ALA MOANA CENTER ROYAL HAWAIIAN CENTER
Here in Hawaiâi, the concept of aloha permeates every aspect of our island home. From its rich arts and culture scene to the ecodiversity of the land, there are many treasures to find both in the people and places that reside here.
Given the worldâs current predicament with Covid-19, we feel especially fortunate to live in these islands where we can appreciate surreal indoor-outdoor living spaces and entertaining, but most of all that resounding aloha spirit. Across the city of Honolulu weâve seen aloha in actionâpeople treating one another with love, compassion, and respect. By tapping into what makes Hawaiâi truly special, our communities have been able to come together in both good and difficult times to help our neighbors and preserve the âÄina.
While weâve missed some of our friends who have not been able to travel so easily as of late, we also look forward to brighter times as communities around the planet continue to recover. As you flip through the pages of this issue of Palm, we hope to comfort you with a sense of aloha too.
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16 LETTER From the Developer
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82 20 TABLE OF CONTENTS ARTS 26 Ocean Calling 34 Beauty and Batik BUSINESS 44 A Stronger Community CULTURE 50 The Family Stone 58 Tracking Manu o KÅ« 68 Rains Remembered DESIGN 82 Masked Mystique 94 Holy Water 104 Tropic Obscura ESCAPES 116 A Sense of Place 124 Site for Solomeo FARE 132 Healing Garden 104 ON THE COVER
Nora Aguinaldo, a Honolulu filmmaker, is photographed by John Hook in PÄlolo Valley.
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The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Waikiki Beach 383 Kalaimoku St., Honolulu, HI 8F lobby le vel | 808 729 9729 4 hour complimentar y valet parking la vie waikiki.com Thoughtful cuisine inspired by the worldâs french cultures Dinner Wednesday - Sunday from 5:30 - 9:00 PM
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âTracksâ (cropped) from Forever Drowning
Blurred by time and compact in their composition, photographer Mark Kushimi â s postmodernist seascapes invite closer introspection.
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Because we are animals, we respond viscerally to landscapes and oceanscapes. At their best, these vistas seem to transcend time. Weâre soothed by a horizon stretching from the periphery of one eye to the other. That is what happens in the Forever Drowning oceanscapes by Mark Kushimi. Rarely are images of nature as distilled as they are in this photographic series.
The oceanscapes stand apart in Kushimiâs oeuvre. Since his early days as a designer spearheading the ethic of Contrast magazine, his design sense has felt internationally informed, while his subject matter and attitude are tenaciously local. Visually, whether portraits or cityscapes, his images are connected by tight composition. See his sequences of building facades or outdoor staircases, for instance. Often, inside the tight composition, Kushimiâs urban images recall the relaxed modernism of Honolulu in the 1950s and â60s.
Forever Drowning, however, subverts customary metrics of photography, like composition and even subject matter, with sheer directness. The oceanscapes catapult us into metaphysics. They seem, with their Zen-like reduction, to position us in the flow of time. How simple, these nearly centered horizon lines! Actually, no horizon is simple, because of who we are now.
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ì¬ì§ìê° ë§í¬ ì¿ ì믞ì ë°ë€ í겜ì ëììŽ ì¬ìì ìŽê³ ë§ìì ë¬ëì€ëë€. 28 A ARTS Mark Kushimi
This is why an unbroken horizon can say so much: We know there is history and we know there are limits. We recognize national boundaries as well as cultural and ethnic distinctions that introduce political, social, legal, ecological, and other considerations to natural spaces. We know as well that there are environmental limits. We understand the fragility of natural systems we are a part of, and we accept our culpability in the disappearance of that world. Natural vistas inevitably, and they must, call out these considerations.
In 2020, we have deconstructed everything we can think ofâthe problems and the solutionsâand often found the constituent parts reeking. Recycling, for example, we thought it was working, now that seems delusional. Veterans of postmodernism, we look at Kushimiâs glowing, starkly simple ocean images and wonder, Is this ironic? Where are the fast food wrappers? Is he trying to get away with something? Do you sense irony or cynicism in Kushimiâs work? No?
In that way, his viewpoint is essentially postpostmodern, or even meta-modern, and feels so right for this time in Honolulu. The 21st centuryâs meta-modernist project, after all, is to reboot in new ways toward a less fragmented future. Not prescriptive, Kushimiâs is a basically integrative aesthetic. In this series, reduction to the horizon, and a glow around the horizon, says so much.
For the moment, the oceanscapes are sunsets, taken with a Hasselblad 120mm film camera. âIâve taken sunrises before, but they have a different feel,â Kushimi says. âFor now I like the idea of diminishing light. The darker it gets, the more I see.â
What could inform a sunrise picture, one could ask? What would make such an image appropriate? Maybe Kushimi has to feel it. Once weâre living a little closer to what we need daily, when weâre really feeling our place in the planet, maybe the sunrise idea will coalesce. Until then, Kushimi has pretty much captured our collective horizon heading into the third decade of the 21st century.
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PALM
32 A ARTS Mark Kushimi
âIâve taken sunrises before, but they have a different feel. For now I like the idea of diminishing light. The darker it gets, the more I see,â Kushimi says.
Above, âChuns Reefâ
Beauty and Batik
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34 A PALM
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Yvonne Cheng
More than 50 years ago, the artist Yvonne Cheng took a batik class at Bishop Museum. Since then, sheâs become one of the most enduring figurative painters in the islands.
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Yvonne Chengâs artistry in Honolulu has many chapters. The 79-year-old artist is known best for her large-scale paintings of Polynesian women, some that have been rendered into public mosaic murals across the islands and purchased for private collections. But her career is also full of surprises, with projects including stained glass for a chapel at the Grand Wailea resort on Maui, textiles for Kahala Sportswear, and interior design for a local CEOâs offices and private jet.
A working artist for more than 50 years, she still finds herself painting most mornings at her garden studio in MÄnoa. When I join Cheng at her home on a Saturday morning to talk story, the moment feels privileged. Cool MÄnoa breezes sweep through the yard as we converse over pastries and tea, looking back on a life rich in art and experience.
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PALM
36 A ARTS Yvonne Cheng
A look inside the open-air workspace of Yvonne Cheng.
Batik is a textile tradition native to Java and is a part of Indonesiaâs national dress.
Born in Surabaya, East Java, in 1941, Cheng was raised in Jakarta, Indonesiaâs capital. The 1940s were tumultuous, beginning with the Japanese occupation of the country during World War II. One of Chengâs earlier childhood memories was being taken to an internment camp set up by the Japanese. Following the war, Indonesia declared independence from the Dutch Empire, and after a bloody four-year revolution, it received formal independence from its colonizers in 1949.
After the war, Cheng spent her childhood and teenage years in Dutch schools, where she says her education was âvery intenseâ and unsurprisingly Eurocentric. âThe crazy thing is that we had to learn the entire history of
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PALM 38 A ARTS
Yvonne Cheng
Chengâs paintings of Polynesian women have been rendered into public mosaic murals across the islands and purchased for private collections.
Holland, but we learned very little of Indonesian history,â says Cheng, who began studying art and drawing at a young age. Her grasp of the human figure is no doubt partly due to close study of Dutch masters like Rembrandt, Vermeer, and Van Gogh. But it wasnât until 1967, when Cheng and her then husband settled in Hawaiâi after a stint in Cambridge, Massachusetts, where they sought political refuge, that her art career began.
Upon moving to Honolulu, Cheng enrolled in a batik class at Bishop Museum. Batik, a textile tradition native to Java, is a part of Indonesiaâs national dress and a tradition with which she was familiar. Learning the labor-intensive wax-resist dyeing technique thousands of miles away from her homeland was a re-education of sorts. Simultaneously, she became fascinated with Oceanic textiles found in the museumâs collections. Tapa, bark cloth typically made from wauke (the paper mulberry plant), is found throughout the Great Ocean. In SÄmoa it is called siapo. In Tonga, ngatu. Fijians call it masi. In Hawaiâi, it is called kapa and was used for clothing, sleeping, religious ceremonies, and burial practices. Cheng was struck by the intricate geometric designs and the delicate textured watermarks beaten into the cloth itself, a signature of the practice in Hawaiâi. In the late 1960s through the 1970s, the second Hawaiian Renaissance was growing, and kapa, considered a lost art form since the 1890s, was being rediscovered by artists like Malia Solomon, Puanani Van Dorpe, Marie McDonald, and Moana Eisele. It was during the Renaissance that Cheng began to develop her own visual language. She celebrates the pattern work of tapa through the use of her native batik process. Stunning examples of her batik work can be found in the stateâs Art in Public Places Collection and at the University of Hawaiâi Hamilton Library. She would work in batik through the 1980s before taking up painting on canvas as a less laborious process.
Till this day, Chengâs compositions almost always feature Polynesian women of a bygone era, often draped in swaths of kapa, tied across their bodies into pÄâÅ« (skirts), kÄ«hei (capes), and kÄ«kepa (sarongs). The geometric designs cascade over powerful brown bodies, larger than life, buoyant, floating on the surface of the work. Like the akua wÄhine of Hawaiian mythology, her figures exude a powerful sensuality, gracefulness, and dignity that is almost mystical, commanding the gaze of the viewer. Currently, she is working on a new painting in her studio for an upcoming show. On the easel sits a square 4-by-4 canvas depicting a Hawaiian woman in traditional dress with the verdant Koâolau mountains as a backdrop. Mauka from her yard is a similar view without a cloud in sight, nor regal woman, whose face and body she paints from her imagination.
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PALM 40 A ARTS Yvonne Cheng
Through the 1980s, Cheng worked almost exclusively in batik before taking up painting on canvas.
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A Stronger Community
From virtual dance parties to drive-in movie events, Kapolei Commons makes safe, family-friendly adjustments to its operations.
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Kapolei Commons, West Oâahuâs premier shopping, dining and entertainment destination, showcasing Target, Hawaiâiâs first luxury theater and many local eateries, continues to navigate a new retail environment. Business is ongoing, but itâs definitely not business as usual. Rather, the center focused on flexibility and creativity, producing fun family-friendly events that showcase its merchants and bring people together in a safe environment.
The original Owners and Developers of the center, the MacNaughton and Kobayashi Group, launched an âold-fashionedâ series of events starting in May, with a focus on unique and entertaining experiences for residents.
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BUSINESS Kapolei Commons 44 B
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Text provided by Katie Kaanapu Images courtesy of Kapolei Commons
A hub for culture, food, shopping and innovative events, Kapolei Commons is comprised of more than 425,000 square-feet of curated retail, restaurant and entertainment space. Welcome to a dynamic area designed for exploration and engagement. Come and spend your dayâto inspire, enjoy and discover.
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First up was a virtual family dance party, which was live-streamed via Zoom. Remote DJs spun current hits, and customers danced the night away from the comfort and privacy of their own homes. If you are having a hard time visualizing what a virtual family dance party is, picture your last Zoom meeting, but with everyone listening and dancing to your favorite musical hits.
Kapolei Commons took advantage of its ample parking field, the convenient location, and close ties to its luxury Regal Theatre by launching classic drive-in movies at the center. What better way to start than with The Goonies? If you have ever had the pleasure of watching a movie at a drive-in, then you already know that there is no other moviegoing experience quite like it. For many, the drive-in offering at Kapolei Commons was their first experience of this retro phenomenon.
With the success of the drive-in movie events, Kapolei Commons also hosted a series of three drive-in live music concert series, which showcased some of Hawaiiâs most beloved musicians. This was Hawaiiâs first ever drive-in concert series.
âWe are thrilled to be able to continue to offer familyfriendly events at Kapolei Commons, especially in light of the Covid-19 pandemic. Continuing to host events at the center is important to us, now more than ever,â said Patrick Kobayashi, chief executive officer of Kobayashi Group. âWe know that times are hard for everyone right now and we hope that our events provide the community and our merchants with a special offering, and a sense of normalcy and excitement,â added Emily Porter, chief operating officer of MacNaughton.
Merchants at Kapolei Commons have pivoted as well and have seen continued success from the events throughout the past few months. âWe have always appreciated the partnership and open communication that we have at Kapolei Commons. It is one of the reasons why we decided to open our second restaurant at the shopping center,â said Henry Yoon, founding partner of DB Restaurant Group. âKapolei Commons understands the needs of our local startup both prior and during the pandemic. Their commitment to our growth and to the Kapolei community has helped us navigate this challenging time. Simply put, they have our backs. And for that, we are forever grateful.â
Executing an original event like Hawaiâiâs first ever drive-in concert was an immense undertaking on its own. But having an opportunity to partner partnering with eager and professional talent on Island to ensure a memorable experience has been rewarding.
What does the future hold for drive-in events in Hawaiâi? One thing is certain: Kapolei Commons will continue to develop and introduce innovative events for years to come.
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The Family Stone
50 C CULTURE Surfing PALM
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A surfboard carver readies his teenage granddaughter to carry on the surfing traditions of their ancestors.
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The morning is cool and gray and the ocean is pumping out swell after foamy swell. Itâs midJanuary and the conditions are a little messy in WaikÄ«kÄ«, but nevertheless, it makes an amusing playground for skilled surfers, even the two daring souls who showed up with heavy wooden surfboards hand carved by Native Hawaiian craftsman Tom âPÅhakuâ Stone, whose self-given Hawaiian name also means âstone,â in the tradition of ancient papa heâe nalu.
âMaybe we should surf the shore break instead?â suggests Tom, half-joking, to his granddaughter Savanna Stone. Just then, the 90-pound solid-redwood board the
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âIt skipped a generation, but Iâm teaching her like my dad taught me, out of his aloha,â says Tom âPÅhakuâ Stone.
former semi-pro surfer lugged onto the beachâa replica of a kÄ«koâo owned by late Hawaiian surf legend Duke Kahanamoku, complete with his blocky monogramâtips over and conks him on the head. Savanna, who is 16 years old and a professional surfer, chuckles as she ignores his not-so-veiled plea, carefully maneuvering her 50-pound surfboard into the water. Paddling through the wave zone, she somehow makes navigating the kÄ«koâoâa slab of wiliwili around eight feet long with a flat deck and round bottomâappear no more difficult than her KT Surf Crusher, a fiberglass-covered, polyurethane slip of a thing.
The kÄ«koâo that Savanna is riding is quite special, a modern family heirloom and one of the first wooden boards ever carved by her grandfather, the 68-year-old patriarch of a large oceangoing âohana including pro windsurfers Josh and Harley Stone, her father and older brother, respectively. Not that any boards made in the shape of the 10 ancient Hawaiian surfcraft, including the nimble alaia (shortboard) and the more easygoing olo (longboard), could ever be ordinary, given their 800-yearold heritage that originated with the wooden planks Tahitian settlers brought to Hawaiâi in the 13th century. Through documenting board shapes from surfingâs ancient history that were lost to time or replaced by more hydrodynamic shapes and materials in the 20th century, Tom more deeply connects new generations of surfers to the sport by riding waves like the ancestors. âThe wooden boards look and feel so natural in the water,â Savanna says. âItâs like theyâre meant to be there.â
Once a regular outing, these grandfathergranddaughter surf sessions have become more sporadic. Savanna, who lives in WaimÄnalo, has been busy with school and surf competitions, and her âPapa,â as she affectionately refers to Tom, is completing his doctoral dissertation on the ritualism of surfing at the University of Hawaiâi at MÄnoa. But even an occasional dawn patrol for these two is more meaningful than most, since a family legacy is being shaped, one wave, one ride, one wipeout at a time. In the Stone family, Savanna may be the next to continue the tradition of surfing and carving. âIt skipped a generation, but Iâm teaching her like my dad taught me, out of his aloha,â Tom says.
As an aspiring surfer growing up in Kailua, Tom yearned, in the way that unrelenting 8-year-olds do, for an expensive, newfangled surfboard. His father, who made a modest living as a police officer, instead made him
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54 PALM
C CULTURE Surfing
a wooden one, inspired by the boards of their Hawaiian ancestors. âHe carved it every evening for a month,â Tom says. âI watched him do it, learning. But when it was finished, it wasnât the thing I ultimately wantedâa modern surfboard. I told him I hated it. He was angry and probably hurt, so he broke the board and set it on fire.â
Atoning for that painful moment came decades later, after Tom eschewed a wayward lifestyleâincluding a circa-1970s stint smuggling cocaine from Hawaiâi to California in hollow surfboardsâfor a kuleana of cultural preservation through education. âAs natives, thatâs what weâre programmed to do,â says Tom, who taught Hawaiian studies at UH MÄnoa and Kapiâolani Community College. âOtherwise, our traditions will just waste away in museums rather than live on.â
In 1993, Tom was compelled to carve his first board, also a kÄ«koâo made of wiliwili, an endemic lightweight wood. He buried the finished piece in a taro field to absorb the color and mana of the earth. It was a replica of his late fatherâs ill-fated work, and he made it from memory. âMany years later, I could still see it in my mind,â he says. By that time, his father was ailing, having suffered a couple of strokes and several heart attacks. âI took him down to the beach and showed him the board,â says Tom, teary-eyed. âWhat a moment that was.â
In the WaikÄ«kÄ« surf, Savanna is improving her skill on the kÄ«koâo, the third-ever board Tom carved. Heavy and finless (skegs werenât invented until the 1930s), it nevertheless has incredible flotation, and the potential for a magical kind of glide that would make her feel one with the wave.
Alas, the kÄ«koâo is only on loan until she finishes carving her own wooden board, a kÄ«oe made from an âulu tree that was blessed in a traditional ritual. The kÄ«oe has a slimmer profile than the kÄ«koâo, and Savanna has been carving its convex deck and bottom, pointy nose, and narrow tail for the better part of a year using a modern spoke shave from Home Depot and a block plane from 1907. âOnce you get into a rhythm, itâs relaxing,â she says. âBut you canât zone out when thereâs a blade involved.â
Learning to ride the kÄ«oe might be a similarly calming and focused experience, one that would require more time in the water with her teacher. âIâm always trying to find the shortest route to the North Shore to surf,â she says. âBut maybe I should be finding the shortest route to anywhere Papa is instead.â
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56 PALM
C CULTURE Surfing
Tracking Manu o KÅ«
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Text by Timothy A. Schuler
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Images by Melody Bentz and Zac Pezzillo
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The white tern (Gygis alba), a seabird found in the tropics. Image by Melody Bentz.
58 C PALM
CULTURE Manu o KÅ«
The white tern was once nearly absent from Honolulu.
Why is it thriving today?
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Translation by Mikiko Shirakura
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ë§ëì€ì¿ ë ëìê³íê°ì ì믌ì íëë¡ ë¬¶ë ììëŽì¬ë¥Œ íµíŽ ë²ì°œíê³ ììµëë€.
Inoticed the blue bands before I saw the birds. Along KalÄkaua Avenue, between Kapiâolani Boulevard and King Street, where the road is split by a line of giant mahogany trees, about every third trunk was bisected by a bright blue ribbon. From my car, I couldnât make out what was written on them, so later I returned on foot to read the tape on the nearest tree: âNESTING WHITE TERNS ⢠TRIM WITH CAUTION.â
The white tern (Gygis alba), known in Hawaiian as manu o KÅ« (the bird of KÅ«), is a smallish white seabird that is native to Hawaiâi and common throughout the tropics. Itâs sometimes called the white fairy tern, and it is easy to see why: by flapping its wings in rapid succession, the white tern can hover in place, much like a hummingbird or dragonfly.
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PALM
60 C CULTURE Manu o KÅ«
In 2007, manu o KÅ« was named the official bird of Honolulu. Images by Zac Pezzillo.
Unlike many of Hawaiâiâs native bird species, which have succumbed to alien predators and the decimation of their habitats, the manu o KÅ« is thriving. And not in the far reaches of the archipelago, but in some of the busiest, most congested neighborhoods in Honolulu. Walk around MÅâiliâili or WaikÄ«kÄ« and chances are youâll spy a tree marked with the blue ribbon, known affectionately to local conservationists as âtern tape.â Honolulu is home to more than 2,300 manu o KÅ«, including roughly 700 breeding pairs whose nesting sites are plotted online on a citizenrun, active-nest map. In 2007, Gygis alba was named the official bird of Honolulu, thanks to the lobbying of local scientists and civic leaders like Laura Thompson, wife of former mayor Myron âPinkyâ Thompson and mother of voyager Nainoa Thompson.
Manu o KÅ« is an especially useful bird to seafarers, thanks to its habit of fishing at sea during the dayâ plucking juvenile fish and squid from the water without getting wetâand then beelining back to land at sunset. Navigators watch for white terns with beaks full of small fish and use the birdâs flight direction to orient their canoes. In 2016, a group of scientists and amateur ornithologists organized as the Hui Manu o KÅ«, deploying the blue tape to communicate to tree trimmers where the birds are nested and debuting the first Manu o KÅ« Festival at âIolani Palace to raise awareness of the birdâs cultural and biological significance. Keiki made fluffy manu o KÅ« chicks out of cotton balls and tossed plastic squids into the mouth of an oversized seabird.
Scientists have little reliable information on how many manu o KÅ« were supported on Oâahu prior to 1778, but they do know that for much of the past two centuries, white terns were far less common than they are today, in part due to a demand for feathers in the 19th century. In 1918, the white tern became one of hundreds of bird species protected by the Migratory Bird Treaty Act, one of the oldest wildlife protection laws in the United States. In 1961, a pair of white terns was spotted in a kiawe tree near Hanauma Bay. It was the first documented case of manu o KÅ« breeding in Honolulu. Since then, the population has steadily grown, leaving ornithologists wondering, why Honolulu? And why now?
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PALM 62 C CULTURE Manu o KÅ«
Manu o KÅ« favor Honoluluâs broad-canopied environment. Image by Melody Bentz.
It turns out that humans and white terns like a lot of the same things. The broad-canopied trees Honolulu city planners imported from places like Mexico and India provide shade but also large limbs on which to lay eggs. (White terns do not build nests but rather lay eggs directly onto tree branches or even manmade structures like windowsills.) In an urban environment, trees are trimmed to ensure public safety, and that too benefits the manu o KÅ«, says Rich Downs, who helped found Hui Manu o KÅ«. When a limb is removed from a tree, it leaves a wound that scars over, creating grooves and divots that are, it turns out, perfect for egg-laying. âIf you take two trees, same species, and one is trimmed and the other one is not trimmed, they will invariably use the one thatâs been trimmed,â Downs says.
Similarly, contemporary urban life tends to ward off predators. Along KalÄkaua Avenue, the heavily trafficked street acts as a protective moat that cats and mongooses have a hard time crossing. White terns generally seem not to mind the constant noise and artificial illumination of the city, which further insulates them from rats and other predators.
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Because they fish at sea by day, manu o KÅ« are especially useful to seafarers.
Image by Zac Pezzillo.
PALM CULTURE Manu o KÅ«
In a time when the impact of humans on the environment is plainer than ever, it can be startling to realize that not all our actions are detrimental to the world around us; to realize that, every so often, we stumble into creating new habitats in the middle of our cities, along our streets and in our literal back yards. In the case of manu o KÅ«, this inadvertent caretaking has led to intentional interventions: knocking dimples in concrete ledges and affixing pieces of scrap wood to branches to create more secure brooding spots, small gestures that feel huge against the backdrop of ecosystem collapse.
Not long ago, I returned to that bustling stretch of KalÄkaua Avenue. Almost immediately, I caught sight of a manu o KÅ«, high on a branch, its slender, white body bright against the dark green leaves, its beak pointed and tinged with blue, like the tip of a brush wet with paint. I saw another, then another, until the sky seemed full of them. They fluttered from branch to branch in groups of four or five, occasionally wheeling up over the street, like kids playing tag. Their bodies were smaller than their full-grown size, and I wondered if they were adolescents, fledglings trying out their wings.
It can be dangerous to ascribe human traits to animals, masking their true characteristics and leaving us blind to biological relationships that defy our logic. But occasionally, we observe behavior in another species that feels so familiar itâs difficult not to see ourselves in them. As the terns chased each other through the trees, I found myself longing to be one of them, not to experience the feeling of flight, but to again safely be part of a group, to feel that sense of togetherness. I envied their freedom. These birds knew nothing of the coronavirus plaguing the human race, though certainly they noticed our retreat from public spaces. Watching them interact, my terrestrial confinement felt all the more pronounced.
The presence of the manu o KÅ« in Honolulu is often framed as a heartwarming story of cohabitation. But just because humanityâs current approach to building cities works for the white tern does not mean we should ignore its more destructive aspectsâthe hundreds of species that cannot live in our street trees, that are driven away or poisoned by our traffic, that are disoriented by our cityâs lights. The lesson of the manu o KÅ« is not to carry on and assume the world will adapt, but rather to observe up close, within the hubbub of our daily lives, the ways in which our actions ripple outward, affecting innumerable species in innumerable ways. The bird is not a sanction on our way of life. Itâs an invitation to pay attention.
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66 C CULTURE Manu o KÅ«
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Rains Remembered
Text by Matthew Dekneef
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Images by John Hook, Wayne Levin, and Kainoa Reponte
68 C CULTURE Rain Names PALM
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In a symbiotic display of land and language, Hawaiians show a deep affinity for the islandsâ rains with more than 200 words and phrases.
Rain, or âuaâ in Hawaiian, is a near-daily occurrence in the islands. For residents, these passing showers are business as usual, if not a welcome respite. For malahini (visitors), an unexpected downpour may be perceived as an unfair occurrence, a damper on oneâs preplanned itinerary. But taking a closer look at how these rains are honored in Hawaiian culture can help those in the islands see the beauty and familial nature of their aqueous arrivals.
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Hawaiians value rain, and all its intricaciesâthe intensity with which it falls, the angles it forms when swooping around a cliff, its many iridescent colors, the places where different types manifest and to which they are linked. This is evident in the Hawaiian language, which has more than 200 known terms for the rains found across the archipelago. This specific extension of the cultureâs vocabulary was collected most recently in HÄnau Ka Ua: Hawaiian Rain Names, an encyclopedic record of descriptors sourced from mele (songs), oli (chants), moâolelo (legends), âÅlelo noâeau (proverbs), and the broader oral tradition. By recognizing them, author Collette Leimomi Akana and her co-researcher, Kiele Gonzalez, affirm the incredibly nuanced kinship the native culture has with this enduring element.
So the next time youâre enjoying the vista from your hotel lÄnai and notice a cluster of rainclouds looming in a nearby valley, or youâre walking the streets of WaikÄ«kÄ« and find yourself greeted by a gentle drizzle, contemplate the names of the regular Honolulu rains you may encounter in the islandâs kona (leeward) district. Because when you know a rainâs nameâor how to greet a Hawaiian rain as it greets youâyouâre all the more likely to welcome it with open arms.
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Found in the ahupuaâa, or land division, of Nuâuanu, this rain falls in successive showers. Its description was taken from the word âhÄâaoâ itself, which refers to the courtly entourage that proceeds after a chiefâthe showers of this rain follow one another in a noticeable pattern of heavy and light precipitation. Its repetitive pattern, called the uahÄâao or naouahÄâao, has also been interpreted as a design for kapa, a barkcloth fabric.
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When a rain carries with it a rainbow, or is so heavy it turns streams red-brown with muddy runoff, it is referred to as the koko rain. The color red, or ââulaâ in Hawaiian, is a culturally powerful hue. When it expresses itself in nature, it is given amplified attention, which is why this rain is also called âkÅkÅ âulaâ (literally, ânetwork of red color,â as the spreading of a rainbow) or ua koko (a âblood-red rainâ). The koko rain is symbolic of royalty or the divine. Priests saw koko rains as omens, and they interpreted their fleeting rainbows in dual fashions, as the foreshadowing of either a chiefâs birth or death.
WAâAHILA
True to its name, this rain is found at Waâahila, a ridge between MÄnoa and PÄlolo valleys. However, it can extend into nearby districts, reaching as far as Judd and Wyllie streets in Honolulu. The character of this rain is soft and sweeping. Fittingly, thereâs a song set in WaikÄ«kÄ« to ruminate on the next time such a lovely rain falls nearby. In a Hawaiian epic told by HoâoulumÄhiehie, Waâahila is referred to as a âblanketing fall,â and an âoutpouring of love, rising to brightness.â
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KUAHINE
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This rain is often associated with the area of MÄnoa, but even if you donât find yourself there during your stay, keep your ears perked for the term while listening to Hawaiian music at House Without a Keyâthis rain is name-checked in many songs about the region. While the lyrics and melodies may sound beautiful, the ancient legend behind its name is quite sad. Kuahine was a chiefess with a daughter so beautiful she was the source of gossip; men often boasted they had slept with her. When the daughterâs lover heard these rumors, he killed her. Overcome with sorrow, Kuahine transformed into this rain.
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LĪLĪLEHUA
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Literally the âlehua blossom chillâ or âtiny drops on the lehua blossom,â one usually meets this rain in PÄlolo, a quiet community inland of KaimukÄ«. LÄ«lÄ«lehua, a delicate and chilly sheet of rain that clings to the valley, is described in a song as a ârain that soothes the mind, stirring up feelings in [the] heart.â According to myth, this rain takes its name from a beautiful woman who lived in PÄlolo. A moâo, or legendary lizard, loved LÄ«lÄ«lehua, but she had fallen in love with another man. Jealous, the moâo turned her into this rain that never ventures past Waiâalae Avenue.
NÄULU ããŒãŠã«
Across Hawaiâi, even when the weather appears pristine, a rain can surprisingly manifest. Hawaiians named this type of rain, a sudden shower, ânÄulu.â It also shares its name with a wind and storm cloud, which work in concert to produce such rain out of the blue.
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POâONUI
Poeticisms aside, Hawaiians did admittedly consider some rains to be nuisances. In this case, poâonui is a troublesome or top-heavy rain. Literally meaning âbig head,â this generally descriptive term refers to an uncomfortable rain so cold it numbs the head and sends shivers down oneâs spine.
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82 D DESIGN Florals PALM
Fantastic and feral, the wearable artwork of floral artist Noah Harders is part mythology, part haute couture.
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In lush WaikapÅ«, Noah Hardersâ open-air studio resembles a haberdasherâs closet, only all of the embellishments are made of living materials. Snippets of fern and seedpods litter his workbench. The shelves above bear vases and dried vestiges of projects. His current fetishes are masks, and hornsâgreat, curvaceous ramâs horns that he fabricates from finely trimmed dracaena leaves. If Maleficent were looking for a dazzling headpiece to wear to the Kentucky Derby, she might call on him to create it.
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Harders run his own company, NkH Design, offering floral artistry, photography, and graphic design.
âI really love symmetry,â the 25-year-old says, sorting the foliage he collected this morning into tidy piles. On walks, he scours his central Maui neighborhood for natural patterns, deep-hued blossoms, and leaves with strong structure. He has an artistâs obsession with pigment and texture. Where other people see wildflowers and weeds, he sees the raw materials for his craft. âI use whatever I can findâlittle vines or crazy imported stuff,â he says. âYou can make something out of anything.â
Hardersâ aesthetic is the precise opposite of the tropical shabby chic that has dominated Hawaiâiâs wedding industry for decades. âMy style is dark, moody, and mysterious,â he says. âI canât do the whole bright cheerful thingâsorry!â Fantastic, feral, and little bit macabre, his ornate headpieces are something you
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Hardersâ aesthetic can be described as fanciful and little bit macabre.
âMy style is dark, moody, and mysterious,â he says.
might expect to see at a Venetian carnival. He starts by sculpting forms out of chicken wire or tightly curled paper and then meticulously layers them with petals or leaves using floral tape and a glue gun. His âMedusaâ crown defies gravity: interlocking ropes of ruby-colored petals coil snakelike above a matching mask. Another dramatic headpiece features a deconstructed fan lavishly adorned with cymbidium orchids and spray-painted gold.
Harders gravitates toward saturated, dark hues that look as if theyâre aglow in moonlight. His masks often obscure or reinvent the human form, evoking creatures that gather at the edge of dusk to whisper secret invitations. His floral arrangements are moody, too: bouquets with autumnal tones and unexpected accents like kaunaâoa, the tangled beach dodder that grows wild on Mauiâs coastal dunes. His stylized, asymmetrical wedding arches have become signatures of NkH Design.
âClients familiar with my work will ask for more outrageous designs,â he says. âBefore, traditional was the way to go: regular centerpieces and a tight little bouquet that you hold. Nowadays people want to be subtle but different. Iâll read the client, and if I feel like theyâre open to more unusual ideas, Iâll pitch something that Iâve been wanting to do and they will love. I try to push it out of the box.â
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In January he created costume pieces for a fantasy drama funded by Jason Momoa and shot at Kualoa Ranch on Oâahu. Harders holds a little owl eye mask he made for the movie. Itâs an immaculate assemblage of tiny spikes: 3,000 bamboo skewers individually sharpened into feather-like tips. Another headpiece he crafted onsite takes the form of a massive tree and was built out of bark, moss, and shelf fungus. âIt matched the scenery perfectly,â he says.
The job was a delight for the artist who rapturously loves science-fiction and fantasy. âMy favorite movie of all time is Avatarâthe blue people, the flowers in the nighttime ⊠everything glows.â Alexander McQueen is another inspiration. âOne collection that he did with insects and moth patterns ⊠when I saw the symmetry of the wings, I said: âOh my gosh, thatâs what I want to make!ââ
Hardersâ journey into his own fantasyland started innocently enough: with a single lei. While stringing plumeria together for customers at the floral shop, he began envisioning how to replicate traditional Hawaiian lei hulu (feather lei) with flowers. He experimented with layering leathery red ginger petals onto twisted raffia. The result was a stunning, luxuriant scarlet garland with the texture of snakeskin. Working on the piece renewed Hardersâ respect for his Hawaiian ancestors. âIf that lei took me eight hours to make with petals,â he says, âit probably took them months, even years, to collect thousands of feathers and tie them together. There was no glue gun! It really makes me appreciate the artistry that our ancestors had.â
Hardersâ family has lived in WaikapÅ« for more than 100 years. Most of the people who live on the narrow road that reaches up into the valley are his relatives. Theyâre getting accustomed to seeing their young cousin stalking the roadside for supplies or suddenly appearing in a mask with massive horns. âIâm the most self-conscious person ever,â he laughs. âBut in a mask, I turn into this other person. I feel super confident and bold.â
Harders only recently started posting photos of his wilder creations online. âI had to build up the courage to share what I love,â he confesses. When the Covid-19 pandemic first reached Hawaiâi, he posted a series of face masks he fashioned out of dark purple orchids, staghorn ferns, and silver tendrils of Spanish moss. Each organic mask epitomized a breath of fresh airâsomething the world desperately needed.
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94 D DESIGN Thurston Memorial Chapel PALM
Punahouâs Thurston Memorial Chapel floats on a freshwater spring, blending the built and the natural.
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Architecture is a visual art, and the buildings speak for themselves,â the pioneering architect Julia Morgan once said. Which is true, but buildings can be lost in translation, too, becoming as unintelligible as an ancient dialect. Thurston Memorial Chapel, which sits at the center of the Punahou School campus in Honolulu, speaks as fluentlyâand as radicallyâas it did 50 years ago.
On a recent Monday morning, I found myself in the darkened chapel, its constellations of stained glass glowing in the early morning sun. I had seen the building before, but this time, I noticed details I had missed. The chapel itselfâsmall, square, copper-roofed, visible from across a large, grassy expanseâis striking in its simplicity: white plaster walls adorned with a few bands of stained glass and a small copper cross. At the chapelâs base, a lily pond wraps around the corner of the building like a truncated moat, its dark green color echoing the roofâs patina. Passing under a wooden trellis covered in bougainvillea, I emerge in a quiet courtyard ringed by ferns and shaded by a giant monkeypod tree.
Suddenly, the chapel is different. This side of the roof is clad in brown ceramic tile. Heavy koa wood doors leading inside are inlaid with copper repoussé panels that depict the life of Jesus Christ. The materials are warmer and more inviting. The rest of the campus feels far away.
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This arrival sequence is part of the architectural design, carefully choreographed to create a sense of intimacy and quiet. Inside the chapel is the same hushed reverence, despite the myriad fourth and fifth graders that fill the pews, which are arranged in a semicircle around a coral altar. (Founded by missionaries in 1841, Punahou still requires students to attend chapel.) Above the altar hangs a thin, wooden cross, illuminated by a sculptural skylight. Remarkably, there is water inside, too. And fish. The lily pond flows into the chapel beneath a shortened section of the exterior wall.
The service commences like any other: Somber organ music, the lighting of candles. But then, the kids burst into âHawaiâi Aloha.â Led by a jubilant chaplain with an acoustic guitar, they sing âE hauâoli e nÄ âÅpio o Hawaiâi nei / âOli Ä! âOli Ä!â There is a prayer peppered with Hawaiian and several Hawaiian chants, including one that is dedicated to Pele, the fire goddess. It feels somewhat surreal, listening to students sing to a Hawaiian deity in a Christian chapel beneath a cross. After all, not so long ago, missionaries in the islands banned hula and the Hawaiian language.
After the service, the chaplains tell me they want all students, regardless of their religious backgrounds, to feel welcome in Thurston Chapel. As it happens, this was also the intent of its architect: Vladimir Ossipoff. At its dedication in 1967, he said that he hoped students in need of âphysical and spiritual shelter will naturally gravitate here, and that having come here, they will find the comforting solace they seek.â
The Russian architect had designed other buildings on the Punahou campus, and he knew that the fanshaped lily pond near the campusâ center was a place of deep significance. Lined with small stones, the pond is fed by a freshwater spring, which has several legends associated with it. In the most well known, an elderly couple who live beneath an old hala tree find the area plagued by severe famine and drought. In separate dreams, the man and the woman are told to uproot the tree. They do so, and freshwater gushes forth. They call it Kapunahou, or âthe new spring.â
When Ossipoff presented his design for the chapel in 1964, it was at once thoughtful and lunatic: The building would sit not just near the lily pondâit would sit in it. âThat had to be one of the gutsiest architectural moves,â architect and Punahou graduate Nate Smith tells me. To the schoolâs trustees, Ossipoff proposed the structure be nestled into the northeast portion of the pond, like a
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sheer-faced peninsula, the water lapping at its plaster walls like the ocean against chalky white sea cliffs. Inside, the floor would slope down to the altar, bringing students and teachers as close to the spring as possible. The water would even flow directly into the building.
Ossipoff assured the school it could be done. A retaining wall was built across a corner of the pond and the water pumped out. The foundation was carefully sited, so as not to damage the spring. By 1967, the chapel was finished, constructed almost exactly the way Ossipoff had designed it. Fifty years later, Thurston Chapel is still regarded as one of the architectâs best works. But what is perhaps most interesting is that the building, in a way, saved the lily pond.
Despite irrevocably altering its shape, Thurston Chapel actually reinforced the import of the spring, the water of which, by the 20th century, was being diverted for fountains, irrigation systems, and the schoolâs first swimming pool. Among the earliest traditions associated with the pond was a âdunking ceremony,â a sort of freshman hazing ritual involving costumes and a parade. And in a 1917 master plan for Punahou, drawings show the lily pond ringed by an imposing stone colonnade, which would have relegated the pond to being a passive feature of the landscape.
Instead, Ossipoff forged a new, more active relationship between the school and the spring, marrying the built and the natural. The chapel building is completely âinextricable from its site and the legend that resides there,â Dean Sakamoto, a Hawaiâi-born architect, wrote in Hawaiian Modern: The Architecture of Vladimir Ossipoff. âIt is at once Hawaiian, modern, and timeless.â
Timeless, but also boundless, rooted in something bigger than any one religion. That visitors descend into the chapel, and that the altar sits at the lowest point in the building, make it an anomaly among places of worship. To enter any other church or temple, a person almost always ascends a set of steps. This is practical, in part, but it is also symbolic, distinguishing between the mundane and the sacred, and, in certain faiths, bringing congregants physically closer to God. At Kapunahou, Ossipoff brings occupants closer to the ground. God, he seems to suggest, resides not just in the heavens, but also on the earth.
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Belted jacket and linen trouser, both from Brunello Cucinelli. Chain harness and belt from Reise Kochi. Earring, rings, and pen dant necklace chain, all from M33Ms.
ï¢ Madras dress, pearl earrings, and chain bracelet, all from Tory Burch
Travel
ES CA PES
experiences
both
E ãšã¹ã±ãŒã PALM
faraway and familiar
E PALM 115
A Sense of Place
Text by N. Haâalilio Solomon
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ESCAPES Inoa âÄina 116 E PALM
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Where modern travel is concerned, it is important to practice inoa â Äina, or traditional place names.
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âAlahula Puâuloa, he alahele na KaâahupÄhau.â
Everywhere in Puâuloa
is the trail of KaâahupÄhau.
The saying above is an âÅlelo noâeau, a well-known Hawaiian adage. âÅlelo noâeau are usually proverbial and didactic, often uttered as metaphor or allegory. They speak of deities, people, places, events, and stories as references to Hawaiian lore, society, origin, and history. This one, about the trail in Puâuloa, reveals the extent to which shark deity KaâahupÄhau is familiar with her home, such that it is, or was, her alahula (well-known path).
Even though this saying about KaâahupÄhau endures, the place to which it refers has largely been modified and repurposed. Puâuloa, now often called Pearl Harbor, is a wahi pana (historical place) that survives under mounting layers of development, militarization, and industrial use. In light of so much transformation, does KaâahupÄhau still have her alahula, and if so, where is it?
The answer lies, at least to some degree, in the place name. Puâuloa literally means âlong hillâ and delineates the geography and scope of KaâahupÄhauâs abode. Like many other inoa âÄina (traditional place names) in the Hawaiian universe, Puâuloa is topographical and encodes information about
AlahulaPuÊ»uloa,healahele naKaÊ»ahupÄhau.
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Translations by Mikiko Shirakura 翻蚳 = çœåäžçŽå
118 E
ESCAPES Inoa âÄina
N. Haâalilio Solomon is a Hawaiian language instructor at the University of Hawaiâi at MÄnoa, where he is also a PhD candidate in the department of linguistics. He is a translator of âÅlelo Hawaiâi with Awaiaulu and Hoâopulapula. He is the author of âRescuing Maunalua: Shifting Nomenclatures and the Reconfiguration of Space in Hawaii Kai,â a chapter in the forthcoming book Migrant Ecologies: Environmental Histories of the Pacific World (2021).
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the physical features of the area from a feet-on-theground perspective. In different ways, Hawaiian place names capture localized knowledge, mapping the lived experiences of people upon the âÄina and the intimate relationships that tie us to it. The names are constructive intersections between the cognitive, imaginative, and spatial dimensions by which kamaâÄina make sense of our world, arrange the events of our existence, and embed value and meaning in these islands.
Hawaiian place names can also contain information about natural resources. For example, ones that include âwaiâ indicate fresh water in the region. This resource is identified in the name of the Oâahu district Waiâanae, as are the âanae (mullet) that swim in the waters offshore so frequently they also earned a mention.
Some inoa âÄina are spiritually or religiously significant. MÅkapu, a peninsula on the windward side of Oâahu, is a shortening of âmoku kapu,â which literally translates to âtaboo district.â The name demarcates the sacred lands that belonged to Kamehameha I. There are also older accounts in primary sources that tell of MÅkapu as the location where the first humans were created to populate Hawaiâi. Other inoa âÄina commemorate significant events, such as Kohelepelepe, meaning âvaginal fringe,â which calls to mind when shapeshifter Kamapuaâa, true to his kolohe (mischievous) nature, chased Pele across the archipelago, and her sister Kapo sent her own genitalia to the top of Koko Crater to distract Kamapuaâa and give Pele a moment to rest and escape. According to lore, Kapoâs maâi (genitals) left an indentation on the lip of Koko Crater that is still visible from AwÄwamalu, also known as Sandy Beach.
In recounting these examples, we might recognize a problem: All the inoa âÄina mentioned so far have English substitutes that usually supplant the original names or alternate pronunciations of the Hawaiian names that have become so widely used the original names they cover up sound foreign, unrecognizable, and obscure. Today, Puâuloa is called Pearl Harbor. The local pronunciation of Waiâanae usually deletes the âokina and changes its meaning, even if inadvertently. After World War II, MÅkapu changed to âNorth Beach,â and it has since devolved into the âMarine Corps Base,â or its more convenient acronym, MCBH. Kohelepelepe and the crater atop which it lies have been lumped together and subsumed by todayâs common misnomer, âKoko Head.â These examples are a handful among hundreds of shifts that have already occurred, and at this rate, they foreshadow many more to come.
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120 E ESCAPES Inoa âÄina
The erasure of Hawaiian names and the imposition of new and foreign ones is dangerous, even if the traditions by which the new names are created are similar to Hawaiian ones. The name Pearl Harbor is commemorative, but it celebrates American conquest, occupation, and militarization the same way MCBH does. The epithet âSandy Beachâ is topographical but hardly hearkens to a Hawaiian environment the way AwÄwamalu does, referring to the shaded valley inland of the shoreline where âuala (sweet potato) was farmed. The name Kohelepelepe faded after Maunalua was massively developed into modern-day Hawaii Kai on the heels of Statehood in 1959, and the Koko Head âStairs of Doomâ further overwhelmed the name as the summit hike became a popular recreational activity and tourist destination.
We are witnessing the literal reinscription of Hawaiian space, with new and foreign names receiving privilege. When names are replaced, so are their senses of place, their networks of meaning, their value systems. The underlying reasons for such shifts are manifold but not always free of ulterior motives such as the claiming of territory. For some, the English name is easier to pronounce than the Hawaiian. In other instances, a new name could actually be more appropriate to fit the way the place has since been manipulated. But mostly, we should consider this reinscription as a distancing of our Hawaiian place names from us, and by extension, an imposition of new cultural norms, values, and meaning.
But there is hope in the small victories where traditional place names are being reclaimed by local communities. There seems to be a push in the media to standardize the spelling of place names while including proper diacritic markings. Signage identifying the ahupuaâa land divisions of larger moku districts is now visible around all of Oâahu, and the project was so successful that it has begun on neighbor islands. A few years ago, the local Kailua school changed its name from Lanikai Elementary to KaâÅhao Elementary to identify the areaâs original name that existed before development began there in 1924.
We know what makes Hawaiâi beautiful and unique. We know the reasons behind the popular âlucky we live Hawaiâiâ notion. We know the values that make Hawaiâi meaningful to usâour connection to our home and its history, to our shared heritage, and to our sense of place. Deeply embedded in all those things are our place names. It is up to us to know them, speak them, and pass them on.
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122 E ESCAPES Inoa âÄina
Site for Solomeo
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Text by Marc Graser
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Images provided by Brunello Cucinelli
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This piece was created in collaboration with
124 E PROMOTIONAL
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Brunello Cucinelli
Brunello Cucinelli.
Twenty minutes from Perugia, discover the natural beauty of Italyâs Cashmere Valley, which inspires the wares and soul of Brunello Cucinelli. ãŠã³ããªã¢å°æ¹ã®å·éœãã«ãŒãžã£è¿éã«äœçœ®ã ããã€ã¿ãªã¢ã®ãã«ã·ãã¢ã®è°·ããçŸããèªç¶ã«å²ãŸ ãããã¶ã€ããŒãè·äººããããŠæ
人ã«ã€ã³ã¹ãã¬ãŒã· ã§ã³ãäžãç¶ããŠããèå°ã§ãã
Leaving a mark on future generations is just as important to Brunello Cucinelli as it is for the Italian fashion designer to create beautiful clothing and help people dress well.
All you have to do is visit Solomeo to experience that firsthand.
The small village, nestled in the picturesque hillside of central Italyâs Umbria region, has been faithfully restored by Cucinelli to celebrate its medieval heritage. With some modern touches, of course.
The once decaying bell tower of the Church of Saint Bartholomew, founded in the 12th-century, rebuilt in the 1700s, and now fully revitalized with an 18th century organ, stands tall over the Piazza della Pace (Square of Peace).
A 14th-century castle now serves as Cucinelliâs headquarters and a school that teaches courses on apparel making, tailoring, horticulture, landscaping and masonry.
The Forum of the Arts is meant to honor the Forum in ancient Rome as a welcoming gathering place, and houses a Renaissance-inspired 200-seat theater and amphitheater, a well-manicured garden of cypress trees, rose bushes and flowing fountains, and the Aurelian Neohumanistic Academy, which boasts an impressive collection of classic and historic texts in numerous foreign languages. Cultural events honor the philosophies of Plato and Artistotle.
A winery features sweeping views of the vineyard and sprawling countryside below. A monument to human dignity is made of an arcade of five graphic travertine marble arches that represent the world, with the structure built according to ancient techniques to insure its preservation for centuries.
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126 E PROMOTIONAL
Brunello Cucinelli x Palm
The entire effort has been a labor of love for Cucinelli since 1985. Whatâs old is new now. Just donât think of it as an Italian theme park.
What could easily sound like the plaything of a man whoâs built a fortune but doesnât know how to spend it is actually an honorable effort to build a community that seeks to protect a cultural history that could otherwise disappear.
Urbanization and a tough economy have turned many of Italyâs smaller villages into ghost towns. Cucinelli didnât want to see that happen to Solomeo, which is 30 minutes from where he was born in Castel Rigone.
Solomeo is part of a brand that Cucinelli, who at 66 years old, has evolved into what he calls a humanistic enterprise that brings moral dignity back to artisans and craftsmanship. A philosopher himself, Cucinelli embraces sustainable fashion, and more recently, a new kind of capitalism that seeks out âharmony between profit and giving back.â
That includes taking care of the companyâs 2,024 employees, none of who were laid off during the pandemic.
âItaly is made up of many good people, proud men and women who know how to be supportive and close at times of hardship,â Cucinelli says.
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âTo restore the dignity that belongs to work and mankind: this is the dream which the hamlet of Solomeo has always yearned to fulfill,â Cucinelli adds. âHere we live and work in a place that we hope to have improved for future generations, and we have hopefully improved the experience of the people who work with us. We are surrounded by nature and the beat of time is not as fast as it might be in other places in the world. Here the church bells ring every 15 minutes, and this fascinates us every day. If I didn't have to leave for business, I would gladly stay here all the time.â
The restoration of Solomeo is personal in another way. The village is where Cucinnelli met his wife, Federica, and the two started dreaming about their company, founded in 1978.
âIt is my home,â he says. âIt was crucial to me to maintain our roots, heritage and culture where our ancestors lived so future generations can carry on its beauty. I feel most inspired when I am surrounded by my beautiful Umbria and especially when Iâm in my beloved Solomeo; its colors, smells, tastes, sounds, landscape, and people in this region move my soul. I have spent my whole life here, and it is where I feel most grounded. Each season continues to bring me new perspectives, new air, and new life.â
Solomeo is 20 minutes from Umbriaâs capital of Perugia, in the heart of Italyâs Cashmere Valley. Itâs home to 500 companies in neighboring towns like Magione, which overlooks Lake Trasimeno, Giano dellâUmbria, Torgiano, and Terni, further south, that specialize in turning wool into whatâs normally an extremely soft and neutral-toned textile.
Never a traditionalist, Solomeo is home to Brunello Cucinelliâs luxury Italian fashion empire where his brightly dyed cashmere is produced by 1,000 artisans who work in a town thatâs home to just a few hundred residents. Factory tours are available to visitors, but not promoted.
Those looking to visit Solomeo will find a number of charming villas and hotels to book, including Sina Brufani, Relais dellâOlmo and Relais Casamassima, surrounded by vineyards and scenic views.
During a visit to Umbria, Cucinelli recommends exploring the small village of Castelluccio di Norcia, where during May through the beginning of July, the flat basin erupts in a mosaic of blossoming violets, poppies, lentils and clover, creating a tapestry of yellows, reds, violet and white that stretches out toward the base of the surrounding Sibillini Mountains.
The regionâs natural beauty has long inspired Cucinelliâs products. âI am constantly moved by the colors, materials, details, patterns, and textures of Umbria. Each season, the color of the leaves change, the wheat grows, new flowers blossom. There is inspiration every day in many details that we may have not have noticed the year before or perhaps I see them differently.â
Like a proud parent, Cucinelli finds it hard to single out any one project to favor over another in Solomeo.
âI am fond of every single stone, and every single memory it brings with it,â he says. âToday, Solomeo is âthe hamlet of the spirit,â and I like to think that we have restored this place to its original beauty.â
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On 50 acres in Lualualei Valley, Kahumana Organic Farm and Community grows more than just greens.
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At Kahumana Organic Farm, which is hidden within Lualualei Valley at the base of Mount Kaâala, monkeypod and mango trees tower over buildings alongside fields of produce, an aquaponics system, and quiet, lush areas marked by small temples. Rachel LaDrig, Kahumanaâs manager of agritourism, guides me through the farmâs grounds and explains the decades-old ethos behind its name: Those who contribute to Kahumana are kahu, or guardians, nurturing mana, the spirit and soil.
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Kahumana Organic Farm and Community was founded in 1974.
Founded in 1974 as a holistic place to help adults with special needs, the nonprofit Kahumana has expanded to include 50 acres in the leeward valley where it hosts a variety of services for the community, including its organic farm, as well as a café, transitional housing, a retreat, a learning center for adults with intellectual disabilities or autism, and a commercial kitchen. âPart of the mission is to serve a holistic, farm-based, community approach to healing,â LaDrig says. âThe way we care for the most vulnerable members of our society determines our mark as a people and a nation.â
Despite its hidden location, Kahumana opens its land to the community through guided tours, annual seed exchanges and festivals, and the Farm Hub, at which Kahumana buys excess produce from Waiâanae residents. The farm also produces bountiful harvests of kale, collards, fennel, and parsleyâfavored by upscale Oâahu restaurants like Royâs and Monkeypod Kitchen. As we walk by a small plot set aside for salad mix, LaDrig points out the farmâs Organic Keiki Greens, popular with such restaurants. She shares a dragon fruit, picked from an adjacent cactus, and explains the farmâs use of cover crops, which aid in protecting unused soil, and trap crops, which distract pests.
In addition to promoting food sustainability, the farm serves groups from all walks of life: Interns tend to the farm acreage while learning about time management and meal preparation; adults from the nearby Kahumana Learning Center pitch in at the market store; and residents living at one of Kahumanaâs two transitional housing programs work in the farmâs café, serving dishes made with produce sourced just a stoneâs throw away.
These programs, Ohana Ola O Kahumana and Ulu Ke Kukui, support Oâahuâs struggling families, the majority of which are from the Waiâanae Coast, by providing transitional housing and wraparound services. âYou donât just hand someone a house and their problem is solved,â LaDrig says, noting that the residents at the facilities
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136 F PALM
FARE Kahumana Organic Farm
Part of the farmâs holistic mission is to serve the most vulnerable members of local society.
can also take part in workshops for resume writing, money management, and computer training. Some stay on with Kahumana afterward, working at homesteads that are rented out for retreats, in the café, or on the farm.
âThere is so much growth happening all the time here,â LaDrig says, noting that the Organic Keiki Greens are thriving and will soon be ready for harvest. âThis is a model for a healthy community and healthy relationships, between food and people.â
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PALM
138 F FARE Kahumana Organic Farm
T I M ELE SS AN D CL A SS I C ELE G AN C E FOR OVE R 40 Y EA RS I N WA I K I K I A as the only steakhouse
over frag rant
wood OPEN
THROUGH SUNDAY 5 P Mâ 10 P M
0 8 92 2 5 55 5 HYS W AIK I KI. CO M 24 4 0 K UH I O AVEN U E HO N O L U L U, H I COMPLIM EN TA RY VALE T
in Waikiki to broil
Hawaiian kiawe
WEDNESDAY
8
Experience Hokua
When the small details are taken care of, thereâs plenty of time to soak in soaring ocean views and plan your next adventure. Hokua blends the best of city condo living with home-like design and an ocean view from every unit, starting on the fifth floor and rising.
Honoluluâs first luxury residential high-rise, Hokua set a new bar with spacious floor plans and elevated service that offered a new standard of condominium living. Luxury residences are seamlessly integrated with offices, restaurants and dynamic retail in the center of one of Honoluluâs most vibrant neighborhoods.
SALON BLANC
As the trusted Hawaiâi salon for celebrities and other VIPs, we value our clientsâ privacy.
TANGO
Our world casual cuisine is inspired by Scandinavian and American classics, featuring fresh, natural, and house-made ingredients.
PANYA BISTRO
Delicious, healthy, home-cooked style, comfort food in a trendy, yet comfortable atmosphere in a convenient location.
Once people come to Panya, we know weâll see them again.
BANK OF HAWAII
Since 1897, Bank of Hawaii has helped the communities we serve weather many storms.
Explore Kapolei Commons
Come for what you need, and then stay for what you desire. Whether itâs a common lifestyle, common purpose, or common obsession, youâll find it here.
Designed as an epicenter of local culture, food, shopping and innovative events, Kapolei Commons is the ideal destination to connect and discover. A curated mix of retail offers everything from the basics to the unique, dining options that help keep you healthy and allow you to indulge, alongside local entertainment and events that bring neighbors and families together.
GRILL
DB
Blending local favorite with asian cuisine. Our chefs focus on seasonal ingredients and contemporary techniques to create new savory dishes and update island favorites. Enjoy craft cocktails and Asian craft beers handpicked by our mixologist. We hope to create a unique dining experience for our customers through our food and seamless service.
MAD BENE
From Spaghetti and Meatballs to Chicken Parm, the Red Sauce joint serves classic Italian-American comfort food craved by many on the East Coast. Driven by the desire to bring that flavor to Hawaii, we sourced the best ingredients and make all our pasta in-house. Why? because you deserve better. No compromises. Oh, and we also decided to make mad good pizza.