C290-QC

Verdelho / Pinot Grigio / Arneis Mixed Case

LOT 2957

FIRST LAUNCH GLOBALLY FOR THESE WINES

Shane Harris is the only Australian to be named Winemaker of the Year three times by Australia’s Winestate magazine, having won the award in 2012, 2018 and 2020. Before entering the wine industry, Shane was a chef by trade and still uses these skills to complement his winemaking philosophy and make food-friendly wines. Shane relies on the vines to translate the unique message of the vineyard into something tangible and sees his role as "not losing the message between picking the grapes and opening the bottle".

A near-perfect 2021 vintage across South Australia allowed for a slow ripening of the grapes and great flavour development. The three European grape varieties represented in this mixed case thrived and produced can’t-miss wines.

Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy Verdelho, Limestone Coast, 2021

Intense herbal aromas of basil and tomato leaf continue onto the palate. It has nice mid-palate weight with some melon and mint characters coming through. Verdelho was one of the original grape varieties planted at Wirrega Vineyards in 1993. Some skin contact was carried out for six hours after picking, the grapes pressed and fermented at low temperature.

2022-2023, M8 D9

Verdelho 6°C 12.5% Broiled tiger prawns with lime

Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy Pinot Grigio, Limestone Coast, 2021

A rich and full Pinot Grigio with ripe apple and spicy earthy flavours. It is supple with good mid-palate weight and depth. 2021 is the first release of this wine – and what a treat. Grapes were grown at Wirrega Vineyard close to Mundulla on the Limestone Coast. Over a million years ago, the region was an inland sea which has left a unique geological profile with a base of limestone and layers of terra rossa soils high in iron content. Old Sémillon vines were grafted over to Pinot Grigio in 2009.

2022-2023, M8 D9

Pinot Grigio 6°C 12.5% Seafood salad

Hand Crafted by Geoff Hardy Arneis, Adelaide Hills, 2021

Crystalline in structure, it has subtle aromas of grass and fresh nectarine. It is supple with similar flavours on the palate and a crisp citrus finish. Arneis was planted at K1 at the same time as a number of other experimental varieties in 2008. Originally from Piedmont in Italy, it is quite a difficult grape to grow and vinify. Shane seems to have found the key to success through reductive handling of the juice.

EDITORIAL

A New Season Begins

Welcome to the first Cellar of the 2022 Cellar Season. We've got lots to tell you. From the continuous improvement of this publication to our constant search for the best wines in the world, Opimian remains Canada's Wine Club.

Each of the wine regions featured here had its own challenges in this past year (as if a global pandemic wasn't enough!). New Zealand had its poorest harvest in memory. Terrible weather devastated the crop. As a result, Massy Dacta is representing the country all by themselves. Please support their determination.

price increases but luckily our strong relationships in Burgundy mean that we will still have phenomenal wines to choose from. In addition, we have a new, exclusive partner from Burgundy. Michael Ragg and his wife Fiona Traill-Stevenson of Mischief & Mayhem tell the story of Burgundian terroir through their remarkable wines. Burgundy lovers take note!

OPIMIAN SUGGESTS P5

COUPS DE COEUR P7

MASSEY DACTA P8

BERTON VINEYARDS P10

HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT P14

CELLAR UP! P16

BEC HARDY WINES P18

GEOFF HARDY P24

TOP VALUE WINES P32

BRIAR RIDGE VINEYARD P34

CHAPMAN GROVE WINES P36

DOMAINE DES TERRES GENTILLES / MAISON ALPHONSE JACQUIER P41

DOMAINE BONNARDOT P44

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND P48

DOMAINE THEVENOT LE BRUN P52

DOMAINE DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS P54

NEW MISCHIEF AND MAYHEM P58

COLLECTOR’S CORNER P62

Australia, on the other hand, had a bumper crop and an amazing vintage. They have been dealing with a ban on Australian wines by the Chinese, but soldier on by making exceptional wines for Canada and the rest of the world. So much good news here. Bec Hardy won the coveted award "top 40 under 40" in South Australia this year. The winemaker at Geoff Hardy, Shane Harris, won Australian Winemaker of the Year - the first to do so for the third time! Chapman Grove submitted such a stellar range of wines for you this year, we've chosen the largest portfolio of their wines ever. Add to that the return of Berton, Briar Ridge and Hastwell & Lightfoot and the Opimian light is shining brightly down under.

Oh, Burgundy! We were so sad to hear of the potential of the worst harvest in 45 years in many parts of France. Production could be down by 30 percent. The low production and ever-increasing shipping costs throughout the world resulted in

We have refreshed several of the features of your Cellar. We have expanded the "Directors' Cut" segment to include additional voices and opinions and, as a result, changed the name to 'Opimian Suggests'. The more diversity, the better. Cellar Up!, your vehicle to diversity in your cellar, has been refined. We'll feature the styles that best represent the regions of the Cellar with more detail about each of them. You can then go online to explore the suggestions for additional wine styles. We continue to expand our variety of pack sizes and provide more mixed case options for you. How better to discover all that the world of wine has to offer?

Those bonus wines that are only found at opimian.ca (we call them Web Exclusives), will continue and grow. Cheers to the 49th year of sharing the joy of wine!

Michael & Greg

CELLAR

EDITORIAL

MANAGING DIRECTOR

MICHAEL LUTZMANN

Michael has level 3 training from WSET. Before discovering more about wine through training, he only drank heavy reds. While those are still favourites, his palate pleasers now include the full spectrum with dessert/ fortified wines edging toward the top of the list.

DOMAINE BONNARDOT BEAUNE PREMIER CRU BELISSAND, AOP, 2015, MAGNUM WOOD CASE, LOT 2996, P47

OPIMIAN SUGGESTS

OUR PICKS FOR THIS CELLAR

BERTON VINEYARD THE BONSAI, HIGH EDEN, 2019 LOT 2934, P11

BEC HARDY WINES PINOT GRIS, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2021, LOT 2947, P19

MISCHIEF AND MAYHEM GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOC, 2018, LOT 3018, P61

MASSEY DACTA PINOT NOIR, MARLBOROUGH, 2021 LOT 2931, P9

MANAGING

DIRECTOR

GREG RINEHART

Greg's wine style is at the opposite end of the spectrum and gravitates towards less serious styled rosés and whites. He believes that all events should start with a glass of bubbly! However, when done right, there is no better red grape for producing lighterbodied wines of elegance and complexity than Pinot Noir.

MASTER PIECE

What in the World?

Jane Masters MW is Opimian’s Master of Wine

As Opimian Cellar Offerings start to feature 2021 wines and the wine harvest in Europe is getting into full swing, it’s a perfect time to look back at this year’s growing season.

Each year, the Southern Hemisphere wine grape harvest kicks off in late January through to April, depending on the region. If Australia was anything to go by, this year was looking good. A relief for Australian wine growers after the hot dry year which was 2020 with its wild fires and low yields. The 2021 vintage in Australia had near perfect growing and ripening conditions, producing the largest crop ever. A cooler summer has produced refreshing wines across all regions with fresh fruit flavours, moderate alcohol levels and naturally balanced acidity. There are plenty of delicious wines to choose from in C290.

Sadly, New Zealand was not quite so lucky. The wines produced are high in quality, but they are very short in supply. The Marlborough region in the north of the South Island where Ben Glover is based saw an overall reduction in wine production of more than 20%. Losses were greater or lesser depending on the site and grape variety planted. Ben lost 90% of his Chardonnay, 70% of his Gewurztraminer and 25% of his Sauvignon Blanc. The reduced crop was essentially due to spring frost in September. The frost hit after warm winter temperatures and lower rainfall than usual had brought the vines into an early budbreak. Frost

damages young shoots and buds and restricts yields. Earlier budding varieties are more susceptible. Inclement weather during flowering reduced the crop further. However from then on the season was perfect for ripening grapes and lead to harvest ten days earlier than the norm. In Ben’s words, “from a very challenging and small vintage – there are some exquisite gems. “

For many years, France and Italy vied for the number one position as the world’s largest wine producing country. For some years now that accolade has consistently gone to Italy, followed by France and Spain in third place, but with a significant gap. That’s all about to change, as the latest forecast shows that France will produce its lowest wine crop on record at -29% of 2020, taking it a peg below Spain. Similar to New Zealand, France experienced a nationwide frost in April, which the government declared a national emergency. In addition to the frost, regions with high humidity and rainfall have suffered attacks of downy mildew, while others have suffered from drought (irrigation is not permitted generally in France), both of which lead to further reductions in crop. Hail hit certain localised parts of Champagne with some fire damage in southern France. The overall trend is down, but the impact is heterogenous. The Burgundy region featured in C290 is

JANE MASTERS MW is one of 416 Masters of Wine worldwide. Every wine offered by Opimian is tasted and selected for its deliciousness and value by Jane, our consultant Master of Wine.

expected to produce half the amount of wine in 2021, with Chablis in the far north even harder hit. As these wines are only just being made, the current Cellar is based on previous vintages. 2019 and particularly 2020 Burgundies are great – so now is the time to stock up the cellar. In other parts of France, generally earlier ripening varieties like Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Merlot were most affected. The low volumes mean there will be price pressure and it is too early to say what wine quality will be, so if you are looking for nice everyday drinking wines, Australia should be a serious consideration.

As if harvest challenges weren’t enough, international shipments of wine are being hampered. Significant delays to shipping brought on by lock down constraints at ports, rescheduling of ships and container shortages are being experienced around the world with the cost of shipping increased dramatically. A general lack of truck drivers is also impacting road haulage. All in all, these are strange times with much uncertainty. At such a time, it is the small pleasures in life that make it worthwhile. I certainly appreciate having my sense of taste and smell more than ever! As well as a well-stocked cellar to dip into whatever the occasion.

COUPS DE COEUR

THIS CELLAR'S HIGHEST SCORING WINES.

EVERYDAY DRINKING

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUXFERRAND CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES, AOP, 2019, LOTS 3003-3004, P51 MASSEY DACTA SAUVIGNON BLANC, MARLBOROUGH, 2021 , LOT 2930, P9

BRIAR RIDGE COLD SOAKED CABERNET SAUVIGNON, ORANGE, 2018, LOT 2974, P35

POTENTIAL

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUXFERRAND POMMARD, AOP, 2019, LOT 3000,

NEW ZEALAND

Massey Dacta

DILLONS POINT

Late spring frosts and cool spring weather led to a much reduced grape crop in New Zealand in 2021 – and, hence, a dramatically reduced list of New Zealand wines in this Cellar Offering. In Marlborough, the country’s largest and most renowned wine region, average crops were down around 20-30%. That’s the bad news. The good news is due to these lighter crops, the quality and flavour intensity is exceptional.

Located in the Dillons Point subregion, many of the Glover family vineyards are within kilometres of the sea in a sheltered position in the lee of the Wither Hills. Most years, easterlies blowing in off the Pacific Ocean offer protection against frost. In fact, the last time Glover's vineyard was touched by frost was in 1993 (and then only slightly). No one was expecting the freezing cold that wafted across the Wairau Plains on October 22, 2020. Even if they had, frost was so rare that the Glovers had no protection infrastructure in place. Ben Glover describes the day as like a scene from “Apocalypse Now.” A constant wind blew from the southwest all day then suddenly stopped at 6 p.m. Everything went dead still and calm. Frost machines and choppers were in the air most of the night, but the damage was done. Ben lost 90% of his Chardonnay, 70% Gewurztraminer and some 25% Sauvignon Blanc. In Ben’s words, “from a very challenging and small vintage, there are some exquisite gems.”

As I write this in September 2021, spring is in the air in New Zealand and the vines are waking up. Covid-19 restrictions have meant a shortage of skilled vineyard workers, so Ben and his wife Susie have done much of the pruning themselves. All with the hope to be back on stream with a wider range of Massey Dacta wines with the 2022 vintage.

2930

Massey Dacta 2021 has nice fruit aromas with greengages and lime blossom. It is supple and round with good mid-palate fruit leading to a limey acidity and citrus pith finish. Sauvignon from Glovers’ Kerseley Estate and Alice Mills vineyards in the lower Wairau Valley have been blended this year with some fruit grown in Awatere Valley at Little Oasis Vineyard. A difficult start to the growing season was followed by good ripening conditions through to harvest which was approximately 10 days early and of super quality – one of my Coups de Coeur wines.

Tasted as a tank sample, the 2021 has a good intensity with red cherries and peony aromas. It is medium bodied with a smooth, supple palate and soft tannins finishing with nice red fruit flavours. A mix of Pinot clones were grown in the Omaka Valley in the Southern Valleys subregion of Marlborough with 90% of grapes from Settlement Vineyard planted on northwest facing slopes of clay and silt loam. Ten percent came from Kennedys Road Vineyard which sits beneath the slopes on the valley floor and has higher clay content. Grapes were handpicked a week earlier than normal.

AUSTRALIA

Australia is a big country – not quite as big as Canada but not that far off. Its history as a winemaking country dates to its settlement, in 1788, when the First Fleet (the 11 ships that departed Portsmouth, England) arrived with vines in the area that is now Sydney. James Busby, known as the father of the Australian wine industry, established a vineyard in the Hunter Valley, New South Wales, 250 kilometres north of Sydney in the 1830s. Very soon after, vineyards were being planted in South Australia and Victoria states.

Australia is hot and dry – 70% of the country is arid or semi-arid land; hence, wines are made in the cooler southern parts. Winemakers search for sites that benefit from cooling influences such as sea breeze (Australia is

surrounded by water) or a little bit of altitude (Australia is low and flat) with access to water. Without irrigation, even the hardy grapevine would be unviable across Australia. Overcoming these challenges, Australia produces highly flavoursome wines, with lots of ripe fruit flavours.

Berton Vineyards reflects its founder Bob Berton: casual, friendly and approachable. It makes affordable, easy drinking wines at its Yenda winery in Riverina. There is also a serious side to Bob, reflected in Berton Vineyards' stellar premium wines. These are produced from grapes grown on selected sites and at Bob’s estate in the High Eden in Barossa Valley. The block, which sits on rolling hills at 450 metres, was purchased by Bob and his wife Cherie in 1996.

2932

BERTON VINEYARD WINEMAKER'S RESERVE SHIRAZ, PADTHAWAY, 2020

Shiraz

$ 30 $ 180

Always a showstopper, the 2020 Winemaker’s Reserve Shiraz is a dense purple colour. On the nose, it oozes ripe blueberries, damson, smoke, menthol and oaky notes. It is medium to full bodied although a little more austere in style than previous vintages – a reflection of the cooler summer – with savoury dark fruits, oak and plum-skin flavours. Shiraz grapes were grown in the Padthaway Region of South Australia about 300 kilometres southeast of Adelaide. Padthaway has a similar cool climate to Coonawarra but slightly warmer.

Olive-crusted lamb with adzuki (red) bean stew 2934

2933 BERTON VINEYARD WINEMAKER'S RESERVE FIANO, RIVERINA, 2021

Fiano $ 30 $ 180

Fresh apples, melon and a touch of cheese rind are followed on the palate by more citrus notes of lemon and limes. Fiano grapes were harvested from a single vineyard in Riverina on February 19. It’s also suitable for vegans.

The Bonsai has moody aromas of dark fruits, coal, graphite, smoke, vanilla and coconut. Slightly lighter in structure than previous vintages, it has nice juicy black fruit flavours followed by a firm acidity. It has supple tannins and a fine texture. 2019 was a drought year – the dam at Bob’s High Eden estate ran dry – and produced the smallest crop since planting. A blend of 77% Shiraz with 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, it was matured in a combination of new and old French and American oak barrels for 14 months. The Bonsai vineyard in the High Eden subregion of Barossa Valley was planted by Bob and Cherie on a plot purchased in 1996. The plot is at 450 metres and is subject to wind as well as lots of summer sunshine. At the time of planting, there was no dam and no water for irrigation – the young vines struggled to survive let alone grow shoots and canes – a visiting Swedish friend joked that they looked like Bonsai plants: the name stuck. It is a beautiful and remote spot.

2935

BARREN JACK SEMILLON SAUVIGNON BLANC, EDENGATE, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2021

Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc $ 22

264

A medium-bodied white with aromas of gooseberry and lime which are followed by a crisp steely palate with a crystalline lemon acidity. It is relatively light in alcohol at 11.5%. An earlier harvest than usual with Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon grapes picked in the Riverina the first weeks of February.

2936

BARREN JACK CHARDONNAY, EDENGATE, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2021

Chardonnay

Spicy oak and fruit aromas lead to a crisp palate with firm acidity. Chardonnay was fermented slowly at low temperature with lightly toasted oak.

2938

BARREN JACK SHIRAZ, EDENGATE, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2021

Shiraz

$ 22 $ 264

A light- to medium-bodied Shiraz, it has earthy blackberry aromas. Sour blackberry flavours with a marked acidity come through on the palate. Shiraz was harvested between late February and mid-March, benefitting from mild conditions and some rainfall to top up soil moisture levels.

STOCK UP ON THESE FOR YEAR-ROUND DRINKING! 2937

BARREN JACK PINOT GRIGIO, EDENGATE, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2021

Pinot Grigio

22 $ 264

Subtle and elegant – and so pale it’s almost colourless. Fresh pear aromas follow through onto the light crisp palate.

and crisp, [2.20]

Tossed green salad with sunflower seeds

BARREN JACK SHIRAZ CABERNET, EDENGATE, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2021

Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

More obvious oak with pencil lead notes complementing black fruits and blueberries. The addition of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to Shiraz has resulted in a wine with more weight and structure.

Hastwell & Lightfoot

MCLAREN VALE

McLaren Vale, approximately 35 kilometres south of Adelaide, is close to the Gulf of Saint Vincent with its stunning beaches and blue sea. It is an historic region viticulturally and still has some very old vines planted around 100 years ago. McLaren Vale is known for producing, amongst other things, high quality Shiraz wines as well as Grenache and Mourvèdre and a range of Mediterranean varieties. The region has diverse soils that have been mapped in detail. Hastwell & Lightfoot have 16 hectares of vines located on the northern deep sand slopes along Foggo Road in the McLaren Flat subregion.

2940

Pinot Grigio

$ 30 $ 180

A crisp Pinot Grigio with fresh apple and melon aromas. It is medium bodied with lemon and lime flavours, crisp with good presence on the palate. Pinot Grigio grapes were sourced from a new vineyard in Langhorne Creek.

2941

Tempranillo, Garnacha

$ 30 $ 180

Aromas of red fruits and apples lead to a soft, light palate. Flavours of sour cherry combine with some savoury notes. This is a blend of 75% Tempranillo and 25% Garnacha. There is no obvious oak character although the Garnacha received a lick of oak – probably adding the aforementioned savouriness.

Bourbon-sauced pulled pork and ribs

2942 FAT'N SKINNY PICKER'S CHOICE, MCLAREN VALE, 2020

Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon

$ 30 $ 180

Intense in colour, this is somewhat restrained in aromas with shy notes of red cherry and blackberry. The palate is quite savoury and dry with mid-palate fruit developing and leading to a slightly austere finish which should mellow once in bottle. It was matured using a combination of French and American oak vats and stainless steel.

Savoury with sour fruits

Grilled flat iron steak with pepper sauce

CELLAR UP!

WINES TO SHAPE YOUR CELLAR

Welcome to the new and improved version of Cellar Up! We loved the idea of sharing the many and varied wine styles of the Cellar but thought that more detail about the unique characteristics of these categories would make this feature even better. We agree!

Each Cellar, we will shine a light on the styles that are best expressed by the featured regions. You can explore additional styles and selection advice online. As usual, the intent is to help you expand your wine horizons and the diversity in your personal cellar.

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As entertaining both family and friends slowly and safely increases, you'll be able to bring out a wine that suits the palates of your guests, pairs well whatever you're serving, or introduces a new wine experience.

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SPARKLING

LIGHT WHITE

Pairs with anything, celebrations, romance

WINE, LOT XXXX, PXX

White/light fish, sipping on its own DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ, AOP, 2020, LOT 3001, P50

Aligoté is most famous for being the base wine in a Kir — white wine and cassis. Don't stop there. Drink this icon of Burgundy on its own or pair its balanced acidity and minerality with fish, soups or salads.

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AROMATIC / SWEET WINE

FULL BODY WHITE

Poultry, mild cheeses, pork

Dessert, rich foods like foie gras HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY MUSCAT, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, LOT 2968, P30

WINE, LOT XXXX, PXX

Hand crafted, this Muscat is made from fortified grapes. It's sweet but complex and pairs with many delicious desserts like Panforte - an Italian dessert of fruit and nuts: a crowd pleaser that many people haven't heard of, let alone tasted. A perfect addition to your cellar.

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LIGHT RED

MEDIUM RED

Many pastas, pork, poultry, sipping on its own

Versatile; many meats without heavy sauces, casseroles

WINE, LOT XXXX, PXX

DOMAINE BONNARDOT BOURGOGNE HAUTES-CÔTES DE NUITS, "L'ÂGE MÛRE", AOP, 2019, LOT 2991, P45

This is a classic Burgundy if there ever was one. On your first sip, you'll understand why Burgundy is the flag bearer for Pinot Noir. Perfectly balanced, pair this one with duck breast and the food and wine make each other sing.

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MEDIUM-BODY RED

FULL BODY RED

Heavy stews, many game meats, lamb, strong cheeses, even dessert

Versatile; many meats without heavy sauces, casseroles

WINE, LOT XXXX, PXX

BEC HARDY WINES RESERVE SHIRAZ, MCLAREN VALE, 2019, LOT 2955, P23

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Without question, this McLaren Shiraz represents what Australian Shiraz is all about — and why it's so famous. Yes, reserves cost a little more, but it shows up in the glass. Only the best grapes make it in and they are treated with extra tender loving care. Have this one in your cellar to pull out when dreaming of a visit to this beautiful part of the southern coast of Australia.

...AND FOR YOUR BAR

London Dry Gin

FULL-BODY RED

WINE, LOT XXXX, PXX

Heavy stews, many game meats, lamb, strong cheeses, even dessert

ATTICUS THE FINCH COLLECTION RED BLEND, MARGARET RIVER, 2018, LOT 2978, P37

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A Bordeaux blend from Margaret River? You bet! You'll be the guest of honour when you bring this phenomenal wine to a party — or keep it for yourself. The ripe black fruit on the palate will hold up to your richest and most flavourful sauces. An excellent choice as you expand your cellar. FIND MORE CELLAR UP! SUGGESTIONS ONLINE.

HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT SANDS OF TIME SHIRAZ, MCLAREN VALE, 2020

Intense coffee and mocha aromas dominate the nose. The palate is light- to mediumbodied, supple with some red and black fruit emerging to complement coffee flavours. Relatively light in structure, it will be best drunk over the next few years.

Franc

Ripe cooked cherries with cherry menthol characterize the 2018 Cabernet Franc. It is light to medium bodied with soft tannins producing an easy drinking yet flavoursome wine. Herbal notes cede to lingering menthol flavours.

Chocolate, coffee, herbs and sweet cherry aromas complement one another and lead to a palate with fruits, plums and sour cherry. For the third year in a row, McLaren Vale experienced a drier than usual season restricting the vine’s vegetative growth and producing low yields of grapes. Matured in American oak vats and barrels for 18 months. The soils at Hastwell & Lightfoot are deep and sandy – some are pure sand down to 5-6 metres or more – brought in and dumped over millennia by prevailing westerlies from the coast some 10 kilometres away.

AUSTRALIA

Bec Hardy Wines

MCLAREN VALE

Since devoting themselves full time to Bec Hardy Wines, Bec and her husband Richard have led the company from strength to strength. The wines are delicious and the appointment of winemaker Bec Swincer means they will only continue to improve.

Bec is a business dynamo fully living up to the entrepreneurial spirit of previous generations of the Hardy family. Over the last year, she has been presented with various awards and recognized as one of South Australia’s finest young business people at the “40 under 40” and a National Recognition certificate from the Australian Export & Investment Awards. Bec is also a director at Nature Foundation – one of Australia’s largest private conservation landholders which champions sustainable nature conservation.

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

Great Sauvignon character with intense gooseberry aromas, it is really flavoursome with spices and blossom notes that linger on the tongue. One of my coups de coeur last year, the 2021 is equally delicious.

Grilled sardines with olive oil and lemon

An aromatic Pinot Gris with spring blossom, jasmine, fresh apple and talc aromas. It is light with an appealing lemony acidity.

2949 BEC HARDY WINES ROSÉ, ADELAIDE,

HARDY

2950

A touch of sweetness on the palate is balanced by the wine’s acidity and flavours of melon, peaches, white fruits and floral lanolin followed by a citrus pith finish.

One of only two rosés in this Cellar, Bec Hardy's rosé has delicate floral aromas leading to more fruit on the palate with fresh apple and raspberry. It is crisp and refreshing with a sour cranberry finish. A perfect sipping tonic at the end of a day.

An Aussie Pinot with lots of dark fruits, black cherry and savoury green leaf combined with smoke. It is a supple medium- to full-bodied style of Pinot, ready for early drinking with a very small amount of oak.

A delicious example of Mourvèdre with its characteristic savoury nose adding just a touch of leather to aromas of spicy dark fruits, chocolate and dried roses. It is medium bodied and smooth with more fruit and herbal flavours and some chewy tannins on the finish. Mourvèdre from this block is usually blended with Grenache and Syrah; however, the 2020 was so good that Bec decided to mature and bottle it as a single varietal.

Sweet fruit and wine gum aromas with fresh grassy notes precede a supple medium-bodied palate. This is an easy drinking Shiraz with some bitter fruits and astringency on the finish giving length.

2953

BEC HARDY WINES CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2020

Cabernet Sauvignon

$ 28 $ 168 2954

The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon has more weight than the Shiraz. Floral, green leaf and smoke aromas are followed by a smooth round wine with cherry menthol flavours.

2021-2024, M8 D9

18°C

cherry menthol 14%

BEC HARDY WINES SHIRAZ CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2020

Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon

$ 28 $ 168

A round, smooth wine with notes of hay, grass, lavender and cherries. Shiraz Cabernet blends are a classic in Australia.

and smooth 14.5%

2955

BEC HARDY WINES MCLAREN

VALE SHIRAZ & RESERVE SHIRAZ CASE

$ 46 $ 276

Shiraz is the mainstay black grape in Australia. It was one of the original varieties brought to Australia and is cultivated in all its wine regions. Shiraz is particularly suited to South Australia’s McLaren Vale where, according to specific site and soil characteristics, it naturally produces small berries and a range of wine styles.

THREE BOTTLES EACH SHIRAZ & RESERVE SHIRAZ

BEC HARDY WINES SHIRAZ, MCLAREN VALE, 2019

Shiraz

A vibrant full-bodied wine with black cherries, blackcurrants and brambles. It has a grainy texture with good acidity and bitter fruits on the finish. Delicious to drink now, it has potential for keeping. Produced from a number of blocks of Shiraz in McLaren Flat, Blewitt Springs and Kangarilla. It was part aged with new oak for 18 months.

2021-2026, M7 D9

BEC HARDY WINES RESERVE SHIRAZ, MCLAREN VALE, 2019

Shiraz

2019 Reserve Shiraz is supple and rich, although the nose is a little closed at present. Well balanced with sour and bitter cherries on the finish. The 2019 growing season started with mild weather but lower than average rainfall. Late-spring rain brought some relief and a heat wave in January was too early in the season to cause any damage. The Reserve was produced from the best parcels of Shiraz – these were matured in oak with 40% new oak hogsheads and 60% older oak.

AUSTRALIA

Geoff Hardy

KUITPO

Geoff Hardy quit the family business established by his great-greatgrandfather Thomas Hardy to pioneer in his own right. When he established the K1 vineyard at Kuitpo in the southern Adelaide Hills in 1987, it was the first commercial vineyard in the region. Kuitpo sits on a ridge between McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek and benefits from its elevation as well as the cooling influences of the Gulf Saint Vincent to the West and Lake Alexandrina to the southeast. The result is cooler summer temperatures with good diurnal shifts between day and night. The weather usually remains good late into autumn, allowing grapes to ripen slowly and develop maximum flavours.

Geoff is a viticulturist at heart and over the years has trialled many different varieties. Shane Harris, winemaker since 2006, complements Geoff’s expertise and is the only Australian to be named Winemaker of the Year three times by Australia’s Winestate magazine.

2959 GMH SHIRAZ, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2020

Shiraz

$ 28 $ 168

A medium- to full-bodied Shiraz with distinctly graphite notes combined with spices and dark fruit aromas. The palate is also marked by oak with pencil shavings and chewy rustic tannins which should mellow with some time in bottle.

2958 GMH MERITAGE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2020

Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec

$ 28 $ 168

Floral soap aromas combine with those of dark fruits which follow through onto the palate. Quite firm on the palate, it has some chewy tannins and bitterness on the finish. Produced from a majority of Petit Verdot, grown in Langhorne Creek, blended with 29% Merlot, 11% Malbec and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Korean-style pork medallions

2960 GMH CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2020

Cabernet Sauvignon

$ 28 $ 168

Relatively light compared to the previous two wines, GMH Cabernet Sauvignon has floral aromas with cherry and menthol flavours. It is medium bodied with a grainy texture and chewy tannin. Matured with French oak, the oak is less apparent.

and Cheddar meat

DID YOU KNOW?

You Had Me at Shiraz

by Louise Wilson MW

Among world-class wines such as Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Hunter Valley Semillon, Eden Valley Riesling and Rutherglen Muscat, what is it about Australia’s flagship variety, Shiraz, that has us raising our glass?

For many, it is Shiraz’s generosity, with deep purple hues, seductive aromas and flavours of blue, red and black fruit. Depending on where the vine is grown, its profile can also include savory bacon notes or the spicy bite of black pepper. In southern France, where the cultivar is known as Syrah, wines tend to lean toward savory while the Australian expression is decisively more fruit driven.

Across the many wine growing regions of Australia, Shiraz entices us with its range of styles. In the Barossa Valley, Shiraz-based wines are rich and powerful, sometimes blended with Cabernet Sauvignon or Grenache and Mataro, utilizing their complementary characteristics. In the cooler climate of neighbouring Eden Valley, highlights of pepper and herb shine through Shiraz’s elegant black fruit. In the Hunter Valley, Shiraz is relatively savoury with red berry aromas and flavours, while notes of mocha and blueberry are the hallmarks of the wines of McLaren Vale.

This malleable grape can be vinified into an easy-drinking, valuepriced wine with approachable tannins and welcoming fruit, making it an ideal crowd pleaser. Alternatively, Shiraz is capable of being crafted into an age-worthy, complex and well-structured wine, which only reveals its true potential after years of cellaring. One tool at the winemaker’s disposal is the grape's affinity for oak. Extended time in new American or French oak barriques elevates the fruit with notes of coconut, vanilla and spice.

Shiraz charms us further with its food matching abilities. Lighter examples are enjoyable with or without food. Juicy, fruit-driven wines are the perfect partner for Tuesday night’s pepperoni pizza or the weekend BBQ. In more robust styles, the warmth of Shiraz’s flavours, its touch of spice and full body are a wonderful complement for braised meats or a hearty stew, while more tannic wines can enhance the finest cuts of beef.

On a personal note, Shiraz plays a special role in my own ongoing journey of wine discovery. My first experience detecting an aroma other than simply “wine” was thanks to a distinctive note of ripe blackberry wafting from my glass of Australian Shiraz. This “ah ha” moment still resonates with me. Many years and many wines later, it’s still true; you had me at Shiraz.

Louise Wilson MW lives in the Niagara region and is one of ten Masters of Wine based in Canada. She has worked in a number of different fields including export, retail, hospitality and education. One of the highlights of her journey to becoming a Master of Wine was the honour of receiving the Yalumba Scholarship and having the opportunity to visit Australia’s oldest family-owned winery.

THREE BOTTLES EACH MIDDLE HILL SHIRAZ & GEOFF HARDY SHIRAZ

A spicy Shiraz with incense, raisins and black cherry aromas. It is light to medium bodied with a grainy texture and some grip on the finish. On the Middle Hill plot, vines are planted on the shallowest soils of the estate with crop levels self regulating accordingly. A small amount of Viognier was included in the blend and 15% of Shiraz was left as whole bunches.

Deeper in colour, with intense aromas, this is a more structured Shiraz. Ripe cherry menthol and mint are complemented by meaty leather notes. It is medium to full bodied with a supple mid palate and overall elegant feel. Coming from Shiraz vines planted in 1989, these low yielding plants are to the left of the driveway on entering the property. It was fermented in small open fermenters then matured in French oak of various provenances and sizes for eighteen months with 30% new.

Sauvignon Blanc

$ 34 $ 204

An interesting and distinctive wine with usual gooseberry and white peach aromas combined with curry leaves, herbs and saffron adding another dimension. It is crisp with sour lime and dill flavours and a long lingering finish. Produced from the oldest Sauvignon Blanc vines at K1 planted in 1987. 2021 was a super vintage for the variety with good natural rainfall combined with a cooler longer ripening period than is usual.

2962 K1 BY GEOFF HARDY NV SPARKLING, ADELAIDE HILLS

Pinot Noir, Chardonnay

$ 44 $ 264

Pinot character shows through in this sparkler with restrained but mellow honeyed and spicy aromas. It has a creamy texture pierced by a firm acidity which creates presence and depth on the palate. It was made from 55% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay handpicked separately and pressed. Juices from the two varieties were combined for the first fermentation and matured on lees for nine months before secondary ferment.

curry leaves,

white peach 6°C

dill, gooseberry, [2.00]

lime, [2.40]

Crispy Thai spring rolls with honey-soy dipping sauce

K1 SINGLE VINEYARD GRUNER VELTLINER, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2021

Grüner Veltliner $ 34

Miso-smoked trout

Another super-interesting white wine from Shane with spice, marzipan, jasmine, dried camomile and honey aromas. It is medium bodied with earthy spicy notes and fruit flavours. It has a distinct mineral acidity and lovely depth. Gruner Veltliner is not a common variety anywhere outside of Austria, although it is gaining traction in Adelaide Hills. The quality of this wine makes me wonder why more isn’t made. Planted at K1 in 2008-2009, Geoff was amongst the first wineries in Australia to release a Gruner Veltliner wine. 2021-2023, M8 D9

Pan-roasted chicken thighs with lemon dill jus 2021-2023, M8 D9

OUTSTANDING COOL CLIMATE WINES FROM THE ADELAIDE HILLS

K1

2965

GEOFF HARDY CHARDONNAY, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2019 Chardonnay

$ 44 $ 264

A floral wine with peony and rose combined with smoky notes. It is linear in structure with some grainy tannins and a slightly austere sour acidity on the finish. Cabernet Sauvignon was planted in various blocks on the estate between 1988 and 2000. Fermentation temperatures were allowed to increase towards the end of ferment up to 32ºC. It was matured with 30% new French oak using a mix of barrels, hogsheads and staves from Nievres, Fontainebleu and Allier forest.

Bone-in ribeye with garlic-butter baste

This wine is a combination of fruit, oak and minerality. Aromas of cooked white fruits, fresh nectarines, pâtisserie and toast give lots of appeal. The palate is tight with pure flinty and smoky flavours and great depth. Chardonnay was fermented in barrel with 30% new oak. Shane treats each barrel as a separate entity choosing to either go through full, partial or no malolactic fermentation according to taste. The wine was matured on yeast lees for nine months with regular stirring the first couple of months.

2968 HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY MUSCAT, SOUTH AUSTRALIA

Muscat

$ 58 $ 116

2021-2026, M8 D9

2967

K1 SINGLE VINEYARD TEMPRANILLO, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2021

Tempranillo

$ 34 $ 204

This is a supple juicy wine with blackcurrant and other forest fruit flavours and was produced without any oak to retain maximum freshness. After fermentation, the wine was racked and bottled early.

2021-2024, M8 D9

Intense raisin, dates and smoke aromas combine to a complex bouquet and overall stunning wine. Its sweetness is nicely offset by a tangy acidity creating a harmonious balance. The same complex flavours of raisins and Christmas cake combine with bitter coffee, toffee, orange and liquorice on the palate. This is a wine with great depth. Labelled as non vintage, it is a blend of fortified Muscats with 48% being 18 years and older. The oldest elements in the blend were purchased by Geoff in the 1970s when he left the Hardy’s family business and started producing small amounts in the rafter of a shed.

HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY SHIRAZ, MCLAREN VALE, 2019

Concentrated flavours with soft sweet fruits, it is supple and very approachable. Shiraz grapes were sourced from subregions of McLaren Vale, Blewitt Springs, McLaren Flat and Seaview.

HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY LAGREIN, LIMESTONE COAST/ADELAIDE HILLS, 2019

Lagrein

Dense, almost black in colour, it has lots of ripe sweet fruits on the nose with blueberries and blackberries mingling with notes of sweet pipe tobacco. Black fruits follow onto the palate with sour blackcurrant and some rasping tannin. 90% of grapes were grown at Wirrega Vineyards in Limestone Coast giving opulent mid palate fruits. The balance grown in the Adelaide Hills was fermented separately uisng 15% whole clusters.

HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY DURIF, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2019

An interesting bouquet of raisins, Christmas cake, nutmeg and lavender. It is medium bodied with a tart acidity, sour blackcurrant and blackberry flavours. Durif (a.k.a. Petite Sirah) is a late-ripening variety more frequently used in Australia to produce fortified wine in Rutherglen in Victoria. Autumn conditions in southern Adelaide Hills allow the grapes to fully ripen, and Shane believes this to be the only planting of Durif in the region.

2970

CORAL REEF VARIETALS SHIRAZ CABERNET, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2021

Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon

$ 22 $ 264 NEW

grippy wine with sour blackberry flavours and a firm chewy finish.

OPIMIAN QUALITY YOU CAN TRUST

Cheese and charcuterie board

2971

NEW

CORAL REEF VARIETALS CHARDONNAY-SEMILLON, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2021

Chardonnay, Semillon

$ 22 $ 264

Easy drinking white with honey dew melon and stone fruit aromas. It is supple with a sour lemon and lime acidity and crisp finish.

2022-2023, M8 D9

Honeydew melon, stone fruits 6°C

Citrus, [3.00] 12.5%

salad

Honeyed and spicy aromas with more nectarines and peaches on the palate. This is a smooth wine with some pithiness on the finish. Lots of floral and red fruit aromas with mulberries and violets. This is a supple smooth and flavoursome Aussie Shiraz.

AUSTRALIA

Briar Ridge Vineyard

HUNTER VALLEY

Briar Ridge is located in the Mount View subregion of the Hunter Valley in New South Wales, some 160 kilometres directly north of Sydney. The region has a long viticultural history associated with James Busby, the so-called father of Australian wine. Briar Ridge is owned by the Davis family. The family also own vineyards in the cool climate region of Orange at altitude in the Great Dividing Range and at Wrattonbully in Limestone Coast in South Australia.

BRIAR RIDGE OLD VINES SHIRAZ, ORANGE/WRATTONBULLY/ HUNTER VALLEY, 2018

An elegant Shiraz, lighter in body and showing some restraint. It has red fruit aromas of redcurrants, wild strawberries and goji berries with milk chocolate. It has a soft silky texture with light tannins and nice blackcurrant finish. It was produced from a combination of grapes from mature vineyard blocks in each of Briar Ridge’s three estates in Hunter Valley, Orange and Wrattonbully: each was harvested separately and fermented using a yeast selected specifically for Shiraz.

BRIAR RIDGE BIG BULLY CABERNET SAUVIGNON, WRATTONBULLY, 2019

2977 BRIAR RIDGE LIMITED RELEASE SHIRAZ, HUNTER VALLEY, 2020

2974

Sauvignon $ 36 $ 216 2976

Cabernet Sauvignon $ 47 $ 282

As the name suggests, this is a big full-bodied wine. On the nose, crushed red fruits and strawberries jostle for position complemented by a touch of mint. It is mellow with a smooth, supple palate which is rich and has good mid-palate weight. Not yet at its peak, it is nevertheless deliciously approachable with bitter cherry flavours. Cabernet Sauvignon is grown at Wrattonbully, a region within Limestone Coast on well-drained fertile red clay soils over limestone similar to neighbouring Coonawarra. It was matured for a year in new and one-year-old French oak barrels for 16 months.

Oodles of spice, leather and smoky bacon aromas lie over a black cherry fruit background. It is a supple wine with good mid-palate weight and fruit leading to a bitter chocolate finish. The firm tannin structure creates a great framework balanced by lingering fruits. 2020 saw high temperatures and dry conditions in the Hunter Valley. Briar Ridge vineyards, in the Mount View subregion of Hunter Valley, are on well-drained sandy loam soils with controlled drip irrigation. Hunter Valley, north of Sydney, is Australia’s most historic viticultural region with vines first planted there in the 1830s by James Busby.

BRIAR RIDGE COLD SOAKED CABERNET SAUVIGNON, ORANGE, 2018

The 2018 Cold Soaked Cabernet Sauvignon is outstanding – the best vintage I’ve tasted of this wine. Deep in colour, it has earth, dark fruits, graphite, floral violet and sweet fruit aromas. It is smooth and round with nice bitter cherry flavours. This is a really ripe style, at the same time it is reminiscent of Bordeaux. It is well balanced, elegant and with great depth. Grapes were grown at Briar Ridge’s vineyard in Orange in New South Wales. The region is at altitude with vines cultivated some 750 metres above sea level benefitting from cool-climate conditions and soils derived from volcanic basalt rock. 2018 was a drought year, with the region also experiencing some unusually hot days during harvest. “Cold soak” refers to the practice of crushing the grapes and allowing the juices to steep on skins prior to the onset of fermentation: this was done for three days to enhance colour and flavour extraction.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Chapman Grove Wines

MARGARET RIVER

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

The vineyards of Western Australia are clustered in the state’s southwestern corner close to the coast. Its most renowned region, Margaret River south of Perth, is similarly as far from Adelaide as Osoyoos is from Niagara: it’s no wonder its wines have their own distinctive style which is different to other Australian wines.

Margaret River wine region, in the far southwest of the state, lies on a rectangular peninsula that juts into the ocean and stretches 100 kilometres from Cape Naturaliste in the north to Cape Leeuwin in the south. Its maritime climate creates cooler conditions than other Australian wine regions which are the closest Australia has to a Bordeaux climate. Margaret River produces some of Australia’s finest wines, restrained and more akin to European wine styles. The region is also known for its beaches, surf and natural beauty.

Ron Fraser found his perfect spot in Margaret River at Rosa Glen and began planting vines in 1997. It was only some years later, when the vines reached maturity and were producing consistently high-quality grapes, that he started to make his own wines employing the skills of local star winemaker Bruce Dukes.

2979 ATTICUS THE FINCH COLLECTION SYRAH, MARGARET RIVER, 2020

Youthful cherry and mixed forest fruit aromas are quite simple yet concentrated. It is supple with flavours of mint and liquorice developing in the glass. The 2020 vintage in Margaret River was characterized with low rainfall and warmer than average temperatures in spring and summer leading to an early vintage with good quality grapes.

2980

ATTICUS GRANDE RESERVE CABERNETS, MARGARET RIVER, 2018, WOOD CASE

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot $ 201 $ 402

Intense blackcurrant, vanilla and nutmeg precede a supple palate with fine velvet texture. It is smooth, oozing more youthful blackcurrant flavours and smokiness. A mediumbodied wine which is complex and elegant.

2978

ATTICUS THE FINCH COLLECTION RED BLEND, MARGARET RIVER, 2018

Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot

Meat-sauce strozzapreti

Not yet at its peak, it is starting to show nice tertiary notes and has lots of potential. Woodland aromas combine with blackcurrants and smoke. This is a dense and structured wine with a lovely silky texture. More ripe blackcurrant flavours on the palate cede to a firm acidity and lingering finish. Produced from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it was matured in French oak for 12 months with 30% new.

CHAPMAN GROVE RESERVE CABERNET SAUVIGNON, ESTATE GROWN, MARGARET RIVER, 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon $ 51 $ 306

The 2017 is restrained in aroma with some notes of honey and spice. It has a piercing acidity which gives the wine depth and a Chablislike purity and structure. It remains youthful with citrus flavours of mandarin and lemon curd evolving to create a wine with good depth and a lingering pithy finish. Grapes were handpicked and fermented in barrel. It was matured for ten months in oak with 40% new and 60% second use.

Golden yellow in colour and perfectly mature. It has intense spicy aromas with toast, caramel, roasted pineapple and some struckflint character. Nice tropical fruit flavours are balanced by a lemony acidity. Produced from the Gingin clone of Chardonnay introduced into Western Australia in 1957, it is the dominant clone for producing elegant complex wines. 2014 was a great year for whites in Margaret River.

Typically Margaret River in style, it has a cool fresh character with a finegrained texture. Earthy fruits, mulberries and plum aromas are complemented on the palate with violets and savoury notes. It has a marked acidity giving some austerity with chewy tannins on the finish and was oakmatured using a combination of old barrels and staves.

2984

CHAPMAN GROVE SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMILLON, ESTATE GROWN, MARGARET RIVER, 2018

Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon

$ 28 $ 168

Nicely developed with broad structure and ripe tropical fruits. It has limes, gooseberry and cassis on the nose. The rich viscous body is balanced with a crisp acidity and finish. It is a blend of 60% Sauvignon and 40% Sémillon.

2985 DREAMING DOG CABERNET SHIRAZ, MARGARET RIVER, 2017

Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz

$ 27 $ 162

2022-2023, M8 D9

Gooseberry, cassis 6°C

Tropical fruits, [1.30] 13%

Goat’s cheese salad

Some notes of undergrowth combine with blackcurrant aromas. The 2017 blend is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with 18% Shiraz. It was matured in a combination of used French oak barrels and staves and has some firm grainy tannins adding astringency on the finish.

2986

2021-2023, M8 D9

Blackcurrant, undergrowth 18°C

Musk, grainy texture 13%

Baked Portobello mushrooms stuffed with Parmesan

DREAMING DOG CABERNET SHIRAZ MERLOT, MARGARET RIVER, 2018

Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot

$ 28 $ 168

A higher proportion of Shiraz and a dash of Merlot give the 2018 Dreaming Dog more weight and fruit. It has intense green leaf, dark fruits and blackcurrant pastel aroma. Sweet and sour black fruits are in abundance on the palate with blueberries and blackberries. It has a fine silky texture and lingering blackcurrant flavour and is a blend of 53% Cabernet, 42% Shiraz and 5% Merlot.

2021-2024, M8 D9

Dark fruits, green leaves 18°C

Blueberries, blackberries 13%

Aged Welsh Cheddar

A Rich History of Winemaking

Burgundy, in central eastern France, has the longest, most detailed documented history of any wine region dating back to the 13th century. Its history, its villages, the architecture with its coloured patterned roofs and Romanesque churches – and of course its wines – make it like no other region. The terroirs of Burgundy have been inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

The vintage effect and the specific terroirs are all important in Burgundy. The best vineyards lie in a narrow band on the east side of the escarpment, mid-slope facing south or southeast enjoying maximum exposure to the sun. The climate in Burgundy is continental with short hot summers and long cold winters. Climate conditions can deteriorate quite rapidly at harvest time in autumn and getting the grapes ripe can be problematic some years – hence, early ripening varieties Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are planted. Spring frosts, which have always been a threat, are an increasing problem.

Knowledge built up over centuries by monks led to an understanding of the quality potential of different plots. A classification according to soil type, angle and exposition creates a hierarchy of quality. There are 44 villages in the Côte-d'Or that denote a particular style; Premier Crus are a notch above and those of the highest potential are classed as Grand Crus. At the time of the French Revolution, most vineyards owned by monasteries and nobility were distributed. Napoleonic succession laws led to further fragmentation; hence, for a given “climat” or Cru, there are usually a large number of growers working with different philosophies and access to resources.

DOMAINE DES TERRES GENTILLES / MAISON ALPHONSE JACQUIER BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY CASE

$ 37 $ 222

THREE BOTTLES EACH BOURGOGNE BLANC & BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY

DOMAINE DES TERRES GENTILLES

BOURGOGNE BLANC, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOP, 2020

Chardonnay

The Mâconnais region – named after the town of Mâcon – is some 100 kilometres south of Beaune and the Côte-d'Or. As prices of wine and land increased in the most highly sought after Appellations in Côte-d'Or, the Mâconnais has seen renewed interest and investment in it. Martine Boivin at Domaine des Terres Gentilles, in the village of Azé, has 30 hectares. Her 2020 Bourgogne, fermented with no use of oak, has aromas of fresh apple, lemons with some almond notes.

MAISON ALPHONSE JACQUIER BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOP, 2020

Chardonnay

Medium bodied with fresh fruits, lemon and verbena aromas. More tropical and pineapple flavours emerge on the palate with a nice citrus pith finish.

and

A Burgundy Bucket List

Burgundy wines are known around the world.

Bourgogne is a historic wine region in France, with viticulture dating as far back as the 2nd century. Covering 230 kilometres from north to south, Burgundy produces a large diversity of wines, mostly made up from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

The region is made up of distinct areas, including Chablis in the far north, the Côte-d'Or, the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais to the south. The most highly sought after and prestigious wines are made in the Côte-d'Or. The Côte-d'Or itself is made up of the Côte de Nuits, stretching from north of Beaune up to Dijon and named after the small town of Nuits-Saint-Georges, and the Côte de Beaune which runs down to Santenay and includes famous white Appellations such as Puligny-Montrachet. Behind the main escarpment, in parallel on higher ground, run the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune and Hautes-Côtes de Nuits.

Our Opimian producers hail from all parts of Burgundy, from Domaine des Terres Gentilles in the south to new producer Mischief & Mayhem's Gevrey-Chambertin vineyards in the northern part of the region. The culturally rich wine region is a traveller's delight: by foot, on a bicycle or even by boat, visitors get to experience the beauty of the region and enjoy some of the best wines in the world.

did you know?

Montrachet comes from an old Burgundy dialect, meaning "bald mountain". Nothing but vines grew here. Montrachet covers 8 hectares in Puligny and Chassagne and produces some of the greatest Chardonnay in the word.

OUR BURGUNDY PRODUCERS

1. Domaine des Terres Gentilles (p41)

2. Maison Alphonse Jacquier (p41)

3. Domaine Bonnardot (p44)

4. Domaine Desertaux Ferrand (p48)

5. Domaine Thevenot Le Brun (p52)

6. Domaine Dubois Bernard & Fils (p54)

7. Mischief and Mayhem (p58)

Nuits-Saint-Georges

Chalon-sur-Saône

DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS SAVIGNYLÈS-BEAUNE, AOP, 2018, LOT 3012, P56

BONNARDOT CÔTE DE NUITSVILLAGES, AOP, 2019, LOT 2990, P45

DOMAINE DES TERRES GENTILLES

BOURGOGNE ROUGE, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOP, 2020

Floral soapy aromas precede quite a firm palate with some austere tannins giving presence and a slightly chewy finish.

Pan-seared Arctic char on Salade Niçoise

THREE BOTTLES EACH BOURGOGNE ROUGE & BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR

MAISON ALPHONSE JACQUIER

BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOP, 2020

Appealing red apple and cherries complement floral notes. It is medium bodied with succulent fruits mid palate and a grainy texture.

Grilled sweetbreads with apple-onion

DOMAINE DES TERRES GENTILLES / MAISON ALPHONSE JACQUIER BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR CASE

38 $ 228

BURGUNDY

Domaine Bonnardot

HAUTES-CÔTES DE NUITS

Danièle Bonnardot was brought up in a small wine-growing family in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits at Villers-la-Faye with her two siblings. Despite always being interested in the family business, the size and scale of the vineyard and the seemingly natural succession that her brother would take over the estate from her parents, as the fourth generation, Danièle ploughed her own furrow outside of wine living and working abroad. In an unexpected twist of life, she found herself running the estate in 2008. With her came a new, more open perspective which led to improved wine quality. Over the years, she has slowly purchased more vineyards.

2990 DOMAINE BONNARDOT CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES, AOP, 2019

2991

A medium- to full-bodied Côtes de NuitsVillages, it has restrained spicy aromas with red fruits, vanilla and oak. The palate is supple and rich with a good tannic frame complemented by lingering bitter cherry flavours. Côtes de Nuits-Villages wines are produced from grapes from designated villages in the north and south of the Côtes de Nuits. In this case, Danièle’s vineyards are in the south at Comblanchien and Corgoloin, roughly half way between Beaune and Nuits-Saint-Georges. Vines are on average 70 years old. Classic vinification was carried out with wines matured in oak using 20% new.

DOMAINE BONNARDOT BOURGOGNE HAUTES-CÔTES DE NUITS, "L'ÂGE MÛRE", AOP, 2019

312

The heart of the Bonnardot estate and winery is at Villers-la-Faye in the HautesCôtes de Nuits on higher land behind the main Côte-d'Or escarpment. The higher altitude in the Hautes Côtes results in a cooler climate. Vines are trained and trellised higher with widely spaced rows at three metres apart making them less sensitive to frost. Wild strawberry and vanilla aromas lead to a smooth supple palate. It is well balanced with crushed mulberry and griotte cherry flavours.

Smoked baby back ribs

2992

DOMAINE BONNARDOT LADOIX "LES RANCHES", AOP, 2019

Pinot Noir

$ 78 $ 468

One of Danièle’s vineyard purchases, the Ladoix vines are in two parcels at Les Ranches lieu-dit facing east-southeast on the mid slope at 240 metres. Fifty-year-old vines are densely planted with 10,000 vines per hectare. Bright ruby in colour, the 2019 has intense aromas of wild strawberries and menthol with some savoury leafy notes. Sweet fruit flavours on the palate complemented with liquorice and spices produce a broad mid palate and long finish. Approachable now with cellaring potential.

2993

DOMAINE BONNARDOT BEAUNE PREMIER CRU BELISSAND, AOP, 2018

Pinot Noir

$ 94 $ 564

Belissand is a classified Premier Cru vineyard south of the town of Beaune on the route towards Pommard. The vineyard, purchased in 2012, was planted in 1966 on deep clay limestone soils. After a series of unfortunate harvests when the vineyard was affected by frost and hail, the 2018 is a powerful and muscular wine. It has a spicy, oaky nose with hints of recessive red fruits. It is medium bodied with griotte, bitter cherry and almond characters emerging on the palate and proceeding to a long cherry menthol finish. Matured in barrel for 18 months.

Époisses de Bourgogne

CLASSIC BURGUNDIES FROM NOBLE TERROIRS

2994

DOMAINE BONNARDOT BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ, AOP, 2019 Aligoté

Danièle is a member of Les Aligoteurs –an association of growers with the aim of defending, enhancing and promoting the Aligoté grape by making characterful wines. The thin acidic wines of previous times made from high yields of Aligoté were best drunk with a dash of Crème de Cassis as Kir. Her 2019 has aromas of malt, oatmeal and tinned grapefruit. It is smooth and round on the palate with refreshing crisp sour lemon finish adding length. Aligoté is a crossing between Pinot Noir and Gouais that is grown mainly in Burgundy. It is a vigorous variety, meaning that if left to its own devices, high yields of grapes can result. However, when mastered accordingly interesting flavoursome wines are made. Domaine Bonnardot has two parcels of Aligoté cultivated at 370 metres which Danièle harvests late to maximize aromas.

2995 DOMAINE BONNARDOT LADOIX "LES RANCHES", AOP, 2017, MAGNUM WOOD CASE

2996

DOMAINE BONNARDOT BEAUNE PREMIER CRU BELISSAND, AOP, 2015, MAGNUM WOOD CASE Pinot Noir

A wine which is crystalline in structure with good depth. It has mellow spicy aromas with wild strawberry followed by a marked acidity on the palate. It is firm, slightly austere and will benefit from more time in bottle before drinking, particularly in magnum form which naturally develops more slowly.

248 $ 248

Lots of oaky aromas –cloves, incense and nuts – are present but don’t dominate sweet fruit aromas. More succulent fruits are apparent on the palate, which is brimming with flavour supported by tannin structure. Some astringency is countered by fruit character creating a wine with weight and presence. As it matures, the oak should integrate further becoming smoother and developing a more complex bouquet.

BURGUNDY

Domaine DésertauxFerrand CÔTE D'OR

Vincent Désertaux naturally has a very sunny disposition. It was a pleasure to meet him when I dropped in at short notice, in October 2020, on a day when it was raining cats and dogs. We got soaked merely running 30 seconds from the car to the winery: Vincent was there to greet us beaming from ear to ear. The 2020 harvest was in, he was racking his wines to barrel, and in his view it was a super vintage! And from what I have subsequently tasted, I concur. On top of that, Vincent’s 2019 wines are outstanding. It’s very unusual that two wines from a single producer blow me away – but that’s exactly what happened with Vincent’s Côte de Nuits-Villages Blanc 2019 and his Pommard 2019 featured in this Cellar Offering.

MISS THIS PRODUCER'S PREMIUM PINOT NOIR ON PAGE 63.

Produced from a single three-hectare vineyard site, Les Perrières is in the south of the Côte de Nuits-Villages Appellation. It is a vivid deep purple colour with rich youthful red fruit aromas of plums and damsons with a touch of graphite. It is supple, medium bodied with more sweet and bitter cherry fruits on the palate. A dense wine with ripe fruits and nice acidity.

Quite light in colour, it is translucent with a bright ruby hue and is brimming with aromas of wild strawberry, spices and floral notes. A classic Burgundian style, elegant and fine in texture.

Pinot Noir

An immediate Coup de Coeur, this fragrant wine has lots of appeal. Bright in colour, it is a translucent ruby. Peony, red berries, rose petal and hay with a touch of mint complement one another in the bouquet. The palate is supple with succulent fruits and a velvet texture which together create a smooth, round impression and lead to a menthol finish. The village of Pommard lies just south of Beaune. The Appellation produces almost exclusively red wines and some of the most serious of the Côte de Beaune. Vincent acquired a small plot of 0.85 hectares from old family contacts now retired. Grapes were picked by hand, de-stemmed and crushed. After cold soak for three to five days, fermentation was carried out by indigenous yeast followed by maturation in oak with 40% new for 12 months.

2020 Aligoté has subtle aromas of vanilla custard with some flinty mineral notes. It is smooth and round with good weight and body. Fermented and matured in tank for eight months with no use of oak.

3002

Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay

Intense white fruit, nectarine and honey aromas precede a smooth, creamy texture. It is supple with a racy crisp acidity evolving in the mouth and a fresh lime finish. Produced from 85% Pinot Blanc with 15% chardonnay.

Escargots à la bourguignonne

Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc

A second Coup de Cœur for Vincent. This wine has spices, vanilla, fresh apple and honey aromas. It is rich with a smooth texture; round and broad, but the lemon and lime acidity keeps it from being flabby. Lots of white fruits, toast, vanilla and other spices linger on the palate. An unusual blend of 70% Chardonnay with 30% Pinot Blanc, grapes were hand-picked, pressed and the juice left to settle. The clear racked grape must was fermented in oak barrels using 25% new and matured for 10 months. Not only is the use of Pinot Blanc rare now in Burgundy, but only a very small proportion of Côtes de Nuits-Villages vineyards produce white wine. This really is a specialty of Domaine Désertaux-Ferrand.

3005

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES PREMIER CRU LES CHABOEUFS, AOP, 2019

Nuits-Saint-Georges is a major viticultural hub in Burgundy and the town that lends its name to the Côtes de Nuits – the northern half of the Côte-d'Or that runs from Dijon down to Beaune. The Appellation has a good number of Premier Cru sites, most of which including Les Chaboeufs are located in a strip to the south of the town on the mid slope of the escarpment. The macroclimate in Chaboeuf is slightly cooler than neighbouring crus due to landscape and downdrafts. Vincent Désertaux farms 0.37 hectares of 50-year-old vines. His 2019 has aromas of fresh herbs, dill and tarragon mixed with red apples. It is supple with succulent mid-palate fruits with red, sour and bitter cherries all present with a menthol finish. A weighty wine with structure.

BURGUNDY

Domaine Thevenot Le Brun

HAUTES-CÔTES DE NUITS

Domaine Thevenot-Le-Brun is based at Marey-lès-Fussey at the southern end of the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. It has 30 hectares of vineyards all located within two kilometres of the winery. Napoleonic inheritance laws mean that vineyard sites in Burgundy are typically divided into tiny plots owned by a multitude of growers. It is extremely unusual to find a single wholly-owned vineyard – or “monopole” – yet this is the case with the seven-hectare Clos de Vignon. At Marey-lès-Fussey, the plot is on a steep hill enclosed within a ancient stone wall. Situated close to an old abbey, the plot was planted to vines in the 13th century. Phylloxera in the early 20th century led to vines being ripped out. Maurice Thevenot rediscovered the Clos in the 1960s and it was replanted with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

DOMAINE THEVENOT-LE BRUN BOURGOGNE HAUTES CÔTES DE NUITS, BLANC, "CLOS DU VIGNON", MONOPOLE, AOP, 2019

Chardonnay

$ 57 $ 342

2019 is showing mellow aromas with spices, flint, lime and honey. It is rich and smooth with a tangy acidity. A classy wine with great depth and lingering flavours.

3010

DOMAINE THEVENOT-LE BRUN BOURGOGNE HAUTES CÔTES DE NUITS, BLANC, AOP, 2020

Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay

$ 43 $ 258

A light and refreshing wine with fresh apple and pear flavours, a crisp grippy acidity and flavours of sour lemon and lime on the finish. Pinot Blanc grapes from vines planted about 10 years ago in the Hautes Cotes were complemented by grapes from 20-year-old Chardonnay vines situated on a lower slope. A very small amount of the wine spent eight months in oak and underwent malolactic fermentation.

DOMAINE THEVENOT-LE BRUN BOURGOGNE HAUTES CÔTES DE NUITS, ROUGE, "CLOS DU VIGNON", MONOPOLE, AOP, 2019

Clos de Vignon is a steep south-southeast facing slope with very little topsoil and lots of stones forcing vine roots to drill deep down for water. Five hectares Pinot Noir were planted at Clos du Vignon by Maurice Thevenot over 55 years ago; half of them were replaced in 2001. 2019 is a savoury wine with some game and marzipan aromas. It is light, elegant with a lifted acidity and some simple red fruit flavours matured in old oak barrels.

BURGUNDY

Domaine Dubois

Bernard

& Fils

CHOREY-LÈS-BEAUNE

Jacques Dubois continues the family tradition passed from father to son since the early 1800s. He farms 13 hectares of vines in four Appellations: Chorey-lès-Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Aloxe-Corton and Beaune, all in close proximity (around five kilometres between them) to the north of Beaune town. Jacques harvests all grapes by hand and makes his wines at his little winery on the outskirts of Chorey-lès-Beaune.

DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS SAVIGNY-LÈSBEAUNE, "LES RATAUSSES", AOP, 2020

3011 DOMAINE DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS CASE $ 74 $ 444

THREE BOTTLES EACH LES RATAUSSES & LES BRUNETTES

DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS ALOXE-CORTON, "LES BRUNETTES", AOP, 2020

Fresh, youthful aromas of red and black fruits lead to a supple medium-bodied palate. It is well balanced with ripe fruit flavours of red cherry and strawberry mid palate and the structure to develop. Les Ratausses is a “climat” at the eastern end of the Appellation. Vines are around fifty years old. Tasted as a barrel sample, it will remain in oak a total of twelve months with 25% new.

Intense ripe forest fruit aromas with some yeasty notes lead to a soft rich palate. This medium-bodied wine is characterized by its velvet texture. More ripe fruit flavours are in abundance on the palate with cherries, raspberries and strawberry. It is succulent and well balanced showing breeding and depth. It was produced from grapes from 80-year-old vines planted at Les Brunettes in Aloxe-Corton. The Appellation is named after the penultimate village of the Côte de Beaune before it becomes the Côte de Nuits. Previously known as Aloxe, Corton was appended in the 19th century and is a reference to the hill of Corton famous for its Grand Cru vineyards.

3012 DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE, AOP, 2018

Chardonnay

$ 70 $ 420

A wine with great balance and depth –this is what white Burgundy is all about! Intense aromas of spices, vanilla, honey and pineapple lead to supple smooth palate. It has a tangy acidity which keeps the wine fresh and lively. Only about 10% of wine produced in Savigny-lès-Beaune is white – and this is a real treat. Chardonnay was planted approximately 40 years ago. Grapes were picked by hand, pressed, fermented and matured in oak barrels. Barrels were made from oak from the Allier forest in central France with 25% new.

3013 DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS, BEAUNE 1ER CRU, LES BRESSANDES, AOP, 2020

Pinot Noir

$ 88 $ 528

Premier Cru “Les Bressandes” is a 17-hectare plot located northeast of Beaune and which sits quite high up on the escarpment at the foot of the Montagne de Beaune. Deep in colour, this has a more savoury character than Jacques’ other wines with meaty animal and black tea aromas laid over a fruit background. It is firm with a grainy texture and some bitter fruits on the finish.

VERTICAL CASE

3014 DOMAINE DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS VERTICAL TASTING CASE

$ 90 $ 270

The Savigny-Lès-Beaune Premier Cru vineyards are located in two distinct groups. One, which includes Clos des Guettes, is on the south-facing hillside opposite the Corton hill, the other on the slopes of Mont Battois between Beaune and Savigny. Aux Guettes has a total of 14 hectares immediately east of Savigny village.

DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS SAVIGNY-LÈSBEAUNE 1ER CRU, "CLOS DES GUETTES", AOP, 2018

DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS SAVIGNY-LÈSBEAUNE 1ER CRU, "CLOS DES GUETTES", AOP, 2019

A pale translucent colour, the 2018 has red fruits with some leather, spice and dried rose petal aromas. It is light bodied, supple initially evolving in the mouth to reveal a grainy texture with bitter cherries and savoury notes on the finish.

ONE BOTTLE EACH 2018, 2019 & 2020

2019 is deeper in colour, a reflection of the smaller vintage perhaps, with similar spices and some smoky aromas. It is relatively light with good succulent fruit mid palate and bitter cherry on the finish.

Aged Camembert

DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS SAVIGNY-LÈSBEAUNE 1ER CRU, "CLOS DES GUETTES", AOP, 2020

Youthful aromas of red and black fruits lead to a more structured wine. It is medium bodied, supple with ripe fruits on the mid palate including red cherry and strawberry. Well balanced with intense cherry menthol flavours.

BURGUNDY

NEW PRODUCER

Mischief and Mayhem

ALOXE-CORTON

Michael Ragg and Fiona Traill-Stevenson moved to Burgundy full time in the spring of 2003. They cofounded Mischief and Mayhem from scratch and over the best part of two decades have gradually grown this into a Domaine and micro-négociant, with a winery in the beautiful village of AloxeCorton, which is also where they live. Michael had previously worked for UK fine-wine merchant Berry Bros & Rudd. Both are dedicated to producing wines of the highest quality from across the region. In the beginning, the company purchased grapes from growers in key villages; then in 2012, they purchased their first plot in Aloxe-Corton. The following year, an additional vineyard in SavignyLès-Beaune was acquired and more recently an exceptional site in Puligny-Montrachet.

Deep in colour with ripe fruit red apple aromas, this is a medium- to full-bodied Pinot. It has a supple mid palate with good structure and a firm acidity conferring the potential for cellaring. Grapes came from selected plots in the Côte de Nuits, Mercurey, Rully, Aloxe-Corton and Brochon with an average vine age of 49 years. Most of the wine was fermented in stainless steel with the 10% Aloxe-Corton component matured in one- to two yearold-oak barrels.

Spicy and cola aromas precede a palate with lots of ripe fruits, raspberry, red berries and prune. It is smooth in texture with a supple mid palate, good weight and well balanced. The vanilla oak notes integrate deliciously with the fruit finishing with lingering cherry menthol flavours. Produced from a small parcel of 36-year-old Pinot Noir vines adjoining Michael and Fiona’s house in Aloxe-Corton: “Les Caillettes.” This was the original plot purchased by Mischief and Mayhem making them domaine owners. Grapes were handpicked on September 5, 2018, sorted and vinified in open-top fermenters using 25% whole bunches. It was matured for 16 months in one-year-old French oak and bottled on May 18, 2020.

Initially a little closed on the nose, it opens up to reveal complexity and depth. Mineral flinty aromas lead to a smooth round palate with white fruits. More flavour builds in the mouth with honey, citrus and some bitter pithiness giving length. Chardonnay was grown in Mâcon, Saint-Aubin and three sectors in Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault Appelations. Light barrel treatment of the Meursault element adds depth and character rather than obvious oak.

Baked trout with balsamic-blackberry

Mischief and Mayhem

Michael Ragg and Fiona Traill-Stevenson, a husband-and-wife team from England, moved to Burgundy almost 20 years ago. Their passion for wine, and Burgundy in particular, led them to found Mischief and Mayhem.

READ THE FULL Q&A ONLINE ON OUR BLOG.

Mischief and Mayhem produces wine from a number of outstanding vineyards. Extreme care and attention is taken at every stage of the winemaking process from vineyard to bottling. Wines are produced in small batches, often only 2-3 barrels, with a focus on quality above all else. Read on to learn about this new Opimian producer.

WHAT ATTRACTED YOU TO BURGUNDY IN THE FIRST PLACE?

F&M: The world’s greatest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay vineyards. The beauty of the region itself. The people also – my (Michael's) experience of visiting many Burgundy producers for a number of years left me with a deep impression of how open, knowledgeable, generous and passionate most growers here are.

WHERE DOES THE NAME MISCHIEF AND MAYHEM COME FROM?

M: It reflects the character of two English winemakers who perhaps caused a little bit of a stir arriving in a traditional region and unashamedly aiming to emulate some of the established superstars by creating their own label. It is also reflective of the journey. If Fiona and I had thought too hard about this and analysed all of the pitfalls and risks of setting up a winery in

Burgundy, then we would never have moved here at all! So there is an element of what I might call constructive anarchy to the name. Irrespective of that, we have the greatest possible respect for the region and its vineyards and consider it a privilege to do what we do.

HOW MANY PEOPLE WORK ON THE ESTATE? WHICH WINEMAKING TECHNIQUES DO YOU USE?

F: We have a small team and Michael is in charge! We deploy organic and biodynamic winemaking techniques in the vineyards and in the cuverie. We always get our hands (and feet!) involved in the process. We try to use less new oak for our wines as well as experimenting with more stainless steel.

WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT BEING A WINEMAKER?

F: I have always thought the most wonderful gift was a patch of land… both feet on the earth and your head in the stars. Also, the pleasure derived from creating something unique, and knowing that many different people, most of whom we will never meet, have enjoyed the wines that we have put so much love, time and effort into making.

WHICH WINEMAKING TRADITIONS, IF ANY, ARE MOST IMPORTANT TO YOU?

F: Respecting the soil, respecting the vines, while maintaining the classic Burgundian principles; searching for harmony, purity, and elegance.

WHAT BOTTLE IS OPEN IN YOUR KITCHEN RIGHT NOW?

F&M: Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2019.

WHAT ARE MISCHIEF & MAYHEM’S CORE VALUES?

F&M: To strive for quality in all aspects of our work. Brilliance simplified.

3018

MISCHIEF AND MAYHEM GEVREYCHAMBERTIN, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOC, 2018

MISCHIEF AND MAYHEM SAVIGNY-LÈSBEAUNE PREMIER CRU, AUX GRAVAINS, AOC, 2018

Pinot Noir

$ 161 $ 483

Gevrey-Chambertin, situated about halfway between Nuits-Saint-Georges and Dijon in the Côte de Nuits, makes some of the Côted'Or’s most powerful and structured wines. Mischief and Mayhem's 2018 has aromas of fresh green herbs, mint, menthol and woody spices mixed with notes of cassis. It is succulent on the palate with good midpalate weight and lots of red fruits including raspberries and pomegranate on display. Supple and rich with silky tannins. Produced from grapes grown on old vines with an average age of 50 years, these are in three sites: La Justice, En Champs and Corvées to the north, south and east of the village. Grapes were fermented in an open-topped oak tank followed by maturation in oak barrels for 16 months using 30% new and 70% one- and two-year-old barrels. 25% of the grapes were whole bunch fermented.

A little subdued at the time of tasting, with aromas of peony, fresh green herbs and dusty oak. More flavours come through on the palate with meaty savoury notes combined with fruit. It is tight and structured yet with a supple mid palate and should become more expressive with time. This Premier Cru wine came from a tiny parcel of 40-year-old south facing vines in Savigny-Lès-Beaune Aux Gravains. The cru, just half a mile east of Savigny-LèsBeaune village, has an excellent terroir with limestone, marl and loose stone soils.

3021

MISCHIEF AND MAYHEM PULIGNYMONTRACHET PREMIER CRU, LES REFERTS, AOC, 2019

Puligny-Montrachet, in the Côte de Beaune, is synonymous with high quality, longlived Chardonnay wines – a result of its limestone soils and particular climate that give the wines a distinctly mineral character and firm structure. Seventeen premier cru sites are demarcated and classified within the Puligny-Montrachet Appellation. Les Referts lies north of Puligny town close to the boundary with Meursault. Soils are slightly deeper than other parts of PulignyMontrachet with more clay marl and iron content producing richer wines. The 2019 is bright in colour, with subtle stone fruit, almond and savoury notes. It is smooth and rich on the palate. White peach flavours are complemented by savoury notes. As the wine unfurls on the palate, more ripe pineapple and tropical fruits shine through leading to nice bitter fruit finish. It is pure and perfectly balanced. Grapes were picked by hand on September 10 and directly pressed. The wine spent 12 months in oak with 30% new and 70% in one- and twoyear-old barrels.

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES PREMIER CRU LES SAINTS-GEORGES, AOP, 2019

Les Saint-Georges is the most highly regarded Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru with many experts in support of it being raised to Grand Cru status. SaintGeorges is also one of the oldest vineyard sites, roughly one kilometre southeast of the town of Nuits-Saint-Georges. It is a gentle slope with deep soils made up of several different kinds of limestone with just the right amount of clay to provide hydration to the vines and good drainage. The town previously simply called Nuits, appended the name of its most famous and prestigious vineyard – Saint-Georges – to become Nuits-Saint-Georges in the 19th century. Other Burgundian villages which did the same include PulignyMontrachet and Gevrey-Chambertin. The cru has a total of 7.5 hectares and Vincent has a plot of 0.62 hectares of 50-year-old vines. Red apples and cherries on the nose also show on the palate with sweet and bitter fruit flavours with almond.

RARE FINDS TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

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