C315-QC

ORDER APR 30 - JUN 3, 2024

BORDEAUX, BERGERAC, BEAUJOLAIS & AUSTRIA

Château Beauportail

By Michael Palij, MW

Jerzy Niedojadlo knew he had a rough diamond on his hands after his first vineyard survey. But this was Pécharmant. Pécharmant for goodness’ sake, fully 80 km east of Libourne, slumbering somewhere on the coattails of Bergerac, a city better known for corpulent duellists than for handsome wines. And yet, there was something unique at Beauportail. Jerzy couldn’t put his finger on it until he discovered, in one field, a layer of blue clay. Clay just like that found on the Pomerol plateau.

Jerzy was not a winemaker. He was not even French. The Ontario native’s connection with this part of the Dordogne came via a successful charcoal business that he had bought some years previously. (If there is a link, it is in the gracefully snazzy company logo taken from an original charcoal drawing by his wife Pat, a talented graphic designer).

His answer to the first of two potential obstacles was to approach his nephew, Stefan, who was already knocking out some garagisteworthy stuff back home in Niagara. Did he want to trade up and go Gallic? Stefan said yes.

His answer to the second is to rev up all things Canadian. He chooses Canadian white oak alongside traditional French barrels to mature his wines, which is a stroke of genius straight out of left (blue clay) field. He’s also found the merciless British market relatively easy to navigate; Quintessence de Beauportail 2019 scooped a gold medal at the 2023 London Wine Competition.

Pécharmant itself might not be widely known, yet it is brilliantly situated. This far inland, there is less risk of washout than in Bordeaux and most of the vineyards lie on south-facing, gently-rolling slopes that receive ample sun exposure and a steady amount of air movement, which prevents both disease and the grim possibility of wrinkly grapes.

Big-hitting Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon are the norm, as put to good use in Jerzy’s structured Quintessence de Beauportail. There is more space for Merlot in his Château Beauportail, which impresses with a ripe, Christmas-cakey appeal. This is where the blue clay comes in. It is particularly effective at retaining water and keeping its cool in summer which gives early-ripening Merlot (and other varieties like Côt) the chance to develop power - and yet retain acidity - in the warm Pécharmant climate. This makes Beauportail decidedly ageworthy and, given the stratospheric prices of premium Bordeaux, has got to be good news.

Beauportail is a diligent family operation. Stefan’s wife, Virginie, is the Sales Director, while Pat is the Marketing Director. Production is limited to 5000 cases per year and behind the charming Canadian veneer is a solid respect for local tradition. Their use of the basket press to carefully extract tannins is a choice that both benefits the consumer and safeguards heritage. Farming practices focus on minimal intervention, leaving the natural environment as near to its original state as possible and preserving the status quo for future generations. Beauportail is a heart and soul story of hard work and just a little luck. Here at Opimian, we support exactly that.

Château Beauportail BERGERAC

Pécharmant may well be the best appellation you have never heard of: four communes straddling a southfacing bank of hills at the eastern gateway to Bergerac, the wines here are powerful, inky and downright ageworthy. Think beefed-up Bordeaux from a drier, continental climate with a trump card in ironrich clays, similar to those in Pomerol, contributing a healthy tannic structure.

Château Beauportail is produced in small batches – output is a miniscule 5,000 cases per year – using the traditional French oak basket press, which gently extracts tannins. The estate’s 100-year history is not wasted: it is consistently ranked among the finest in Pécharmant and is now owned by a couple of plucky Canadians who partially age the wine in Canadian oak! Get it while you can.

4975

CHÂTEAU BEAUPORTAIL, AOP PÉCHARMANT, 2019

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec

It’s not that this is the product of a couple of Ontario boys: this is unquestionably really good stuff. The nose is attractive with an intriguing blend of both red and black fruit including plum, cherry, currant Christmas cake. On the palate it is a touch alcoholic, but the fruit is ripe rather than baked and the tannins and acidity – both on the low side –nevertheless all contribute to an appealing glass of red. Drink 2024–2026 – mp

4977

CHÂTEAU BEAUPORTAIL, AOP PÉCHARMANT, 2018 (MAGNUM AND SIGNED BY THE WINEMAKER)

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec

This sports an aristocratic whiff of garrigue, dark chocolate and coffee adding complexity to the usual Bordeaux funfair of blackcurrant, cooked plum, liquorice and baking spice. With six years under its belt this is showing a gorgeous array of primary, secondary and tertiary notes including black fruit, incense, liquorice, cedar and cocoa powder. The tannins are silky yet with a structured character that drives the long finish. 2025-2028 – mp

4976

QUINTESSENCE DE BEAUPORTAIL, AOP PÉCHARMANT, 2019

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec

There’s more Cabernet Sauvignon in the Quintessence, and this is in evidence on the nose with genuine complexity from ripe bramble fruit, slightly more oak with notes of cedar, clove, wood smoke, coffee, cassis, plum and black cherry. This is an absolute hit: who needs Bordeaux when there are wines like this at a fraction of the price? Complex with integrated oak, plenty of acidity and tannins, long length and flavours of oak, black fruit and spice. Keep it for a bit. 2026-2030 –mp

EDITORIAL

Bordeaux and Beyond

By Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Opimian Managing Directors

With all the talk of climate change and slowing global wine sales, Bordeaux remains the best-selling wine region in the world. The same holds true for Opimian Members like you. It's here again! Your Bordeaux, Bergerac, and Beaujolais offering for your ordering pleasure.

Château Beauportail P3

CANADIAN CORNER P6

COUPS DE COEUR P9

INSTANT CELLAR P11

AUSTRIA P14

Höpler P14

BORDEAUX P16

Vignobles Latorse P18

Bordeaux Supérieur P23

EVERYDAY WINES P24

BORDEAUX LEFT BANK P26

Médoc P26

Graves P27

CÔTES DE BORDEAUX P28

Chateau Bel-Air P28

Vignobles Arbo P29

SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU P30

Clos Cantenac P30

BORDEAUX RIGHT BANK P34

Loupiac P35

BEAUJOLAIS P36

Domaine de Milhomme P36

Domaine Sancy P37

Château de Durette P38

Domaine de la Revol P40

BERGERAC P42

Château Pique-Sègue P42

Whisky G. Rozelieures P43

COLLECTOR’S CORNER P44

Bordeaux is anchored by your perennial favourite, Clos Cantenac, Bergerac by Chateau Pique-Segue, and Beaujolais by the many wines brought to you by Vins Tanguy Chevalier who recently assumed the coveted role from Bernard Perrin. Add to that the wonderful wines of Austria by Hopler, and you have a complete selection to choose from to keep your cellar balanced and ready for any drinking occasion.

You may recall that last year we introduced a superior everyday wine from Vignobles Darriet - Chateau de Rouquette (both Blanc and Rouge). Not only were the orders robust, but the reviews coming in have confirmed that your Masters of Wine were right. It's fabulous!

New to Opimian, featured on our cover, and with their wines featured on page 3, Château Beauportail have made us a selection of red blends with both quality and value. Make sure to try them.

The back of the Cellar is always for the spirit lovers and the Collectors. This Cellar is no different. The award-winning French whiskies are back by popular demand, as are the exceptional wines of Chateau Seraphine and Chateau Haut Bergeron. We can be proud that these world-class brands give us exclusive access to their bottles in Canada.

Santé!

Michael & Greg

DIRECTOR'S CUT

HÖPLER GRÜNER

VELTLINER, BURGENLAND, 2023LOT 4922, P14

MICHAEL

CHÂTEAU HAUT

BERGERON, AOC

SAUTERNES CASE2 BOTTLES EACH; 2015 AND 2019LOT 4941, P46 GREG

YOUR MASTERS OF WINE FOR THIS CELLAR

Toronto-based Igor Ryjenkov MW was the first in Canada to earn the prestigious Master of Wine credential in 2003. His wine business expertise has been informed by 24 year in the Ontario trade, first in retail, then in key buying positions, and lastly, in projects, most notably, developing the new 5-dot wine style matrix. Igor is one of Opimian’s Masters of Wines.

Ordering Made Easy

1. SELECT YOUR WINES

Let yourself be inspired by Opimian’s Masters of Wine. Our custom chart features a list of symbols to help guide your selection. Still unsure which wines to order? Contact us!

2. PLACE YOUR ORDER

There are three ways to order. The last day to order for each Cellar Offering can be found listed on the cover. No orders will be processed after this time.

3. LET US HANDLE THE REST

The wines featured on this Cellar Offering are still at the producers’ wineries when you order them, so it is normal that the process takes a bit of time and effort on our side.

Release dates are dependent upon actual arrival dates, distance from port of entry to liquor board and processing time required by each liquor board.

Once the wine arrives at your local liquor store or distribution centre, you will receive a Pick-up Notice with the specified date (the Release Date) and your pick-up location.

Jacky Blisson MW is an independent wine educator, writer, and consultant with over two decades of experience in all facets of the global wine trade. She is the first Master of Wine in Québec and one of only ten

Palij MW Michael Palij is an adventurer, entrpreneur, and the 3rd Canadian Master of Wine. Over the years, he has introduced Opimian to some truly special producers such as Cabutto,

CANADIAN CORNER

1085

HARRIS BEACH RYE 51 CANADIAN WHISKY

CLOUDSLEY CELLARS HOMESTEAD

4220

VINEYARD PINOT NOIR, VQA TWENTY MILE BENCH, 2019

This rye-forward whisky is loaded with personality. The nose is packed with orange zest, vanilla, toasted coconut, mince pie and crème caramel aromas. The initial sip opens with layers of grilled orange, apricot, dates and caramel before it transitions into a long spicy finish. Refined and polished, Beach’s signature smooth mouthfeel makes it easy to enjoy Rye 51 straight; however, its versatile style makes it perfect for classic cocktails such as the Old Fashioned.– lw

The 2019 Cloudsley Cellars Homestead Vineyard Pinot Noir is a single-vineyard wine crafted from fruit grown in Niagara’s Twenty Mile Bench appellation. This is a Burgundian-style Pinot with an evolving bouquet of cherry, leather, balsamic and cured meat. Upon the first sip, the palate expresses notes of cherry, strawberry and raspberry framed with fine grained tannin. An excellent match for beef carpaccio. 2023-2025– lw

Cherry, leather, balsamic, cured meat

Cherry, strawberry, raspberry

Beef carpaccio with arugula and Parmigiano-Reggiano

4560

MELDVILLE BARREL SELECT PINOT NOIR, VQA NIAGARA PENINSULA, 2020

Only 600 bottles made from a 1.5-acre block planted in the 1980s, this saw 24 months of elevage in second-fill French oak. A medium ruby with a hint of garnet appearance. It leads with upfront notes of pickling spice/ dried dill, pickled cherry and beetroot. The palate’s frame is made up of mediumplus acidity, extract, a crescendo of tannins and body. It is extra dry, with a nice length and intensity of raspberry leaf, pickled beet and cherry notes towards a medium-plus finish. 2024-2028– ir

dill, pickled cherry and beetroot

leaf, pickled beet and cherry

rack of lamb with red wine sauce

PEARL MORISSETTE NIAGARA VINEYARDS COUP DE CŒUR, VQA

Chardonnay

The 2021 Pearl Morissette Coup de Cœur captures the essence of the Niagara region in a glass. It is a notably aromatic example of Chardonnay made from vines grown in the red clay soils of the 24-hectare Redfoot vineyard. The property, located in the Lincoln Lakeshore viticultural area, is heavily influenced by the moderating effect of Lake Ontario. Here, the mild climate and the long growing season allow the grapes time to slowly ripen while they develop maximum flavour. Elegant from the first aromas through to the extended finish, this wine offers an expressive bouquet of honeydew melon, peach, apple and lemon scents that are reinforced on the palate. Elevage in 10% new oak demi-muid and 90% foudre, in addition to eight months spent on lees, adds depth and texture to the wine. Fresh acidity perfectly supports the fruit creating a seamless balance. This wine is immediately delightful but also has the capacity to evolve in cellar. The best part? Opimian Members now have exclusive access to this small-lot Canadian gem. It is not even available at the winery! 2023-2028– lw

PEARL MORISSETTE FURIE

BLEND, LINCOLN LAKESHORE VQA, 2020

Cabernet Franc

Ambient yeast, no new oak and extended lees contact make this quite unlike most Bordeaux blends you encountered, so it is best to approach it as advertised – a red blend. Stylistic choices aside, it is still clearly a quality wine. It has a deep opaque ruby appearance. The nose offers mediumintensity aromas with a balsamic element, notes of tomato leaf/ tomatillo, sour black plum, chokeberry, wood spice/clove, a touch of game, bell pepper stew, and pickling spices appear with some air. On the dry palate it shows a medium-plus acidity and a medium-plus frame: extract, superfine powdery tannins and body, a nice length and intensity, with replays and echoes of the aromas – dark fruit, balsamic notes, graphite, earth/beet juice, game and tomato, and a long finish. An introvert for sure, it has a poise, a breed and a persistence. 2024-28, but could keep for up to a decade.– ir

4864

LIGHTFOOT & WOLFVILLE SMALL LOT TRIO BRUT, WOLFVILLE & AVONPORT, NOVA SCOTIA, 2017

Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir

A classic Champenoise blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier crafted in the traditional method. Initially restrained, this elegant sparkling wine offers delicate floral, spiced and biscuit-y notes typical of long lees-aged bubblies. Piercing acidity and lively mousse are nicely balanced by a subtly creamy, layered mid palate. Very precise and lifted. 2024-2029– jb

Dark fruit, balsamic notes, graphite, earth/ beet juice, game and tomato

Guinea Hen

Apple,

Kung pao chicken

MASTER PIECE

Bordeaux and Beaujolais: A Tale of Two Vineyards

By Jacky Blisson MW

In many ways, Beaujolais and Bordeaux are as disparate as two French wine regions can be. Each has its entrenched stereotypes. Beaujolais is light and fruity. Bordeaux is powerful and tannic. With this frame of reference, it seems unlikely that a “serious” Bordeaux aficionado could ever embrace Beaujolais. And yet…

The Singular Song of Gamay

Beaujolais is a sunny, temperate vineyard area due south of Bourgogne in eastern France. This hilly, mainly granite-based region is almost entirely dedicated to Gamay Noir, the region’s only red grape. Its wines generally display evocative dark berry and floral aromas, bright acidity, and moderate tannins.

Throughout much of its history, Gamay was much maligned. In Medieval Times, after the Black Plague decimated Bourgogne’s workforce, great swathes of the vineyard were re-planted to Gamay – a much easier to grow, more productive cultivar than Pinot Noir. Over production led to thin, bitter wines causing the Duke of Bourgogne to deem Gamay, a “bad and disloyal” grape, banning it from his lands.

More recently, the popularity of freshly fermented, Beaujolais Nouveau caused the region’s fortunes to once again rise and then dramatically fall, as people tired of its candied, artificial aromas. Thankfully, Beaujolais lovers are back. A new generation of terroir-focused producers is showing just how good Gamay can be from lower yielding vineyards, grown in the best sites, and vinified with premium quality in mind.

A Storied History of Bordeaux Blends

Heading southwest over the French countryside some 400 kilometres, as the crow flies, we arrive in Bordeaux. The climate here is maritime influenced. Divided in two by the mighty Gironde Estuary, the left bank of Bordeaux is flat and gravelly. Top wines are made from Cabernet Sauvignon-led blends. On the right bank, deeper clay, limestone soils favour Merlotdominant wines.

A deep-seated reverence for Bordeaux dates back many centuries. Overseas interest for Bordeaux wines swelled in the 12th century upon Henry Plantagenet’s marriage to Aliénor of Aquitaine. In the 17th century, quality soared when Dutch engineers drained the marshlands and swamps of the Médoc, revealing what are today, among the region’s finest terroirs.

While Beaujolais produces pleasant Chardonnay wines, and Bordeaux excels at crafting both dry and sweet Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc blends, both regions are best known for their red wines. In Bordeaux, winemaking is highly traditional. The best wines are vinified with careful extraction techniques and extended maceration times to harness their powerful tannins. Long ageing in varying proportions of new and older French oak barrels is the norm.

COUPS DE COEUR

THIS CELLAR'S HIGHEST SCORING WINES BY OUR MASTERS OF WINE

EVERYDAY DRINKING CELLARING POTENTIAL

DOMAINE DE MILHOMME, CUVÉE LE MÛRIER, AOP BEAUJOLAIS, 2023, LOT 4979, P36

HÖPLER ROSÉ CÉLESTIA, BURGENLAND, 2023, LOT 4924, P15

Where the Twain do Meet

Beaujolais might not have the formalized classification systems that sets Left Bank growths, Médoc Cru Bourgeois wines, and Saint Émilion Cru Classé wines apart, but it boasts equally important terroir distinctions. Ten cru appellations exist in the more mountainous north, and central parts, of the vineyard. Wines from areas like Moulinà-Vent, Morgon, Côte de Brouilly, and Fleurie are far fuller-bodied, tannic, and ageworthy than basic Beaujolais.

Inversely, regional appellations like Bordeaux AOC or Bordeaux Superieur AOC, can be lighter, softer, and earlier drinking than expected. This is where the two regions align. Though their fruit character and palate profiles differ, they both offer great value, everyday wine styles brimming with freshness. Lured in by this accessible point of entry, intrepid wine lovers can then easily ascend the quality ladder in Beaujolais, just as they can in Bordeaux. A top Beaujolais will generally peak at ten years ageing, while great

LA DEVINE DU CLOS CANTENAC, AOC SAINTÉMILION GRAND CRU, 2022, LOT 4961, P32

QUINTESSENCE DE BEAUPORTAIL, AOP PÉCHARMANT, 2019, LOT 4976, P3

Bordeaux can go for twenty years or more. This way, wine lovers can enjoy their best Beaujolais while waiting for fine Bordeaux wines to develop.

Recommendations from the Cellar

There are loads of delicious Beaujolais wines to explore in this cellar. Château de Durette has come back strong this year with a slate of lovely wines, including fantastic Morgon and Moulin-à-Vent. Don’t miss their mixed case offerings. Domaine Sancy Chénas is sure to bring a lot of immediate pleasure and Domaine Montangeron Fléurie is a very pretty, perfumed choice.

Our Bordeaux offerings include such a wealth of fantastic options that it is hard to know where to begin! La Devine du Clos Cantenac, from Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, was a unanimous top scorer, earning it a coup de coeur spot. Lovers of older, ready-to-drink Bordeaux wines should consider the mixed case from Château Moutin. Finally, collector’s will not be disappointed by the magnificent Pomerols from Château Séraphine.

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OPIMIAN TRAVEL

Exclusive to Opimian Members and their guests France October 2024

Explore Chablis, Burgundy, and Beaujolais with an intimate group of fellow wine lovers as we visit Opimian partners and other wineries.

All trips will be offered to the entire Membership by email in advance of the registration period. If you would like to be added to the specific TRAVEL email list, please send an email to MemberService@opimian.ca

REFER-A-FRIEND

Talk about a win-win. Have a friend, family member, or co-worker join Opimian and you will each get a case of wine to celebrate. Not only is the wine worth far more than the cost of the Membership, but you'll also have more people to share in the joy of wine. Just direct them to Opimian.ca and click "Join the Club". Be sure they enter your Member Number when prompted and add the Promo Code Opimian24 when prompted for that too. We'll take take care of the rest.

UP TO THE MINUTE

PLEASE KEEP YOUR CREDIT CARD INFORMATION UP-TO-DATE

One of the biggest disappointments we hear from Members and especially wine program subscribers is when their orders do not go through due to an expired credit card. Please keep yours up-to-date.

You can update the information in your dashboard. It's stored in a safe, encrypted database so you have no worries there.

If you have any trouble doing so, please contact Member Service.

OPIMIAN EVENTS

Producer Tastings Coming to a City Near You in 2024!

These events are a chance to taste last year’s vintage of a range of wines in the current cellar. Each tasting will focus on several producers and may include special guests! Keep an eye on your emails and Cellar newsletters for updates.

Visit us on Eventbrite!

MEMBER BENEFITS

We are always looking for ways to make your Opimian Membership more valuable than having exclusive access to world-class, magnificent wines. Here are just a few of the benefits of Membership.

OPIMIAN PARTNERS

The Independent Wine Education Guild (IWEG)

IWEG is offering a special rate for Opimian members for Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET) and Wine Scholar Guild (WSG) courses! To see the full list of courses offered, please visit https://iweg.org and use the code opimian24 at checkout to receive 10 per cent off eligible courses! For further information please contact atheunissen@iweg.org

ReCork

We have partnered with the pioneering company ReCork to recycle our corks from our cellar tastings, events, and dinners – if you would like to do the same learn more by visiting their website. www.recork.com

Jagged Ridge Wine Racks

Save 10% on wine racks @ AmazonPROMO CODE: Opimian10 tinyurl.com/JRRacks

Blue Grouse Cellars

5% off wine cabinets, cooling units, glassware & Accessories - PROMO CODE: Opim23 www.bluegrouseshop.com

Canadian Association of Retired Persons (CARP) & Zoomer MagazineComplimentary year of MembershipOne year of Zoomer for $19.95 Go to shop.carp.ca/CCO22MWCQ

Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF)

Opimian Wine Club members can enjoy 20% off the cost of a TIFF Membership. Take your love of film to the next level with free tickets to TIFF Cinematheque, Festival, and year-round Member pre-sales, discounts across TIFF Bell Lightbox, and so much more.

PROMO CODE: 23OPIMIAN International Wine & Food Society

The IW&FS of Toronto arranges monthly events combining wine and food which include dinners and tastings; all designed to be innovative, educational, enjoyable and of high quality. Opimian members have special access to IWFS events.

HAVE YOU ALWAYS WANTED A WELL-BALANCED, WIDE-RANGING BORDEAUX CELLAR BUT DIDN'T KNOW WHERE TO START?

The "Instant Cellar" is back, with wines curated by Opimian's Masters of Wine.

This professionally curated Bordeaux selection gives you wines from the entire region and in the various Bordeaux styles. It includes wines that are ready to drink, and some that will cellar well.

To order please go to Opimian.ca and search the lot # above, or call Member Service at 1-800-861-9421 or email memberservice@opimian.ca

Singulier Malbec, AOC Bordeaux, 2022, Lot 4928

d'Or du Château Dauphiné Rondillon, AOC Loupiac, Vignobles J. Darriet (375 ml.), 2017, Lot 4950

du Clos du Prévôt, Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon, AOC Bordeaux, Famille Gadras, 2022, Lot 4930

de Roumaud, AOC Bordeaux, Blanc, Vignobles J. Darriet, 2023, Lot 4944 $ 2874

Château Garderose, AOC Lalande de Pomerol, 2021, Lot 4960

THE MASTERS CASE

EASY to order EXPERTLY curated EFFORTLESSLY enjoyable SUBSCRIPTION

OVERWHELMED BY CHOOSING WINES IN THE CELLAR?

SUBSCRIBE TO THE MASTERS CASE, A MIXED, SIX-BOTTLE CASE

The Masters Case wines for this Cellar come from Bordeaux Supérieur, characterized by stricter regulations and meticulous vineyard practices. Here, red wines are crafted from densely planted vineyards, resulting in a more concentrated flavor profile. The Masters Case selection offers the flavours of Bordeaux Supérieur including a new addition to Opimian’s offerings.

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CURATED BY OPIMIAN’S OWN MASTERS OF WINE FOR MEMBERS LIKE YOU.

Getting to Know Opimian's Masters of Wine

In this new series, we're excited to reintroduce you to the driving forces behind our wine selections. Opimian's Masters of Wine shape every offering with their unparalleled knowledge of the world of wine. In this special Q & A, we delve deeper into their backgrounds, personal palates, and gain invaluable insights from the experts themselves.

To read the full article and watch the video, visit the blog at Opimian.ca

Can you tell us a bit about your journey in the world of wine and how you became a Master of Wine?

Igor: The career was not the first thing on my mind as I was setting out to study wine, I just found the subject really fascinating. I got hired for a retail position by the Ontario Liquor Board, after I already had my WSET Diploma (Level 4 now) – with Honors - and was already enrolled into the MW program. After 7 years in retail, with my MW achievement falling near the middle of that time, I was able to move from the retail floor to a buying position in the company, and was one of the two people in charge of the European portfolio, first in the fine wine division for nearly 7 years, and then in a larger general list portfolio, which I took from 440 million CAD to the half-a-billion mark in about 5 years.

I was a part of the VQAO regulatory panel for years, participated in a couple of Bordeaux En Primeur campaigns, partook in a number of Decanter Wine Awards judging, and attended pretty much all the key trade fairs. I travelled to most of the European wine regions for work, and New World ones with MW trips. And today, 28 years on since I started in wine, and 26 since wine became my career, I am glad to be a part of the Opimian team, helping the Club to make the best selection for the members from the range of their suppliers’ offers.

How would you describe your personal tasting style or approach? Are there any specific tasting rituals or techniques you follow?

Jacky: What has always fascinated me about wine tasting, is how it invokes all of your senses. The sound of a cork popping and wine pouring, the brilliant colour, the complex aromatics, the feeling of a wine on your palate, the way the flavours develop…

To do a wine justice, I really need to taste in a quiet, neutral space with good lighting and no strong odours. When the conditions are right, I can immerse myself completely in the process. It is sort of like my version of meditation. What is your preferred style of wine, and how has that evolved over your career?

Michael: I like wines that conform, in some way, to my expectations of grape and place. But within that framework, my tastes are very catholic. Whilst we all start drinking off-dry wines because of our palate’s lack of familiarity with such low pHs, most of us soon move to drier wines. I don’t actually drink very much so the wine needs to earn its tiny slice of my liver. It also means that my consumption tends to be occasion-driven, whether that be the food or the person. Classic would perhaps best describe my cellar and there’s a reasonable amount of Bx and Burgundy but also Germany, Italy and Australia. I would like to learn more about America’s west coast. If I were to choose a desert island wine, it would be Barolo, but only if I were allowed Champagne on arrival, white Burgundy to start, and a sweet German wine to finish.

C315 CELLAR SPOTLIGHT

Bordeaux, Bergerac, Beaujolais or Austrian wine? Which one is your go-to wine or the one you enjoy with food?

Jacky: For perfumed wines of sheer pleasure and easy drinkability, I would go cru Beaujolais. These ten top terroirs give wines that run the gamut from light, silky reds to powerful, ageworthy ones, giving a lot of scope for food pairing. I wouldn’t mind kicking off the pre-dinner apéritif with a nice crisp glass of Austrian Grüner Veltliner though!

Among these regions, is there one you prefer more than the other, and why?

Michael: I love the versatility of Beaujolais – magic with food.

Do you have an anecdote on one of these regions that you would like to share with us?

Igor: The very first time me and two of my friends and study mates arrived to the city of Bordeaux, we got to talk with our cabbie about the city. We asked him what are the key industries in Bordeaux, and he names several – tourism, food processing, manufacturing, as I recall. Wine did not even come up. It was an interesting reminder that not every single person in Bordeaux is involved in wine, even if many are.

Visit opimian.ca to read more.

AUSTRIA

Even though Austria does not regularly top the ranks of the “most” or the “biggest,” it is still very much in a conversation when it comes to quality wine. While it makes a range of good cool climate-familiar, as well as local grapes-based wines, one can argue that the key reason for that is its signature grape: Grüner Veltliner. While it is grown throughout the country’s main wine regions and makes a pleasant entry-level wine, it reaches its peak on the steep slopes of Wachau or Kamptal through its ability to express its provenance and ageworthiness. The warmer region of Burgenland, where most of this cellar’s range is from, offers its signature aromatic profile but with fuller weight and mouthfeel.

Höpler

The Höpler family has been in winemaking since 1860, but today’s winery was founded by Jost Höpler in 1980. His son, Christof, took over in 2007 and has been running the 50-hectare Burgenland estate and adhering to the sustainable practices (the winery is sustainable-certified). However, Jost is still very much in the picture in his “retirement” travelling across the country to meet with their loyal customers, among other fun diversions.

4922 HÖPLER GRÜNER VELTLINER, BURGENLAND, 2023

Grüner Veltliner

$ 30 $ 180

With only two months between harvest (September) and bottling (November), the wine captures the grape’s essence at its freshest. It has a pale lemon-yellow robe and a medium-plus intensity aromatic set with textbook aloe and white pepper as well as flint and grapefruit peel. Dry on the fuller side of medium – extract and body, yet with a medium-plus acidity and soft texture it shows a nice length and persistence of citrus/lime, aloe, oil and grapefruit peel flavours with flint and smoky notes, with a medium-plus finish. 2024-2030 – ir

4923

GRÜNER VELTLINER KIRCHBERG, QUALITÄTSWEIN - LAGENWEIN, BURGENLAND, 2021

Grüner Veltliner

From Kirchberg vineyard, first planted in 1203 by Cistercian monks, this wine spent six months in neutral barrels to give it additional roundness. A light lemonyellow appearance. The nose features mediumplus intensity aromas of hazelnut milk, lemon oil, wax, wool/ peat, smoke and lemon crème brulée. The wine is dry and soft-textured, with a structure of medium acidity, medium-plus extract and medium-plus body, complemented by a lovely length and fruit intensity of lemon oil, wax/paraffin, peat, citrus and a nice, decadently coating medium-plus to long finish. 2024-2028 – ir

4924 HÖPLER ROSÉ CÉLESTIA, BURGENLAND, 2023

Blaufränkisch, St. Laurent, Pinot Noir

A blend of Pinot Noir, St. Laurent and Blaufränkisch. A light electric pink color in the glass. It has a medium intensity on the nose with notes of red plum, leaf, pink grapefruit sorbet with lifted, floral accents; a little edgy now, but should mellow quickly. The medium-sized palate is dry with a medium acidity and a soft texture with a medium length and berry, red plum and a bit of floral fruit towards the medium finish. 2024-2025 – ir

4925 HÖPLER BLAUFRÄNKISCH, BURGENLAND, 2021

Blaufräenkisch

Blaufränkisch grape is one of the Central European and Austrian specialties. It shows a deep ruby red robe in the glass and mediumintensity aromas of red and black berries, bay leaf, carnations and black olive richness. It is dry on the palate with medium dimensions – acidity, extract, fine-textured tannins and body, with lovely length and persistence of laurel, carnation, black olive and black plum reduction flavours and a medium-plus finish. 2024-2026 – ir

4926

HÖPLER ZWEIGELT, QUALITÄTSWEIN, BURGENLAND, 2019

Zweigelt

The offspring of Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent, Zweigelt is the most widely planted red grape in the country. It is opaque, deep ruby red in the glass. On the nose it offers medium-intensity vanilla, candied berry, red plum, fruit custard and overall lifted, pretty aromas. The palate is dry, has a medium acidity, a medium extract, medium fine-textured tannin and a medium body, with nice length and fruit intensity of creamy, floral, a bit of confectionary but attractive red plum and berry custard flavours, closing with a medium-plus finish. 2024-2026 –ir

BORDEAUX

Bordeaux is among the most historic and prestigious of the world’s wine regions. While its classed growth Châteaux are sought after by fine-wine collectors, Bordeaux also offers fantastic value for everyday wine drinkers. In fact, it is the largest appellation of origin (AOC) vineyard region in France. Located in the southwest, on the Atlantic

coast, Bordeaux has a temperate maritime climate. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are the major grapes producing red blends with classic dark fruit and earthy flavours, a full-bodied structure and elegant tannins. The region also produces crisp, lively white wines, and luscious dessert wines, like its legendary Sauternes.

4927

CHÂTEAU DU PIN, AOC

BORDEAUX CASE6 BOTTLES EACH: 2020, 2021

SO POPULAR WE DOUBLED THE CASE SIZE AND GAVE YOU TWO VINTAGES

This Château du Pin mixed case offers an excellent opportunity to compare the riper, more opulent profile of the warm 2020 vintage with the more classically styled, fresh and aromatic 2021 wines.

CHÂTEAU DU PIN, AOC BORDEAUX, 2020

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

This Merlot-dominant red Bordeaux hails from the much-vaunted 2020 vintage. Heady, ripe dark fruit aromas mingle with undertones of dried flowers and exotic spice. Despite the season’s heat, this full-bodied Bordeaux still offers fresh acidity and tangy fruity flavours. Savoury, dried herbal notes linger on the finish. Fantastic value! 2024-2028– jb

CHÂTEAU DU PIN, AOC BORDEAUX, 2021

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

Red and dark plum, cassis, dried herbs

Caramelized roast vegetable medley

The 2021 vintage offers a vibrant, lifted interpretation of good, everyday red Bordeaux. Classic cassis notes meet with leafy, minty aromas and flavours. The palate is defined by its brisk acidity and fine tannins. This is a very harmonious and approachable MerlotCabernet Sauvignon blend that is ready to drink. Serve slightly chilled. Should even please lovers of light red wine. 2024-2027– jb

BORDEAUX

Vignobles Latorse

4928 SINGULIER MALBEC, AOC BORDEAUX, 2022

Four generations, five estates and 130 hectares of vineyards: the Latorse family is never standing still. Established in the 1930s and headquartered at Châteaux Gabaron, just 20 minutes from Bordeaux, this estate has more than a little bit of stardust to it. A collaboration with Michel Rolland in the 1980s is one of their many achievements, but the Latorse family have always been ardent trailblazers with their constant innovation including the first thermoregulated cellars in the region. Fourth-generation Jacques and David continue to amaze with their high-quality, innovative range, including a monovarietal Malbec and a Bordeaux AOC without added sulphites. So much for the unfashionable corner.

4929 SANS SOUFRE, AOC BORDEAUX, 2021

This opens with a sumptuous nose of ripe blackberry, vibrant blueberry and heady kirsch, with wood spices and even white pepper. The graceful palate is well supported by moderate tannins and acidity, allowing plush flavours of raspberry, cassis and other dark fruits to shine alongside a subtly developed note of raisin with a lick of sour cherry. 2024-2025 –mp

Medium ruby hue. Oaky aromas of cedar and coffee very much to the fore here, quickly followed by fulsome notes of bramble and blackcurrant. The palate packs a vibrant punch, waves of lush, dark fruit melded with rich fruit cake, vanilla and sweet spice all framed by a buoyant acidity. Tannins are well-integrated and accommodating, and there is impressive length. 2024-2025 – mp

VIGNOBLES DARRIET

Pioneering Bordeaux winemakers since 1798, the Darriet family's legacy continues under Jean Christophe Darriet managament. In 1962, his father, Guy, expanded their domain aquiring Chateau de Rouquette with 16 hectares of vines, and an 18thcentury Chartreuse house overlooking Cadillac. Their wines blend heritage and innovation, reflecting Bordeaux's timeless allure.

4944

DOMAINE DE ROUMAUD, AOC BORDEAUX, BLANC, VIGNOBLES J. DARRIET, 2023

Sémillon

30 $ 180

Pale lemon hue. This offers an uncluttered, attractive nose of crunchy nectarine, ripe apricot and attractive wild honey indicating fully ripe fruit. The palate is a deft exchange between the respective strengths of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, springy but with decent oomph, sporting creamy lanolin, beeswax, gooseberry, peach and unripe banana. Designed for immediate enjoyment when the fruit is orchard fresh. 2024-2025 –mp

4945

Peach, lanolin, beeswax, green banana

Chicken makhani

PETITE MARINE LE ROSÉ, AOC BORDEAUX, THE DARRIET FAMILY, 2023

Cabernet Sauvignon

Medium pink hue. New-wave Bordeaux fermented at cool temperatures to bring out a zingy appeal. Forward, fruity nose of cranberry, red cherry and tinned strawberries with cream. The palate offers more zest, with juicy pink grapefruit, a dose of red cherry and raspberry and a firm, punchy finish. 2024-2025 – mp

13%

Thai green curry

4946

PETITE MARINE LE ROUGEMERLOT, AOC BORDEAUX, THE DARRIET FAMILY, 2022

Merlot

A quintessential, plummy Merlot resplendent in a deep ruby hue that will put colour in your cheeks. The nose is generous: black plum, juicy blackberry, baking spices, and light oak notes feeding a let’s-getthe-party-going atmosphere. A rounded palate is packed with plum, fruit cake, black cherry, baked fruits, clove and cedar, framed by crisp acidity and some useful tannins. 2024-2025 – mp

Blackcurrant, black plum, baking spices, incense

Black cherry, baked blackberries, clove, cedar

Grilled veal chops

CHÂTEAU DU CLOS DU PRÉVÔT, MERLOT-CABERNET SAUVIGNON, AOC BORDEAUX, FAMILLE GADRAS, 2022

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

An 80:20 blend with a cold soak and extended 28-day fermentation and maceration. It shows an opaque, deeppurple ruby appearance. A little shy at first, the nose then reveals aromas of lees, dough, vanilla bean, oak shavings and black plum reduction with notes of leaf and cedar. It is dry, has a medium acidity, a medium extract, medium fine-textured tannins and a medium body with lovely length and persistence of celery, mint/cedar, black plum fruit flavours with hints of dough and vanilla merging towards the medium-plus finish. 2024-2028 – ir

4932

LE BENJAMIN, AOC BORDEAUX, LE VIN DES BONS VIVANTS, VIN BIOLOGIQUE, 2021

4933

CHÂTEAU HAUT MAGINET, AOC BORDEAUX, VIGNOBLES JOLIVET, 2023

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

Merlot with 5% Petit Verdot. A deep ruby hue in the glass, it has a medium intensity on the nose with notes of red plum skins and pit, chives, earth/ beetroot and lifted tones. The dry palate offers a medium frame acidity, extract, softtextured tannins and body with solid length and intensity, if slightly rustic, of red plum flesh, pit and skin, earth, chives and beetroot and a medium finish. 2024-2026 –ir

Medium purple hue. Traditional Bordeaux from an environmentally conscious producer. This has a scented nose of baking spice, crushed forest fruits and floral notes of wild rose and acacia. The classically proportioned palate combines taut acidity and fine grain tannins revealing classic blackberry and blackcurrant flavours anchored by hints of nutmeg and menthol. There is decent length to the finish –and enough stuffing to leave it in the cellar if you prefer. 2024-2027– mp

and caramelized peppers

A board of pâtés and terrines

4931

CHÂTEAU DU CLOS DU PRÉVÔT BLANC AND ROSÉ CASE6 BOTTLES EACH:

$ 21 $ 252

In case of (summertime) emergency, pull out this case: with a white and a rosé, it is a turn-key solution to an impromptu backyard get-together, a surprise picnic or a welcome unplanned reminder of summer indoors when the winter just doesn’t want to end.

FROM FRENCH KING PRÉVOST TO YOU AT AN EVERYDAY DRINKING PRICEPOINT

CHÂTEAU DU CLOS DU PRÉVÔT, SAUVIGNON SÉMILLON, AOC BORDEAUX, FAMILLE GADRAS, 2023

Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon

A 60:40 blend. It has a pale lemon-yellow color and medium-intensity aromas of starfruit, quince, gooseberry leaf, lemon peel and floral hints. It is dry on the palate with a medium acidity, a medium extract, a soft texture and a medium body, with medium length and fruit consisting of citrus flesh and pith, starfruit, gooseberry leaf and quince, closing with a medium finish. 2024-2026 –ir

CHÂTEAU DU CLOS DU PRÉVÔT, CABERNET FRANC-MERLOT, ROSÉ, AOC BORDEAUX, FAMILLE GADRAS, 2023

Cabernet Franc, Merlot

A 65:35 split here. It’s pale neon pink in the glass. The medium-intensity nose shows pink grapefruit, chives, black plum skins and floral/leafy elements. The palate is dry with medium dimensions: acidity, extract, texture and body, with a nice persistence of plum/ prune, pink grapefruit, floral and cranberry flavours funneling into a medium finish. 2024-2025 –ir

Starfruit, quince, gooseberry leaf, lemon peel, floral

Citrus, starfruit, gooseberry leaf and quince

As an apéritif

Pink grapefruit, chives, black plum skins, floral/leafy

Plum/prune, pink grapefruit, floral, cranberry

Summer orzo salad

MIXED CASE

THE

EARL Million Rousseau Jacquère Cru Jongieux and Roussette de Savoir Case3 Bottles Each Lot 4988

EARL Million Rousseau, Jacquère Cru Jongieux, AOP Savoie, 2023

EARL Million Rousseau, Roussette de Savoie AOP Savoie, 2022

Jacquère Altesse

From vines of 30 years average age, this Savoie specialty has a platinum pale yellow colour in the glass. A refreshing, sorbet-like attack of medium-intensity aromas of lees, quince, starfruit and white currant on the nose. Medium acidity and finish. 2024-2026–IR

Another local specialty from vines on average 45 years old. The wine has a pale lemon-yellow hue and pretty, attractive, medium-intensity aromas of wild strawberries and white raspberries with lees/oily notes. The palate is dry with attractive fruit that follows the nose with berries, lees/oily tones and grapefruit bitterness. Medium-plus finish. 2024-2026–IR

Bottle Shop

Discover these wines from the Savoie and Beaujolais regions, available exclusively online!

Château de Durette, Exception, AOP Régnié, 2023

14.5%

Black Gamay with White Juice

As glorious as Beaujolais gets, this is richly perfumed. The fruit is fully ripe rather than stewed and this shows wonderful typicity. Youthful but an absolute joy already, the crunchy acidity balances the ripe red and black fruit whilst the soft tannins make this highly versatile with food. 2025-2026–MP

MIXED CASE

EARL Million Rousseau Gamay de Savoie, Cru Jongieux and Mondeuse de Savoie Case: 3 Bottles Each

EARL Million Rousseau, Gamay de Savoie, Cru Jongieux, AOP Savoie, 2022

EARL Million Rousseau, Mondeuse de Savoie, AOP Savoie, 2022

From the vines with an average age of 30 years. An opaque, deep ruby red robe. A little shy on the nose with notes of tobacco and cold ash, cured meat, black olive tapenade, chokeberry and a minerally element. Dry and medium-framed on the palate. Nice length and intensity, with black sour plum reduction, minerally and sanguine notes and a medium finish. 2024-2026–IR

A unique-to-Savoie red grape from 30-year-old vines on average. Deep ruby red color and a medium-intensity aromatic set with red plum, red cherry, cola and a hint of spice. The palate is dry and has a medium acidity and body, with lovely length and persistence of sour cherry, red plum, nuts and a bit tarry/smoky flavours. Medium-plus finish. 2024-2026–IR

BORDEAUX

Bordeaux Supérieur is an AOC/P that is a step up from the regional Bordeaux AOC/P. It comes from the same grapes and the same area as Bordeaux but has more stringent regulations. The red is sourced from a more densely planted vineyard – 4,500 vines/hectare vs 4,000 – with a lower yield at 50 hectolitres/hectare compared to five hectolitres/hectare with a half-degree higher potential and actual alcohol than the regular Bordeaux. Plus, the wine released at a later date in the following summer. The white Bordeaux Supérieur is actually a sweet wine and rarely seen on the markets. The annual production volume of red Supérieur is roughly a third to a quarter of that of Bordeaux Rouge AOC/P.

4934 CHÂTEAU VIEUX DOMINIQUE, AOC BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR, 2018

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

Medium garnet hue. Matured to perfection with subtle, enticing aromas of blackcurrant, clove, liquorice, and cedar. On the palate, cedary oak notes take a back seat to baked plum, cassis and forest floor, which present themselves with graceful maturity and length. The finish is reassuringly upbeat, acidity and tannins keeping tempo with concentrated fruit. 2024-2025 – mp

4935

CHÂTEAU

BOIS NOIR, AOC BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR, 2020

4936

CHÂTEAU DES ARRAS, CUVÉE RHÉA, AOC BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR, 2020

Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon

Deep ruby hue. The name comes from the dark pine forest that surrounds the vineyard, and there is indeed something of the night about the outspoken nose full of deep blackcurrant, blackberry, vanilla, and black plum. A fulsome palate offers a cascade of black fruits and confident oak notes such as dark chocolate and cedar, with ripe, soft tannins. Definitely a food wine. 2024-2026 – mp

Merlot and both Cabs from 50-year-old vines. An opaque black purple-red robe here. The nose offers medium-intensity aromas of cream, walnut essence, prune reduction, bitter chocolate, lees/paste and black soil/chicory root. The dry palate follows with a medium acidity, a medium extract, medium finetexture tannins and a medium body, supported by lovely length and fruit intensity of celery seed, walnut, herbs/chicory root, bitter chocolate and black soil, and a medium-plus finish. 2024-2026 –ir

CHÂTEAU DE ROUQUETTE, OPIMIAN EXCLUSIVE SELECTION, BLANC, AOC BORDEAUX, VIGNOBLES J. DARRIET, 2023

Sauvignon Blanc

A humdinger of a white, tasted both at the château and in Montreal. Cold maceration prior to fermentation allows for terrific extraction of flavour in this gorgeous Sauvignon Blanc. There is a fresh, lively nose of cut grass, gooseberry, zesty lime and lemon curd. The equally vibrant palate is well supported by puckering, mouthwatering acidity, bursting with flavours of zesty grapefruit and herbaceous summer florals. 2024-2025 – mp

13%

Cut grass, gooseberry, lemon curd, lime juice

Grapefruit, lemon, herbaceous notes, floral

Fresh-shucked oysters

Dried fruit and nut-stuffed roast pork tenderloin

Deep purple hue. Indulgent nose of cooked blackberry, plum jam and raspberry, reminiscent of biting into a summer fruit pie. Very New World with deep, assertive fruit flavours, soft tannins and a hint of barriqueinspired vanilla. Balanced and easy to drink, this is one of those kick-back-and-enjoy numbers that will invariably please. 2024-2026 – mp CHÂTEAU DE ROUQUETTE, OPIMIAN EXCLUSIVE SELECTION, ROUGE, AOC BORDEAUX, VIGNOBLES J. DARRIET, 2023

WINES TO SAVOUR ANY DAY OF THE WEEK BETTER THAN ITS PREDECESSOR IN TASTINGS AND YOUR ORDERS

4956

CHÂTEAU LA BERNÈDE GRAND POUJEAUX, AOC MOULIS-ENMÉDOC, 2020

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

The Moulis appellation sits between some of the Haut-Médoc’s finest communes, set slightly further back from the Gironde estuary with deeper clay and limestone soils. The wines can be a bargain next to their more illustrious neighbours. This cuvée is very well-made with a fine balance of fruity, earthy, and savoury flavours, firm, yet fine-grained tannins and an elegant finish. 2024-2030 –jb

BORDEAUX LEFT BANK

The vineyards of Bordeaux are separated by the mighty Gironde estuary which divides into two rivers: the Garonne and the Dordogne. The vineyards to the east of the Gironde and Garonne are referred to as the Left Bank. If you have ever heard of the 1855 classification of Médoc wines, you are in Left Bank territory. Cabernet Sauvignon thrives on the area’s gravelly, limestone-rich soils. Closer proximity to the Atlantic moderates the climate, allowing the lateripening grape to achieve high levels of complexity and concentration. Merlot plays an important supporting role, adding flesh and plummy fruit to Cabernet’s firmer, more tannic personality.

Médoc

Driving north from the city of Bordeaux, one rapidly comes upon the stately châteaux and picturesque villages of the Médoc. The famed vineyard communes of Margaux, Saint Julien, Pauillac, and Saint Estèphe are located here, in the Haut Médoc subregion. Within the wider Médoc, there are many hidden-gem estates to discover for everyday drinking to short-term cellaring.

GRAVES

Graves, a warmish area of freedraining, mineral-rich silts to the south of Bordeaux, has held a reputation for wine production since the 1300s (longer, out of interest, than any of its neighbouring appellations). The northern Graves, from La Brède towards the city limits, was seconded by aspirational, breakaway Pessac-Léognan in 1987; estates here may still, in theory, use Graves as their appellation, although few do, and the appellation status is more commonly reserved for the southern Graves, stretching from La Brède to just south of Langon. Wines can be either red or white and are typically made for mid-term enjoyment, often offering excellent value, although the heavyweights of Haut-Brion and La Mission also call this home.

CHÂTEAU MOUTIN, AOC GRAVES, VIGNOBLES J. DARRIET, 2001

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

Proving that Château Moutin has what it takes, this fully mature claret shows off the best of 2001. A refined, gentle nose entertains with tertiary notes of leather, wet leaves and forest floor overlaid with cooked blackberry and blueberry. On the palate there is plenty of stately dried fruit to back an array of oaky spices and the fine, dusty tannins that come with successful ageing. 2024-2025 –mp

CHÂTEAU MOUTIN, AOC GRAVES, VIGNOBLES J. DARRIET, 2018

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

Classic Beef Wellington

CHÂTEAU MOUTIN, AOC GRAVES, VIGNOBLES J. DARRIET, 2008

4947

Medium garnet. This delivers a feisty nose packed with black olive, black pepper, mint and black fruits. The palate has bags of old-world identity and is wonderfully gamey: beef stock, forest floor and earthy notes are the signature Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux indicators. Subtly sweet butterscotch and cedar from 18-24 months of 50% new and 50% one-year-old oak round off the palate. Can be cracked 2024-2025 but finishes with admirable strength. 2024–2026 –mp

CHÂTEAU MOUTIN MIXED CASE – 3 BOTTLES EACH: 2001 AND 2008 (WOOD CASE) 14%

Cabernet Sauvignon

Family estates are a tradition in the Graves, and Château

Moutin – a Darriet property for a cool 200 years – is no exception. The unusually deep, clay-rich soils at Moutin are suited to Merlot, which develops delightfully over time here (the mean age of vines exceeds 50 years). Unsurprisingly, the best vintages can be exceedingly age-worthy – and come in at a price that should probably be kept secret.

The 80% Merlot in this contributes a backdrop of blackberry, plum, cherry and autumn spice while oak adds incense, cedar and pencil lead. The best part of 15 years in bottle has added another layer with forest floor and mushroom coming to the party. 2024-2025 fully mature, this has those wonderful dusty tannins and a streak of acidity that signify decent claret. No need to keep this – enjoy it at the peak of its powers. 2024-2025 –mp

roasted

CÔTES DE BORDEAUX

In 2017, five Bordeaux appellations were merged to form the Côtes de Bordeaux. These growing areas are spread across the region, though all share important similarities: they are all located along the right banks of Bordeaux’ major rivers – Gironde, Garonne, Dordogne – and all share the same maritime-influenced climate. The term côte in French refers to hillside and, indeed, these areas all boast hilly terrains angling the vines to the sun. The five vineyard areas – Blaye, Cadillac, Castillon, Francs, Sainte-Foy – can use their original names, appended to the common Côtes de Bordeaux appellation.

NEW PRODUCER

Château Bel-Air Eiffel

This historic property belongs to the descendants of Gustave Eiffel, builder of Paris’ famous Eiffel Tower. The estate is located in the Graves de Vayres, a small Bordeaux appellation in the Entre-Deux-Mers region, between the left and right banks. This flat, gravelly vineyard area produces crisp Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc blends. Rounded, bright fruited red wines are also produced here.

4957

CHÂTEAU BEL-AIR, MARGUERITE EIFFEL, HÉRITIERS GUSTAVE EIFFEL, AOC GRAVES DE VAYRES, BLANC, 2022

Sauvignon, Semillon, Muscadelle

The Sémillon grape reveals a steely, taut structure in this crisp, dry white wine. Discreet notes of flint and smoke give way to floral, citrus, and riper tropical fruit notes with aeration. The palate is medium in body with lots of tangy fruit and lingering resinous, woody hints. Quite an intriguing balance of flavours. 2024-2028 –jb

4958

CHÂTEAU BEL-AIR, MARGUERITE EIFFEL, HÉRITIERS GUSTAVE EIFFEL, AOC GRAVES DE VAYRES, ROUGE, 2019

Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

A classic blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc revealing fragrant dark fruits with exotic spice undertones. The palate is refreshing with an ample, smooth frame and quite well-rounded tannins. This 2019 vintage is at its best now – and in a fruit forward, charming style. 2024-2026 –jb

4959

CHÂTEAU BEL-AIR EIFFEL, HÉRITIERS GUSTAVE EIFFEL, AOC GRAVES DE VAYRES, 2020

Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

The “Héritiers Gustave Eiffel” red is an altogether more serious affair with its firm, chiselled structure and weighty core. Ripe dark fruit combines with minty, herbaceous notes, as well as oaked undertones of cedar and graphite on the nose. The palate is youthful and lively. Needs a little time to unwind and integrate further. 2024-2029 –jb

4937

LES MOULINS DE COUSSILLON, CASTILLON CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, VIGNOBLES ARBO, 2020

Merlot, Cabernet Franc

An 80:20 blend. The wine has a deep ruby, opaque appearance and mediumintensity aromas of red plum, blackberry preserve, bell pepper stew, chives, lees/ dough with a custard/confectionary note. With medium-framed acidity, extract, fine medium-textured tannins and body, the palate is dry with a nice length and a medium persistence of plum, blackberry, lees, leaf/mulch, roasted bell pepper, celery and clay brick elements with a medium finish. 2024-2026 – ir

a custard/ confectionary note

Plum, blackberry, lees, leaf/mulch, roasted bell pepper, celery and clay brick

4938

CHÂTEAU GODARD BELLEVUE, FRANCS CÔTES DE BORDEAUX, VIGNOBLES ARBO, 2018

Merlot, Cabernet Franc

Merlot with Cab Franc (20%) and Cab Sauv (15%), from 45-65 year old vines in blue clay along St Emilion plateau, 12 months of French oak with 30% new. An opaque, black purple red hue in the glass. The nose delivers medium-intensity notes of red plum, cedar, vanilla, cassis and cream. The palate is dry with a medium acidity, a medium extract, medium fine mediumtextured tannins and a medium body, with lovely length and fruit intensity of red plum, cassis, cedar, cream, notes of vanilla and dough/lees concluding with a medium finish. 2024-2028 – ir

Braised and grilled beef short ribs 13.5%

Red plum, blackberry preserve, bell pepper

chives, lees/dough with a custard/ confectionary note

Plum, blackberry, lees, leaf/mulch, roasted bell pepper, celery and clay brick

VIGNOBLES ARBO

Bernadette and Joseph Arbo are at the helm of the estate that spans five generations of Bernadette’s family. After trials and tribulations – WWI, sale of part of the vineyard, joining the co-op while rehabilitating the vineyard, then leaving it – since 1998 the 51-hectare estate, split between Francs and Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, has been steered by the couple towards a more sustainable approach with the focus on expressing their terroirs under the dedicated Châteaux banners for both Francs and Castillon areas.

SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU

Clos Cantenac

An Englishwoman in Bordeaux? Surely not! The locals might wince, but Plumpton-educated Charlotte Krajewski makes exceedingly good wine. Clos Cantenac is six hectares of solid Grand Cru terroir situated in western St-Émilion, near the port town of Libourne. Krajewski’s work here has wowed the world’s most dedicated critics – from Jane Anson to Lisa Perrotti-Brown. Her finely balanced but deeply concentrated Merlot puts this downtrodden (but sometime glamourous) grape back on the map. A family concern, her father Martin is a proprietor, and he has an enviable track record in the drinks trade: previously owner of Château de Sours, from 2003 to 2015, he is a founding partner of Aristea wines in South Africa and the Oslo Distillery in Norway. Wizardry of the highest calibre, however, comes from his daughter.

ruby hue. Fragrant, layered nose stacked with blueberry, black cherry, cranberry, plus a hint of vanilla and coconut. The palate makes good on its promises, exhibiting masses of astutely defined black ruby plum, cassis and black cherry allied to judicious oak notes in cedar, vanilla and coconut. This has the acidity and structure to go the distance – I have rarely tasted better at this price. 2024-2030 – mp

Pale salmon pink, almost translucent hue. Intense, fragrant aromas with masses of luscious wild strawberry, mandarin peel, grapefruit and summer red berries. A taut palate shows a little tannic grip and salinity to balance the fine, clean, juicy raspberry, red currant and rose petal flavours. Long, dry, persistent finish. 2024-2026 – mp

Medium ruby hue. Pronounced, jovial nose of toast, blackberry, dark chocolate and fruit cake. The palate reveals an energetic structure, strapping blackcurrant and red plum framed by zippy acidity and ripe, fine grain tannins, tapering to a chalky, refined finish. Enjoy straight out the blocks while you wait for the big sister to mature. 2024-2026 –mp

Medium ruby hue. Exotic nose of incense, patchouli, candle wax, dried blueberry and crushed fruit supported by barrel notes of cedar, vanilla and sweet spice. This unwinds elegantly on the palate with layers of silky tannins and concentrated fruit coming together in impressive harmony. The length never falters, and there are flavours of wood smoke, vanilla, coconut, blackberry, blueberry and cooked plum rolling up in intoxicating fashion. 2028-2035 – mp

Spit-roasted leg of lamb

BORDEAUX RIGHT BANK

The vineyard area to the west of the Gironde Estuary and the Dordogne River is referred to as the Right Bank of Bordeaux, home to the famed appellations of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. Further from the Atlantic Ocean, the climate on the Right Bank is more continental with cooler winters and hotter summers.

The soils are deeper and richer in clay –a perfect environment for the Merlot grape. Top Right Bank blends feature Merlot as their starring grape with Cabernet Franc as the prime blending partner. Right Bank wines tend to be riper and more generously proportioned than their Left Bank counterparts.

4939

NEW

PROMESSE DE CHÂTEAU SOLEIL, AOC PUISSEGUIN SAINTÉMILION, 2021

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

Seductive aromas of minty herbs, red berries and dark fruit waft from the glass of this pretty Puisseguin Saint-Émilion. The palate is vibrant with juicy red and dark fruit, firm tannins and a dry, earthy finish. Quite a complex red for the price, brimming with the hallmark freshness and aromatic purity that define good 2021 vintage wines. 2024-2027–jb

NEW

4960 CHÂTEAU GARDEROSE, AOC LALANDE DE POMEROL, 2021

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

The Château Garderose 2021 exudes a tempting perfume of ripe dark fruit, floral notes, peppery spice and underlying hints of tar. The palate is bold yet refreshing with layers of tangy dark fruit and lingering savoury, spiced nuances. Firm, wellformed tannins frame the finish. A complex, harmonious wine with good moderate-term ageing potential. 2024-2032–jb

Dark fruits, exotic spice, meaty undertones

BORDEAUX RIGHT BANK

Loupiac

Cross the Garonne from Barsac, just north of Sauternes, and one finds Loupiac, a forgotten appellation producing sweet wines that offer exceptional value. The gravel and clay soils and the 100-metre altitude (not insignificant in these parts) makes one wonder why the botrytis crossed the road – or the river, rather. With an illustrious history and identical grapes (Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris), there is much for sweet-wine lovers to celebrate. In classic vintages, the altitude and distance from the river combine to encourage a delicate, honeyed style that often needs no oak and is marginally lighter than Sauternes. There is a wealth of tradition here, fabulous value and rich pickings for the cost-conscious.

4950

CUVÉE D'OR DU CHÂTEAU

DAUPHINÉ RONDILLON, AOC

LOUPIAC, VIGNOBLES J. DARRIET, 2017

Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc

A timeless number from a well-established Château that has been a favourite at multiple Elysée dinner parties. The deep golden lustre leads to a luxurious nose of ripe peach, apricot, unctuous honeycomb, almond and vanilla. The opulent, enticing palate reveals marmalade, tinned fruit salad and marzipan, with a warming, lingering finish. This is utterly delicious. 2024-2027– mp

4951

CUVÉE D'OR DU CHÂTEAU DAUPHINÉ RONDILLON, AOC LOUPIAC, VIGNOBLES J. DARRIET, 2003 (WOOD CASE)

Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc

2003 made for an excellent sweet-wine vintage, the best wines possessing the necessary concentration to age for decades. This still has it and is arguably at the peak of its powers. The complex, alluring bouquet offers tertiary notes of ginger and grilled almonds followed by succulent pineapple and lychee. The weighty palate delivers honey, mango and buttered toast with the acidity providing clarity that leads onto a most impressive finish. 2024-2025 – mp

Almond, marmalade, tinned fruit salad,

As an utterly delicious sipper

Foie gras

BEAUJOLAIS

If every Beaujolais producer owned a time machine, they would return en masse to 1970 and ensure that whoever invented Beaujolais Nouveau was tarred, feathered and run out of town. It has taken the wine world a good 50 years to forget about the bright, frothy, embarrassment that was on the lips of every celebrity for two decades. Apologies, therefore, for reminding you – but there is so much more to this region. With ten individual cru, ancient soils formed from decomposed granite, the unique Gamay grape and scads of ancient bush vines, this is a region that has no shortage of reasons to believe. Good Beaujolais is a joy: it combines fresh acidity with soft tannins and a moreish red and black fruit character that is indispensable with foods such as ham, duck and goose.

Domaine de Milhomme

Domaine de Milhomme, based near the village of Ternand in southern Beaujolais, traces its roots in the area to the 1500s. Reputedly named after a medieval local conflict that involved “1,000 men,” the property is run by Bernard Perrin's nephew Manuel, tending to the vines planted in weathered granite soils, not unlike those found in some cru vineyards.

4978

TANGUY CHEVALIER, CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE BRUT, AOP CRÉMANT DE BOURGOGNE, NV

Chardonnay

Delicious old-vine Chardonnay in sparkling form with a pronounced nose of ripe apple, cantaloupe melon, candied peel and lemon. The lively palate is packed with peach, quince, apricot and honeydew, balanced by an assertive acidity that refreshes the palate. An essential accompaniment to summer. 2024-2025 – mp

4979

DOMAINE DE MILHOMME, CUVÉE LE MÛRIER, AOP BEAUJOLAIS, 2023

From 75-year-old vines, on average. It shows an opaque, deep purple ruby appearance. The nose is of medium intensity lifted with elements of paste/dough/lees, coffee wafers, dark chocolate and a hint of cassis. The palate is dry, has a hint of spritz and medium-sized acidity, extract, mediumtextured tannins and body, with nice length and fruit; a little leesy/doughy still, with dark chocolate, cassis and blood orange towards a medium-plus finish. 2024-2026 – ir

Paste/dough/lees, coffee wafers, dark chocolate, a hint of cassis

Leesy/doughy, dark chocolate, cassis and blood orange

Soy-glazed salmon with honey and garlic

DOMAINE SANCY

This small Juliénas estate has been passed down through the generations of the Boyer family: in 2014, Thomas Boyer took up the reins. He manages the property according to Haute Valeur Environmentale-certified sustainable practices. His vineyards in Juliénas are planted on the sunny southern slopes of the Mont du Bessay on a patchwork of granitic and sedimentary soils. Domaine Sancy also has plantings in Saint-Amour and Chénas.

4983

DOMAINE SANCY CRU CASE –3 BOTTLES EACH: CHÉNAS AND SAINT-AMOUR

The Domaine Sancy mix case offers two lovely expressions of cru Beaujolais: the SaintAmour in a lighter, softer style; the Chénas with its more ample frame and exuberant fruit.

THE PERFECT PAIRING CASE WITH LIGHT AND MEDIUM BODY

The Domaine Sancy Chénas 2023 may be discreet on the nose initially, but its vivid red berry, dark fruit and baking-spice flavours really come alive on the palate. This medium-bodied red wine has brisk, refreshing acidity and smooth tannins. Finishes with subtle earthy nuances. Very harmonious. 2024-2028 –jb

Saint-Amour is the northernmost cru of the Beaujolais. This 2023 vintage from Domaine Sancy is true to the appellation with its discreet berry aromas, light body and supple texture. Vibrant acidity defines the palate from first sip to subtly tannic finish. A pleasant, lighter style to serve chilled with apéritif snacks. 2024-2027–jb

Served chilled as an apéritif with savoury snacks

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE CRU CASE –3 BOTTLES EACH: MOULIN-À-VENT AND JULIÉNAS

$ 38 $ 228

In 2006, a group of Beaujolais diehards and longtime friends decided to invest in their dream. They acquired the 24-hectare Château de Durette estate. While the winery is located in charming RégniéDurette, the vineyards span ten Beaujolais appellations. This allows the team to focus on individual terroir expression: the overall goal is to produce fragrant, elegant wines with a true sense of place.

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE, COLLINE DE MOUILLES, AOP

JULIÉNAS, 2023

Gamay

The Juliénas cru yields sturdy, robust wines with an earthy, floral, fruit forward appeal. The “Colline de Mouilles” slopeside vineyard gives more of a medium-weight expression with lifted freshness and a pleasing chalky texture. The 2023 vintage offers juicy red and dark fruit flavours, intermingled with sweet spice and herbal nuances that linger on the finish. Needs a little time to soften. 2025-2030 –jb

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE, LES GIMARETS, AOP MOULIN-À-VENT, 2023

Gamay

Moulin-à-Vent is often considered the most powerful and ageworthy of all Beaujolais crus. The vineyards dot the hillsides around Romanèche-Thorins, reigned over by the appellation’s iconic windmill. The “Les Gimarets” cuvée is full-bodied with structured, sinewy tannins. The nose is very pretty with its fragrant florality, ripe dark fruit and lingering spice. The 2023 vintage is slightly lighter than previous Moulins tasted from the estate but with no lack of freshness or finesse. 2025-2030 –jb

Lamb tagine with apricots and prunes

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE, LES FOURNELLES, AOP CÔTE DE BROUILLY, 2023

Gamay

The slopes of Mount Brouilly boast stony granitic soils with a distinctive bluish tint. The wines produced here are generally lively and firm with attractive minerallaced fruity aromas. The 2023 “Les Fournelles” cuvée features complex floral, tangy fruit, spiced and wet-stone notes. The palate is seemingly light but offers surprising depth and persistence. Very enjoyable. 2024-2029 –jb

ONE WINEMAKER TWO WINES TWO CRUS ALL EXCEPTIONAL

cherry, blackberry, violet, wet stone

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE, LES CHARMES, AOP MORGON, 2023

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE CRU CASE –3 BOTTLES EACH: MORGON AND CÔTE DE BROUILLY

37 $ 222

Violet, lavender, red currant, dark cherry

currant, dark cherry, clove, earthy

Coq au vin

The “Les Charmes” vineyard lieu-dit is one of the most prestigious sites in Morgon. The higher elevation and sandy, granitic soils here produce powerful yet silky, perfumed wines. This 2023 cuvée is still very youthful; it needs a little time for the fermentary notes to subside, revealing the floral, dark cherry undertones: the bright, concentrated, fine-grained structure holds a lot of promise. 2025-2030 –jb

BEAUJOLAIS

Domaine de la Revol

The Domaine de la Revol is located in southern Beaujolais. The picturesque villages here are dotted with ancient buildings of honey-yellow limestone giving the region its nickname: Les Pierres Dorées (the golden stones). While Gamay is the mainstay of Beaujolais, plantings of Chardonnay are also frequent in the south. Domaine de la Revol produces red and white Beaujolais in a pleasant, easydrinking style.

38 $ 228

The old-vine cuvée from Domaine de la Revol is a pleasant, uncomplicated red wine with tangy acidity and juicy dark fruit flavours. Floral hints on the nose offer a lot of appeal. Finishes on a refreshing note with subtle, rounded tannins. A great choice for pairing with a cheese and charcuterie board. 2024-2028 –jb

Alluring roasted, nutty aromas mingle with ripe orchard fruit, exotic spice and honeyed nuances on the nose. The palate is broad and subtly creamy, balanced by fresh acidity and tangy citrus-dominant flavours. Though not overly persistent, a hint of spice and toasty oak lingers on the finish. Good value. 2024-2027–jb

Chardonnay

This is a more opulent, oaked style of Beaujolais Blanc. Heady aromas of caramelized sugar, spring flowers and ripe orchard fruit leap from the glass. The palate is initially fresh and firm, yet quickly reveals a concentrated, layered core of ripe fruit. A good midway style between rich, sun-baked Chardonnays and their leaner, tauter counterparts from cooler climates. 2024-2029 –jb

4987

MONTANGERON, AOP FLEURIE, 2023

Gamay

This is a firm, structured style of Fleurie. The nose is quite complex, offering an array of ripe dark fruit, subtle florality, pencil shavings and woody nuances. On the palate, lively acidity provides a nice sense of balance to the mediumweight structure and firm tannins. Gains noticeably in intensity with aeration, so sip this red slowly over the course of the evening. 2024-2029 –jb

For sipping slowly over the course of the

DOMAINE MONTANGERON

In 1996, Frederic Montangeron too back the family's estate in different appellations, which is mainly presented by the Fleurie Appellation. Comitted to sustainable viticultre, his philosophy is to respect ancestral methods while bring modernity by his son Corentin, who is now involved in the family business.

Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc

It is not all that common to find traditional-method sparkling wines made from Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc blends. The “Bull Brut” cuvée offers classic Sauvignon Blanc citrus, herbal aromas with underlying toasted leesy hints. The palate is hugely refreshing with vigorous bubbles and a subtly creamy core. Finishes with a faint bitter grapefruit note. Atypical but interesting. 2024-2027–jb

4973 CHÂTEAU PIQUE-SÈGUE AOC MONTRAVEL, 2023

Sauvignons

RECEIVE A

An easy-drinking blend of Sauvignon Blanc with Sauvignon Gris (a clonal mutation of Sauvignon Blanc). Herbal, floral and citrus notes leap from the glass in pleasant succession. The palate is clean, tangy and precise with bracing acidity. A dry, unoaked white wine with lots of vibrancy and charm. 2024-2027

4974

CHÂTEAU PIQUE-SÈGUE AOC BERGERAC, 2022

A fragrant blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with attractive dark fruit, floral and spiced aromas. A very youthful wine with its firm structure, muscular tannins and tangy acidity. Already a very harmonious blend with its overt fruit and well-integrated oak. Drink now or wait a couple of years to allow tannins to soften. 2024-2028 –jb

BERGERAC

Château Pique-Sègue

This ancient estate can trace its history to over 700 years ago. An area of outstanding natural beauty, the vineyards of Château Pique-Sègue cover a territory of rolling hills in the Bergerac region. Located roughly 100 kilometres west of Bordeaux, along the Dordogne River, Bergerac wines are similar in style. PiqueSègue produces elegant whites and bold red wine blends.

WHISKY G. ROZELIEURES

It may come as a surprise to learn that France is the leading European exporter of malted barley and, therefore, has a head start when it comes to producing whisky. Rozelieurs itself is a small village between Nancy and Épinal. The Grallet family have grown cereals in the surrounding fields since the 19th century. Current owners Sabine Grallet and her partner, Christophe Dupic, love whisky so much so that, in 2002, they decided to launch their own mark. Rozelieurs is an exceptionally intricate, ambitious project, as all stages of production –from growing the barley to malting, distillation, maturation and bottling – are carried out in-house. When one considers that only a single Scottish distillery (Springbank) manages to achieve this, it is quite an achievement – and the whisky is well worth tasting.

Pale gold hue. Delicate, floral nose of jasmine, honeysuckle, white pepper and honey. This Highland-style whisky has a soft and approachable palate full of honeyed tones evolving into light, fruity notes of pear and apple, then cereal and smoked malt. The finish is gorgeously rounded with just enough peat character to provide an attractive bite.– mp

Sherry-cask sweetness to the fore on this pronounced nose which offers up tell-tale caramel, toffee and honey notes alongside some creamy yogurt, pear and cereals. The attractive palate is rich in detail with dried fruit, honey, pear, cream and violet alongside the lighter cereal notes, which allow for a contemplative pause before this drives a sweet and energetic finish – mp

4940

Honey, white pepper, jasmine, honeysuckle

Pear, apple juice, cereal, smoky malt

Smoky and harmonious

Porridge, vanilla, yogurt, toffee

Dried fruit, honey, pear, cream, violets

Sweet and energetic

G. ROZELIEURES SINGLE MALT WHISKY CASE1 BOTTLE EACH: FUMÉ, ORIGINE, RARE

This unique whisky is made from a lightly peated malt and matured in a trio of sherry, Cognac and sweet-wine casks. It opens with a pronounced nose of cured meats, seaweed and iodine, developing a huge profile of sweet nectarine, apple custard, white chocolate and porridge oats. The palate is unequivocal and robust offering iodine, tar, seaweed and campfire smoke in healthy dose, plus more porridge and cereal.– mp

Cured meat, iodine, nectarine, apple custard

peat, tar, seaweed, porridge

Maritime and powerful

CHÂTEAU SÉRAPHINE POMEROL

Martin Krajewski means business in Bordeaux: his first vintage at this new Pomerol estate was in 2017, and it is clear that he has already made an impression. Top Bordeaux critic Jane Anson calls Séraphine “a rising star,” while Pomerol writer Neal Martin says it is “one to watch.” High praise indeed. Charlotte Krajewski, Martin’s daughter, provides the genius winemaking.

Merlot, Cabernet Franc

Heady, even decadent, nose with pronounced and complex aromas of blackberry, cooked plum and griottes entwined with camphor, incense, vanilla, cedar and tar. This exquisitely-crafted red has a seemingly implausible amount of new oak that it nevertheless soaks up with aplomb, tucked neatly away in the folds of dense black cherry, plum, cassis, menthol, prune and a lavish slice of fruit cake. A compelling red from the miracle vintage: the combination of tension and ripe, fine tannins will ensure significant ageing potential. 2030-2040– mp

RARE WINES TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

The fruit at Séraphine is picked in tries (harvest runs), destemmed and passed twice through the sorting table. Movement is gravity fed all through the winemaking process, with fermentation taking place in a trio of bespoke tanks, barrels and amphorae. Maturation is in 300-litre French oak barrels. Séraphine is clearly shooting for the top – and hitting the mark.

4971 L'INNOCENCE DE SÉRAPHINE, AOC POMEROL, 2022

$ 123 $ 369

Medium ruby hue. Pretty, filigree nose with well-defined notes of Victoria plum, black cherry, blackberry, sultana and a reserved, oaky charm (violets, cinnamon and clove) from 50% new and 50% second and third-fill barrels. The palate shows up polished and elegant, a deep swirl of black fruit and crunchy griottes woven alongside potent cassis, vanilla, cedar and spice. There is typical Bordelais damp earth adding an intriguing savoury character. The finish is exceptionally long and flavoursome. 2028-2035– mp 14%

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BERGERON, AOC SAUTERNES CASE2 BOTTLES EACH; 2015 AND 2019

The case of two vintages of the same wine that show slightly different expressions of the noble rot, as well as an interesting case study, so to speak, about the development and the ageing trajectory of the wines that, given the nature of Sauternes, may have started at a slightly different points.

COLLECTOR’S CORNER

RARE WINES TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

Well inland along the Garonne River, the unique conditions in Sauternes allow for the feared grey rot to develop into a Noble rot, and the grapes –Sémillon, Sauvignon and Muscadelle – grow into shrivelled parodies of their healthy selves, yet yielding a wonderful, sweet elixir. The harvest requires several passes: up to a dozen depending on the property and vintage, and the resulting sweet wine spends months to years in barrels, often with a portion of new oak adding further layers to the finished product. Given the risk, loss of volume, labour and time, these wines are not cheap, but they are still incredible values, and though the tides maybe going against sweet wines today, take every opportunity to enjoy these special potions as they are surprisingly adept in pairing even with savoury courses.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BERGERON, AOC SAUTERNES, 2015

Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc

Harvested in four to six passes, the wine was barrel fermented and aged for 18 months in 50% new oak. 80:18:2 blend. A deep golden lemon-yellow robe here. The nose features medium-intensity aromas of linden honey, poached pear, oil, citrus, cream, vanilla, hazelnuts, bay leaf and cardamom. The palate is sweet, balanced by a medium acidity with a high extract, a soft texture, a full body and impressive length and persistence of aloe, linden honey, poached pear, oil, candied lemon, nuts, vanilla and spice flavours mirroring the nose, wrapping with a long finish. 2024-2032–ir

honey,

Aloe, linden honey, poached pear, oil, candied

Pan-seared foie gras with citrus and quince paste sauce

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BERGERON, AOC SAUTERNES, 2019

Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc

The wine has a deep golden lemon-yellow color and a medium-intensity nose with golden gooseberry preserve, cassis, oil, nuts, vanilla and savoury notes – liverwurst and chives, leaning more towards raisinated than botrytis-affected profile. The palate has a medium acidity nicely offsetting its sweetness, a medium-plus extract, a softplus texture, a medium-plus to full body and nice length and fruit intensity with flavours of poached pear, gooseberry preserve, vanilla, citrus oil and hazelnut paste, and a long finish. 2024-2028 –ir

pear, gooseberry

A less sweet hazelnut crème brûlée

The Bottle Shop

Wines exclusively offered online

EARL MILLION ROUSSEAU, JACQUÈRE

CRU JONGIEUX, AOP SAVOIE, 2023

Jacquère

EARL MILLION ROUSSEAU, ROUSSETTE DE SAVOIE AOP SAVOIE, 2022

Altesse 4988

EARL MILLION ROUSSEAU

WHITE MIXED CASE CASE –3 BOTTLES EACH: JACQUÈRE

CRU JONGIEUX AND DE SAVOIE

$ WEB $ WEB

From vines of 30 years average age, this Savoie specialty was fermented with ambient yeast and without malolactic conversion. A platinum pale yellow color in the glass. A refreshing, sorbet-like attack of medium-intensity aromas of lees, quince, starfruit and white currant on the nose. The theme continues on the dry palate of medium acidity, extract and body, with a soft texture and a nice length, with the wellenunciated replays of starfruit and quince along with a grapefruit pith fading into a medium finish. 2024-2026 – ir

Another local specialty from vines on average 45 years old with slow cool ferment and no malolactic conversion. The wine has a pale lemon-yellow hue and pretty, attractive, medium-intensity aromas of wild strawberries and white raspberries with lees/oily notes. The palate is dry, has a rounder shy-of-medium acidity, a mediumplus extract, a soft-plus texture and a medium-plus body with a lovely length and a pronounced simple but attractive fruit that follows the nose with berries, lees/oily tones and grapefruit bitterness to a medium-plus finish. 2024-2026 – ir

Melted raclette with new potatoes, pickled pearl onions and cornichon

EARL MILLION ROUSSEAU, GAMAY DE SAVOIE, CRU JONGIEUX, AOP SAVOIE, 2022

Gamay

From the vines with average age of 30 years. An opaque, deep ruby red robe here. A little shy on the nose with notes of tobacco and cold ash, cured meat, black olive tapenade, chokeberry and a minerally element. Dry and medium-framed on the palate – acidity, extract, fine textured-tannins and body. It has nice length and intensity, if a bit simple, with black sour plum reduction, minerally and sanguine notes and a medium finish. 2024-2026 – ir

Black sour plum reduction, minerally, sanguine

Smoked salmon pâté with fresh dill

EARL MILLION ROUSSEAU, MONDEUSE DE SAVOIE, AOP SAVOIE, 2022

Mondeuse

A unique-to-Savoie red grape from 30-yearold vines on average. It shows a deep ruby red color and a medium-intensity aromatic set with red plum, red cherry, cola and a hint of spice. The palate is dry and has a medium acidity, a medium extract, medium fine medium-textured tannins and a medium body, with lovely length and persistence of sour cherry, red plum, nuts and a bit tarry/ smoky flavours all making an appearance ahead of a medium-plus finish. 2024-2026 – ir

12%

4989

Sour cherry, red plum, walnut, tar and smoke

Tartiflette Savoyarde with Reblochon cheese, potatoes, onions and bacon

EARL MILLION ROUSSEAU

GAMAY DE SAVOIE, CRU JONGIEUX AND MONDEUSE DE SAVOIE CASE - 3 BOTTLES EACH:

$ WEB $ WEB

4982 CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE, EXCEPTION, AOP RÉGNIÉ, 2023

Gamay $ WEB $ WEB

As glorious as Beaujolais, this wine is richly flavoured with blackberries, plums, liquorice, crushed strawberries, cranberries and cherries. The fruit is ripe rather than stewed and the wine is wonderfully distinctive. Crisp acidity balances the ripe red and black fruit, while supple tannins make this a very ver-satile wine. Notes of black cherry, strawberry, blackberry and mulberry enliven the finish. 2025-2026 – mp

Meet Markus Molitor, “Mr. 300 Points”

Germany’s most awarded winemaker

In 2015, three of his wines from the 2013 vintage received a rating of 100 points from The Wine Advocate; thus his nickname, “Mr. 300 points” (Herr 300 Punkte in German). We are pleased to announce that Opimian has secured a small allocation of these outstanding wines from this brilliant winemaker. Don’t miss this opportunity to get your hands on these top-scoring wines, as they usually sell out in record time!

Only at Opimian.ca beginning February 27.

LIMITED TIME – LIMITED QUANTITIES – WEB ONLY