Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review July 2025

Page 1


Volume 52 | Number 7

www.pharmacos.co.za

8 News

TIA supports local brand Shanti Natural Care

Great Africa Group to distribute Henkel’s retail brands

New eyelash density enhancer by Symrise

10

On the Street

New products on our radar

12 Ingredients/ Natural & Sustainable

Croda redefines sustainability in peptide technology

Sabinsa supports beauty designed with integrity

Explore the anti-ageing power of raspberry leaves

Next-gen skincare ingredients powered by biodiversity

24 Sun Care

34 Packaging/ Labelling

A unique emollient for sunscreen applications

Transmare’s natural cactus extract shields African skin

28 Personal Care/ Bath, Body & Shower

Düllberg Konzentra introduces Vitality trend concept

Bath and shower gets a glow up

Beyond the face: SA’s growing body care revolution

Specialised label solutions from VR Print

NSI Label leads packaging into the digital age

Novacode achieves 100% automated label inspection with EyeC

40 Pharma Focus/ CAMs & Health

Supplements

Fish oils: the gold standard in wellness

Research-driven supplements for women

Brenntag brings highquality natural CBD to EMEA

Innovation in harmony with nature

There’s something remarkable happening in the cosmetics industry – where cutting-edge science meets ancient wisdom to meets consumers’ needs. Our July edition celebrates this beautiful convergence, showcasing how ingredient suppliers are drawing inspiration from nature’s offerings to create the solutions of tomorrow.

It’s clear to see, the industry is committed to formulation excellence that honours both efficacy and sustainability. In the feature on natural and sustainable ingredients, you can read about Provital’s groundbreaking Triplobiome™ Technology inspired by inter-kingdom symbiosis as well as Solabia’s Pro-Longevia ® derived from organic raspberry leaves.

In our pharma focus, we revisit the enduring value of fish oils as the gold standard in wellness. Lysi's premiumgrade omega-3 offerings remind us that sometimes, nature’s original formulations remain unmatched in their efficacy. This dovetails well with IMCD’s innovative

approach to women’s health supplements, addressing everything from hormonal cycles to menopausal challenges with targeted solutions.

This month our packaging section explores developments in labelling. Learn more about VR Print’s innovative AttachA-Leaflet ® multi-page label solutions that elegantly solve complex information challenges while maintaining aesthetic appeal. Discover how NSI LABEL continues to pioneer the digital transition with technologies that deliver precision and sustainability while capturing consumer attention.

Enjoy the read!

The team

EDITORIAL

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519 abby.vorster@media24.com

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CONTRIBUTOR: Rubab Abdoolla

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Natural and Organic Ingredients

• Organic Castor oil. Batana oil, Argan oil, Cocoa Butter and Shea butter

Technology Innovation Agency supports local brand Shanti Natural Care

South Africa’s Shanti Natural Care is transforming skincare with its CBD-infused product line. Inspired by African traditions and supported by the Technology Innovation Agency (TIA), the brand stands out for weaving Indigenous Knowledge Systems (IKS) with advanced biotechnology. Founded by Kylie Adam during 2020 in her home in Cape Town, this youth- and female-owned enterprise is making waves locally and internationally.

“When I first started making Shanti Natural Care products, the CBD space in South Africa was still largely uncharted,” said Kylie. “But I knew the healing power of plants. I wanted to create something real and inclusive, something that reflects the people and traditions that raised me.”

Combining historical resonance and modern science, Shanti Natural Care has emerged with the vision of providing high-quality, natural products that leverage the medicinal benefits of cannabidiol (CBD). The skincare line includes pain-relief creams, body lotions, shampoos, and more – all designed with the healing properties of CBD while being eco-conscious.

Named after Kylie’s daughter, the brand has grown into a thriving business. It has a flagship wellness store in Cape Town’s popular Kloof Street. The brand also holds partnerships with major online retailers like Takealot and CBD Care.

Shanti Natural Care owes much of its success to the Technology Innovation Agency (TIA). With TIA’s funding and support:

The brand conducted extensive clinical testing to ensure product efficacy.

• Formulations were optimised to meet high-quality standards.

• Sustainable packaging options were developed to support eco-friendly practices.

• This dual focus on science and tradition aligns with South Africa’s broader bio-economy strategy. By incorporating innovation into their practices, Shanti Natural Care inspires sustainable entrepreneurship and community upliftment.

Vuyisile Hobololo, head: IKS at TIA comments: “South Africa’s wide-ranging biodiversity presents enormous opportunities for use in development and commercialisation of IKS innovations. These innovations set the stage for job creation and the development of community-based SMMEs.”

The Shanti project perfectly exemplifies how science and heritage can be combined to create world-class products with local impact.

“Shanti Natural Care is a testament to the immense potential of African tradition”

“Through strategic funding, we de-risked an earlystage innovation to bring this CBD-based skincare line to market. This holds benefits not only for the business but also for the broader community represented by the brand,” Hobololo concludes.

More than just a skincare company, Shanti Natural Care is a testament to the immense potential of African tradition. The company now manufactures for other TIA-supported brands and partners with JSE-listed Labat Africa Group to supply Cannafrica franchises. This growth highlights how local innovation can drive global progress. Through entrepreneurship and community empowerment, Shanti Natural Care is setting a benchmark for inclusive innovation.

Kylie Adam, founder of Shanti Natural Care

Great Africa Group secures exclusive Henkel distribution deal

Great Africa Group has announced a significant strategic partnership through its subsidiary, Adaptogens, securing an exclusive distributorship agreement with global consumer goods giant Henkel for its retail brands across Southern Africa.

This landmark deal positions Great Africa Group as the sole distributor for Henkel’s renowned personal care and home care portfolio in the region. It also marks a pivotal moment for both companies in the rapidly evolving Southern African retail market.

Spanning major retail channels throughout the region, Great Africa Group will leverage its extensive retail expertise and wellestablished distribution infrastructure to bolster the partnership. The company’s deep understanding of local market dynamics and strong relationships with key retailers will help drive significant growth opportunities for Henkel’s trusted brand portfolio.

For Southern African consumers, the collaboration between Great Africa Group and Henkel promises enhanced product availability and improved market access to the manufacturer’s internationally recognised brands. The partnership holds immense value, given increasing demand for quality personal care and home care products across the region’s diverse retail landscape.

Industry analysts view this exclusive agreement as a strategic move that will strengthen both companies’ market positions whilst delivering enhanced value propositions to retailers and end consumers throughout Southern Africa.

New eyelash density enhancer by Symrise

SymLash® XTreme is the latest innovation in eyelash density enhancement from Symrise. This groundbreaking technology brings a scientifically proven solution to boost eyelash density with visible results in just two weeks.

Developed with a patented lipopeptide-troxerutin formula, SymLash® XTreme not only enhances the appearance of lashes but also provides additional follicle protection. Its easy-to-use liquid format makes it highly adaptable for a range of cosmetic products, such as eyelash serums, eyeliners, and mascaras.

Inspired by the growing demand for multi-functional solutions in eye beauty care, Symrise has introduced this cutting-edge product to its extensive portfolio of cosmetic innovations. SymLash® XTreme harnesses the power of lipopeptides combined with troxerutin, a well-researched microcirculation agent, to deliver comprehensive benefits.

Consumers can expect remarkable results: a visible enhancement in eyelash density within two weeks and up to 35% improvement after six weeks of application. The product is specifically designed to protect eyelash follicles, stimulate keratinocyte activity and improve the overall attractiveness of lashes.

With its water-soluble, ready-to-use liquid format, SymLash® XTreme simplifies the formulation process. Its versatility ensures compatibility across a wide variety of eye beauty applications, including eyeliners, eyelash serums, eyebrow mascaras and liners.

“With SymLash® XTreme, we aim to help brands address the rising consumer demand for natural eyelash fullness efficiently and affordably,” says Marcia Paula, global category director hair care at Symrise.

Source: LinkedIn

Boost eyelash density with SymLash® XTreme, a new water-soluble eye beauty care ingredient by Symrise

New products on our radar On the Street

1. Panado® wins two Product of the Year awards

Panado® has just scooped not one but two Product of the Year 2025 awards – and Mzansi approves.

In a survey conducted by Kantar, involving 2 000 South African consumers, Panado® Infant Drops has been voted Product of the Year 2025 in the Child – Health category. Carefully crafted with a calibrated dropper for spot-on dosing, Panado® Infant Drops is suitable for infants three months and older. It is alcohol-free, sugar-free, and designed to help alleviate teething pain, earaches, fever, and mild-tomoderate pain associated with colds in infants and young children. Panado® Effervescent Tablets fizzed to the front of the pack in the Adult – Pain Relief category. Ideal for those who struggle with swallowing tablets, the effervescent format dissolves quickly in water and gets to work fast, making it a popular choice for adults needing quick and convenient pain relief.

2. Vitamin-enriched even tone range for men

The new Playboy Acticare+™ Even Tone range is designed for men who want smooth, even-toned skin with no fuss and all the hydration.

With 48-hour moisture, fast-absorbing formulas and a masculine scent inspired by Playboy Hypnotize, this range is made to fit effortlessly into any routine. Consumers can choose between a lightweight lotion for daily use or a rich cream for intense hydration. Key benefits of Playboy Acticare+™:

• Deep hydration with long-lasting, 48-hour moisture

• Powered by Hydr8PLUS™ complex and vitamins A, B3, C, and E

• Proven to help even out skin tone within 28 days

• Lightweight lotion or rich cream

• Signature scent inspired by Playboy Hypnotize.

Available in 400mℓ body lotions and body creams, this range delivers visible results and keeps skin feeling smooth, fresh and confident.

3. New shower gel collection targets male consumers

Refresh shower routines with the new Shower to Shower Men 3-in-1 Shower Gel range. This extreme 500mℓ shower gel is designed to cleanse, hydrate and energise from head to toe, with three-in-one convenience for body, face and hair. With four unique formulas to choose from, everyone can find their perfect match. Each variant is formulated with a standout ingredient:

• Extreme Clean, with activated charcoal for a deep cleanse

• Extreme Fresh, with fresh mint for a refreshing cleanse

• Extreme Sport, with Kalahari rock salts for a revitalising cleanse

• Extreme Boost, with caffeine boost for an invigorating cleanse

The range also delivers a rich foaming formula that provides a refreshing shower experience.

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Redefining sustainability in peptide technology

Consumers are looking for efficient, sustainable and highly targeted solutions to address their skincare concerns. Peptides are incredibly effective at achieving skincare results but do they meet the perceived desire for natural and sustainable ingredients?

Naturally present in the human body, peptides, like proteins, are composed of amino acids (AA). Peptides used for cosmetic applications are short chains (a maximum of 20 AA). They have very specific amino acid sequences. By mimicking natural mechanisms of action, they modulate a protein production pathway.

The challenge for scientists is to find these very specific amino acid chains that enable the production of skin proteins such as collagens, elastin, hyaluronic acid, and other matrix components, like a lock and key.

The wide variety of peptides available in the cosmetics industry provide many consumer benefits for skincare and hair applications. These include anti-wrinkle, skin firming and rejuvenating hair follicles. They are found as key active ingredients in the composition of many highly targeted skincare and hair

care products and in particular antiageing products.

Natural and synthetic peptides are equally effective in delivering a specific benefit. Having entered the daily skincare routines of beauty consumers for decades, they still satisfy the growing consumer demand for scientifically proven performance on skin.

HOW SUSTAINABLE ARE PEPTIDES?

Unfortunately, consumers perceive synthetic peptides as unsustainable. However, this has nothing to do with how peptides are produced and used. The perception is more about the sense that natural = sustainable and synthetic = unsustainable.

Synthesised peptides are still made up of short chains of amino acids, which are components naturally present in the human body and the environment, thus bringing nothing foreign to these ecosystems.

Croda closely follows the 12 Principles of Green Chemistry for chemical synthesis. Placing sustainable development at the heart of its concerns, Croda ensures important measures are taken to continuously improve its peptide synthesis process.

When performing chemical synthesis, the company’s priority is to avoid the use of solvents that are harmful to people and the planet. Croda also continuously makes progress in the reduction of energy consumption and waste management.

The design of chemical reactions and synthesis routes is intended to be as safe as possible. This is the reason why Croda already proudly offers PFAS-free peptides.1 By eliminating substances like trifluoroacetic acid, or TFA, from its peptide synthesis process, Croda prioritises consumer safety and sustainability. Ahead of regulatory developments, Croda remains committed

za.customerservice@croda.com

to providing innovative solutions that meet the highest standards of safety and efficacy.

COSMETIC PEPTIDES FOR SKIN

The naturalness of cosmetic products is seen as a key concern for many consumers today. When formulating, ISO 16128 is a standard that helps with ingredient to meet growing consumer demand for natural cosmetics. It offers a framework to determine the natural and organic origin content of products, based on ingredient characterisation.

Peptides formulated in a solvent of natural origin (e.g. natural glycerine) meet the requirements of ISO 16128 with a very high natural origin index up to 99.99%. For example, Croda’s iconic peptide, Matrixyl 3000™ is now available in a greener grade of the same product known as Matrixyl 3000™ Glyx. This Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) and IECIC active ingredient is now also free from ethoxylates and carbomers.

HOW SUSTAINABLE ARE PEPTIDES?

Unfortunately, consumers perceive synthetic peptides as unsustainable. However, this has nothing to do with how peptides are produced and used. The perception is more about the sense that natural = sustainable and

WHAT ABOUT NATURAL PEPTIDES?

Peptides of natural origin are effective active ingredients, which also meet consumers’ heightened desires for ‘naturalness’.

Croda offers a range of naturally derived peptides. Poretect™ is derived from peptides naturally present in flaxseed which are cyclic and of perfectly defined size and composition.

Known as “the green architect for an empowered skin”, Poretect™ also contains senkyunolide, which is naturally present in the seeds of Selenon (or celery, Apium

Did you know?

Biopeptide CL™, Maxi-Lip™, BioBustyl PH™, Matrixyl Synthe 6™, Volulip™, Silverfree ™, Biopeptide EL™, Dermaxyl™, Calmosensine™ and Idealift™ are the range of peptides from Croda which are already TFA-free. More peptides will be added to this list in the upcoming months to reach the goal of having PFAS-free status for Croda Beauty Actives’ entire range of peptides by the end of 2026.

"Consumers perceive synthetic peptides as unsustainable"

graveolens). The mechanism of action of Poretect™ is due to its ability to stimulate the mitochondrial protein dynamics of the cell to re-densify and re-pulp the skin. It also helps improve skin’s firmness and surface homogeneity, while strengthening the pore sheath giving a younger look to the skin and moderating sebum production.

PEPTIDES AND SUSTAINABLE PALM OIL

In the personal care industry, concerns persist around deforestation and other collateral damage linked to palm oil culture. However, boycotting palm oil is not a solution. The focus should be on transforming the supply chain to sustainable palm oil.

Croda has received peer recognition for its work to deliver products containing

sustainable palm oil derivatives, certified by the RSPO. Peptides from Croda Beauty Actives include a palmitic chain to enable their bioavailability. The palm derivatives used in low amounts to produce these peptides are RSPO certified according to the Mass Balance (MB) supply chain model. •

REFERENCE:

1. Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are a group of over 10 000 synthetic compounds used in various products, including cosmetics for their water- and grease-resistant properties. Often referred to as ‘forever chemicals’, these substances have raised significant environmental and health concerns due to their persistence in nature and potential toxicity.

Croda Beauty Actives –www.crodabeauty.com

Beauty with integrity

With research-backed natural ingredients like Curcumin C3 Complex®, Saberry® and Boswellin®, Sabinsa supports the shift towards natural and sustainable cosmetics. These products combine substantiated efficacy with sustainability practices like fair trade and responsible sourcing.

The beauty industry has witnessed a significant shift towards natural and sustainable cosmetics. Consumers are increasingly aware of the potential harm caused by synthetic substances derived from petrochemicals, such as phthalates and oxybenzone. As a result, there is a growing demand for products that utilise plant oils and other natural extracts, including those from certified organic agriculture. This trend is not just a fleeting fad; it represents a fundamental change in consumer preferences and expectations.

Natural cosmetics are formulated to work harmoniously with the skin, leveraging the benefits of plant-based ingredients. These products avoid synthetic substances and instead rely on natural oils, extracts and other plant-derived substances.

A significant factor driving the popularity of natural cosmetics is the willingness of consumers to pay premium prices for these products. Many consumers are ready to invest more in skincare products that are natural and sustainable. This willingness is fuelled by the belief that natural ingredients are better for the skin and the environment.

CERTIFICATION AND TRANSPARENCY TO BUILD TRUST

One of the challenges in the natural cosmetics segment is the prevalence of greenwashing, where brands make misleading claims about the nature of their natural and sustainable products. To combat this, certification and transparency have become crucial.

Certifications from reputable organisations ensure that products meet stringent natural and organic ingredient standards. Transparency in sourcing and formulation builds consumer trust and helps distinguish genuinely natural products from those claiming to be so.

INNOVATIVE NATURAL INGREDIENTS

Quality ingredients play a vital role in the development of natural cosmetics. Sabinsa

continuously explores innovation in natural ingredients and their applications. The manufacturer offers a range of products that are highly regarded in the industry.

CURCUMIN C3 COMPLEX®

This patented extract from the dried rhizomes of Curcuma longa is renowned for its antiinflammatory and antioxidant properties. It is a potent natural ingredient known for its beneficial effects on skin health. Clinical studies have demonstrated the efficacy of Curcumin C3 Complex® in addressing various dermatological conditions thanks to its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.

One systematic review identified 18 randomised controlled trials (RCTs) examining the efficacy of curcumin in treating various conditions such as psoriasis, radiation

dermatitis, oral lichen planus, pruritus, vitiligo, tinea capitis, facial erythema and scarring.1 Additionally, curcumin has shown promise in reducing the severity of radiation dermatitis and improving oxidative status in patients undergoing cancer treatments.2

Curcumin C3 Complex® is also celebrated for its ability to modulate multiple cell signalling pathways, which helps reduce inflammation and promote skin healing.1 Its excellent safety profile makes it a viable option for long-term use in skincare.

SABERRY®

An extract from the Indian gooseberry (Amla), Saberry® is rich in vitamin C and known for its skin-brightening and anti-ageing benefits.

Studies conducted by Sabinsa have highlighted the potent antioxidant properties of Saberry. These properties protect skin from the oxidative stress caused by free radicals and heavy metals. The extract also helps prevent premature ageing and maintains overall skin health. Additionally, Saberry® has demonstrated significant antiinflammatory effects, reducing skin redness and irritation.

Another notable benefit of the extract is its ability to improve skin tone and brightness by inhibiting melanin production. These findings underscore the potential of this extract as a multifaceted ingredient for skincare, offering protection, anti-ageing and brightening benefits.

BOSWELLIN ®

A standardised extract of Boswellia serrata has been extensively studied for its skin benefits. Clinical studies have shown that Boswellin® possesses potent antiinflammatory properties, effectively treating conditions like psoriasis.

One study published in Clinical Dermatology evaluated using a Boswellia cream containing 5% of 95% 3-O-Acetyl11-Keto Beta Boswellic Acid (AKBBA) on 200 psoriatic patients. The results demonstrated significant reductions in inflammation markers such as LTB4 and TNF alpha and improvements in VEGF and PGE2 levels. 3

SUSTAINABLE SOURCING INITIATIVES

Sustainable sourcing is another critical aspect of the natural cosmetics segment. It protects the environment and supports the communities involved in producing these ingredients. Sabinsa is increasingly adopting practices that ensure the sustainability of its sources. This includes fair trade initiatives, sustainable farming and responsible harvesting methods.

Formulating cosmetics with natural and sustainable ingredients requires expertise and innovation. It involves understanding the properties of each ingredient and how they interact with each other. Sabinsa balances efficacy with safety, ensuring the final product delivers the desired results without compromising natural integrity. This expertise is crucial in creating products that meet consumer expectations for performance and sustainability.

The shift towards natural and sustainable cosmetics is more than just a trend; it represents a fundamental change in the beauty industry. By prioritising certification, transparency and sustainable sourcing, Sabinsa not only help brands and manufacturers meets stringent standards but also builds lasting

consumer trust in products formulated with its ingredients. This commitment to quality and honesty ensures that consumers can confidently choose products that align with their values and expectations.

True beauty lies not only in the products we use, but in the integrity with which they are created and sourced. •

you know?

The appeal of natural cosmetics lies in their promise of purity and safety, as well as their potential to deliver effective results without compromising health.

REFERENCES:

1. Patel, P., Wang, J.Y., Mineroff, J. et al. Evaluation of curcumin for dermatologic conditions: a systematic review. Arch Dermatol Res 316, 37 (2024). https://doi. org/10.1007/s00403-023-02754-8

2. Integrative PD. Curcumin (Curcuma, Turmeric) and Cancer (PDQ®): Health Professional Version. PDQ Cancer Information Summaries [Internet]. 2002.

3. Muhammed M, Nagabhushanam K, Sankarab N, Sood R, Kumar Karri S. Clinical evaluation of AKBBA in the management of psoriasis. Clin. Dermatol. 2014;2:17-24.

Sabinsa – sabinsa.co.za

Figure 1 A and B: Effects of Saberry® at various concentrations on tyrosinase inhibition and melanogenesis activation

The poweranti-ageing of raspberry

Vantage introduces a breakthrough cellular longevity technology derived from organic raspberry leaves. Pro-Longevia® by Solabia delivers visible rejuvenation tailored to local skincare needs.

In South Africa’s harsh climate – characterised by intense UV exposure, significant temperature fluctuations, and environmental stressors – maintaining youthful, resilient skin presents unique challenges.

Vantage is proud to introduce Pro-Longevia®, Solabia’s cutting-edge active ingredient that targets the fundamental cellular mechanisms of ageing to deliver visible rejuvenation tailored to the diverse skincare needs of South Africans.

HARNESSING NATURE’S

LONGEVITY SECRET

Pro-Longevia ® is a 100% natural extract derived from organically grown raspberry leaves, harvested using sustainable farming practices and processed through Solabia’s innovative SolaGreen ® Technology. This advanced extraction method employs subcritical conditions using water/glycol co-solvent under controlled pressure and temperature. It yields approximately double the bioactive compounds compared to traditional extraction methods while maintaining environmental responsibility. Rich in ellagitannins and ellagic acid, Pro-Longevia ® not only addresses the visible signs of ageing but also tackles their biological root causes at a cellular level. This

" Pro-Longevia® boosts stem cell regeneration capacity by 65%"

is a crucial consideration for South African consumers facing accelerated skin ageing due to environmental factors.

BEYOND SURFACE-LEVEL BENEFITS

A comprehensive approach to cellular longevity is what sets Pro-Longevia ® apart from other anti-ageing active ingredients. This innovative cosmetic ingredient targets the four primary hallmarks of ageing:

1. Genomic protection – it enhances DNA repair mechanisms to preserve cellular integrity against UV-induced damage, particularly relevant in South Africa’s high-UV environment.

2. Mitochondrial vitality – it improves bioenergetic efficiency and strengthens antioxidant defenses, protecting cells from the oxidative stress prevalent in urban and polluted areas.

3. Proteostasis maintenance – it restores proper protein balance within cells, preventing the accumulation of damaged proteins that contribute to skin ageing.

4. Anti-senescence activity – at 0.1% concentration it drastically reduces the proportion of senescent cells by 80%, preventing the spread of cellular ageing and promoting skin renewal.

Additionally, Pro-Longevia ® boosts stem cell regeneration capacity by 65%, encouraging robust skin renewal and resilience.

CLINICALLY PROVEN VISIBLE RESULTS

In clinical studies, Pro-Longevia ® demonstrated remarkable efficacy

Did you know?

The well-ageing market is estimated to be worth $120 billion by 2030.

Source: ‘Anti-aging Market Size’ –Mordor Intelligence, March 2025

at the recommended 3% concentration. The following results were documented:

• 28% reduction in crow’s feet and under-eye wrinkles

• 27% improvement in skin smoothness

• 47% reduction in visible pores after 56 days

• Lightens age spots on face, neck, décolleté area and hands

• Reduces melanin content by 35% in ex vivo stress models

• Enhances overall radiance with a 10.6% reduction in pigmentary heterogeneity. These benefits directly address the concerns of South African consumers dealing with premature ageing due to sun exposure and other environmental factors.

FORMULATION EXCELLENCE AND VERSATILITY

Pro-Longevia ® integrates seamlessly into various skincare formulations, with a recommended dosage of 3% for optimal efficacy. It is suitable for cold and hot processes (up to 45°C), soluble in water and compatible with various natural ingredients. With stability in the pH range of 3 to 7, it offers formulators the flexibility to create innovative products ranging from day creams with SPF protection to rejuvenating serums.

Pro-Longevia ® represents the future of holistic anti-ageing skincare. It is scientifically sophisticated and yet fully aligned with growing consumer demand for natural and environmentally responsible solutions.

For more information on incorporating Pro-Longevia ® into your next formulation, contact Johrinda Nel at Vantage South Africa, your trusted partner for innovative skincare ingredients. •

South Africa –Johrinda.Nel@vantagegrp.com

PRO-LONGEVIA®

Longevity by design

Holistic Biological Approach: Acts on Critical Cellular Signaling Pathways: DNA Repair, Proteostasis and Autophagy. Boosts Mitochondrial Antioxidant Defenses to Maintain Structural Integrity and Repair Mechanisms.

Support Skin Vitality and Resilience: Preserves Bioenergetic Efficiency

Protects from Cellular Senescene Helps the Epidermal Regeneration

Next-gen skincare powered by biodiversity

Provital’s Triplobiome™ Technology delivers interkingdom symbiosis for the development of two ecosystem ingredients, Shiloxome™ and Pureblome™ – marking an industry first for the business.

Triplobiome™ is an innovative biotechnological platform that harmoniously combines the power of different kingdoms within an ecosystem, generating unprecedented symbiotic synergies to create new cosmetic ingredients. This inter-kingdom fusion is inspired by genetic exchanges between plants and endophytes, activating the skin’s intelligence through nature’s timeless wisdom.

It represents a paradigm shift in the beauty industry, where deep natural knowledge meets modern science. By acknowledging the dynamic transfer of information within ecosystems, Triplobiome™ highlights the importance of sustainable practices to protect our environment while emphasising the positive impact nature has on human well-being.

This endophyte-based biotechnology offers an eco-psychological experience for beauty consumers, transforming ancestral rituals into scientific innovation and appealing to nature-driven and sciencedriven consumers alike.

"Shiloxome™ and Pureblome™ are the first two active ingredients powered by this technology"

Endophytes are symbiotic microorganisms living within plants. They possess the remarkable ability to synthesize bioactive phytochemicals, offering a sustainable alternative to plant overexploitation and providing powerful natural ingredients for cosmetics. Triplobiome™ harnesses this hidden potential, ensuring the preservation of essential biodiversity while reducing the need for large amounts of plant biomass in formulations. Shiloxome™ and Pureblome™ are the first two active ingredients powered by this technology. These ingredients embody the core values of Triplobiome™ – being sustainability, innovation and deep respect for the natural intelligence of ecosystems.

MULTI-OME

SKIN PROTECTION

Shiloxome™ is the first ever ‘ecosystem ingredient’ developed in the cosmetics industry. Derived from isolating the endophytic yeast Kwoniella mangroviensis from the bark of cork oak (Quercus suber ), it activates unparalleled skin protective mechanisms. Emerging from Triplobiome™ Technology, Shiloxome™ takes the protective

power of its symbiotic provenance to provide skin with the capacity to adapt, survive and protect itself. The integration of science into the bark narrative becomes evident through a metabolomic analysis that evaluates the combined efficacy of the numerous active molecules obtained during the technological process. The compounds from the initial endophytic extract of K. mangroviensis exhibit benefits like antimicrobial, antioxidant or collagen degradation inhibiting properties. At the same time, some are recognised plant growth promoters. Therefore, the restructuring effect of Shiloxome™ on the skin results from transferring a natural endophyte-protective system.

Drawing from the collaborative benefits of interkingdom synergy, Shiloxome™ provides comprehensive protection from modern-day pollution while fostering the delicate balance between nature and human health.

Shiloxome™’s protective efficacy is not just innovative in its symbiotic provenance, but also in its efficacy testing:

• Supported by exposomics research, Shiloxome™ safeguards the skin from environmental pollutants by preserving microbial diversity in the skin’s most superficial barrier.

• Transcriptomics data further substantiates the protective well-ageing efficacy of Shiloxome™ by stimulating crucial cellular processes in the extracellular matrix, promoting a youthful and healthy dermis.

• A breakthrough lipidomic analysis proved new lipid-enhancing mechanisms displayed by the active. In this regard, Shiloxome™ actively works to replenish the lipid barrier, bolster moisture retention and enhance the skin’s elasticity and suppleness thanks to reducing the pollution-induced lipid peroxidation that prevents the necessary lipid chain elongation.

This comprehensive in vivo analysis not only supports the restoration of a shielding function of the lipid barrier (brick and mortar) but also identifies and assesses the improved properties in the whole lipidome profile.

Figure 1: Chain length trend analysis of the whole lipidome after in vivo treatment with active or placebo. Results expressed as Fold Change D56 vs D0

Shiloxome™ orchestrates a harmonious blend of natural elements, delivering a multi-ome protective effect to the skin. This is in line with the expanding principles and consumer requirements of barrier care.

The in vitro and in vivo efficacy studies performed for Shiloxome™ prove that this first ecosystem ingredient visibly combats signs of ageing by enhancing skin’s natural barrier and safeguarding skin against pollution. These benefits make it a perfect solution to meet ageing consumers’ needs, including those associated with post-menopausal skin conditions.

AN AGRO-PSYCHOLOGICAL SOLUTION

In recent years, the conversation around femininity has shifted, intertwining ideas of empowerment, timeless beauty and self-actualisation. Women aged between 30 and 50 are embracing a new way of thriving. They are blooming in health, beauty and vigour, and their beauty demands are increasingly selective of products that target their specific needs. Among these, adult acne is booming in well-ageing.

Just as ecosystems flourish through harmony, the skin glows with vitality when its natural balance is restored. This is the essence of Pureblome™, a new ecosystem-inspired ingredient powered by Triplobiome™ Technology. Harnessing this endophyte-based biotechnology, Provital developed Pureblome™ by isolating the highly bioactive endophytic bacterium Bacillus velezensis from within the leaf tissue of agroecologically cultivated hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis), sourced from Parc de les Olors, an area in Barcelona specialising in the agroecological production of aromatic, medicinal and culinary plants. The result is the first agropsychological solution – one that taps into nature’s wisdom to restore balance and promote skin rejuvenation.

To better understand the synergistic efficacy of the active metabolites produced through this interkingdom symbiosis, a metabolomic analysis was conducted on the B. velezensis ferment used to create Pureblome™.

During the analysis, a wide range of peptides, lipopeptides and other anti-pathogenic molecules from the plant’s ecosphere were identified. By standardising these in peptides, Provital ensured that the vast metabolic intelligence of Pureblome™ is effectively transferred to the skin. This innovative ecosystem ingredient draws on the full metabolic power of nature to purify the skin while addressing the broad challenges of mature women with a triple efficacy approach that combines anti-acne and wellageing benefits. Pureblome™ is backed by advanced in vitro and in vivo research data:

• By boosting fibroblast revitalisation, Pureblome™ stimulates collagen and elastin production and decreases AGEs, addressing the root causes of skin ageing and structural integrity.

• By regulating sebocyte activity, balancing sebum production and reducing acne-related factors, Pureblome™ restores skin balance and promotes healthy, radiant skin.

• Through a comprehensive anti-inflammatory effect proven by cytokine activity reduction, the ingredient promotes an even skin tone while counteracting the effects of inflammaging.

Further proven by clinical expert analysis and instrumental measurements on 76 female volunteers, after 14 days Pureblome™ demonstrated statistically significant results vs a placebo in the reduction of pore size, number of blemishes, wrinkle depth. It also increased skin elasticity, skin tone evenness (including redness and post-inflammatory marks) and an overall balanced complexion. After 56 days, Pureblome™ achieved even better statistics for skin surface sebum reduction, an improvement in mattified complexion, a reduction in pathogenic microbial markers (Porphyrins IX), and in accelerating epidermal renewal.

Available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, Shiloxome™ and Pureblome™ are 100% naturally derived (as defined by ISO 16128). Both are also COSMOS-approved, Halal-certified, and compliant with vegan standards as well as Chinese regulations. •

Figure 4: Cross-polarised images of volunteer 12 on day 0 versus day 56 of treatment with 2% of the studied endophyte active ferment
Figure 3: Microscope images of the fibroblast migration assay, where cell migration into an exclusion zone was measured. The total area occupied by migrating cells in the detection zone was quantified and expressed as a percentage of the control. The assay was conducted at 0h, 24h and 48h
Figure 2: Cross-polarised images of volunteer 14 on day 0 versus day 56 of treatment with 2% of the studied endophyte extract (active)
With Triplobiome™ Technology, Provital is leading the way in sustainability for cosmetic ingredients, driving a comprehensive ‘greening’ of the industry. This platform bridges traditional beauty rituals and modern science, offering a holistic, nature-inspired path for the future of beauty. Ultimately, Provital is fostering a beauty experience that respects skin and the planet, promoting a new era of conscious and sustainable beauty.

A unique emollient for sunscreen applications

Evonik's TEGOSOFT® BC MB brings sustainability and performance to sun care formulations. This enzymatically produced emollient offers superior UV filter solubility while delivering the lightweight, non-greasy feel particularly valued in African markets.

Consumers prefer light, non-greasy textures that absorb quickly and feel pleasant on their skin. Sprays and lotions are popular application formats. Therefore, emollients that spread easily, feel light on skin and are non-greasy are in demand for sunscreen products. In addition, these products should be natural, bio-based and biodegradable to meet the trend towards more sustainability and protection of the oceans. If the emollient also has additional positive effects on skin physiology and improves performance through improved solubility of the crystalline UV filters, then high standards are met.

Evonik’s TEGOSOFT® BC MB (INCI name: Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate) is a highly pure emollient, which fulfils these requirements, providing a unique solution for the sun care market.

A WEIGHTLESS TOUCH FROM NATURE

Due to its eco-friendly enzymatic production process with lower temperatures and less production steps, TEGOSOFT® BC

the impact on global warming compared to conventional chemical emollients.

Moreover, it is notable that the natural emollient offers several advantages over the market standard C12-15 alkyl benzoate, thanks to its superior solubility properties when it comes to crystalline UV filters.

This makes it an ideal choice for brands looking to enhance their sustainability profile. The enzymatic production process results in higher quality, with fewer by-products and improved regioselectivity, ensuring better purity and batch-to-batch consistency for highly effective formulations.

Did you know?

The enzymatic esterification process is a novel method for producing emollients that help maintain skin hydration and smoothness. The process utilises renewable feedstocks, namely fatty acids and fatty alcohols, derived from palm oil that is sustainably sourced as well as from corn and wheat, which are regionally sourced. At the core of this process are enzymes, which act as natural catalysts, enabling the reaction between fatty acids and fatty alcohols to form esters, the desired emollients. This reaction occurs below 90°C and is powered by renewable energy, ensuring sustainability and significantly reducing the environmental impact compared to traditional methods. The outcome of this process is a highquality emollient that is well-suited for incorporation into a wide range of personal care products.

LIGHT TEXTURES FOR ENHANCED SENSORY

One of the standout features of TEGOSOFT® BC MB is its ability to create light-textured formulations, which absorb quickly without leaving a greasy film. This characteristic is particularly appealing in the African market, where consumers prefer lightweight products that feel comfortable on the skin. The emollient enhances the solubilisation of crystalline UV filters, ensuring that sun care products deliver effective protection while maintaining a pleasant sensory profile.

As illustrated in figure 1, Evonik’s guideline formulation Light Sun Care Spray SPF 50+ incorporates the emollient TEGOSOFT® BC MB.

The formulation is based on TEGO® Care PBS 6 MB, which is a unique oil-in-water emulsifier suitable for sprayable sun care formulations. The ingredient referred to as TEGO® FILMSTAR One MB is a natural and biodegradable film-forming biopolymer that improves water resistance in sunscreen products. The formulation is sprayable and the combination of ingredients used contribute to enhanced sensory properties by improving absorption and reducing oiliness after absorption.

TEGOSOFT® BC MB is equally ideal for sunscreen products containing mineral filters, because it can also disperse pigments well thanks to its good pigment wetting properties.

CLINICAL EVALUATION AND SKIN BENEFITS

TEGOSOFT® BC MB is not only effective but also well-tolerated by the skin. Clinical evaluations have demonstrated its noncomedogenicity in a final formulation tested on 19 healthy volunteers, ensuring it does not clog pores or cause skin impurities.

Furthermore, an in vivo study on 19 female volunteers using a Corneometer CM 825 (Courage + Khazaka) showed a statistically

significant increase in skin hydration after just three weeks of treatment with a basic oil-in-water formulation containing 12% TEGOSOFT® BC MB. This highlights the emollient’s ability to improve skin moisturisation, making it an excellent choice for sun care products that prioritise skin hydration and comfortable skin feel.

THE FUTURE OF SUN CARE IN AFRICA

As the sun care market in Africa continues to evolve, incorporating sustainable and effective ingredients like TEGOSOFT® BC MB will be crucial. With its excellent sensory properties, environmental benefits, skin benefits and ability to enhance the performance of sun care formulations, TEGOSOFT® BC MB stands out as a sun care key ingredient for brands looking to drive innovation in this category. •

Evonik Personal Care –personal-care.evonik.com/en

WEIGHT-LESS TOUCH FROM NATURE

TEGOSOFT® BC MB Ultra-pure liquid emollient which enhances your formulation sustainability, perfect for sun care.

Natural cactus extract shields African skin

Florapuntia,

an active ingredient derived from the flower of the prickly pear cactus, offers exceptional skin protection and hydration benefits while meeting clean beauty demands.

The resilient prickly pear cactus (Opuntia ficus-indica) has flourished for generations in harsh, sundrenched landscapes, adapting to extreme conditions while offering sustainable harvests. Florapuntia from Biocosmethic is a groundbreaking active ingredient that harnesses the power of the flowers of the organic prickly pear, bringing botanical resilience to advanced skincare formulations.

Distributed in South Africa by Transmare Chemie, Florapuntia represents the first cosmetic ingredient specifically designed to address skin hydration and protection through regulating pyroptosis – a recently identified cellular process linked to photoflammaging.

The prickly pear’s remarkable adaptation to intense sunshine and dry conditions has been translated into a powerful skincare active that mimics its natural resilience, transferring these protective properties directly to the skin.

PROVEN EFFICACY THROUGH ADVANCED MECHANISMS

In vitro studies demonstrate Florapuntia’s comprehensive action through multiple

PERCEPTIBLE BENEFITS FOR CONSUMERS

Florapuntia delivers multiple benefits that address the specific skincare concerns of South African consumers, such as:

• Sun damage prevention, offering critical protection against intense UV exposure.

Enhanced hydration through vital moisture retention in varied climatic conditions.

The active ingredient is free from preservatives, aligning with growing consumer demand for clean beauty. It also has strong sustainability credentials and is COSMOS compliant, meeting international standards for environmental responsibility.

pathways (see figure 1). Florapuntia significantly increases the production of aquaporins (AQP1 and AQP3), which are specialised proteins that facilitate water transport within skin cells, measurably improving cellular hydration. By stimulating filaggrin production, this active ingredient strengthens the skin’s natural barrier. This is particularly beneficial in South Africa’s diverse climatic conditions from coastal humidity to inland dryness.

Florapuntia uniquely regulates classical and non-classical pyroptosis mechanisms through Gasdermin D and E modulation. When tested at a concentration of 0.4%, it reduces UV-induced IL-1α by 65% and IL-1β by 63% (p<0.01 and p<0.001 respectively compared to the control), significantly decreasing inflammatory the response to sun exposure.

SUSTAINABLE

SOURCING WITH LOCAL RELEVANCE

Currently harvested in Mediterranean regions by women’s cooperatives, the prickly pear cactus is native to Central and South America, specifically the semi-arid regions of Mexico. For a long time, the prickly pear has also been naturalised in South Africa and is now a common sight.

The sustainable harvesting method, where flowers naturally dry on the cactus before hand-collection, preserves valuable bioactive compounds including polyphenols and flavonoids. This ethical approach to harvesting shows Biocosmethic’s commitment to sustainable agricultural practices and community-based economic development.

APPLICATIONS ACROSS

PRODUCT CATEGORIES

Preservative-free and solubilised in organic glycerine, Florapuntia is a versatile active

ingredient that is easy to integrate into formulations. It can be incorporated into anti-ageing treatments, daily hydration products, sensitive skin solutions, and sun care preparations. Its ability to address multiple skin concerns simultaneously makes it particularly valuable for South African formulators looking to create multifunctional products designed to meet the needs of local consumer.

Transmare Chemie invites South African cosmetics manufacturers to explore Florapuntia’s potential in creating innovative skincare solutions that combine global botanical wisdom with cutting-edge dermatological science. . •

Figure 1

Vitality: fragrances inspired by Blue Zones

Inspired by Blue Zones – regions where people live notably longer, healthier lives – Düllberg Konzentra has developed Vitality. This innovative fragrance collection captures the wellness wisdom of the world's healthiest communities, transforming ancient longevity principles into contemporary aromatic experiences.

In today’s digital world, many people feel a growing desire to reconnect with timehonoured wisdom, traditional practices and a mindful approach to nature – a trend that can have a lasting, positive impact on personal wellbeing and quality of life. In line with this, Düllberg Konzentra has developed the trend concept Vitality, inspired by the world’s renowned Blue Zones.

A JOURNEY TO REMARKABLE REGIONS

In the so-called Blue Zones, an unusually high number of people remain youthful well into old age – and often live to be over 100 in good health.

“Naturally, many people wish to live a long life, as shown by the current longevity trend. But that’s not enough – we also want to stay healthy and feel good in our own skin. This is what truly defines quality of life,” explains fragrance house Düllberg Konzentra’s marketing expert, Lisa-Marie Achilles. “People from Blue Zones reveal that this is possible –without medical intervention or medication – simply through their way of life.”

Suggested Blue Zones include Okinawa Prefecture in Japan; Nuoro Province in Sardinia, Italy; the Nicoya Peninsula in Costa Rica; and Icaria, Greece. Although these regions are scattered across different

continents, their inhabitants follow surprisingly similar principles that shape their daily routines. These principles can be adopted elsewhere with relative ease. All it takes is the will to do it – and the right inspiration.

PRINCIPLES FOR A HEALTHY, HAPPY AND LONG LIFE

Key principles that promote health and longevity include daily movement in nature, a primarily plant-based diet, a strong sense of purpose, regular moments of rest, a feeling of belonging, and spending time with likeminded people.

“Essentially, these are simple things that many people instinctively find desirable,” says Lisa-Marie Achilles. “And yet, we often see people prioritising different things in their everyday lives. Our modern society doesn’t always make it easy to stay aligned with these values.”

NOT JUST LONGEVITY BUT ALSO PROSPERITY

It is entirely possible to pursue a lifestyle that supports wellbeing while bringing joy and satisfaction – even in small, mindful moments of stillness and self-care.

“We’re talking about a holistic approach that encourages individuals to enjoy

" With our fragrance concepts, we aim to encourage people to recognise the value of good health, wellbeing and self-care"

activities that promote more than longevity, enhancing health and overall vitality,” says Lisa-Marie Achilles. “It’s about quality of life and mindful body care, which creates sensual ‘me time’.”

Sometimes, it simply requires a slight nudge in the right direction. This is the driving force behind Düllberg Konzentra’s Vitality concept – a range of fragrance ideas for bath and shower products. Silence & Relax blends coriander and white blossoms to encourage deep breaths and moments of calm. Youth Elixir combines waterlily and red berries to provide a reminder that it’s never too late to invest in your youth. The play on words – Vitamin See – uses lemon and sea breeze notes to energise and inspire.

As always with Düllberg Konzentra, complementary marketing inspiration is included, like the coordinated colour concept. This translates the fragrance compositions into a harmonious spectrum of vibrant, pastel-inspired tones.

A GENTLE NUDGE TOWARDS A BETTER LIFE

“Wellbeing is priceless – and essential to living a fulfilled, happy life,” says Lisa-Marie Achilles. “With our fragrance concepts, we aim to encourage people to recognise the value of good health, wellbeing and self-care – and to inspire them to cherish the small, everyday moments that nourish the body and soul.” •

Düllberg Konzentra – www.duellberg-konzentra.com

KEY HABITS OF THE BLUE ZONES

1. Stay active: In Blue Zones, people integrate physical activity into their daily lives, often outdoors and in nature.

2. The 80% rule: In Okinawa, Japan, people follow the Confucian principle of “Hara hachi bu” – eating only until 80% full.

3. Plant-based nutrition: Diets rich in beans, legumes, vegetables and whole grains – all staples in Blue Zone regions – offer valuable nutrients and support heart health.

4. Secondary plant compounds: Polyphenols, such as those found in red wine, are particularly valued. For instance, in Sardinia, one glass a day is part of the lifestyle.

5. Have purpose in life: The Japanese concept of Ikigai – having a reason to get up in the morning – boosts happiness and resilience.

6. Prioritising downtime: Creating space for silence and relaxation helps the body recharge.

7. A sense of belonging: Strong community bonds in the Blue Zones foster wellbeing and can contribute to longevity.

8. Putting family first: Intergenerational living is common where people care for each other across all ages.

9. Shared values: We become the average of the five people we spend the most time with – so choose wisely.

Across the globe, consumers are moving beyond cleansing to embrace skin health, wellness and environmental responsibility – and they expect brands to keep up with the developments. Brenntag supports this shift with high-performance solutions like APGs and mild surfactants, which elevate every formula from sensitive skin body washes to solid and waterless formats.

A GLOBAL OVERVIEW OF KEY

TRENDS

1. ‘Everything shower’ influence: social media has turned showering into a self-care ritual. Coined the Everything Shower, this growing trend is about head-to-toe pampering. Think multistep routines that integrate exfoliation, deep cleansing, hydration and aromatherapy. Consumers expect products that deliver skincare-like benefits for the body.

2. Skin health is the new standard: consumers are choosing microbiomefriendly, sensitive-skin-safe formulas with actives like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and probiotics. Mild surfactants are essential here, especially sulfate-free and biodegradable alternatives.

3. Solid and waterless formats: in response to sustainability concerns and convenience, the rise of solid powders, shower tablets and refillable systems is changing how consumers use bath products.

4. Customisation and sensory benefits: from calming scents to texture innovations, sensoriality plays a critical role. Brands are innovating with

Bath and shower gets a glow up!

The bath and shower category is evolving, from TikTok beauty rituals to microbiome-safe innovation.

in-shower masks, aromatherapeutic bombs and fragrance-forward experiences.

5. Intimate and life-stage care: there’s growing demand for tailored body care, from puberty to menopause. Mild, pHbalanced formulas are leading innovation in the intimate hygiene segment.

COMPREHENSIVE

BASKET OF OFFERINGS

Brenntag provides a wide variety of solutions to support formulation developments in line with these trends. Its portfolio includes:

• Alkyl polyglucosides and plant-derived, ultra-mild biodegradable surfactants.

• Sulfate-free solutions that are ideal for sensitive skin and lowfoaming formulas

• An entire range of mild surfactants.

• Emollients, conditioners and actives to boost performance and elevate sensory

appeal while delivering targeted skin and hair benefits.

Whether you’re formulating foamy cremes, solid bars or liquid washes, Brenntag’s surfactants deliver versatility and mildness for today’s consumer demand.

FORMULATION DESIGN THAT INSPIRES

Now you can elevate consumers’ daily shower routine with Brenntag's silk moisturising shower gel featured in table 1. Enriched with premium nourishing ingredients, it delivers a gentle yet effective cleanse while helping to protect and maintain skin’s natural moisture barrier.

Contact Brenntag for formulation advice and more information about its surfactant products. •

Brenntag – www.brenntag.com

Table 1: Noir silk moisturising shower gel
* Available from Brenntag

From gentle cleaning to deep care - our Beauty & Personal Care experts at Brenntag are ready to support you in creating performance-driven solutions

For your bath & body concepts, our portfolio includes:

• Mild surfactants for gentle cleansing

• Nourishing emollients & conditioners

• Proven preservatives & vitamins

• Custom fragrances

• Reliable rheology modifiers

Your global partner in Beauty & Personal Care innovation and formulation excellence.

Beyond the face: SA’s growing body care revolution

Consumer behaviour is shifting from face-focused skincare to comprehensive body care. This holistic wellness approach extends beyond nutrition to encompass bath, body and shower care. There is also growing demand for sensorial experiences in personal care products. These trends are driven by the post-COVID health and wellness movement, amplified by social media. Beauty influencers have evolved beyond makeup tutorials to showcase comprehensive grooming routines, transforming everyday showering into an affordable self-care ritual. In response, consumers are creating at-home

spa experiences through dual purchases of functional body care products (scrubs, creams, exfoliating tools) and ambiance enhancers like candles and essential oils.

EXPANDING BEYOND FACIAL CARE

Product innovation is addressing the growing demand for comprehensive body care routines. In response, South African distributors have rapidly introduced TikTok-viral brands like Sol De Janeiro, with its tropical, gourmand scented products and vibrant Brazilian-inspired packaging that appeals to younger consumers seeking novel experiences. This brand has

Rubab Abdoolla, senior research consultant at data analytics company, Euromonitor International, provides insights into the evolving beauty and wellness priorities amongst South African consumers. Growth trajectories between 2019 and 2023, illustrating how different categories have performed over time. Data source: Euromonitor International

Did you know?

In 2024, bar soap remained the dominant category with a market value of R5.6 billion and a CAGR of 7.6%, challenging the global trend towards liquid formats. This reflects South Africa’s unique consumer preferences and potential cost-consciousness amidst inflation pressures.

Beyond trendy brands, established facial care brands are expanding into body care to capitalise on opportunities in the market. Known for science-backed formulations, ingredient transparency and minimalist packaging, The Ordinary exemplifies this strategic extension.

MULTI-FUNCTIONAL SHAPES

THE FUTURE

Looking at the next few years, data analytics company Euromonitor International projects continued but moderating growth across most bath and body categories, with bar soap and general purpose body care expected to lead at a CAGR of 3.7%.

These trends highlight how South African consumers’ beauty and wellness priorities are changing, with increasing interest in multifunctional products that deliver cleansing and skin treatment benefits in a single application. •

Euromonitor International –www.euromonitor.com strategically expanded beyond its signature creams to body butters, gels and scented mists, broadening its customer base.

Security, sustainability, innovation: the triple advantage

For over 25 years, KwaZulu-Natal-based VR Print has been transforming the pharmaceutical and cosmetic packaging landscape with its specialised label solutions. What began as a highperformance printing operation has evolved into an industry leading supplier that’s reshaping how brands communicate with consumers. By

VR Print is not just a label printer. The company is a problem solver that understands the delicate balance between regulatory compliance and shelf appeal.

What sets this KZN converter apart is its laser focus on technical expertise. While many printers shy away from the complex requirements of pharmaceutical and cosmetic labelling, VR Print has embraced these challenges, earning the company a reputation as industry specialist.

FROM PRINTER TO STRATEGIC PARTNER

“Our journey from conventional printer to trusted advisor reflects VR Print’s deep understanding of the evolving needs of regulated industries,” says Hilton Van Rensburg, managing director of VR Print.

By investing in specialised equipment and cultivating regulatory knowledge, the business has positioned itself as an indispensable partner for brands navigating complex compliance landscapes while striving for visual impact.

NOVEL SOLUTIONS FOR COMPLEX CHALLENGES

Attention to functional design has made VR Print a go-to resource for companies seeking labels that work as hard as their products do.

The flagship Attach-A-Leaflet® range showcases VR Print’s expertise. These innovative multi-page labels solve a common headache for brands needing to communicate extensive information on limited space. For beauty brands juggling multiple languages or promotional content, the Peel & Read labels offer an elegant solution. Meanwhile, pharmaceutical clients rely on VR Print’s Booklet Labels to deliver detailed regulatory and dosage information without compromising package aesthetics.

For clinical products, VR Print’s clever MedTrace Labels feature detachable sections for patient records. This simple innovation has significant practical benefits for healthcare providers.

“Our clients in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries face unique challenges,” Hilton explains. “They need labels that not only comply with strict regulations but also catch the consumer’s eye and communicate their brand values.”

BEYOND BASIC LABELLING

In an age where counterfeit products pose serious risks, VR Print has joined the fight with sophisticated security solutions. Its Scantrust® secure QR codes allow consumers to verify a product’s authenticity using their smartphones. The company also offers RFID-enabled smart labels for inventory tracking throughout the supply chain. Additional security features include tamper-evident designs, microtext and variable data printing for batch-specific tracking.

"ISO 9001:2015 certification and GMP-aligned practices underpin VR Print’s

operations"

VR Print is committed to sustainability to support customers on this journey. Its multi-page labels reduce packaging waste, while its material options now include FSC-certified papers, thinner facestocks and recycled components. This commitment extends beyond products to partnerships with industry recycling initiatives like Fibre Circle and Polyco.

The company’s quality standards are also impressive. ISO 9001:2015 certification and GMP-aligned practices underpin VR Print’s operations, with 100% label inspection using advanced 4K camera systems ensuring nothing but perfection reaches the end user.

Its meticulous attention to detail is particularly valued in the pharmaceutical industry, where label accuracy can have life-or-death implications.

FUTUREPROOFING THROUGH INNOVATION

As consumer expectations and regulatory demands continue to evolve, VR Print remains committed to helping clients stay ahead. Its ongoing investments in variable data printing technology and sustainable production processes demonstrate a forward-thinking approach that resonates with brands focused on future-proofing their packaging strategies. For pharmaceutical and cosmetic brands navigating the complex world of regulated packaging, VR Print offers more than labels – it provides peace of mind. By blending technical precision with creative flair, this supplier is helping South African brands protect their products, engage consumers, and showcase their commitment to quality and sustainability. •

VR Print – vrprint.co.za

Leading packaging into a digital age

These days labels carry more weight than ever – telling brand stories, ensuring compliance, and building trust. NSI LABEL of South Africa is at forefront of digital transformation in labelling, enabling businesses to embrace fast, flexible and sustainable label production.

At its core, NSI LABEL empowers businesses to escape the rigidity and cost of traditional analogue methods like flexo or offset printing, which demand expensive plates and sizable minimum orders. The supplier focuses on digital inkjet presses, such as the UV InkJet powered All-in-One series, empowering customer to produce small to medium runs. The series produces durable, water-resistant labels with rich graphics and sharp text ideal for cosmetics and beauty, and food and beverage packaging.

Users can now print labels exactly when needed without warehousing overruns, reducing waste and ensuring up-to-date design, compliance, or promotions. The high DPI output of digital printing produces visually stunning, shelf impacting labels that resonate with consumers. It also minimises lead times, which is critical in FMCG sectors.

For example, a local boutique cosmetics brand could stand out on shelf with new packaging within days of launching a seasonal line, without bulk commitments or sourcing delays.

SEAMLESS CUTTING AND FINISHING

Beyond printing, NSI LABEL offers a suite of finishing machinery allowing customers to easily produce custom shaped labels without the cost and delay of dies. These solutions include:

• DuoBlade die-cutters for roll to roll or sheet processing.

• ASF420 flat-bed cutter with camera guided QC, ideal for medium runs and intricate packaging.

• LabelSMART LS-30, DuoBlade WX series, and DPR Taurus drag-knife or laser machines for on-demand contouring, kiss cutting, lamination and variable data capabilities.

DIGITAL PAIN POINTS SOLVED

Digital print systems can be intimidating. Harsh learning curves, software integration and remote troubleshooting often stand in the way.

NSI LABEL tackles the challenges with:

• Augmented reality remote support, accelerating fault resolution and cutting downtime.

• On-site training and locally based technical expertise backed by engineering teams trained directly with OEMs.

• AI enhanced workflows, streamlining job changeover and ensuring consistent quality.

For customers with low volume and limited technical bandwidth, these support structures make the leap to digital both accessible and productive.

SUPPORT FOR SUSTAINABLE BUSINESSES

NSI LABEL’s sustainability ethos dovetails with an industry pivot toward recyclable materials and plant-based substrates, all enabled by digital precision.

Digital print also aligns with environmental priorities and regulations. The short run production means fewer obsolescent label rolls, minimising waste. Precision ink usage and waterbased formulas also help to limit VOCs and residues.

Sharp barcodes, QR codes and variable batch info support traceability and adherence to local and global regulatory mandates.

DELIVER THE GOODS WITH DIGITAL

Thanks to it Sub-Saharan African support network, NSI LABEL outfits brands and printers with future-ready machinery,

enabling them to compete with international players at cost-effective, local scale. The company doesn’t simply sell equipment – it advises and enables profitable adoption. Today’s consumers expect transparency, quality and responsibility. Their perception of a brand often begins with packaging, and digital label production delivers all three in one scalable package.

With NSI LABEL at the helm, South African and Sub-Saharan African businesses are empowered to make the move to digital. From first sample to full-scale distribution, the company’s combination of hardware, smart software, technical muscle and local insight is helping redefining packaging. Brands and printers alike are invited to rediscover what labels can achieve – operational agility, environmental stewardship and elevated consumer trust –through NSI LABEL’s full-spectrum, digitallydriven solutions. •

PACKAGING BRAND STORYTELLING FROM DIGITAL TO SHELF

Consider a beauty startup scenario. A label-print-on-demand press means each limited-edition line can sport bespoke metallic accents or embossed effects, producing boutique packaging that reads as premium, all made on digital lines powered and supported by NSI LABEL’s full-stack solutions.

NSI LABEL’s portfolio is clearly aimed at customers who want storytelling through packaging – on-screen and instore. These consistent aesthetics drive consumer trust from digital shop-front to hands-on experience.

A journey to 100% automated label inspection

This case study explores how Novacode, a leading manufacturer of self-adhesive labels, transformed its quality control with the help of EyeC.

Based in Poland, the label printing company Novacode faced a series of quality control and operational challenges. These threatened its efficiency and product quality as its inspection processes relied heavily on manual reviews. This made it challenging for Novacode to maintain 100% quality control on high-speed production lines.

Customers in the pharmaceutical industry require impeccable quality and documented proof of this. The label printer was required to provide certificates of compliance for every batch, which was almost impossible to achieve using traditional inspection methods.

“For a company serving the pharmaceutical industry, packaging integrity is literally a matter of life and death – even minor defects are unacceptable,” explains Przemysław Ruge, CEO of Novacode.

Quality defects often went unnoticed, leading to customer complaints and costly product returns. These challenges can significantly increase operational costs and waste, ultimately impacting profitability and production efficiency.

“Using traditional inspection methods, it was simply impossible to ensure and verify 100% quality control of pharmaceutical labels and to issue a certificate of fitness while keeping up with the high print and rewind speeds of flexo machines,” he adds.

THE SEARCH FOR A SOLUTION

To address these challenges, Novacode's search for a quality control solution was driven by specific, non-negotiable requirements:

• the system needed to deliver 100% real-time inspection capability at production speeds

• integration with existing flexographic machines

• compliance with ISO standards for pharmaceutical applications

• system validation capability for regulated environments.

Strong local support was another requirement as the team valued hands-on guidance in Polish. Although other options were considered, Novacode quickly turned to EyeC, a supplier with

which it had already established a relationship over several years.

EyeC is known for its reliable systems and responsive service, which ultimately gave Novacode confidence in the partnership.

“We were looking for a system that could be validated and fits into our current workflows. We also needed strong local support. EyeC, with its ProofRunner Web system and Quality Link solution, checked all those boxes,” says Ruge.

SUCCESSFUL PHASED IMPLEMENTATION

Novacode implemented EyeC’s vision inspection systems in phases. First was the integration of the EyeC ProofRunner Web into its quality department. This was followed by the EyeC Quality Link for comprehensive, 100% inspection of every label printed. Integrated directly into Novacode’s flexographic printing machines, the systems created a seamless quality control process that operates at full production speed without compromising throughput. While the new systems weren’t just a technical shift, they required significant organisational change.

“In print shops, we often operate according to established patterns and tried and tested procedures. Any change in this area can be demanding. It requires time, team commitment, and an openness to a new approach,” acknowledges Ruge.

The success of the implementation was largely attributed to strong support from EyeC’s Polish team and buy-in from Novacode’s implementation team.

“The support from the EyeC Polska team was crucial. Their professionalism and individual approach ensured everything ran smoothly, while our own team played a key role by fully understanding the real benefits and embracing the change,” he adds.

THE INSPECTION PROCESS

The inspection solutions are integrated into a dedicated production line, where EyeC cameras scan each label during the printing process.

Every label undergoes a full 100% inspection and is verified by the EyeC ProofRunner Web. Any errors are automatically detected and flagged, allowing only defect-free products to proceed. Operators and quality control staff oversee the entire process and address any anomalies identified by the system.

The updated process also involves equipping all flexographic printing machines with EyeC vision systems, supported by trained personnel from both the quality and production departments. This transition required a realignment of workflows, adjustments to inspection speed, and a

Przemysław Ruge, CEO of Novacode

broader cultural shift toward data-driven quality assurance.

While not all customers need such a thorough inspection, Novacode has made EyeC an essential part of its universal quality monitoring process. All production at Novacode now integrates EyeC vision systems for quality monitoring and verification using EyeC ProofRunner.

“We adapted our processes to fully automated quality control,” notes Ruge. “Although this was a significant operational change, it was necessary to meet the evolving expectations of our clients and industry standards.”

LESS WASTE AND IMPROVED CONFIDENCE

The EyeC systems now play a key role in Novacode’s production line, particularly for pharma and medical labels. Since implementation, the company has achieved clear and measurable improvements. Not only has quality improved, but efficiency has soared. Automating the inspection process has drastically reduced the time and labour involved.

Minimising waste and product returns has had a direct and positive impact on the bottom line. Customers now receive verified confirmation that every label has passed the inspection, ensuring full compliance and reinforcing trust. These effects were measured through a detailed analysis of production results and KPIs from the quality department.

A LOOK AT THE FUTURE

With EyeC systems in place, Novacode has transformed its approach to quality control, boosting accuracy, efficiency and customer confidence.

“It’s not just about meeting requirements, but also setting new standards,” says Ruge.

Encouraged by these results, Novacode is now exploring further innovations, including AI-driven solutions to optimise other areas of production. As continuous training and process adaptation remain central to upholding the company’s highquality standards, the partnership with EyeC continues to play a key role in this journey.

“EyeC’s reliability, industry experience and strong technical support made them an easy choice – and a long-term partner I would highly recommend,” Ruge concludes. •

Every label undergoes a full 100% inspection and is verified by the EyeC ProofRunner Web
The EyeC Quality Link provides comprehensive, 100% inspection

Fish oils: the gold standard in wellness

For centuries, fish oils have been recognised for their health-promoting properties. Modern scientific research has now validated what traditional medicine practitioners long understood – these marine-derived oils offer exceptional therapeutic potential through their unique nutrient profile.

Fish oils derive their therapeutic properties primarily from omega-3 fatty acids—particularly eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). These essential fatty acids cannot be efficiently produced by the human body yet play crucial roles in numerous physiological functions.

Clinical research has established omega-3s as important for cardiovascular health, brain function and inflammatory modulation. Their integration into complementary medicine formulations has increased as scientific evidence supporting their efficacy continues to accumulate in peer-reviewed literature.

Lysi, founded in 1938 in Reykjavik, Iceland, has been specialising in extracting and refining these valuable marine nutrients for over eight decades. Operating one of the world’s most advanced fish oil processing facilities, the company maintains stringent quality standards evidenced by certifications including FSSC 22000, GMP and Halal certification.

SUSTAINABLE SOURCING, SUPERIOR PROCESSING

Sustainability is central to responsible fish oil production. Lysi sources from sustainably managed fishing stocks certified by the Marine Stewardship Council and Friend of the Sea. Leveraging Iceland’s renewable energy, its production minimises environmental impact while maximising nutrient preservation.

The company’s state-of-the-art refining process includes neutralisation, bleaching, winterisation, deodorisation and standardisation – eliminating contaminants while preserving nutritional integrity.

PREMIUM FISH OIL INGREDIENTS

Lysi’s portfolio of premium fish oil products is available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals. The portfolio includes:

• Cod liver oil – harvested from North Atlantic cod livers, this traditional health product is rich in vitamins A and D3, essential for vision, immunity, skin health and bone strength. It also contains valuable EPA and DHA omega-3 fatty acids, meeting European Pharmacopoeia and USP standards.

• Cod oil – extracted from whole blue whiting and related species, cod oil offers a fatty acid profile like cod liver oil. With approximately 175mg of EPA and DHA per gram, it meets EU-authorised health claims for omega-3 intake.

• Omega-3 fish oil – for higher omega-3 concentration, this product delivers a minimum of 35% total omega-3 fatty acids, including at least 18% EPA and 12% DHA, providing approximately 270mg of EPA+DHA per gram. It is sourced from sustainably managed anchoveta and European pilchard stocks.

• Tuna oil – distinguished by its exceptionally high DHA content (minimum 25% or 215mg/g), tuna oil is particularly valuable for brain development and cognitive function. The six-step refining process ensures purity while preserving nutritional value.

Th ese marine oils offer both standardised profiles and customisable solutions for manufacturers. Vitamins, antioxidants and flavours can be added to meet a brand’s specific requirements, with multiple delivery formats possible.

EVIDENCE-BASED HEALTH BENEFITS

Research continues to validate the numerous benefits of omega-3 fatty acids, such as cardiovascular, brain health, immune and vision support. Omega-3 fatty acids can help to reduce the risk of heart disease while supporting normal blood pressure function.

They have been found to enhance cognitive function and potentially prevent conditions like depression. Omega-3 fatty acids may also alleviate symptoms of arthritis and inflammatory disorders, and they may strengthen immunity and promote eye health.

As complementary medicine evolves toward evidence-based natural solutions, fish oils continue to demonstrate their value through robust scientific validation. Their versatility in addressing multiple health concerns makes them invaluable ingredients for manufacturers developing effective natural health products for the South African market. •

Did you know?

Lýsi is the Icelandic word for ‘fish oil’, reflecting the company’s singular focus on mastering this vital health ingredient.

Research-driven supplements for women

With its innovative concepts designed to support women’s health needs, IMCD South Africa is helping shape trends in this segment.

Awoman’s health journey is dynamic. The path navigated includes significant hormonal shifts, from the first signs of puberty to the transitions of perimenopause and post menopause. These changes go far beyond the reproductive system. They influence mood, energy, sleep and cognition, and can have long-term health risks such as cardiovascular disease, osteoporosis, and mental health challenges. Today’s women demand more than mere symptom relief. They need holistic, personalised solutions that support their full spectrum of well-being.

SMARTER, HOLISTIC HEALTH SOLUTIONS

Hormonal fluctuations of oestrogen and progesterone – the key hormones – can impact everything from sleep quality to mental clarity. As awareness grows around the broader health implications of these imbalances, so does the demand for effective, science-backed support.

Women want more than quick fixes – they’re looking for long-term wellness strategies that support root causes and enhance their physical

There’s no one-size-fits-all approach to women’s health. Every woman’s experience is unique, so she seeks products that reflect this individuality. Women want nutraceutical solutions that are tailored, trustworthy and transformative.

EMPOWERING WOMEN THROUGH INNOVATION

IMCD South Africa believes women deserve more than generic supplements. This is why it has developed a range of innovative concepts designed to support women throughout each stage of life. IMCD’s EASE concept line, including Cycle-Ease, Peri-Meno-Ease, MenoEase and Uro-Ease, features clinically studied ingredients that support hormonal balance, energy metabolism, cognitive function and restful sleep.

One standout concept is Cycle-Ease. This thoughtfully formulated supplement is designed to support women throughout the menstrual cycle. It combines Vitex agnus-castus (commonly known as chasteberry), which is known for its hormone-modulating properties. This is blended with a comprehensive premix of essential vitamins and minerals to contribute to energy metabolism and overall well-being. The synergistic blend helps support menstrual comfort, hormonal balance, and vitality –because wellness starts with understanding and supporting a woman’s natural rhythm.

SCIENCE-DRIVEN INGREDIENTS FOR REAL RESULTS

The formulations of the EASE concept line are built on a foundation of proven, naturally derived actives:

• Standardised soy extracts rich in isoflavones (Daidzin, Glycitin, Genistin, Daidzein, Glycitein and Genistein) are shown to reduce perimenopausal symptoms and support bone, cardiovascular and hormonal health.1

• Hops extracts (Humulus lupulus ) are clinically validated for improving sleep and reducing night sweats, while also enhancing bone mineral density. 2, 3

• Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) addresses menopausal symptoms and supports sexual wellness, which is an oftenoverlooked aspect of women’s health.4, 5

• The active form of folate (5-MTHF), which is essential for mental well-being, bone health and hormonal balance. This supports blood formation and helps reduce the risk of anaemia and hot flashes.6, 7

Each ingredient is carefully selected for its efficacy, sustainability and ability to work synergistically within the body.

LEADING THE FUTURE OF WOMEN’S HEALTH

As a trusted partner in the nutraceutical space, IMCD South Africa doesn’t just follow trends, it helps shape them. The expertise of the business unit in formulation science and market insight allows IMCD to create high performance, consumer centric solutions. In turn, these empower women to take control of their health.

With its extensive portfolio, IMCD offers a new standard in women’s wellness. This new standard is rooted in science, inspired by nature and designed to help every woman feel her best, every day. •

References available on request

South Africa –

Feel a Better You — Every Day

Targeted wellness solutions for women’s evolving needs

Empower your next women’s health formulation with smart, science-backed solutions tailored to every life stage. From sleep and mood support to hormonal balance and skin health, IMCD offers a curated portfolio of innovative nutraceutical ingredients designed to meet the evolving wellness needs of today’s women.

Whether it’s perimenopause, menopause, or everyday vitality — our team is here to help you create supplements that do more than relieve symptoms. They uplift, restore, and inspire.

Partner with IMCD – where formulation meets female-focused innovation.

For a full list of sources please refer to our

Brenntag brings high-quality natural CBD to EMEA

Lipomed’s plant-based and GMP-compliant Cannabidiol will be made available to customers in EMEA through a distribution partnership with Brenntag Specialties.

Bpharmaceutical industry in EMEA. The exclusive partnership with the Swiss life science company will see its crystalline powder containing cannabidiol derived from plants made available to pharma manufacturers throughout the region.

DEVELOPED WITH HIGH-QUALITY AND COMPLIANT METHODS

The plant extracts used to produce the Natural CBD Pure API originate from a certified Swiss hemp of the genetics Cannabis sativa L. The extracts are obtained using a gentle low-temperature extraction process.

Natural CBD Pure API contains over 98.5% pure CBD and has close to zero (≤0.10%) delta9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), preservatives and artificial additives. Unlike THC, which is known for its psychoactive effects, CBD is non-intoxicating and suitable to be used in non-narcotic pharmaceutical applications. Complying with international pharmaceutical standards, Natural CBD Pure API offers a reliable and high-quality solution to the pharmaceutical industry. It can also be

used to produce customised formulations. A BENEFICIAL COLLABORATION

Christoph Conrad, head of industry market management APIs & supplements at Brenntag Specialties, comments: “Lipomed’s high purity CBD is a perfect addition to our API portfolio in EMEA. As Brenntag always strives to work with the best and most trustworthy partners and materials of the industry, there could not be a better fit than Lipomed. These products combine natural origin, highest purity, and Swiss pharma expertise. We are very proud of the trust and confidence we are receiving with this exclusive partnership, and we are sure that together we will create a significant contribution to the development of the pharmaceutical market in EMEA.”

Dr Athanasios Zikopoulos, CEO of Lipomed, adds: “We are delighted and proud to join forces with such a reputed and skilled partner as the Brenntag team for the commercialisation and distribution of our

Natural CBD Pure API in the EMEA region. This marks the beginning of a certainly fruitful cooperation that will benefit both parties and their customers.” •

NATURAL CBD PURE API APPLICATIONS:

In compliance with the relevant national legislation, Natural CBD Pure API can be used:

• As a raw material for extemporaneous preparations or house specialities in the pharmacy.

• As a component for ointments, creams, emulsions, etc.

• As a component for food supplements and nutritional products.

Brenntag – www.brenntag.com/en-za Lipomed – lipomed.com

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