Welcome to the newest volume of OLTRE, our exclusive quarterly magazine filled with inspiration and ideas for your next trip — and beyond.
In this issue, we bring you what’s hot in places to travel, stay and dine and what’s trending in art, fashion and hospitality design. Enjoy our most fashionable issue of the year.
Like couture in motion, find tailored stays, signature moments, and effortless style across the globe with the IHG Luxury and Lifestyle Collection.
Join us for a stay unlike any other, where elevated comfort, world-class dining and intuitive hospitality make every moment unforgettable. From refined urban retreats to secluded island hideaways, escape to somewhere exceptional.
CONTACT A TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE BENEFITS AVAILABLE WHEN BOOKING FOUR SEASONS HOTELS AND RESORTS
Hong Kong, New York and beyond
What’s next in hospitality design? Style gurus André Fu, Kit Kemp and Alessia Genova ruminate about big gestures, Yves Klein blue and emotional connection.
Scents and sensibility: This season’s
worthy fragrances
as
of
Los Angeles, California
Southern California as many of us know it: sun-drenched, glamorous and enduringly stylish.
Mykonos, Greece
OLTRE’s Volume 13 playlist channels the sun’s-out, chill-out vibe of the
at Cali Mykonos.
The odd and wonderful David Bowie Centre in the V&A East Storehouse is everything fans deserve.
Wake to endless ocean views from your suite’s private balcony. Spend your days exploring new destinations and your evenings savoring world-class cuisine. With nearly one crew member for every guest, you can rest assured that every detail is taken care of. Aboard Regent Seven Seas Cruises, your every want is always included.
CRUISE IN ALL-INCLUSIVE, UNRIVALED LUXURY TM
Unlimited Exploration | Heartfelt Hospitality | Spacious All-Suite Ships | Epicurean Perfection
Rome, Italy
Florence’s most prestigous ceramics brand has opened a new flagship boutique and cafe inside Hotel de la Ville. Consider this a warning.
Sunshine, palm trees and grasshopper cocktails are calling. Pack a bag. Tote sweet!
Baden-Baden, Germany
After an extensive two-year revamp, Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa appears ready for another 150 years of wellness and indulgence.
Antwerp to Manhattan
Style-conscious cruisers should get excited about visiting these two ports this year.
Chasing crocodiles, waterfalls, coffee and beaches: The second coming of Costa Rica is happening now. Here’s what to do and where to stay.
Style may be eternal, but let’s face it we all need a little refresh now and then. That idea is at the heart of this issue, which explores how style shapes the way we live and present ourselves. In the spirit of the season, you’ll notice we’ve also given ourselves a mini-makeover on the cover.
Our new frame is more organic in shape, fluid and adaptive, intended to expand our perspective while still reflecting a point of view. Although the form may shift, our commitment remains the same: to create highly curated editorial that resonates with our readers’ lifestyles and inspires how you explore the world.
Just as style is deeply personal, so too are the experiences we seek when we travel. I’ve spent the last two decades of my career celebrating the benefits of working with a travel advisor, and I’m proud to count so many of these pros as friends. I’m constantly amazed at their commitment to designing itineraries precisely suited to each individual client. Every trip is better with a travel advisor’s touch a reminder that attention to detail can make all the difference.
It’s the small details that elevate everything we do, and we hope this issue offers a seasonal perspective, inspiration and plenty of style on every page.
GLENEAGLES, SCOTLAND: I’M SURE IT’S INCREDIBLE IN THE SUMMER BUT I LOVED WINTER’S COZY, MOODY VIBE.
KYOTO, JAPAN: CULTURAL IMMERSION (ZEN GARDENING, MEDITATION WITH MONKS, KARATE LESSONS, TEMPLE TOURS) ARRANGED BY BEAR LUXE, AN IN-COUNTRY PARTNER WHO WORKS WITH OUR TRAVEL ADVISORS TO CRAFT BESPOKE ITINERARIES.
CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA: ONE OF MY FAVORITE CITIES IN THE WORLD — CULTURE, BEACHES AND SO CLOSE TO WINELANDS, SAFARI AND MORE.
CHARLESTON, SOUTH CAROLINA: I LOOK FORWARD TO MY TWICE-YEARLY TRIPS FOR GREAT SHOPPING, DINING AND SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY.
WHERE ARE YOU GOING NEXT?
Experience luxury and comfort every step of your journey.
Senior Vice President, Content
Elaine Srnka
Vice President, Publishing
Laura Sport
Editorial Director Brad A. Johnson
Art Director Devin Duckworth
International Correspondents
Copy Editor Jennifer Weston
Travel Desk Gail Matini
Nicholas Gill (Latin America), Carolyn O'Neil (Caribbean), Kathryn Romeyn (Bali), Chris Schalkx (Bangkok), Laura Schooling (London), Marina Spironetti (Milan)
Contributors
Steven Biller, Mariasole Bombardi, Tanvi Chheda, Mico Corvino, Adam Erace, Victoria D ’ Esposito, Manu Mendi, Don Nichols, Gabriella Onessimo, Ramona Saviss, Catherine Tansey, Maria Tattaglia, Michelle Tchea, Jordi Terry, Eric Twardzik, Simon Urwin, Laurie Werner
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Chief Executive Officer
J.D. O'Hara
Chief Financial Officer
Robert Klug
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Jeremy Van Kuyk
Executive Vice President, Strategy
Henry Gilroy
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Albert M. Herrera
Executive Vice President, Partner Relations
Peter Vlitas
Senior Vice President, Public Relations
Elizabeth Gaerlan
President, Global Travel Collection
Angie Licea
President, Nexion Travel Group
Jackie Friedman
President, Travel Leaders Group
Lindsay Pearlman
Internova SELECT and CURATED Hotel & Resort Rate Key
$ = Less than $500
$$ = $500 – $1,000
$$$ = $1,000 – $1,500
$$$$ = More than $1,500
Categories reflect average mid-season rate for standard room. Your travel advisor can secure complimentary Internova SELECT or CURATED perks such as hotel credits, breakfast for two, early check-in/late checkout (based on availability) and other extras.
ON THE FRONT COVER:
Shot on location at Museo Lázaro Galdiano, with female portraits by Joshua Reynolds, Gilbert Stuart, John Hoppner and anónimo. Neus wears a Isabel Sanchis dress with Marina García jewelry.
ON THE BACK COVER:
A view of Prieta Bay from the Ballena Estate at Four Seasons Resort Peninsula Papagayo, Costa Rica.
OLTRE is published quarterly by Internova Travel Group, one of the largest travel-services companies in the world. Internova brands represent more than 100,000 travel advisors in more than 6,000 company-owned and -affiliated locations throughout the United States, Mexico, Canada and the United Kingdom, with a presence in more than 80 countries. Publisher assumes no responsibility for representations or changes to travel information and pricing described herein, which are subject to change and availability, and restrictions may apply. Nothing may be reprinted in whole or in part without written consent of Publisher. Direct editorial and subscription inquiries to editors@oltremag.com and advertising requests to advertising@oltremag. com. Internova Travel Group is headquartered at 1633 Broadway, New York, NY 10019; Internova. com. Copyright © 2026 Internova Travel Group.
Los Angeles, California
Southern California artist Carrie Graber paints her native region as many of us know it: sun-drenched, glamorous and enduringly stylish. Her oils linger on modernist architecture, mid-century interiors and fashionable, solitary figures paused in thought, while afternoon light — the quiet protagonist — glides across glass and shimmers off pool water. “I’m drawn to how light moves through a space and changes it,” Graber says, describing a process built on contrast: radiant skies pressed against cool shadows, sleek architecture warmed by human presence. “It sets the mood before anything else happens.” The effect feels polished yet intimate, more about atmosphere than spectacle.
WRITING: STEVEN BILLER
Above: “ Palm Springs Perspective"
Opposite, top: “ Waiting for the Dinner Date " Bottom: “
"
THE MISSONI-THEMED POOL AND PRIVATE BEACH CLUB AT CALI MYKONOS CHANNEL A SUN’S-OUT, CHILL-OUT VIBE.
Mykonos, Greece
Cali Mykonos resort recently partnered with Italian fashion house Missoni to drape its poolside lounge and secret beach cove with the brand’s iconic zigzag patterns in shades of Aegean blue, white and seafoam green. Now aptly dubbed the Missoni Resort Club, Cali’s waterside bar exudes a sun-soaked, do-not-disturb attitude, lulling guests into nirvana with a soundtrack curated by managing partner Eric Mourkakos, who also serves as head DJ.
WRITING: BRAD A. JOHNSON
“Sfiorivano le Viole” by Rino Gaetano
“Cool Cat” by Queen
“Bad Side” by LTJ Xperience, Anduze
“Lebanese Blonde” by Thievery Corporation
“Clic” by DjeuhDjoah, Lieutenant Nicholson
“Soul Brother” by Golf Trip
“Tout Est Bleu” by Âme Strong
“Canopée” by Polo & Pan
“Agitations Tropicales” by L’Impératrice
“Make Way For The Sun” by O & The Mo
“Suéltalo” by Hermanos Gutiérrez
“Stay For One More Night” by Goodvibes Sound
“Brazilian Soul” by The Knocks, SOFI TUKKER
“Soh-Soh” by Odeal
“So Clear” by Kraak & Smaak, Meeka Kates
“Turkish Coffee” by BALTHVS
“Night Rain” by Crazy P
“La Vie” by Bolivard
“Follow the Sun” by Gizmo Varillas
“Walk with the Dreamers” by Ambala, Laid Back
The 40 white sugar-box suites and villas of Cali Mykonos overlook the Aegean from the island’s quiet southeastern coast. Your travel advisor can secure Internova SELECT perks, including a $100 resort credit and complimentary daily breakfast for two. $$$$
Scan to open our playlist in Spotify.
EachVoyagetransformsyourjourneyintoart
RESERVE YOUR VOYAGE TO NEW HORIZONS MEDITERRANEAN AND CARIBBEAN
FASHION, DESIGN, MUSIC, RACING… ADD THESE MUST-ATTEND EVENTS TO YOUR SOCIAL CALENDAR THIS SEASON
NOW – SEPTEMBER 6 COUNTY
NOW – OCTOBER 4
APRIL 23 – 26
JUNE 3 – 7
JUNE 9 – 13
JUNE 10 – 12
JUNE 12 – SEPTEMBER 12
PRIORITY INTEL FOR THE JET SET: NEW ART GALLERIES, AIRPORT LOUNGES, HOTELS AND MORE.
Lake Como, Italy – Paolo and Antonella De Santis had a dream: to give their contemporary art collection a proper home on their beloved Lake Como — beyond what's already on display at their Grand Hotel Tremezzo and Passalacqua properties. That proper home is now CASABIANCA , a 1930s lakeside villa where the likes of Kiefer and Pistoletto inhabit every room. No labels, no curators; just 50 works across welcoming spaces designed for reading, lingering and pause — hence the charming cafe, Cova, on the ground floor. casabiancacomo.com
On the award-winning Perfect Day at CocoCay, paradise gets a serious upgrade at the exclusive Coco Beach Club — where every sun-soaked moment is a masterpiece. Float between infinity pool perfection and ocean-kissed shores, then indulge in island elegance with filet mignon and fresh lobster at the chic beachfront restaurant. Elevate your beach day with an Overwater Cabana, complete with a hammock over calm turquoise waves, a private slide, and an attendant catering to your every whim. And when the sun dips low, the adventure soars high back onboard the world’s boldest ships.
Contact your travel advisor to book your Perfect Day at CocoCay vacation today.
Singapore – As if we really needed another reason to love Singapore's Changi Airport — but here it is: The airport’s Jewel extension just welcomed the world’s first permanent restaurant from fashion brand Coach. With 56 seats, The Coach Restaurant evokes a New York bistro vibe with curved leather seating, terrazzo floors, bronze-mirror walls adorned with framed vintage Coach ads, and even a yellow taxi hanging from a curved ceiling. The wood-fire kitchen serves up Japanese Satsuma Wagyu A5 steaks as well as Maine lobster and lamb chops, complemented by an all-American wine list. singapore.coach.com/coach-restaurant
Las Vegas, Nevada – Credit-card companies continue to outshine most airlines when it comes to airport lounges. The latest jackpot: an elegant new Chase Sapphire Lounge by The Club at Harry Reid International. The high-roller, two-story lounge opened in December and boasts Chase’s first Champagne parlor, an intimate room with plush velvet furnishings where sparkling wines are served from a gold bar cart. Other amenities include a Momofuku-crafted dining menu, quiet zones and movable laptop tables.
A safari is unlike any other experience and Micato Safaris is unlike any other company: For every safari sold, we send a child to school. The World’s Most Awarded Safari Company.
Mexico City, Mexico – The well-known Museo Frida Kahlo (aka La Casa Azul) in Coyoacán has long focused on Frida Kahlo’s life with her husband, Diego Rivera. But as of last fall, Frida fans can now take an even deeper dive into her early life at a different house, Casa Roja (just a few doors down from Casa Azul), that’s been owned by her family for generations and is now operated by them as Museo Casa Kahlo . See her very first oil painting and a mural she created, plus jewelry, embroidery and more. Rockwell Group, known for designing luxury hotels like The Boca Raton in Florida, created the new museum's look. museocasakahlo.org
Singapore – Marina Bay Sands’ recent $1.75 billion renovation included the creation of the Paiza Collection , which is essentially a new, 364-room luxury hotel within the massive landmark hotel. Paiza rooms and suites are much larger (including the 6,458-square-foot Chairman Suite) and more opulent (crystal chandeliers and marble) than the standard offerings. New perks for Paiza guests include MercedesMaybach transfers from Changi Airport, a private arrival lobby, exclusive culinary offerings in the Paiza Sky Residence, 24hour butlers and — perhaps best of all — exclusive cabanas at the famed rooftop infinity pool.
Designed to feel like your own private yacht
Ultra-elegant interiors
Unforgettable dining
Ocean-inspired wellness
DISCOVER THE OCEAN STATE OF MIND. Explora Journeys invites you to sail in an inclusive, ultra-elegant home-away-from-home designed by super-yacht specialists, as you enjoy unforgettable culinary experiences and indulge in ocean-inspired wellness on a journey to iconic and lesser-travelled destinations in effortless European style.
FOR RESERVATIONS, CONTACT A TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL TODAY
OOH LA LA! FROM SNEAKERS IN SÃO PAULO TO DIAMONDS IN ST. MORITZ, THESE ARE OUR FAVORITE INDULGENCES RIGHT NOW.
TOKYO, JAPAN – Chuo-dori, Tokyo’s toniest shopping street, turned heads in December with the dazzling debut of Casa LOEWE Ginza . Spanning more than 10,000 square feet, the store is the Spanish fashion house’s largest in Asia — second in size worldwide to the Madrid flagship by merely a few feet. Over four floors, it showcases the LVMH-owned brand’s full range of products, from women’s and men’s ready-to-wear to leather goods, fragrances and decorator must-haves — art, craft and design pieces. loewe.com
BANGKOK, THAILAND – Since 2020, Bangkok-born architect Tammy Amorn has spent weeks at a stretch crisscrossing the Thai countryside, seeking out artisanal communities to collaborate with on pieces for her fashion label, Seire . The result is a kaleidoscopic collection of tunics, tops and tassel-fringed skirts that draw on vernacular fashion staples, such as checkered khao ma cloths and wraparound fisherman’s pants. The brand has recently put down roots in Bangkok’s ritzy Chidlom district, with a sun-drenched boutique that carries the full range, from Thai silk totes and embroidered tops to one-off home accessories and patchwork carryalls made in small batches. seirecollective.com
WITH A LEGIT SENSE OF PLACE
SÃO PAULO, BRAZIL – For its 20th anniversary, French sneaker brand VEJA — long committed to sourcing wild rubber from Amazonian communities and organic cotton from farmers in Brazil’s Nordeste — has moved closer to its source materials by opening its first Latin American store in the heart of Rua Oscar Freire, aka the Rodeo Drive of São Paulo. Designed by Brazilian architect Roberto Somlo, the three-level space centers on transparency, featuring exposed beams, a glass façade and nods to Italian-Brazilian Brutalist architect Lina Bo Bardi by way of concrete display tables molded in wood. veja-store.com
MILAN, ITALY – The shop everyone’s talking about in Italy’s fashion capital right now is the new Tiffany & Co. flagship on Via Monte Napoleone, which was just named World’s Most Beautiful Emporium 2025 by Prix Versailles. Housed inside the historic Palazzo Taverna, the three-level, 12,917-square-foot space, designed by Peter Marino, blends jewelry, art and architecture, with a sculptural glass staircase as its heart and bespoke glasswork inspired by Gio Ponti. Shopping is just a bonus. tiffany.com
ST. MORITZ, SWITZERLAND – St. Moritz never lacks superlatives. Luxury hotels stand side by side with designer fashion boutiques, and they polo on ice here. So it should come as no surprise that at 5,978 feet, there is now a bakery that sells artisanal sourdough bread alongside bespoke diamond jewelry — and everything in between that a savvy socialite might desire. Founders Mario Weichselmann and Angelo De Luca originally launched Super Mountain Market as a pop-up concept store opening just two times a year, but in 2025 they found a permanent home (and new partnership with Modiste Studio and Marick Baars) on Via Stredas in the heart of town. Shop South Tyrolean and Swiss fashion by RIER and Alva, sculptures by Othmar Prenner and jewelry created by De Luca himself (by appointment), plus must-have beanies, vases, lamps, chairs... Local Michelin-renowned chef Paolo Casanova supplies the in-house bakery. superstmoritz.com
LONDON, ENGLAND – Belgian designer Dries Van Noten ’s first stand-alone store in London has taken over that two-story, 19th-century, former Barclays Bank building on Hanover Square in Mayfair. It is a glamorous fashion boutique plus apothecary, plus… vinyl record store and listening lounge? Oh, yes, it’s all of that and more. The walls are adorned with statement pieces by Hockney, Man Ray and Tracey Emin. It’s the ultimate he-and-shecool destination for edgy minimalism. driesvannoten.com
SAINT-TROPEZ, FRANCE – Maison Rondini ’s iconic fourstrapped Tropéziennes sandals have long been the footwear of choice for summers on the French Riviera. As the beloved leather atelier gears up to celebrate its 100th anniversary next year, the brand has finally expanded with a second boutique. Here, the focus has broadened to include a new line of handbags, wallets, belts and accessories dreamed up by Alain Rondini, the grandson of Dominique Rondini, the cobbler who founded the original shop. Still run as a family business today, Rondini continues, remarkably, to handmake all of its products on-site. rondini.fr/en
Ready to elevate your travel plans? STAY CURATED.
Contact our agency to plan your journey.
STYLE-CONSCIOUS CRUISERS CALLING ON NEW YORK AND ANTWERP THIS YEAR WILL OBVIOUSLY GO SHOPPING — BUT THERE’S ANOTHER REASON TO GET EXCITED ABOUT THESE PORTS.
April – December
AmaWaterways, Avalon, Azamara, Regent, Seabourn, Scenic, Silversea, Viking, Windstar, Uniworld
NEW YORK
May – December
Azamara, Crystal, Cunard, Explora, Oceania, Princess, Regent, Seabourn, Silversea, Viking, Virgin Voyages
Museums in both style capitals are hosting major fashionthemed exhibitions that are not to be missed. Antwerp is up first, as this year marks the 40th anniversary of when the fashion world initially took notice of six Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp graduates, who collectively showed their avant-garde designs at London Fashion Week in 1986. All six — Dirk Bikkembergs, Ann Demeulemeester, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene and Marina Yee — went on to influential careers that helped launch Antwerp into the zeitgeist. A new exhibition called “The Antwerp Six” at MoMu – Fashion Museum Antwerp chronicles their rise to global acclaim. It’s on display now through mid January. WRITING: DON NICHOLS
Next up is New York, where The Metropolitan Museum of Art will finally unveil its Condé M. Nast Galleries , the longawaited new home for major exhibitions of its Costume Institute. The inaugural show, “ Costume Art ,” examines the relationship between clothing and the body by pairing Institute garments from prehistory to the present with sculptures, paintings and other works from the museum’s expansive collection. It opens May 10 and runs through early January.
Check your cruise schedule, because many of our favorite ships will visit these cities this year — and both of these shows will expire. Plan accordingly while in port.
In Los Cabos, the desert and mountains disappear into the sea, creating a world of infinite possibilities waiting to be discovered. Hike rugged trails in the Sierra de la Laguna mountains. Witness majestic whales frolic in the crystal clear waters. Wander through charming towns rich in culture and history. Dare to experience something bigger. When you stand at Land’s End, you’re at the beginning of something extraordinary.
Discover The Possibilities
FOUR SEASONS JUST DEBUTED ITS 95-CABIN SUPERYACHT IN THE MEDITERRANEAN. WE CORNERED THE BRAND’S TOP SKIPPER IN CHARGE FOR A QUICK CHAT.
Ben Trodd has come home. The globe-trotting hotelier spent more than 25 years in various roles with Four Seasons before leaving in 2023 to become chief operating officer at Aman. But his affinity for Four Seasons — and a lifelong predilection for the water — brought him back last year, this time as CEO of the brand’s new yachting division.
The response to Four Seasons I thus far?
We’ve already sold three-quarters of our inventory — and most of these guests are people who’ve never cruised before.
Your relationship with yachting?
I’m British and a man of the water. I grew up sailing in small 30- to 35-foot boats. My family crossed the English Channel from Dover to Calais when I was 8 or 9, and I remember thinking just how small our boat was beside those big ferries.
A favorite memory at sea?
Sailing in the Mediterranean with friends on a 100-foot, 100-year-old private yacht and seeing Capri from the water. You can only appreciate its rock stacks and arches truly from the ocean.
What’s your ideal number of days at sea?
Five to seven nights.
Which port are you looking forward to?
Komiža, Croatia. It’s one of the last unspoiled gems — a place where natural beauty, cultural purity and historic intrigue meet.
The shore excursion not to miss?
Driving a 1960s convertible through breathtaking landscapes from Porto Santo Stefano to Montemerano, one of Tuscany’s most beautiful villages, with lunch at the Michelin-starred Ristorante da Caino and an exclusive visit by Andrea, the owner.
What's your go-to cocktail order these days?
A negroni with Monkey 47 gin. Or, on a really beautiful day, a Gray Whale gin and tonic with juniper berries and a sprig of rosemary. Gray Whale is light and citrusy, from California, my adopted home.
The one thing you always pack?
Persol sunglasses.
If you could sail anywhere tomorrow?
Cape Town, for Table Mountain and for the drama of two oceans meeting, plus the chance of a whale sighting. Ashore, I'd catch a cricket match between England and South Africa at Newlands.
Checked bag or carry-on?
Only, only, only carry-on. If you check baggage, and if you don’t have Global Entry and TSA PreCheck, don’t travel with me.
Four Seasons I sails the Mediterranean until November, with 5to 14-night itineraries starting around $22,200 per suite. Rates include daily breakfast and some nonalcoholic beverages. Most itineraries include at least one full-day anchor devoted simply to enjoying the sea. Your travel advisor can arrange bespoke shore excursions as well as pre- and post-cruise hotels, transfers and tours.
WRITING: DON NICHOLS
Oceania took everything that was great about Vista and improved upon it for Allura. My favorite spot on the ship is definitely Baristas — I love enjoying my morning coffee alfresco up there on deck 14. And the bubble waffles at the adjacent Creperie are a great new afternoon treat.
—Toni Lanotte-Day, travel advisor
OCEANIA
INTRODUCED A HANDSOME NEW LOOK WITH ITS MIDSIZE ALLURA CLASS OF SHIPS — AND THIS NEWEST VESSEL HAS SOMETHING
IMPORTANT THAT THE PREVIOUS ONE LEFT OUT.
Oceania Cruises likes to tout its culinary bona fides for good reason. But it’s not just the food itself that makes a statement at the Red Ginger restaurant on Allura , the company’s second Allura-class ship, which launched last summer. The pan-Asian restaurant’s stylish modern decor, inspired by the FrenchIndochina era, truly wows with design elements like pagodainspired pole lamps, French Colonial-style caning, oversize crystal chandeliers and handcrafted Chinese landscapes — a beautiful restaurant by any standard on land, which makes it even more impressive at sea.
Red Ginger is not new to Oceania, but this design on Allura (and the ship’s nearly identical sister, Vista ) is a dramatic departure from its predecessors on Marina and Riviera , where the restaurants sport a darker, less refined aesthetic. These 1,200-passenger Allura-class ships, which were the brand’s first new builds in 10 years, are a bridge between Oceania’s older, smaller ships and the still-to-come, even-larger Sonata class, the first of which debuts in 2027. This stark evolution exemplifies Oceania’s move toward a more contemporary, lighter, residential ambience — elegance without stuffiness.
The De La Ville Penthouse Suite is a spectacular art and antique-filled residence with a private dining room and two terraces overlooking Rome. It can be combined with neighbouring suites to form a six-bedroom duplex apartment, the perfect base for exploring the Eternal City. FOR MORE INFORMATION AND BOOKINGS CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR.
This laid-back luxury is apparent throughout the ship, beginning in the atrium lobby, where the striking spiral stairs immediately capture my attention when I embark on Allura ’s christening cruise to the Bahamas. Resembling a nautilus shell, the staircase swoops around a floor-to-ceiling crystal chandelier that evokes a school of flitting fish. Exploring the public areas, I’m impressed at every turn by copious Italian marble, soft leather furniture and artful lighting, all of which makes me feel as if I’ve just checked into a chic boutique hotel.
Dining at Red Ginger — with its expanded menu of Japanese-Peruvian dishes and an unforgettable braised short rib with miso-sweet-potato mousseline — reinforces that first visual impression. And while Red Ginger transports me to Asia, the belle époque-inspired Grand Dining Room anchors me in a light-filled, parquet-floored English conservatory where hydrangea-inspired chandeliers dangle from soaring ceilings and dramatic archways create intimate dining pockets. Allura boasts one chef for every eight guests.
The 613 staterooms and suites on this all-veranda ship convey equally impressive style, with options that range from 240 to more than 2,400 square feet. The company’s marketing materials liken my 291-square-foot, concierge-level veranda stateroom to a Saint-Tropez bungalow. That’s a stretch, sizewise, but I find it nonetheless quite charming, with its soothing color scheme, cozy seating area, cushy bedding and marbletiled bathroom with ample storage and a walk-in rain shower.
A few of my other favorite things: the LYNC Digital Center (with its really smart classes ranging from social-media basics to smartphone photography), a fabulous six-course Gérard Bertrand wine-pairing luncheon (including foie gras and pâté en croûte for a $175 upcharge), the enlarged Culinary Center (with double the number of cooking stations available on the older ships), the wellness-inspired Aquamar Kitchen (to balance out that foie gras with something a little healthier), and the Founders Bar — a hot spot with barrel-aged negronis and smoky cocktails for the requisite Instagram posts.
Lastly, something you’ll find only on Allura is the Crêperie, which serves savory crêpes, Belgian waffles and Italian gelato so beguiling that I find myself just randomly showing up here every afternoon. Plus: Jacques is back by popular demand. Oceania didn’t include its signature French restaurant on Vista , which apparently left loyal guests scratching their heads and crying foul, so that’s been corrected.
Oceania Allura sails in the Mediterranean and Caribbean, with cruises ranging from 7 to 33 days. Rates from around $2,500. Your travel advisor can plan a detailed itinerary with pre- and post-cruise hotels and tours.
Impression by Secrets redefines intimate luxury through lavish boutique resorts, personalized service, and epicurean artistry. Experience the refined elegance of Impression Moxché by Secrets in Riviera Maya, or the serene sophistication of Impression Isla Mujeres by Secrets, set gracefully along the shores of Isla Mujeres.
Luxury is in the details—and the expertise behind them. Bring your dreams to life with your travel advisor and Luxe by ALG Vacations®.
The David Bowie Centre feels less like a gallery and more like a character experiment created by the man himself — because, in a way, it was. Bowie, along with his private curator, had been cataloguing items for years. His collection of 90,000 items was then acquired by the V&A in 2023, though talks with the legend actually began in 2013, when the V&A launched the blockbuster, international touring show “David Bowie is.”
On display now is a tightly curated selection of 200 items: costumes, photographs, hand-drawn pictures and lyrics, as well as carefully itemized memorabilia such as the key to the Berlin flat Bowie shared with Iggy Pop, outlandish costumes from every era to fit his itty-bitty body and concept illustrations for music videos. It’s all arranged into loosely themed displays like “Futurism,” “Unrealised Projects” and “Collaboration and Influences” — not neatly titled and chronological but rather like a cool uncle’s home study (if your cool uncle were a rock star), where your eyes wash over photographs, notes and trinkets.
WRITING: LAURA SCHOOLING
And if you’re thinking, “But what about those additional 89,800 or so items?” Well, plan ahead. Visitors are encouraged to “order an item” from the archive (in advance, via the website), which allows the chance to get up close to (and sometimes touch) keepsakes not otherwise on view, assisted by a museum worker.
As you enter the space, the “Library of Connections” is a savvy way to address the possibility that many young people today might not know who David Bowie was (the pain, my heart). Featured is a selection of iconic pop-culture outputs that explain their connection to the rock god: the Barbie movie, Lady Gaga, Lana Del Rey, The Rocky Horror Picture Show — all one degree of Bowie.
The V&A East Storehouse is probably the most modern and least conventional “traditional” art museum in the world. It is literally a storehouse for the V&A’s varied collections, first opened to the public last year, where you can peruse the stored and secured items in their endless racks.
The David Bowie Centre is tucked inside the V&A East Storehouse, a few minutes from the Hackney Wick train station. The area, once dominated by warehouses and artist conversions, might be unfamiliar to most London visitors — and even to many locals — and is definitely worth a visit. A short stroll from the train station, you’ll cross the petite River Lea, lined with houseboats, and find the newly revitalized Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park. Although the Storehouse is free to visit, reservations for the David Bowie Centre are strongly recommended. vam.ac.uk/east/storehouse/visit
“WAITER, THERE’S A CANDLESTICK ON MY BILL.”
Café Ginori serves lunch and dinner daily. Your travel advisor can secure Internova SELECT perks at Hotel de la Ville, including a $100 dining and bar credit. $$$$
One more glass of Prosecco, and the lunch tab at Café Ginori most certainly would have cost an additional $5,700. That was the price not for another bottle of bubbly, but for the Ginori 1735 candleholder in the retail boutique at the dining room’s entrance that caught my eye — and wouldn’t let go of my imagination. Every sip of Prosecco brought me one step closer to owning a whimsical candlestick, inspired by the Medici court, that didn’t match anything else in my house. Yet, the ghosts of Rome kept telling me I had to have it. “Only 100 of these were made,” the attendant casually mentioned, sensing my weakness for beautiful things.
Café Ginori is the newest cafe in Rocco Forte’s delicious portfolio, tucked into the ground floor of Hotel de la Ville atop the Spanish Steps in Rome. Ginori 1735, of course, is Italy’s most exclusive tableware brand, maker of those iconic porcelain plates and cups you’ve surely seen at Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Gump’s or Harrods. And, more recently, here, inside de la Ville, home not merely to this adorable cafe but also Ginori's new flagship boutique. In order to arrive at your table, you must first survive the gauntlet of the shop.
Most importantly, the food is exquisite. Rocco Forte’s head chef, Fulvio Pierangelini, serves a menu that’s quintessentially Roman in flavor — even when it doesn’t look like it at first. Cacio e pepe masquerades as a Chinese dumpling, for example, and it’ll have you scratching your head as to why it hasn’t always been served like that. Squiggles of fried calamari are tossed with miniature zucchini chips and wasabi aïoli. And if someone tells you a better example of spaghetti al pomodoro exists elsewhere in this city, don’t believe them. Pierangelini’s is perfect and miraculously simple. It all arrives on covetable Ginori 1735 ceramics, which means every dish brings yet another temptation to jack up the bill. Good luck.
WITH THEIR TEXTURAL INTRIGUE AND SCULPTURAL CURVES — PLUS DISTINCTIVE POPS OF COLOR — THIS SEASON’S SIGNATURE-WORTHY SCENTS CAN ALSO SERVE AS OBJETS D’ART.
Step aboard a Cunard® Queen and into a world of distinctive style. From black-tie evenings to sunlit promenades, every moment is an invitation to express yourself and live beautifully. This is sailing, refined – where elegance isn’t just reserved for an occasion, but woven into every delightful day.
Queen Anne® 12 nights w Oct 13, 2026
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Queen Anne® 14 nights w Dec 20, 2026
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Zimmermann Wanderlust belted swimsuit ($395); Julietta Nautilus shell necklace ($295); Alémais Harley gown ($1,300); Lizzie Fortunato Goddess collar ($390); Lizzie Fortunato Gala bag ($550).
Johanna Ortiz Wild Savannah linen dress ($950); LOEWE Cateye sunglasses ($420); Lizzie Fortunato Ariel necklace ($1,050); Cult Gaia Cassidy leather heels ($598).
SUNSHINE, PALM TREES AND GRASSHOPPER COCKTAILS ARE CALLING. PACK A BAG. TOTE SWEET!
Arrival by seaplane sets the tone for a private island retreat offering seclusion across an intimate few beachfront villas and expansive residences. Reef exploration, wellness rituals and intuitive Fijian hospitality shape each day, creating an ideal setting for romance, family gatherings and meaningful connection.
Torre Vella
Vineyards, olive groves and open sea views surround this design-led finca set within 200 hectares of protected countryside. Private-pool suites, candlelit dinners among the vines and wellness rituals with estate-grown olive oil create a secluded escape shaped by nature, intention and Mediterranean stillness throughout.
On Lake Como’s tranquil eastern shore, heritage villas and contemporary design come together in refined harmony. Panoramic views unfold from suites, restaurants and a floating infinity pool, while a serene spa and attentive service create a peaceful sanctuary immersed in Como’s light, landscapes and timeless allure.
Set within a restored 15th-century palazzo near the Trevi Fountain, this refined retreat pairs historic architecture with contemporary wellness. Roman Baths, rooftop views and vibrant farm-to-table dining create an elegant sanctuary where sustainability and modern Roman life meet in the heart of the Eternal City daily.
JAMES MACAUSLAN OF HUME LONDON CARRIES THE TORCH OF BESPOKE BRITISH SHIRTMAKING.
“A silk shirt is a really wonderful thing to wear. I think people should wear more silk.”
So says James MacAuslan, founder of Hume London. This opinion, delivered in a crisp, deliberate clip, is the type a person declares only when fully in command of one's station in life — which, in MacAuslan’s case, means the rarified art of bespoke shirtmaking.
The native Londoner’s interest in clothing began in childhood, nursed by a “keen shopper” of a mum (who often brought her son along on shopping trips) and a father who frequented Anderson & Sheppard for his bespoke suits.
“Both my parents were regarded for being quite well-dressed people,” MacAuslan says.
Making, it seems, was in his blood. He recalls his mother’s father as a “practical man” forever tinkering with objects to see how they’d been built, and his father’s grandfather, an engineer of combustion engines. (That ancestor, Crawford Hume, serves as the inspiration for MacAuslan’s middle name and the namesake of his business.)
GIUDECCA 33, VENEZIA
In 2008, MacAuslan enrolled at the London College of Fashion but quickly became disillusioned by what he viewed as an overabundance of ego and a dearth of practicality. He transferred to the more vocationally minded Newham College, taking courses in tailoring and accepting work placements with London tailors. He ultimately found a job at Budd, a bespoke shirtmaker established in 1910. In the little cutting room above its jewel-box shop in Mayfair’s Piccadilly Arcade, MacAuslan learned the craft from two veteran cutters, Darren Tiernan and John Butcher, each of whom had decades of experience in the trade — and distinct, opposing views on how to cut a shirt.
“It’s nice to be able to put those two very different traditional paths together and make my own way of how a shirt should fit, rather than just having one master saying, ‘Do this,'” MacAuslan says of his journey.
After a 14-year tenure at Budd, during which he rose from apprentice to cutter, MacAuslan launched Hume in a small studio in West London, where, aside from a part-time apprentice, MacAuslan remains the only employee. And while most of his clients are local, he travels twice a year to accept orders from U.S. customers in New York, Washington, San Francisco and Los Angeles.
The Hume shirt — which starts around $535 — is a synthesis of the traditions he learned at Budd and his own idiosyncrasies relating to art and design. He describes his signature cut as being closer than that of traditional makers yet balanced in its proportions with appropriate room in the chest.
“It needs to look fitted, but not be impractically tight,” he says. Clients, whose measurements he converts into hand-drawn paper patterns, choose from a vast array of fabrics — not just the spun silks dyed in Hume’s proprietary colors — and design details such as the style of cuffs, back pleats and collars. That last category is a particular font of inspiration for MacAuslan, who has designed a half dozen house models, including the dramatic, ’70s-inflected Cassius, with its dagger-like spear points; the soft, rolling Castelein, inspired by a portrait of the 19th-century Belgian artist Ernest Castelein; and the housespecialty Curve, a versatile spread with a more rounded shape amenable to work or weekend.
While MacAuslan has his own references and point of view, the final product ultimately reflects the tastes of the client, he says. He only asks that the process be a collaborative one.
“The most important thing is somebody who cares,” MacAuslan says. “There are people who are going to buy bespoke because it’s bespoke. I want people who care more about the way it looks and the way they put it together, and the way it makes them feel when they walk outside the door.”
Hume London shirts start around $535. Standard turnaround, from initial consultation to completion, takes roughly eight weeks. By appointment only. hume-london.co.uk
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WHAT’S NEXT IN HOSPITALITY DESIGN?
THREE MASTERS OF STYLE RUMINATE ABOUT BIG GESTURES, YVES KLEIN BLUE AND EMOTIONAL CONNECTION.
Hong Kong, London, New York
Athough each is remarkably different from the others, the Upper House Hong Kong, The Breakers Palm Beach and New York's Crosby Street Hotel are all iconic — and all share one thing in common: exquisitely memorable style. It takes a masterful point of view to create an icon (and to become one yourself as a designer). The creative visionaries behind these properties and so many others around the world reveal what excites them right now and what they see in the future for the world’s best luxury hotels, restaurants, cruise ships and beyond.
WRITING: KATHRYN ROMEYN
COLLAGE: MARIASOLE BOMBARDI
THE KEEPER OF CALM
In very short order, the Hong Kong-based namesake of André Fu Studio and André Fu Living has become one of Asia’s most sought-after hospitality architect/designers. Past projects include the Upper House Hong Kong, Hotel The Mitsui Kyoto, Capella Taipei, The Fullerton Bay Hotel Singapore, Waldorf Astoria Osaka and more.
Your design sensibility?
Relaxed luxury. My work is quite contextual. I tie it with the locality, but there is a subtle sense of comfort and elegance. For Upper House Hong Kong, my first commission, the brief was comfort and calm; subconsciously, that gave me a lot of insight. That DNA remains the key notion in my work.
Currently in progress?
A full re-fab of Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi, then Upper House Shenzhen.
How do you work?
It’s rarely literal. I’m more interested in emotional connection. At Capella Taipei, for example, there’s a certain feeling of pace that’s orchestrated and curated from the moment the doors open. You see the first space, go through the tunnel, see the other vista. Everything slowly unveils.
Favorite materials?
I’ve always used a lot of timber. Pure, beautiful stones. And a lot of bronze — that’s my staple.
Your colors of the moment?
Mineral blue and sage greens. I love accents of terra-cotta and mustard yellow. I pick colors from fashion collections, as well. I’m always interested in how certain colors represent a particular city. I’ve started working on projects in Seoul; what resonates there are emerald green and cobalt, or Yves Klein blue.
Fashion faves?
Matthieu Blazy [at] Chanel and Jonathan Anderson for Dior. What I do; there are similarities.
Product obsession?
A category that has been increasingly, crazily interesting for me to design is portable lights. I now have more than a dozen. It represents how technology can provoke a sense of freedom in how we use a light.
What’s next in hospitality design?
When everyone is trying to be different and one of a kind, it’s doing something that is still authentic — not putting on the newest material or doing funny things with sustainability. You don’t have to tell; you don’t have to explain: When you’re there, you know.
She’s the style guru behind London’s Kit Kemp Design Studio and cofounder (with husband Tim Kemp) of the always-distinctive Firmdale Hotels. She designed every one of the 11 hotels currently in the Firmdale portfolio, starting with 1985’s Dorset Square Hotel in Marylebone, and continuing on to her latest showcase in Tribeca: the Warren Street Hotel.
Currently in progress?
Two more hotels in London: one in a listed historic building near the British Museum with lots of character, and a new build in Shoreditch. Plus, my new book, Kit Kemp: Design Stories , just came out.
How do you work?
The five Cs: Every room should have color, comfort, craft, character and curation. I might also add confidence and cost.
Favorite part of conceiving a hotel?
It’s finding new craftspeople. It’s loving hands, really. We’re interested in craft, wonderful textiles and things made by hand.
Your colors of the moment?
I call them my yoga colors: mustardy, cinnamony, indigo, terra-cotta, ochre. We like to add something like a spark — a really bright marigold orange, a really sharp cardinal red or an Yves Klein blue.
Design motto?
In any room, there’s always got to be something that makes you smile.
Artists to watch?
Colin Millington, in his 70s, does the most beautiful woolwork pictures, all painted in wool. And Carol Wainwright makes great big wonky pots. Katherine Cuthbert is a fantastic artist. Sasha Compton is a young potter who’s really great. For sculptors, Tony Cragg and Richard Long, of course. We also love SJ Axelby, who does wonderful architectural drawings.
Your personal evolution 40 years in?
It’s amazing how it goes in a circle: Things you started off loving in the very beginning, they suddenly re-evolve. There’s a much cleaner look now, a much stronger look. We try to stay true to one view, which means it’s going to be viewed like Marmite — someone’s going to love it, or they’re going to hate it. But I’d rather that happen than to have no feeling at all.
Most inspiring destinations?
India, Guatemala, Mexico, Argentina. I’m dying to go to Budapest and Transylvania.
Your 2031 hotel-trend prediction?
Getting rid of every bit of wiring. And hotels with more of a salon feel. Also, people want to learn. Our workshops and book salons are very much a part of what we do. We might have Elizabeth Day doing a book talk or SJ Axelby helping you do an illustration of a room. Hotels will feel much more part of the community, and guests will feel it’s added something to their stay.
DOYENNE OF THE DETAILS
After 15 years as a designer, and then partner, at Tihany Design, Alessia Genova became principal of the legendary New York firm in 2024 when founder Adam Tihany retired. Past projects include Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus in Istanbul, Seabourn Pursuit , the just-completed The Breakers Palm Beach and many more.
Currently in progress?
Zero Bond and Sartiano’s restaurants at Wynn Las Vegas, then our first mountain resort, Hotel Bellevue Cortina d’Ampezzo in the Italian Alps later this year. Plus: two hotels in Rome.
How has Tihany Design evolved under your stewardship?
My approach is more subtle and quietly confident. It’s more layered, a bit more emotional, but still place driven.
How do you work?
It’s an architectural approach. For me, it’s about proportion and intention on detailing, which is the essence of Italian design. I’m always asking the team, “What makes it special?” It can’t be pretty and forgettable. There should be at least one thing people will remember. These small moments become the soul of the hotel.
Inspiring destinations?
I am very attached to Milano — the super-detailed gates, the flooring. As an Italian, I don’t want to say France, but I resonate with the richness of craftsmanship there, too. I also constantly look to Tokyo — that rigorous simplicity of line.
Any artists you’re watching?
Richard Serra speaks to my approach of sculptural, big gestures and metallic elements. Also: Etienne Moyat’s very sculptural wooden pieces.
Fashion faves?
Hermès and Loro Piana for the simplicity — a timeless aesthetic that is always excellently executed in the details.
Current furniture fascination?
I almost want to put a paravent screen in every project.
The space you most love designing?
The guest room. It’s intimate and personal and gives me opportunity — because of the scale — to really curate the details and give it more character. The minibar, these days, can be highly designed.
Top textures?
I’m gravitating toward tactility: plasters that are more three-dimensional and hammered metal. In Italian, we say “artigianale,” or craft.
Your colors of the moment?
Deep neutral colors like warm taupe, tobacco and soft charcoal — I like cashmere colors. And recently, I’ve been attracted to rich wine reds.
What do you see ahead?
Quiet luxury, still. But instead of the usual stereotypically “luxury” materials, I think craftsmanship and art will continue to have a more important role.
OLTRE ’ S STYLE ISSUE DARES US TO RESIST THE SEDUCTION OF MADRID — THE MOST UNDERRATED OF EUROPE’S FASHION CAPITALS — A CITY THAT INSPIRES AS BOTH MUSE AND MUSEUM, WHERE ANCIENT HISTORY, FORWARD-LOOKING STYLE AND THE GOOD LIFE INTERTWINE.
Madrid, Spain
On location at
Museo Lázaro Galdiano is often overshadowed by the Prado, Reina Sofía and Thyssen, but it remains one of the best art museums in Madrid. It is the former home of the late Spanish financier (and a foremost patron of culture in 19th century Spain) José Lázaro Galdiano. The museum houses an impressive collection of old masters and romantic period painters like Goya, El Greco, and Velázquez, among others. The Neo-Renaissance architecture and location on the prestigious Calle de Serrano make it all the more worthy of a visit. museolazarogaldiano.es
“I was absolutely impressed with Rosewood’s transformation of Villa Magna. Although the rooftop restaurant and pool are gone, they were replaced by gorgeous penthouse suites — a greater use of space! I felt totally at home, thanks to the warm and friendly staff.”
—Raschinna Findlay, travel advisor
Palomo Spain
This appointment-only studio from one of the country’s most visionary designers is aptly situated on Calle de Argumoso, steps from the Reina Sofía contemporary art museum and surrounded by Madrid’s top art galleries. palomospain.com
Capas Seseña
Just outside of the Puerta del Sol plaza, Capas Seseña has been crafting exquisite, handmade Spanish capes since 1901. sesena.com
Misia
Intentionally sourced and curated garments from small-production independent brands, in the Park Slope-cool Conde Duque neighborhood. misiamadrid.com
Lorenzo Caprile
The man behind some of the most iconic looks of the Spanish royal family, Lorenzo Caprile might best be known for custom wedding dresses, but he also offers great off-the-rack formal wear at this exclusive studio on Calle de Claudio Coello. lorenzocaprile.es
Ekseption
At its sprawling location in the upscale Barrio de Salamanca neighborhood, Ekseption curates both menswear and womens wear collections with pieces by Balenciaga, Celine, JACQUEMUS and others. ekseption.com
JANTAMINIAU
Dutch designer Jan Taminiau handcrafts exquisite couture and off-the-rack gowns at his atelier on the chichi Calle de Lagasca. jantaminiau.com
LOEWE
The ultimate Madrid fashion house, LOEWE’s avant-garde flagship store on the corner of Calle de Goya showcases the best of the craftsmanship and whimsy for which the brand is known. loewe.com
Guantes Luque
An ode to heritage and craftsmanship, Guantes Carlos Luque has been the custom glove maker of choice for discerning Madrileños since 1886. avessa.com
* pictured
The one restaurant we must try?
Saddle — so wonderful ( saddle-madrid.com ).
When you want to feel royal for a day?
The spa at Four Seasons Hotel: top, top, top… You'll feel like a queen.
Your go-to bar?
Pictura at the Mandarin Oriental Ritz.
It's date night: Where are we going?
Dinner at La Esquina del Real in the Austrias neighborhood ( laesquinadelreal.es ), followed by drinks at Bar Cock in Chueca ( barcock.com ).
Anything you’ve been tempted to keep secret?
El Pardo — a fabulous place to visit. See the royal palace, walk through the forest, have lunch outdoors at any of the many restaurants serving game. It is something we Madrileños do but few foreigners have ever heard of. Fun, fun, fun.
Made for Spain & Portugal is an in-country partner who works with your travel advisor to curate bespoke itineraries in Madrid — and well beyond.
Costa Rica
Kevin Quirós plants his tripod in the sand and aims its scope across the Heineken-green inlet at a tapered, oblong shadow peeking out of the mangroves. “We have three types of crocodiles in the Palmares Preserve,” he says. The preserve is 250 acres of tumbling valleys, brackish swamps and sun-scorched forest inhabited mostly by spider monkeys, jaguars and canela hummingbirds (named for the Spanish word for cinnamon.)
Quirós is a native of this province, Guanacaste, but even for an expert on the area’s ecology, locating the stealthy croc can be a challenge. The shape he’s isolated in his scope just now turns out to be the most common variety, “a log-odile,” Quirós says with a laugh. It's just a log. “There’s also the rock-odile.” The third type, the real ones, remain elusive today.
I’ll contend there’s a fourth species that’s migrated to Costa Rica’s Pacific provinces in recent years: the jog-odile. American in origin, this breed is quite active, with a discerning palate and (when not jogging in nature) can be found sheltering in the region’s increasingly luxurious and expanding hotel stock. I encounter one in the middle of a guided sound bath at the new Wellness Shala, an open-air mountaintop pavilion at the Four Seasons Resort Peninsula Papagayo , a 198-room estate pinched between two exquisite beaches outside the Palmares Preserve. I tiptoe along the Shala’s perimeter, which overlooks a turquoisebanded bend in the coastline, so as not to disturb the meditating visitor. The roof, whose undulating silhouette and striated bamboo gills give it the look of a giant chanterelle mushroom, captures the sound and reflects it back in a mesmerizing echo.
W... Plus, there's an Aman on the way.
Four Seasons’ main pool shimmers in an exuberant grove of red ginger and birds-of-paradise. It’s a bubbly, family-friendly scene, but there’s also a separate adults-only pool flanked by cabanas overlooking Playa Virador. I spend a long, languid day here, consuming the jog-odile diet of poufy, za’atar-dusted flatbread and zero-proof hibiscus spritzes, alternating between the cool water and baking in the sun — a reptile in full repose.
While the newly (and thoroughly) revamped Four Seasons Resort Peninsula Papagayo dates to 2004 as the first luxury habitat of Papagayo (the government-owned resort development), Costa Rica’s hotel ecosystem has been growing fast: Auberge , Andaz , Nayara , ORIGINS , W . There’s an Aman on the way, plus the first NIHI outside Indonesia. In the span of three months last year, Waldorf Astoria Punta Cacique , a hillside stunner, and Nekajui Peninsula Papagayo, a RitzCarlton Reserve , added nearly 300 rooms with thousanddollar nightly rates to the region.
At the latter, my assigned manzu (“friend” in native Chorotegan; “butler” in Ritz-Carlton parlance) organizes my forest hike with Quirós, coordinates laundry service and sends daily tide reports via WhatsApp. The tranquil compound, perched over a shaggy ravine and connected to Playa Pochote by a nifty funicular, occupies more curious joggers and hikers with lushly landscaped trails, clandestine beach caves, and a wooden suspension bridge slung cinematically across the gorge. A trio of tented treehouse accommodations and the Nimbu Spa — with the largest outdoor hydrotherapy pool in Central America — await across the bridge. I drift out of my spa cabin smelling like citrusy juanilama, a native medicinal herb, to find that colossal pool empty, as if no one knows it’s even there.
JOURNEY COSTA RICA
Favorite place to drink coffee?
Hacienda AltaGracia. They not only pour an excellent cup, but the baristas can tell the story of each local farmer and the connection between your drink, the people and the land.
Favorite hike?
A private estate near the peninsula where we descend into a dramatic canyon using harnesses. We end with an unforgettable river hike to a hidden lagoon and stunning waterfall.
Favorite beach?
Playa Guiones is magical. But there are countless hidden beaches — some accessible only by boat or serious off-roading. Our Remote Beach Club concept gives guests access while still enjoying the comfort of a shaded lounger and a cooler stocked with cold coconuts and bottles of rosé.
Most underrated part of the country?
The Southern Pacific coast
Best souvenir?
Handwoven totes made by a Boruca co-op.
Journey Costa Rica is an in-country partner who works with your travel advisor to curate bespoke Costa Rican itineraries.
“Costa Rica is so much more than beach resorts. The Arenal area offers jungle, waterfalls, hot springs and incredible wildlife — but to really experience it, you'll need to hire a private guide, because what looks like an ordinary tree can be home to a sloth, a frog or a nesting toucan.”
—Ashley Olano, travel advisor
HOTEL DIRECTORY
AMOR ARENAL
Indulgent wellness — spa cacao ceremonies, house-made kombucha in the minibar — is the ethos at these 31 adults-only casitas nestled seamlessly into the Arenal forest.
* PICTURED
ANDAZ PENINSULA PAPAGAYO RESORT
Situated among three beaches along Culebra Bay, the 176-room Andaz taps the brand’s hip DNA with a vinyl-spinning cafe, Southeast Asian restaurant and aerial yoga.
EL MANGROOVE, AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION
Close to the lively Hermosa and Coco Beaches, the energetic, 121-room Mangroove is for visitors who prefer exploring over stopand-flop.
FOUR SEASONS RESORT PENINSULA PAPAGAYO
Exuberant, tropical and family friendly (without sacrificing style), the 199-room Four Seasons claims one of Costa Rica’s most enviable locations, an isthmus between two Pacific beaches.
HACIENDA ALTAGRACIA, AUBERGE COLLECTION
Just 50 freestanding casitas sprout from AtlaGracia’s 150 acres of lush highlands, where guest programming features horseback rides and coffee cuppings from the on-site farm.
HOTEL NANTIPA
Nantipa (native Chorotegan for beach) is home to a collection of 29 earth-toned bungalows, suites and villas — an easy walk to the famous surf breaks of Santa Teresa.
LOS ALTOS RESORT
A sleek, 39-suite tower rising above the jungle canopy, Los Altos sits minutes off several pristine beaches and at the biodiverse doorstep of Manuel Antonio National Park.
NAYARA GARDENS
Relaxation and adventure hold hands at this Arenal National Park 50-roomer, where hanging around (like the resident sloths) happens on zip lines and in spa cabanas.
NAYARA TENTED CAMP
Tropical birdsong and rustling rainforest set the soundtrack for 38 luxurious tents pitched in the verdant Arenal National Park foothills.
NAYARA SPRINGS
The adults-only jewel of Nayara’s Arenal trio keeps the experience ultra-private with only 35 villas, each with a private pool fed by volcano-warmed thermal springs.
NEKAJUI PENINSULA PAPAGAYO, A RITZ-CARLTON RESERVE
Native tradition grounds everything from the landscaping to the ceramics and design motifs throughout the 107 accommodations at this private, food-and-drinks-focused resort.
ORIGINS LODGES
Crafted from indigenous materials and furnished with dreamy canopy beds and ocular skylights, ORIGINS’ 14 ultra-luxury lodges on two neaby estates turn any stay into a honeymoon.
TABACÓN THERMAL RESORT & SPA
A sustainability-led spa anchors this 105-room resort, whose 900 acres in the North of Arenal are crisscrossed by warm, mineral-rich streams and cascading waterfalls.
W COSTA RICA – RESERVA CONCHAL
Situated on a turquoise Guanacaste cove, the W exudes energy with its public art, day-club pool and ebullient colors splashed across 150 rooms.
WALDORF ASTORIA COSTA RICA PUNTA CACIQUE
A posh newcomer that instantly won sustainability awards, this 188-room hillside compound — layered with living roofs and terraced pools — cascades down to privatefeeling Penca Beach.
Your travel advisor can arrange a detailed Costa Rica itinerary as well as secure extra perks, including resort credits and complimentary daily breakfast, at these Internova CURATED and SELECT resorts.
Favorite excursion?
A private yacht cruise along the Papagayo coastline, with a private beachside barbecue.
Favorite place to drink coffee?
We offer a signature transfer that turns the airport drive into an experience, starting with an early stop at Poás Volcano for a short hike and breathtaking views, followed by a visit to Hacienda Alsacia coffee farm.
Favorite beach?
Santa Teresa stands out for its laid-back, bohemian vibe and natural beauty.
Most underrated part of the country?
Río Celeste. It’s one of Costa Rica’s most magical natural wonders: lush rainforest, waterfalls, hot springs and excellent wildlife without the crowds.
Best stargazing?
The Osa Peninsula, where the exceptionally dark skies allow constellations, planets and even the Milky Way to shine brightly.
Costa Rican Trails is an in-country partner who works with your travel advisor to curate bespoke Costa Rican itineraries.
A REVIVAL OF BRITAIN’S SILVER-SERVICE GRILLS IS IN FULL SWING. THERE’S NOWHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD TO DINE QUITE LIKE THIS.
London, England
WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY: BRAD A. JOHNSON
“Isn’t it amazing?”
The hostess whispers this as the trolley arrives. I open my mouth to respond, but I've been rendered mute by giddiness.
A dark-suit-clad captain at The Grill at The Dorchester in Mayfair has just wheeled a beautiful beef Wellington to my table and has set about carving it with a 20-inch blade.
My heartbeat accelerates when I notice the filet’s deep red center, the meat snuggled tightly in contrasting layers of bright green and reddish brown. “Spinach crêpe and a mousse of wild mushrooms and chicken." I wiggle myself upright to get a closer look. (If anyone's still waiting for the answer, it's: “Yes, absolutely amazing.")
London has, for years, been a top global destination for food lovers. The first time the Michelin Guide awarded a star to a Thai restaurant, it did so in Belgravia. And it’s widely understood that London’s Indian restaurants far outshine anything in India. French bistros, Israeli grills, Portuguese wine bars, Filipino delis, Japanese kaiseki... This city’s dining scene stirs the culinary libido like few others, which is titillating for people who live here.
And, for me, too — but what excites me most as a visitor right now is the recent revival of Britain’s posh, silver-service grills, with all their uniquely London pomp and spectacle.
“It’s not a proper British grill without a beef Wellington,” says Jacob Keen-Downs, the new head chef at The Grill at The Dorchester. The hotel relaunched this near-century-old grill in August after a kitchen shake-up and menu reset.
“And Dover sole — that’s a spectacularly good-eating fish,” Keen-Downs adds, receiving no argument from me.
On the other edge of Mayfair at The Connaught Grill , chef Ramiro Lafuente Martinez believes, “It’s not a British grill without Sunday roast and a proper Yorkshire pudding.”
He’s right, too, but I already spent my only Sunday of this trip at The Dorchester, so I’m dining at The Connaught midweek. When the front door swooshes open, I spot Lafuente Martinez standing in front of his grill like a mad scientist in his lab, enveloped in a swirl of smoke. A seductive perfume of animal fat dripping onto smoldering charcoal ensnares me and pulls me in. Ahhh
The Connaught’s grill opened in 1955 but shuttered at the turn of the millennium. Four years ago, Jean-Georges Vongerichten resurrected it. Overseen by Lafuente Martinez, this is the city’s most contemporary reenactment — not merely in menu but also with its austere, modern design, with exquisite woodwork by Mira Nakashima. (Architects will be duly impressed.) To fully understand this 40-seat bolt-hole — and its charcoal juju — one needn’t wait for the roast trolley on Sunday or even tonight’s table-side steak Diane. Just take a bite of bread. The mere scent of it sends shivers down my spine. The house-made brioche (infused with ashes) gets slathered with fermented butter and toasted atop live embers. It's a blast of epinephrine that primes my senses for the oncoming head rush: a Scotch egg with truffled mayo and red-veined sorrel, a trio of Britain’s peerless Orkney Island scallops grilled in their shells, a massive bone-in filet of Aberdeen Angus and, finally, crêpes Suzette flambéed table-side so dramatically that I glance around for the fire exit.
waiters — some appearing to have worked here since 1423 — splash Perrier-Jouët nonchalantly into Champagne coupes without spilling a drop.
Because there’s no legal limit to how many beef Wellingtons a person can eat in a week, I find myself the next day in Knightsbridge, luxuriating for hours over lunch in the atrium restaurant of The Lanesborough. A few years ago, the hotel rechristened this room as The Lanesborough Grill by Shay Cooper — Cooper being the chef and a longtime champion of British-heritage cuisine. Few atmospheres skew more Regency than this chandeliered spectacle. The hotel even secured a rare partnership with Royal Worcester to supply the grill’s bespoke porcelain tableware. The Welly and the Dover sole are sublime.
“It’s not a British grill if it doesn’t serve proud British produce,” Cooper says, backing up the sentiment with a delightful tart of beets, figs and goat curds.
Incidentally, it was Shay’s departure from a previous post at The Goring in Belgravia that ultimately paved the way for 2024’s glamorous redux of The Dining Room at The Goring , subsequently helmed by chef Graham Squire. There’s been a domino effect across the city. Last July in Picadilly, the Hotel Café Royal relaunched The Café Royal Grill after luring chef Kevin Gratton to London from York. He’s another ardent believer in British locavore cooking.
“It’s not a proper British grill if you do not serve the very best, fiercely seasonal ingredients available,” Gratton says.
While the most extravagant grills reside inside the poshest (often oldest) hotels, this concept does not require bedrooms overhead. On a quiet Mayfair side street, tucked among prestigious tailors, cobblers and gunsmiths, The Guinea (whose roots as a pub rewind to 1423) opened its silverservice grill room adjacent to the pub in 1952. A nip/tuck and expansion in 2024 gave it new life. Stiff-backed waiters — some appearing to have worked here since the early pub days — splash Perrier-Jouët nonchalantly into Champagne coupes without spilling a drop. An intense musk of dry-aged beef hangs heavily in the air. I can barely contain a squeal of joy as I squeeze into an antique chair at a table built for one. I eavesdrop on conversations about diamond imports and offshore-oil-drilling leases while devouring kidneys on toast and a glorious beef-and-Guinness pie crowned with a single fried oyster. My heart is full. Or maybe that’s my stomach?
For anyone who loves a good riddle, there’s an even tougher reservation than The Guinea or The Connaught or The Dorchester et al. The Devonshire in Soho has been a corner pub since 1793. But when it changed hands three years ago, the new owners also purchased the two floors above it, which they transformed into a proper grill room. A hostess in the pub guards the door to the upper levels like a pit bull. Upstairs bookings open every Thursday at 3 pm for tables three weeks out, for which — I quickly discover — it’s far easier to secure a seat at lunch on a weekday than dinner any night. No matter. Chef Ashley PalmerWatts serves essentially the same handwritten menu: wild scallops from Devon (down south), langoustines from the cold waters of Oban (to the north), lamb and beef from the Scottish Highlands — all butchered in-house and cooked over flaming beechwood. At lunch on Sundays, PalmerWatts fires up the prime rib. If you get in for that, call me; I’ll fly over and join you.
Any conversation about London grills would be disrespectful without raising a toast to the enduring legacy of The Ivy , which rose to peak cultural gravitas in the 1990s under the stewardship of restaurateur Jeremy King, London’s elder statesman of table craft — and keeper of society’s most valuable Rolodex. He left The Ivy years ago, of course, but he’s turning heads again this season in Covent Garden with the relaunch of Simpson’s in the Strand at The Savoy, kicking off a new era for what some historians insist was the original silver-service, meat-trolley dining venue for Britain’s leisure class. At press time for this issue, the grand reopening — a moving target for seemingly ever — was firmly slated for March.
When in London, consider staying at the Kennedy House at the new Chancery Rosewood, which occupies the former U.S. Embassy on Grosvenor Square. The embassy was originally completed as JFK took office in 1960. The hotel does a spectacular job of honoring this piece of history.
—Jolie Goldring, travel advisor
THE CAFÉ ROYAL GRILL
The Regent Street icon that birthed a hotel in its name.
CHARLIE’S
Sir Rocco Forte’s ode to his father at Brown’s Hotel in Mayfair.
THE CONNAUGHT GRILL
Scallops! Scotch egg! And table-side spectacle in Mayfair.
THE DEVONSHIRE
Downstairs: beer. Upstairs: a wood-fire grill room in Soho.
THE DINING ROOM AT THE GORING
Pushing haute-cuisine limits of what a grill can be, in Belgravia.
EKSTEDT AT THE YARD
Nordic heart, British soul at Great Scotland Yard Hotel in Westminster.
THE ENGLISH GRILL
Fairy-tale time warp at The Rubens at The Palace, opposite The Royal Mews.
THE GRILL AT THE DORCHESTER
Beef Welly perfection with all the befitting pomp in Mayfair.
THE GUINEA
When James Bond visits Mayfair, he probably eats here.
THE IVY MARKET GRILL
The latest Ivy offshoot, designed by Martin Brudnizki, in Covent Garden.
THE LANESBOROUGH GRILL
A Bridgerton dream in Knightsbridge. Impeccable service.
SIMPSON'S IN THE STRAND
The next big thing, again, for Jeremy King in Covent Garden.
Baden-Baden, Germany
WRITING AND PHOTOGRAPHY: SIMON URWIN
On a crisp early morning in the thick of the Black Forest, I find myself learning how to “separate heaven and earth.” The movement — one of eight key exercises in Qigong (Chinese moving meditation) — is being taught by Steven Helmholdt, a personal trainer and rehab specialist at Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa in Baden-Baden. “It helps calm the mind and improve physical well-being, especially when done in nature,” he says, directing me to lift one palm skyward and the other down toward the forest floor.
To a soundtrack of birdsong and distant church bells, Helmholdt then leads me through “drawing the bow to shoot the eagle” and “wise owl gazes backward.” Local dog-walkers drift past, seemingly unfazed by my attempted balletic movements among the pines.
“It’s perfectly normal. There’s no need to feel self-conscious,” he assures me. “People have been coming here for all kinds of health and well-being treatments for more than 2,000 years.” They’ve seen it all.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Baden-Baden has been closely associated with healing since Roman times, when Emperor Caracalla first recognized the restorative powers of its hot springs. In the centuries that followed, European royalty and aristocracy arrived to take the curative waters, and by the 19th century, this tradition had given rise to a cosmopolitan spa resort — with Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa, opened in 1872, setting the standard for German luxury.
Part of the Oetker Masterpiece Collection, Brenners reopened last fall following an expansive two-year renovation. Primped and polished, the grande dame of the Black Forest now glows anew. Its refreshed design honors its belle époque history and heritage while introducing a vibrant, contemporary point of view. Across 104 rooms and suites, antique furnishings are now set against a bold palette of coral orange, sage green and duckegg blue, with additional playful details that subtly evoke a Wes Anderson-esque sensibility — most notably with showpiece wallpapers depicting theatergoers in their opera boxes and clouds of Montgolfier-style hot-air balloons. I find my secondfloor, 750-square-foot prestige junior suite particularly stylish, with its grand, floor-to-ceiling-marble bathroom, sitting area and glass French doors that open onto a private balcony with sweeping views of the leafy Lichtentaler Allee park.
Invigorated by the morning’s exercise, I decide I’ve earned a long lunch in the hotel’s Michelin-listed Wintergarten Restaurant, which boasts a delightful conservatory setting overlooking the River Oos. The menu proves to be just as enticing as the views, built around hearty local ingredients and an excellent selection of German wines. I begin with a rich, plummy Spätburgunder pinot noir alongside a steak tartare — the beef sharpened with mustard, Cognac and a dash of Tabasco. A saddle of local venison follows, glazed in a clovespiced jus, before a spring-fresh riesling accompanies the classic Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte dessert, its plump, round shape echoing the pom-pom-covered Bollenhut hats worn in Black Forest folk dress since the mid-18th century.
The moreish combination of cherries, kirsch and whipped cream is my last belt-loosening indulgence of the weekend. The following morning, I make my way to Brenners’ residential medi-spa complex to explore its newly expanded wellness programs. Beyond the expected swimming pool, gym and treatment rooms, the hotel distinguishes itself through its firstrate medical facilities, which, much like a private hospital, offer a wide range of specialist treatments — everything from cryotherapy and cosmetic procedures to clinical sleep analysis.
I begin with a full-body checkup by Dr. Diane KönigEngelhardt, who (with warm, Teutonic efficiency) checks my body fat and muscle mass before scanning my internal organs with an ultrasound. Despite my clean bill of health, she suggests I could optimize further by cutting back on the Kirschtorte and shedding a few pounds.
Baden-Baden has been closely associated with healing since Roman times, when Emperor Caracalla first recognized the restorative powers of its hot springs.
“We went to Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa with our 10-year-old daughter and 1-year-old dog on a European road trip. Hector (the dachshund) was treated like royalty with his own setup, while Olivia (daughter) was welcomed with lots of toys. Plus, the restaurant has great menu choices for kids.”
—Michael Halsall,
travel
advisor
A friendly nurse then slips an IV into my arm, and soon an immune-boosting cocktail of vitamins and folic acid is flowing into my system. “This will really get your motor going,” she promises. Half an hour afterward, I sense a surge of energy, and after a gym workout, a steam and a plunge-pool dip, I end the day in the hands of Anna Wiciok, a JetPeel practitioner.
Wiciok blasts a mix of aloe vera and hyaluronic acid onto my face through a nozzle at 500 mph. Icy cold and incredibly tickle-inducing, the treatment, she explains, both stimulates microcirculation and removes dead cells, leaving the skin strengthened, soothed and hydrated. “Wunderbar!” she declares at the end. “Now you are really glowing.”
On my last morning, my butter-soft skin and I head off on a city tour suggested by the hotel concierge. For a place of its size, Baden-Baden delivers a cultural offering that far exceeds expectations: Within walking distance are the excellent Richard Meier-designed Museum Frieder Burda, the Festspielhaus — Germany’s largest opera house — and the elegantly chandeliered Kurhaus, once described by Marlene Dietrich as “the most beautiful casino in the world.”
My final stop is the neoclassical Trinkhalle, or pump house, completed in 1842, whose vivid frescoes recount the folklore surrounding the region’s celebrated healing waters. It’s a reminder that, for centuries, travelers have come from far and wide to restore mind, body and soul in Baden-Baden. After three days of rest, relaxation and rejuvenation at the sublime Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa, I can confidently say it remains a journey well worth taking.
The nearest airport, Karlsruhe/Baden-Baden, offers limited flights with low-cost carriers only. Frankfurt Airport is the preferred gateway — a 100-mile journey reached in 90 minutes with the hotel’s private car service. Your travel advisor can secure Internova SELECT perks, including a $100 resort credit and complimentary daily breakfast for two. $$
with
WRITING: RAMONA SAVISS
In 2019, South African fashion designer Thebe Magugu became the first person from Africa to win the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers. Since then, he's launched a limited-edition capsule collection at Dior with Maria Grazia Chiuri (who's now chief creative officer at Fendi) and orchestrated a designer swap with Valentino’s then creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli (who's now at Balenciaga). And when Belmond’s Mount Nelson hotel in Cape Town asked if he might design a stand-alone, two-story villa, the answer was immediate. Viewing his first interior hospitality project as a physical extension of his fashion brand, Magugu instinctively focused on colors, textures and patterns that were deeply rooted in South African tradition. That partnership didn’t stop with one villa debut, however. Inside the hotel’s historic main building, Belmond recently launched Magugu House Cape Town, a concept store and fashion-forward art gallery showcasing limited-edition pieces from Magugu as well as items by other African designers, artists and writers. “It gives me a sense of utopia,” Magugu says of the hotel. “It’s right in the city yet feels like a complete escape.”
Earliest memory of travel?
My mom used to save up and take us to a resort in Christiana, South Africa. It was designed to feel like a rocky forest with freeflowing rivers, which — in hindsight — might have been man-made.
Do you wear sweatpants on airplanes?
Never! I’m usually in a full look, often from my collections.
For a one-week trip, how many pairs of shoes do you bring?
One for every day, which means hauling multiple suitcases. It’s the cross I’ve chosen to bear.
Hotel spa or a night on the town?
A night on the town. I love partying.
Most embarrassing travel moment?
On a flight to Paris, I had a nightmare and screamed so loudly, I woke the entire cabin. It was mortifying. I’m convinced Air France still talks about it.
Which country have you visited the most?
France. President Macron actually wrote me a letter saying I should consider it my second home. I framed it, but perhaps he writes these to many people, and I am not as special as I think.
Most gratifying stamp on your passport?
Anywhere in the Middle East: the scale of the architecture, the modest fashion, the restraint in design... I love culture shocks that challenge me aesthetically.
What does the villa at Mount Nelson represent to you?
I wanted guests, even if they never step outside of the suite, to feel like they have a beautifully laid out summary of South African design, art, music and food. I wanted it to feel like home.
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DESTINATION GUIDE: WHOA, COSTA RICA, IS THAT YOU? LOOKING FINO MADRILEÑO STYLE: IT’S TIME FOR A FRESH LOOK AT SPAIN’S FASHION CAPITAL WHERE TO SHOP NEXT: ALL THE NEW MUST-VISIT BOUTIQUES WORLDWIDE GERMANIC POETRY: FINDING LONGEVITY AND WELLNESS IN THE BLACK FOREST BRITISH AWAKENING: THE FABULOUS REVIVAL OF LONDON’S SILVER-SERVICE GRILLS PLUS: CRUISING, DAVID BOWIE, BESPOKE SHIRTS AND OUR DJ-CURATED PLAYLIST