Planning in the moment with young children a practical guide for early years practitioners and paren
Planning in the Moment with Young Children
A Practical Guide for Early Years Practitioners and Parents 1st Edition Ephgrave
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Planning in the moment has transformed both our practice and ourselves here at Gunter. It has taken us from interferers to interactors, privileged to play with the children in our setting. Children are demonstrating far higher levels of interest and involvement, persevering and showing a “can do” attitude whilst creativity, critical thinking and motivation for all is evident in the constant thrum of activity. For the teaching staff, planning, preparation and assessment is now a celebration of children’s learning. Inputting the children’s “Wow!” moments, contributed by all the staff, is a delight and leads naturally to knowing what’s next. The change has given us the freedom to teach in accordance with children’s needs and in a way that is nourishing for them and us.
Chris Dingley, Early Years Lead, Gunter Primary School, Birmingham, UK
We began putting planning in the moment into action in September 2016 after some considerable time getting our environment right. At the end of our first year I can see how it has benefitted both staff and the children in our care. The staff are now much less stressed, more relaxed and are free to spend quality time with the children, ensuring that no teachable moment is missed. They have all commented on how much better they feel they know their key children. The children’s personal, emotional and social development has surpassed that of previous cohorts.They are much more resilient, independent and show an excitement for learning, safe in the knowledge that the adults will follow their lead.
Nikki Smith, Manager, Little Learners Pre-school, Waltham Cross, UK
Having used “in the moment” planning all year we have seen fantastic results. The children have amazed us with their independence, desire to learn and ability to reflect on their own learning. Our GLD is the highest it has ever been but, more importantly, the children are happy, engaged and truly involved and excited by their own learning. Our journey to fully implement “in the moment” planning has been wondrous. I can’t thank Anna enough for giving us the confidence to teach in a way we love. It has been a leap of faith for everyone but has been totally worth it and I would recommend it to anyone.
Suzi Strutt, Early Years Team Leader and Reception Teacher, Thorley Hill Primary School, Bishop’s Stortford, UK
Planning in the Moment with Young Children
Young children live in the here and now. If adults are to make a real difference to their learning they need to seize the moments when children first show curiosity, and support their next steps immediately. This book embraces the concept of planning “in the moment” and emphasises the critical role of the adult in promoting child-led learning, giving early years practitioners the confidence and insight to work and plan in the moment, and enabling the children in their care to live, learn, play and develop in the here and now.
Planning in the Moment with Young Children maintains a strong link to practice, providing numerous examples of how practitioners can integrate spontaneous planning and rich adult–child interactions into their everyday practice and early years curricula. From timetabling to setting clear rules, creating enabling environments, keeping records and making use of a variety of materials, the book demonstrates the multitude of ways in which practitioners can encourage child autonomy and respond to the unique needs of each child. Examples from practice are rooted in theory, fully contextualised, and exemplified by original documentation sourced from the author’s own experiences and from a wide variety of settings.
Key features include:
● over 180 full-colour photographs to illustrate practice;
● photocopiable pages including planning sheets, documentation and activity sheets;
● advice on working with parents, individual children and groups;
● tailored guidance on working with children at different stages of development from birth to age 6 years;
● relevance to a range of settings, including childminders, pre-schools, nurseries and schools.
When children are allowed to select where, with what, and how to play, they are truly invested in their play, they become deeply involved and make dramatic progress.This book is an outstanding testament to a responsive and child-led way of working in early years environments. Practitioners will be guided, inspired and supported to work spontaneously and reactively – planning as they go and celebrating the results!
Anna Ephgrave has been teaching for over 27 years. Her most recent post was Assistant Head Teacher responsible for the early years and year one at Carterhatch Infant School, which was graded as Outstanding in its most recent inspection. Anna is now an independent consultant, trainer and author, supporting practitioners both in the United Kingdom and abroad. She has written three very successful books for David Fulton, Routledge: The Reception Year in Action, Year One in Action, and The Nursery Year in Action, which was the winner of Nursery World’s Professional Books Award, 2017.
Planning in the Moment with Young Children
A Practical Guide for Early Years Practitioners and Parents
Anna Ephgrave
First published 2018 by Routledge
2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN and by Routledge
The right of Anna Ephgrave to be identified as author of this work has been asserted by her in accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.
All rights reserved. The purchase of this copyright material confers the right on the purchasing institution to photocopy pages which bear the photocopy icon and copyright line at the bottom of the page. No other parts of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers.
Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe.
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
A catalog record for this book has been requested
ISBN: 978-1-138-08036-2 (hbk)
ISBN: 978-1-138-08039-3 (pbk)
ISBN: 978-1-315-11350-0 (ebk)
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Sand 62
Water 63
Mud and mixtures 64
Music and dancing 64
Creative/mark-making/writing 65
Reading area 66
Role play 66
Extras 66
Tiny outdoor areas 67 Indoor areas
Playdough 69
Cooking 70
Creative/mark making 71
Literacy 73
Story scribing and acting 75
Reading 79
Snack area 80
Small world/construction/carpet area 81
Book area 83
Dry sand 84
Water 84
Role play 85 ICT 86
Listen, watch and wait 95
While adults wait, they are PLANNING 96
The child leads the interaction 96
The adult responds as appropriate 97 Try pondering 98
Acknowledgements
This book should have taken a couple of months to complete, but it has actually taken nearly a year. This is partly due to the mesmerising distraction that is my new granddaughter and partly due to the complexity of the topic. However, it is also due to the fact that I wanted to include examples and information from a variety of settings, a mixture of practitioners and a range of children from birth to age six. I approached various people whom I have worked with in recent years to ask for contributions, and I have been overwhelmed by the response and generosity from everyone. I received hundreds of photographs, testimonials, samples of planning sheets and messages of support. I then had the delightful task of reading everything and looking at the lovely images in order to weave as much as possible into the text. The result, I believe, has been worth the extra time and I hope readers will agree. Therefore, I would like to thank the children, parents and staff in the following settings, for their contributions, without which this book would not have been as vibrant and varied.
● Brindishe Green Primary School, Lewisham, London
● British School, Muscat, Oman
● Caldecote Primary School, Leicester
● Caversham Nursery School, Reading
● Chichester Nursery School, Chichester
● Childminder (anonymous), Blackpool
● Clare Peck, parent, teacher and member of Keeping Early Years Unique
● Gunter Primary School, Birmingham
● Henry Bradley Infant School, Chesterfield, Derbyshire
● Little Explorers, Thornton, Lancashire
● Little Learners Pre-school, Cheshunt, Hertfordshire
● Thorley Hill Primary School, Bishop’s Stortford, Hertfordshire
Finally, I would like to give a special mention to Amy Claypole and her sister Olivia Langham from Daffodils Outdoor Nursery, Market Harborough, Leicestershire. Olivia is a practitioner and a photographer, putting her in the unique position of being able to take candid shots of children in the setting. Like the nursery itself, the images are beautiful and I cannot thank everyone enough for their generosity in sharing these photographs.
Introduction
Planning in the moment is nothing new. It is exactly what a responsive parent does with their child every day. It is exactly what skilful practitioners have always done. Every time an adult looks at, and listens to, a child, they are assessing and “planning” how to respond. These assessments and plans are based on the adult’s observations of the child in that moment and also draw on any previous knowledge of the child. The response is “planned” in the moment and is uniquely suited to that unique child in that unique moment. The adult will be considering (either consciously or instinctively) whether they can add anything in that moment to benefit the child. If so, they will respond and interact accordingly, supporting the child to develop.
In the past ten years, I have been developing some simple paperwork on which a small proportion of these adult–child interactions can be recorded (after the event). Again, the format of this paperwork is nothing new – it is basically blank sheets of paper. I will state here, and this influences the whole book, that the paperwork has minimal impact on the children and is therefore not as important as the interactions themselves. In many settings, there is an obsession with evidencing and recording everything, and this must be addressed. Practitioners need to get back to the important, powerful role of interacting with children, rather than trying to document everything that happens. By doing so, they will regain a love of their job and the children will make outstanding progress – a “win–win” situation. This book aims to explain what this might look like in a variety of settings and with children at varying stages of development. My hope is that it will support practitioners to feel confident in focusing on the important aspect of their role – observing and interacting with children as they play.
So – put your clipboards down, put your electronic tablets away, forget any pre-conceived activity plans or learning objectives. Open the doors and play with the children – plan as you go, plan on the hoof, plan spontaneously, plan responsively – call it what you like. The important thing is that you are led by the child in the moment and you respond accordingly
From birth to . . .
As I write this introduction, my granddaughter is just four weeks old. My daughter has been planning in the moment for the past four weeks. She is constantly alert to her baby’s needs – watching, listening and responding – twenty-four hours a day. She can distinguish between the various cries and knows when the baby is hungry, tired, alert, uncomfortable or in pain. She then decides whether to feed her, sing to her, walk her round the garden, change her nappy or rub her back.There is no “plan” for each day, other than to look after her baby. She does this by observing her closely and responding accordingly.
It is already obvious that this baby is curious and interested in the world around her. She is “hard-wired” to learn. Her brain is growing rapidly at this time – with thousands of new synapses forming each second. While her needs are being met, she is content. Any anxiety, pain, discomfort or need is met by her responsive parents. She is learning that people are there to care for her and she is beginning to respond to them too. She is staring intently at faces, turning her head to the sound of voices, experimenting with her own voice and settling when sung to – totally captivating. Soon she will smile. This innate desire to develop will continue throughout her life but she is unique and will thrive if the adults around her recognise this uniqueness and respond to her accordingly.
It is the same for every baby and child in the world. They are each born with this desire to learn and to be part of a social world and it is our responsibility to cater to each child as a unique individual, rather than as a name on a register or, worse, a piece of data.Whenever adults try to force a child to do something which they do not want to do, they cause the child anxiety which changes the chemical make-up of the brain and prevents new synapse formation. This is true for all – not just babies. Therefore, it is absolutely critical that we start with the child, be led by the child and find ways to respond which suit the child.
In this way, the child will remain content and new learning is possible. Thus, progress will be maximised by constantly protecting the well-being of a child (ensuring they feel secure, valued and understood) and then responding to them in ways that respect and value their unique identity.
Babies, young children and older children thrive when treated in this responsive, respectful way. A child who loves to be outdoors, on the move and chatting to himself will find it very stressful to sit still indoors, in silence. This stress will inhibit new learning. Far better to allow this child to be outdoors, learning in an active way. A child who likes quiet and calm, producing intricate models with the tiniest of construction pieces, will thrive indoors with space and time to bring his/her ideas to fruition. These children are different – one is not “better” than the other – and, as practitioners, we need to find a way to cater to each child, rather than trying to force children to fit into a particular model or style of learning. The ideas presented in this book will, hopefully, support practitioners in achieving this.
But what about test results? I am only too aware of the relentless pressure placed on teachers in schools to achieve “results” and indeed for all practitioners to deliver good, or better, progress. Lead practitioners, whether owners, managers, childminders or head teachers, are all accountable for the progress of the children in their settings. However, those who understand child development and understand how children learn, will know that if we can find ways to treat each child in a unique way, then the results will be the best possible. It is a leap of faith to trust that the innate desire to learn, recognised in babies, is ever present. This desire exists throughout a child’s life and therefore the ideas presented in this book can be applied to children of all ages. In my 27-year career, I have seen the
success that can be achieved through child-led learning with children of all ages. When a child has autonomy and independence, supported by an enabling environment and skilful adults, then they make superb progress. Once the progress is demonstrated, then practitioners, including head teachers, are able to defend and develop this practice further.This book might help some of those leaders take that initial leap, see the results and then continue to tap into the powerful potential of child-led learning.
This is a journey and practitioners, who are contemplating change in their practice, need a clear plan for their journey of change.This book is organised in a way that supports this. It starts by explaining how children learn best, which must be the guiding factor in any setting. Once practitioners are clear about how children learn, they can then assess everything that they do in terms of whether it supports this or not. The book then goes on to look at all such practicalities – routines, expectations, environments, interactions, record-keeping and assessment – constantly reflecting on whether they support the best outcomes for children.Thus the journey of change can be completed by tackling each area of practice as described in the book: understand why child-initiated play is so powerful, then tackle how it can be organised, be clear that skilful adults are constantly planning in the moment and finally celebrate the results.
ACTION PLAN
Have a team discussion to find out how practitioners are feeling about their setting. What is going well? What is causing stress? What is most beneficial to the children?
Write a paragraph that describes how your setting is run now and a summary of the feelings of the staff.
Our EYFS and Y1 team were incredibly inspired after receiving INSET focused on planning and teaching in the moment. Y1 had previously been quite formal, particularly towards the end of the year. But within a few days the four class unit had been transformed. Although each class still has their own classroom and class teacher, each room, outdoor space and corridor becomes an exciting “workshop” during “free flow” when all of the children are able to choose when, where and how their learning takes place. Also, as the whole unit is opened up to every child, each can choose who they work with which has supported the development of social skills tremendously. Despite not having topics, and planning being based on the children’s interests, we have found that, through spending time ensuring that the environment and adult support matches the learning needs, we have covered the National Curriculum and more! Children are much more engaged in their learning and now take their own learning journey very seriously and can articulate their next steps very well. Story Scribing has been amazingly successful, particularly with our boys. The Focus child meetings with parents have been so successful that we have introduced that system throughout the whole school, doing away with formal parents’ evenings. The response from staff, parents but, most of all, the children, has been extremely positive. In our recent Inspection the provision and results in Year 1 came out as one of our major strengths. We are now planning to introduce many of the elements into Year 2 next year and KS2 teachers are champing at the bit!
Hillary Hinchliff, Head of Primary, British School Muscat, Oman, 2017
The matter is very different when our methods and conditions are better adapted to the child’s normal modes of growth and spontaneous interests. If the child has ample opportunity for free play and bodily exercise, if his love of making and doing with his hands is met, if his intelligent interest in the world around him is encouraged by sympathy and understanding, if he is left free to make-believe or to think as his impulses take him, then his advances in skill and understanding are but welcome signs of mental health and vigour.
Susan Isaacs, The Nursery Years, Routledge & Kegan Paul, London, 1929
Staple Hill Stars Preschool, Bristol
Brain development
The vision
If you visited a “utopian” setting, what would you notice about the children?
This is one of the first questions that I ask any group of practitioners – be they parents, childminders, pre-school staff, nursery nurses, teachers or headteachers. It applies whether the children are four months old or 18 years old. The answer is always the same. The first thing indicating that a setting is working is that the children are ENGAGED. Throughout this book, whenever the word “engaged” is used, it refers to Level 5 involvement as described by Ferre Laevers – see Appendix A. Many other words are then listed – the children are happy, independent, confident, unique, taking risks, taking the lead, communicating, challenged, creative, secure, curious, persistent, sociable, enthusiastic, empathic and so on.
However, it soon becomes clear that engagement is the key indicator. For example, a child who is not happy cannot become deeply engaged. A child who is not challenged by what is on offer will not be engaged. A child who is being controlled by adults will not be as deeply engaged. A child who feels insecure (for whatever reason) will not be able to become deeply engaged.
We know intuitively that our vision is to get all children engaged. Our intuition is justified and now we need to articulate the underlying rationale for this belief: When children are deeply engaged, their brain is developing and new synapses are forming – i.e. they are making progress
We also know that a child who is bored, passive, quiet and not engaged is not making progress – their brain is not growing when in that state. We do not need to carry out an
experiment to prove this. Brain scans clearly demonstrate this and the long-term effects of low engagement have been demonstrated in the case of the Romanian orphans born during the 1970s and 1980s. Although these children were able to learn to read and write at a later stage in their lives, their ability to empathise and form relationships has proved almost impossible. There are two main points to conclude from this; that lack of engagement hinders brain development, and also the need to focus on social skills and empathy at a young age because this is very difficult to develop later.
We must also recognise and believe that every child wants to be engaged. If we have children who are not engaged, we cannot blame them.We must look to see what we can do to engage them.The work of Professor Ferre Laevers is complimented by the work of Bowlby and supports the approach and beliefs that I observe in practitioners all over the world.This can be presented in various ways but, in simple terms, babies need to form trusting relationships at a young age. This then allows them to be in a “secure” state, in which their natural desire to learn and develop can be optimised.Anything which disrupts this state will alter the chemical make-up in the brain and hinder development. Thus, the developmentally inappropriate practice of formalised, adult-led learning that is being imposed on so many young children is actually preventing the very development that these practices are supposed to promote.
Levels of involvement
Ferre Laevers developed descriptors for various levels of involvement and these can be used as a simple, objective way of measuring the engagement of an individual, group or class.The descriptors are given in Appendix A. I have often shown these to external inspectors and their response is that the Level 5 (with concentration, creativity, energy and persistence) is equivalent to an “outstanding” grade.
There are many ways in which these levels of involvement can be used, as outlined below.
Individual children
As mentioned above, we start with the assumption that all children want to be engaged, i.e they want to be at Level 5. In a superb setting, if a child is not becoming engaged, then the descriptors can be used to monitor a child at regular intervals throughout a day or a week in order to uncover patterns or preferences. Always bear in mind with such a child that there might be external factors causing emotional well-being to be affected, and remember that a child with poor emotional well-being is not able to become deeply engaged. However, such monitoring can be a powerful way to see which sessions or events do engage a child and which clearly do not. Starting with the assumption that they do want to be engaged, it is then possible to see which types of session are “working” for the particular child.
Not engaged – Level 1 involvement
Engaged – Level 5 involvement
Groups or class
The same descriptors can be used to consider group or whole class sessions. Again, assuming that we are aiming to deliver practice that will see most children at Level 4 or 5, we can quickly start to see which sessions or events are appropriate and productive, in terms of engagement/involvement (and, therefore, progress). For example, if we are delivering an input on the carpet, then we should have the level descriptors in mind. When the children start to fidget and become distracted, then this tells us that the session has become unproductive. It does not tell us that the children are “naughty” or that “they can’t concentrate” or that “they have ADHD”. It tells us that what we are offering is not engaging and therefore is not supporting synapse formation and learning. Once we accept this, it is clear that group sessions for babies are rarely appropriate. Equally, carpet sessions that are longer than a few minutes are not appropriate for three year olds. Assembly for Reception children is not going to deliver engagement and nor are lengthy phonic sessions for a child at any age. I would also urge practitioners to use these levels to measure the effectiveness of focussed tasks, snack time, circle time and so on. In all these cases, the level of involvement is often very low, the adults and children can become quite stressed and the learning is minimal. It is, then, a very useful tool for practitioners to use as a way of assessing practice and then arguing for change.
Environment
The levels can also be used to see which areas of an environment are “working” – which areas are delivering good levels of involvement and which are not. This is an ongoing process, particularly with some age groups, as their interests and stage of development can change dramatically over the course of a few months. However, some areas are always engaging and others rarely so. Also, the levels of involvement will help practitioners see which areas are rarely, if ever, used. Such areas obviously need to be changed as they are essentially “wasted space”. Chapter 3 on environment gives detailed information and ideas to support the development of an environment that is engaging.
A section of an outdoor area where the levels of involvement were low.
Resources
Involvement levels improved dramatically once the area was developed.
I would recommend using the levels as a way of assessing the effectiveness of resources. Whether or not there is a large budget, it is best to have mainly resources which are openended and can therefore be used in many different ways. For example, for small world play, rather than having a pirate ship, a doll’s house, a castle, a rocket, a caravan, a farm and a car park for the children to use, there is far more potential for engagement with wooden blocks, Lego, pieces of fabric, paper and pens etc. In this way, the children can create their own rocket, car park, castle and so on. Again, further details can be found in Chapter 3.
Child-initiated play – autonomy and genuine choice
So how do we achieve the best levels of involvement? I have worked with children since the age of 13. I grew up in the Woodcraft Folk and, at 13 years old, was organising a group for six to ten year olds. This voluntary work continued for over 30 years. I also had a baby while studying at university and a second baby a couple of years later. When my children
were very young, I worked as a child-minder and also ran toddler groups in the local area. I became a teacher 27 years ago and was also a foster carer for ten years whilst teaching. I have experience of children of many ages and in many different situations. I have also read and studied, not only for qualifications, but also out of fascination and, sometimes, frustration when trying to find the best ways in which to support young children. Everything in my life experiences – personal, voluntary, professional and academic – has led me to conclude that, once they feel secure, children become most deeply engaged when they have autonomy, when they are able to choose what to do.
What is more, nothing in my life has ever demonstrated that this is not true. This applies to a newborn baby, a toddler, a vulnerable foster child, a child on the autistic spectrum, a child who speaks no English, a Year One child, a child with a “gifted” label or a child with additional needs.
To summarise, the best levels of involvement – leading to the best progress – are achieved when children’s well-being is high and we then let them choose what to do. This has become known as “free-flow play”, “child-initiated play”, “choosing time”, “explore and learn time”, “continuous provision”, etc. But, to be clear – within agreed boundaries – I am talking about children playing where they want, with whatever they choose, for as long as they want, in whatever way they want.
This sounds simple but, if every child in a setting is to be able to play as they choose, there are several things that need to be in place in order to support this:
● A prioritisation of well-being above all else, recognising that high well-being is critical in order for a child to feel secure, which in turn will allow them to become involved.
● Consistent boundaries, expectations and routines (within which each child can then relax and have the freedom that they need in order to learn effectively).
● An enabling environment (which is organised to meet the ever-changing needs and interests of each unique child). This book will be of interest to people working from home and also in various settings. Therefore, the words “room”, “class”, “setting” etc. should be read as meaning the “space” where the children are.
● Skilful, empathic adults interacting appropriately to form warm relationships and to support each child in a way that respects them, preserves their autonomy and offers genuine interest and fascination. Throughout this book, I use the words “adult”, “practitioner”, “teacher”, but these all refer to any adult who is responsible for a child.
● Manageable systems of assessment and record-keeping (to satisfy any statutory requirements, without impeding the progress of the children, and while maintaining the sanity of the staff).
These things are dealt with in the following chapters and each is critical if the play is to be successful and productive. What is not necessary are any written forward plans. If the children have genuine choice, if it is genuinely child-initiated play, then we do not know what the children will choose to do and we cannot, therefore, pre-plan the activities or the learning outcomes
ACTION PLAN
Hold a staff meeting and agree a vision
Ask staff how they want the children to be. (A powerful vision is to aim to have children who are ENGAGED and HAPPY.)
Clarify that “ENGAGED” means Level 5 involvement.
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actually crippled or suffering from a loathsome disease called crawcraw, which bears some resemblance to the mange in dogs or horses. In appearance and personal strength they are much inferior to most other Africans; probably from their great indolence and want of exercise. The wives are treated with great harshness by their husbands, in case they offend them.
They have no ingenuity, but a considerable power of imitation. Some of our British manufactured articles in wood or gold they can imitate very fairly, but when closely examined, their work will always be found to be defective. They seem never to improve by their own ingenuity, but always remain stationary in any art or trade which they have learnt. They seem to have no idea of a straight line, and cannot build a wall straight, or make a hedge in a direct line; nor in the whole neighbourhood of Cape Coast is there a footpath in a straight line for the distance of twenty yards, although the ground is quite level. They certainly possess many strange ideas.
There are in the neighbourhood of Cape Coast some strange animals, among which is the Patakoo, a very large species of wolf. These are so ravenous as frequently to come down into the town and carry away pigs, sheep, and goats. They pay nightly visits to the beach, and seize on dead bodies which have been buried in the sand. As their slaves have no relations in the town or neighbourhood, as soon as they die their corpses are tied up in a coarse grass mat and thrown into a hole in the sand, without any ceremony; but on the same or following night, they are snatched up by the Patakoos, for whom they make a glorious feast. This beast has great strength, its size considered. When Governor Hill’s horse died, the officers of the First West India Regiment, stationed at Cape Coast, determined to leave part of its carcase on the beach, in order to attract the Patakoos, and it could not have lain there more than an hour before it was removed by a single Patakoo, though it was two men’s work to carry it.
There is plenty of excellent granite and sandstone at Cape Coast; yet nearly all the houses are built of clay, as the people are too lazy to fetch the stone. Elmina, which is only eight miles distant, is a much superior settlement, and has likewise plenty of excellent
sandstone, of which a great number of its houses are built. This place belongs to the Dutch, and carries on much trade, both with the interior and along the coast. It has a fine lake, connected with the sea by a narrow channel, which might with very little trouble be converted into a convenient harbour, which would be important, as the swell along the Gold Coast is always very heavy, and great difficulty is experienced in shipping and unshipping goods. I visited several of the most influential merchants at Elmina, and found them, as well as the governor, very hospitable. The abundance of new plants in this country would give plenty of employment to a botanist. A small shrub of the laurel tribe, bearing a white delicate flower, shaped like the blossom of the pea, grows here very plentifully, as also beautiful jasmines and honeysuckles, and several sorts of sensitive plants. Some very fine grasses, also in this neighbourhood struck me, but I did not observe many small annuals.
Agriculture has made little progress here, probably owing to the want of horses, which cannot live more than a few weeks, and from the indolence of the natives. Stock sufficient for the consumption of the garrisons along the coast might be raised with a little care and exertion. The number of troops along the whole of the west coast is at present very small. Were their numbers doubled, there would not be too many, and they might be employed alternately in cultivating the farms and mounting guard in the forts. Yams, manioc, Indian corn, rice, and all sorts of vegetables, for the garrison and ships of war cruising on the coast, might in this way be easily obtained, and much expense avoided. This would also be useful as a pattern to the natives. The troops are paying at present one shilling per pound for meat, which could easily be raised at one-fourth, and the cattle might be employed on the farm instead of horses. An establishment of this sort would be very beneficial here, and I have no doubt would answer the purpose well. Unfortunately at present there seems to be no European at Cape Coast who either knows or interests himself in anything relating to agriculture. With the exception of Mr. Hutton, not a single English merchant at Cape Coast has even a garden, although the progress of vegetation is incredibly rapid. Some seeds of the vegetable marrow and water melon, given to me by Dr. Lindley of the Horticultural Society in London, which were sown on my arrival
at Cape Coast, had grown to the extent of twenty-four feet in two months, and the fruit of the water melon was as large as a man’s head.
The heat of the month of November is excessive. On the 8th, the quicksilver in the thermometer, in my bedroom, which is considered to be cool, stood at 88°; and in the sun it rose to 115°; yet, thank God! I was so well accustomed to it, that I felt very little inconvenience, though generally out the whole day, and exposed to the sun. I was then daily expecting a messenger from Ashantee, for one of the soldiers from the fort had been despatched by the governor, to ask whether the King would allow me to pass beyond his kingdom towards the Kong Mountains. During the interval I was engaged in laying out the ground for Mr. Hutton’s model farm.
The breed of cattle here is very handsome though small, but it might be greatly improved, and this would repay the expense very well, as the price of meat is so extremely high. Gold dust, unfortunately, seems to be the only thing thought of on the coast.
Schools of industry and agriculture are wanted on this coast more than any thing else. As land can be got for nothing anywhere on the coast,—land capable of growing any thing,—a few hundred pounds expended on a farm of three hundred acres would be very profitably laid out. There are plenty of men who can read and write, begging for employment; and ten times their number, from the bush, such as might be deemed capable of learning, might be apprenticed to different kinds of trades for four or five years.
It is worthy of remark, that on the whole coast, from Cape Palmas to Accra, there is not a single shoemaker, although no trade seems to be so much wanted. Even the natives in the interior complain much of the want of shoes. Nor is there a tailor, a cabinet-maker, a wheelwright, or a blacksmith who can weld a piece of iron with any neatness in the whole settlement. Such articles, if manufactured on the coast, would draw trade from the interior, and excite the natives to industry; and thus British manufactures would be soon in great demand in the interior also. This would greatly reduce the Slave trade, as the minds of the people would be directed to agriculture
and manufactures, particularly as it is well known that even in the Ashantee country the population is not on the increase. The Ashantees have indeed, for the last two months, been at war with the tribes to the north of them, bordering on the Kong Mountains, and have lost a great number of men, as their enemies, who have no fire-arms, no doubt did also.
The merchants of Cape Coast, Annamaboe, and Accra, experience great loss and inconvenience, in consequence of the trade being stopped between Ashantee and the coast. This was occasioned by the murder of an Ashantee woman by a Fantee, on her return from a trading journey to the coast. She had occasion to stop a little behind her companions, and was then robbed and murdered by this Fantee who overtook her. Her companions missing her, went back, and found her with her head nearly severed from her body. This took place in the Fantee country, between Cape Coast and Ashantee. The murderer, however, was seized and brought part of the way back to Cape Coast by a soldier from thence, on his way with the letter to the King of Ashantee, from Governor Hill, which I mentioned above.
Mr. Chapman, who had resided as missionary at Coomassie, the capital of Ashantee, for the last twelve months, arrived at Annamaboe on the 26th of November, 1844, with the intelligence that all the King required was that the murderer should be punished according to the English law. The King at that time expressed a great desire to see me in Ashantee, and promised me complete protection in his country; but said nothing about allowing me to go further.
FOOTNOTES:
[2] Fetish is corrupted from the Portuguese feitiço, witchcraft, conjuring
[3] His Majesty had served several years on board a British man-of-war, previously to attaining his sovereignty.
CHAPTER III.
Annamaboe—State of the Fort—Indolence of the Natives, and Difficulty in procuring Labourers—Domestic Slavery— Missionary Schools—Want of Education in the Useful Arts— Hints on this Subject—Vegetables and Fruits—Town of Annamaboe—Soil—Natives—Reception of me by the King, and Conversation with him—Mr. Brewe—Mr. Parker— Excessive Heat—Little Cromantine, its impregnable Situation —The Fort—Cromantine—The Market-place—Extraordinary Tradition—Wonderful Dwarf—An Adventure—Accra— Wesleyan Missionaries—Natives—their Habitations—Wives and Slaves—Situation of the Town, and Soil.
On Monday, 23d of November, 1844, Mr. T. Hutton and I started from Cape Coast for Annamaboe, a town of considerable trade on the coast, about thirteen miles from Cape Coast Castle, from which its magnetic bearing is about due east. It has also a very good fort, which, however, is gradually going to decay. Its ramparts are well supplied with artillery, and capable of making a good defence against an attack from the sea, if properly garrisoned, and it is quite impregnable by the natives from the land, or north side. It was at this place that the Ashantees made so determined an attack, and an attempt to blow up the gate of the fort. They, however, failed in all their attempts during the late war of 1817. There are at present only two or three private soldiers and a sergeant of militia in charge of the garrison. Some of the apartments in the garrison are in a pretty good state of repair, and might be very profitably used in more ways than one, if from one hundred and fifty to two hundred militia-men were stationed here, and employed by turns in managing a farm in the immediate neighbourhood: the soil is capable of producing every thing necessary for the support of the garrison. In three or four years, on such a plan, this garrison would pay its own expenses.
The native kings or chiefs, and caboceers, are never to be depended upon; and even the humblest of the natives, when they imagine they have any power, although naturally great cowards, will bully and be very insolent. The natives are so lazy that at times the merchants cannot, without great difficulty, get men to load or unload their ships. This is a very serious grievance, and often exposes our merchants to great difficulties as well as loss. Were our merchants allowed to hold as many slaves as are requisite for the performance of domestic duties, and the carrying on of their business, it would act as a check to the exportation of slaves.
I have minutely observed and inquired into the state and condition of domestic slavery amongst the native caboceers, and I solemnly declare that their condition is much superior to that of our English peasantry. One English labourer, on an average, does more work than any twelve Africans; and the provision of the latter being so cheap (one penny per day is sufficient for their support), they have always plenty to eat. I am writing from actual observation, having had for three months a number of hired men under my charge.
Another evil arising from the same cause, is, that if a man is urged to do anything like a tenth part of a day’s work, he will go away, and steal sufficient to maintain him for some time; consequently, the towns on the coast abound with thieves and vagabonds, who will not work. Had domestic slavery (or rather I may call it service) been tolerated, our merchants would have been encouraged to enter upon other speculations, such as agriculture, and even trades; since many of our merchants, who constantly employ five or six native and European carpenters, would put their slaves to learn a trade, whereas they have now no motive for doing so. Besides, the holders of domestic slaves would use all their influence in abolishing the removal of slaves into another country. In Elmina the Dutch settlers still hold their domestic slaves, and they are in a thriving condition. In its immediate neighbourhood I was surprised to find several fine gardens and plantations, belonging to different merchants established there. Moreover, the surrounding country is well cleared of wood for a considerable distance, which renders that settlement much more healthy than Cape Coast, or any of our English stations.
Although no man detests the Slave Trade more than myself, I cannot help feeling convinced that much evil to the natives as well as to the merchants has arisen from the abolition of domestic slavery in our African settlements.
Another evil I also believe to be this. In all our Missionary Schools, reading and writing, with a slight knowledge of arithmetic, is all that is taught. By this, undoubtedly, much good is done; but much more would be done, if these schools were also schools of industry. When a boy has left school in this country, you never see him reading a book, or even looking at a newspaper. All that these young men aspire to, is to get something in the fashion of European clothing, and to seek employment as clerks. I have already seen great numbers, who have been dismissed from school, and can write a little. They then consider themselves gentlemen, and their ideas are above anything under a clerk’s place. Now, it is well known, that among the few merchants established on the coast, employment as clerks cannot be afforded to as many as are desirous of such a situation.
I will, therefore, endeavour to point out a remedy for this evil, which would, I think, not only benefit this class of individuals, but the country at large, as well as our manufacturers in England:—I mean, the establishment of schools of industry on a scale similar to that which I have recommended for the garrison at Annamaboe. Let a suitable piece of land be selected, which any one may have for nothing; build upon it dwelling-houses and offices, as well as workshops, which could soon be done in this country, if the people could be induced to work. Men willing to become apprentices to different trades should be selected, and bound to bricklayers, carpenters, blacksmiths, shoemakers, weavers, wheelwrights, and cabinet-makers, for three or five years, as might be deemed most proper. These men might assist in building their dwellings and shops, before they began to learn their trades, which some of them would do by employment in this very work. Sufficient ground should also be enclosed for raising such food as is necessary for the support of these labourers.
Every article of subsistence is abundantly produced in this country, and many luxuries, such as sugar and coffee. Vegetables, and great quantities of fruit, grow spontaneously. Civilization might thus be begun, but it could hardly be permanently advanced without a recourse to arms. The Kings of Apollonia and Ashantee possess too much arbitrary power to be withdrawn from their cruel and barbarous habits by any other means than the sword; and it is said, that very many other chiefs and kings are in the daily habit of making human sacrifices.
Although Annamaboe has been already often described, a few remarks upon it will not perhaps be unacceptable. Behind the fort, or on its north side, is a piece of ground about two hundred yards square, round which are built some very good houses, with their stores, belonging to English and native merchants. These houses and the mission-house are the only buildings worthy of notice, except the King’s house. This is new, and copied from those of the merchants; it is not, however, yet finished, and very probably never will be, in consequence of the extreme indolence of the people. The town may, perhaps, contain about three thousand inhabitants, and consists (with the exception of the houses already mentioned) of dwellings irregularly huddled together, generally built round a square of about seven yards each way, with only one outer entrance, each house opening into the square, and forming its sides. Some of the principal houses of this description have benches running along the outside wall inside of the square. These benches are made of fine clay, in the form of sofas, and are handsomely coloured with clay of a different colour. It is here that they hold their palavers, all being seated around; the head man, or caboceer, is generally placed on a seat raised above the rest.
Although the soil in the neighbourhood of Annamaboe is excellent, yet it is very little cultivated; the natives chiefly depend upon the people in the woods for their corn and yams, vegetables and fruit, which are got in exchange for fish, a very plentiful article on the coast at certain seasons of the year.
The only thing in the neighbourhood of Annamaboe worth mentioning as a sign of either improvement or enterprise, is a good
road for about ten or twelve miles into the interior, made for the purpose of conveying timber to the coast. This great undertaking was executed entirely at the expense of one person, a very intelligent and highly respectable native merchant, named Barns; but since the abolition of domestic slavery, he, unfortunately, cannot obtain labourers to carry on the timber-trade; though he has procured from England timber-carriages and every thing requisite— all is sacrificed. In fact, a complete check is now put upon every effort of enterprise by the abolition of domestic slavery. These slaves were much better provided for than our labourers in England, for they had always plenty of food and clothing, and were never exposed in bad weather, nor was one quarter of the labour ever required from them that would be expected in England.
The natives of Annamaboe are in character much the same as those at Cape Coast, and many of them are thieves and vagabonds. During my short stay there my servant’s country cloth was stolen off him in the night. When inquiry was made for it every one denied all knowledge of the theft; however, on a closer search, the cloth was found rolled up tightly under the head of one of the servants of the house where I lodged. I had him well flogged; but nothing will cure these people of thieving, except a tread-mill for they fear nothing so much as labour.
During my stay at Annamaboe, the King sent me a pressing invitation to pay him a visit, and in order to appear before his Majesty in a suitable manner, I was advised by the merchants to send to Cape Coast for my regimentals. On the following day I paid him a visit in my uniform, with which he seemed much delighted. Having previously learnt that I belonged to Her Majesty’s Life Guards, he asked me a great many questions respecting the Queen of England —how she was when I left England? and if Prince Albert was quite well? how many children she had? how long she had been married? and what were their titles? He laughed heartily when I informed him that Her Majesty had five children in so short a time, and asked me how I accounted for the English ladies being so prolific? Upon which I told him that the reason was, that in England one man had only one
wife: he could not be persuaded, however, that one wife was sufficient for one man.
I experienced great kindness during my stay at Annamaboe from the merchants of that place, both English and native; and was indebted, during the whole of my visit there, to the hospitality of Mr. Brewe, a very respectable and enterprising merchant.
Among the native merchants I may justly point out Mr. Parker, who, though educated in Africa, would appear with advantage even in Europe. His memory is astonishing; he has read a great deal, and has a very good library of the best English writers. With regard to reading, indeed, he is an exception to the rest of his countrymen, owing, I believe, principally to their erroneous system of education.
November 30th.—I took my departure from Annamaboe, to visit the krooms[4] along the coast. Three quarters of a mile from Annamaboe, we reached a small village of about four hundred inhabitants, named Agah, and bearing E. 2° N. from Annamaboe. My companion, Mr. Brewe, being well acquainted with the King, or chief, I was introduced to him, and he expressed his gratification at seeing me in his kroom, and desired us to enter his house, and partake of some palm wine, or peto.[5] But having a long and difficult journey to perform in the scorching sun, we excused ourselves, and proceeded on our journey to the next kroom, which is three miles and a quarter from Annamaboe. Our road was along the beach, on dry sand, ankle deep, and in the sun, with a heat of 118° Fahrenheit, which rendered it very fatiguing for people on foot. However, in an hour and a quarter we reached the kroom called Little Cromantine, formerly a Dutch settlement of considerable trade, bearing E. 2° N. from Annamaboe. It has a strong fort, although now abandoned and going to decay; consequently its trade has also gone to Annamaboe. The fort is in one of the best positions on the whole of the African coast. It is built on a perpendicular rock one hundred feet high, washed at its base by the sea. It is so steep as to be accessible by land only by means of a zigzag path, and yet its garrison surrendered without resistance to the Ashantees, when they might have defended themselves against any number of assailants. Its courtyard is entirely overgrown
with small shrubs; but there still remain on the batteries twenty-four good twenty-four pounders.
This fort might be easily put into complete repair The village contains not more than five or six hundred inhabitants, who live chiefly by catching fish, which they carry to Annamaboe. It is a wretched kroom. The houses are very indifferently built, without any regularity; and in passing from house to house, you must climb over one rugged rock after another, as is sometimes the case on the seabeach in England.
After surveying the fort and village, we commenced our march towards Cromantine, from which the last-named kroom derives its name. It is two miles and a half distant, bearing by compass E. 1° N. The road being very bad, we did not reach it until about ten o’clock. The entrance to the town is very steep, as it is elevated one hundred feet above Little Cromantine. Its situation is very grand and romantic. On suddenly emerging from a very narrow path, about the width of a sheep-track, and six feet deep, the town presents itself in full view on the right front, and immediately on the right is a steep ravine, thickly planted with the beautiful plantain and banana trees, the cool aspect of which is refreshing to one half melted under a tropical sun; for, unluckily, my means would not allow me to be carried in a hammock, as my friend was. Thank God, however, my health was good, and I bore the journey well. The town is much more regularly built, with a more level foundation than Little Cromantine. We halted in the market-place, in the centre of the town, where we were refreshed with some ale furnished by my friend Mr. S. Brewe. During this time the natives assembled around us in great numbers, gazing upon us with astonishment. Mr Brewe’s musical box pleased them very much.
In the centre of the market-place is a very dirty, stagnant pool of water, the exhalation from which was very unpleasant; and though a drain about twenty yards long and three feet deep would have completely removed it, the inhabitants are too lazy to make it. The greater part of the Fantee people are the most ungenerous, ungrateful, and unneighbourly people in the world; so much so, that when their neighbour’s house is on fire, they will not assist in
extinguishing it, unless hired to do so. Although they are very superstitious respecting their fetish or religious rites, they have no prescribed form or system of performing them.
In Cromantine there exists a tradition, or rather a tale, to deceive strangers, that they have still in their possession a male child, who has existed ever since the beginning of the world. This child, they declare, neither eats, drinks, nor partakes of any nourishment, yet still continues in a state of childhood. When I laughed at this absurd tale, it somewhat offended my friend Mr. Brewe, who declared that he himself and his father had actually seen this infant. I therefore expressed a wish to see this extraordinary child; and during the half hour which was required to prepare him for the visit, we were admitted into their fetish-house, or temple, in the corner of which was seated in a chair a little clay figure of the god whom they invoke or threaten, according to circumstances. In the same house, leaning against the wall, was the hollow trunk of a cocoa-nut tree, chalked over with white spots. This, they told us, was sent down to them from heaven, and was preserved here as a proof that their fetish lives for them. When I reproved their folly in believing such tales, they seemed quite astonished and incensed, especially the old fetishwoman, a priestess, who at times extorts great sums for the preparation of certain charms, supposed to be very potent. When a man is sick, his relations send for the fetish-man, who, if the party is found to be very anxious respecting the sick man, generally makes a heavy charge, in addition to a gallon of rum to drink success to the fetish; and he very frequently orders a few bottles of rum to be buried up to the neck in the ground in different places, which the god is supposed to take as a fee for his favours to the sick man. If he should die, the fetish-man assures his relatives that the favour of the god was not to be gained by so small a quantity of rum. Such is the abject superstition prevalent on this coast.
At length I became impatient to see this wonderful dwarf, or child of other days, but was still desired to wait a little longer. However, as we were anxious to proceed on our journey, we set off. Fortunately, our road onwards passed close to the residence of this wonderful child, so that we halted, in the hope of having a peep at him. Being
again delayed, I lost all patience, and resolved to enter his dwelling. My African friends and the multitude assembled from all parts of the town, warned me of the destruction that would certainly overtake me, if I ventured to go in without leave. But I showed them my doubled barrelled gun as my fetish, and forced my way through the crowd. On entering through a very narrow door or gateway, into a circle of about twenty yards diameter, fenced round by a close paling, and covered outside with long grass, about nine feet high, (so that nothing within could be seen,) the first and only thing I saw was an old woman, whom, but for her size and sex, I should have taken for the mysterious being, resident there from the time of the Creation. She certainly was the most disgusting and loathsome being I ever beheld. She had no covering on her person (like all the other natives of this place), with the exception of a small piece of dirty cloth round her loins. Her skin was deeply wrinkled and extremely dirty, with scarcely any flesh on her bones. Her breasts hung half way down her body, and she had all the appearance of extreme old age. This ancient woman was the supposed nurse of the everlasting child. On my entering the yard, this old fetish-woman (for such was her high style and title) stepped before me, making the most hideous gestures ever witnessed, and endeavouring to drive me out, that I might be prevented from entering into the god’s house; but in spite of all her movements I pushed her aside, and forced my way into the house. Its outward appearance was that of a cone, or extinguisher, standing in the centre of the enclosure. It was formed by long poles placed triangularly, and thatched with long grass. Inside of it I found a clay bench, in the form of a chair. Its tenant was absent, and the old woman pretended that she had, by her magic, caused him to disappear.
On my return, I found my friends anxiously waiting for me, dreading lest something awful might have happened to me; and the townspeople seemed quite in a fury. They did not, however, dare to attack me, for they are great cowards when the lest determination or spirit of resistance is shown. They are so superstitious, that not one individual would venture over the threshold of the holy house, without the permission of the old nurse. When I explained to the multitude the nature of the trick practised by the old woman, they
were greatly incensed. There can be no doubt that some neighbour’s child is borrowed whenever strangers wish to see this wonderful infant; and when dressed up and disguised by various colours of clay, it is exhibited as the divine and wonderful child. The natives are so credulous, that a fetish-man or woman has no difficulty in making them believe any thing, however extravagant.
After the delay occasioned by my visit, we went on to our next stage, a small town near the beach, called in the native language, Occro, which signifies salt-pond. It contains about two thousand inhabitants, and derives its name from the lake on which different parts of it stand. Its appearance is very picturesque, as it is shaded by many large cotton and adoomah, as well as cocoa-nut trees, which grow in abundance on this part of the coast.
Here the Wesleyan missionaries have an establishment, which we visited. We remained there for some hours during the heat of the day, which was excessive, making the loose sand very troublesome. On our arrival, my friends (though they had been carried through the whole distance) were glad to lie down to rest; but being myself anxious to see and learn as much as possible, I went over the greater part of the town to observe the manners and habits of the people, which differ considerably from those of Cape Coast or Annamaboe, although not at a great distance from them. The natives of this place are more generous in their manner, and in many of their features differ entirely from those of the Fantees, bearing much resemblance in features and form of the head to the Arabs and Fellátahs. Their limbs also are more elastic, and their eyes quicker than those of the Fantees, who are the heaviest and most morose of all the Africans whom I have seen.
The houses here are much cleaner and better constructed than at Cape Coast or Annamaboe. They are generally built round a square yard, with one main entrance into it. This is mostly about four yards by twelve, the houses forming its sides, with entrances to the different apartments from the court or yard outside of these rooms. Along the walls are clay benches, in the form of sofas, which are shaded from the sun by projecting roofs. In the morning, the master of the house sits here with his attendants, and drinks palm-wine; but
the women are his principal drudges or slaves, as is the case in almost all other parts of Africa. The master of the house has generally from six to ten, or even twenty wives, according to his means, and a proportionate number of slaves. The slaves are not usually treated worse than his wives. Marriages are here made by purchase, as in other parts of this coast. When a man sees a girl to whom he takes a fancy, he goes to her father, and bargains for her as he would for a sheep or goat, without any consideration of the disparity of age, nor are the girl’s inclinations ever for a moment thought of. Even the most influential of the native merchants, who have had a liberal education, do the same thing, and maintain a vast number of wives at an enormous expense.
On inquiry, I found that many Arabs and Moors, as well as Fellátahs, had found their way to this place, either as slaves or fugitives, from their own country, and thus the difference of feature before noticed may be accounted for. Fishing is the chief occupation of the inhabitants, who dry the fish which they catch in great abundance, and carry them to Annamaboe and into the interior. Palm-oil is also made here, as well as farther inland.
The lake from which the town derives its name is very salt, although unconnected with the sea. A high bank of sand, about a hundred yards broad, separates this lake from the sea; consequently the salt water must filter through the sand into the lake, which, at high water, is much lower than the sea. From the nature of the soil and bed of the lake, there is very little doubt but that it was once an inlet of the sea, now separated from it by sand and shells washed up by the tremendous swell all along this coast;—hence the lagoons, or salt lakes, found in many places, and which stretch out to a great extent. The water is very bad, and can only be obtained by digging, or rather scratching holes in the sand, and it is always brackish. This town bears E. 1° N. from Annamaboe, and is distant about nine miles from Cromantine. We experienced great kindness at this place from the Missionary teacher, a native of Cape Coast, placed here by Mr. Freeman.
FOOTNOTES:
[4] Villages
[5] A beer made from Indian corn.
CHAPTER IV.
Strange Articles of Food—Native Cookery—The River Amissa—Reception by the Caboceer of Amissa—Soil, Fruits, &c.—An Adventure—Visit from a Hyena—The River Anaqua —Arsafah—Soil, Fruits, &c.—Beautiful Birds—Moors and Arabs here—Cattle—Return to Cape Coast—Hospitable Reception there—Invitation from the King of Ashantee—My Reply—Visit the Neighbourhood of Cape Coast—Coffee Plantations—Indolence of the Natives—The Town of Napoleon—Eyau Awkwano—Fruits Growing Spontaneously —Bad Roads—Singular Mode of Carrying Timber—Cotton Trees—The Dwarf Cotton Shrub—Scene of a Sanguinary Battle—Djewkwa—Native Houses—An Intoxicated Caboceer —The Caboceer’s Presents—Account of him—Return to Cape Coast—Sail for Whydah—Winnebah Method of Curing Fish—Natives—Stock—Neighbouring Country—The Devil’s Hill—Soil—Yanwin (samphire)—The River Jensu—Beautiful Birds—The King-fisher.
At 4 . . we resumed our journey to the River Amissa, distant three miles. Our road passed over loose sand, and was very fatiguing to the traveller. After walking about two miles, we came to a small lake, where we found two fishermen busily engaged in cutting up a very large shark, which they said they were dividing into so many cowries’ worth, or, as we should say, two pennyworths. Here “all is fish that comes to net.” They eat anything; alligators, alligators’ eggs, dogs, monkeys, cats,—in fact, there are few things they will not devour as a meal. Their method of cooking is certainly very good. Their soups and stews are wholesome; and their palm-soup is delicious, either made with fish or fowl; it is seasoned with palm-oil and pepper. Kankie, a sort of bread made from the Indian corn, coarsely ground, is the most common food, as wheaten bread is in Europe. Of vegetables they have great varieties: yams, cassada, or
manioc root, sweet potatoes, and plantains, as well as many other herbs used for soups. We saw at this place the remains of a very large whale, which had been driven on shore some time before.
After passing along the beach, still on the loose sand, about one mile, we reached the river Amissa, which might more correctly be called a lake. The whole of the party except myself were carried across by the same men who had carried them the previous part of the journey; but I, having no carriers, was ferried across by one of the chief’s or caboceer’s canoes, which happened to be on the lake. After crossing it, we immediately proceeded to the kroom, or village, named, from the lake or river, Amissa. Here the old caboceer received us very kindly, and soon cleared out a house for our accommodation. We then walked round the village, which is pleasantly situated on a good soil, differing from any I had seen on the coast farther westward. It is black, loamy, and very rich and fertile, bearing many large trees of different kinds, such as cocoas, bananas, and plantains, in great abundance. Pine-apples come up spontaneously.
After walking round the kroom, we went to the river to bathe, and found that it had risen considerably since we crossed it, as the sea, when near high water, flows into it. It has here, however, nearly banked itself off. The water of this lake is very salt, although it is constantly fed by a freshwater stream from the N.W. This river forms a lagoon at a short distance from the sea, eastwards. On returning to our lodgings, which had nothing but bare walls, we made a hearty supper, sitting or lying on the ground or floor, and were afterwards joined by the good old caboceer over a glass of grog, which he very readily accepted, accompanied by some of his captains Thus we amused ourselves till twelve o’clock, when one of our party having got a little too much, became rather quarrelsome, and by some accident upset the candle, so that we were left in total darkness, for as the hut had no windows, we were not benefited by the moonlight. The old caboceer seemed much alarmed, and clasped me tightly round the waist with both his arms for protection. A light was, however, soon procured by help of a lucifer-match, and lo! all the old chief’s captains had deserted him, supposing the light had been
purposely extinguished for some hostile design. The old man, however, was soon convinced of the contrary, and I escorted him home to his house, which differed from those already described only by having the fire-place inside instead of outside of it. When I returned all the party lay down to rest till the morning. I had borrowed a grass mat from the caboceer, and the others lay in their baskets. Musquitoes, however, were so numerous that we could get no rest; at about half-past two A.M. my friend Mr. Brewe and his wife were entirely driven out, and made an attempt to sleep in the street, but found their tormentors still more numerous there; whereupon, they resolved upon beating a retreat back to Annamaboe. However, as I had already walked twelve miles in a scorching sun and over a miserable road, I felt no inclination to accompany them, particularly as we had not yet seen any thing of the neighbouring country. Besides which, we had not finished our intended journey.
My remonstrances, however, were in vain. Mr. Brewe had determined to return, and awoke my other friend, who was comfortably reposing under the protecting influence of Bacchus. He had felt nothing of the musquitoes, and very much wished to remain till morning; but Mr. Brewe was not to be dissuaded, and accordingly ordered his servants and baggage to get into marching order. I determined, notwithstanding, to remain alone. Mr. Brewe showed great anxiety for my safety, and very kindly left the provision-boxes for my use during the next two days, which was very desirable, for our money is of no value in this country, cowries being the only currency known.
After the departure of my friends, I lay down outside of the hut, and was just falling asleep, when I felt something touch my cap. I was not alarmed, however, supposing it to be either a dog or a pig, smelling at my head; but on moving my head, and making a noise to drive away my unwelcome visitor, the animal made more noise in his retreat than it seemed possible for a dog to make, and moved much faster than a pig. This circumstance induced me to get up, when, to my astonishment, the same animal having been obliged to repass me, as it had been frustrated in its first attempt to escape by getting bewildered amongst the houses, it turned out to be a large hyena, or,
as the natives call it, a patakoo. These beasts are so ravenous and so numerous, that they frequently carry off cattle, pigs, poultry, and even dig or scratch up dead bodies.
In the morning, when the old caboceer visited me, I informed him of what had happened, and he congratulated me upon my escape, as he assured me that those beasts frequently carry off a bullock or a hog.
After breakfast the caboceer called again upon me, inviting me to go to his house to be introduced to his family, and to drink with him. He pressed me very much to remain with him a few days, but I begged him to excuse me, promising to come another time and remain there a short time. The village bears nearly the same direction by the compass as the other two places already mentioned.
December 1st.—At 10 . . I set off on my journey to the river Anaqua, only two miles distant. It is now the dry season and is very small; it runs into the lagoon, which I was obliged to cross in my way to the small village or kroom named Arsafah. This kroom is situated between the lagoon and the sea, but close to the latter. Its natives are maintained chiefly by fishing. But at a little distance in the interior much corn is produced, and it is often brought to this place for shipment, sometimes at the rate of sixpence per bushel.
The soil is much more fertile here than at Cape Coast. Cocoa-nuts grow in great abundance, although near the sea no trees of any considerable size are to be found. The ground is mostly covered with shrubs and small trees, about ten or twelve feet high. At this place I saw some very handsome birds, of beautiful plumage, such as the splendid crown-bird. They are very wild; few of them, indeed, are stationary in any part of this coast. They migrate every three months, and some continue here only a few days, not remaining to breed, perhaps as being too near the sea. The fish taken in this lagoon have a much better flavour than those caught in the sea.
The inhabitants of this place are much like those of Accra; much better made than the natives of Cape Coast, the form of their head being much finer. I found, upon inquiry among some of the old people, that they had come from a great distance in the interior, and
