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34 Association News Paper
PAMSA
Local innovation leads the way
Our April edition arrives at an exciting time for South Africa's personal care and cosmetic industries, with developments that are truly reshaping these sectors.
I'm particularly excited about two groundbreaking institutional developments. UCT and Services SETA have broken ground on the African Skin Health Institute (ARISE) – a dedicated research hub for African skin and hair health. Meanwhile, Sefako Makgatho University is partnering with the Technology Innovation Agency to launch the LIPSHTIC cluster, designed to commercialise publicly funded skin-health IP and support SMMEs. Together, these initiatives represent a significant step forward in developing local expertise that addresses unique market needs.
The business landscape also continues to evolve, with Manuchar's
planned acquisition of CJP Chemicals strengthening local supply chains, while Croda's impressive 15% growth in fragrances demonstrates the robust potential of the industry on a global scale.
This edition places special focus on two critical market segments. Our comprehensive ethnic hair care coverage explores conditioning, scalp care, and high-oil shampoo systems – areas where innovation is desperately needed. We've also dedicated substantial space to baby and sensitive skin care, featuring microbiome-friendly mild cleansing solutions that represent the future of gentle formulation.
Supporting these developments are exciting new ingredients like Keraduo™ and innovative water-soluble plant oils, alongside cutting-edge K-Beauty trends that continue to influence global markets. Our packaging section covers sustainable solutions and secondary packaging automation, while PAMSA reveals that paper recycling in South Africa is up by 3.3%.
Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review’s content offers practical insights for your business. I hope you find this edition both informative and inspiring.
Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk
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Inclusive sun protection from DermaFix
Local brand, DermaFix has introduced its latest innovation, the DermaFix Tinted SPF Dark. This tinted sunscreen is designed specifically for Fitzpatrick IV to VI skin tones.
DermaFix Tinted SPF Dark addresses the common issue of grey or ashy casts on deeper skin tones while providing essential sun protection.
The new tinted SPF product offers broadspectrum SPF40 protection against UVA, UVB and HEV/blue light. It doubles as a light foundation and complexion enhancer, making it ideal for daily wear, post-procedure use, and achieving a ‘nomakeup’ look.
The formula of this tinted sunscreen is dermatologically developed to be gentle on sensitive and pigmentation-prone skin, helping to prevent post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. It is also gamechanger in inclusive, medical-grade sun care for darker skin tones.
DermaFix Tinted SPF Dark offers the following benefits:
• Broad-spectrum protection: Shields against UVA, UVB, and HEV/blue light.
• Tinted formula: Avoids grey or ashy casts on deeper skin tones.
• Skin-friendly: Suitable for sensitive and pigmentationprone skin.
• Multi-use: Acts as a light foundation and complexion enhancer.
The DermaFix Tinted SPF Dark is available in a 50mℓ tube. It can be purchased in South Africa from dermatologists, skincare professionals and medispas. It is also available online at dermafix.co.za.
With this launch, DermaFix continues to lead in clinical skincare innovation. This product fills a significant gap in sun care for deeper skin tones, offering both protection and enhancement.
ARISE: Groundbreaking initiative by UCT and Services SETA
In South Africa, the University of Cape Town (UCT) and the Services Sector Education and Training Authority (Services SETA) have officially broken ground on the African Skin Health Institute (ARISE). Held on 13 February, this historic event marks a significant step forward in addressing skin and hair health challenges specific to African populations.
ARISE, housed within UCT’s Division of Dermatology, is a purposebuilt facility dedicated to research, training and skills development. The institute will focus on African skin and hair health, cosmetic product safety testing and occupational skin research. This initiative is set to position South Africa as a leader in African-relevant dermatological research and training.
This initiative is set to position South Africa as a leader in African-relevant dermatological research and training
The African Skin Health Institute aims to expand student intake, offer short courses, and provide industry-facing services. Over 100 graduates have already benefited from its cosmetic formulation programme, which has established strong industry partnerships. The new facility will scale these efforts, creating opportunities for graduates and entrepreneurs while boosting African representation in product development.
Professor Nonhlanhla Khumalo, UCT’s project lead, emphasised the importance of ARISE in deepening research and fostering innovation. Services SETA Administrator Lehlogonolo Masoga highlighted the alignment of this project with the National Skills Development Plan 2030. This plan aims to produce job-creating, industry-ready talent.
South Africa’s Deputy Minister of Higher Education and Training, Dr Mimmy Gondwe was present at the sod-turning ceremony. The event symbolises ARISE’s transition from a pilot programme to a national training and research platform. The initiative also underscores the commitment to addressing African skin and hair health challenges. Furthermore, it will create a hub for innovation and skills development.
African Skin Health Institute sod-turning event. Pictured (from left): Prof Mashiko Setshedi, Prof Lionel Green-Thompson, Lehlogonolo Masoga, Dr Mimmy Gondwe, Prof Mosa Moshabela, Prof Nonhlanhla Khumalo and Prof Ardeshir Bayat (Image: UCT)
Manuchar to acquire CJP Chemicals in South Africa
This transaction will be beneficial to both Manuchar and CJP
Manuchar, a leading distributor of chemicals in highgrowth markets – headquartered in Antwerp, Belgium –has reached an agreement to acquire CJP Chemicals, one of South Africa’s most established chemical distributors. This strategic acquisition marks an important step in Manuchar’s ambition to strengthen its footprint in South Africa and expand its global chemical distribution platform across high-growth regions.
Founded in 1986, CJP Chemicals is a well-recognised distributor with a strong heritage in the South African market. The company offers a broad range of industrial and speciality chemicals, serving key sectors such as personal care and pharmaceuticals, food & beverages, lubricants & energy, and industrial manufacturing. With operations in all major industrial hubs, including Johannesburg, Durban, Cape Town and Gqeberha, CJP Chemicals employs around 170 people and generates in excess of $100 million in revenue each year.
The company is also highly valued for its technical expertise, strong customer relationships and reliable supply chain network.
From its headquarters in Antwerp, Manuchar operates a local distribution network across North & Latin America, Africa, Europe, the Middle East, and Asia. The company employs 3 000 people worldwide, handles over 4.6 million metric tons of goods, and generates approximately $2.6 billion in sales with operations in over 40 countries and 180 locations. Manuchar has been active in South Africa since 2003 and today covers the entire country with offices in Durban, Johannesburg and Cape Town, employing around 100 people locally.
The acquisition of CJP Chemicals aligns with Manuchar’s long-term growth strategy to broaden its product
portfolio, deepen its regional coverage, and reinforce its leadership in serving customers across high-growth markets.
The closing of the agreement between the shareholders of Manuchar and CJP Chemicals is expected in Q3 2026, subject to antitrust approval.
Laurent Pasqualini, CEO of Manuchar Group, says: “This acquisition marks a significant milestone in our strategy to strengthen our chemical distribution platform across key high-growth markets. By combining CJP Chemicals’ strong legacy in South Africa with Manuchar’s global reach, we will offer a truly comprehensive product portfolio – from core commodities to high value specialty chemicals. Together, we are stepping up as a top leading chemical distribution player in Africa – particularly in South Africa – delivering broader solutions, enhanced supply reliability, and the service excellence for which both companies are known.”
Karabo Radebe, MD of CJP Chemicals, comments: “Becoming part of the Manuchar Group marks an exciting new phase for CJP Chemicals. Its global reach, strong supply chain capabilities, and extensive product portfolio will reinforce our ability to serve customers with even greater reliability and depth. While we continue to operate with the same commitment and expertise, joining Manuchar provides us with the scale and backing needed to accelerate our growth in the South African market.”
Greg Hirschowitz, CEO of ChemFin, comments: “As the majority shareholder in CJP Chemicals, ChemFin is delighted to have found a global strategic owner for CJP Chemicals. This transaction will be beneficial to both Manuchar and CJP and I have no doubt the combined business will bring several additional opportunities to enhance the offering and service to their customers in the South African market.”
15% sales growth for Croda’s F&F business
The Fragrance and Flavours (F&F) business of Croda International, encompassing Iberchem, Parfex and Scentium, announced a milestone performance for 2025 with 15% sales growth at constant currency, reaching €380 million. Despite a complex global landscape, the business exceeded financial targets with positive contributions across all three brands.
This year’s success was driven by disciplined execution of the business’ strategic roadmap and continued commercial momentum. Its new sales record represents consistent double-digit growth, underscoring the resilience of a model rooted in deep customer intimacy and portfolio strength. This uplift was supported by a balanced mix of organic expansion with a loyal customer base and the successful capture of ‘white space’ opportunities, diversifying the division’s geographic footprint.
Sandra Breene, president of Consumer Care at Croda, comments: “I am delighted with the achievements of our F&F business. By delivering consistent year-on-year growth and leveraging meaningful synergies across the Croda Group, it continues to be a key pillar of our Consumer Care business.”
José Balibrea, managing director of Iberchem and VP of Fragrances & Flavours at Croda, adds: “We are proud of the solid results delivered over the year, particularly given the demanding market backdrop and high prioryear comparables. This year marks our fifth anniversary since joining Croda, during which time we have doubled annual sales. This performance reflects the strength of the Iberchem business model, one built on agility, continuous innovation and deep customer intimacy. These attributes enable us to consistently create value for our partners.”
In the next year, the division is set to deliver continued growth, supported by a series of strategic initiatives including:
• the upcoming commissioning of a new site in China, which will establish an extended and new comprehensive hub for R&D and production following Iberchem’s first full R&D and manufacturing site in 2002
• the expansion of Parfex and Iberchem’s production facilities at its headquarters to further strengthen capabilities.
Other recent investments are also generating positive results, with strong performance from Barcelona’s new Creative Centre, Parfex’s R&D centre and the expanded production facilities at Scentium’s headquarters.
Sabinsa publishes research compendium on amla
NutriScience Publishers has released a new book titled Amla: Super-Fruit with Superior Science. This compendium delves into the chemistry, biochemistry, and biology of amla (Phyllanthus emblica) in relation to human health.
As a specialised publisher of technical books on nutritional science, NutriScience Publishers was founded by the late Dr Muhammed Majeed in conjunction with Sabinsa.
Revered for centuries in the ancient medical system of Ayurveda, amla is now capturing the attention of the broader scientific community through modern research and meticulous standardisation. This volume brings together insights from leading experts in Ayurveda, botany, ethnobotany, phytochemistry, pharmacognosy and modern nutrition science to deliver a rigorous yet holistic understanding of one of nature’s most versatile botanicals. The book explores the deep-rooted history, multipurpose applications and future potential of amla in health and wellness.
The exceptional antioxidant potency of amla – coupled with its ability to regulate sugar levels, promote endothelial health and
support liver function – has earned it a reputation as a longevity-enhancing superfruit.
The compendium challenges earlier assumptions that vitamin C is amla’s primary active constituent, instead delving into the intricate details of gallic acid esters and other phytochemicals responsible for the fruit’s benefits. A central theme throughout is the importance of standardisation. The authors underscore how meticulous quality control of botanical ingredients is essential to translating traditional wisdom into reliable, evidence-based health solutions.
Amla: Super-Fruit with Superior Science was edited by Dr Anju Majeed, chairperson of the Sami-Sabinsa Group, and is credited to Dr Muhammed Majeed and the late Dr Kalyanam Nagabhushanam.
“My father dedicated his life to unlocking the scientific potential of nature’s most powerful botanicals. This compendium on amla is a testament to that mission, bringing rigorous modern research to a fruit that has been a trusted Ayurvedic remedy for millennia,” says Shaheen Majeed, global CEO and managing director of Sabinsa. “We hope it serves as a useful resource for product formulators, and an inspiration for the next generation of researchers.”
Registration opens for in-cosmetics Korea 2026
Taking place from 1 to 3 July at the COEX in Seoul, South Korea, in-cosmetics Korea brings together global personal care innovators, ingredient suppliers, cosmetic scientists and R&D experts at the heart of one of the world’s most dynamic beauty markets.
Despite multiple waves of K-Beauty trends over the years, Korea’s impact on the global beauty industry shows no sign of slowing down. Cosmetics exports reached just over $10 billion in 2024 and continued to grow into 2025, with mid-year data showing Korea overtaking the US as the second-largest global cosmetics exporter behind France. This sustained growth underlines the continued global appetite for K-Beauty innovation.
Reflecting this growth, in-cosmetics Korea 2026 will showcase leading global players across the exhibition floor, alongside curated ingredient highlights and market trends. With nearly 50 new exhibitors confirmed, attendees can expect an even wider selection of ingredients and solutions. Designed to support discovery, networking and direct sourcing, the event will spotlight three key zones: the K-Beauty Zone, the Inner Beauty Zone and the Innovation Zone.
The K-Beauty Zone will return with a new theme ‘age management,’ reflecting the growing demand for products that support
Korea continues to set the pace for global beauty innovation
long-term skin health. Exhibitors will showcase ingredients focused on repair, protection, barrier support, tone-evening and soothing, all of which are key priorities for those looking to deliver visible results and lasting benefits.
EXPANSION OF THE INNER BEAUTY ZONE
The Inner Beauty Zone returns following its strong debut in 2025. Visitor engagement was high in its first year, with 57% of attendees actively exploring the zone, reflecting growing global interest in wellness-led beauty, education and innovation.
This year will also see the launch of ‘Inner Beauty Talks’, a series of expert sessions designed to build credibility and share insights into this fast-evolving category. Delivered in partnership with The Good Pill Co™, the programme will connect attendees with key innovators and thought leaders shaping the inner beauty space.
INNOVATION ZONE IN THE SPOTLIGHT
The Innovation Zone will showcase the latest ingredients to be launched with in the last eight months in both active and functional categories. All featured ingredients will be eligible for the Best Ingredient Award, presented at the incosmetics Korea Awards Ceremony on 1 July.
This year, there will be three dedicated awards: the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award, the K-Beauty Standout Award, and
the K-Innovative Ingredient Award, which is new for 2026. This new award will recognise the highest-scoring ingredient developed by a Korean manufacturer within the zone, celebrating Korean innovation.
The judging panel includes senior figures from across the global beauty ecosystem, with representation from leading organisations such as COSMAX, Kolmar Korea, and Amorepacific.
K-BEAUTY MOMENTUM CONTINUES
Sarah Gibson, exhibition director of in-cosmetics Korea, comments: “Korea continues to set the pace for global beauty innovation, and we’re seeing this influence grow year after year. In-cosmetics Korea 2026 will reflect this. What makes the event particularly valuable is its focus on solving real industry challenges. Whether that’s sourcing highperformance ingredients, navigating complex regulatory environments, or understanding emerging trends like inner beauty. Through our dedicated zones and expert sessions, we’re giving attendees the tools and confidence to innovate and compete globally.”
in-cosmetics Korea will take place in Hall C and The Platz in the COEX in Seoul, South Korea from 1 to 3 July. The event is co-located with InterCHARM, providing a 360-degree beauty journey from personal care ingredients to finished products. •
For more info on the trade show, click here: www.in-cosmetics.com/korea
2026 SUBSCRIPTION FORM
JUNE
Propak China 15 to 17 June
Shanghai, China www.propakchina.com/en
Cosmoprof CBE ASEAN 25 to 27 June
Bangkok, Thailand www.cosmoprofcbeasean.com
No:
(Pty) Ltd Nedbank Seapoint 1069321540
Transform your cosmetic concepts into marketwinning products
Expert support for SA’s textured hair market
In South Africa, braids, twists and natural styling are more than beauty trends – they are part of everyday hair care routines. For consumers with coily and curly hair, maintaining healthy hair requires products that deliver deep conditioning, scalp comfort and long-lasting performance.
South Africa represents one of the world’s largest markets for textured hair care. Nearly 60% of the population has tightly coiled or kinky hair textures, creating strong demand for products specifically designed for afro-textured hair and protective styling routines. At the same time, products developed for ethnic hair care have been growing faster than the overall hair care market in recent years. Styles such as braids and twists help protect natural hair and support its growth, but they can also create challenges. Scalp dryness, itchiness and product buildup are common concerns, particularly when styles are worn for several weeks.
As a result, brands are developing solutions that combine deep conditioning, scalp comfort and reliable styling performance. The market is also seeing strong growth in local brands that highlight natural ingredients and culturally relevant beauty routines.
Consumers want products that help soothe the scalp
DEEP CONDITIONING AND DETANGLING
Due to its curl structure, afro-textured hair is naturally more prone to dryness and tangling. Detangling and manageability are therefore key priorities. Conditioners, leave-in treatments and braid maintenance products designed for textured hair typically rely on rich conditioning systems that help smooth the hair cuticle and reduce breakage during combing. Multifunctional leave-in products are becoming popular, combining conditioning, detangling and moisture retention in a single formulation.
Protarol™ AFS from CISME is a conditioning base for conditioners and masks to improve softness and detangling. Ingredients such as Cisme Naterol HM can further enhance conditioning performance and sensory feel, while conditioning polymers like Guar Quaternary Trimethyl Ammonium Salts and Polyquaternium-7 help improve slip, reduce static and enhance combability.
SCALP CARE GAINS IMPORTANCE
Protective styles are often worn for extended periods, making scalp care key in ethnic hair care.
Consumers want products that help soothe the scalp, reduce dryness and support healthy hair growth without leaving residue. This has led
to increased demand for lightweight product formats like scalp serums, scalp mists and braid sprays.
This trend reflects the broader “skinification” of hair care or holistic hair care, where scalp treatments are developed using concepts similar to facial skincare. Ingredients that support scalp hydration and hair strength, such as Panthenol (Provitamin B5), are commonly used in leave-on scalp treatments designed to improve comfort during protective styling.
STYLING AND TREATMENT SOLUTIONS
While natural hair care routines are growing in popularity, styling and treatment systems remain an important part of the market.
Products designed for hair straightening, curl restructuring and depilatory applications require ingredients that deliver reliable performance while maintaining hair integrity. These systems rely on specialised functional materials that enable controlled modification of the hair structure.
Thio chemical solutions from Bruno Bock, widely used in hair restructuring systems, allow formulators to modify disulfide bonds in the hair fibre, enabling both straightening and curl formation while supporting controlled performance in professional and consumer formulations.
LOCAL CUSTOMER SUPPORT
South Africa’s ethnic hair care market continues to evolve as consumers seek products that combine conditioning performance, scalp comfort and styling versatility. Product formats such as leave-in conditioners, braid sprays and scalp serums are expected to continue gaining importance alongside protective styling and natural hair care routines.
The ingredients mentioned in this article are available from Brenntag South Africa. The local team and Innovation & Application experts in Johannesburg are on hand to support customers with formulation development and technical guidance. •
Brenntag South Africa –www.brenntag.com/en-za
Turning hair care trends into formulations
Innovation & Application Center
Brenntag Beauty & Personal Care supplies specialty ingredients and supports customers in developing high-performance formulations for textured hair.
Our Innovation & Application Center in Johannesburg provides formulation expertise and technical support for:
Hair care and scalp treatments
Skin care formulations
Sun care solutions
Contact Brenntag South Africa (Pty) Ltd.
Discover more
Gentle 2-in-1 cleansing for textured hair
Evonik’s Uta Kortemeier explores the science behind creating effective cleansing products specifically for the unique challenges of textured hair care. Discover how innovative structured surfactant technology enables formulators to create high-oil shampoo creams that deliver superior conditioning while maintaining cleansing efficacy.
Ethnic hair care encompasses specialised practices designed for individuals with textured hair types, including curly, coily and highly porous structures. These hair phenotypes exhibit distinct morphological and biochemical characteristics compared to straight hair, necessitating targeted interventions to maintain structural integrity and hydration.
CHARACTERISTICS AND CHALLENGES
Curly and coily hair demonstrates a non-uniform diameter and elliptical crosssection, contributing to uneven sebum distribution and increased susceptibility to dryness. Elevated porosity in textured hair facilitates rapid water absorption. Ethnic hair shows a strong mechanical fragility, the torsional stress inherent in spiral configurations predisposes fibres to breakage under tensile load.
The reduced lipid migration along the shaft results in diminished moisture retention. Using chemical treatments like relaxers and oxidative dyes, and thermal straightening, induces cuticular disruption and cortical protein denaturation.
CARE PRINCIPLES AND EMERGING TRENDS
• Moisture optimisation – Formulations include a high level of emollients/oils and humectants (such as glycerine) to enhance water-binding capacity.
• Protein reinforcement – Hydrolysed keratin and amino acid complexes restore tensile strengt h and reduce fracture incidence.
• Biomimetic formulations – Products incorporating ceramides and lipid analogs to replicate natural hair barrier properties.
HIGH OIL CLEANSING AS A SOLUTION
Structured surfactant systems are a good cleansing option, which takes these care principles into account. The system also allows an oil content of 50%. The high oil level, combined with the low level of mild sulfate-free surfactants, minimises lipid stripping.
Table 1 shows the composition of a shampoo cream including an efficient biodegradable esterquat as a conditioning agent (VARISOF T ® EQ 100). It is enriched with an amino acid derivative (TEG O ® Cosmo C 100) and a ceramide blend (Hairmimic s ® Boost). Despite the high oil level, the shampoo cream provides sufficient foaming.
A structured surfactant system with very similar composition to the high oil shampoo cream was tested in the US by a panel of 20 consumers including African-American consumers. The panellists rated the foaming as adequate, while the application and conditioning properties were rated very positively. The curly hair type volunteers provided very positive feedback on the high oil formulation.
The additional remarks from the panellists confirm the positive performance, especially for curly/coily hair: • “Hair does not feel dry and damaged as usual”.
Table 1: High oil shampoo cream formulation
High oil shampoo cream (KM 12/2), viscosity: 10.000 mPas (Brookfield)
• “This shampoo was fine if you´re not going to straighten your hair, it was definitely less frizzy than usual”.
• “Hair felt very moisturised, initially felt heavy, was impressed by the after effect for styling”.
• “I love this product. Easy to comb when my hair was wet. My hair dried naturally and still stay smooth and soft”.
• “I liked the detangling aspect, hair was more manageable and smoother”.
• “I like this product. It made my hair smooth and soft and my hair was manageable. I didn’t use any sprays or leave-in conditioners and my hair felt moisturised without it”.
A GOOD CHOICE FOR CLEANSING
Structured surfactant systems with high oil levels are a good option for cleansing ethnic hair.
They help overcome the reduced lipid migration by a pronounced refatting effect. Consumers with coily hair are impressed by the sensory benefits, the addition of hair strengthening ingredients like creatine and ceramides provides further benefits. •
Evonik Care Solutions
– jacques.strydom@evonik.com
Curly hair type volunteers
20 test persons in the US (7 African American)
Test shampoo: UL 5761/67
Innovation cluster targets local skincare solutions
SMU and TIA forge a strategic partnership to advance local skin health innovations. The collaboration exemplifies how universities, industry and government can unite to transform research into real-world solutions.
In a groundbreaking move for South Africa’s innovation ecosystem, Sefako Makgatho Health Sciences University (SMU) recently partnered with the Technology Innovation Agency (TIA) to establish the Local Intellectual Property-Based Skin Health and Personal Care Technology Innovation Cluster (LIPSHTIC).
The formal funding agreement was signed by professor Tandi Matsha-Erasmus, vicechancellor of SMU, and Ismail Abdoola, acting CEO of TIA, during a ceremonial event at the vice-chancellor’s boardroom.
The signing ceremony included SMU’s distinguished leadership professor Patrick Demana, dean of the School of Pharmacy; Mahlatholle Masha, acting chief financial officer; professor Matsha-Erasmus; professor Douglas Maleka, dean of the School of Health Care Sciences; and professor Sechene Stanley Gololo, deputy dean of the School of Science and Technology. Their presence highlighted SMU’s unwavering commitment to interdisciplinary excellence. The cluster will also be co-led by Dr Vuyisile Thibane from the Department of Biochemistry and Biotechnology and Dr Madan Poka from the Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, both providing critical technical guidance for the initiative.
INDUSTRY AND ACADEMIA WORKING TOGETHER
The cluster brings together a network of industry, research and academic partners. Industry contributors such as AMKA Products, Prime Product Manufacturing and Zuplex Botanicals will provide formulation expertise, product testing and market access.
Science councils like the CSIR, university departments such as the Photobiology Laboratory from SMU’s School of Pharmacy and tech stations such as InnoVenton at Nelson
The cluster will focus exclusively on publicly funded research in skin health and personal care applications
By Dimakatso Modise
Mandela University will support research, development and technology transfer efforts.
Anchored at SMU, LIPSHTIC will serve as a national platform designed to translate publicly funded intellectual property (IP) into safe, effective and commercially viable skin health and personal care products. By creating a collaborative space where knowledge, resources and expertise converge, the cluster aims to address pressing local health challenges while generating new opportunities.
FROM CONCEPT TO COMMERCIALISATION
Addressing a crucial gap in South Africa’s innovation landscape, the cluster will focus exclusively on publicly funded research in skin health and personal care applications. This includes cosmetic and dermatological formulations derived from indigenous plant extracts, essential oils and other locally relevant bioactive botanicals.
In its first phase, LIPSHTIC will develop approximately 25 priority IP assets identified from the September 2025 IP Call Survey Report. Each asset will undergo formulation refinement, optimisation and rigorous validation to ensure market readiness.
Key objectives include:
• advancing priority IP assets
• strengthening technology maturation and validation
• leveraging technical expertise for marketready products
• promoting inclusive growth by empowering SMMEs and local innovators. Licensing and technology transfer agreements with industry partners and SMMEs will facilitate the transition of IP from the lab to commercialisation while adhering to national and international safety and quality standards.
Deliverables include fully integrated IP assets, detailed technical dossiers, optimised prototypes, regulatory compliance documentation, and SMME capacity-building through training and mentorship. These efforts aim to create a sustainable innovation pipeline, strengthening South Africa’s skin health sector.
A NEW ERA FOR COLLABORATIVE INNOVATION
Emphasising the transformative potential of the cluster, professor Matsha-Erasmus says: “Through strategic partnerships like this, SMU is demonstrating how universities can act as catalysts for meaningful economic and societal impact, turning research into tangible solutions for our communities.”
Abdoola adds: “LIPSHTIC exemplifies TIA’s commitment to converting intellectual property into products that address real-world challenges. By collaborating with SMU and its partners, we are harnessing South Africa’s innovation potential.”
The establishment of LIPSHTIC signals a new era for collaborative innovation, where research, industry and community intersect to deliver solutions that improve health, grow the economy, and position South Africa as a global player in skin health and personal care technologies. •
The cluster brings together a network of industry, research and academic partners
The formal funding agreement was signed during a ceremonial event at the vice-chancellor’s boardroom
Novel fusion protein delivers dual-action care from root to tip
A new keratin-collagen fusion protein is making waves in hair care formulations with its comprehensive approach to strengthening follicles whilst protecting the hair shaft.
Keraduo™ is an innovative cosmetic active ingredient designed to improve hair health from the root to tip through a single, multifunctional molecule. It is a tandem fusion protein that combines two essential structural hair components: keratin and collagen.
Specifically, Keraduo™ fuses a biomimetic fragment of keratin 31, which reinforces and repairs the hair fibre, with a fragment of collagen XVII. This is a key protein involved in hair follicle cohesion and root anchorage. The dual mechanism allows Keraduo™ to strengthen the hair shaft while simultaneously improving follicular stability and longevity.
The active ingredient is produced using
keratin gene expression was measured by qPCR.
Ex vivo studies were performed on human hair tresses subjected to chemical, UV and thermal damage. A hair serum containing 1% Keraduo™ was applied to bleached tresses and performance was evaluated through combability measurements, expert anti-frizz assessment, cuticle porosity analysis and hair protein content quantification. Both straight Caucasian hair (type 1) and afro textured hair (type 4) were tested to confirm efficacy across different hair structures.
The in vivo clinical study involved 44 women aged 20 to 65 with fragile and damaged hair. Participants used a shampoo containing 2% Keraduo™ three times a week for 28 days.
DID YOU KNOW?
From root to tip, Keraduo™ fortifies follicles and fibres, tames frizz and reduces brittleness. It also boosts volume, softness and detangling for stronger, healthier more resilient hair.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Keraduo™ showed strong dual activity at the follicular and fibre levels. In vitro, it significantly increased collagen XVII expression in hair follicle cells (17%) and stimulated pro collagen I synthesis in fibroblasts (21%), supporting improved dermo follicular cohesion and stronger root anchorage. In parallel, Keraduo™ follicular keratinocytes’ proliferation (up to 38%),
fibre level. Keraduo™ improved to 55% after repeated use,
normal conditions and before UV damage or after heat exposure.
In UV exposed Caucasian hair, while in thermally damaged afro content was also
Keraduo™ improved combability by 39% after a single application and up to 55% after repeated use
increased, particularly in porous hair types, indicating effective keratin reinforcement.
Clinical results demonstrated clear consumer benefits. Hair shedding was reduced by 22% after 14 days, corresponding to approximately 1 400 fewer hairs lost after two weeks. Hair elasticity improved by around 2%, reflecting reduced fragility, and fibre keratin content increased by 5.6%. Professional evaluations showed increased hair volume in 90% of participants after four weeks, while 100% perceived immediate softness after the first application. Consumer self-assessments confirmed smoother, stronger, more manageable and less frizzy hair.
MODERN
ROOT-TO-TIP HAIR CARE ACTIVE
Available throughout Southern Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, Keraduo™ is a scientifically validated, root-to-tip hair care active that combines follicular anchorage and fibre repair in a single molecule.
By stimulating collagen XVII and reinforcing keratin production, it significantly reduces hair loss while improving strength, elasticity, softness and manageability. Its proven efficacy across in vitro, ex vivo and clinical studies makes Keraduo™ a powerful and innovative solution for modern, comprehensive hair care formulations. •
Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
Figure 1: Afro-textured hair type 4 hair follicle treated with heat (left), and heat and 1% Keraduo™
Figure 2: Photos and results of a volunteer at 0 days (left), 14 days (centre) and 28 days (right) Heat
Pea protein's molecular advantage
South African formulators are prioritising plant-based proteins as consumers demand transparency and sustainability credentials in their cosmetics and beauty products.
Hydrolysed pea protein has established itself as a superior multifunctional ingredient, which addresses skin barrier function and the structural integrity of hair.
Sourced from Pisum sativum , this bioactive peptide complex delivers measurable performance benefits whilst offering formulators a commercially viable alternative to animal-derived proteins and allergenic wheat or soy derivatives.
WHY PROTEINS MATTER IN BEAUTY
Proteins function as biomimetic actives in cosmetic formulations due to their molecular compatibility with skin and hair keratin structures. Their amphiphilic nature enables them to form a protective film whilst delivering targeted amino acids to compromised barrier sites. Contemporary protein-based actives demonstrate multiple mechanisms of action, including:
• Protecting the skin with a lightweight film
• Helping to retain moisture
• Smoothing and conditioning hair
• Supporting healthy-looking skin
• Improving overall skin and hair texture
• Stabilising foam in cleansing products. This versatility makes proteins one of the most valuable functional ingredients in personal care formulations.
WHAT IS PEA PROTEIN?
Cosmetic-grade pea protein is created through a process called enzymatic hydrolysis, which breaks the protein into smaller peptides. These peptides have different molecular sizes that allow them to work in several ways on the skin and hair. This dual action allows pea protein to deliver immediate and longer-lasting cosmetic benefits.
Because it is derived from a natural and sustainable plant source, pea protein also aligns perfectly with the growing demand for eco-conscious and ethically sourced beauty ingredients.
SKINCARE BENEFITS
Pea protein offers several skin-loving benefits that make it ideal for use in moisturisers, serums, and anti-ageing treatments.
• Deep hydration : Pea protein contains amino acids that attract and retain moisture, helping skin stay hydrated and soft.
• Improved skin elasticity : Regular use of products containing pea protein can help improve skin’s elasticity and firmness, giving the complexion a smoother and more youthful appearance.
• Barrier protection : By forming a light protective layer on the skin, pea protein helps support the natural skin barrier, reducing moisture loss and protecting skin from environmental stress.
• Smoother skin : Many formulations containing pea protein help reduce the appearance of fine lines and skin roughness, contributing to a more refined and even skin texture.
KEY FEATURES OF PEA PROTEIN
• 100% plant-derived Vegan friendly
Non-GMO
Gluten-free
Light colour and mild odour
Suitable for clean beauty formulations
ADVANTAGES FOR HAIR
Hair is primarily composed of keratin, a structural protein responsible for its strength and resilience. Interestingly, the amino acid profile of pea protein is similar to keratin, which allows it to interact effectively with the hair fibre.
This makes pea protein an excellent ingredient for repairing and strengthening hair. It helps to:
• strengthen weakened hair fibres
• Improve hair elasticity
• Enhance shine and smoothness
• Support hair repair
• Reduce breakage.
Pea protein is often used in conditioners
Pea protein is often used in conditioners, hair masks, shampoos and leave-in treatments designed for damaged or chemically treated hair.
DRIVING
FORMULATION INNOVATION
Hydrolysed pea protein represents a new generation of multifunctional plant-derived
cosmetic actives. The unique combination of benefits – such as hydration, barrier protection, restructuring and anti-ageing – makes it suitable for a wide range of skin and hair care applications.
With growing consumer demand for natural and sustainable beauty solutions, pea protein offers formulators an innovative ingredient that delivers in terms of performance and marketing appeal.
LOOKING AHEAD
As personal care continues to evolve, this year success lies in understanding the subtleties of consumers’ needs. Products need to connect on an emotional level through fragrance, textures, storytelling and authenticity. The category’s future is more personal than ever before – rooted in everyday rituals that provide a moment of connection, comfort and pleasure.
In a complex world, personal care offers something quietly powerful: a moment of calm, crafted just for you. •
Chempure – www.chempure.co.za
Water-soluble plant oils for clear cosmetics
In modern cosmetics, clarity is no longer an aesthetic preference. It has become a visual cue for purity, performance and transparency. From crystal-clear shampoos to micellar waters and lightweight sprays, consumers increasingly associate ‘see-through’ textures with high-quality, clean formulations.
By Elisa Altieri
Achieving ‘see-through’ clarity while delivering the benefits of natural oils has long remained a complex challenge for formulators.
Vegetable oils are essential for hair and skincare, providing lipids, vitamins and protective properties. Yet their intrinsic lipophilic nature makes them difficult to incorporate into water-based systems. The result is often cloudy formulations, unstable foams, or the need for aggressive solubilisers that can compromise mildness and sustainability. These limitations are increasingly misaligned with the expectations of today’s conscious consumer. Resplanta® offers a solution to this longstanding dilemma. Developed by Sharon Personal Care by Eternis, the innovative range of water-soluble esters allows formulators to integrate the full functionality of natural oils into transparent, water-based systems.
fraction of the oil is replaced with vegetablederived glycereth or polyglycerol structures. This transformation enables water solubility while preserving the intrinsic benefits of the original oil.
The result is a family of non-ionic amphiphilic ingredients that combine compatibility with aqueous systems and high cosmetic performance.
– while preserving the nourishing qualities of natural lipids.
DESIGNING PERFORMANCE THROUGH STRUCTURE
The structural tunability of the Resplanta® platform is one of its strengths. The performance of these ingredients is closely linked to the molecular chain length and degree of saturation.
The Resplanta® platform is structured into different technological lines to address diverse formulation needs. The standard range is based on non-ionic amphiphilic compounds derived from vegetable oils and ethoxylated glycerin. These ingredients offer reliable performance, ease of use and proven biodegradability, supporting formulation efficiency and sustainability objectives.
DISCOVER RESPLANTA® PHYTO
A TECHNOLOGICAL SHIFT IN OIL FUNCTIONALITY
Resplanta® represents a true evolution of vegetable oils. Through a controlled transesterification process, part of the glycerin
This range is developed specifically for natural and organic cosmetics. Built on polyglycerol chemistry, Resplanta® Phyto ingredients are COSMOS-compliant and designed to meet the growing demand for certified formulations.
They combine gentle performance with high functionality. As non-ionic amphiphilic compounds, Resplanta® Phyto provides effective cleansing while maintaining excellent skin compatibility. More importantly, these ingredients retain the full spectrum of beneficial components from the original oils, including essential fatty acids, vitamins and antioxidant fractions.
This makes them particularly suitable for formulations targeting sensitive skin, scalp care and mild cleansing systems, where balancing efficacy and gentleness is critical.
Within this range, Resplanta® Phyto-6 stands out. By combining vegetable oils with Polyglyceryl-6, it delivers a balanced approach to cleansing – effective yet mild
Shorter chains tend to deliver light, fastabsorbing textures, ideal for fresh and fluid formulations. Medium-chain structures provide a balance between hydration and sensorial richness, improving overall skin feel. Lastly, longer chains create a more protective effect, supporting the skin barrier and enhancing conditioning properties.
This flexibility allows formulators to precisely tailor product performance, from lightweight sprays to more nourishing treatments.
PRACTICAL
AND VERSATILE IN FORMULATION
Ease of use is a defining advantage of Resplanta ®. These ingredients can be incorporated at any stage of the formulation process and are not heat-sensitive, enabling hot and cold processing. For the Phyto range, gentle heating to around 35°C to 40°C is recommended to facilitate handling.
Typical use levels range from 0.5% to 10%, depending on the desired effect, with higher concentrations possible for specific textures. Optimal transparency is generally achieved at pH values above 6, particularly in systems without additional surfactants.
Available in South Africa from CJP Chemicals, Resplanta ® sets a new benchmark for water-based cosmetics. By transforming natural oils into water-compatible, highperformance ingredients, it removes the traditional barriers between clarity, efficacy, and sustainability. •
CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Sharon Personal Care by Eternis –www.sharonpc.com
Emollience meets water solubility with
Resplanta® Line
Gentle by design
As parents become increasingly aware of the unique physiological needs of babies’ skin, the personal care industry is being challenged to redefine what true gentleness means.
The definition of ‘mild’ in personal care is being redefined as consumer awareness evolves. Today’s consumers, particularly in the baby care and sensitive skin categories, are seeking products that not only cleanse effectively but also protect the skin barrier and respect its microbiome. At AECI Specialty Chemicals and Innospec, innovation in surfactant technology is enabling formulators to deliver on these expectations with next-generation ultra-mild cleansing systems.
A NEW STANDARD FOR MILDNESS
Baby skin is more delicate than adult skin with a thinner epidermis, higher transepidermal water loss and an evolving barrier function. Similarly, sensitive skin, whether inherent or
Traditional mildness claims are no longer enough. The focus has shifted toward long-term skin health, where maintaining the integrity of the skin microbiome plays a critical role.
MICROBIOME-CONSCIOUS FORMULATION
The skin microbiome is a complex ecosystem of microorganisms that contributes towards:
• barrier protection
• immune defence
• inflammation control.
Modern formulations must therefore be designed to cleanse without disruption, preserving microbial balance and diversity. This is especially important in baby care, where the microbiome is still developing, making ingredient selection a key differentiator.
BRING MILDNESS TO FORMULATIONS
Iselux® Ultra Mild represents a breakthrough in ultra-gentle cleansing technology, combining multiple surfactant types into a single,
BABY CARE & SENSITIVE SKIN
optimised system. It offers the following benefits:
• Exceptionally mild surfactant blend
• Sulfate-free cleansing system
• High naturally derived content (>94%)
• Suitable for baby care and sensitive skin applications
• Soft, creamy foam with excellent skin feel.
MICROBIOME-FRIENDLY CERTIFICATION
Iselux® Ultra Mild has been evaluated according to the MyMicrobiome Standard, demonstrating:
• Preservation of microbial balance
• Maintenance of microbiome diversity
• No negative impact on key skin microorganisms.
As it is certified microbiome-friendly, Iselux® Ultra Mild is ideal for formulations targeting the baby care category, sensitive skin and scalp care.
COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGES FOR FORMULATORS
By leveraging Iselux® Ultra Mild, brands are well-positioned to deliver premium
cleansing solutions that align with modern consumer expectations. Its proven mildness, supported by microbiomefriendly certification, enables credible and differentiated claims in an increasingly competitive market.
In addition, the high naturally derived content of Iselux® Ultra Mild supports the move toward mindful formulating, while allowing for streamlined, multifunctional product design. This balance of performance and positioning makes it an ideal choice for brands looking to strengthen their presence across baby care, dermatologically tested products, and sensitive skin ranges.
THE FUTURE IS ULTRA-MILD
The future of cleansing lies in systems that move beyond basic mildness toward complete skin compatibility. As demand grows for solutions that support barrier health, sustainability and scientific validation, formulators require technologies that deliver across all these dimensions. Iselux® Ultra Mild meets this need by combining effective yet gentle cleansing with
A clear, ultra-mild cleansing system designed for daily use on delicate skin
Key features of the cleanser: Mild, creamy foam
• Skin-friendly pH Clear viscous appearance
Suitable for head-to-toe baby cleansing
microbiome respect and formulation versatility. For baby care and sensitive skin, this is not just an emerging trend, it is the new benchmark. •
Major lyophilisation contract signals growing demand for freeze-dried parenterals
The freeze-drying market is expanding as pharmaceutical manufacturers respond to rising demand for lyophilised parenteral products. A significant new manufacturing equipment contract in Germany highlights how the industry is investing in advanced processing capabilities to capture this growth opportunity.
Demand for freeze-dried parenteral products in vials is increasing steadily. The contract manufacturer, Lyocontract, can attest to this trend. The company has been producing pharmaceuticals in Ilsenburg, Germany, since 2012.
The company operates a state-of-theart pharmaceutical manufacturing site. It specialises in developing and producing sterile, aseptic pharmaceuticals, with a focus on freeze-drying. It covers the entire value chain from formulation to aseptic filling and lyophilisation to analytical quality control and GMP-compliant packaging.
Lyocontract as a leading contract manufacturer for sterile freeze-dried products of the highest quality.”
To this end, the facility will be equipped with new equipment step by step. The first line has already been planned, and delivery is scheduled for summer 2027.
“With such an ambitious project, it is essential to have the right partners at our side. Syntegon will provide us with the complete line and handle the entire project from a single source,” Galgon underlined.
DID YOU KNOW?
Syntegon combines deep GMP expertise with integrated line design to reduce validation effort, boost overall equipment effectiveness, and ensure sterility and compliance – enabling seamless, low-risk pharma production.
In March, Lyocontract laid the foundation for one of the largest investments in its history with a groundbreaking ceremony. Around €50 million are planned for production expansion. Syntegon will partner with Lyocontract to equip the new facility with a complete line for filling and lyophilisation.
STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIP FOR FURTHER GROWTH
“With the groundbreaking ceremony, we are paving the way for further growth,” said Dr Tino Galgon, managing director of Lyocontract. “Our goal is to establish
This is the first vial project in Germany for Syntegon with integrated freeze-dryers.
SEAMLESS SOLUTIONS FROM A SINGLE SOURCE
“Since merging the Syntegon and Telstar portfolios in October 2024, we have significantly expanded our offering and can now provide our customers with comprehensive lines with fewer interfaces and a single point of contact throughout the entire lifecycle of the line,” said Dr Matthias Wagner, managing director of Syntegon Telstar, at the groundbreaking ceremony. “We are very proud that Lyocontract has placed its trust in us and look forward to this partnership.”
FOCUS ON COMPLIANCE AND FLEXIBILITY
The new line will cover the entire process. In addition to the filling and closing machine with integrated isolator, it includes a loading and unloading system and a freeze-dryer. Several requirements were decisive.
“We require a line that meets the regulatory requirements of EU GMP Annex 1 from outset, offers the necessary flexibility in terms of products and container sizes, and ensures high performance with minimal downtime,” Galgon explained.
This is the first vial project in Germany for Syntegon with integrated freezedryers. It is also an important milestone for Syntegon’s growth.
“The feedback on the integration of Telstar has been very positive. Several new customer projects worldwide have already shown why a single partner makes a decisive difference, both in terms of cooperation and technological implementation,” Wagner said. “It is therefore all the more rewarding to now be able to demonstrate these capabilities together with Lyocontract.” •
Syntegon will equip Lyocontract's new facility with a complete line for filling and lyophilisation of vials
Compliant Spectroscopic Solutions for Regulated Pharmaceutical Industries
Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FT-IR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and cost-effective compliance.
Instrument Qualification according to USP, PhEur, JP
Internal Validation Unit (IVU) for automated OQ & PQ
Full 21 CRF part 11 support for Data Security, Integrity, Traceability
ALPHA II - Compact and Reliable FT-IR Spectroscopy
State-of-the-Art FT-IR spectrometers should be effi cient and straightforward above all else. The ALPHA II follows this approach and makes FT-IR analysis easier than ever before. The user can swiftly exchange Bruker’s versatile QuickSnap™ sampling modules to ideally fi t the device to almost any kind of sample (e.g. solids, liquids and gases).
BRAVO - Handheld Raman Spectrometer
BRAVO mitigates fluorescence (SSE™), addresses a large spectral range (Duo LASER™) including CH stretching region and is a class 1M Laser product. The intuitive and guide workflow gives the ability for Raman spectroscopy into everybody’s hands
LUMOS II - Fully Automated Stand-Alone FT-IR Microscope
LUMOS II provides best performance for visual inspection and infrared spectral analysis of micro samples with highest comfort in use.
TANGO - The Next Generation of FT-NIR Spectrometer
Faster, simpler, more secure - with TANGO your NIR analysis speeds up. TANGO has exactly what users require of an FT-NIR spectrometer suitable for industrial use: robustness, high precision and straightforward operator guidance.
Bruker South Africa (Pty) Ltd Unit A-A001-G
Ground Floor, Lincolnwood Office Park Woodlands Drive, Woodmead Johannesburg 2191
Contact us for more details: www.bruker.com/optics infoZA.BOPT@bruker.com FT-IR, FT-NIR, RAMAN
Tel: +27 11 463-6040
Celebrating 150 years of Kilian technologies
Kilian’s story tells of the rise, fall and resurgence of a company steeped in tradition. The entrepreneur Fritz Kilian turned a locksmith's workshop in Berlin into a successful company now based in Cologne. Today, Romaco Kilian is a leading manufacturer of tablet presses.
The foundations were laid for Romaco Kilian 150 years ago in a small locksmith's workshop in the Lichtenberg district of Berlin. In this workshop, which his father had founded in 1875, the young Friedrich Franz Otto Kilian discovered his passion for engineering. Following his apprenticeship as a mechanic, in 1886 Friedrich (Fritz) took over his father’s business following his untimely death.
Fritz Kilian was commissioned by pharmacies in Berlin to develop compression devices, including a manual spindle press for producing pastilles, for which he obtained his first patent in 1891. As his next major goal, he devoted himself to designing an automatic tablet press. His prototype impressed the German Imperial Military Administration, catapulting his order book to a new level of fullness. He moved into new premises and named his company the ‘Fabrik pharmaceutischer Maschinen und Geräthschaften’ (Factory of Pharmaceutical Machines and Apparatus). In 1898, he obtained a patent for his universal press – the eccentric tablet press 4D.
STRAIGHT TO THE TOP
To cope with rising orders, Fritz Kilian established new company premises in Lichtenberg and, in 1899, began trading under the name ‘Fritz Kilian Maschinenfabrik’ (Fritz Kilian Machine Factory). He chose a powder mill bearing his initials as the company logo, demonstrating his expertise in handling raw materials involved in tablet production.
In 1905, a second factory was built in Hohenschönhausen, Berlin, significantly expanding production capacity. This laid the groundwork for a modern company with over 100 workers and numerous international branches, including in the US and UK.
At the 1913 EXPO in Gent, Belgium, he was awarded the ‘Grand Prix’ for his automated pharmaceutical production machines. Throughout his career, Fritz Kilian protected his inventions with more than 60 patents. The company continued growing steadily until his retirement aged 74, surviving even the Wall Street Crash as the pharmaceutical industry was less affected by the downturn.
Throughout his career, Fritz Kilian protected his inventions with more than 60 patents
RELENTLESS DECLINE
In 1940, Fritz stepped back, passing the business to his two sons, Fritz and Hans. This marked the beginning of the end. In 1941, Fritz Kilian Jr was killed when a bomb hit his night train to Hanover. A year later, Fritz Kilian Sr died of a stroke at age 76.
Hans Kilian took over during wartime and managed to keep the business going. Both Berlin production plants survived the war virtually unscathed, and Hans saw a realistic chance of resuming full production.
Company premises of the Fritz Kilian Maschinenfabrik in BerlinHohenschönhausen, photo taken in 1922
However, in 1946 he was arrested by the Soviet military administration and detained in Berlin-Hohenschönhausen prison. He was then transported to Special Camp Sachsenhausen near Oranienburg where he is thought to have died in 1947 of tuberculosis. His wife Eva fled with their three children to Delmenhorst.
After Hans Kilian's disappearance, operations finally ceased. Some employees, including the head of production, Werner Rühe and head of engineering, Fritz Greter managed to flee to the Western Occupation Zone carrying company documents and format drawings.
RESURGENCE IN COLOGNE
In 1947, the widow of Fritz Kilian Jr took the initiative to rebuild the company. Together with Rühe and Greter, they contacted Fritz Kilian Sr's
DID YOU KNOW?
TECHNICAL ACHIEVEMENTS
heirs. They found production partner Strunk, and in 1948 the newly founded Kilian & Co was established in Ehrenfeld, Cologne as the official representative of Maschinenfabrik Fritz Kilian.
Despite the years of war, international demand for Kilian products remained high. The company overcame initial teething problems and launched the first fully enclosed Kilian tablet press made in Cologne in 1952.
BACK ON TRACK FOR SUCCESS
In 1953, English manufacturer James Frank Marshall and the widow of Fritz Kilian Jr acquired a majority stake in Kilian & Co. Production was outsourced to Schmidding-Werke in Cologne’s Niehl district. After Marshall's death, Kilian was sold entirely to Schmidding-Werke in 1976, remaining privately owned until 2000. Without suitable successors, Kilian & Co was sold to the Italian group, IMA.
Kilian was part of the globally active IMA Group for 13 years, during which the company moved to modern premises in Scarlettallee 11 in Niehl, Cologne. The current owner Romaco took over the tableting technology manufacturer in 2013 and incorporated Kilian into its processing division alongside processing machines from Innojet and tablet coaters from Tecpharm.
When Fritz Kilian took his first apparatuses to market, many manufacturers were already active in Europe and the US. It’s remarkable that although he was initially penniless, he managed to assert himself in this competitive environment and become one of the leading tablet press suppliers of his time. Today, Kilian is the oldest manufacturer of tableting technology which is still active.
Several of Fritz Kilian’s technical achievements were groundbreaking for modern tableting technology. In 1900, Kilian designed compression rollers for his rotary presses, developing the practice of pre-compressing products before main compression. In 1908, the company launched a press with three filling stations for multilayer tablets. The best-known rotary tableting system was the ‘Heinzelmännche’, named after Cologne’s mythical helpful elves. In 1919, Kilian introduced the non-wearing upper punch guide.
In the mid-1930s, Kilian’s industrial production of tab-in-tab applications was pioneering. Tablets were becoming the preferred method for antibiotics, but the core needed dry-coating to protect unstable substances and mask bitter tastes. Kilian set the standard for tab-in-tab production, helping the company gain a foothold in Cologne and remain active internationally. •
Kilian nameplate bearing the stylised powder mill logo
Kilian’s ‘Heinzelmännchen’ – the vintage ‘helpful elf’ tablet press from the year 1918
The modern successors to Kilian technologies continue to uphold the legacy of company founder, Fritz Kilian. The Romaco Group will showcase these technologies at interpack in Düsseldorf, Germany (Hall 16, Booth D22) from 7 to 13 May.
When space is tight and product variety is high, pharmaceutical manufacturers need packaging solutions that deliver flexibility without compromise. Cama Group has designed a solution that combines cutting-edge 3-axis robotics with automated magazine-loading technology to tackle these challenges.
By offering a wide range of machines, technologies and robotic solutions developed in-house, Cama has successfully helped large and small companies around the world achieve significant results for their businesses. Cama solutions are developed to meet the specific requirements of the packaging industry, with the ability to integrate numerous additional functionalities and thirdparty technologies.
These capabilities were perfectly demonstrated on a recent project at a Danish para-pharmaceutical company.
SPECIFICS ABOUT THE PROJECT
The Cama Group, an Italian company specialising in secondary packaging lines, is an expert in the field of customised and bespoke solutions.
The customer, a Danish manufacturer, produces a wide variety of medical solutions and products for hospital and at-home use. It was looking for highly flexible secondary packaging technology that would enable the Danish company to package four aerosol/bottle sizes of two 50ml variants and two 75ml and 240ml variants. These products not only had to be packaged in different quantities and in different packs – some with vertical separators/dividers
The introduction of CAMA’s ACL series has also improved the customer’s technologies
– but the space available in the customer's facility was also limited, with an irregular layout.
THE TECHNOLOGY IN FOCUS
During operation in a CAMA unloading unit, RSC boxes are manually opened and loaded onto an infeed conveyor belt, where a vision system detects their contents. A three-axis robot then removes the aerosols from the box and places them on an accumulation conveyor belt. The vision system is crucial at this stage to avoid random positioning errors.
The products are then passed to a labelling and coding unit and its quality
control system, which also checks the application and readability using a dedicated dual-camera vision system.
The labelled products are then transported and sorted into the desired pack configuration before entering the case packer, where vertical dividers are added, if required. The complete pack is then pushed into a pre-packed wraparound box. After loading, the boxes are transferred to a flap-folding station and sealed with hotmelt glue before being transported to the machine outfeed.
The integration of three latestgeneration CAMA RB 003 robots has enhanced the system in terms of performance and flexibility, while remaining extremely compact in terms of footprint and line layout.
NEXT-LEVEL ADVANTAGES
The introduction of CAMA’s automatic carton loading (ACL) series has also improved the customer’s technologies. This truly takes the systems to the next level. The line at the Danish para-pharmaceutical company will be equipped with a collaborative robot for loading the box blanks onto two different box magazines, making the technology even more streamlined for usage by the line operators.
The ACL will be a CAMA product line that is highly customised to the needs of partners and can be installed on new and existing CAMA lines, as well as being marketed as an add-on to competitor machines.
Every packaging application presents a unique set of challenges. For this reason, CAMA offers the essentials to provide customers with customised solutions. These include a comprehensive range of solutions and technologies, supported by extensive multi-industry expertise. •
The local agent for CAMA is USS Pactech.
CAMA – camagroup.com USS Pactech – www.usspactech.co.za
In an industry where every millimetre of package space tells a story, VR Print has carved out a reputation as the label technology partner that transforms complex packaging challenges into competitive advantages.
Buckle Packaging is driving sustainable growth across Southern Africa. The company continues to lead the charge in sustainable packaging innovation, helping manufacturers across diverse industries transition to eco-friendly solutions without compromising on performance.
In a market where packaging choices can make or break product success, Bright Packaging & Raw Materials has established itself as the go-to partner for companies seeking quality, flexibility, and sustainability without compromise.
If you are a supplier to the packaging industry, this will be an ideal opportunity to showcase your product offering and create additional brand awareness within the food, beverage, pharmaceutical, cosmetics, personal care, and home care manufacturing sectors.
Contact our advertising Key Account Managers to book your space:
Càndida
Start small, scale fast – package smarter
Brightpack delivers scalable solutions designed to grow with your business, from pharmaceutical glass to production equipment. No minimum order quantities, no limits.
Pharmaceutical manufacturing is evolving, becoming smarter, faster and more adaptable. As businesses embrace automation, efficiency and scalable production, the need for reliable packaging and flexible equipment has never been more important.
Brightpack supports this shift by supplying high-quality pharmaceutical glass packaging and practical production equipment designed to grow alongside your
business, from early-stage startups to established manufacturers.
Its pharmaceutical glass range includes a variety of options from 5ml to 100ml bottles in clear, amber, blue, green and black. The range is imported to ensure consistency, durability and a premium finish. Paired with Brightpack’s full range of imported closures, including droppers, pipettes and poly cone caps, the company helps maintain product integrity while elevating presentation.
CONTEMPORARY
PRODUCTION EQUIPMENT
Beyond packaging, Brightpack provides accessible production equipment tailored to modern manufacturing needs. Its mixing solutions range from high-powered electric and pneumatic mixers suitable for small 50 ℓ batches to large-scale 1000 ℓ flowbin mixing. For filling, Brightpack offers manual and semi-automatic pneumatic machines capable of handling volumes from 10ml to 5 000ml, suitable for liquids and thicker emulsions. Expanding its range further, Brightpack’s tube sealing machine enables efficient packaging for creams, gels and ointments.
COMMITTED TO SCALABLE GROWTH
What sets Brightpack apart is its commitment to scalable growth. With
With no minimum order quantities, businesses can start small and scale at their own pace
no minimum order quantities, businesses can start small and scale at their own pace, whether investing in their first mixer or upgrading to higher-capacity systems. This flexibility is particularly valuable in today’s landscape, where agility and efficiency are key to staying competitive.
Customers can visit the walk-in stores in Centurion and Cape Town to explore Brightpack’s full range in person. With strong local stockholding of imported products, the company ensures consistent availability and reduced lead times. As manufacturing evolves, Brightpack remains focused on delivering practical, reliable solutions that support confident, scalable growth. •
Brightpack – www.brightpack.co.za
DID YOU KNOW?
Glass offers compelling advantages that resonate particularly well in South Africa’s diverse climate conditions. Unlike plastic alternatives, glass maintains complete chemical inertness, ensuring product integrity across temperature variations and extended storage periods. For pharmaceutical companies dealing with sensitive formulations or cosmetics brands using active ingredients, this stability represents added quality assurance and regulatory compliance.
Paper recycling increases by 3.3%
South Africa’s paper recycling rate reached 63.3% in 2025, up from 60% in 2024. This is according to PAMSA, the Paper Manufacturers Association of South Africa.
Through paper mills and a nationwide network of collectors – including small recycling businesses and informal waste pickers – around 1.2 million tonnes of paper and paper packaging are diverted from landfill each year. It is returned to the recycling loop, where it is used again to produce new paper products such as packaging and tissue.
Marking Global Recycling Day on 18 March, PAMSA says that while this progress reflects the growing role that consumers play in keeping recyclable materials in circulation, there is still significant room for improvement.
“Unfortunately, a substantial volume is still ending up in landfill or the environment due to poor waste separation and recycling habits,” says Samantha Choles, communications manager for PAMSA.
GIVE PAPER PRODUCTS A SECOND LIFE
Office paper and paper packaging, such as cardboard boxes and grocery bags, are both widely used and highly recyclable,
Every tonne of recycled paper saves around 3m 3 of landfill space
making them key to improving South Africa’s recycling rate.
“We really want to encourage people to put cardboard boxes and paper bags out for collection by informal collectors,” says Choles. “If these materials are placed in wheelie bins, they often become dirty and wet, making them far more difficult to recover and recycle.”
PAMSA also appeals to businesses, schools and homes to help improve the recycling of office paper.
“Put containers at printers, desks and in classrooms to make it easier for people to recycle,” advises Choles.
“By making a few simple changes at home, work and school, consumers can help ensure that paper products get a second life instead of ending up in landfills, which are rapidly nearing capacity.”
BUILD SIMPLE
RECYCLING HABITS
Every tonne of recycled paper saves around 3m 3 of landfill space. If baled, the recovered material would cover
the equivalent of 218 football fields or 154 rugby fields. It would fill 1 438 Olympic-sized swimming pools or stretch 1 797km if laid end to end –roughly the distance from Cape Town to the Kruger National Park.
Three simple ways to recycle more paper:
1. Know what can be recycled – Items such as office paper, cardboard boxes, cereal boxes, magazines, newspapers as well as milk and beverage cartons can all be recycled. Very wet or dirty paper products, tissues, nappies and laminated paper should be disposed of as general waste.
2. Keep paper separate, clean and dry – Paper and cardboard should be kept separate from wet or food waste so they remain suitable for recycling. Remove plastic windows, tape, staples or other non-paper components before recycling.
3. Support local recycling systems –Consumers can place recyclables out for neighbourhood collectors, use municipal recycling programmes where available, or drop materials off at recycling centres or shopping mall recycling points.
According to PAMSA, small actions by millions of South Africans can make a significant difference.
“Every cereal box, cardboard box or office document that is separated for recycling helps keep valuable fibre in the production loop,” says Choles.
“By building simple recycling habits, consumers can help South Africa continue improving its recycling rate.” •
For more information on how to recycle paper, visit www.pamsa.co.za .
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