In an industry where every millimetre of package space tells a story, VR Print has carved out a reputation as the label technology partner that transforms complex packaging challenges into competitive advantages.
Buckle Packaging is driving sustainable growth across Southern Africa. The company continues to lead the charge in sustainable packaging innovation, helping manufacturers across diverse industries transition to eco-friendly solutions without compromising on performance.
In a market where packaging choices can make or break product success, Bright Packaging & Raw Materials has established itself as the go-to partner for companies seeking quality, flexibility, and sustainability without compromise.
If you are a supplier to the packaging industry, this will be an ideal opportunity to showcase your product offering and create additional brand awareness within the food, beverage, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, personal care, and home care manufacturing sectors.
Contact our advertising Key Account Managers to book your space:
6 News
Cipla and ImmunoACT launch CAR‑T therapy in Africa
CDP recognises Symrise for sustainability results
New partnership brings Krill and Algal ingredients to SA
10
Sun Care
Innovation for every shade under the sun
Next generation UV filters from Brenntag SA
A microbiome first approach to sun protection
Explore Jan Dekker’s high performance UV filters
dsm firmenich breaks new ground in sun care
22 Preservatives/ Anti-Microbials
Evonik’s smart solutions for modern product protection
24 Pharma Focus/ Excipients & APIs
Understanding excipients: Beyond the ‘inactive’ label
Bridging the GMP gap with precision down packing
28
Hair Care
Advanced conditioning for high performance hair care
Fuel your development pipeline
Our February edition brings you essential insights to fuel your development pipelines for the months ahead. As we move through peak summer, it's the perfect time to assess innovations that will shape your formulations for the coming seasons. Sun care technology dominates this issue, and for good reason. From BLOC SOLEIL’s successful launch as a new South African mineral sunscreen
brand tailored for diverse African skin tones, to advanced PARSOL® UV filter developments and Jan Dekker's new-generation broad-spectrum solutions, this issue showcases market opportunities and the innovative ingredients to capitalise on them as you approach autumn and next summer's planning cycles.
Our pharmaceutical focus examines the evolving landscape of excipients and APIs – critical considerations for manufacturers navigating increasingly complex formulation challenges.
The spotlight on hair care, featuring AminoSensyl™'s quat-free conditioning systems, presents compelling alternatives for brands targeting the growing clean beauty segment.
The standout piece this month is Leani van der Walt's exceptional Coschem student essay on neurocosmetics. Her exploration of skin-brain-axis science offers valuable insights into an emerging category that's capturing consumer imagination and creating new formulation opportunities.
These innovations aren't just today's news – they're tomorrow's competitive advantages.
CONTRIBUTORS: Ò Expósito, M Buchholz, A Guirado, A Gallego, M Mas, P Riera, D Luna, S Laplana, T Ruiz, S Ruiz, M Gibert, Daniela Peters, Dr Yorck Mohr, Dr Sebastian Herkersdorf, Petra Biehl, Leani van der Walt
HEAD OF CONTENT & DIGITAL STRATEGY: Varushka Padayachi
PRODUCTION MANAGER: Angela Silver
GROUP ART DIRECTOR: David Kyslinger
MEDIA24 MEDIA
CEO: Minette Ferreira CFO: Lana Goliath
MEDIA24 CORPORATE
CEO MEDIA24: Raj Lalbahadur
CFO MEDIA24: Nelmarie Beyers
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Amcor provides one-stop solution for Inis brand extension
Amcor, a global leader in developing and producing responsible packaging solutions, is providing a one-stop solution of bottles and flexibles tubes to Fragrances of Ireland. The solution supports the extension of the company’s signature collection, Inis the Energy of the Sea, into hair care.
Fragrances of Ireland has been creating perfumes and personal care products inspired by the nature, beauty and magic of Ireland for over 40 years. The Inis the Energy of the Sea range includes perfumes, skin care, shower gel, candles and diffusers. Its body care products feature skin restoring ingredients harvested from the North Atlantic – seaweed extracts and sea minerals – that can help soothe, hydrate and rejuvenate. As part of Inis’ continuing expansion, Fragrances of Ireland has now developed a range of hair care products.
For the packaging for these new items – a shampoo, conditioner and spray – the company commissioned Crilly & Wardell Design Consultants to develop a distinctive look while complementing the strong Inis brand identity, and Amcor was selected to transform these bespoke concepts into reality.
The range comprises a 150mℓ bottle and pump, 300mℓ bottle and 250mℓ flexible tube. Amcor’s technical skills were critical in the selection of the masterbatch that not only matched the distinctive blue of all the Fragrances of Ireland products but also delivered colour consistency across the different materials used to manufacture the packs – HDPE for the bottle and spray, HDPE/LLDPE mix for the flexible tube and PP for the closures. On shelf impact is also enhanced using a silver foil decoration for the Inis logo.
Both the bottles are lightweight and durable, combining effective protection for their products with maximum consumer convenience.
Cipla and ImmunoACT launch CAR‑T therapy in Africa
Cipla, a global pharmaceutical leader, has partnered with ImmunoACT to introduce Talicabtagene Autoleucel in Africa. This is India’s first indigenously developed anti‑CD19 CAR‑T therapy. The exclusive license and supply agreement will see Cipla, through its subsidiary Medpro Pharmaceutica, commercialise the therapy in the Republic of South Africa, Algeria and Morocco. Furthermore, ImmunoACT will handle manufacturing.
Talicabtagene Autoleucel is a cutting-edge autologous CAR-T therapy designed to treat relapsed or refractory B - cell Non - Hodgkin’s Lymphoma (B - NHL) and B - cell Acute Lymphoblastic Leukemia (B - ALL) in patients who have not responded to standard treatments. This therapy has already been administered to over 500 patients in India. It has demonstrated high efficacy, durable responses and a well tolerated safety profile.
This partnership aims to make advanced cell therapy more accessible and affordable in African
markets with significant unmet medical needs. Cipla and ImmunoACT are addressing critical gaps in cancer care. They are doing this by reducing ancillary healthcare costs and offering a highly effective treatment option.
Achin Gupta, Cipla’s MD and global CEO designate, emphasised the importance of this partnership in strengthening Cipla’s oncology portfolio and advancing its mission to improve access to life-saving therapies.
Paul Miller, CEO of Cipla Africa, highlighted the potential of this collaboration to transform cancer care in the region. Dr Rahul Purwar, founder and chairman of ImmunoACT, expressed pride in bringing India’s indigenous CAR-T therapy to a global stage.
This collaboration underscores Cipla’s dedication to innovation and its commitment to providing affordable healthcare solutions. By introducing Talicabtagene Autoleucel in Africa, Cipla and ImmunoACT are paving the way for a new era in cancer treatment.
Amcor’s ability to manage the production of all three packs gives the Inis brand the same high quality construction across the range
Elegant panstick blends sustainability and sophistication
The Linea PP Panstick is a stylish packaging solution that is ideal for makeup brands seeking high-end aesthetics, recyclable materials and reliable performance. The refillable stick from beauty packaging manufacturer and provider, Quadpack, combines European-crafted design with a proven mechanism to meet the demands of today’s beauty market.
The panstick is designed for a variety of makeup formulas, including stick foundations, blushes, highlighters and contour products. The cylindrical pack features 60/40 cap to base proportions, creating a differentiated, contemporary silhouette. Its seamless design adapts easily to a wide range of brand identities. This refined simplicity allows decoration to take centre stage, with full customisation options available to align with each brand’s visual language.
Sustainability is inherent in the mono-material design. The pack is made of polypropylene (PP), with the option to include post-consumer recycled (PCR) content, helping brands support recyclability without compromising on aesthetics or performance. A practical snap on system allows easy refilling, lowering environmental impact with every reuse.
Linea PP Panstick brings together the best of global technology and European manufacturing excellence. It uses a POM-free mechanism, precision engineered by a trusted Asian partner for a smooth, controlled glide. The cap and base are manufactured at Quadpack’s facility in Germany, with in-house assembly and decoration. For European brands, reshoring the technology for local manufacture enables shorter lead times and a lower carbon footprint.
Linea PP Panstick has a 10g capacity and is compatible with both top and bottom filling.
CDP recognises Symrise for sustainability results
Symrise has received high scores from CDP, the independent disclosure platform that rates corporate environmental disclosure and performance. In the 2025 assessment, the company earned A ratings for climate change and water security respectively, and a B rating for forest stewardship. These results attest to the profound transparency achieved by only a select group of businesses worldwide. It also provides guidance for progress, for example in forest ecosystems conservation in global supply chains. By disclosing robust, science-based performance data, Symrise empowers its partners to make sustainable choices within their value chains.
The current evaluation of CPD covers more than 23 100 companies worldwide. By receiving these ratings, Symrise demonstrates tangible actions while committing to refining its efforts to support sustainable business practices. With its rating in the climate category, Symrise ranks among the top 7% of reporting companies worldwide. The company is also positioned among the leading companies globally in the forest (top 8%) and water (top 11%) categories.
These ratings help companies and their stakeholders translate complex environmental data into decisions. Customers obtain externally verified metrics for their own product declarations; investors gain clearer insight into climate- and nature-related risks and opportunities, and Symrise receives an objective benchmark for its strategic roadmap. As part of this journey, Symrise will continue to strengthen its efforts to avoid or minimise the environmental impacts of its business activities.
“We welcome these scores as they acknowledge our performance and give us valuable guidance to further improve our environmental stewardship,” says Dr Isabella Tonaco, chief sustainability officer at Symrise. “Our transparency allows everyone to track Symrise’s journey. To broaden our approach, we will translate our learnings into scalable models across the business. Examples include Madagascar, where we pioneered and continuously enhanced a robust, sustainable end-to-end vanilla supply programme; the Philippines, where we source sustainable coconut; and the Brazilian Amazon, where we source a diverse range of raw materials for cosmetic applications. Our partnership with Deutsche Bank in the development of a new class of carbon credits to protect rainforests, together with our support for the We Mean Business Coalition manifesto at COP 30 on a roadmap to end fossil fuels, demonstrates responsible thinking and action across our entire business.”
Linea PP Panstick brings together the best of global technology and European manufacturing excellence
New partnership brings Krill and Algal ingredients to SA
Aker BioMarine is pleased to announce a new distribution agreement with specialty ingredients provider, SK Chemtrade Services.
This strategic partnership marks an exciting step forward in bringing its sustainable, high-quality Krill and Algal DHA ingredients to customers in South Africa, Zimbabwe and neighbouring countries. Combining their expertise in human nutrition, Aker BioMarine and SK Chemtrade will help support healthier lives with responsibly sourced, science-backed ingredients across the region.
Growing its product portfolio in South Africa represents a strategic move for Aker BioMarine, aligning with several powerful market trends. The region’s growing focus on health and wellness supports continued demand for scientifically backed supplements like Krill oil. Additionally, South Africa’s rising interest in clean label and natural products positions krill oil – sourced sustainably from pristine Antarctic waters – as a compelling option. This partnership not only broadens the global reach of Aker BioMarine’s innovative health supplements but also reinforces the company’s ongoing commitment to sustainability and excellence in marine-based nutrition.
“We are thrilled to partner with SK Chemtrade to bring our Krill
oil products to the South African market,” said Mercè Piñol, SVP sales human health ingredients EMEA & LATAM at Aker BioMarine. “As a company deeply committed to advancing human health through sustainable omega 3 solutions, we
South Africa’s rising interest in clean label and natural products positions krill oil as a compelling option
see tremendous opportunity in this region. SK Chemtrade’s strong technical expertise, trusted supplier relationships and established distribution network – further enhanced by its joint venture with Barentz – make the company an ideal partner for expanding our footprint in Southern Africa.”
“We at SK Chemtrade are proud to join forces with Aker Biomarine,” says marketing director, Colleen Ferrao. “This partnership marks an exciting milestone and helps strengthen our position as a leader in speciality nutraceuticals. By combining Aker Biomarine’s world-class industrial expertise with our deep market reach, SK Chemtrade is laying the foundation for sustained business growth. As consumer demand for nutraceuticals and dietary supplements continues to surge, this collaboration ensures we can deliver clinically proven, high-quality ingredients that meet the evolving needs of the health-conscious South African market.”
2026 Diary
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Joburg, South Africa saaffi.co.za
Beauty Düsseldorf 20 to 22 March
Düsseldorf, Germany www.beauty-duesseldorf.com
SAPHEX 25 to 26 March
Joburg, South Africa saphex.co.za
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This is a story of African innovation, science-led skincare and the birth of BLOC SOLEIL Sunscreens – proudly developed and manufactured in South Africa.
Africa is home to some of the most diverse complexions in the world, living under some of the highest UV exposure levels globally. The need for sunscreen that protects without compromising skin health, tone, or comfort is not only a cosmetic preference, but also a public skin-health priority.
sunscreens remain limited, often imported and rarely formulated to complement deeper skin tones found across Africa and the diaspora.
Traditional mineral sunscreens containing Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide tend to leave a white or grey cast, especially on Fitzpatrick 4 to 6 skin tones. This has historically discouraged use among consumers, despite the crucial need for daily sun protection in preventing hyperpigmentation, premature ageing and longterm UV damage.
Considering these trends, Suave Designs saw a clear opportunity to create a mineral sunscreen that protects, soothes, hydrates and blends without leaving a visible cast.
BLOC SOLEIL is making a difference in the market as a mineral sunscreen range designed for every shade under the sun. The range was created by Suave Designs, a South African cosmetics research, formulation and manufacturing company based in Meyerton, Gauteng.
CLOSING A GAP IN THE MARKET
South Africa’s sunscreen market is still largely dominated by products with chemical-based formulations, including those positioned for babies and sensitive skin. While chemical sunscreens are not inherently harmful, mineral
ENGINEERED FOR SKIN DIVERSITY
BLOC SOLEIL is formulated using 100% mineral UV filters, Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide, dispersed in advanced delivery systems to ensure uniform protection and optimal performance. The sunscreens are developed for Fitzpatrick 1 to 6, ensuring a natural, nonashy finish across skin tones. Available in tinted shades, BLOC SOLEIL offers customised shade adaptation for everyday
The formulation incorporates African Opuntia ficus-indica (prickly pear) stem extract (AquaCacteen™), known for its ability to soothe redness, enhance hydration and strengthen the skin barrier. Aloe vera, squalane and panthenol complement this action by restoring moisture balance, calming irritation and supporting skin repair.
BLOC SOLEIL is clinically and ISO tested (ISO 24444 / ISO 24443), and UVA+UVB protection validated to South African and international standards. The range is proudly formulated and manufactured in South Africa, supporting local industry development, training and job creation.
A LEADING INNOVATOR IN SKINCARE
Suave Designs is a science-led beauty innovation company committed to developing high-performance skincare solutions that are safe inclusive, affordable and export-ready. The company’s work is anchored in three pillars: 1. Research and development – innovating skincare that meets international standards,
BLOC SOLEIL offers customised shade adaptation for everyday wearable protection
validated through clinical testing and regulatory compliance.
2. Formulation and product development –developing high-performance formulations for brands and private-label clients in skincare, sun care and colour cosmetics applications.
3. Manufacturing and contract production : Producing sunscreens, skincare products, and liquid foundations for B2B and private clients, with scalable capacity to support international market entry through partnerships.
In addition to BLOC SOLEIL, Suave Designs also develops and manages a growing portfolio of inhouse brands, such as:
• BOTLE Organics sensitive-skin and barrierrepair skincare.
• Luna Aesthetics Clinic, which is a clinical skincare and treatment centre.
The vision of the business is to establish Suave Designs as a leading innovator in skincare formulation and product development, delivering high-quality, high-performance solutions for local and global markets.
“We are committed to advancing bespoke product development across the SADC region and positioning our brands at the forefront of science-driven skincare,” Refilwe Hlaoli, codirector of Suave Designs. •
•
•
A SUNSCREEN FOR AFRICAN SKIN BLOC SOLEIL IS:
Advanced UV filters & full-service support for sun care formulations
Innovative, next-generation UV filters – powdered by Sarex Overseas, Distributed by Brenntag Beauty & Personal Care
• Complete portfolio of UV filters, actives and specialty ingredients
• Technical expertise by our Beauty & Personal Care team
• Customized formulation support
• Innovative, trend-driven ingredient solutions
We help you create effective, safe & sensorypleasing sun care products.
Next‑generation UV filters
Sun protection only works when people enjoy using it. That is why next-generation UV filters matter. Sarex ingredients help formulators create high-performance sunscreens that feel good, apply easily and work hard throughout the day. Photostability, mildness and strong activity at low use levels come together to support real consumer needs — from serums and gels to sprays, sticks and lightweight emulsions.
Sun protection is no longer just about preventing burns. It is now an integral part of daily skincare, hair care, colour cosmetics and overall wellness. Several key market drivers are shaping the next wave of sun care innovation:
• The rise of second-generation UV filters – Traditional UV filters have faced increasing regulatory scrutiny and consumer demand for milder, skin-friendly ingredients.
Next-generation UV filters such as Sarasorb BEMT, Sarasorb DHHB and Sarasorb EHT offer:
- improved photostability reducing the need for frequent reapplication
- efficient protection achieved using lower concentrations which also improves formulation flexibility
- better skin compatibility making them ideal for sensitive skin ecoconscious profiles addressing environmental concerns.
• The skinification of hair and scalp protection – As consumers become more aware of UV damage to the scalp and hair, brands are introducing dedicated sun care solutions. Hair protection is now a key extension of
skincare, leading to innovative formats like the Sun & sea mist bi-phasic SPF 30 hair spray, which delivers UV protection alongside conditioning benefits. This bi-phasic microemulsion ensures even distribution of oil- and watersoluble ingredients, combining
lightweight sensoriality with longlasting performance and a clear, elegant visual appeal.
• Multifunctional and sensorial sunscreens – Consumers want convenience without compromise. Sun care must be lightweight, easy to use and elegant on the skin. Stick
formats, biphasic sprays and invisible sunscreen formulations are gaining traction. The Clear sunscreen stick SPF 50+ exemplifies this shift with a non-greasy, transparent finish and high SPF performance.
FORMULATION INSPIRATION
Major brands are already leveraging next-generation UV filters to create highly effective yet elegant sun care solutions. Brenntag’s formulations demonstrate:
• Enhanced photostability and lower filter concentrations enabling lightweight skin-friendly sun care that is environmentally friendly.
• Hybrid formats like biphasic mists and invisible sticks to meet consumer demand for ease of use and sensorial appeal.
• The incorporation of skin-loving ingredients such as bio-based emollients and actives for added skincare benefits.
• Multifunctional formulas which include science-backed active ingredients.
• Advanced UV filters like Sarasorb BEMT and Sarasorb DHHB outperform traditional filters in stability, efficacy and user experience, according to scientific studies.
OUTLOOK AND RECOMMENDATIONS
The sun care market is changing in exciting ways. We can expect to see more hybrid SPF products that offer extra benefits, including better protection for hair and scalp, tinted options that combine makeup with sun protection, and multi-benefit sunscreens that do more than just protect from UV rays.
Brands are moving towards gentler, more stable UV filters that are cleaner and more environmentally friendly. There is also a growing focus from brands to help consumers understand sun protection better through clear labelling and honest SPF claims. This helps build trust and keeps customers engaged with these products.
Formulators can leverage nextgeneration UV filters to design highly stable and elegant sun care formulations. They should explore new textures and formats to align with consumer demand for non-greasy lightweight SPF products. They can also incorporate skincare actives to enhance the dual benefits of sun care and skin health. Contact Brenntag SA’s Beauty & Care team for more guidance on sunscreens and sun care ingredients and UV filters. •
Brenntag SA – www.brenntag.com/en-za
Table2: Formulation guide - Multi light clear sun stick SPF 50+
A microbiomefirst approach to sun protection
Vytrus Biotech explores role of the sun-microbiota-skin axis in advanced approaches in sun care and to address photoageing. By Ò Expósito, M Buchholz, A Guirado, A Gallego, M Mas, P Riera, D Luna, S Laplana, T Ruiz, S Ruiz, M Gibert.
Research into skin microbiota and its fundamental role in maintaining skin homeostasis, resilience and long-term health has intensified in recent years. This research has revealed that skin ageing – particularly sun-induced pigmentary disorders – are not driven solely by UV-induced cellular damage, but by a complex biological interplay involving microbial balance, oxidative stress, inflammation and altered intercellular communication. These mechanisms are closely linked to several hallmarks of ageing, positioning the microbiota as a key modulator of skin longevity.¹
Vytrus Biotech has been pioneering skin microbiota research for over a decade, translating advanced biological insights into innovative cosmetic solutions. The biotech company is currently researching the connection between the skin
microbiota and solar radiation. Its research is driven by the rapid growth of the sun care market, which is predicted to reach $25.3 billion in value by 2033.²
In response, Vytrus Biotech has developed Photobiome™, a plant biotechnology-based active that introduces the sun-microbiotaskin axis. It modulates microbiota behaviour, microbial melanin and oxidative stress pathways. By addressing key hallmarks of ageing and going beyond traditional melanincentred approaches to pigmentation, the active helps strengthen skin’s biological defenses against photoageing and supports advanced skin longevity.
NEW POTENTIAL IN SKIN
PHOTOAGEING
Skin microbiota plays a key role in the maintenance of skin health and changes with age.3-5 Certain microorganisms, such
as Staphylococcus epidermidis, Micrococcus luteus, Bifidobacterium spp., and Malassezia furfur, are crucial in protecting the skin against UV radiation.6 -7 The metabolism of these microorganisms contributes to the skin’s protection against sun exposure.
The Photobiome Factor is the skin microbiota and its state when exposed to sun radiation, including the microbial metabolic behaviour. The community of bacteria can interact with sun radiation and produces specific metabolites – the solar postbiotics (metabiotics) – which can be either beneficial or harmful to skin’s cells.
Microbial melanin and urolithins are newly discovered solar postbiotics, which photoprotect the cutaneous microbiota and are part of skin’s natural photo-defense system. When there is excessive sun exposure, the population of protective microbes is reduced, the production of these compounds decreases, and skin’s synthesis of harmful metabolites increases, leading to photoinduced skin damage and photoageing.
Therefore, Vytrus presents the sunmicrobiota-skin axis as a new approach in cosmetic science. This discovery allows for a revolutionary plant-based approach –targeting photo-ageing by protecting the skin microbiota from sun damage.
Photobiome™ is a 100% natural active ingredient from the stem cells of pomegranate (Punica granatum) and cotton (Gossypium herbaceum) from the desert and semi-arid regions of the Near and the Middle East. Through a new biotechnological platform of Phyto-Cell Fusions, Vytrus Biotech obtains a synergistic effect of photoageing prevention by protecting the skin microbiota with a novel mechanism of action
Figure 1: Mechanism of action of Photobiome™
based on a sustainable plant biotechnology (see figure 1).
The active ingredient modulates the metabolism of bacteria and stimulates them to produce their own natural photodefense molecules beneficial to skin cells. Photobiome™ also protects the microbiota and skin cells from photooxidative stress caused by harmful solar radiation. Ultimately it improves signs of the skin photoageing process.
IN VITRO BIOLOGICAL ACTIVITY
The bacterial population (CFU) of different microorganisms was quantified (S. epidermidis, M. luteus and B. pseudocatenolatum). Each was cultured in its specific culture medium in petri plates (serial dilutions followed by CFU count), in different conditions: non irradiated, and irradiating at 6J (broad spectrum: UV, visible and IR) in absence or presence of the active (at a 20% dosage, as the bacterial populations were very high, between 200 000 and 5 000 000 CFU).
The solar radiation reduced the bacterial populations, while the active could maintain higher rates of survival. S. epidermidis showed the highest CFU count reduction when exposed to solar radiation. In this case the active ingredient increased the bacterial survival seven-fold versus the irradiated untreated control. With M. luteus and B. pseudocatenolatum, more than the 100% of the CFU count was recovered compared to the irradiated untreated control.
In another assay, the effect of solar radiation was analysed on a co-culture of various microorganisms in plates. The following microorganisms cultured: S. epidermidis, Staphylococcus capitis, Streptococcus mitis, Corynebacterium tuberculostearicum, Corynebacterium simulans, Cutibacterium acnes, and Malassezia pachydermatis . A total reduction of the microbiota was observed when irradiating 2.69J (UV) and applying a lotion without any SPF. But with the same irradiation plus a lotion with a 3% of the active Photobiome™, the co-culture could maintain a 43% of survival (see figure 2).
CLINICAL EVALUATION
An in vivo test was performed on 20 volunteers aged between 49 and 67 with signs of photo-ageing and a summer tan. It was a double-blind and placebo-controlled assay, hemi-facial application, with 1% dosage and two daily applications during 28 and 56 days. The test was carried out in Italy at the end of the summer season, so sun
exposure and damage on volunteers’ skin were maximised.
The variation in the Individual Tipology Angle (ITA) was measured to study skin pigmentation during treatment, both on the face and in the dark hyperpigmented skin. The active increased ITA values up to 19%, modulating the melanin intensity and providing a lighter skin pigmentation along with an improvement in the dark spots.
Skin firmness and elasticity were also assessed, where the active effectively reversed and repaired the damage to the viscoelastic properties of the skin by photoageing, showing a progressive restoring effect.
The wrinkle depth in the crow’s feet and nasolabial regions (eye contour and bar code areas) was also reduced at 28 and 56 days, after applying the active ingredient.
According to the results derived from this clinical assay, Vytrus Biotech can conclude that skin is efficiently protected and repaired from photoageing, thanks to the active ingredient. Photobiome™ preserves cell viability and balance, photo-protects both the microbiota and skin’s cells from sun damage. Consequently, the skin becomes firmer and more elastic, more even in tone and texture, brighter and with a clear reduction of all types of premature wrinkles linked to photoageing (see figure 3).
CONCLUSION
Available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, Photobiome™ is a 100% natural active ingredient developed through plant biotechnology. It preserves skin microbiota balance under solar stress, and acts on key hallmarks of ageing linked to photoageing. Through modulation of microbial metabolism and microbial melanin, Photobiome™ strengthens skin’s biological photodefense system, helping prevent sun-induced hyperpigmentation, limiting melanin accumulation, and supporting firmer, more resilient, and even-toned skin for advanced skin longevity. •
REFERENCES:
1. López-Otín C, Blasco M A, Partridge L, Serrano M, Kroemer G. Hallmarks of aging: an expanding universe. Cell. 2023;186(2):243-278. DOI: 10.1016/j.cell.2022.11.001
2. Sun Care Products Market Outlook (Future Market Insights).
3. Li, Z., et al., New Insights Into the Skin Microbial Communities and Skin Aging, 2020, Front. Microbiol., 11, 565549.
4. Howard, B., et al., Aging-Associated Changes in the Adult Human Skin Microbiome and the Host Factors that Affect Skin Microbiome Composition, 2022, J. Invest. Dermatol., 142: 1934-1946.
5. Luna, P. C., Skin Microbiome as Years Go By, 2020, Am. J. Clin. Dermatol., 21 (Suppl. 1): 12-17.
6. Yang Y. et al., Advances in the human skin microbiota and its roles in cutaneous diseases, 2022, Microb. Cell Factories, 21, 176.
7. Taner K. et al., Bioprospecting the Solar Panel Microbiome: High-Throughput Screening for Antioxidant Bacteria in a Caenorhabditis elegans Model, 2019, Front. Microbiol., Sec. Extreme Microbiology, 10:986.
Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
Vytrus Biotech – www.vytrus.com
Figure 3: Improvement in photodamaged skin after applying Photobiome™
Figure 2: Microbiota protection in skin co-culture models with 3% Photobiome™. UV exposure reduces the count to zero, while the active achieves 43% survival of the microbiota
Advances in UV filter technology are enabling effective sun protection that combines photostability, skin safety and a refined, non-greasy sensory profile – making these solutions suitable for daily skincare and high-SPF formulations.
Consumer awareness of ultraviolet radiation is also evolving. UV exposure is no longer associated only with beach holidays or outdoor activities, but increasingly with everyday life, including incidental exposure through windows and glass. While UVB radiation is widely recognised for its role in sunburn, UVA radiation is a key contributor to premature skin ageing. Although often underestimated, the cumulative impact of UV exposure over time is significant.
This growing awareness is driving a shift in product development. UV filters are now being incorporated into daily facial and skincare products, not only traditional sun care. As a result, demand is rising for UV filters that are photostable, skin-friendly, compliant with regulatory standards and suitable for longterm daily use.
At the same time, formulators and consumers alike are asking more fundamental questions: what exactly is ultraviolet radiation, and how can skincare products effectively protect against it?
A MODERN APPROACH TO UV PROTECTION
Jan Dekker’s new-generation UV filters respond to current reformulation trends by delivering longlasting protection against UV radiation known to damage the skin. Designed with performance and safety in mind, these filters offer a balanced approach to modern sun protection.
Key characteristics include:
• high photostability
UV filters for highperformance sun protection
A breakthrough UV filter technology from Jan Dekker is delivering exceptional protection with a premium feel. The innovative platform is now available to South African formulators through IMCD.
• a strong safety profile
• low skin penetration.
Available in South Africa from IMCD, the portfolio comprises:
• four oil-soluble UV filters:
• two broad-spectrum filters
• one UVB filter with exceptionally high absorption efficiency
• one dedicated UVA filter.
Together, these UV absorbers enable flexible, EU-compliant formulations across a broad range of SPF levels.
SENSORY PERFORMANCE
BEYOND PROTECTION
To enhance product functionality and aesthetics, the UV filter range is complemented by two emollients that work synergistically within formulations. One of these emollients actively enhances UVA absorption, contributing functional benefits in a formulation in addition to sensory improvement.
While oil-soluble UV filters are often associated with heavy or greasy skin
feel, carefully developed formulations demonstrate that this perception can be overcome. The result is skincare and sun care products that deliver:
• a velvety, non-greasy skin feel
• a visibly matte finish
• in vitro SPF 50+ performance
These outcomes highlight that high-level UV protection and elegant sensory properties are not mutually exclusive.
SUPPORTING SMARTER FORMULATION DEVELOPMENT
Thanks to its versatility, Jan Dekker’s UV filter platform is suitable for applications ranging from everyday facial care to highSPF sun protection products. IMCD South Africa offers technical support, including formulation guidance, samples and prototype development, to assist formulators in accelerating innovation while meeting regulatory and performance expectations. •
Jan Dekker – www.jandekker.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za
Rethinking Everyday UV Protection
Rethinking Everyday UV Protection
Rethinking Everyday UV Protection
Photostable, skin-safe UV filters designed for modern skincare and high-SPF formulations
Photostable, skin-safe UV filters designed for modern skincare and high-SPF formulations
Photostable,
skin-safe UV filters designed for modern skincare and high-SPF formulations
Daily exposure to ultraviolet radiation—often overlooked but cumulative in effect—has reshaped the role of UV protection in skincare. No longer limited to traditional sun care, UV filters are now an essential component of everyday facial and skin formulations.
skincare and high-SPF formulations
skincare and high-SPF formulations
Daily exposure to ultraviolet radiation—often overlooked but cumulative in effect—has reshaped the role of UV protection in skincare. No longer limited to traditional sun care, UV filters are now an essential component of everyday facial and skin formulations.
Daily exposure to ultraviolet radiation—often overlooked but cumulative in effect—has reshaped the role of UV protection in skincare. No longer limited to traditional sun care, UV filters are now an essential component of everyday facial and skin formulations.
Daily exposure to ultraviolet radiation—often overlooked but cumulative in effect—has reshaped the role of UV protection in skincare. No longer limited to traditional sun care, UV filters are now an essential component of everyday facial and skin formulations.
Our new-generation UV filter platform addresses this shift with photostable, EUcompliant solutions that deliver reliable UVA and UVB protection while meeting today’s expectations for safety and sensory performance. Characterised by low skin penetration and supported by a strong safety profile, these oil-soluble UV absorbers enable flexible formulation across a wide range of SPF levels.
Daily exposure to ultraviolet radiation—often overlooked but cumulative in effect—has reshaped the role of UV protection in skincare. No longer limited to traditional sun care, UV filters are now an essential component of everyday facial and skin formulations.
Our new-generation UV filter platform addresses this shift with photostable, EUcompliant solutions that deliver reliable UVA and UVB protection while meeting today’s expectations for safety and sensory performance. Characterised by low skin penetration and supported by a strong safety profile, these oil-soluble UV absorbers enable flexible formulation across a wide range of SPF levels.
Our new-generation UV filter platform addresses this shift with photostable, EUcompliant solutions that deliver reliable UVA and UVB protection while meeting today’s expectations for safety and sensory performance. Characterised by low skin penetration and supported by a strong safety profile, these oil-soluble UV absorbers enable flexible formulation across a wide range of SPF levels.
Our new-generation UV filter platform addresses this shift with photostable, EUcompliant solutions that deliver reliable UVA and UVB protection while meeting today’s expectations for safety and sensory performance. Characterised by low skin penetration and supported by a strong safety profile, these oil-soluble UV absorbers enable flexible formulation across a wide range of SPF levels.
Complemented by synergistic emollients, the range demonstrates that effective UV protection does not have to compromise skin feel. Formulations achieve a velvety, nongreasy touch, a matte appearance, and in vitro SPF 50+ performance—proving that protection, aesthetics, and performance can coexist.
Our new-generation UV filter platform addresses this shift with photostable, EUcompliant solutions that deliver reliable UVA and UVB protection while meeting today’s expectations for safety and sensory performance. Characterised by low skin penetration and supported by a strong safety profile, these oil-soluble UV absorbers enable flexible formulation across a wide range of SPF levels.
Complemented by synergistic emollients, the range demonstrates that effective UV protection does not have to compromise skin feel. Formulations achieve a velvety, nongreasy touch, a matte appearance, and in vitro SPF 50+ performance—proving that protection, aesthetics, and performance can coexist.
Complemented by synergistic emollients, the range demonstrates that effective UV protection does not have to compromise skin feel. Formulations achieve a velvety, nongreasy touch, a matte appearance, and in vitro SPF 50+ performance—proving that protection, aesthetics, and performance can coexist.
Complemented by synergistic emollients, the range demonstrates that effective UV protection does not have to compromise skin feel. Formulations achieve a velvety, nongreasy touch, a matte appearance, and in vitro SPF 50+ performance—proving that protection, aesthetics, and performance can coexist.
Designed to support both daily skincare and high-SPF sun care, this platform empowers formulators to create products aligned with evolving consumer awareness and modern formulation demands.
Complemented by synergistic emollients, the range demonstrates that effective UV protection does not have to compromise skin feel. Formulations achieve a velvety, nongreasy touch, a matte appearance, and in vitro SPF 50+ performance—proving that protection, aesthetics, and performance can coexist.
Designed to support both daily skincare and high-SPF sun care, this platform empowers formulators to create products aligned with evolving consumer awareness and modern formulation demands.
Designed to support both daily skincare and high-SPF sun care, this platform empowers formulators to create products aligned with evolving consumer awareness and modern formulation demands.
Designed to support both daily skincare and high-SPF sun care, this platform empowers formulators to create products aligned with evolving consumer awareness and modern formulation demands.
Designed to support both daily skincare and high-SPF sun care, this platform empowers formulators to create products aligned with evolving consumer awareness and modern formulation demands.
Enhanced sun protection solutions
dsm-firmenich breaks new ground in broadspectrum sun protection with advanced PARSOL® technology.
As global skin cancer rates continue to rise and consumer expectations for high-performance, elegant sunscreens intensify, innovation in UV filter technology has never been more critical. dsm-firmenich, a global leader in science-based personal care solutions, is at the forefront of this transformation with its PARSOL® portfolio, most notably with PARSOL® Max and PARSOL® Shield.
Together, these two UV filters represent a new benchmark in broad-spectrum
protection, formulation flexibility, sensory excellence and regulatory progress. Furthermore, PARSOL® Shield now poised to become the first new FDA-approved sunscreen filter in the United States in over 25 years.
MAXIMUM UV PROTECTION TO BLUELIGHT DEFENSE
PARSOL® Max (INCI: Methylene BisBenzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, USAN: Bisoctrizole ) is a photostable, broad-spectrum UV filter designed to deliver exceptional coverage across UVB, UVA II, and UVA I, extending into the high-energy visible (bluelight) range.
Key attributes include:
• Dual absorption peaks at ~305nm and ~360nm, ensuring continuous UVB/UVA protection
• High molecular weight (659g/ mol), contributing to an excellent safety profile
• Photostability, maintaining
performance even under prolonged UV exposure
• Ready-to-use aqueous dispersion, enabling ease of formulation
• Outstanding compatibility with organic filters, inorganic filters (including TiO₂ and Z n O), and modern sunscreen chassis.
FUNCTION AND PERFORMANCE
PARSOL® Max allows to upgrade the SPF category without increasing the oil load and enhance UVA-PF values at relatively low use levels. In formulation studies, the addition of just 3% to 5% PARSOL® Max enabled:
• SPF boosts from 20 to 30 and 30 to 50
• Significant UVA-PF and PPD improvements, supporting PA++++ claims
• Closure of the UVA coverage gap required by modern global regulations.
Beyond UV protection, PARSOL® Max offers meaningful blue-light protection, both outdoor and indoor, which is an important benefit as consumers are increasingly exposed to sources of blue light.
While PARSOL® Max exemplifies global innovation, PARSOL® Shield represents a historic regulatory breakthrough
images : gettyimages
PARSOL® Max offers the following consumer and formulation benefits:
• Minimal to no white cast across diverse skin tones
• Excellent sensory performance: fast absorption, dry touch, matte finish
• Proven formulation stability across temperatures and pH ranges
• Ideal for face care, daily wear sunscreens, and hybrid skincare-UV products.
The broad-spectrum UV filter is widely approved at up to 10% (active) in major
global markets, reinforcing its role as a globally trusted UV technology.
SUN PROTECTION REDEFINED
While PARSOL® Max exemplifies global innovation, PARSOL® Shield represents a historic regulatory breakthrough for the United States.
On 16 December, dsm-firmenich applauded the US Food and Drug Administration’s proposal to include PARSOL® Shield, at a maximum concentration of 6%, as an
PARSOL® Shield: US regulatory breakthrough, elegant broadspectrum protection, and innovation catalyst
approved active ingredient in OTC sunscreens.
If finalised, PARSOL® Shield would be:
• Recognised as GRASE (generally recognised as safe and effective)
• Approved for adults and children aged six months and older
• The first new sunscreen filter introduced in the US in over 26 years.
As the OMOR sponsor, dsm-firmenich will also benefit from 18 months of market exclusivity upon final approval.
Together, PARSOL® Max and PARSOL® Shield form a powerful, future-ready UV protection strategy. These UV filters are available in South Africa from Chempure. •
Chempure – chempure.co.za
dsm-firmenich – www.dsm-firmenich.com
Broad Spectrum
PARSOL® Max [MBBT] From max in UV to blue light.
ORGANIC UV-FILTERS Ti02
PARSOL® MCX [OMC] The efficient UV-B filter with excellent solubilizing properties.
PARSOL® Shield [BEMT] Ultra-broad shield in UV.
INORGANIC UV-FILTERS
PARSOL® TX [Titanium dioxide] The inorganic UV filter with best formulation compatibility.
PARSOL® ZX [Zinc oxide] Mineral fusion for broad protection.
PARSOL® HMS [Homosalate] The perfect solubilizer with SPFenhancing properties.
UVA
PARSOL® SLX [polysilicone-15] The first polymeric UV-B filter for superior skin feel and hair color protection.
PARSOL® 1789 [Avobenzone] The original global standard for UVA protection.
PARSOL® DHHB UVA protection compatible with all UVB filters.
Salicylate] SPF enhancing UV-B filter with good solubilizing properties.
PARSOL® 340 [Octocrylene] Liquid UV-B filter and the most effective photostabilizer for Parsol® 1789.
PARSOL® HS [PBSA] A water soluble UV-B filter for dry-touch high SPF formulations.
A smart solution for modern product protection challenges
Daniela Peters, Dr Yorck Mohr, Dr Sebastian Herkersdorf and Petra Biehl of Evonik Personal Care
provide insight into natural intelligence as a solution to modern antimicrobial challenges.
Imagine a formulator at the lab bench, tasked with creating a clean beauty product that’s microbiome-friendly, fragrance-free and claims ingredients naturally sourced – without compromising shelf life or performance. This balancing act defines today’s cosmetic development. Protecting a cosmetic product from spoilage is no longer just about fighting microbes; it’s about purpose. Consumers demand transparency, safety and sustainability, while formulators need solutions that deliver efficacy without trade-offs. Enter dermosoft® GPT MB (INCI: Glyceryl Sesquipelargonate), Evonik’s latest innovation: a single-molecule antimicrobial booster combining multifunctionality, natural origin and skin compatibility.
SUSTAINABILITY MEETS PERFORMANCE
First, its odour-masking capability reduces unpleasant smells from raw materials, which is especially valuable in minimalist or fragrance-free formulations. Sensory panel tests have shown that dermosoft® GPT MB can reduce malodour perception by up to 50%, depending on the concentration – an effect that improves consumer acceptance without the need for additional masking agents.
Next, its co-emulsifying properties accelerate emulsion formation and contribute to a more uniform droplet size. This not only enhances texture and appearance but also supports energyefficient processing. Formulations with dermosoft® GPT MB demonstrate faster homogenisation and improved stability, reducing complexity in production.
Built on the well-accepted glyceryl ester structure, dermosoft® GPT MB unlocks the potential of new plant-based molecules. Derived from 100% renewable sources – largely from non-tropical regions – it is COSMOS-approved, vegan, crueltyfree and halal-certified. Its sustainability profile includes low environmental impact, biodegradability and support for circularity through renewable feedstocks.
YOUR SECRET AGENT BEHIND THE SCENES
Product protection is no longer a single-purpose function – it’s a multidimensional opportunity to enhance formulation performance. dermosoft® GPT MB exemplifies this shift by offering cosmetic benefits that go far beyond microbial protection.
Moreover, dermosoft® GPT MB builds up final emulsion viscosity quickly and maintains it over time – unlike other antimicrobial wetting agents. This accelerated viscosity development gives formulators an early preview of the product’s final texture, helping
dermosoft® GPT MB unlocks the potential of new plant-based molecules
to reduce the number of test iterations and ultimately speeding up the overall development process.
Finally, its pigment wetting and dispersion capabilities minimise pigment agglomeration and can enhance colour intensity. This allows for more economical pigment use – ideal for modern, eco-conscious decorative cosmetics or tinted skincare.
SKIN AND MICROBIOME COMPATIBILITY
With growing awareness of the skin microbiome, formulators need ingredients
Microscopic imaging of two O/W emulsions – one formulated without a co-emulsifier (vehicle) and the other with dermosoft® GPT MB. Compared to the vehicle, the latter shows a more uniform droplet size distribution image
that protect without disrupting.
In vivo patch tests on 50 volunteers – including 28% with sensitive skin – showed no visible irritation or erythema, even at a 1% use level. This positions dermosoft® GPT MB as a gentle yet effective option for sensitive skin formulations, baby care and products designed for compromised skin barriers. In a microbiome study, dermosoft® GPT MB was shown to respect microbial diversity. Unlike traditional preservatives that can significantly reduce the total number of skin bacteria, dermosoft® GPT MB had only a marginal impact on microbial load and did not alter the Shannon Index, a key measure of microbiome diversity.
This makes it especially well-suited for formulations featuring microbiomemodulating actives – such as deodorants. It allows formulators to achieve a wellprotected product, without interfering with the intended microbiome effect – a decisive advantage in today’s skin healthfocused market.
MORE THAN AN ANTIMICROBIAL
What sets dermosoft® GPT MB apart is its multifunctionality, as it also excels in its antimicrobial boosting effect. The efficacy spans Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria, yeast, and – when paired with fungicidal additives – it boosts efficacy also against mould. dermosoft® GPT MB works across O/W and W/O emulsions, cationic systems, surfactant-based and aqueous formulations, within a pH range of 4.0 to 7.0.
Perfect partners include natural-based organic acids for various types of emulsions or surfactant systems. For formulating at higher pH levels, aromatic alcohols or other wetting
agents are a great combination to complete the full spectrum efficacy.
A SMART CHOICE FOR CONSCIOUS FORMULATIONS
dermosoft® GPT MB is more than a booster – it’s a formulation enhancer, a microbiome ally and sustainability advocate. For brands committed to clean beauty and eco-conscious values, it offers a reliable, multifunctional solution without compromise. Have we sparked your interest? •
Evonik Care Solutions –jacques.strydom@evonik.com
Challenge test diagrams of two different O/W emulsions at two different pH levels. Together with fungicidal partner, dermosoft® GPT MB offers antimicrobial protection over a wide pH range
The term ‘inactive ingredients’ has long been a misnomer in pharmaceutical formulation. Far from being passive bystanders, excipients are the unsung heroes of drug development, playing pivotal roles in ensuring stability, performance, safety and patient acceptability of dosage forms. For South African pharmaceutical manufacturers navigating an increasingly complex regulatory environment, understanding excipient functionality has never been more crucial.
THE SCIENCE BEHIND EXCIPIENT SELECTION
Excipients are therapeutically inactive ingredients intentionally added to drug formulations to aid manufacturing and enhance drug product performance¹. Each functional category serves specific purposes that directly impact the final product’s quality and efficacy.
Diluents and fillers provide bulk for accurate dosing whilst facilitating processing. Common examples include lactose monohydrate and microcrystalline cellulose (MCC), with newer innovations like calcium phosphate microcapsules offering enhanced drug delivery capabilities through their hollow internal structures.²
Binders impart cohesive properties essential for tablet integrity. Povidone (PVP), hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) and starch paste are widely used, though formulation scientists must carefully balance binding strength – excessive binding can lead to poor disintegration, whilst insufficient binding causes friability issues.³
Understanding excipients: Beyond the ‘inactive’ label
Excipients are critical components that shape drug performance, manufacturing success and patient outcomes in the South African pharmaceutical landscape. Inspired by a LinkedIn post by formulation development trainee, Eddy Kipsigei, this article explores excipients as the ‘unsung heroes of drug development’. By
Disintegrants enable rapid tablet breakdown in physiological media through swelling, wicking and deformation mechanisms. Croscarmellose sodium and sodium starch glycolate are preferred choices for immediate-release formulations.⁴
Lubricants reduce friction during compression and prevent sticking, with magnesium stearate being the gold standard. However, concentration optimisation is critical – excess lubricant can cause capping and dissolution problems.⁵
Glidants improve powder flowability, directly impacting weight uniformity and content consistency. Colloidal silicon dioxide (Aerosil) remains the most widely used option for addressing flow-related manufacturing challenges.⁶
Co-processed excipients are gaining traction
TABLET DEFECTS UNDER THE SPOTLIGHT
Manufacturing defects often trace back to excipient selection and concentration issues. Recent research confirms that formulation problems are primary causes of tablet defects.⁷ For example:
• Capping and lamination frequently result from insufficient binder levels or excessive lubricant concentrations.
• Sticking and picking typically indicate inadequate lubrication or high moisture content.
Abby Vorster
• Poor disintegration suggests insufficient disintegrant or over-lubrication.
• Weight variation points to powder flow issues requiring glidant optimisation. These defects translate directly into manufacturing downtime, yield losses and regulatory compliance issues – concerns particularly relevant for South African manufacturers competing in both domestic and export markets.⁸
EVOLVING REGULATORY FRAMEWORK
The South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA) regulates excipients under the Medicines and Related Substances Act, requiring adherence to Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) aligned with international standards.⁹ Manufacturers, importers and exporters must obtain SAHPRA licensing, emphasising quality assurance principles that mirror WHO and ICH guidelines.¹⁰ This regulatory alignment positions South African manufacturers favourably for international markets, provided they maintain robust excipient qualification and quality control programmes. SAHPRA’s emphasis on GMP compliance extends beyond active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) to encompass all formulation components.¹¹
INNOVATION ON THE HORIZON
The excipient landscape is evolving rapidly, with 2024 marking significant advancement in multifunctional materials. The US Pharmacopeia issued a public policy position advocating for the facilitated introduction
of novel excipients, recognising their critical role in addressing complex APIs and new therapeutic modalities.¹²
Co-processed excipients are gaining traction, offering combined functionalities that simplify manufacturing whilst enhancing performance. These innovations reduce formulation complexity and manufacturing steps, providing competitive advantages for forward-thinking manufacturers.¹³
QUALITY CONTROL AS AN ANALYTICAL FOUNDATION
ICH Q2(R2) guidelines establish international harmonisation for analytical validation, directly impacting excipient quality control protocols.¹⁴ Critical quality attributes include particle size distribution, moisture content, chemical purity and microbiological quality – all requiring robust analytical methods and specifications.¹⁵
For South African manufacturers, implementing these international standards ensures product acceptance in regulated markets whilst maintaining domestic compliance. The investment in
analytical capability often determines manufacturing success in today’s competitive environment.
PRACTICAL IMPLICATIONS FOR INDUSTRY
Understanding excipient functionality enables better formulation decisions, reducing development time and manufacturing risks. Key considerations include:
• Selecting excipients based on critical quality attributes rather than cost alone
• Implementing risk-based approaches to excipient qualification
• Maintaining analytical capabilities for excipient characterisation
The evolution towards multifunctional and novel excipients represents significant opportunities for South African pharmaceutical manufacturers. Enhanced formulation capabilities, combined with regulatory alignment through SAHPRA, position the industry for growth in domestic and international markets.
Excipients are no longer merely ‘inactive’ ingredients – they're sophisticated pharmaceutical materials that define product performance. For industry professionals, recognising this reality is the first step towards formulation excellence and manufacturing success. •
REFERENCES:
1. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Review on Excipients Used in Tablet Formulation (2024)
11. SAHPRA Good Manufacturing Practice Guidelines (2024)
12. USP Global Policy Position on Novel Excipients (2024)
13. Pharmaceutical Technology, Co-processed Excipient Development (2024)
14. ICH Q2(R2) Analytical Validation Guidelines (2023)
15. WHO Pharmaceutical Quality Control Guidelines (2024)
Source materials & equipment for: • Personal and cosmetics
Bridging the GMP gap with precision down-packing
Brenntag's new cleanroom facility addresses a critical need for down-packing in the pharmaceutical supply chain.
The pharmaceutical industry faces an ongoing challenge of how to efficiently break down bulk raw materials into precise, GMP-compliant quantities without compromising quality or traceability. For many South African manufacturers, this has meant either investing heavily in their own cleanroom infrastructure or accepting the risks and delays of offshore processing.
As a leading supplier to pharma manufacturers, Brenntag has established a sophisticated contract down-packing operation. Its purpose-built facility in the Czech Republic forms part of a strategic response to the growing complexity of pharmaceutical supply chains and the increasing regulatory scrutiny facing the industry.
THE PRECISION CHALLENGE
The traditional approach of large-scale purchasing and in-house down-packing works well for high-volume products in any pharma manufacturing setting. But when you're dealing with clinical trial materials, specialist excipients, or custom formulations, the economics and risk profile change.
This is where Brenntag's down-packing facility enters the equation. Operating from an ISO 9001:2015 certified Class D GMP qualified cleanroom environment, the company has essentially industrialised the down-packing process, applying the same validation rigour typically reserved for active pharmaceutical manufacturing.
What sets this operation apart isn't just the cleanroom environment – it's the comprehensive approach to documentation and traceability. Every container that leaves the facility carries complete supply chain traceability and compliance paperwork, from the original manufacturer through to the final repack. For regulatory affairs teams grappling with increasingly complex supply chain documentation requirements, this level of transparency is invaluable.
The flexibility of the facility is noteworthy. Standard offerings include containers
Capabilities and technical overview
Product categories
Packaging sizes
Container Formats
Excipients, fine chemicals, critical raw materials and custom blends
• From 5Kg, 10Kg, 20Kg and 25Kg as standard
• Custom options available on request
• Secondary packaging: HDPE drums, PE drums, stainless steel drums
• Primary packaging: PE liners, Tyvek liners
• Custom packaging: options available on request
Environmental Conditions ISO Class 8 cleanroom (Class D)
Labelling
Custom labelling per customer or regulatory requirements
Documentation Batch records, CoA and full product information package and supply chain transparency
Additional testing
Customer specific testing including bioburden and endotoxin testing available
ranging from 5kg to 25kg, but the system can handle custom requirements, including the breakdown of 1 000kg bulk containers into smaller, processspecific quantities. For clinical trial managers dealing with precise dosing requirements or R&D teams working with limited quantities of experimental excipients, this scalability addresses a genuine pain point.
Customer benefits include:
• Flexible formats to meet exact process needs
• Quality assured process to minimise contamination risk
• Reduced in-house burden of weighing and packaging
• Suitable for regulatory submissions and GMP audits
• Rapid turnaround and scalable capacity.
FLEXIBLE AND BESPOKE SOLUTIONS
As pharmaceutical manufacturing in South Africa continues to mature, services like precision down-packing reflect a broader trend towards specialisation and outsourcing of non-core functions. The success of this
model will likely depend on factors beyond technical capability – such as responsiveness and turnaround times – coupled with the ability to handle emergency requirements. For pharmaceutical QA managers, procurement teams and manufacturing planners, a GMP down-packing facility like Brenntag’s represents one less supply chain complexity to manage internally. •
More than you think
From specialty ingredients distribution to GMP manufacturing and services. Our new high-quality Pharma GMP Hub is designed to meet your evolving needs, providing reliable support throughout the development and manufacturing process.
■ GMP Bio Buffers: Custom manufacturing to meet your exact formulation needs
■ GMP Powder Down-Packing: Precision repackaging to ensure product integrity
■ Sampling: GMP-compliant sampling and storage services to ensure material integrity, traceability and regulatory compliance
Our Pharma GMP Hub is more than just a manufacturing facility, it is a trusted extension of your team, helping you achieve faster, more reliable and fully compliant results. Additional GMP and non-GMP products and services are available upon request.
Speak with our team to discover what’s possible.
Business Manager Pharma South Africa
Phone: +27 82 604 4413
E-Mail: natalie.macgregor@brenntag.com
Advanced conditioning for high-performance hair care
With the AminoSensyl™ Series, AECI
Specialty
Chemicals offers South African manufacturers a natural, quat-free conditioning system that delivers exceptional performance on textured hair.
In today’s competitive personal care market, formulators are under increasing pressure to deliver visible performance, sensory excellence and formulation flexibility while catering to diverse hair types and consumer demand. Nowhere is this more evident than in the South African hair care landscape, where textured, curly and coily hair types dominate, and expectations for conditioning, manageability and hair health are high.
The AminoSensyl™ Series, available in South Africa from AECI Specialty Chemicals, was developed to address the growing demand for high-performance, natural and sustainable conditioning systems for hair care products.
FORMULATING WITH THE CONDITIONING SERIES
Not only are AminoSensyl™ ingredients gentle on hair and non-irritating to skin and eyes, they are also gentle on the environment.
Designed with green chemistry, these non-aqua toxic and readily biodegradable breakthrough systems combine sustainability with performance so you can feel confident designing your next generation of hair and skincare products.
IDEAL FOR AFRICAN HAIR
African hair is uniquely diverse, with curl patterns and fibre structures that are often more prone to dryness, tangling, and breakage. Frequent chemical processing, heat styling, and protective styles further increase the need for conditioning systems that deliver slip, softness, and manageability without weighing the hair down.
AminoSensyl™ Ultra MB is particularly well suited to these needs. Its targeted conditioning technology helps smooth the hair surface and improve detangling, reducing mechanical stress during combing and styling. At the same time, it supports natural volume and curl definition, making it ideal for relaxed, natural, braided, and heat-styled hair. In this article we are going to explore the benefits of AminoSensyl™ Ultra MB in detail.
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Brassicyl Valinate Esylate
100% natural BTAC replacement
Say goodbye to heavy, lifeless hair and hello to smooth, defined and strengthened locks. This 100% natural and COSMOS approved ingredient uses cationic amino lipid technology to provide deep moisturisation and create luxurious textures. It is designed for all hair types, including curly hair.
Brassica Alcohol (and) Brassicyl Valinate Esylate
100% natural quatfree hair care system
Transform your hair care formulations with AminoSensyl™ HC, the COSMOS approved, non-quat complete conditioning system with cationic amino lipid technology. Say farewell to frizz and welcome to silky, smooth defined locks. This system provides moisturisation and rich textures, creating weightless conditioning.
Upgrade your hair care formulations with AminoSensyl™ SC's cutting-edge amino lipid technology. This self-emulsifying system creates gentle, nourishing formulations with deep moisturising and powdery soft feel. It is PEG-free and creates lamellar gel networks to stabilise oil loads up to 40%.
For brands formulating for African and textured hair consumers, AminoSensyl™ Ultra MB enables the creation of high-performance, culturally relevant hair care products that respect hair integrity while delivering the sensorial benefits consumers expect.
CHEMICAL ARCHITECTURE AND MECHANISM OF ACTION
AminoSensyl™ Ultra MB is composed of Cetearyl Alcohol and Brassicyl Valinate Esylate, forming a lipid-based conditioning system that mimics the performance of conventional cationic surfactants while avoiding permanent quaternary ammonium structures.
Table 1: AminoSensyl™ Series
The key functional innovation lies in its cationic amino-lipid structure, delivering several benefits, such as:
• Electrostatic attraction to the negatively charged sites on damaged hair fibres
• Substantive deposition without excessive surface saturation
• Controlled alignment of the cuticle, improving fibre smoothness and cohesion
• Curl definition for all hair types.
AminoSensyl™ Ultra MB is also:
• Non-toxic to aquatic life
• Non-irritating to skin or eyes
• Readily biodegradable
• Designed with green chemistry. Unlike traditional quats, which rely on strong ionic bonding and can lead to build-up over time, AminoSensyl™ Ultra MB achieves conditioning through a balanced interaction between lipid deposition and aminobased charge density. This results in effective conditioning with a lighter, more natural after-feel.
AminoSensyl™ Ultra MB forms lamellar liquid crystal networks in the aqueous phase. These lamellar liquid crystals emulsify and stabilise oil phases as well as provide bulk viscosity and yield value. Therefore, polymers are not required to build viscosity or yield value. Viscosity is built according to the use level of AminoSensyl™ Ultra MB. Viscosity may vary depending on emollients, fragrances or other ingredients in the formulation.
A SUSTAINABLE HAIR CARE SOLUTION
AminoSensyl™ Ultra MB enables formulators to develop highperformance, quat-free hair care products that meet modern sustainability and performance expectations. Its amino-lipid conditioning mechanism delivers targeted deposition, improved fibre alignment, and superior sensory properties, making it particularly suitable for textured and damaged hair applications.•
Table 2: Natural hydrating conditioner with AminoSensyl™ Ultra MB
Raising the bar for quality control
TracePack is advancing quality control in pharma and cosmetics manufacturing with cutting-edge machine-vision technology, which ensures compliance, reduces waste and protects brand integrity.
As packaging formats grow more intricate and production speeds accelerate, manufacturers across South Africa face increasing pressure to deliver flawless products backed by reliable traceability.
TracePack provides machine vision, inspection and traceability solutions designed to address these challenges with confidence. Its latest machine vision platform, the InSight 3800 series, combines artificial intelligence with next-generation imaging performance. With processing speeds two to six times faster and the ability to inspect up to 2 500 units per minute, it detects micro-defects, such as hairline cracks, label skewing and fill-level inconsistencies, before they escalate into failures.
DEEP
LEARNING FOR COMPLEX SURFACES
Cosmetics and beauty packaging is becoming more sophisticated. Reflective foils, textured finishes, curved bottles and embossed branding present challenges that traditional systems struggle with. ViDi Deep Learning mirrors human visual reasoning while delivering machine-level consistency. It detects scratches, bubbles, colour variations, misprints and texture anomalies, which can impact brand image, especially in the premium beauty market.
ERROR-PROOF LABELLING, SERIALISATION AND TRACEABILITY
Label accuracy is critical to patient safety, regulatory compliance and brand integrity.
TracePack’s OCR engines and DataMan barcode readers provide exceptional reliability when reading batch numbers, expiry dates, barcodes and serialised identifiers – even on curved, glossy, or low - contrast surfaces. The company’s serialisation and data-capture technologies empower manufacturers with complete traceability from raw material intake to finished-goods distribution. Automated scanning, verification and data logging generate a continuous audit trail for SAHPRA, GMP and international serialisation standards.
This allows manufacturers to:
• Instantly trace defects back to source
• Automate compliance documentation
• Strengthen anti-counterfeiting measures
• Improve transparency and recall execution
• Build consumer trust through verifiable product authenticity.
TracePack integrates these capabilities into existing production systems, offering South African manufacturers a seamless path to true, end-to-end traceability.
PACKAGING INTEGRITY FROM START TO FINISH
A product's packaging is often a customer’s first impression – and misaligned labels, flawed seals, or inconsistent fill levels can quickly erode brand trust. TracePack’s packaging-inspection systems detect issues with tamper-evident seals, cap closures, fill levels, missing components and secondary
packaging quality. These systems are especially valuable in cosmetics and OTC pharmaceuticals, where product appearance significantly influences purchasing decisions.
STERILE PHARMACEUTICAL ENVIRONMENTS
For sterile production – like vaccines, injectables, ampoules and biologics – precision is paramount. TracePack offers specialised inspection tools that can identify microfractures in glass, particulate contamination, sealing errors, and labelling defects.
WHY MANUFACTURERS TRUST TRACEPACK
As South Africa’s pharma and cosmetics sectors modernise, industry experts continue to highlight the need for cutting-edge inspection technologies. TracePack provides local expertise, seamless system integration and ongoing support, ensuring manufacturers can fully leverage world-leading quality control and inspection solutions. By integrating these advanced inspection and traceability systems, manufacturers achieve greater accuracy, reduced waste, stronger compliance and enhanced consumer trust. In line with industry demand, TracePack is committed to delivering end-to - end inspection, detection and traceability solutions. This empowers manufacturers to produce safer, higher- quality pharmaceutical and cosmetic products, every time. •
Supported in South Africa by The Techniques Group, SEA Vision is driven by its experience to constantly refine its solutions, like the a-eye clearance and A-Eye Lipstick systems. The supplier does this by integrating AI Algorithms by ARGO Vision, which is an AI startup SEA Vision acquired in 2021.
By merging expertise, SEA Vision is enhancing the accuracy and performance of visual quality control solutions and modernising line clearance processes with cutting-edge AI techniques.
STREAMLINE PRODUCTION WORKFLOWS
a-eye clearance is one of the most innovative results of this joint development. This AI-based technology automates line clearance procedures, ensuring that machines and work areas are completely free of any leftover materials from previous batches. By replacing manual, paper-based processes with digital workflows, it speeds up changeovers, increases safety, improves OEE and supports more sustainable and efficient production.
In the cosmetics sector, SEA Vision’s AIpowered a-eye lipstick demonstrates how neural algorithms can transform quality control. By detecting issues in shape, surface, colour, or embossing, the system
Vision inspection and traceability systems have been part of SEA Vision’s DNA since the beginning
Streamline production with AI‑driven solutions
Reliable inspection technologies are crucial for preventing costly recalls and production errors. This is why SEA Vision’s inspection technologies for pharmaceuticals and cosmetics are built on proprietary algorithms developed entirely in-house and perform a wide range of quality checks on both products and packaging.
reduces rework and prevents defective products from reaching the market, ultimately protecting brand reputation.
TRACEABILITY FOR PHARMA COMPLIANCE
Besides its AI-based solutions portfolio, vision inspection and traceability systems have been part of SEA Vision’s DNA since the beginning. The company provides an integrated portfolio, which includes advanced vision software for product and packaging quality control, track & trace and serialisation systems to help manufacturers remain compliant while boosting efficiency across pharmaceutical production operations.
SEA Vision’s solutions are designed to grow over time and integrate seamlessly with other platforms,
ensuring long-term scalability, compliance and high performance.
A TRUSTED SUPPLIER
The Techniques Group – comprising Automation Techniques, Detection Techniques, Strato International, and Laser Techniques – is a trusted supplier of quality equipment and machinery, providing proven solutions to the pharmaceutical, personal care, food, beverage, textile, and allied industries across Sub-Saharan Africa. As the exclusive South African supplier of SEA Vision’s solutions, the Techniques Group has successfully implemented advanced vision systems in leading pharmaceutical companies nationwide. •
SEA Vision – seavision-group.com Techniques Group – www.techniquesgroup.co.za
a-eye lipstick demonstrates how neural algorithms can transform quality control
The skin you're in and the marketing within
The winner of this year’s Coschem cosmetic science course/P&C Review essay prize is Leani van der Walt. To acknowledge Leani’s achievement, her essay on the topic of neurocosmetics at the intersection of science, sensation and sales, is published in this student focus. Leani also receives a prize sponsored by P&C Review.
The skin, often overlooked in its intricacy, is a vital organ endowed with neuroreceptors and complex communication pathways intimately aligned with the nervous system (Slominski and Wortsman, 2000). Sensory experiences at the skin’s surface influence how it behaves and responds, mediated by neural mechanisms and the perception of stimuli. In this way, what is felt externally can shape internal physiological reactions, linking touch, emotion and dermal response in a subtle but potent interplay. As science advances at an unprecedented pace, it compels a paradigm shift in the approach to skincare and cosmetics, prompting skin to be reconceived as not merely a passive canvas, nor solely a matter of aesthetics or hydration, but as a dynamic organ engaging with the body’s most extensive sensory interface (Vidal Yucha et al., 2019).
Cedric Rimella, a pioneer in neurocosmetics (co-founder and CEO of I.D. Swiss Botanicals), stated that: “the skin and brain share the same embryonic origin, making the epidermis an extension of the nervous system” (Marsh, 2024). His words underscore just how deeply meshed the skin is with our inner world, urging the consideration of the skin as not just an unreceptive shield, but as a communicative, perceptive organ –a kind of peripheral brain. Yet, as the line between science and consumerism continues to blur, it is worth questioning whether neurocosmetic products truly harness neurobiological potential, or whether such claims are merely conjecture, largely fuelled by marketing rhetoric. This piece critically evaluates the field of neurocosmetics, examining whether it stands on robust scientific foundations or merely capitalises on the allure of neuroscience to appeal to increasingly wellness-conscious consumers.
2025). Younger generations, like Millennials and Generation Z, are leading this shift, by favouring ethical, transparent and scientifically proven brands (Ghalamghash and Ghalamghash, 2025). S
Social media plays a pivotal role in disseminating neurocosmetic trends, amplifying the pressure on brands to personalise their offerings (Ghalamghash and Ghalamghash, 2025). It is necessary to explore the interplay between the skin and the nervous system, and to examine whether certain topically applied substances can indeed modulate neural responses in a manner consistent with neurocosmetic claims.
A CLOSER LOOK AT NEUROCOSMETICS
With heightened public awareness of how psychological stress can accelerate skin ageing and inflammation, demand is growing for products that target stress-related skin conditions at their neurological and biochemical roots (Ghalamghash and Ghalamghash,
Neurocosmetics have been in use since the ’90s and are designed to target the neuroimmuno-cutaneous system at the epidermal level, through active ingredients that interact with neural receptors (Misery et al., 2025). A wide variety of cosmetic formulations are already available on the market, each designed with distinct functions and ingredients that combine traditional practices with modern innovations to address and improve skin imperfections (Gubitosa et al., 2021). These formulations aim to go beyond superficial enhancement, targeting the neural mechanisms underpinning skin health (Gubitosa et al., 2021). Yet, the term often generates confusion, sometimes mistakenly associated solely with neuroscience or the pleasurable, mood-boosting sensations derived from cosmetic use, rather than being recognised as a scientific approach to holistic care (Gubitosa et al., 2021). However, this perspective overlooks the broader scope of the nervous system. The human nervous system is an immensely integrated communication network that governs not only emo tional responses but also the ability to detect, interpret, and respond to sensory stimuli from the environment. It plays a critical role in how we perceive temperature, pressure, pain and other tactile sensations (Silverthorn et al., 2016). This is where neurocosmetics come in, to modulate sensory perception and physiological responses such as calming sensations, enhanced circulation and reduced inflammation, ultimately with the goal to ameliorate skin function and address conditions such as redness, tissue repair, inflammation, sensitive skin, stress-induced reactivity,
ageing and pigmentation irregularities (Gubitosa et al., 2021, Misery et al., 2025, Rajagopal et al., 2025).
In conditions such as seborrhoeic dermatitis or rosacea, neurochemical mediators and neuronal hyperactivation produce symptoms like vasodilation and discomfort (Gubitosa et al., 2021). A concept first introduced by Joseph Klauder in 1925 postulates that psychosomatic connections may originate in early developmental experiences, while also signifying that psychotherapeutic approaches could perhaps even assist in managing certain skin disorders (Gubitosa et al., 2021). Therefore, if the skin acts as a psychological ‘seismograph’, registering emotional disturbances through somatic responses, then chronic conditions like dermatitis, psoriasis and allergic reactions may reflect deeper psychobiological processes (Gubitosa et al., 2021).
SUBSTANTIATION IS CRUCIAL
The skin functions as more than a passive barrier – it is an active, highly integrated neuro-immuno-endocrine organ involved in sensory perception, immune regulation, environmental defence and systemic homeostasis (Vidal Yucha et al., 2019, Slominski et al., 2012). This homeostasis is achieved through complex bidirectional signalling involving neuropeptides, cytokines, growth factors and neurotransmitters, where peripheral nerves communicate with keratinocytes, melanocytes, immune cells and vascular components. This allows skin to detect and respond to mechanical, thermal, nociceptive and inflammatory stimuli (Vidal Yucha et al., 2019, Slominski et al., 2012). These interactions form the cornerstone of a wide range of cutaneous functions and at times serve as precursors to certain conditions, including stress-induced inflammation, autoimmune responses, UV-induced immunosuppression and pigmentary dysregulation (Vidal Yucha et al., 2019). At the core of this network lies a skin-based analogue of the hypothalamic pituitary adrenal axis, wherein dermal cells synthesise stress mediators (Slominski and Wortsman, 2000). These molecules act locally through autocrine and paracrine mechanisms, facilitated by the co-expression of their corresponding receptors within the same or neighbouring skin cells (Ziegler et al., 2007, Khalil et al., 2024). Given this, consumerfacing messages may tend to reduce complex molecular pathways to simplified narratives, like products that claim to “release endorphins” or “mimic the body’s innate stress response” without presenting empirical evidence that topically applied formulations can engage with these pathways in a meaningful way (Slominski and Wortsman, 2000). Nevertheless, the potential therapeutic applications of neurocosmetics remain compelling, particularly in addressing stressresponsive skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, pigmentation disorders and premature ageing (Misery et al., 2025).
In addition to hormonal signalling, the epidermis also closely engages with peripheral nerves, with both the skin and nerves producing substances that support each other’s function (Choi and Di Nardo, 2018). Sensory neurons in the dermis release neuropeptides such as substance P and calcitonin gene-related peptide (CGRP), which stimulate mast cells to release vasoactive amines, thereby promoting the infiltration of immune cells, including neutrophils and T lymphocytes (Choi and Di Nardo, 2018). Activation of MrgprX1 leads to mast cell degranulation, facilitating communication with sensory nerves and skin cells, thereby promoting neurogenic inflammation (Choi and Di Nardo, 2018). Receptors such as Mrgprs and TRPV4 are key determinants in the development of skin disorders like rosacea (Choi and Di Nardo, 2018). Additionally, neuropeptides including substance P, CGRP, somatostatin, β-endorphin, VIP and PACAP can
modulate immune responses, particularly in the pathogenesis of psoriasis (Choi and Di Nardo, 2018). Emerging research is beginning to unveil the complex interchange between cutaneous neurons and skin cells, highlighting their role in inflammation and the onset of some skin diseases (Choi and Di Nardo, 2018).
INGREDIENTS ON THE RADAR
Building on these insights, neurocosmetics utilise neuroactive compounds to engage the skin-brain axis to induce shifts in skin behaviour, offering benefits beyond surface-level aesthetics (Gubitosa et al., 2021). For instance, acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) mimics the action of botulinum toxin by inhibiting neurotransmitter release at neuromuscular junctions, resulting in reduced wrinkle formation (Knezevic et al., 2025).
Cannabidiol (CBD) modulates the endocannabinoid system to diminish inflammation and stress-induced skin responses (Knezevic et al., 2025, Haykal et al., 2025). Furthermore, cannabinoids can relieve pruritus (itch) and modulate mood perception through cutaneous CB1 and CB2 receptors (Haykal et al., 2025).
Niacinamide can enhance the skin barrier by stimulating ceramide synthesis and reducing transepidermal water loss (Knezevic et al., 2025, Haykal et al., 2025). -Melanocyte-Stimulating Hormone ( -MSH) acts on melanocortin receptors to regulate pigmentation and inflammatory pathways, contributing to remarkable reductions in erythema and hyperpigmentation (Knezevic et al., 2025, Slominski and Wortsman, 2000). Additionally, antagonists of substance P mitigate neurogenic inflammation, making them particularly effective in managing sensitive or reactive skin (Knezevic et al., 2025).
Compounds like copper tripeptide (GHK-Cu) activate regenerative signalling pathways that support collagen production and tissue repair (Knezevic et al., 2025). Whereas gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) and adaptogenic plant extracts like Rhodiola rosea and Ashwagandha have also been shown to alter neurochemical pathways, reducing inflammation, muscle tension and stress-related skin reactivity (Haykal et al., 2025). These mechanisms underscore that neurocosmetics may represent more than marketing hype, constituting a scientific approach that engages the skin-brain axis via neuroactive compounds to produce measurable, clinically proved improvements in skin physiology and health.
Social media plays a pivotal role in disseminating neurocosmetic trends
KEY BENEFICIAL EFFECTS ON SKIN
In neurocosmetics, acute controlled neurogenic inflammation can paradoxically yield beneficial skin effects such as plumping, radiance, and rejuvenation. Ingredients like substance P and capsaicin stimulate sensory nerve endings, activating neuropeptides like CGRP and histamine to induce vasodilation and increase capillary permeability (Rajagopal et al., 2025, Choi and Di Nardo, 2018). This fluid shift then leads to mild interstitial swelling, giving the skin a temporarily fuller, more voluminous appearance (Rajagopal et al., 2025). Enhanced microcirculation further supports improved nutrient delivery, oxygenation and removal of metabolic waste, resulting in a visibly healthier complexion. Over time, neuropeptide-induced fibroblast
activation supports the production of extracellular matrix components such as collagen and elastin, contributing to the maintenance of skin structure and resilience (Rajagopal et al., 2025). The effect may be described as similar to the post-treatment glow experienced after microneedling or superficial chemical peels. Crucially, it is not necessarily the inflammation itself that is inherently beneficial, but the carefully modulated regenerative response it triggers when administered in a meticulous manner. At regulated concentrations, substance P may promote skin regeneration, collagen synthesis and wound healing, making it a promising ingredient. However, due to the pro-inflammatory nature of substance P, excessive usage may lead to erythema and irritation or exacerbate conditions such as hyperpigmentation or acne. Therefore, using substance P in cosmetic products requires careful formulation and dosing, with encapsulation techniques being progressively explored to enhance stability and enable targeted, sustained release.
The cooling or soothing effect observed in neurocosmetic formulations is predominantly facilitated by the activation of coldsensitive transient receptor potential (TRP) channels, such as TRPM8, through compounds like menthol or eucalyptol (de la Peña et al., 2005). Additionally, numerous neurocosmetic ingredients modulate sensory nerve activity by inhibiting or desensitising nociceptors, which may cause an analgesic effect and can help to alleviate discomfort, itching or burning (Fischer et al., 2010). Complementing these actions, anti-inflammatory neuropeptides such as α -MSH or β -endorphin analogues work to suppress overactive inflammatory signalling pathways, helping soothe and calm sensitive or irritated skin.
TARGETING SPECIFIC PATHWAYS
As aforementioned, chronic psychological and environmental stress play a prominent role in skin ageing and dysfunction, primarily through cortisol via the HPA axis (Gubitosa et al., 2021). If prolonged, cortisol exposure can impair epidermal homeostasis by increasing transepidermal water loss, degrading collagen and hyaluronic acid, while reducing elasticity and disrupting skin barrier repair (Gubitosa et al., 2021). In conjunction, stress-induced overactivation of 11β -hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1 (11β -HSD1) in keratinocytes and fibroblasts lead to augmented signs of skin ageing, including inflammation, wrinkles and dryness (Gubitosa et al., 2021). Based on the neurohormonal aspects, various neurocosmetic innovations aim to target these pathways (Gubitosa et al., 2021).
DSM’s patented Bel-Even® inhibits 11β-HSD1, which restores cortisol balance and improves elasticity and dermal density (Gubitosa et al., 2021). Similarly, Givaudan’s Neurophroline™, a derivative of Tephrosia purpurea, has shown to reduce cortisol production by 70% and increase β-endorphin release by 163% in vitro (Gubitosa et al., 2021).
Brands like NUXE (Nirvanesque) and Lancôme (Hydra Zen with NeuroCalm™) also incorporate botanical neuroactives to counteract stress-induced skin damage (Gubitosa et al., 2021). These advances support the growing consensus that targeting neuroendocrine stress responses through topical application may not only lessen visible signs of stress-related skin dysfunction but also contribute to long-term skin resilience and wellbeing.
EXPERT INSIGHTS ON NEUROCOSMETICS
Recent insights from Haykal et al. (2025) further exemplify that neurocosmetics are not simply a marketing construct but a scientifically validated approach to skincare that targets the bidirectional skin-brain axis. Congruently, Rajagopal et al. (2025) concluded that neurocosmetics can significantly improve skin
ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
Leani van der Walt is a young scientist with early-career industry experience. She is a master’s student and laboratory analyst at a pharmaceutical consulting testing laboratory, where she works in a regulated environment focused on analytical precision, quality control and scientific integrity.
conditions by targeting neural pathways. Notably, clinical findings reported a 27% reduction in wrinkle depth and a 45% decrease in redness by neuroactive skincare formulations, highlighting the palpable benefits that could be offered (Rajagopal et al., 2025, Gubitosa et al., 2021). However, the continued development of neurocosmetics must be steered by clear safety guidelines, welldefined regulatory frameworks and cost-effective delivery systems. The importance of incorporating AI-based personalisation and exploiting gut-brain-skin interactions to fully comprehend the therapeutic and preventative potential of neurocosmetic innovations were also acknowledged. The integration of AI could advance the field by enabling emotion-responsive skincare routines tailored to individual mood states, detected through facial expression analysis, skin conductance and circadian rhythm monitoring, marking a paradigm shift from static cosmetic routines to dynamic, psychophysiologically informed skincare (Haykal et al., 2025).
A PROMISING FUTURE ROOTED IN SCIENCE
Noteworthy, the placebo effect further establishes the significant influence that the brain’s perception and expectation can have on physiological outcomes, including those related to the skin (Knezevic et al., 2025). Even in the absence of pharmacologically active ingredients, belief in the efficacy of a treatment triggers biological responses via neural pathways involving dopamine, endorphins and the endocannabinoid system (Knezevic et al., 2025). In the context of neurocosmetics, this mind-skin connection suggests that perceived effectiveness alone, through sensory cues like texture, scent, or application rituals, can activate central mechanisms that reduce inflammation, improve barrier function and enhance skin appearance. Therefore, even when a neurocosmetic product’s benefit is partly or wholly attributable to placebo responses, the outcomes remain valid and meaningful, reinforcing the concept that the nervous system exerts a powerful influence on skin health and cosmetic efficacy. However, neurocosmetics appear to be supported by ample biochemical, neuroendocrine and psychodermatologic data, validating its therapeutic potential and redefining skin health as a dynamic interplay between mind, skin and environment. Inevitably, it appears that the neurocosmetic market is poised for sustained expansion as modern consumers no longer settle for products that merely address superficial concerns, instead they are seeking multi-functional formulations that guarantee balance between sensation, mental calm, emotional cues and physical skin health (Ghalamghash and Ghalamghash, 2025).
Transparency in marketing should be encouraged, with brands prioritising and continuing to clearly communicate the unique underlying mechanisms and scientific basis of their claims, thereby fostering trust and informed decision-making among consumers. •
References available on request
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