C310-QC

EDITORIAL

The Best of Both Worlds - Old & New

By Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Opimian Managing Directors

This one is always fun for us to put together each year. The dichotomy of the two worlds of wine gives us so much to talk about and offer. In this issue, you will find information and education - The State of Your Club, Up-tothe-Minute Newsletter, the Masterpiece, an Old World/New World article, and a tribute to one of our favourite negotiants Bernard and Blandine Perrin. Lots of advice on what to order - Opimian Suggests, Coups de Coeurs, and Cellar Up! Last and certainly not least, a plethora of exclusive, Master of Wine selected wines for you to order.

Your selection of Burgundy (get used to it being referred to as BourgogneFrance has passed a new law) remains second to none. From down under, back are Hastwell & Lightfoot, Giles Cooke MW's very own Thistledown Wines, Bec Hardy and Geoff Hardy, the Glover Family, and Chapman Grove. If you didn't have a chance to try last year's newcomer Te Mata, make sure to do so this year. Te Mata is New Zealand's oldest winery, located on the North island and comes from a region famous for red wines. These world-class wines from one of New Zealand's most famous estates also have the fun distinction to be the only new world winery whose wines have been included more than once on the Master of Wine tasting exam as perfectly made new world wines.

New wines are the new line: Sfera by Geoff Hardy, McHenry from Chapman Grove, and The Coterie from Glover. We've also added a Lot Number so that you can order all of the wines in Cellar Up! with a single click.

By all accounts, you the Members, are loving the variety, visual appeal, and depth of information in the Cellar. You can count on that to continue through this exciting Cellar season. Cheers to all!

Greg & Michael

MANAGING DIRECTOR

MICHAEL LUTZMANN

Michael has level 3 training from WSET. Before discovering more about wine through training, he only drank heavy reds. While those are still favourites, his palate pleasers now include the full spectrum with dessert/ fortified wines edging toward the top of his list. The expanded selection of Beaujolais has him looking to add fantastic lighter reds to his collection.

MANAGING DIRECTOR

GREG RINEHART

Greg's wine style gravitates towards less serious styled rosés and whites. He believes that all events should start with a glass of bubbly! However, when done right, there is no better red grape for producing lighterbodied wines of elegance and complexity than Pinot Noir.

OPIMIAN SUGGESTS

OUR PICKS FOR THIS CELLAR

GREG'S PICKS

TE MATA ESTATE BULLNOSE SYRAH, HAWKE'S BAY, 2020, LOT 4607, P50

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUXFERRAND POMMARD, AOP, 2022, LOT 4662, P48

MICHAEL'S PICKS

MCHENRY HOHNEN HAZEL'S VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MARGARET RIVER, 2016, LOT 4645, P53

PART OF MIXED CASE, LOT 4636, P35

YOUR MASTERS OF WINE FOR THIS CELLAR

Jacky Blisson MW is an independent wine educator, writer, and consultant with over two decades of experience in all facets of the global wine trade. She is the first Master of Wine in Québec and one of only ten across Canada.

Ordering Made Easy

1. SELECT YOUR WINES

Let yourself be inspired by Opimian’s Masters of Wine. Our custom chart features a list of symbols to help guide your selection. Still unsure which wines to order? Contact us!

2. PLACE YOUR ORDER

There are three ways to order. The last day to order for each Cellar Offering can be found listed on the cover. No orders will be processed after this time.

3. LET US HANDLE THE REST

The wines featured on this Cellar Offering are still at the producers’ wineries when you order them, so it is normal that the process takes a bit of time and effort on our side.

Release dates are dependent upon actual arrival dates, distance from port of entry to liquor board and processing time required by each liquor board.

Once the wine arrives at your local liquor store or distribution centre, you will receive a Pick-up Notice with the specified date (the Release Date) and your pick-up location.

Michael Palij MW Michael Palij is an adventurer, entrpreneur, and the 3rd Canadian Master of Wine. Over the years, he has introduced Opimian to some truly special producers such as Cabutto,

50 years down50 to go!

So here we are. Year 51 of the Opimian Wine Club de Vin (aka The Opimian Society). So much has changed. So much has remained the same. We are still a group of wine lovers who pool our resources together to bring the best wines in the world to Canada. We are still a not-for-profit that puts all of its energy and people into building relationships with independent winemakers in every major wine region in the world. Better yet, Opimian brings us all together around the joy of wine to experience it in a myriad of ways - travel, events, tastings, education, and connection.

Yet, at the same time, so much has changed. In the last 50 years, the wine industry (yes, it has become an industry) has become so much more global. Where Canada was once a new and emerging market for global wines, it has matured and must compete with newer markets like China. This evolving landscape resulted in the creation of a new Strategic Plan and we now find ourselves approaching year three of that five-year Plan. Our company mission is “To exclusively connect our members to unique wines, producers, services and experiences around the world, bolstering education as well as the enjoyment and discovery of wine.”

The insight it provided to focus on four pillars is no less relevant than it was in the past two years. We will continue to rely on the expertise of Masters of Wine to help us find remarkable wines and curate them so that Opimian Members have world-class quality and value. We will continue to add spirits from around the world to satisfy the growing trend toward cocktails and mixed drinks. We are strengthening our educational component, providing you with ways to increase your knowledge and enjoyment of wine and spirits.

Lastly, we now have full-time resources dedicated to relaunching robust events and travel within Canada and internationally that lets you explore the joy of wine through experience.

Masters of Wine

We have expanded our network of Canadian MWs to include three key experts - Michael Palij MW, Jacky Blisson MW, and Igor Ryjenkov MW - and myriad other global MWs who write articles and consult with us.

Education

We have already held two classes of Level 1 Wines & Spirits from wine education's world leader Wine & Spirits Educational Trust (WSET) with more to come. We'll also offer WSET2 in the very near future. Coupled with our new partnership with Riedel Glassware, we have begun offering tasting workshops that enhance your enjoyment through education.

Spirits

Late last year, we launched another Opimian firstHarris Beach Canadian Whisky and Opimian's first Whisky Club. Stayed tuned for what's next, as we intend to soon launch a new line of gin products inspired by the diversity of Canada.

Events & Travel

You will already have noticed that we are getting back on track post-COVID with events and travel. You can look forward to that continuing. Interest in both tasting events and winecentric travel has never been stronger. We don't want to disappoint.

C310 is the beginning of another season of improvement and growth for Opimian. Watch for a newly updated and improved website that is being launched this year. It will make ordering and tracking your wine so much easier.

MEMBER BENEFITS

We are always looking for ways to make your Opimian Membership more valuable than having exclusive access to world-class, magnificent wines. Here are just a few of the benefits of Membership.

Jagged Ridge Wine Racks

Save 10% on wine racks @ Amazon - use code Opimian10 tinyurl.com/JRRacks

Blue Grouse Cellars

5% off wine cabinets, cooling units, glassware & Accessoriesuse code Opim23 www.bluegrouseshop.com

Canadian Association of Retired Persons (CARP) & Zoomer Magazine

Complimentary year of Membership - One year of Zoomer for $19.95

Go to shop.carp.ca/ CCO22MWCQ

Le Maitre D Gourmet Food

Exclusive access & special pricing. Packages designed to compliment your Opimian wines. www.lemaitred.com

International Wine & Food Society

• The IW&FS of Toronto arranges monthly events combining wine and food which include dinners and tastings; all designed to be innovative, educational, enjoyable and of high quality.

• Opimian members have special access to IWFS events

GETTING TO KNOW THE STAFF

Kassandra Liezert Head of Logistics and Member Service

Kassandra comes to Opimian with 5+ years experience in the alcohol industry. She joined the team in 2022 as the Logistics Manager, evolving to Head of Member Service and Logistics. The most rewarding part of her job is when members can receive their long-awaited wines.

OPIMIAN ON SOCIAL MEDIA

OPIMIAN EVENTS

IN-PERSON EVENTS

New Opimian Distributor Meet & Greet

Friday, November 3, 2023

Metro Liquor Saskatchewan Unit 20-315 Herold Rd, Saskatoon

Come out to see the new pickup point

Halifax International Wine Festival

Saturday, December 2, 2023

Pavilion 22, Halifax Seaport Opimian will have a booth. Come and visit!

VIRTUAL

The Masters Case Tasting C300

(for subscribers only) Bec Hardy Wines

Thursday, November 2, 2023, 7 pm ET with Jacky Blisson MW & winemaker Bec Hardy

If you haven't already, make sure to check out and follow our pages/groups on Facebook, Instagram, and LinkedIn

Facebook page - https://www.facebook.com/OpimianWineClubdeVin

Facebook group (moderated) - https://www.facebook.com/groups/151105651580630

Instagram page - https://www.instagram.com/stories/

OPIMIAN TRAVEL

February, 2024

South America

Nine nights, ten days in a small group. We'll visit Opimian wineries in Chile and Argentina.

April, 2024

Spain

Visit Spain in the spring along with other Opimian wine lovers. Lots of great food and wine, culture and relaxation.

June, 2024

Niagara, Canada

Spend a luxurious long weekend in Canada's foremost wine region. The best of accommodation, dining and transportation.

September, 2024

California, USA

Experience the lush harvest season in worldfamous Sonoma and Napa Valleys. Tour and learn. Sip and savour.

CANADIAN CORNER

FIND AN EVEN BIGGER CANADIAN SELECTION ONLINE! WWW.OPIMIAN.CA

CLOUDSLEY CELLARS HOMESTEAD VINEYARD PINOT NOIR, VQA TWENTY MILE BENCH, 2019

The 2019 Cloudsley Cellars Homestead Vineyard Pinot Noir is a singlevineyard wine crafted from fruit grown in Niagara’s Twenty Mile Bench appellation. This is a Burgundianstyle Pinot with an evolving bouquet of cherry, leather, balsamic and cured meat. Upon the first sip, the palate expresses notes of cherry, strawberry and raspberry framed with fine grained tannin. An excellent match for beef carpaccio. 2024-2025– lw

1055 HARRIS BEACH RYE 51 CANADIAN WHISKY

This rye-forward whisky is loaded with personality. The nose is packed with orange zest, vanilla, toasted coconut, mince pie and crème caramel aromas. The initial sip opens with layers of grilled orange, apricot, dates and caramel before it transitions into a long spicy finish. Refined and polished, Beach’s signature smooth mouthfeel makes it easy to enjoy Rye 51 straight; however, its versatile style makes it perfect for classic cocktails such as the Old Fashioned.– lw

4557 MELDVILLE PINOT NOIR, VQA NIAGARA PENINSULA, 2021

Pinot

Noir

Fermented with ambient yeasts, raised in neutral oak and minimally filtered, it shows a typical medium ruby color. On the nose, it opens with medium-plus intensity aromas of Bing and sour cherries and raspberry with a touch of evergreens and beetroot. It displays a mid-framed structure – extract and body, with a lifted acidity. It is dry with fine supple tannins’ support and a nice length and fruit intensity with cherry, fresh moss and raspberry, and a medium finish. 2024-2026–ir

Bing and sour cherries, raspberry, with a touch of

Cherry, fresh moss and raspberry

Chicken liver pâté with brandy, capers and thyme

3678 PEARL MORISSETTE NIAGARA VINEYARDS COUP DE CŒUR, VQA LINCOLN LAKESHORE, 2021

The 2021 Pearl Morissette Coup de Cœur captures the essence of the Niagara region in a glass. It is a notably aromatic example of Chardonnay made from vines grown in the red clay soils of the 24-hectare Redfoot vineyard. The property, located in the Lincoln Lakeshore viticultural area, is heavily influenced by the moderating effect of Lake Ontario. Here, the mild climate and the long growing season allow the grapes time to slowly ripen while they develop maximum flavour. Elegant from the first aromas through to the extended finish, this wine offers an expressive bouquet of honeydew melon, peach, apple and lemon scents that are reinforced on the palate. Elevage in 10% new oak demi-muid and 90% foudre, in addition to eight months spent on lees, adds depth and texture to the wine. Fresh acidity perfectly supports the fruit creating a seamless balance. This wine is immediately delightful but also has the capacity to evolve in cellar. The best part? Opimian Members now have exclusive access to this small-lot Canadian gem. It is not even available at the winery! 2023-2028– lw

11.5%

Honeydew melon, peach, apple, lemon

Honeydew melon, peach, apple, lemon, [2.00]

Salmon cakes with lemon aioli

MASTER PIECE

Australia’s Golden Period

By Michael Palij MW

Shiraz may be the putative calling card of Australian wine production but – like Kiwi Sauvignon – what was once a genuinely unique style has been shambolically besmirched by the marketing departments of a few volume-led conglomerates. Do we need another ‘critter label’ when they could pin their colours to the mast and market it as a cash cow. The brooding machismo of high alcohol, high extract, no acidity and a dollop of residual sugar was a talisman for a generation of extrovert, one-dimensional fruit bombs. Like Liebfraumilch and Lambrusco, many were marred by the tarry Shiraz brush.

A couple of steps behind this jammy mask, however, there is considerably more nuance. But you need to be diligent in your search and leave ‘key price points’ forever behind you. Shiraz enjoys the Ozzie sunbed, as does Grenache, and Australia is vast: it does have pockets of cool climate viticulture and unirrigated vines. Look at Grange and Hill of Grace: Australians have always made great wine, although not, one concedes, in great quantities. Exports appeared rather late in the day: seabound volume was around eight million litres in 1981, which has since increased one hundred-fold[1]. Admittedly that charge was led by a herd of creatures and features but – following at a discreet distance – is a small pod of artisans crafting wines that reflect their terroir in a style that is both authentically Australian and world-beating.

A word about freshness. Margaret River is a leading cool-climate region, often compared to Bordeaux. The stats, however, do not quite add up. Margaret River is eleven latitudinal degrees closer to the equator, with an average temperature of 20.9°C during the growing season, and rainfall of 202mm. Bordeaux, by comparison, logs 18°C and 400mm respectively[2]. What bridges the gap? Science, in short. In 1978, Dr Tony Jordan and Brian Croser established cutting-edge anaerobic winemaking techniques at their Oenotec consultancy in South Australia. As Jamie Goode writes: “By excluding oxygen from the winemaking process, and using stainless steel and refrigeration, [Jordan and Croser] taught winemakers to produce clean, fruit-forward and delicious wines, even in warm climate[3].” This, then, is the genesis of the fresh, reductive style that has influenced McHenry Hohnen, Geoff Hardy, and many others.

In addition to oaky and alcoholic ogres, the 1990s saw a global preference for barriquedriven wines that managed to both obfuscate the fruit and cement Australia’s reputation for charmless monoliths. But what winemaking country hasn’t looked back in shame at one point or another.

Piat d’Or anyone? Baby Duck? Thankfully, both craft and perception are changing and the little guys are increasingly getting the shelf space they deserve in export markets. China, in particular, is worth mentioning: China was the number one destination for Australian wine until 2021, accounting for a share of bottled exports greater than the US, UK, and Canada combined[4]. A prickly trade war has, however, reduced this previously profitable flow to a weedy trickle. Producers are working strenuously to establish new markets, plugging a shortfall estimated at AUD 1 billion. One might advance that survival of the fittest has its perks: wines from Australia accounted for a fifth of those awarded ‘Best in Show’ at the 2023 Decanter World Wine Awards[5]. Margaret River was declared the pick of the bunch. The dominance of Shiraz as poster boy is being steadily eroded by the success of other varieties, including Grenache, Cabernet and a clutch of truly cult Pinots and Chardonnays. As we become more informed, the Ozzies become more adept at creating wines of undeniable interest.

Are we seeing a Golden Age for Australian wine? I believe so. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate now employs a dedicated Australian Reviewer, in Erin Larkin. New producers are buying vineyards and establishing fledgling wineries. Winemakers continue to gain experience abroad and port it back Down Under. Geoff Hardy has consulted widely in Italy and France, although in truth, his stomping ground in the Adelaide Hills is no backwater. Pivoted between Barossa to the north and McLaren Vale to the south, Adelaide Hills is a veritable low-key champion that became central to the natural wine movement of the 2010s. The region’s profile is about to go stratospheric: Halliday Wine Companion 2024 has awarded ‘Shiraz of the Year’ to – you guessed it, – an Adelaide Hills producer. Would there a better advert for Adelaide Hills Shiraz?

Increasingly, we are seeing cool climate wines realised not as quirky sidelines, but as central pillars to Australia’s DNA. The synergy beckons between these and the more traditional styles. If this is not a Golden Age, it is a timely revolution. Global warming makes for a rethink of what Australia can, and cannot, produce. In a few decades, Shiraz will be the reserve of today’s cool climate regions; Sangiovese, Grenache, Nebbiolo and other Mediterranean varieties will fill the warmer zones. Perhaps more gratifyingly, we will see a reclamation of Australian wine’s identity; at the very least the nation will reaffirm its ability to compete at all price points and in all styles. Critter labels and cash cows? Seems like all the pigeonholes are empty these days.

[1] https://www.wineaustralia.com/whats-happening/stories-of-australian-wine/ august-2017/the-evolution-of-australian-wine

[2] https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/bordeaux-2022-weather-and-crop-report

[3] https://www.wineaustralia.com/whats-happening/stories-of-australian-wine/ august-2017/the-evolution-of-australian-wine

[4] Byvalue. file:///C:/Users/DavidBurlton/Downloads/AgEconPlus-GillespieEconomic-Contribution-Wine-Report-2019..pdf

[5] Australia dominates Decanter World Wine Awards as producers celebrate 'golden period' of local winemaking - ABC News

COUPS DE COEUR

THIS CELLAR'S HIGHEST SCORING WINES BY OUR MASTERS OF WINE

EVERYDAY DRINKING

NEW ZEALAND

The north and south islands of New Zealand have been making wine on a commercial scale for just over 100 years, making this a very new New World region. The high calibre of wines that have emerged in such a short time span is nothing short of remarkable. Sauvignon Blanc is the star grape, notably in powerhouse wine region Marlborough. However, New Zealand’s temperate maritime climate allows a wide range of other varieties to flourish, including many aromatic white grapes, Merlot-led blends and Pinot Noir. New Zealand was the first wine country to establish a national sustainability programme: today, 96% of the country’s vineyard area is certified sustainable.

Glover Family Vineyards gained global admirers with the international launch of their Zephyr line of wines in 2007. The family’s winemaking vision, centred around estate-owned vines and single vineyard bottlings, resonated with wine lovers. Over time, additional wine ranges like Massey Dacta sprang up. In 2022, a merger was announced between the Glover Family and The Coterie. Under The Coterie name, Ben Glover and partner Rhyan Wardman continue to innovate, focusing on collaborative, small-batch, organic winemaking in the Marlborough region. Beloved wine ranges Massey Dacta and Zephyr remain at the heart of The Coterie’s production.

4600 MASSEY DACTA SAUVIGNON BLANC, MARLBOROUGH, 2023

The Glover children grew up on a farm in rural New Zealand, and an enduring image from this bucolic upbringing was their big red Massey Ferguson Tractor. This was such a mouthful that the kids started calling it “Massey Dacta,” and the name stuck. The 2023 Massey Dacta Sauvignon Blanc is crisp, light bodied and dry with zingy flavours of green citrus fruit and fresh-cut herbs. A smooth, unoaked, hugely refreshing white wine perfect for presupper sipping. 2024-2027–jb

12.5%

As a pre-supper aperitif

A full-bodied, polished style of Chardonnay showing seamless integration of its subtle oak spice flavours. Attractive flinty nuances mingle with ripe stone fruit and citrus on the nose. The palate has good tension, a creamy, rounded mid palate and lingering salinity on the finish. Drinking well now with good moderate-term ageing potential. 2024-2029–jb

Such a vivid, bright nose brimming with red fruits and underlying floral, tea-leaf aromas. The palate is equally vibrant with its tangy acidity and firm, youthful structure. The same lifted red fruit notes linger on the finish with hints of baking spice adding dimension. Serve slightly chilled and let the wine breathe in the glass for maximum enjoyment. 2024-2029–jb

NEW WORLD VS OLD WORLD

New Zealand vs Burgundy

By Michael Lutzmann

The comparison between the New World and the Old World in the context of wine production is a captivating exploration of tradition versus innovation, heritage versus experimentation. New Zealand and Burgundy, two renowned wine regions, epitomize this intriguing duality.

Burgundy, nestled in the heart of France, represents the quintessential Old World wine region. Its history dates back centuries, with vineyards that have been cultivated by generations, each contributing to the region's intricate tapestry of terroir. Burgundy is famed for its dedication to specific grape varieties, primarily Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and its emphasis on the concept of terroir – the unique interaction between soil, climate, and vine that shapes a wine's character. This tradition is reflected in its complex classification system, dividing vineyards into meticulously defined appellations, such as Grand Cru and Premier Cru. The wines from Burgundy are often celebrated for their elegance, subtlety, and ability to express the nuances of the land.

Contrasting this, New Zealand stands as a prime example of the New World approach to winemaking. Having burst onto the global wine scene relatively

recently, New Zealand has shaken up the industry with its innovative techniques and fresh perspectives. The country's diverse climates and landscapes have led to experimentation with various grape varieties and styles, yielding distinct flavors that reflect the unique characteristics of each region. Sauvignon Blanc, particularly from Marlborough, has become an iconic expression of New Zealand's approach, featuring vibrant fruitiness and intense aromatics. The New World's exploration of modern winemaking practices, coupled with a willingness to embrace change, has propelled New Zealand wines to international recognition.

In the New Zealand vs. Burgundy debate, it's not so much a matter of superiority, but rather a reflection of the dynamic evolution of the wine industry. Burgundy preserves its deep-rooted history, with an unwavering commitment to tradition and a reverence for its heritage. On the other

hand, New Zealand embodies a spirit of innovation, pushing boundaries and forging new paths in pursuit of excellence.

As you continue to explore the world of wine, the choice between New World and Old World often boils down to personal preference. Some seek the familiarity and time-honored craftsmanship of Old World wines, while others gravitate towards the bold flavors and daring experimentation of the New World. Ultimately, the New Zealand vs. Burgundy debate encapsulates the very essence of what makes wine so fascinating – its ability to encapsulate time, place, and human creativity in a single, exquisite sip. Whether one's palate leans towards the venerable charm of Burgundy or the daring allure of New Zealand, both regions contribute to the global mosaic of wine, each telling a unique story that captivates oenophiles around the world. Or as some of us do, choose both!

4604 TE MATA ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC, HAWKE'S BAY, 2023

NEW ZEALAND

Te Mata Estate

HAWKE’S BAY

A really vivacious Sauvignon Blanc with all the hallmarks of its origin. Intense grassy, herbal aromas are nicely balanced by pure lemon and gooseberry notes making for a very inviting nose. The palate is mouthwateringly crisp with a sleek frame rounding out to a broader, more rounded core. Richer notes of sweet lemon mix with tart citrus on the long, dry finish. 2024-2027–jb

Te Mata Estate sits comfortably among the top-ranking wine producers of New Zealand: it’s also the country’s oldest commercial winery with the estate established by Bernard Chambers in 1896. Several years earlier, Chambers had convinced his father to allow him to plant several vineyards on the family’s vast landholdings in the Havelock North subregion of Hawke’s Bay. This hilly area, overlooking the bay, proved an ideal location for grape cultivation. With its temperate climate and abundant sunshine, it remains a prized vineyard area for red wine varieties. Over the years, the estate has changed hands but always remained a family-run concern. Since 1974, Te Mata Estate has been stewarded by the Buck and Morris families. They are credited with bringing the wines into the modern era – and drawing the attention of esteemed global critics. The Wine Advocate deemed the estate “New Zealand’s greatest winery,” while Jancis Robinson considers it “a national treasure.” Te Mata Estate was one of the first vineyard owners to obtain the Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand certification in the 1990s and has worked consistently since then to keep building on its commitments. Today, the estate exemplifies a very pure expression of New World winemaking with its top-quality range of red blends, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and more.

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc

A very stylish, judiciously oaked blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc: well-defined floral, dark fruit and oakderived aromas are in perfect proportion. The same balance is evident on the palate with fresh acidity and vivid flavours to counter the firm, full-bodied palate. Allow a little resting time in cellar to allow the tannins to soften ever so slightly. 2025-2032–jb

The reputation of Syrah from Hawke’s Bay has been rising steadily in recent years with a distinctive savoury style emerging. The Te Mata Estate cuvée is a fine example: heady notes of exotic spice, sweet dark fruit and subtle cedar nuances repeat on the brisk, full-bodied palate. Finishes dry with bold yet quite smooth tannins and lingering savoury nuances. 2024-2029–jb

AUSTRALIA

The fashion police have worked assiduously to keep the concept of Australian freshness in check but have – mercifully – failed. Famous for being big, bold, oaky and alcoholic, Aus was long seen as a one-trick pony. Sadly, one cannot overlook the thorny issue of climate change: we know, through research at the University of Tasmania, that signature varieties like Shiraz may well be untenable by 2070. So, are the Aussies resting on their full-bodied laurels? Anything but: this is a vast landscape with considerable climatic diversity and a can-do attitude that seldom spares a thought for how things were done before. Flying winemakers, who brought crispness to the Dordogne’s often mercurial wines in the 1980s, have been challenging misconceptions and introducing new varietals for decades. If freshness is your game, it can certainly be found in Australia – along with some of the world’s best winemakers.

4608

THISTLEDOWN CUNNING PLAN

SHIRAZ, MCLAREN VALE, 2022

Shiraz

I had high hopes for this purple-hued monster, and it did not disappoint delivering a nose bursting aroma with crushed blackberry, black cherry, bay leaf and wood smoke. Saturated with black fruit on the full-bodied palate, there is a vein of red fruit, including strawberry and raspberry, that adds compelling complexity. This is still a baby, but deft handling of the oak combined with high levels of acidity and tannin suggest it will develop seductively over the next decade. 2024-2034 – mp

Crushed blackberry, black cherry, raspberry, bay leaf

Tempeh chili with black beans and roasted shallots

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

THISTLEDOWN

Two Masters of Wine – plus a winemaker with a CV referencing Dujac and Grosset – make for a pretty compelling team: Giles Cooke, MW and Fergal Tynan, MW are the stars of this Australian negotiant model championing South Australia’s Grenache. Their favourite haunts, Blewitt Springs and Clarendon, are the source of world-class Grenache. Cooling sea breezes, decomposed granitic soils and higher altitudes create well-nigh perfect conditions for this grape, resulting in wines with perfectly integrated alcohol and sublime freshness. (As an aside, Giles and Fergal actually met in a bar the night before they began their first MW course in 1998. Good job they passed!)

& WILDER THE

Medium lemon hue and a recognizably “made” nose with notes of vanilla, toffee, pineapple and banana. Members looking for a classic hit of old-school Chardonnay will love the buttery character and obvious tropical fruit notes of this wine. It is all here – larger than life – like a high school disco. 2024-2026 – mp 4609

4610

WILD & WILDER THE WILD ONES SHIRAZ, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2022

Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon

Medium ruby. Warm notes of blackcurrant jam stewed plum and sandalwood on the nose. The medium-bodied palate is gracefully and surprisingly developed, offering plum jam, cooked blackberry, sandalwood and soft, ripe tannins. The oak plays a supporting role to the developed fruit core that becomes pleasingly tannic on the finish. Drink now.– mp

Cabernet Sauvignon

A deep ruby, straight-up Cabernet Sauvignon with a moreish nose of cassis, vanilla, menthol and cherry. There is generous black fruit and gorgeous spicy overtones on the palate, but it is definitely not trying too hard. This is an early-drinking style that’s happy in its own skin with accessible, easy-going tannins and bright acidity. 2024-2026 – mp

Medium ruby hue. Boisterously juicy nose of blackberry, raspberry, white pepper and baking spice. The palate begins with a harmonious assault of ripe, soft red fruit, medium acidity, tannin and a commendable finish that also includes cherry cola and black cherry. There is more than enough in this to keep any bargain hunter satisfied! Drink now.– mp 4611 WILD & WILDER THE

4612

WILD & WILDER THE UNFORGETTABLE GRENACHE, SHIRAZ, MATARO, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2022

Grenache, Shiraz, Mataro

4614

4613

GORGEOUS GRENACHE, OLD VINE SMALL BATCH HANDMADE NO. 1, RIVERLAND, 2022

Grenache

Light purple in colour with a nose of cooked redcurrants, raspberry jam, white pepper, and rose petal. Quaffable and fruity, this delivers a simple and effective hit with warm red fruit the order of the day. Tannins are well integrated and the finish surprisingly compelling. Drink now.– mp

14.5%

THISTLEDOWN THE VAGABOND OLD VINE GRENACHE, BLEWITT SPRINGS, MCLAREN VALE, 2022

Grenache $ 65 $ 390

Light purple in colour with a delectable nose of raspberry jam, cherry compote, wild strawberry, white pepper and even a hint of Pinot-esque beetroot. Wonderfully comforting for a cold winter's day, this has masses of alcohol wrapped up in silky tannins and goes down like a red-fruit explosion. Cinnamon and autumn spices add to the long and accomplished finish. Impossible to resist. 2024-2028 – mp

Roasted cherry, chickpea and barley salad 14.5%

Asian veg and greens

AUSTRALIA

Hastwell & Lightfoot

MCLAREN VALE

Hastwell & Lightfoot is a 16-hectare family-owned estate in operation for over 30 years in South Australia’s McLaren Vale region. The second generation of the Hastwell clan is now at the helm and making small batches of premium wine from traditional varieties like Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon but also new plantings of Mediterranean varieties like Italian Fiano and Spanish Garnacha and Tempranillo.

HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT PICKER'S CHOICE, MCLAREN VALE, 2022

The Picker’s Choice blend is slightly different each vintage. In 2022, the classic McLaren Vale grapes Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon dominate, with a splash of Barbera thrown in for seasoning. The result is a perfumed red wine with baked blue and dark fruit aromas. In contrast, the palate boasts fresh, tangy fruit flavours, crisp acidity and a bold, tightly knit structure. 2024-2030 –jb 4616

Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Barbera

$ 33 $ 198

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HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MCLAREN VALE, 2020

Cabernet Sauvignon

The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon shows both fresh and macerated dark fruit notes with savoury, spicy undertones. The palate is weighty and moderately firm with a fleshy core tapering to muscular tannins. Brisk acidity brings a refreshing quality that lifts and lengthens the wine. Hints of spice, from ageing in both French and American oak, linger on the finish. 2024-2027–jb

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HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT BARBERA, MCLAREN VALE, 2022

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HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT SANDS OF TIME SHIRAZ, MCLAREN VALE, 2021

A very lively, refreshing interpretation of the Piedmont grape Barbera. The nose boasts an array of crushed and baked fruit, ranging from red berries to cassis. The palate is brisk and very tangy with a full-bodied, firm structure. Overall, a pleasant, wellbalanced red wine with fine-grained tannins. 2024-2027 –jb

The 2021 Sands of Time Shiraz boasts a complex nose with its fragrant dark fruit aromas, well integrated cedar, black pepper and minty nuances. The palate is bold and refreshing with the same intensity of dark fruit mingled with hints of sweet tobacco. Fresh and slightly chalky in texture on the finish. 2024-2027–jb

BEC HARDY WINES

Bec Hardy is the sixth generation of Australia’s iconic Hardy family of vintners. Their winemaking history dates to the 1850 arrival of British settler Thomas Hardy. Since going out on her own in 2015, Bec Hardy has established a thriving boutique winery. Today, the estate makes a wide range of excellent wines from Bec’s home base in McLaren Vale and across South Australia.

A smooth, easy-drinking sparkling wine blending Chenin Blanc with Pinot Noir and Colombard. The nose is hugely inviting with its floral, ripe fruit and pâtisserie hints. On the palate, lively bubbles combine with vibrant acidity and fruity, brut dosage making for a very balanced and harmonious apéritif wine. 2024-2027– jb

As an apéritif

A classic Clare Valley Riesling with all the hallmark features of piercing acidity, pure, racy citrus flavours and subtle minerality. The palate is light bodied with a steely tension that carries through to the long, dry finish. Drinking well now but with enough lip-smacking freshness to hold well over the moderate term. 2024-2028– jb

4623 BEC HARDY SHIRAZ, LANGHORNE CREEK, 2022

4624 BEC HARDY CABERNET SAUVIGNON, LANGHORNE CREEK, 2022

Cabernet Sauvignon

WINES TO SAVOUR ANY DAY OF THE WEEK

The vineyards of Langhorne Creek are situated southeast of Adelaide where southerly winds reduce daytime temperature fluctuations giving a very temperate climate. Shiraz is one of the star grapes here – and this is a fine example. Heady baked fruit gains in complexity as rich undertones of olive and chocolate emerge. The palate is full bodied and flavourful with firm, sinewy tannins and bright acidity throughout. 2024-2032– jb

Cabernet Sauvignon is also a major red grape in Langhorne Creek – and it’s easy to see why. Bec Hardy’s appealing 2022 vintage offers an abundance of aromatic herbs bringing an added dimension to the ripe dark fruit and floral notes. The palate is bold and firm in structure with a minty freshness that holds everything in balance. 2024-2032– jb

4625 BEC HARDY SHIRAZ, MCLAREN VALE, 2020

Roast prime rib with herbed duck fat potatoes

The maritime freshness typical of the McLaren Vale terroir is amply on display here. This rich, fleshy Shiraz is nicely balanced by vibrant acidity. Floral aromas mingle with crushed black olives and blue fruits on the nose. The palate offers great depth of dark fruit flavours with tempting hints of milk chocolate and baking spice. 2024-2032– jb

18-month aged Grana Padano with

AUSTRALIA Wines

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Geoff Hardy is a cool-climate trailblazer passionate about the potential for single-vineyard expression. He has been in the business for over 40 years during which time he has consulted at more than 200 vineyards across Australia, France and Italy. When the French and Italians come in for your expertise, you know your reputation is unquestionable. Just ask the critics: Geoff’s senior winemaker, Shane Harris, has been named Australian Winemaker of the Year three times in the last decade by Australia’s leading wine industry publication, Winestate Magazine.

HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY

The Hand Crafted range is all premium fruit sourced from sustainably managed vineyards, hand-picked on an almost row-by-row basis. If the grape varieties are unfamiliar, the terroir is wellestablished: Limestone Coast is responsible for up to a third of Australia’s quality wine.

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HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY DOLCETTO, LIMESTONE COAST, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2023

Dolcetto

Deep purple in colour, this wine offers an animated variety of spicy fruit on the nose with sweet spice, mace, black pepper, cinnamon, cocoa powder and fruity sour cherry griottes. The palate continues to hold its form with beautifully luscious red fruit, aromatic wild rose and a soft, understated acidity. 2024-2026 –mp 4626

An absolute blockbuster nose of ripe cherry, cranberry, eucalyptus, black pepper, damp earth and prune. There is a second wave of cedar, vanilla and woodsmoke. No arguing with the tannins here – which are offset by silky fruit including blackberry, plum, cherry, and supporting oak notes. This will keep on dancing for a few more years. 2026-2029–mp

HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY LAGREIN / SANGIOVESE CASE3 BOTTLES EACH:

HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY LAGREIN, LIMESTONE COAST / ADELAIDE HILLS, 2021

Lagrein

Strangely appealing for a grape variety far from its home in northern Italy! Deep purple hue with a dense nose of bramble, hibiscus, mulberry, cooked plum and blueberry jam. There is a faint touch of oak on the palate, framed by a healthy dollop of black fruit from start to finish. Additional complexity from coffee, licorice and chocolate notes do not go unnoticed. A seam of acidity prevents fruit overkill, with the finish offering an appealing tannic kick. “Lagrein?” I hear you say. Keep an open mind: this is what the future will look like. 2024-2030– mp

Flank steak London broil with mixed

NEW

HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY SANGIOVESE, LANGHORNE CREEK, 2021

Sangiovese

Ripe fruit and truffle mingle with oak on the nose of this medium ruby-hued wine. Tomato leaf, cold tea, cocoa powder and leather add to the exotic profile in much the same way as they do in Tuscany. On the palate, this is a bold number but far from overblown: the dusty tannins are a particular high point and delicate counterbalance to ripe strawberry, raspberry, plum and cherry. 2024-2027– mp

GMH

GMH are Geoff’s initials. This ever-popular range of wines from across South Australia has an ethos similar to his Hand Crafted range but with a focus on more traditional old-world varieties.

Vibrant Aussie Shiraz with a deep purple hue and notes of black pepper, capsicum, blackberry and saddle leather. The refined palate gives signature Shiraz black fruit: blackberry and black cherry, spiciness and an appealing overlay of vanilla oak that is beautifully melded into the sleek frame. 2024-2028 – mp 4629

Blackberry, cherry, plum, saddle leather

12-year-aged Beemster cheese

Another excellent example of deeply pigmented Merlot with a nose of delectable Christmas cake, sweet spice, baked plum and black cherry. This is predictably rich and inviting on the palate, a plethora of unctuous black fruit, including blackberry and baked plums filling the mouth in a riot of flavour. Soft ripe tannins round off this stellar effort. 2024-2026 – mp

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GMH SHIRAZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2021

Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon

Deep ruby. The nose shows complexity and development: blackcurrant, forest floor, black kirsch, prune, sandalwood and chocolate all make an entrance. There is a savoury quality making its debut on the palate with tobacco, wet leaves, mushroom, baking spices and clove all in the mix. It stands firm on the finish, too, with acidity and tannins supporting pleasingly developed fruit. 2024-2026 – mp

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Tobacco, wet leaves, mushroom, blackcurrant

GMH MERITAGE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2022

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot

Deep purple. Beguiling nose with menthol and eucalyptus to the fore. The palate begins with firm acidity and dusty tannins which wrap around dried blackcurrant, cranberry, some cooked plum and forest floor. There is old-world style in this: it’s slightly reserved but has some mileage yet to cover. 2024-2026 – mp

blue cheese

K1

Where it all began. Geoff has been producing outstanding cool-climate wines from the K1 vineyard in Adelaide Hills since 1986. The groundbreaking site was the first-ever vineyard in the Kuitpo region and is still in top form.

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4634 K1 SINGLE VINEYARD GRUNER VELTLINER, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2022

Pronounced, ripe stone fruit, apple and apricot on the nose followed by lemon pith and pink grapefruit. On the palate, this is clean and round. The well-defined fruit character comprises tinned peaches, apricot jam and some vegetal character. This is a buoyant, juicy sparkler for current consumption. Drink now al fresco.– mp

Pale lemon hue. Graceful nose of celery, white pepper, honeydew melon, white peach and lemon curd. Remarkably satisfying in the mouth, bursting with abundant acidity and wonderful, textured citrus and stone fruit that lead the procession on the lingering finish. Drink now. – mp

Deep ruby colour and sporting a classic Merlot nose of Christmas cake, baked plum, black cherry, cedar and vanilla. The palate offers baked black fruit which sits well alongside complex, tertiary notes of forest floor, leather and cold ash. The acidity is well judged; the finish convincing. Fine tannins provide a dusty backdrop to the dense fruit. Impressive. 2024-2028.– mp

As an aperitif on the patio

K1 SINGLE VINEYARD MIDDLE HILL SHIRAZ / K1 BY GEOFF HARDY SHIRAZ CASE3 BOTTLES EACH:

This must be a cool-climate Shiraz lover’s dream: two wines from Geoff’s signature K1 vineyard.

FROM EARLY ADOPTER TO TRENDSETTER COOL CLIMATE SHIRAZ.

K1 SINGLE VINEYARD MIDDLE HILL SHIRAZ, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2021

K1 BY GEOFF HARDY SHIRAZ, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2021

Deep ruby in colour. Black cherry, cooked plum, prune and black pepper lead on the nose. The palate is lean and peppery with a sprinkling of vanilla, while the fine tannins and tempered acidity make for stylish coolclimate expression. 2024-2026 – mp

Deep ruby in colour with notes of baked cherry and creosote. The palate continues in a similar vein but adds notes of bramble and black pepper. This is surprisingly forward and supple with fine tannins and acidity and will make for enjoyable early drinking. 2024-2028–mp

Baked cherry, tar, black pepper, bramble

Pan-seared filet mignon with rosemary, thyme and red wine pan jus

McHenry Hohnen

MARGARET RIVER

AUSTRALIA

Biodynamic farming and minimal-intervention winemaking from a producer that has stood the test of time. Founder Murray McHenry originally supplied Cape Mentelle and has been on the Margaret River scene for more than 40 years. He is something of a serial high achiever having been awarded the Order of Australia Medal in 2022 for services to both sport and hospitality. The winery is rooted in terroir-driven principles and, of course, winemaking excellence.

MCHENRY HOHNEN CHARDONNAY CASE3 BOTTLES EACH:

McHenry Hohnen describe the Rocky Road range as a playground where they push the stylistic boundaries: for all that, it is a refreshingly smooth ride. Fans of this acclaimed estate will enjoy the opportunity to compare the two Chardonnay styles.

Pale lemon. Aromatically in another league, this has a huge array of stone fruit, citrus fruit, tropical fruit and just enough oak to strike a balance. On the palate it is big and unabashed. Classic Margaret River Chardonnay with layers of peach, all manner of citrus, hints of apple, melon and passion fruit alongside vanilla, clove and cinnamon. This tapers to a brilliant finish. 2024-2028– mp

Notes of struck match, buttered popcorn, dried honey and bacon fat speak of barrel-ferment on full lees in this pale lemon wine. The fruit character is slightly cooler climate, with more citrus and stone fruit. This is a dead-ringer for top-drawer Burgundy – there's everything here including oak, a huge range of cool-climate fruit characteristics, bouncy acidity, and stunning length. 2025-2030–mp

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MCHENRY HOHNEN HAZEL'S VINEYARD GRENACHE SYRAH MATARO, MARGARET RIVER, 2021

Grenache, Syrah, Mataro

Medium ruby. Classic GSM with appealing balsamic nose of hedgerow, wild strawberry, crushed black pepper, cedar, menthol, tar and woodsmoke. The palate merges fabulous Grenache-inspired warmth and spicy Shiraz notes – but this is much more than the sum of its parts. Notes of tinned strawberry, sage, blueberry jam, wild rose, black pepper, cedar and licorice all make an appearance here. The finish is excellent and shows impeccable fruit and alcohol balance. 2023-2030 – mp

Balsamic, hedgerow, wild strawberry, tar

Tinned strawberry, sage, blueberry jam, wild rose

Bacon-wrapped veal-beef-pork meatloaf with Bourbon barbecue glaze

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ATTICUS THE FINCH COLLECTION RED BLEND, MARGARET RIVER, 2021

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc

Atticus wines (Chapman Grove) have been integral to the success of Margaret River, Australia’s premium cool-climate wine region. This is a five-star James Halliday winery, in the top 12% of all Australian wineries reviewed. This Atticus release has a pale ruby hue and developed nose of balsamic, blackcurrant and blackberry alongside wet leaves, damp earth and undergrowth. The austere, mature palate reveals similar balsamic and leafy notes with the addition of a dollop of cassis. Grippy tannins and lively acidity make for a stately wine that offers immediate drinking pleasure. 2023-2026 –mp

Blackcurrant, blackberry, cassis, forest floor

Blackcurrant, cassis, blackberry leaf, forest floor

Bœuf en daube

BOURGOGNE

The wines of the Bourgogne have been revered for centuries. The region’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the quality benchmark for winemakers around the world. Located in eastern France, the Bourgogne wine region consists of just over 30,000 hectares of vines dotted across a 230-kilometre expanse from the Châtillonais in the north to the Mâconnais in the south. Here, limestone and marl soils combine with a continental climate to produce elegant, terroirspecific wines. Though premier and grand cru prices have skyrocketed in recent years, the quality of wines from Bourgogne’s regional tier has improved dramatically – and still offers decent value for wine lovers.

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DOMAINE DES TERRES GENTILLES BOURGOGNE ROUGE, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOP, 2022

34 $ 204

This old-vine cuvée is made from venerable Pinot Noir plantings which produce low yields of flavourful fruit. The grapes are destemmed and fermented at controlled temperatures with very gentle phenolic extraction giving fine, rounded tannins. This 2022 vintage has pleasing aromas of tart red fruit with earthy undertones and hints of oak spice. The palate is equally vibrant with its red berry flavours and taut, tangy mouthfeel. 2024-2028 –jb

EXCEPTIONAL QUALITY FROM A REGION RENOWNED FOR ITS EXCELLENCE.

Pot-au-feu

DOMAINE DES TERRES GENTILLES

The literal translation of Terres Gentilles is “kind” or “friendly” lands. This is an apt description of the beneficial conditions that allow the Bourgogne estate’s Pinot Noir grapes to thrive on their clay-limestone vineyard plots. The estate owner is a big believer in crafting wines in an approachable style, so that they can be enjoyed in their youth and throughout their lifespan.

DOMAINE GOUBARD

The Domaine Goubard is located in the Côte Chalonnaise. As is common in Bourgogne, the family’s 40-hectares of vineyards are spread out in small plots across several areas, including Givry, Givry Premier Cru, and the regional Côte Chalonnaise appellation. Brothers Pierre-François and Vincent run the property today. Their commitment to sustainable viticulture led them to obtain the national sustainability certification, Haute Valeur Environmentale.

Bernard and Blandine Perrin: An Opimian Legacy

By Kenneth Christie MW

Opimian was the largest part of my working life, especially during the 38 years when I worked as a wine finder and consultant for the society until my retirement in 2011.

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DOMAINE GOUBARD BOURGOGNE CÔTE CHALONNAISE, MONTAVRIL, AOP, 2022

The Mont-Avril vineyard, perched at 420 metres, has a highly favourable southeast orientation. This is one of the Goubard family’s most prized sites, yielding consistently high-quality Pinot Noir each year. The 2022 features dark fruit and peppery spices on the nose. The palate is initially quite velvety with tangy fruit flavours, firm tannins and lingering earthy undertones. 2025-2028 –jb

Before working with John Sambrook, the founder of Opimian, I had first been a wine buyer and then became the Fine Wines Director of the wine merchant subsidiary of Allied Domecq, Europe's largest wine organization, which, at that time, owned Hiram Walker and many other world-leading brands. During this period, in the late 1960s, I witnessed the emergence of the celebrated Beaujolais negotiant Georges DuBoeuf and other firms in the region. They propelled the sales of Beaujolais to levels never seen before.

Sadly, it seemed to me that Beaujolais and its wines had lost their market appeal as the quality of the region's wines declined. In my role as the wine buyer for a large company, I was determined to address this situation. In November 1970, I visited the region and purchased a total of twelve cases of Beaujolais Nouveau from the quality negotiant house of Loron et Cie. I brought these cases back to London by train. Recognizing the significance of this, our company's Public Relations team orchestrated widespread publicity for my small shipment of the youthful wine.

This became the early foundation of the maniacal craze in the subsequent years for the Beaujolais Nouveau fad. This fad rapidly evolved into an international annual wine event, where even the Canadian Liquor Boards joined the mad chase to get the Nouveau back to their market in record time by air freighting the wines to Ontario and Québec. This was particularly aimed

at satisfying the growing thirst for the taste of wine in Canada.

Of course, the craze I started in 1970 with my initial purchase was never meant to last. Within a few years, not only did the rush to sample the wine from the new vintage lose its appeal, but also the demand for the unfinished wine of questionable quality dwindled. Concurrently, the production of the finest wines from the Beaujolais region, which had lost their consumer appeal, also declined.

This was close to being a tragedy for the many talented vignerons who were producing wonderful wines using the fruit of the Gamay Noir grape, the classic vine of Beaujolais and the vineyard region of southern Burgundy. Once again, I took to the road in my mobile home, which I always drove to the regions I wished to explore. This not only made my travels economically sustainable, but allowed me to return home carrying large volumes of samples for further tasting.

On this visit, I took an old friend, John Brownsdon, a fellow Master of Wine known for discovering top-quality vineyards and wines. On our first evening in France, we arrived in Chenas as night fell in appalling weather. We parked alongside the high stone wall of the village church and settled down to enjoy an early gin and tonic before crossing the road to eat in the local restaurant. My friend opened the door to the mobile home and threw out the lemon slice from his aperitif. As he jumped out, he slipped on the lemon slice and tumbled into a deep pool of rainwater. Undeterred and after a change of clothes, we dined well on the local Beaujolais gourmet food specialties.

Early the next day we set off to see a grower in the village of Ternand, in the extreme south of the region. Leaving the main road, we climbed steadily upwards towards the tops of the hills from which

we could see over the oceans of vineyards of the Beaujolais region and towards the Montagne de Brouilly. Close to the summit above Ternand was a stylish house alongside a modern winery. This, as my companion advised me, was the Domaine de Milhomme, a historic vineyard named after a great battle in Roman times.

The property belonged to a highly talented young vigneron named Bernard Perrin and his wife, Blandine. Bernard, a graduate of the local viticultural college, had an extensive circle of friends who owned vineyards in the best sites across all the villages of the Beaujolais. These villages collectively form the '10 Crus de Beaujolais'. With Bernard guiding us, we visited several vineyards, sampling wines and savouring brandy along with slices of smoked ham freshly carved from the bone. One by one, I selected the wines I wished to offer from our host's vineyards. During our first stop, we met Annie Jambon, the owner of a superb winery from the Côte de Brouilly appellation. Even at that early hour, as we tasted her wine, it became evident that its quality stood on a different level compared to other wines of the appellation.

Throughout the day, we visited each of the Beaujolais Crus, and by evening, our mouths were stained a deep purple and I had compiled a list of wines to offer to Opimian. Yet, realizing the significance of a name, I made the decision then and there to name the selection 'Le Cercle de Beaujolais,' and that's how it was referred to in the subsequent Opimian Cellar Plan.

During that time, there was no other outlet—not only in Canada but also in the UK—where a selection of wines from this

long-overlooked region could match our selection for its ubiquitously high quality.

For some years after that, my new friend Bernard Perrin oversaw the wines we wanted for the Opimian Society's offerings. Each year, Bernard tweaked the list of vignerons we used, always seeking out the very best wines from the region. Whether it was from a vineyard hugging the steep hillsides of Juliénas, the volcanic slope of the mountain of Brouilly, or from underneath the windmill of Moulin-à-Vent, Bernard always found the best.

A year or two after our initial offering, Bernard let us know that he wanted to work as a negotiant. He believed that we could significantly enhance our selection of wines from the entire Rhône Valley by applying the same finding-and-selecting techniques we had used during our initial collaboration. Once again, with Bernard leading the way, I drove down to southern France. During this trip, we called vignerons from numerous villages and appellations within the Rhône Valley, tasting widely and culling the selections until we found the best growers. Opimian's Rhône offering had never been so well considered, diverse and excellent.

Now, Bernard is about to retire, perhaps to make music given that he and other family members are all talented players of the trumpet. Or he might simply bask in the sunlight on the hillside below the Domaine de Milhomme, enjoying a glass or two of his wine with superb views over the vines of his beautiful vineyard region.

Bernard and his delightful wife Blandine have served Opimian admirably for many years, and their dedication deserves a long and relaxing retirement.

Merci, Bernard and Blandine. Vive le Beaujolais!

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DOMAINE THEVENOT-LE BRUN BOURGOGNE HAUTES CÔTES DE BEAUNE, BLANC, AOP, 2022

DOMAINE THEVENOTLE BRUN

The Thevenot-le Brun estate is situated in the town of Marey-lesFussey, above the vineyards of the Côte de Beaune and Nuits, in an area called the Hautes Côtes. Long considered too cool to produce quality wine, the Hautes Côtes is experiencing a renaissance as temperatures rise on the lower slopes. Thevenot-le brun is at the forefront of this movement.

DOMAINE THEVENOT-LE BRUN BOURGOGNE HAUTES CÔTES DE BEAUNE, ROUGE, AOP, 2022

This 2022 Hautes Côtes de Beaune white was fermented at moderately cool temperatures and aged for several months on fine lees to yield a fresh, fruity, rounded style of Chardonnay. The desired result was indeed achieved: the wine is broad and lively with notes of ripe citrus and orchard fruits. Crisp acidity enhances the juicy fruit flavours. Finishes smooth and dry. 2024-2027–jb

CÔTE-D’OR: CÔTE DE BEAUNE & CÔTE DE NUITS

The Côte d’Or is a limestone escarpment stretching south from Dijon to the Côte Chalonnaise. It is divided into the Côte de Nuits, which produces mainly red wines, and the Côte de Beaune, a more varied vineyard area planted to both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

After fermentation in tank, a portion of the Hautes Côtes de Beaune red is aged in seasoned oak barrels: this brings added aromatic complexity and structural appeal. Vibrant red and black fruit flavours echo across the nose and palate mingling with savoury undertones. Overall, a brisk, textural wine with fine, chalky tannins. 2025-2028 –jb

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DOMAINE THEVENOT-LE BRUN BOURGOGNE HAUTES CÔTES DE

Though it is not commonly known, Pinot Blanc is a permitted white variety in many Bourgogne appellations. Three quarters of the blend of this Hautes Côtes de Nuits is Pinot Blanc, with Chardonnay playing a secondary role. This is a pretty, textural white wine with vivid fruit flavours and refreshing acidity. 2024-2027–jb

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DOMAINE THEVENOT-LE BRUN BOURGOGNE HAUTES CÔTES DE

Bright acidity and fine-grained tannins bookend the palate of this attractive Pinot Noir. The texture is soft and powdery with lots of juicy red fruit flavours and underlying herbal, peppery nuances. Overall, a very balanced, vibrant red wine which will really shine with a year or two in the cellar. 2025-2028 –jb

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DOMAINE THEVENOT-LE BRUN BOURGOGNE HAUTES CÔTES DE NUITS, BLANC, "CLOS DU VIGNON", MONOPOLE, AOP, 2022

Chardonnay

The Clos du Vignon is a seven-hectare walled vineyard plot owned exclusively by the Thevenot-Le Brun estate. The area planted to Chardonnay faces southeast catching the beneficial morning sun. The 2022 is voluptuous in style with a creamy, rounded mid palate ably balanced by crisp acidity. Toasty spiced nuances from extended oak ageing are nicely integrated with the earthy, bright fruited flavours. 2024-2029 –jb

DOMAINE THEVENOT-LE BRUN BOURGOGNE HAUTES CÔTES DE NUITS, ROUGE, "CLOS DU VIGNON", MONOPOLE, AOP, 2022

Five of the seven hectares of the Clos du Vignon Monopole is planted to Pinot Noir. The vineyards lie on a steep southeast-facing slope with stony, clay-limestone soils. The 2022 cuvée is quite full bodied with firm yet ripe tannins and lots of intriguing savoury and spiced nuances adding depth to the floral, redfruit high notes. Needs a little time to unwind and reveal its full potential. 2025-2030 –jb

DOMAINE BONNARDOT

The 22-hectare Domaine Bonnardot is located in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits village of Villers-la-Faye. In 2008, current owner Danièle Bonnardot converted the property to organic viticulture. To this day, she continues to seek out better, more eco-friendly vineyard treatments, trialing different herbal infusions and essential oils. Wildlife corridors and beehives are dotted through the vineyards to enhance biodiversity.

This Côtes de Nuits Villages cuvée is sourced from several mid-slope plots of 70- to 80-year-old vineyards. It is a broad, weighty expression of Pinot Noir with layers of dark fruit, fresh herbal nuances and earthy undertones. Firm but ripe, structuring tannins and well integrated oak spice frame the long finish. 2025-2033 –jb

The Ladoix appellation is located on the Côte de Beaune, directly below the eastern slopes of the famed Corton hill. Pinot Noir dominates here. The Les Ranches vineyard boasts deep clay-limestone soils giving a lot of weight and density to the wine. Initially reserved, dark fruit and spiced aromas emerge with aeration. The palate is bold and firm with a pleasant rusticity underscoring the finish. 2025-2033 –jb

The Belissand premier cru vineyard is located between the villages of Beaune and Pommard on a southeastfacing slope at 230 metres. Fermentation is natural with wild yeasts followed by 18 months in 20% new French oak. The result is masterful. Very pure and fragrant on the nose with enticing savoury spice developing on the palate. Full-bodied and fresh with a satiny texture tapering to fine-grained tannins on the long finish. 2025-2037–jb

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND

The Désertaux family have been tending their vineyards in Corgoloin since 1899. However, it wasn’t until the 1960s that the DésertauxFerrand estate was officially established by Bernard Désertaux and his wife Janine. The domaine is ideally situated between the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits allowing the current generation easy access to their vineyard plots spanning both côtes, from Meursault to Nuits-Saint-Georges.

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DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ, AOP, 2022

Aligoté

A classic unoaked Bourgogne Aligoté with discreet green fruit and earthy aromas. High, nervy acidity gives way to quite a supple, lightweight palate humming with zesty notes of citrus and tart orchard fruit. The finish is bone-dry with subtle, refreshing bitters. Great with light, briny shellfish or mixed as a traditional Kir cocktail. 2024-2026 –jb

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As an apéritif in a classic crème de cassis Kir cocktail

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND BOURGOGNE BLANC, AOP, 2022

Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay

The Bourgogne Blanc cuvée from Domaine Désertaux-Ferrand is composed essentially of Pinot Blanc with just 10% Chardonnay rounding out the blend. Very crisp and smooth with tart orchard fruit, citrus and subtle undertones of sweet spice. Already drinking well as a light, dry apéritif white. 2024-2027–jb

CELLAR UP!

WINES TO SHAPE YOUR CELLAR

Here we are at the beginning of another Cellar season. With so many new Members in the past year and with turning a new page, we wanted to share the intent of Cellar Up!

One of the things we hear most from Members is that they love the breadth of the offerings but, that in itself, presents a delightful problem. What to order!?!

The Cellar Up! feature provides you with a snapshot of the most iconic wines within each Cellar. If you are looking to build a diverse, quality cellar of your own that represents the major wine-growing regions in the world, you can use this information to narrow down your choices.

We've now introduced a lot number for you to order all of the wines featured here. A very simple way of getting a great representation of styles from these regions. Cheers to the joy of wine!

$ 1374

LOT 4600, P13

LIGHT-BODIED WHITE, MARLBOROUGH

When you think Marlborough, think Sauvignon Blanc. Considered one of the best regions for this wonderful white, the Massey Dacta version is the perfect example. Great for so much more than summer sipping.

DOMAINE THEVENOT-LE BRUN BOURGOGNE HAUTES CÔTES DE BEAUNE, BLANC, AOP, 2022, LOT 4648, P42

MEDIUM-BODIED WHITE, HAUTES CÔTES DE BEAUNE

Lively and on the light side of medium-bodied in its youth. After 2 - 3 years in your cellar, the increased smoothness and density give you a second, incredible wine experience.

TE MATA ESTATE MERLOT CABERNETS, HAWKE'S BAY, 2022, LOT 4605, P17

MEDIUM-BODIED RED, HAWKE'S BAY

Truly world-class, anything from Te Mata will thrill you. This particular one, the Merlot blend, will knock your socks off! Super with the suggested pairings or on it's own as well.

DOMAINE DES TERRES GENTILLES BOURGOGNE ROUGE, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOP, 2022, LOT 4646, P39

MEDIUM-BODIED RED, BOURGOGNE

Approachable and refined? You bet! This is, of course, Pinot Noir from Bourgogne. An excellent value to add to any cellar. You'll find yourself pulling one out for so many occasions.

THISTLEDOWN CUNNING PLAN SHIRAZ, MCLAREN VALE, 2022, LOT 4608, P19

FULL-BODIED RED, MCLAREN VALE

Here's one to either drink now or put in the cellar for up to 10 years! Choose both! Sample a bottle on arrival and decide for yourself when you'd like to drink the rest.

GMH MERITAGE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2022, LOT 4632, P33

FULL-BODIED RED, SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Anything from Geoff Hardy is worthy of inclusion in your cellar. This Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot blend is best to drink now, or in the next few years.

4660 DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES, AOP, 2022

Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc

A blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Blanc aged for seven months in a small portion of new and mainly seasoned French oak barrels. The nose is quite discreet with herbal and floral notes mixing with hints of citrus and lactic nuances on the nose. The palate is medium bodied with a slightly steely edge, layered with earthy yellow fruit nuances. 2024-2027–jb

13.5%

4662

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND POMMARD, AOP, 2022

4661

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR, AOP, 2022

Pommard, on the Côte de Beaune, can produce quite a robust, structured style of Pinot Noir: this is definitely the case with the 2022 vintage from Désertaux-Ferrand. Complex floral, cherry and graphite notes feature on the nose. The palate is amply proportioned with good depth of flavour and a long, nuanced finish. Needs a couple of years for the grippy tannins and oak spice to fully integrate but should mature nicely over the next decade. 2026-2036–jb

de Bourgogne 13.5%

This old-vine Pinot Noir is made from 40-year-old vineyards. Fermentation is natural with wild yeasts followed by extended ageing in tanks to preserve the wine’s fresh, fruity character. The 2022 has a discreet perfume of brambly red berries and earthy undertones. The palate is brisk and taut with bright fruit and firm tannins. 2024-2028 –jb

Meet Your Masters of Wine

For five decades, Opimian has recognized the extraordinary value of the Masters of Wine guidance, relying on their discerning palates and comprehensive understanding to ensure that only the finest wines reach our Members.

A Master of Wine (MW) is a prestigious and internationally recognized qualification in the field of wine. It is considered one of the highest levels of expertise and achievement in the wine industry. The title

Michael Palij MW

Hailing from Canada but currently residing in the UK, Michael's focus is on Italian wines. His extensive collaboration with vignerons over time has positioned him as a sought-after advisor for technical insights within wineries, particularly for blending and providing commentary on diverse fermentation processes. Michael was the founding fund manager for the Institute of Masters of Wine Endowment Fund and is now a Director of the IMWEF. Over the years, Michael has introduced Opimian to some truly special producers.

is given by the Institute of Masters of Wine, an organization based in the United Kingdom. Here at Opimian, we feel so lucky to work with our esteemed and knowledgeable MWs.

How does our wine selection process work? For each cellar, our team of MWs carefully sample and taste hundreds of wines from exclusive global producers, all at our Montreal head office. Leveraging their vast experience and well-established connections within the wine industry, they identify hidden gems and introduce our Members to exceptional producers worldwide. The result? A superb lineup of wines for you to try.

Let us introduce you to the MWs who are the heart and soul of Opimian's wine curation.

Jacky Blisson MW

Jacky is an independent wine educator, writer, and consultant with over two decades of experience in all facets of the global wine trade. She is the first Master of Wine in Quebec and one of only ten across Canada. Her clientele features esteemed names like Napa Valley Vintners, Rías Baixas Wines, and Rioja DOCa, while her self-named YouTube channel and wine review site enriches knowledge for wine enthusiasts worldwide. She's also a judge for the National Wine Awards of Canada, underscoring her indelible mark on the wine industry. Jacky was recently appointed a Bourgogne Wine Official Ambassador. She is based in Montreal.

Igor Ryjenkov MW

Igor was the first in Canada to earn the prestigious Master of Wine credential in 2003. His wine business expertise has been informed by 24 years in the Ontario trade, first in retail, then in key buying positions, and lastly in projects, most notably developing the new 5-dot wine style matrix. Additionally, he offers private consultation, guiding local importing agents and international wine producers through brand development and the final leg of reaching the Ontario market.

These three Masters of Wine— Michael, Jacky and Igor—are the driving force behind Opimian's commitment to delivering an unparalleled journey to our Members. Their collective wisdom weaves a narrative of excellence that continues to shape the very essence of our community.

4607

TE MATA ESTATE BULLNOSE SYRAH, HAWKE'S BAY, 2020

The 2020 vintage of Te Mata’s Bullnose Syrah is a stunner: sourced from several of the estate’s vineyards in Hawke’s Bay, the individual lots were vinified separately to enhance the characteristics of each terroir. After a year in new and seasoned French oak, the final blend was created. Very fragrant on the nose with vivid floral, dark fruit and savoury spiced nuances repeating on the palate. Needs a little time for the powerful frame and muscular tannins to soften. 2025-2035– jb

Peony, blackberry, blueberry, savoury spice

Blackberry, cassis, blueberry, smoked meat

Grilled eggplant and wild mushroom medley

MCHENRY HOHNEN HAZEL'S VINEYARD CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MARGARET RIVER, 2016

Cabernet Sauvignon

$ 70

$ 420

This 2016 is coming on nicely with a medium garnet hue. The aristocratic notes of cassis, blackcurrant, blackberry and plum on the nose slide gracefully into menthol, cigar box and pencil shavings. There is a lovely core of sweet black fruit including cherry, plum, cassis and blackcurrant overlaid with forest floor, licorice, sweet spice and char. Already impressively harmonious, this will continue to develop – and improve – for a decade. Drink 2028-2035– mp

RARE WINES TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

Web Exclusives

Please visit Opimian.ca for your province's pricing on these wines.

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

SFĒRA BY GEOFF HARDY

The range represents a timehonoured partnership between Geoff Hardy and some of his closest winemaking friends. All the fruit comes from their estate, near Mundulla in South Australia.

4637

SFĒRA BY WIRREGA VINEYARDS TEMPRANILLO, LIMESTONE COAST, 2022

Tempranillo

Deep purple hue. Ripe nose, bursting with blackberry, raspberry, dried cranberry and cooked plum. Impressive integration of fruit and tannin on the palate, plenty of alcohol but easily enough acidity to keep the ship from rocking. Waves of piquant red and black fruit on the finish are the mark of serious winemaking talent. 2024-2030 – mp

4638

SFĒRA BY WIRREGA VINEYARDS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, LIMESTONE COAST, 2021

Cabernet Sauvignon

Ripe, forward nose of cooked plum, dried blackberry, cocoa powder, savoury mushroom and wood smoke. The palate offers prune, clove and an abundance of spices and undergrowth. Medium tannins and acidity. This is bold and uncomplicated: it’s a generous, warm-hearted red that is not at risk of fading any time soon. 2024-2027–mp

4639 SFĒRA BY WIRREGA VINEYARDS SHIRAZ, LIMESTONE COAST, 2021

Shiraz

$ 0 $ 0

Wow! This brooding, deep ruby wine reveals an intricate nose of sour cherry griottes, capsicum, blackberry, plum, saddle leather and iodine. Black fruit and spice tumble over cedar, forest floor, creosote and kirsch on a wonderfully drawn-out palate that finds an extra gear just when it needs to. This guy knows his stuff – this is a Shiraz for grown ups. 2026-2029– mp

4640

SFĒRA BY WIRREGA VINEYARDS

BLACK SHIRAZ CABERNET

SAUVIGNON, LIMESTONE COAST, 2018

Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon

There are plenty of tertiary notes on the nose of this deep garnet wine: wet leaves, mushroom, cooked plum, sandalwood, cedar and tobacco. It is big and expansive in the mouth which fills with mature, soft black fruit and alcohol. At peak maturity, the tannins have softened with age and sit well against a steady tide of acidity. 2024-2026 –mp

4644

MCHENRY HOHNEN SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMILLON/SAUVIGNON BLANC CASE - 3 BOTTLES EACH: $ WEB $ WEB

A fine opportunity to compare varietal Sauvignon and a Sauvignon-Sémillon mix from a genuine star of the Australian winemaking scene.

ROCKY ROAD BY MCHENRY HOHNEN SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMILLON, MARGARET RIVER, 2023

Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon

Pale lemon colour and very obvious nose that skilfully combines the aromatic, grassy notes of Sauvignon with the waxy character of Sémillon. There's more, too, with passion fruit, dried honey, gooseberry, fennel, wet stone and elderflower. On the palate, it seems just off dry with the fruit easing in to centre stage. The acidity is a lively counterfoil, and the alcohol does not dominate with a fruit-driven, lingering palate. Drink 2024-2027– mp

MCHENRY HOHNEN SAUVIGNON BLANC, MARGARET RIVER, 2022

Sauvignon Blanc

Pale lemon colour and an intense, waxy nose of ripe stone fruit including melon, peach, nectarine and passion fruit – plus a discreet touch of oak. The palate is reminiscent of a California Fumé Blanc revealing an agreeable weight and rounded fruit character: white melon, ripe peach, tropical fruit and more weight. The light oak influence makes for a compelling, nuanced finish. Drink now. – mp

Popup! WEB

Meet Markus Molitor, “Mr. 300 Points”

Germany’s most awarded winemaker

Introduce a new member to Opimian, and you’ll each receive a case of Te MATA Estate Merlot Cabernets, Hawke’s Bay 2022, to celebrate together!

In 2015, three of his wines from the 2013 vintage received a rating of 100 points from The Wine Advocate; thus his nickname, “Mr. 300 points” (Herr 300 Punkte in German). We are pleased to announce that Opimian has secured a small allocation of these outstanding wines from this brilliant winemaker. Don’t miss this opportunity to get your hands on these top-scoring wines, as they usually sell out in record time!

Only at Opimian.ca beginning February 27.

LIMITED TIME – LIMITED QUANTITIES – WEB ONLY