedication to the completion of the journey. His fortitude and generosity throughout the trip is a testament to his character and love for travel. Overland Journal Winter 2015

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EXPEDITION VEHICLES

1 2

2013 VDJ76 LAND CRUISER

2012 VDJ78 LAND CRUISER, AKA FERNWEH (L)

2012 VDJ78 LAND CRUISER, AKA MATESHIP (R)

4 5

116 2013 VDJ79 LAND CRUISER, AKA SHERPA II

1984 HZJ79/60 PICKUP (CONVERSION), AKA SHERPA I

E7 STASTICS

35 54

countries

miles

58,000

OVER 140,000 2013 HILUX AT44 BY ARCTIC TRUCKS

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combined vehicle miles

total participants

(drivers, cinematographers, family members, and logistics crew)

SEVEN CONTINENTS

LESSONS LEARNED

Going on E7 appealed to me as a challenge, one of the biggest I’d undertaken in my life. It was an opportunity for me to organize my talents and resources to produce something special and meaningful. I wanted to enrich the lives of my family and those involved with the project in extraordinary ways. I hoped to inspire others to do big things.

GREG MILLER LEAD ADVENTURER, EXPEDITION UNDERWRITER, LAND CRUISER ENTHUSIAST

As the expedition unfolded, it took on a personality of its own. It had many good days and a few bad ones. It challenged me in many ways and introduced me to interesting people, several of whom I have developed treasured friendships with. The journey taught me lessons that will make me a better husband, father, and businessman. Perhaps my favorite takeaway from the expedition is not the adventure or the vast and varied beauty we experienced, but that in all the interactions among the 50 or so people that played a role in E7, I never heard a cross word spoken. Everyone seemed to understand that they were part of something special and unique and they did all they could to contribute to its success. My life has been blessed in many ways through my experience with Expeditions 7.

FAVORITE KIT

Nemo Cosmo air mattress SureFire Minimus headlamp Triple Aught Design Stealth hoodie jacket

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VEHICLE CHOICE

There wasn’t a day behind the wheel of the VDJ78 Land Cruiser that I didn’t relish the experience of driving it. Both of the 78s were perfectly outfitted for E7—that is they had everything we needed and nothing we didn’t. Without question, my favorite feature was the 1VDT 4.5-liter turbo diesel engine mated to the 5-speed H55F transmission. It produced a soothing harmonic at 2,900 rpm that resonated through my frame and put a smile on my face.

“When it comes to dealing with other cultures, very little separates us...They all want food, comfort, friendship, and a bit of fun. The lessons you learn interacting with other cultures and perhaps reaching just a bit beyond your normal comfort zone are lessons you can’t learn in school.”

One of the primary reasons Scott and I chose Land Cruisers (aside from my lifelong love affair with them) is their legendary reputation for quality, dependability, and reliability. They lived up to that reputation. In over 56,000 miles of travel we experienced just one minor OEM failure (the rear diff lock switch). By the time the expedition was over, Fernweh was a familiar friend. Fernweh is the German name I gave to my 78; it describes the feeling one gets when standing on a dock in the harbor, watching the ships come and go, longing to be on one of them. It’s sad to know that it will never experience another adventure, due partly to the importation conditions imposed by the EPA, but mostly because it is the only four-wheeled vehicle to drive on all seven continents and I don’t want to risk damage or theft. However, I will continue to enjoy that friendship whenever I see Fernweh safely at rest in the Land Cruiser Heritage Museum. landcruisermuseum.com

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LESSONS LEARNED

SCOTT BRADY EXPEDITION LEADER, PHOTOGRAPHER

While minimalism has become a mantra of mine since my first trip with an adventure motorcycle, this truth became even more evident during Expeditions 7. We started with the correct vehicles, which required only limited modification for global travel. The Toyotas were lifted 50 mm, with only one size taller tire. We slept inside the vehicle on platforms and despite the size of the group we maintained an efficiency that only comes from tidy systems. Despite all of this, I believe we could have been even more efficient and used less equipment. Throughout the journey I paired my personal kit down by at least 50 percent and since ending the adventure I have managed to reduce my gear lists even further. Too much stuff is a distraction and only limits our engagement with the adventure. I was overwhelmed by the generosity and enthusiasm of the people we encountered during the journey. The world was universally a warm and inviting place, offering an outpouring of help. From Evgeny Shatalov in Chelyabinsk, Russia, who spent an entire day helping me sort Russian translations of official documents, to Paul Marsh and the Stuhler family from Eezi-Awn in Africa who quite literally saved our Antarctica bid, we were truly humbled by the gracious support we received along the way. While it is easy to credit Greg and I for driving on all seven continents, that accomplishment would have been impossible without the support of over 50 people along the way. Throughout the expedition we received tireless assistance from dozens of individuals that served as drivers, mechanics, shipping/customs gurus, and logistics managers. At one time or another, every team member of Overland Journal was involved with the effort, and Greg engaged dozens of staff members from the Larry H. Miller Group. Most importantly, I am forever grateful for the support of my business partner, wife, and high school sweetheart, Stephanie Brady, for her unwavering commitment to this endeavor.

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CAMERA KIT

Canon 5D Mark III (this body was used on all seven continents and for 14,000 actuations) Canon 1DX Canon 16-35mm F/2.8L Canon 70-200mm F/2.8L Canon 85mm F/1.2L Canon 28-300mm F/3.5-5.6L

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FAVORITE KIT Old Man Emu suspension MAXTRAX Red Oxx kitchen bag Nemo Cosmo sleeping pad with Pillowtop AT Overland drawer system and sleeping platform National Luna Weekender 50L Twin iPhone with international data plan for active research and navigation SPOT Device for tracking and communication with family Snow Peak GigaPower torch Triple Aught Design Stealth hoodie jacket

LESSONS LEARNED

Great leaders do great things. Greg and Scott are both amazing adventurers. Calm, cool, collected, prepared to make tough calls, and willing to task team members where they are best suited. I learned a great deal from both of these gentleman and I look forward to sharing future adventures with each of them.

KURT WILLIAMS LEAD DRIVER, OWNER OF CRUISER OUTFITTERS

Jump at opportunities when they are presented, big or small—you never know what they will lead to. I consider myself extremely fortunate to have been invited by Greg and Scott to participate in this venture and I would do it again if a similar opportunity presented itself. The time spent with Expeditions 7 represented months away from family and work and many have questioned if it was worth it. My answer is absolutely.

FAVORITE KIT Travel journal for recounting daily adventures Exped Synmat 7 sleeping pad iPod for music and audio books Old Man Emu suspension Bosston Canopy for Sherpa II Extended range fuel tank MAXTRAX

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By Chris Cordes Photography by Chris Cordes and Ashlie Pollard

Photo by Chris Ramm

OVERLAND ROUTES

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The Mojave Road

The Mojave Road is one of the best known and most diverse overland routes in the United States. Like most western tracks, it was established by Native Americans and used as a footpath for travel long before Europeans arrived to map it. In 1776 the first documented crossing was completed by Francisco Garcés, a missionary on Juan Bautista de Anza’s expedition to California. Over the coming centuries the road would transform into a supply route, making way for wagons, equipment, and rail lines heading to California. Despite its similar history to other desert crossings, the Mojave Road is unique. Most classic tracks were improved over the years or turned to pavement; the Mojave became lost in time when more efficient routes for railroads were discovered. Even today, very little maintenance or development has occurred, allowing drivers to not only enjoy the untouched desert, but do so on what is essentially the same road used over 150 years ago.

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GENERAL INFORMATION

The original route begins 10 miles south of Bullhead City on the Colorado River and spans 140 miles through the heart of the Mojave Desert to Camp Cady. Though largely unmaintained, the terrain is mild enough to be crossed by “soft-roaders” with an experienced driver. Topography of the area is brilliantly varied and includes mountain passes, desert valleys, large lakes, and even volcanic cones. The trail begins in the Lake Mead National Recreation Area, but the majority of the traditional road is encompassed by the Mojave National Preserve in California. Despite the dry nature of the region, flora can be stunning with the right seasonal conditions. Desert paintbrush, creosote bush, cholla, yucca, and prickly pear cacti thrive in the high desert, often blooming with vibrant pinks and yellows. The most notable plant along the route is the Joshua tree, which looks similar to the dreamed-up creations of Dr. Seuss. Their foliage resemble pom-poms rather than treetops, and the trunks—which turn and bend sporadically—are covered in a fur-like coating. Fauna includes the typical high-desert species, composed mostly of coyotes, rattlesnakes, bats, hawks, tortoises, wrens, and small mammals such as rats and mice. The particularly observant traveler may spot desert bighorn sheep. The Mojave Road has become popular in recent years thanks to its scenic views, moderate trail requirements, and proximity to three major population centers. In fact, due to the large groups flocking in from throughout the Southwest, it has become old hat for many overlanders, which is why we are starting a little revival. We’ve taken the classic route and thrown in some of our favorite spots along the way. From swimming to sand dunes, there is something for everyone along the Mojave Road.

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We opted to begin our modified route upriver, on the shores of the beautiful Lake Mohave. The roads are broad and smooth leading into this section, with long sand washes winding down to the water. The track shows just one cove, but many of them are secluded and provide a private beach any explorer will enjoy. The river waters run clear and cold year-round, so there is plenty of wandering to do via canoe or kayak on hot desert days. During our regrettably short stay, fish could be heard jumping every few minutes, so be sure to bring a rod and reel. Our evening ended with the sound of lapping waves on the shore and the touch of a cool lake breeze. If you’re able to tear yourself away from this picturesque beach, trek toward the Newberry Mountains, where tall canyon walls and craggy peaks loom overhead. The old pavement exit from this range can look fast and smooth but be warned, years of neglect have left jagged edges, crumbling shoulders, and tire-shredding potholes throughout. After running this gauntlet with your tires hopefully intact, there will be two routes leading to Fort Piute. We took the road less traveled, a slow and arduous track that desert shrubs and sand are beginning to reclaim. The alternate road follows the power line and consequently cuts a hefty amount of time off this section. The fort was once used to defend a vital water source along the road from Indian attacks. Its entry road is rocky, but the ruins at the top and the optional hike down to the creek make it well worth the drive. After admiring the fort, it was time to climb the Piute Range, an entertaining scramble with several off camber and cross axle situOverland Journal Winter 2015

ations. There won’t be any need to engage lockers, but the tipping sensation on cliff edges has been known to turn knuckles white a few times before reaching Lanfair Valley. At this point the first in a series of eclectic objects will begin to appear. These landmarks have become a staple for the road and include sites like the Old Bus, the Penny Can Tree, the Frog Monument, the Mailbox, and of course the Travelers’ Monument. Each provides its own flare and presents a fun opportunity for photography. While the majority of the Mojave Road is of easy to moderate difficulty, the hill into Watson Wash can be the exception. Most drivers will really enjoy the obstacle, however, an ill-chosen line or the wrong throttle inputs could easily spell disaster. A spotter is recommended for this portion of the trail. Government Holes is just beyond the hill and is a perfect spot to take a lunch break. The charming windmill pumps water from the parched desert floor into a large (and aging) tank, which has leaked enough to form a lush oasis around the well. To top it all off a tree stands proudly in the center, as if there for no reason but to shade weary travelers. At the risk of being labeled overland heretics, our group opted to deviate from a perfectly good dirt road onto pavement to share a favorite stop, Kelso Depot. Despite the disappointment that they no longer serve burgers and milkshakes, this little gem is a must-see spot along the route. Thick grass, towering palm trees, a perfectly restored building, and a beautiful overland route sign are sure to steal your heart. If nothing else, the running water and bathrooms should win points with the family, and the coloring books can distract the kids. The Mojave Desert has become known for many things, but rarely for its ominous volcanic cones or the corresponding lava flows that reach out like stony tentacles into the sands below. Hike up the cones, crawl down the lava tubes, or find the hidden mine where photo opportunities abound. Then it is off to Soda Lake, a 15-mile-long, 6-mile-wide dry lake, as flat as pavement and covered in a thick silt bottom; it’s the perfect birthplace for cataclysmic dust storms. If there is one place in the Mojave to be defined as epic above all others, it’s here. Be sure to stay to the trail and watch the speed in the center of the lake. Abrupt drops and rises in the lake bottom have been known to send less cautious vehicles airborne, returning to the earth in more pieces than they left. Another staff favorite added into this route is the abandoned rail station. This path can be tight but it is passable, even while hauling a large trailer. Bumping over the wooden rail ties, you’ll see impressive stone walls, foundations of ruins, and to the excitement of many a passenger, a sheer drop just inches off the side of the vehicle. The journey comes to an end with long sand washes and the road’s two river crossings. The firm bottoms and predictable depth make these simple to navigate, but be sure all drivers are familiar with proper fording techniques. On even the easiest crossing, too much speed or improper entry can quickly result in a hydrolocked motor.

ACCESS

West entrance From Barstow, California, merge onto I-15 N and continue for 23 miles. Take exit 206 for Yermo Rd. and follow for 3 miles. Turn right onto Alvord Mountain Rd. and you will reach the Mojave Road.

WAYPOINT

35°21’54.5”N, 114°40’29.0”W 35°18’51.2”N, 114°50’56.1”W

35°05’27.0”N, 115°00’05.7”W 35°09’18.6”N, 115°20’05.3”W

35°00’43.8”N, 115°39’10.8”W 35°11’08.2”N, 115°41’34.9”W

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35°09’25.8”N, 116°02’08.6”W 35°07’08.9”N, 116°07’05.0”W

35°02’55.9”N, 116°18’05.4”W 35°01’52.6”N, 116°22’01.4”W

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trance fee: $10 USD/vehicle, $5 USD/bicycle (7-day pass), or $30 USD all access (1-year). This may be purchased at a park entrance or by mail. Fire permits are required in California for any open fire, including campfires, stoves, and barbeque grills. These can be acquired online (preventwildfireca.org/Campfire-Permit/). A fishing license is required for Lake Mohave and is available at most local bait shops and marinas.

SUGGESTED CAMPSITES

Nellis Cove (LMNRA) Accommodates 2-4 vehicles Beach camp, fishing, swimming, secluded 35°24’14.6”N, 114°39’34.4”W

35°09’54.9”N, 115°28’14.9”W East entrance From Searchlight, Nevada, head East on Cottonwood Cove Rd. for 6.7 miles until you reach the fee station for Lake Mohave. Pay your fee and continue 0.1 miles, then turn right on Mead Davis Powerline Rd., where your route begins.

LOGISTICS

Distance off-pavement 200 miles Suggested time 2-4 days Longest distance without fuel 214 miles

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Searchlight, Nevada 35°27’38.0”N, 114°55’06.0”W Baker, California 35°16’08.9”N, 116°04’09.9”W Yermo, California 34°55’09.9”N, 116°46’09.2”W

DIFFICULTY

Roman Mine Camp Accommodates large groups Scenic views, old mines 35°17’42.4”N, 114°44’14.6”W Fort Piute (MNP) Accommodates 4-6 vehicles Historic ruins, hiking, creek access, scenic views 35°06’53.5”N, 114°59’03.3”W Mojave Bus Camp (MNP) Accommodates 3-5 vehicles Classic stop, cool photo opportunities 35°07’10.4”N, 115°06’54.5”W Lone Tree (MNP) Accommodates 3-5 vehicles Shade, scenic views, sheltered from wind 35°09’17.6”N, 115°20’15.0”W Mojave Camp (MNP) Accommodates large groups Fire rings, rock climbing, shelter from wind 35°10’55.5”N, 115°36’49.9”W

The Mojave Road is easy for a stock 4WD with only a few sections of moderate obstacles. We rate the entire route as moderate due to the remote nature without support and because of the hill at Watson Wash, which can erode to various degrees of difficulty.

Lake Bed Lookout Accommodates 4-6 vehicles Scenic view of Soda Lake, sand dunes, photography hot spot 35°07’08.9”N, 116°07’05.0”W

WHEN TO GO

The Station Accommodates 2-3 vehicles Ruins, sheltered from wind 35°02’55.9”N, 116°18’05.4”W

The Mojave National Preserve is open year-round, however summer heat can be extreme and make even the shortest trip unpleasant. Winter can be equally harsh with temperatures dropping to 20°F in valleys, and below 0°F in the mountains. We recommend visiting in spring or fall when the temperatures are moderate. Be aware of spring monsoons which can flood washes and make the lake bed impassable. Park rangers should be contacted before travel for current conditions.

PERMITS AND FEES

No permits are currently required for crossing the Mojave National Preserve (MNP). Lake Mead National Recreation Area (LMNRA) requires an enOverland Journal Winter 2015

CONTACTS

Mojave National Preserve Visitor Information nps.gov/moja/, 760-252-6100 Lake Mead National Recreation Area Visitor Information nps.gov/lake/, 702-293-8990 Laughlin Police Department 702-298-2223 Western Arizona Regional MC (Bullhead City) 928-763-2273 Barstow Police Department 760-256-2211 Barstow Community Hospital 760-256-1761

RESOURCES

Basic maps and brochures can be found for free at nps.gov/moja/ planyourvisit/maps.htm. Our detailed GPS track with points of interest is available through the Hema Explorer cloud (cloud.hemaexplorer.com.au). We also recommend bringing the Mojave Road Guide by Dennis Casebier (ISBN: 978-0914224372). It contains the track for the original route and a complete history of the area.

Overland Route descriptions are intended to be an overview of the trail rather than turn-by-turn instructions. We suggest you download the Hema Explorer app and Cloud GPS track, as well as source detailed paper maps as an analog backup. With any remote travel, conditions can change dramatically. This route may be impassable in winter, and summer rains can subject highdesert dry washes to flash flooding.

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OVERLAND CONSERVATION

Lavanya Sunkara

Grassroot Soccer

Photo courtesy Grassroot Soccer

Soccer is a passion shared among all Africans, particularly children. In villages and cities throughout the continent, gleeful youth can be seen playing the sport anywhere a flat surface and a few improvised goals can be found. In 2002, a group of adventurers and doctors started the non-profit organization Grassroot Soccer (GRS), promoting athletics as an effective means to educate local adolescents about the dangers of HIV/AIDS. Pediatrician Tommy Clark, GRS’s founder and CEO, conceived the idea after playing soccer professionally in Zimbabwe. He partnered with Ethan Zohn, winner of Survivor Africa, and professional soccer players Methembe Ndlovu and Kirk Friedrich. Leveraging their celebrity status and regional contacts, the foursome began implementing awareness programs in Zimbabwe. Recent data indicates that 24.7 million people in Sub-Saharan Africa are living with HIV; an estimated 210,000 of those infected are children. Friedrich, GRS’s Executive Director said, “Through a series of games, we connect with young people and discuss their relationships, sexuality, and health topics.” One exercise involves dribbling a ball through cones in a relay race; each cone represents a risk, such as drug and alcohol abuse and unprotected sex. Friedrich continued, “If they hit a cone, they do push-ups. They realize that mistakes affect you, your team, and the people around you.”

Photos by Alice Keeney

GRS recruits local coaches between the ages of 18 and 25 for twoyear terms, during which they earn a small stipend and learn more advanced coaching and teaching skills. In its first year, GRS had programs in 10 schools, each with male and female coaches leading activities that serve as metaphors. In a game designed to teach the risks of having multiple sexual partners, students are asked to simultaneously kick two balls into a goal—a task that is much more difficult than focusing on one ball and is likely to result in failure.

A sports program in Africa educates youth about the risks of HIV/AIDS.

In 2010, GRS launched the Skillz Street Program in South Africa in response to research showing that HIV is concentrated among young women. The program engages adolescent girls through informal soccer leagues, educates them about healthy life choices, and encourages them to disclose cases of abuse. In a society where girls are often not allowed to compete in sports, GRS staff assure parents that the program is safe. Mentors walk the girls to and from the field to ensure their security. Kholiswa Funani, a coach in Cape Town said, “I like what I’m doing because the kids feel they cannot talk with their parents about HIV, but when they are with us, it is easy for them to talk.” The program isn’t just beneficial to the students. Thanks to being a coach, Funani learned so much from the process of coaching that she decided to become a teacher.

Clockwise from top: Attentive children listen to a Grassroot Soccer coach in Bulawayo, Zimbabwe. Children participate in relay races about HIV/AIDS risks. Taking a break from an “HIV Attacks” lesson.

Last year, 100,000 kids in 18 countries graduated from GRS programs. In recent years, the non-profit has expanded to the Dominican Republic and Washington, D.C. GRS is successfully using the power of soccer to educate and inspire communities to stop the spread of HIV. To get involved, visit grassrootsoccer.org. Overland Journal Winter 2015

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OVERLAND MEDICINE

Dr. Jon S. Solberg MD, FAWM

Hypothermia Diagnosing and treating hypothermia can be as simple as situational awareness and carrying a few pieces of inexpensive, indispensable gear.

ith adventurers pushing the extremes of geographical and seasonal exploration, a thorough understanding of cold weather illness is paramount. For a review of frostbite, reference Overland Medicine in the Winter 2012 issue. For an overview of hypothermia, and to discover why polar explorer Captain Robert Falcon Scott’s choice in skivvies may have led to his death, read on!

Physiology

Hypothermia is a medical condition characterized by a core body temperature of less than 95°F (35°C). A patient’s degree of hypothermia is difficult to define, and the disorder should be understood as a progression of symptoms over a range of temperatures.

Captain Robert Falcon Scottʼs ill-fated British expedition to the South Pole, 1911.

Mild hypothermia’s 93-97°F (34-36°C) symptoms can easily be mistaken for other illnesses: dysarthria (slurred speech) mimics alcohol intoxication and stroke, nausea and vomiting mimic carbon monoxide poisoning and gastroenteritis, and ataxia (difficulty with balance) mimics high altitude cerebral edema. Irritability may be attributed to lack of personal constitution. Surface blood vessels constrict to conserve heat, and blood is forced back to the body’s core. The kidneys respond by producing more urine, known as cold-induced diuresis, a phenomenon well known to scuba divers.

Hypothermic victims initially develop a shivering reflex that generates heat two to five times faster than normal and burns up to 1000 Calories per hour until short-term fuel supplies are exhausted. Moderate hypothermia, 86-92°F (30-33°C), is characterized by mental status changes. Paradoxical undressing may occur and unmonitored victims may erroneously strip off insulating layers. The shivering reflex is extinguished, which may lead rescuers to believe that a victim is not hypothermic. Urine production stops, breathing becomes shallow, and the heart struggles to pump, leading to hypotension (low blood pressure) and bradycardia (slow pulse rate). Severe hypothermia, less than 86°F (30°C), leads to coma and pulmonary edema (buildup of fluid in the lungs). The cold heart becomes irritable and is prone to developing rhythm disturbances that can render it completely unable to function.

Treatment

Passive rewarming is the first step for all types of hypothermia and it augments the body’s own thermoregulatory response. Remove cold, damp clothing and place the victim on an insulated sleeping pad to minimize conduction and evaporation. Convection and respiratory heat losses can be minimized by seeking shelter from the wind in a tent, bivy sack, or nearby vehicle. Application of approOverland Journal Winter 2015

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priate clothing, blankets, and sleeping bags combats radiation heat loss. Because of cold-induced diuresis, even minimally hypothermic patients are dehydrated, and a victim should be encouraged to consume warm liquids until urination ensues. Warm soup provides calories, heat, and fluid, and avoids the diuretic effect and blunted shivering that are associated with caffeine and/or alcohol. Do not attempt rehydration with fluids of less-than-ambient temperature, as the risks of worsening the hypothermia outweigh the benefits of fluid resuscitation. Active rewarming is necessary for more severely hypothermic patients and provides direct transfer of heat utilizing all available means: hot water bottles, warmed blankets, and air-activated charcoal heat packs at the groin and axilla (armpits), where large blood vessels carry heat diTIP: rectly to the core. Hypothermic skin is less Hypothermic skin able to discern surface temperature, so be is less able to extra careful when placing hot items next discern surface to a victim’s body; burns have been known temperature, so to occur. be extra careful Despite the hypothermic heart being when placing hot extremely irritable, The American Heart items next to a Association recommends CPR be given victim’s body. to all pulseless patients. Experts endorse starting CPR after carefully verifying the complete absence of a pulse. Remember the frequently taught anecdote, “no one’s dead until they’re warm and dead,” and continue efforts at resuscitation until the victim can be adequately rewarmed. Consider one of several rescue stories: Anna Bågenholm, a Swedish physician, experienced an almost complete recovery after a 1999 skiing accident left her submerged in freezing water for 80 minutes. She received CPR for over one hour and at the hospital had a core temperature of 55°F (13°C), one of the coldest ever recorded.

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Growing up in rural North Dakota, we traveled regularly despite severe winter weather advisories. I remember my dad driving in a blizzard, using his left arm to remove snow from the windscreen when the wipers were inadequate. He was always prepared and drove a wellmaintained vehicle, which was packed with survival gear: sleeping bags, a coffee-can-sized candle which he swore would produce enough heat for a small motorhome, granola bars, water bottles, a snow shovel, and a tow strap. He always called ahead to let my grandparents know our plans, and we could count on Grandpa to come looking if we were late.

Gear

Space blankets come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and a recent military study concluded that the Blizzard emergency survival blanket (thetacticalmedic.com, $35) was a reasonable compromise between cheap, flimsy units and the more superior (and costly) Gore-Tex versions. I have personal experience with Blizzard brand blankets, gained during deployment to Afghanistan with the U.S. Army. They are effective, and a space-saving addition to a vehicle’s first aid kit, no matter the season or forecast. When monitoring a victim’s temperature, mercury thermometers are prone to breakage and have a dismal range of accuracy. Instead, get a new and improved digital one (Veridian V Temp 10-second hypothermia digital thermometer, $8). Of note, tympanic (ear scanner) gauges and forehead strips are for rookies and, like dashboard inclinometers, Overland Journal Winter 2015

should be left at home. “I can tell when a patient is cold,” you say? I diagnose and treat patients with an altered mental status every single day and I can assure you that differentiating mild hypothermia from altitude sickness, carbon monoxide poisoning, intoxication, or stroke is not easy, except when the thermometer gives you the answer. Face the same situation in the wilderness and you too will be wishing for that tool. And by the way, the only accurate temperature is a rectal temperature, obtained by sticking a well-lubricated probe an inch or two into the rectum. At $8 apiece, you may want to bring two.

Clothing

Cold weather clothing is beyond the scope of this article, but an interesting historical perspective is the work of George Havenith, PhD, Professor of Environmental Physiology and Ergonomics at Loughborough University. He has studied the clothing worn by Captain Robert Scott’s and Roald Amundsen’s competing teams during their 1911 race to the South Pole. While all teams wore layered clothing (still the gold standard), Scott’s team wore layers of coarse fabric-like wool, and Amundsen’s team wore layers of slippery fur. The difference in friction, Havenith concludes, led to the Amundsen team’s 20 percent smaller energy requirement—an interesting factoid considering Amundsen’s team was successful and all of Scott’s pole team perished. Also recently examined for historical and scientific purposes was the clothing worn by George Mallory, who disappeared on Mount Everest in 1924. After his body was finally recovered in May 1999, his clothing was sampled, studied, and reproduced in the Mallory Replica Project. Their research determined that Mallory was sufficiently wellinsulated to operate effectively in the mountains in good weather, while sporting “a hand-knitted jumper, two other hand-knitted fragments, three pairs of socks, a blue and white shirt, a vest that is in a fibre blend with silk, and his puttees, which might be cashmere rather than sheep wool.” Nothing says c-o-z-y like cashmere puttees! While cold weather shouldn’t deter anyone from heading outside for good adventure, it is best to check the forecast and pack for the worst-case scenario. No matter where your adventures take you, inspect your first aid and survival gear and ensure it contains equipment to diagnose and treat hypothermia: a quality digital thermometer plus batteries, and a Blizzard blanket. These items are worth far more than their small expense and the weight/space they may add to your kit. They will convey the presence of a true professional if you’re called upon to render aid. Doctor’s orders!

RESOURCES

A myriad of winter weather health information: cdc.gov, search for “hypothermia” How to drive in the snow: edmunds.com/how-to/ how-to-drive-in-the-snow.html Tips for winter camping: rei.com/learn/expert-advice/ winter-camping.html

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OVERLAND CHEF

Åsa Björklund

Grilled Scandinavian Salmon Overland Journal’s resident Swede shares her favorite fireside delicacy.

SCANDINAVIAN SALMON Serves: 4 | Cook time: 20 minutes Equipment: Mixing bowl and aluminum foil 2 pounds salmon fillets (fresh or defrosted) 1 bunch of dill, finely chopped 1 tsp sea salt (more can be added to taste) 2 fresh lemons Sauce: 1 cup mayonnaise 2 tsp Dijon mustard Pepper

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candinavia’s culinary reputation is bland—and well deserved. The region’s most famous dish is herring, fermented to the point of an unbearable odor and taste, served with shots of Absolut vodka to dull the flavor and the memory. I will spare you that recipe. Despite dishes that double as biological warfare, there are a few gems in the Swedish kitchen, such as this salmon dish. Easy to prepare, it can be cooked on a barbecue grill or above a fire. The aluminum foil helps the fish retain moisture, intensifies flavor, and makes it easy to store in the fridge.

MENU APPETIZER: Salad of your preference MAIN: Scandinavian-style salmon with fresh lemon wedges

SIDES: Peas and mashed potatoes, or boiled dill-sprinkled potatoes BEVERAGE: Dry white or rosé wine, or lager beer

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Prepare the fire or grill and allow the cooking area to heat fully. Chop the dill. In a bowl, mix the mayonnaise, mustard, and pepper. If there’s still skin on the salmon, place that side down on double layers of heavy-duty aluminum foil (large enough to wrap around). If the piece is skinless, spray some oil on the sheets to prevent sticking. If you choose to cut the salmon into individual-sized pieces, reduce the cooking time by five minutes. Sprinkle sea salt on the salmon. Pat the chopped dill evenly onto the fish. Cover with the mayonnaise/mustard sauce (the sauce should cover the dill, not the other way around). Fold the foil sides together on the top to create a seal and place the packet in the fire or on the grill in an area of indirect heat (400°F for around 20 minutes). Close the lid if using a barbecue grill. Start checking for doneness after 10 minutes by making a small cut in the middle of the fillet (usually it needs 10 minutes per inch of thickness) or inserting a thermometer for an internal temperature of 130-140°F. Overcooking fish is a crime, so stay the course and pull the package off the heat once the salmon flakes with a fork.

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When we hit dirt roads and speeds are low, she can come up front and help navigate. She loves to read maps and “show” me where to go. The sagebrush and willows along the Hams Fork were set aglow by the warm, setting sun. Driving with my daughter through a picture-perfect landscape was an unforgettable moment. We eventually found the idyllic campsite near the Driving with river and to make everything more perfect, a my daughter moose ambled by while I prepared dinner. through a The next morning, I woke early to find picture-perfect Lilly still snuggled in her bag. The sun’s rays landscape was were striking the far hillside and a few deer an unforgettable were savoring their breakfast nearby. The moment. grounds in my French press eagerly awaited boiling water. Minutes later I observed a small foot hanging down from the door of the roof top tent, rotating in circles. The little appendage snaked in and out of the tent, over and over, reminding me of a young pup testing the river water. When I asked Lilly what she was up to, she replied, “Just checking to see how warm it is outside. Warm enough for shorts?” “Ahhh...Lilly, I don’t think so. I see my breath in the air. It’s cold.” What I notice most on solo trips with my daughter are the little things. Her sayings, her behaviors—would I see them if my wife were around? Maybe. But being the sole parent brings its own special discoveries and rewards. Recollecting how Lilly checked the air temperature that day is a memory I cherish. The road descended the mountainside to some truly remote and gorgeous backcountry. Our travels led us to Lake Alice, the largest lake in the Bridger-Teton Forest. A two-mile hike meandered through the landslide debris that created the lake thousands of years ago; this was our goal today. The outlet stream now flows roughly a mile underneath the rubble and surfaces at the start of the hike. Lilly talked, rambling on about bears, friends, flowers, and fishing. I listened, as I was her sounding board for the moment. This is one of the greatest pleasures of soloing on a trip with your kid. You’ll never experience a more honest conversation with your child than you will while hiking alone in the outdoors. I can always count on one request for every hike: “Dad, can you carry me?” She uttered the words 45 minutes into this one. I delayed being a pack mule by distracting her and talking about anything that popped out of her mouth. Finally, I decided to hoist her onto my shoulders, and we climbed to the shores of Lake Alice. Lilly and I threw the fly in the lake, hoping for a bite. No nibbles, but we didn’t care. We decided to skip rocks and simply enjoy each other’s company. Later, the evening was in full glory. The sun illuminated the aspen forest, making it a magical sight. Lilly’s navigation led us to the bank of Hobble Creek. Her eyes lit up as the Land Cruiser forged the creek, a little deeper than I expected. A beautiful meadow with thigh-high green grass and a fire pit was our base camp that night. “Dad, look! Look at the deer!” Lilly noticed the deer foraging behind camp, and approached cautiously for a better view, taking one careful step forward at a time in an effort not to spook them. Her disbelief was evident when she was able to advance within 50 feet of them before they turned and dashed into the willows. After dinner, we sat around the fire and chitchatted. “Why were the deer in the meadow? Where do they go at night? How fast do you think they are?” Her mind was full of questions, and I tried my best to Overland Journal Winter 2015

produce answers. The fire provided the warmth, nature provided the beauty, and we provided the conversation. The following morning we closed the roof top tent and drove west toward the Salt River. Our fishing luck during the trip had been dismal and Lilly’s interest had waned, but luck was on our side. As soon as I dropped the fly in the water, it was hit hard. Game on! Lilly was instantly filled with excitement for fishing. “Daddy, where are thooose fish?” Lilly and I stalked every bend in the Salt and landed a few more. Nothing large, but her enthusiasm continued on the upswing. It was hard to head home on such an exceptional evening, but all good things must come to an end. We glanced at each other as we started back to the Land Cruiser, and after a slight pause, turned and strolled to the river for just a few more casts.

TIPS FOR TRAVELING WITH KIDS PLANNING AND PACKING Planning and packing is most of the battle.

The actual trip is usually much easier. Start with a short, close-to-home destination. You’re on “kid time” after all. Have a plan, but allow for deviation and follow your child’s interest. The goal is to have fun and to take many repeat trips in the future.

COMMUNICATION Communicate with your significant other or spouse when you can. If your partner feels that “baby” is safe, the tension recedes. Anticipate potential coverage problems and let them know your status.

BE SAFE At times, we travel to remote

areas. Make note of ranches, cabins, and camps you pass in the backcountry in case the need arises to alert others to your location. Prepare to find and ask for help. Carry an ACR emergency beacon in case of emergency.

FOLLOW A ROUTINE In the evening, it’s good to follow a routine.

Plan ahead for the dinner menu, tomorrow’s activities, and bedtime. With the evening outlined, you won’t go crazy improvising and can set in motion plans for another great day.

ENTERTAINMENT For entertainment, bring an iPad or DVD player, books, coloring materials and pencils, blank paper, and card games. These items get the job done and fit in one packable container so your child can easily access it in the vehicle or in camp.

SLOW DOWN Remember to slow down. Keep your child’s physical

abilities and limitations in mind. Set up small, reasonable expectations until you get a few trips under your belt. The last thing you want is to create a negative connection to overlanding.

FOOD For food, pack things with your child in mind. The most important consideration is to keep it simple while keeping your kids energized so they can enjoy your backcountry activities.

WAIT FOR IT At home, the stories and memories of the trip will emerge over the course of the next few days and weeks, usually when you least expect it. You’ll find your efforts have been triumphant; more importantly, that your child will want to do it again.

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TAIL LAMP

Michael Holland

My Travels with Lilly “

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ommy is not going?” asked a stunned Lilly. That was the crux of our conversation three years ago. Lilly didn’t have much trust in me for a solo-overlanding trip to Dinosaur National Monument...with no mom. Many dirt roads later we have completed numerous daddy-daughter trips; it is an experience that I recommend all fathers attempt. During that time, I have asked fellow fathers to join us. Their hesitancy indicates that they consider it an overwhelming activity and simply too daunting. With a reassuring smile, I try to inform them that overlanding with your child is a remarkable, unique, and rewarding adventure. When my wife Louise told me she was working for the next few days, I knew I could come clean, or at least try to circumnavigate the iceberg that I was about to hit. My wife knew that I was asking questions and probing for answers with an agenda in mind. In this case, it was an escape without her. “I’m packing the Cruiser. Lilly and I plan on taking off for a few days. You won’t even know we’re gone.” Louise yearned to go, but she understood the true intent of my plan—a mommy-free trip. Once loaded up, we traveled north from our home in Park City, Utah, following the Bear River drainage toward Kemmerer, Wyoming. The usually burnt grasses of Wyoming are a vibrant green in late June, displaying the work of spring. We pulled into Fossil Butte National Monument and our legs stretched out from the long drive as we walked into the jam-packed visitor’s center. Okay, not really crowded, since there was only one other visitor. Overland Journal Winter 2015

A Father Takes His Daughter Into the Wild

The enormous fossils found at the center immediately captivated Lilly’s attention. A few eons ago this area was part of a giant lake that covered Utah, Wyoming, and Colorado. Now, it is just another Wyoming sagebrush-clogged plain. The fossils of this area showcase many different fish and plant species. Lilly was in awe of the 7-foot “alligator” from epochs past. The fossils tell the story of a much more verdant time, a land full of water, plants, and flowers—a Wyoming oasis. With no schedule and only a general plan, Lilly and I motored northeast to the rural community of Kemmerer. The town sits in a wide valley and is known for being the birthplace of the J.C. Penney department stores. If you were driving too fast, you might not realize that the trout-filled Hams Fork River meanders right through town. At a stop along the water’s edge, Lilly tried out the 3-weight Orvis fly rod she received from her grandfather. I placed a call to Louise, informing her of our route and potential lack of cell coverage, hoping to quell any of her remaining fears. When I asked Lilly if she would like to say hello to her mommy, she replied, “No, I am fine.” Lilly was happy and content being in the moment with Dad. As much as our mothers mean to all of us, in this instance not missing her was a good thing. “Dad, there’s more water!” We pulled over to wet our flies. My eyes scouted the depths for fish as I explained to Lilly the intricacies of fishing, riffles, and eddies. Lilly’s eyes gazed at the water, birds, and blue dragonflies, taking in her surroundings with the gusto of a child. Hours passed; our Land Cruiser was paralleling the Hams Fork heading north on a county road. Lilly called shotgun as we rolled through the spectacular ranch lands. It’s become our little tradition. Continued on page 134

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adventure