Issuu

The Omaha Metro

Event Report:

Matt Brown Picks Everything 2

What’s New

“In the middle of difficulty lies opportunity.”

Albert Einstein

Event Report: Matt Brown Picks Everything 2

We are firmly in the grips of winter. Many in Omaha have already departed for warmer climes. This would be the perfect time for us to escape to a warm island somewhere. This thought inspired Matt Brown, Advanced Sommelier at V. Mertz to present a vinous Island Vacation themed dinner. Every wine came from an island. We toured Tasmania, Santorini, Corsica, Sicily, Sardegna (Sardinia), New Zealand, and New York (an archipelago of many islands). The food pairings enhanced the wines, but were not taken from the cuisine of the various islands. We had assembled a cozy group of 11, which fit nicely into the restaurant. With Mathew being our tour guide, you always learn something, so if wine education and a desire to escape wines from California is your thing, you were at the right place. We are an International society after all, and this was a way to set aside parochial interests and try wine from the wider world.

We started with non-vintage Jansz Brut and Rosé offerings. If you want an inexpensive bubbly, this is a great choice. Jansz is one of the larger wineries on Tasmania and quite resembles French Champagne by using the French traditional Method Champenoise (secondary fermentation in the bottle), resulting in a dry, crisp style à la Française. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes are grown in cool climate Tasmanian vineyards. It was a fine accompaniment to our appetizers: three artisanal cheeses, sugared walnuts, fruit jam, house made bread, butter and two house made crackers, Corn Seed and Jalapeno Star.

King Salmon Crudo with Blood Orange, Crème Fraiche, Pickled Jalapeno and Pine Nut Crumble accompanied our next island, Santorini, Greece. The Domaine Argyros “Estate” Assyrtiko 2021 is made from the Assyrtiko grape, making a white wine from a volcanic island that sports a salty minerality, has good acidity and a citrus taste as well. It is the largest winery on the island. It is a great white wine to have in your cellar. Impressive.

Next, the Roasted Carrots & Marinated Beets, Panna Cotta, and Olive Tapenade with Crispy Corn that added crunch took us to a pair of Mediterranean islands. The Domaine Comte Abbatucci

Story by Tom Murnan. Photos by Tom Murnan

“Faustine Blanco” 2024 was made with the Vermentino grape and hails from Corsica. Fresh and minerally, this white wine is rarely seen in the USA, although Tablas Creek in Paso Robles, CA is currently making Vermentino. General JeanCharles Abbatucci (1770-1796), was a Corsican military hero and comrade of Napoleon Bonaparte, who died young in a Napoleonic battle and whose legacy is honored in Corsica. Our other white wine was the Cantine Patria “Femina” Etna Bianco 2023 which uses 100% the Carricante grape, indigenous to Sicily, grown at 700 meters on the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna.

We moved to red wine for the next course with the Hand Cut Tri-Color Tagliatelle, Cuban Braised Pork and Calabrian Chili. Staying in Sicily for a moment, we drank the Arianna Occhipinti “il Frappato” 2022. Frappato is an overlooked red wine grape available through Kermit Lynch. It is grown at elevations lower than the better-known Nero d’Avolo, signature grape of Sicily. From the Terre Siciliane area of Sicily, it is known for its wild berry flavors, somewhat Beaujolais-like, but more tannic and savory. We sailed to Sardegna for the accompanying wine, a Cantine Castianos “Capo Ferrato” 2022, which uses the Cannonau grape, which is identical to Grenacha. Smoky and well balanced.

The main course was Morgan Ranch Wagyu Striploin with Root Vegetable Puree, Haricots Verts and their signature Brandy Cream sauce. This beef was fabulous, with no gristle or fat. The sauce complimented the steak to no end. Our wine was

the Te Mata “Coleraine” 2021 from Hawkes Bay, New Zealand. A Bordeaux blend (55% Cab Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, and 12% Cab Franc) coming from the best north-facing vineyards of Te Mata, some of which were planted in 1892. It derives its name Coleraine from owner John Buck’s grandfather who was born in Coleraine, Ireland. This is widely regarded as the most famous wine of New Zealand and was quite impressive with the Wagyu.

We finished with Gulab Jamun with Saffron and Cardamom Syrup-Soaked Dough, Mango, Paneer & Pistachio. Gulab Jamun is a classic Indian dessert, consisting of deep-fried dough balls soaked in fragrant syrup. Think fruit cake. With all the spices, you need a strong wine, like a fortified Madeira. The Rare Wine Company Historic Series Madeira “New York” Malmsey was just the ticket. In US Revolutionary times, Madeira was the pinnacle of wine choices, virtually indestructible with its oxidized style, heated, and topped off with Aguardiente, a Portuguese brandy. Malmsey means it is a sweet style. Strong enough to overcome spices such as cardamum, its caramel and raisin flavors were a good match to the Indian spices.

Many thanks to Matthew Brown, Executive Chef Jonathan Miller, Sous Chef Witney Stanley, Pastry Chef Brooke Williams and our servers who gave us attentive service. What was not attentive was the construction of the menu, which Matt promised me by December 9th. Our menu came out 4 days before the event date. Matt promised to do better next January! I will hold him to that promise!