March 2024 • Vol. 30 • Issue 3
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Silicone Alternative Solutions for Hair Care …Mythili Nori
ilicones have been widely used in the cosmetic industry for decades. They are exceptionally versatile and impart multifaceted benefits across a wide range of beauty and personal care products. However, some of these materials are now limited by regulatory restrictions on their use. Due to an increasing focus on their toxicological and environmental impact, consumers are now gravitating towards natural, safe, and sustainable alternatives. This article provides an overview on how silicones have shaped the hair care industry and the continuous research necessary to find innovative and environmentally friendly alternatives to silicones.
n Silicones in the Hair Care Industry
Silicones have been important ingredients in hair care products since the 1950s. Silicones or silicone derivatives are widely used in shampoos, conditioners, colorants, and styling products where they act as either emollients, humectants, film formers, antifoam agents, anti-static agents, or binding agents.1 These materials range from basic cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) to polyether- and amino-based fluids and silicone resins.2 All silicones have a natural origin (silica), but synthetic processes are used to create the plethora of silicone ingredients used in cosmetics.3 Linear PDMS, also known as dimethicone, is available in a range of molecular weights and viscosities and is the most used silicone in hair care applications. The PDMS variants provide excellent conditioning and performance which increases with higher viscosity. Use of dimethicone reduces combing forces, provides great sensory benefits like gliding, and adds suppleness to hair. Phenyl trimethicone is also based on linear PDMS with the addition of phenyl groups.4 This combination results in a higher refractive index that effectively coats the hair enhancing its shine and leaving hair soft. PDMS polymers are also highly water resistant which makes them effective agents in reducing tackiness of the formulations. Cyclic PDMS (cyclomethicone fluids) are characterized by ring structures typically containing three to six groups per ring.2 These fluids decrease combing forces of hair by reducing friction and surface energy.4 Due to their volatility and fast spreading properties, they provide transient gloss to hair, leaving hair weightless and without any build-up. Cyclomethicones are more compatible with a wider range of ingredients compared to linear PDMS. Silicone gum/fluid blends provide a high level of substantive conditioning and frizz control while imparting a soft and lubricious feel.4 There are silicones that are modified, like amodimethicones (amine-functionalized silicones) or alkylmethicones (replacing methyl groups on PDMS with alkyl chains), which are widely used in hair care applications as well. Amodimethicones impart specific benefits such as color protection, heat protection, repair, reduced flyway, and deep conditioning. (continued on Page 6) The above-mentioned silicones are not water soluble, whereas silicone polyethers are a family of water
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...see pages 10-17 for more information.
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