SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
October 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 10
www.pharmacos.co.za
SKIN CARE REDEFINED: Powerful actives, new claims & novel technologies
Celebrating 25 years
of measurable quality & excellence in pharma, nutrition & biotechnology products
Aerosols thrive with investments and partnerships Hi-tech ingredients for therapeutic body care
Kirsch Pharma HealthCare
Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
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October 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 10
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
6 NEWS
Significant microbiota discovery for Silab
Chempure revamps its corporate identity
26 SKIN CARE
9 ON THE STREET
Lipochroman molecule protects and detoxes skin
Millchem promises beautiful skin with novel actives
SmartLipids, a high-tech delivery system
10 EVENTS
Evonik launches care solutions business unit
Protect the skin from artificial visible light
Countdown to SAPHEX 2018
L’Oréal introduces Mixa in key African markets
Highlights from the Afriplex symposium
Natural and organic transparency from DSM
What’s new in South Africa
16 QUALITY CONTROL
37 SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING
New discovery to standardise antibiotic testing
Activate lipolysis with a new biological pathway
Automate pharma research with syringe pumps
The rise of the therapeutic body care category
Stability solutions for the hasty developer
40 PHARMA FOCUS: MADE IN SA
20 AEROSOLS
Serialisation tips to implement track and trace
Puregas honours long standing partners
Positive results for Adcock Ingram
ONCAP acquires Precision Global
9
actives for beautiful skin
24 INDUSTRY TALK
IMCD South Africa partners with TechnoGirl
8 | Volume 44 October 201
28
| Number 10
W IE V E R g n i g a k c Pa 46
RICAN SOUTH AF
cos.co.za ww w.pharma
n Precisio n solutio snd
es a for perfum ticals u e c a pharm
46 Glass Packaging
The promise of premium
48 ASSOCIATION NEWS
rs gy disrupto TechnoloM ini from arches
The latest from Coschem and the AMA
ery ck fit for ev Flexible epa ing stag of recycl P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
3
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
THE TEAM
Healthy skin is
S
EDITORIAL
beautiful skin
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za
kin care is the third largest category
inspired by therapeutic body care trends, with
in the South African beauty and
claims ranging from firming and tightening,
personal care industry. This is
contour improvement, detoxification, cellulite
followed by fragrances in second
reduction and even weight loss benefits –
position and hair care, which leads at
though the latter two are highly contentious
number one. These statistics are according
from a regulatory perspective.
to Euromonitor International’s 2017 research
It’s been a busy month for the aerosols
on beauty and personal care in
industry with the AMA golf day and prize giving
sub-Saharan Africa.
dinner (page 49) and the Puregas Awards
Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Contributors: Alicia Giménez, Dr Alison Halliday, Eulalia González, John Knowlton, Marie Ollagnier, Olga Laporta, Raquel Delgado ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za
Data from a recent study conducted by
(page 20). On page 22, Precision Valve South
L’Oréal South Africa’s Research & Innovation
Africa discusses developments stemming from
Sales Executive: Gayle Kihn +27 (0)82 457 0896 gayle.kihn@newmediapub.co.za
Centre shows more than 99 percent of women
ONCAP’s acquisition of Precision Global. Set to
INTERNATIONAL SALES
surveyed in key South African and African
be a positive move for Precision’s sites all over
markets have pigmentation disorders. These
the world, operations at Precision Valve South
range from an uneven complexion to stretch
Africa are earmarked to be crucial to the
marks. The study also documented their
future of the global business.
aspirations, which include matte, even tone, smooth and glowing skin. Considering these trends, it’s important
In our regular PACKAGING REVIEW section, Aarifah Nosarka presents a strong business case for glass packaging, highlighting a
suppliers bring actives and ingredients to
massive gap in South Africa for manufacturing
the market that are not only relevant but
and supplying glass fragrance bottles. Turn
also effective on all the Fitzpatrick skin types
to page 46 for more info on the beauty and
represented in South Africa’s diverse consumer
practical benefits of glass.
landscape. In this edition of P C Review,
Our social media communities dedicated to
Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo
we’ve featured a few options that could do
cosmetics, pharma and health supplements
Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za
well in the South African context. Turn to our
manufacturing and the packaging industry,
Production Controller: Rae Morrison
skin care feature on page 26 to read about a
are growing. If you want to be part of the
Art Director: David Kyslinger
molecule proven to improve the appearance
conversation and gain access to value added
JOHANNESBURG OFFICE
of skin; a range of actives that calm sensitive
content, follow:
New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146
skin, brighten it and provide a youthful glow;
@PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview
a novel encapsulation technology to deliver
@packagingreview
retinol to the skin in a safe and controlled way;
@SApharmacos
and new products on the market to soothe
@pharmacosreview
and restore compromised skin. Another category to watch is slimming
Enjoy the read!
and body contouring, featured on page 37.
Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Bridget McCarney
Nowadays, products in this category are
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD
Irna van Zyl HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
Consultant, drbaileys.com
Dr Trevor Baillie
Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
John Knowlton
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Vivian Frittelli
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
4
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
Suppliers of Automated Equipment and Project Services to all Industries For your complete Small to Turnkey Solutions
NEWS
Pharma could CHEMPURE propel Africa into REVEALS ITS NEW CORPORATE IDENTITY the forefront of healthcare A TRUSTED SUPPLIER to the personal care, food and beverage, health and wellness, and sports nutrition industries, Chempure has grown over the last 25 years. It’s therefore fitting the company’s vision, values and brand also evolve to reflect what Chempure stands for today. The future of the business continues to unfold rapidly as it strives to deliver innovative solutions and speciality ingredients in the many dynamic markets it serves. Remaining at the forefront of innovation requires agility to meet customers’ changing needs. This is reflected in Chempure’s new brand architecture and on its redesigned website www. chempure.co.za.
The new corporate identity satisfies all the expectations of what the company’s original branding stood for while moving it forward and acknowledging Chempure’s agility, excellence and global reach. The red triangle represents the dynamic and solid local foundation of the company. Chempure’s global reach and turnkey offering, from sourcing quality speciality ingredients and providing technical development support to supplying directly to customers, are embodied in the dark blue circle. Look out for the company’s new branding on social media – like @ChempureSA on Facebook or follow Chempure on LinkedIn for regular updates on its products and services.
THE FOURTH INDUSTRIAL number of patients on life-saving Revolution has a profound effect medication for therapeutic areas on the pharma industry. New such as HIV, oncology, respiratory technology assists with earlier and neurological conditions,’ diagnoses, enhanced manufacturing Miller explained. For example, in capabilities and improved treatment 2001, Cipla pioneered a fixed-dose plans by using data to better antiretroviral (ARV) combination, understand patients’ needs. This reducing the cost of ARVs from is according to Cipla South Africa’s US$12 500 annually to less CEO, Paul Miller, who than US$1 per day. The cost spoke at the 10 th BRICS of this medication has since summit, which took been reduced to US$0.30 place from 25 to 27 per day. July at the Sandton In Africa, the Ugandan Convention Centre. Cipla QCIL facility has ‘Data will be the biggest manufactured the first Pa ul Miller driver behind changes batch of a new powerful in healthcare and the ARV medicine for first line catalyst for quantum leaps in terms HIV treatment. According to Miller’s of medical research,’ he said. The twitter feed, it is the only facility theme for BRICS 2018 was ‘BRICS in in Africa to produce this medicine Africa: Cooperation with developing under the strict quality standards of countries for inclusive growth and the World Health Organization. shared prosperity in the Fourth Cipla is committed to Industrial Revolution’. manufacturing in Africa for Africa. Cipla was one of the sponsors The company has also invested of the summit. ‘In partnership with in enhancing its Cipla Medpro Cipla India, we’ve been able to bring Manufacturing plant in KwaZuluaffordable healthcare to more South Natal, significantly increasing its Africans, thereby increasing the production capacity for ARVs.
SAVE ON LABOUR
AND BOOST YOUR OUTPUT OMRON’S NEW LINE of Scara robots boasts a sleek design and enhanced performance. Named the i4, these new generation robots save space on the production floor and allow for easier configuration into existing production lines. It is also fast, repeatable, easy to operate and flexible for multiple configurations and applications. Manufacturers around the world are facing major challenges having to produce a high mix low volume of products while dealing with labour issues and shorter product life cycles. These companies must maintain flexibility in quick changeovers and production line layout alterations. They are also challenged by sudden stops and need to meet the demands of high accuracy and speed during production. To overcome these challenges, the i4
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| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
line features better communication through EtherCAT, enabling synchronisation between other automation devices. This facilitates advanced assembly, inserting and mounting processes, which require high accuracy and demanding throughput. It also ensures quality control with vision integration. With the world’s first built-in signals for preventive maintenance, the i4 robots visualise working data and supervises its status, allowing users to mitigate unplanned downtime. In keeping with Omron’s mission to innovate based on industry demand, the features of the new Scara line make it possible for manufacturers to meet the demands of mass customisation. This
Omron’s new i4 Scara family of robots
allows them to produce high mixes of products at low volumes, offering a wider array of goods to customers and consumers. In 2019, Omron will introduce the first three models: the i4-650; i4-750 and i4-850, which have an arm reach of 650, 750 and 850mm, respectively. •
Silab decrypts mature skin’s microbial signature
NEWS
A Silab researcher performs skin microbiota facial sampling by swabbing
THE RESEARCH TEAMS of Silab’s microbiota platform have shown ageing results in an imbalance of the cutaneous microbiota of Caucasian women. This important discovery has just been published in the peer-reviewed Journal of Applied Microbiology. Facial skin
samples were taken from young and old Caucasian women and analysed by Silab’s researchers using a high-tech MiSeq tool. Bioinformatic analysis of the data showed a distribution of the microbiota changes during the course of ageing. ‘Previous studies on Asian women had shown a change in the cutaneous microbiota during the course of ageing. Nevertheless, given that each population has a different microbial signature, it was of interest to the scientific community to decrypt the imbalances of the agerelated cutaneous microbiota specifically in Caucasian women,’ says Romain Jugé,
OVER 200 HALAL COMPLIANT INGREDIENTS AS A GLOBAL supplier of cosmetics ingredients, Symrise understands the specific requirements of the Islamic population and provides a comprehensive palette of Halal certified products. Its manufacturing facilities in Singapore and its headquarters in Holzminden, Germany comply with Halal guidelines. Symrise offers more than compliant 200 products, which meet the personal care needs of Muslim consumers. ‘We are pleased to be able to offer our customers a wide range of ingredients bearing the Halal seal thanks to our certified production facilities,’ says Dr Gabriele Vielhaber, senior vice president, cosmetics ingredients, at Symrise. The Frescolat range of ingredients provides cooling and refreshing benefits. In the established micro protection category, Symrise offers a full set of ingredients to assist with antimicrobial product and skin
protection. These Frescolat products mostly offer multifunctional benefits. Hydrolite 5 green improves look, consistency and protects a formulation while SymClariol is a multifunctional ingredient suited to oily scalp and anti-dandruff applications. SymCalmin calms skin irritations and soothes redness, which can occur due to the build-up of sweat. The SymHair range for hair care products protects the fibres from dust and breakage and improve shine and combability. Symrise’s extensive offering of cosmetics ingredients includes actives, emollients, solubilisers, UV filters and plant extracts all with Halal certification. Due to the globally sustained growth of the Muslim population, the demand for products made in line with Islamic regulations increase to be in greater. In response, Symrise is constantly working to expand its range of Halal products.
Silab’s R&D project leader. Based on this finding, anti-ageing cosmetics of the future can contain active ingredients that restore the balance of the microbiota of mature skin. The results of the in vivo modelling studies also led to the substantiation of Ecobiotys using by metasequencing on panels of volunteers. Ecobiotys the first active ingredient bio-inspired by the high regulating capacity of floral nectar microbiota – the Nectarobiota. It rebalances the distribution of bacterial communities on mature skin by strengthening the skin’s immune and mechanical barriers. This improves the quality of the skin barrier and enhances the complexion. Ecobiotys is available in South Africa from Meganede.
WORLD’S TOP 25 PHARMA COMPANIES AS PER GLOBALDATA THE PERFORMANCE HIGHLIGHTS of the top 25 publicly traded global pharma companies by market cap (Mcap), for the quarter ended 30 June 2018 (Q2), have been analysed by GlobalData. The collective Mcap of the top 25 reached around US$2.7 trillion, growing marginally at 1.1 percent in Q2 2018. Merck US, Bayer, GSK, Eli Lilly, CSL and Shire all achieved double digit Mcap growth during Q2. J&J maintained its number one spot while Chinese pharma company, Jiangsu Hengrui Medicine, made it onto the list at number 24. Pfizer was second on the list, Roche third, Novartis AG fourth and Merck & Co was fifth. Six of the companies on the list experienced positive Mcap growth in Q2, with CSL, Shire and Bayer achieving 24, 20 and 16 percent, respectively. Yet the Mcap of BMS and Celgene declined by over 10 percent. Institutional investors in BMS traded a substantial number of shares in
Q2 which is thought to have impacted the company’s Mcap performance while setbacks in some key pipeline drugs affected Celgene’s Mcap value. There were plenty of new developments and market activity during the review period, with big pharma companies focusing more on their core business areas. BMS announced its intention to sell its French consumer health business; P&G acquired Merck KGaA’s vitamin brands; GSK bought a consumer healthcare joint venture from Novartis for US$13 billion and Pfizer announced plans to divest from its European generics business. In geographical terms, North America contributed an aggregate Mcap of US$1.5 trillion, with 13 companies featuring among the top 25. The Mcap of European and Asia-Pacific pharma businesses grew 3.2 and 16.5 percent respectively during Q2. •
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
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| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
January 2019 COSME Tech 2019 30 January to 1 February Makuhari Messe, Japan www.cosme-i.jp/en
STREET 1 Focused skin care
2 Made with pride
Manufactured locally, Skin Oil from Africa is formulated with BioPharm Oil, which includes Ceramide NG. This active ingredient
New from Environ, the Focus Care range pushes scientific
mimics an essential skin molecule, capturing and binding water
boundaries. There are three ranges in the stable with products
required by the epidermis to remain supple, smooth and hydrated.
that contain powerful formulations based on intelligent
It offers intensive skin care benefits to care for scars, improve skin
ingredient combinations. Focus Care Youth+ assists with
health, moisturise dry skin and address stretch marks. Skin Oil from
younger looking, smoother skin. The Focus Care Moisture+
Africa is sold in Pick n Pay stores nationwide.
range is designed to deliver moisturising benefits to dull, dry and dehydrated skin. The Focus Care Comfort+ range relieves and
3 Bust the bulge
soothes sensitive skin.
5 Tough on dry skin
4 Invisible sun protection
New from Genop Healthcare,
Inspired by thermal water mist, Anthelios’ first high UVA
Epi-max Man is an all-purpose
and UVB protection sunscreen is easy to apply and
emollient moisturiser for dry
quickly absorbed. It delivers double anti-shine action
skin, eczema and sensitive skin
with an ultra-dry matte finish and does not leave a
conditions. It contains the Epi-max
white residue. This broad spectrum sunscreen is highly
trusted formulation, which creates
moisturising yet light and fresh. It is ideal
a protective barrier on the skin,
for oily, sensitive and blemish-prone skin
reduces moisture loss and helps
and can be worn over or under
skin regenerate. Epi-max Man is
makeup. La Roche-Posay products
free of artificial colourants and
are sold nationwide in Dischem
fragrances and can be used as
retail pharmacies.
frequently as needed. Epi-max Man is packaged in masculine
4
grey packaging to differentiate it from the regular Epi-max products, making shopping for Epi-max Man easier and convenient.
Drop Away Lipo Reduce promises to get you beach confident in 21 days. The innovative formula of this cellulite busting and inch loss cream is designed to help reduce the appearance of dimples. Lipo reducer complex Boost-LP Tropical Fruit Longane and Apple Nutricible 121D decrease the formation and storage of fat. The complex Boost-LP (developed from Pomotherapie) intensifies the fat burning action of caffeine, producing a slimming and firming effect. Caffeine and Brown Algae break down the fat while Ive, Hamamelis, Black Crowberry and Horse Chestnut activate microcirculation. Visit www.dropaway.co.uk for more information.
2
5 1
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P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
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The countdown has begun to SAPHEX 2018. Visitors to the show can look forward to one on one engagements with over 150 exhibitors on APIs, excipients, packaging, processing machinery, lab equipment, software solutions, clean room products and new investment opportunities. P C Review takes a sneak peek at what you can expect to see at the event.
S
Uniting global pharma people and products in Africa
SAPHEX had a hugely successful
new ideas into life changing innovations,
launch in 2017, establishing itself as
using trusted life sciences intelligence
it provides unbreakable product
the ‘go-to’ networking and business
and analytics.
authentication at a minimal cost
event for the African pharma
manufacturing industry.
It partners with professionals throughout
Using Pagemark Pelta technology,
to the manufacturer. It also offers a
the pharma innovation lifecycle at the
comprehensive range of metal detectors,
discovery, development, protection and
check weighers, X-Ray units, reputable
Series, the exhibition takes on 1 and 2
commercialisation stages. Visit stand B7 to
continuous inkjet and laser marking
November place, alongside The Pharmacy
find out how Clarivate Analytics can help
systems, blister packaging machines,
Show, at Gallagher Convention Centre in
you help others faster.
tablet counters, vision inspection systems
Organised by the Africa Pharma Event
Midrand, Gauteng.
and tablet manufacturing solutions,
SGD Pharma
giving you full unit level traceability of
show are both local and international
The primary focus of SGD Pharma is to
your products, from manufacturing to end
companies that supply a range of products
produce premium quality packaging
use. Visit stand B24 to discuss the value
and services for the pharma industry.
according to global pharmacopoeia
TracePack can offer you.
The exhibitors taking part in this year’s
standards. It also partners with
Clarivate Analytics
customers in the development and
BioClean and Ansell
Clarivate Analytics understands the
realisation of their projects, from design
BioClean offers the largest range of
challenges facing the pharma industry.
to manufacturing.
gloves under one brand. It also supplies
These include productivity issues, priority
Quality and patient safety are
disposable garments that provide head to
reviews, mixed messages from business
paramount at SGD Pharma. Based in
toe protection, a selection of autoclavable
data, developments in immune therapy,
France, its production sites are ISO 15378
or single use goggles, chemo safety wear
competitive positioning and rising drug
certified and comply with GMP. All bottles
for critical extra protection, facemasks
costs. The company is a global leader in
are produced and packaged in clean
suitable for all controlled environments
providing trusted insights and analytics to
room ISO 8 controlled environments.
and a comprehensive choice of
accelerate the pace of innovation.
Through ensuring continuous supply,
essential accessories.
Clarivate Analytics is on a mission to help radically reduce the time it takes to change
SDG Pharma promises to protect its
sciences solutions portfolio, which
back-up solutions between its different
complies with the rigorous ISO and EN
manufacturing sites for all types of glass.
regulations and maintains consistently
The group’s mission, aligned with its DNA,
BioClean’s personal protective equipment meets the demanding requirements of sterile environments
10
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
BioClean forms part of Ansell’s life
customers and patients. It also provides
high standards. Experts from Ansell will be
is to improve and protect a patient’s health
available at stand A8 to discuss the best
by providing customers with high quality
ways to keep your products and workers
and reliable primary glass packaging.
safe in critical environments.
TracePac
Berry Global
Are you looking for faultless marking, coding
With 135 manufacturing sites worldwide,
and security solutions for your pharma
Berry Global is a leader in plastic
products? The unique authentication
packaging, nonwoven materials and films
offerings from TracePack ensure the security
for the healthcare industry. Its pharma
of your manufactured goods, completely
packaging expertise spans the full range of
eliminating counterfeiting.
drug delivery routes, from child resistant and
SAPHEX CONFERENCE SPEAKERS AND TOPICS
the thermal treatment of hazardous waste. Its unique thermal desorption plant utilises pyrolysis technology, which is capable of
• Martha Smit of Fasken will share the keynote
achieving 99.9999 percent destruction of all
address on The Impact of the need for Global
hazardous waste.
Harmonisation of Regulation and Compliance
A-Thermal has just completed an exciting
Requirements on the survival of the Life Sciences
project to produce a carbonised residue
Industry
by-product from the variable forms of
• What’s next for Sterile Contract Manufacturing in Emerging Markets; Primary Packaging Solutions for
Risdop, Berry Global’s new innovative packaging for eyedrops
Wearable Injectors, and The Best Plastic Vial and Syringe for Biologics will be discussed on day one
hazardous waste processed in its plant. The carbonised residue has similar properties to coal and can be used as a fuel alternative.
senior friendly closures to user-independent
This positions A-Thermal as a zero-landfill
droppers. The company manufactures
waste management treatment facility. To
about Safe Products from the Factory Floor to your
bottles, jars, tubes, vials, child resistant
the company’s knowledge, it is a world first
Patients’ Hands
and tamper evident closures, ophthalmic
for thermal treatment processes.
• Kyle Parker of Traceability Solutions will talk
• Impact of Blockchain Technology to Stop
packaging, drug delivery devices and nasal
A-Thermal also specialises in the
Counterfeit Drugs will be discussed by Shana
sprays and pumps. It can also develop
permanent and secure destruction
Derman of Intellicred
custom packaging solutions.
of pharmaceuticals. Operations are
• William van Aarde of The Talent Seekers will focus on Skills & Mindset – A Roadmap for Change
At stand B8, Berry Global will showcase
supervised by a full-time pharmacist
Risdop – an innovative user-independent
who ensures legal compliance with the
eyedropper with a unique nozzle that helps
regulations governing the destruction of
prevent over dosage.
medicines. Visit stand B28 for more info.
of A-Thermal
A-Thermal
SAP partner, PTS3
• Sascha Rother of Basan will share insight into the
Primarily servicing the pharma and
SAP ERP software is a completely integrated
chemical manufacturing industries,
solution that can provide pharma
A-Thermal Retort Technologies specialises in
manufacturers with real time data at their
• Key Regulatory Changes to Destruction of Medicine, Scheduled Substances and Medical Devices will be presented by Martin McClintock
Bio-decontamination of Pharmaceutical Facilities.
PHARMACEUTICALS • SCHEDULE 5 AND 6 • COSMETICS • MEDICAL DEVICES • AEROSOLS • RAW MATERIAL • MANUFACTURING WASTE • QC LAB WASTE • BIOLOGICAL AND ANATOMICAL WASTE • CHEMICALS • SOLVENTS • PESTICIDES • ON-SITE WASTE MANAGEMENT • WASTE TRANSPORT • AND MORE
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
11
fingertips. It allows for business process reengineering and analyses with multiple MIS reports, which are useful for growth. One of the fastest growing SAP partners in India, PTS3 has built a reputation for the ontime delivery of intricate solutions to SMEs in diverse industries. The company is managed by highly knowledgeable professionals with 25 to 30 years’ industry experience. PTS3 has successfully implemented SAP ERP in in more than 86 organisations, including pharma manufacturing, chemicals, automation, plastics production
Eurofarma’s industrial complex located in Itapevi, Spain, is among the largest pharma manufacturing groups in Latin America
Aptar Pharma
Zhonghe
Exhibiting for the first time at SAPHEX,
Injectable Hexin Thymopentin was the first
PTS3’s global footprint spans India, the
Aptar Pharma is a leading provider of
peptide drug developed by Zhonghe in
US, Dubai, Qatar and Bahrain with plans to
innovative drug delivery systems to the
1997. Its approval marked the start of the
expand into South Africa. Visit stand C29 to
pharma, consumer healthcare and
peptide industry in China.
find out more.
biotech industries.
and hospitals.
At stand C25, visitors will have the
Since then, diversified peptide products have been launched covering many
Eurofarma
opportunity to explore the company’s
therapeutic areas such as the immune
Brazil’s first multinational pharma
extensive and innovative drug
system, antineoplastics, hepatopathy, the
manufacturer, Eurofarma has a presence in
delivery solutions portfolio across all
digestive and urinary systems, gynaecology
19 countries in Latin America and a regional
its therapeutic areas including nasal,
and obstetrics.
office in Africa, in Mozambique. Its portfolio
pulmonary, injectables and eyecare.
comprises hospital, oncology, prescription,
Aptar Pharma has over 50 years’
Besides caring for human health, the company has an extensive CSR
OTC and veterinarian products.
experience in providing customers with
programme. During the SARS epidemic
Europharma has six manufacturing plants
a large range of specialised delivery
in 2003, Zhonghe donated thymopentin
in Brazil and five more located in several
devices, components, analytical services
anti-SARS drugs to the value of more than
Latin American countries. Its main 300m²
and regulatory support.
US$1 million to treat thousands of affected
facility in São Paulo is equipped with modern
With a strong focus on innovation,
patients. Visit stand B1 to discover more
technology and holds various global
the company is a leader in developing
about Zhonghe, a leading peptide drugs
pharma manufacturing certifications.
connected devices to deliver digital
manufacturer based in China.
The company has a vision to recreate
medicines. South Africa is an interesting
its Latin American success in Africa and is
market for Aptar Pharma. Its experts will
exhibiting at SAPHEX to discuss strategic
Codal-Synto
be available during the expo to discuss
An established provider of generic
partnerships with potential investors. Be sure
the latest trends and innovations in drug
medicines, Codal-Synto from Cyprus has
to visit Eurofarma at stand B14.
delivery systems.
expertise in supplying private and public healthcare systems and export markets. The company was originally established to address pharmaceutical needs on
Innovative drug delivery systems from Aptar Pharma
the Mediterranean island. Since then it has expanded its geographical network, exporting to countries in Europe, the Middle East, Africa and Asia. The company outsources all manufacturing and packing to Medochemie, a branded generics manufacturer of global scale. As a result, Codal-Synto has a lean management structure that allows it to supply generics at competitive prices. Experts from Codal-Synto will be at stand B5 to answer all your off-shore manufacturing and pharma exporting questions. •
Visit www.saphex.co.za to view the full list of exhibitors and to find out more information about the event.
12
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
EVENTS
Plants, science and sustainability
The global market for health supplements is growing. Consumer interest in healthy living and differentiated research on active ingredients are propelling the industry into a new frontier. These trends and more were evident at the recent Afriplex Technical Symposium.
Regarded as a developmental first in
Dr Hlupheka Chabalala
South Africa, Afriplex GRT is a new API based on the naturally occurring flavonoid compounds found in rooibos. It has been developed in partnership with the South African Medical Research Council and Agricultural Research Council to target specific metabolic syndrome-related dysfunctions in the body. In addition to producing extracts, Afriplex
By Abby Vorster
C
is the local agent for Activ’Inside. Riaan Botes of Arista Health with Afriplex’s responsible pharmacist, Robert Longrigg
entred on the theme ‘Harnessing Nature’s Best’, the symposium took place on 12 September at the
JSE Conference Centre in Sandton, Johannesburg. The programme featured
La uren McMilla n
local and international speakers who shared compelling information on
novel actives for nutra-ceutical applications. Memophenol is proven for its brain memory benefits, SkinAx2 for improving beauty from within and Safr’Inside for mood and emotional balance.
Regulatory developments Claims, regulations and compliance were
biodiversity, natural ingredients, regulatory
underlined by Wayne Robinson, director of
developments, market trends, APIs and
business development at Afriplex.
the more contentious subject of Cannabis
While a single complementary
and Cannabidiol.
medicine or health supplement is yet to
Biodiversity and scientific capacity
be registered by the South African Health
are key elements in directly addressing
Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA),
poverty, unemployment and inequality
Robinson said various positives have come
in our country. This is according to Dr
from the regulatory developments. ‘The
Hlupheka Chabalala of the Department of
industry has come a long way in terms of
Science and Technology, who discussed
pharmacovigilance and quality standards.
the Indigenous Knowledge (IK)-Based
It’s also noteworthy that brands are using
Bio-Diversity Innovation Programme with
compliant manufacturers and the correct
symposium delegates.
ingredients for their products.’
The programme features six platforms:
Despite the challenges associated with
African Natural Medicine; IK-Based
the regulations, it is still possible to launch
Cosmeceuticals; IK-Based Nutraceuticals;
new health supplements in South Africa.
Health Infusions (Beverages); Technology
However, Robinson advises brands to take
Transfer and Manufacturing; and Marketing
caution with claims.
and Commercialisation. All six empower
‘SAHPRA has adopted a risk-based
rural communities to become thriving societies. Using modern technology, the
this unique ingredient for products aimed
programme beneficiates indigenous
at diabetic end-users and those suffering
knowledge and brings the spirit of ubuntu
from metabolic syndrome.
into science to eradicate poverty.
This innovative French company offers three
Folicin A/T is the company’s first API phyto extract to assist with male
Powerful actives and ingredients
pattern baldness. The extract’s phyto
Afriplex offers a wide range of botanical
chemicals have been shown to be
phyto extracts and API phyto extracts
effective in reducing oxidative stress and
developed. Lauren McMillan, part of
as a 5a-reductase inhibitor for use in the
the dynamic pharmaceutical marketing
treatment of hair loss, BPH and androgenic
team, highlighted Afriplex GRT as part of
alopecia. Developed in collaboration with
this API basket. McMillan emphasised the
the CSIR, the efficacy of Folicin A/T topical
incredible evidence-based effectivity of
has been proven in vivo.
approach when it comes to claims,’ he explains. ‘The risk level of a product is determined by the type of claim and the evidence on which it’s based. If you can’t prove the claim, don’t make it and don’t market off label.’ Brands whose products are good enough, shouldn’t have to market off label. This is why it’s crucial for marketing and regulatory teams to work together to ensure compliance. •
Afriplex – www.afriplex.co.za
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
13
COMPANY FOCUS
Local relevance, global expertise
and a can-do attitude
Kirsch Pharma South Africa is celebrating its 25th anniversary. Supported by innovative operations in Europe, the local subsidiary is on a solid growth trajectory. Abby Vorster looks at the strategy behind its success in South Africa and how the global business contributes to its competitiveness.
A NEW ERA IN HEALTHCARE KIRSCH PHARMA is expanding its range of pharma products and services along the value chain with the launch of Kirsch Pharma HealthCare. This modern and flexible GMP approved production plant, based in Bissendorf, is dedicated to the production of solid dosage forms for sports and infant nutrition and the
T
pharma and diagnostics markets. Housed within a futuristic building designed by South
ransparency, ethics, consistent
African architect, Stefan Antoni, the new subsidiary
quality, personalised customer service and a close to market
Kirsch Pharma Healthcare
focus are the key contributors to
Kirsch Pharma’s ongoing success. This
quality products and meeting customers
family business was launched in Germany
individual needs, regardless of the size of
38 years ago. With a vision for growth,
their orders.’
Kirsch Pharma spread its footprint across the globe, testing foreign markets
Flexibility in focus
long before they became favourable.
Kirsch Pharma offers ingredients for
South Africa was one of those foreign
innovative formulations and individual
Herm an n Broschk
includes a 1 800m² production area, 1 200m² of storage space to accommodate 1 000 pallets and office space spanning 1 300m² with 20 designated work areas. The facility will have the capacity and expertise to produce intermediates and finished pharmaceuticals and is expected to come online soon. A modular approach has been incorporated in its design to allow for customised process steps such as granulation, micronising and tabletting. The first phase of
markets, which, before 1994,
solutions. Its portfolio includes a
was viewed with scepticism by
comprehensive range of different
investors. Yet the timing was right
products, ingredients and blends adapted
for the German company. Its
to customers’ requirements in the pharma,
local representative Holpro Fine
nutrition, veterinary and biotechnology
product or blend and compliance with the
Chemicals was facing closure
markets. These products are available in
current monographs is ensured.
at the time, so Kirsch Pharma
more than 1 000 different packaging and
made the bold move to invest
product combinations, ranging from small
documentation and the continual
in South Africa, launching the
packs to big bags.
improvement of its processes as essential
subsidiary in 1993.
In South Africa, the company’s core
production at Kirsch Pharma HealthCare will focus on sachet filling.
Kirsch Pharma sees its comprehensive
quality factors. As a result, the processes
offering includes inorganic salts and
related to the production and delivery of
helm of Kirsch Pharma South Africa since
customised blends. Broschk says
its products are executed smoothly and
2008. Global owner and MD, Mr Heinz-
there is increased demand in the
are completely traceable. ‘There is nothing
Jurgen Kirsch says Broschk continues to
market for customised blends that
that can’t be done,’ exclaims Mr Kirsch!
lead the subsidiary on a successful path.
are tested according to a company’s
The global company holds the following
‘Our strategy is based on client service,’
specific requirements.
globally relevant certifications: DIN ISO
Hermann Broschk has been at the
Broschk explains. ‘Over the years, we have
The GMP approved facility in Germany is
9001; FSSC 22000; ICH-GMP; GMP+; Kosher; MUI-Halal; AEO; SEDEX and EcoVadis.
stayed true to our word and delivered
equipped with state of the art technology
on what we could within a specialised
to meet the needs of customers in South
product portfolio.
Africa, processing raw materials sourced
A trusted supplier
from co-producers and testing
By finding the right balance in terms of local
everything the market demands, yet
them accordingly. From blending,
market demands and what it can offer,
it’s tough to remain competitive when
milling and sieving to compaction and
Kirsch Pharma South Africa has doubled
you have an expansive portfolio.
granulation, Kirsch Pharma’s flexibility
its turnover over the past two years. It also
Instead, Kirsch Pharma South Africa has
distinguishes the business on a global level.
benefits from the global company’s status as
Commodity suppliers often offer
harnessed its strengths by working within a more specialised portfolio of high
14
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
All raw materials are tested for quality assurance, a full COA is issued with every
a preferred supplier to various multinationals, supplying products to local branches.
COMPANY FOCUS
KIRSCH PHARMA FROM THEN UNTIL NOW 1980 Kirsch Pharma is established in Isernhagen, Germany.
2004 The company implements SAP-R3 globally.
1985 Kirsch Pharma relocates to Salzgitter.
Kirsch Pharma’s GMP approved blending and processing plant
2005 Kirsch Pharma Australia is
1987 The company receives its first manufacturing licence for drug production.
founded in Sydney, Australia.
2006 The company secures HACCP certification from DQS.
1991 Kirsch Pharma España is founded in
2011
Madrid, Spain, with a branch
Kirsch Pharma Shanghai is
in Barcelona.
founded in Pudong, China.
1993 Kirsch Pharma South Africa is founded in Johannesburg.
1995 The company achieves DIN ISO 9001 certification.
1996 A representative office is established in Moscow, Russia.
2013 - 2014
At its Salzgitter premises in Germany, Kirsch Pharma is equipped with extensive warehousing space and infrastructure to manage resources in a sustainable manner
The company receives ICH-GMP and GMP+ certification.
2015 Kirsch Pharma HealthCare is founded.
2016 The company reaches a milestone of employing more than 150 employees worldwide
1997 A representative office is established in Wuxi, China.
and expands its office in Salzgitter by 800m². It also secures FSSC 22000 certification from DQS.
2001 Kirsch Pharma Asia Pacific is founded in Singapore.
An interior view of Kirsch Pharma HealthCare
Broschk comments: ‘We will continue to supply products based on internationally
2017
approved quality standards while
A new business unit is established in Bissendorf, Germany.
October 2018 Kirsch Pharma South Africa celebrates its 25 anniversary. th
maintaining our trustworthy image among our South African customers. To accommodate our continued growth, Kirsch Pharma South Africa will be moving to new premises in 2019.’ Globally, Kirsch Pharma founded a USA subsidiary in 2018 to directly support multinational pharma companies
third party supplier. While businesses and
throughout North America. The company is
provides employment to approximately
industries have become global, Kirsch
also extending its portfolio of various custom
17 people, who contribute to maintaining
Pharma continues to focus on responding
made blends produced in Germany.
the integrity and focus of the business.
to customers’ individual requirements with
Its local infrastructure includes extensive
regional expertise. ‘This is the reason why
Pharma will continue to conquer the markets
warehousing and office space, which are
we have founded subsidiaries and
it supplies with measurable, reliable and
both ISO 9001 compliant.
numerous representations worldwide,’
compliant solutions that meet the changing
Mr Kirsch explains.
needs of the healthcare, nutrition, biotech
Based in Isando, the company
Kirsch Pharma South Africa’s customers are located throughout the SADC region
In South Africa, Kirsch Pharma is poised
and in east Africa. The company handles
for long term success. This is as a result
its own logistics in Gauteng and outsources
of a sustainable business model that has
all regional and cross border logistics to a
endured for the past 25 years.
In South Africa and worldwide, Kirsch
and veterinary industries. •
Kirsch Pharma – www.kirschpharma.com
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
15
QUALITY CONTROL
Breakthrough in standardising
antibiotic susceptibility testing
A new study makes recommendations for combining two different methods to test bacterial susceptibility of antibiotics. These suggestions could help improve reproducibility between laboratories and provide more clinically relevant information for treating infections. By Dr Alison Halliday
E
very day, thousands of experimental
bacterial colonies on a subculture by
and diagnostic laboratories around
99.9 percent. However, this test attracts
the world carry out antimicrobial
criticism due to its poor reproducibility
susceptibility testing in search of
between laboratories. MBC testing involves
an effective antibiotic to use against a
broth dilution and re-growth of bacteria in
bacterial strain. Yet results can vary widely
antibiotic-free media. The potential variables
between laboratories, prompting the need
include the size of the inoculum, sample
for standardised protocols to improve
mixing and growth phase of the bacteria.
reproducibility and reliability of results. One of the main techniques used by laboratories
A merged approach
is to measure the minimum inhibitory
Assessing both the MBC and MIC may be
concentration (MIC).
a more useful strategy to determine the
Assessing both the MBC and MIC may be a more useful strategy to determine the clinical relevance of an antibiotic
clinical relevance of an antibiotic.
This gauges the lowest antibiotic concentration that inhibits the visible growth of a microorganism after incubation for 16
A new study, published in the Journal of Microbiological Methods, carried out an
Elga LabWater’s Purelab flex system is ideal for research laboratories.
objective, detailed comparison of a range
for the best methods to assess which
of different methodologies to determine the
antibiotics are effective against a bacterial
MIC and MBC1.
strain. These methods will help improve
The researchers tested two bacterial strains,
reproducibility across laboratories, gain
P.aeruginosa PA01 and E.coli ATCC 25922,
more clinically relevant data and enable
against four antibiotics:
a better understanding of the action of
1. gentamicin 2. tobramycin
antibiotic drugs. To find out more about laboratory water
3. ciprofloxacin
purification systems for your research needs
4. colistin.
visit www.labotec.co.za, Elga Labwater’s
They also tested S.aureus against
approved partner in South Africa. For more
vancomycin.
useful articles visit www.elgalabwater.com. •
Preparation and sample analysis protocol
to 20 hours. The MIC test has limitations.
involved the use of ultrapure water purified
It doesn’t reveal whether the drug kills
using Purelab Flex apparatus from Elga
REFERENCES:
the bacteria, or just halts its growth and
LabWater. The team determined the MIC
1. Klodzinska et al. Combining diagnostic methods for
even more crucial, MIC testing is not
using broth microdilution, a calorimetric
good at predicting the antibiotic’s actual
method and a microscopy-based screening
effectiveness within the body.
system. Flurophore staining was used to
antimicrobial susceptibility testing – a comparative approach. Journal of Microbiological Methods 144 (2018), page 177 to 185.
determine the MBC and subsequently
A killer concentration
compared with the broth regrowth method.
Another measure is to define an antibiotic’s minimal bactericidal concentration (MBC),
New recommendations
which outlines the lowest concentration
After evaluating the results, the researchers
needed to kill the bacteria.
recommended different combinations
This is especially important for patients
of methods to determine the MIC and
with inflammatory diseases or who are
MBC, depending on whether time, cost
immunocompromised. Their immune
or sensitivity is the main priority. They also
systems may not be working well enough
emphasised the importance of uniform
to fully eliminate the pathogens, should an
protocols across different laboratories,
antibiotic only inhibit their growth.
including a suggested standardisation of
To determine the MBC, a test is done
the time point for reading MIC results after
to ascertain the lowest concentration of
20 hours. This innovative and important
an antibiotic that reduces the number of
study proposes new recommendations
16
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
ABOUT After completing an undergraduate degree in biochemistry and genetics at Sheffield University (UK), Dr Halliday was awarded a PhD in human molecular genetics at the University of Newcastle (UK). As a University College London senior postdoctoral research fellow, Dr Halliday investigated the genes involved in a childhood obesity syndrome. She then went on to work at Cancer Research UK for 10 years and currently specialises in writing about research in the life sciences, medicines and healthcare sectors.
QUALITY CONTROL
Syringe pumps based on accuracy and precision
Built for automation in research laboratories, modern syringe pumps are ideal for applications ranging from simple infusions to complex pumping programmes. DG Lab Services reveals how these novel tools have evolved.
S
The New Era range of syringe, peristaltic and infusion pumps and accessories for research facilities
yringe pumps have been in
infusion pumps in research. The early 21st
microfluidics, chemical development and
use for more than 50 years by
century saw the development of smart
mass spectrometry where smaller volumes,
scientists and researchers to save
pumps, which resulted in increased
in the region of nanolitre accuracy, are
lives and conduct high impact
versatility of these pumps for research
required. In drug development, pharma
purposes and patient safety.
manufacturers are highly dependent on
research. They are used to control the flow of fluid with a high level
precision research pumps during preclinical
Value for money
of precision. Researchers originally developed infusion pumps for controlled drug delivery. The first infusion pump was invented by Christopher Wren in 1658. According to DG Lab Services, further
DID YOU KNOW?
There are two broad types of syringe pumps, including
Research pumps typically handle smaller volumes and offer additional features that benefit research but are impractical for in vivo use.
developments continued only in the 20th century, progressing from an
development, clinical trials and in large scale manufacturing. Programmable syringe pumps,
medical infusion pumps and
utilised for their high accuracy and
research syringe pumps.
performance, play a vital role in each of
Medical infusion pumps are
these areas for the controlled delivery of
used to deliver controlled
solutions for analysis and assay. They are
quantities of fluids such as
also a critical component in determining
nutrients, drugs and blood to patients where safety is key in
infusion pump for use in chemotherapy
order to prevent any harm or injury.
to computerised pumps and pump
Research syringe pumps are used in
miniaturisation – increasing the use of
R&D laboratories in applications such as
if a new synthesised drug will be of therapeutic benefit. •
DG Lab Services – www.dglabservices.com
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18
Product_Advert_Packo_SA_177x130mm.indd 1
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
08-08-18 16:56
QUALITY CONTROL
A hasty developer’s guide to stability testing Speeding up the development process to get products on shelf faster has resulted in many brands not wanting to spend time on stability testing. But is it acceptable to use accelerated testing to determine a product’s longevity in real time?
Spectroscopic Solutions for the Validated Pharmaceutical Industry
I
t’s tempting to want to introduce a product to market without the necessary stability testing, yet it’s not worth the risk in the long run. While technology and innovative testing methods have reduced the time needed to test a product, stability testing remains time
consuming. According to Robyn Brown of Stability Testing Services, a division of Botanichem, many developers still skip stability testing because they perceive it as a waste of time. ‘Although three months seems like a long time, a 12 week (or three month) test is considered “accelerated” testing. It equates to the full 24 month shelf life and is enough to give a good indication
ALPHA
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FT-NIR Spectrometer www.bruker.com/tango
of stability,’ explains Brown. ‘Therefore, accelerated testing is worthwhile for peace of mind that your product is going to retain its intended physical and chemical quality for the duration of its intended shelf life.’
What are the options? There are other options, which do not require extended testing periods and should be carried out routinely during the development phase, to get an idea of whether a product is likely to be stable for 12 weeks. However, these options cannot replace the full 12 week test. For example, the 50° Celsius temperature test, which takes just
BRAVO
Handheld Raman Spectrometer www.bruker.com/bravo
two weeks, is a good way to evaluate whether a formulation is likely to be stable at 40° Celsius for the full 12 weeks. If it doesn’t withstand exposure to the high 50° Celsius temperature for two weeks then it is not likely to last 12 weeks at 40° Celsius, which is the minimum you want from a product. It is also imperative a formulation is not changed or adjusted once stability testing is complete. If so, the stability test results on the initial formulation will become invalid. Even the smallest change such as fragrance, colour or preservative, could change the long term stability of a product. Formulators should also bear in mind that one
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stability test does not cover every batch of a particular product.
Best practice for your brand ‘A stability test is only valid for the production batch size and equipment used, so an initial test would not be valid when scaling up production. Equipment mixes differently when different volumes are considered, which can lead to a loss of stability,’ Brown explains. Best practice is to ensure brand owners and manufacturers plan and budget for at least some stability testing. Simply skipping this vital step of product development can cost more as result of product
Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FTIR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and costeffective compliance.
Contact us for more details www.bruker.com/optics
failure, recall and damage to your brand’s reputation. •
Innovation with Integrity
FTIR/FT-NIR/Raman
Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
19
AEROSOLS
Celebrating successful
business partnerships
On 26 September, Puregas hosted its awards evening at Fine Living by David Muirhead, in Parkmore, Johannesburg. The award-winning Doctor Riaad Moosa had guests in stitches during the event with his hilarious antics and excellent stand up comedy.
F
or many years, the Puregas Awards
According to Mitchell, it is hoped
have honoured customers for
that DoL will benchmark the European
their achievements in safety,
approach when making the changes
compliance and business
to the regulations. It is also hoped there
excellence. This year, Puregas celebrated
will be specific threshold quantities for
its long term partners, which have
hazardous chemicals, different levels of
contributed to the success of the
MHIs with different thresholds, different
company since it was established in 1971.
requirements for each level of an MHI,
Partners from the past 25 and 40 years
more focus on the management of
were honoured by Puregas chairman,
MHIs, a standardised approach to the
Royden Vice.
risk assessment procedure and for more
The company also used the event
Riaad Moosa
to highlight forthcoming regulatory changes regarding major hazard installations (MHIs). The new draft regulations on MHIs, published last year by the Department of Labour (DoL), are intended to tighten compliance within MHI workplaces while protecting the public against major incidents. A MHI refers to installations where any substance is produced, processed, used, handled or stored in such form and quantity that it has the potential to cause a major incident or an occurrence of catastrophic proportions, resulting from the use of plant and machinery, or from activities at a workplace. According to DoL, MHIs are found mostly in petrochemical works or facilities and refineries, chemical works and production plants, at compressed air manufacturers or users such as liquefied petroleum gas, nitrogen gas, medical oxygen, hydrogen gas and at chemical stores and distribution centres.
Expert advice Debra Mitchell from ISHECON was invited to speak at the Puregas Awards, to bring the industry up to speed on why the regulations are set to change. The main reasons are: • classification of a site as an MHI
is unclear
• AIA’s produce vastly different types of risk assessment • notification procedures leave the decision making vague • emergency planning is often inadequate.
20
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
THE PUREGAS 25-YEAR CLUB • ARAN ADDITIVES • MPACT • INDIGO COSMETICS • RICHARD HALLAM • CLARKE COLOURS • REVLON
• RB, FORMERLY RECKITT BENCKISER • UNILEVER • ROLFE LABORATORIES • DABUR, FORMERLY CTL • PEGGY VAN MANEN • SMP
AEROSOLS
Debra Mitchell
THE PUREGAS 40-YEAR CLUB • • • •
NORMAN SANAN SC JOHNSON, FORMERLY JOHNSON WAX TIGER BRANDS, INITIALLY ROBERTSONS ORYX ENERGIES, FORMERLY BP GAS
guidance to be provided on
of high quality speciality gases, gas
while protecting the environment in
emergency plans.
equipment, CO2, ammonia and LPG.
everything it does. The company’s efforts
Its focus is on ensuring quality and
have earned it the ISO 9001:2015 quality
Africa’s leading suppliers of purified and
customer service and it is committed to
blended hydrocarbon gas propellants and
offering its customers top level service in all
foam blowing products. The company is
areas of its business. Puregas is passionate
also recognised as an emerging supplier
about the safety of its staff and customers,
certification since 1996. •
Puregas – www.puregas.co.za
Working together to create
Pure Excellence T 011 903 9760 • F 011 903 9766
Business with Integrity Committed to Safety & Quality
Puregas is recognised as one of southern
www.puregas.co.za • info@puregas.co.za
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
21
AEROSOLS
Quality, service and innovation in aerosol dispensing For the first time in the history of the South African aerosols industry, filling statistics have declined. Yet Precision Valve South Africa remains optimistic. The company was recently awarded a major project by a multinational and is set to benefit from the ONCAP acquisition. By Abby Vorster
I
n August, ONCAP announced its
are excited to partner with Precision’s
acquisition of Precision Global
management team to accelerate the
(Precision), a leading international
company’s growth both organically and
manufacturer of dispensing solutions.
through acquisitions for years to come.’
These include more than 12 000 SKUs,
CEO of Precision, Mario Barbero
which are sold into the personal care,
adds: ‘ONCAP’s strong investment
household, pharmaceutical, food and
track record and extensive experience
beverage, and industrial end markets,
in the packaging industry makes it
‘Precision serves a growing market
an ideal partner for us. Together we’ll
with high quality, reliable and innovative
continue to invest in our business with
products that are critical to its customers
an ongoing focus to be the best in class
and end users,’ says Ryan Mashinter,
global supplier of quality, service and
a managing director at ONCAP. ‘We
innovation in all regions.’
A WORLD LEADER PRECISION GLOBAL invented the modern aerosol valve in 1949. Today it is the world’s largest supplier of valves selling more than four billion annually. It also produces and sells two billion actuators on an annual basis. The company’s portfolio includes aerosol valves, actuators, pumps, caps and related aerosol accessories, custom closures and other specialty dispensing solutions.
Crest Chemicals
Your Trusted Advisor PG USP applications Aerosols Shaving Products Haircare Skincare Oral-care Pharmaceutical Cosmetic 2 year shelf life Inherent Antimicrobial properties Contact us: Johannesburg (011)254 3300, Cape Town (021)534 3140, Durban (031)9025324, East London (043) 726 8713 and Port Elizabeth (041)453 1981
BETTER TOGETHER 22
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
AEROSOLS
Our valve assembly operations are crucial to the future of the global business
packaging and injection moulding, and he is on the executive committee of the Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa.
Shared expertise and best practices By introducing centres of excellence global manufacturing companies can improve their regional and international competitiveness. They also provide for a more formalised structure to harness
Headquartered in South Carolina,
people and/or assets with expertise
USA, Precision employs more than
in a specific process or product while
1 500 people across 18 sites located in
focusing on developing and sharing
15 countries, including South Africa.
best practices.
Precision Valve South Africa (PVSA),
To better serve a more globalised
based in Rosslyn, Pretoria, is a key
market, PVSA is focusing on improving
contributor to the
its supply chain expertise by reducing
global business. Robin
complexities within
Rigney, who joined the
the business. ‘In preparation to serve
company as managing
the market on an ongoing
director in November 2017, comments: ‘PVSA’s
basis, PVSA is smartening
moulding of spray
up its supply chain
through domes – both
management by introducing
one part and multiple
forecasting/planning IT
component – as well
systems to streamline the
as our valve assembly
Robin Rigney
business. Because we supply
operations are crucial
a safety critical product,
to the future of the
we need to leverage our
global business. Precision Global is in the
technical expertise off a
phase of identifying centres of excellence
global base in order to remain customer
for component manufacturing and South
centric,’ Rigney adds. ‘Precision has
Africa remains an important part of
the largest global footprint of all valve
this network.’
manufacturers in the world which
Rigney has over 30 years’ experience in the packaging industry and has several innovative projects under his belt. His extensive expertise ranges from aerosols and closures to plastic
Precision Valve SA (PTY) Ltd phone: +27 12 541 3340 email: teresa.pereira@precisionglobal.com
puts us in a good position to offer local solutions.’ •
Precision Valve South Africa – www.precisionglobal.com
Valve components and actuator products designed and produced by Precision Global
www.precisionglobal.com
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
23
INDUSTRY TALK
Transforming the women
of tomorrow, today
The TechnoGirl programme opens doors to opportunities in science and technology. Demonstrating leadership in the chemical sector, IMCD South Africa is involved in the job shadowing component, which is perceived as the most important opportunity offered by the programme. By Abby Vorster
In-programme learners, Kefilwe Moloi and Basetsana Mogagabe with IMCD South Africa’s customer solutions manager, Ana Da Costa
A
lthough notable strides have been made in the field
of gender equality in South Africa, according to Unicef, women remain at a disadvantage when entering careers in science,
In-programme learners Katlego Tsatsi and Promise Mamome with IMCD South Africa’s applications technologist, Gladys Syebele
DID YOU KNOW?
to mentoring four girls in
In 2010, Unicef surveyed girls who had gone through the programme. It found 94 percent of them had a better understanding of the working world and the skills required to be successful in STEM careers.
technology, engineering and mathematics (STEM).
partnership with the
Caroline Cathcart of Unicef Canada, the Department of Women’s Sylvia Stevens-Maziya and Linton Carter of Unicef Canada
It employs more women than men in its South African office and has helped
TechnoGirl programme.
one of its female employees establish a
By contributing to
sustainable car wash business. In Ghana,
minimising skills
through the Global Shea Alliance, IMCD
shortages with regard
buys shea butter kernels from rural women
to STEM, we can
which are exported to Holland to produce
increase the potential pool of skilled individuals
who could potentially be employed by IMCD.’ The emphasis
shea butter. IMCD Benelux is a member of the Global Shea Alliance, which trained 70 800 shea collectors and processors in 2017 and facilitated direct sales that
To address the deficit, Unicef, in
is on workplace exposure in the job
increased the income of rural African
partnership with the South African
shadowing component, so the girls
women by 46 percent.
National Department of Basic Education,
receive one on one interactions with
established the TechnoGirl mentorship
various professionals within the company.
programme in 2005. So far, it has
A day to celebrate IMCD South Africa has been nominated as
Trust and corporate partners, like
IMCD South Africa is a strong believer in education
IMCD South Africa. The speciality
This includes valuable time in both IMCD’s
and alumni to showcase its involvement in
chemicals distributor is involved in the job
food and personal care laboratories, soft
the programme.
shadowing component of the TechnoGirl
skills training, visits to third parties such
programme. This is implemented on a
as manufacturers and logistics providers,
the four in-programme learners being
structured and systematic basis over a
guidance on CV preparation and mock
mentored at the company displayed their
three-year period. Select Grade 9 girls
interviews. For promising students, there
newly acquired skills by formulating a hair
are placed at a host organisation like
is also a possibility of being awarded a
care product in the personal care lab and
IMCD South Africa, where they attend job
bursary for their tertiary studies.
ice cream in the food lab.
benefitted over 9 000 girls from rural and urban disadvantaged communities who show academic promise. This is thanks to support from the National Department of Women, the State Information Technology Agency (SITA), the TechnoGirl
shadowing sessions on an annual basis
IMCD South Africa is a strong believer
a successful job shadowing implementation site. On 23 August, the company hosted delegates from Unicef Canada and Unicef South Africa, government officials from the departments of women and education, representatives from the TechnoGirl Trust, SITA officials and TechnoGirl beneficiaries
Under the guidance of IMCD’s employees,
By supporting TechnoGirl, companies like
over three consecutive school holidays
in education. The company has created
IMCD South Africa have the opportunity to
until they pass Grade 11.
a culture of staff stimulation and training
demonstrate private sector leadership in
for the past 36 years, because Brinkmann
the country. •
Equality means business
believes ‘you can never be educated
Otto Brinkmann, MD of IMCD South
enough’. The company is also passionate
Africa, comments: ‘We have committed
about creating opportunities for women.
24
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com/worldwide
IMCD | Tel +27 11 5704260 | Fax +27 11 9740186 www.imcdgroup.com | Info@imcdsa.co.za
SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS
Daily skin protection
and detoxification
Lipochroman molecule is a powerful antioxidative ingredient based on the structure of vitamin E. Alicia Giménez, Olga Laporta, Marie Ollagnier, Eulalia González and Raquel Delgado from Lipotec Active Ingredients and Lubrizol discuss the molecule’s proven antioxidative and anti-ageing benefits.
X
enobiotics or the accumulative
Figure 1: Protein carbonylation levels
external chemical substances and reactive species have harmful effects on the skin.
Luckily skin has a system of endogenous defences, consisting of low-molecular weight antioxidants, like co-enzmye Q10 and vitamins C and E, which directly quench reactive oxygen species (ROS).¹ The small prolinerich repeat proteins (SPRRs), located in the stratum corneum, have
DID YOU KNOW?
Lipochroman molecule (INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol) is based on the γ–tocopherol vitamin E form present in vegetables and plants. It shows powerful antioxidative properties and may aid the processes of detoxification. non-treated cells.
a direct role in scavenging
Cells increased the gene
polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons in the atmosphere. Upon photoactivation by
expression of antioxidative
UVA and/or visible light, it increases the
systems are also responsible for the
elements, SPRR proteins and SOD and
generation of reactive species that can
removal of ROS and xenobiotics.
GPX enzymes. Genes related to GSH
induce DNA damage.
Superoxide dismutase (SOD) catalyses
synthesis and recycling were also
the conversion of superoxide anion
induced. Once GSH has been oxidised
incubated for two hours at 37°C with
to hydrogen peroxide, which can
by free radicals, it is regenerated
30µg/mL Lipochroman molecule in four
be further detoxified by glutathione
by glutathione reductase (GSR).
micrometres of pyrene. The cells were
(GSH) peroxidase (GPX).³ The cellular
Cells treated with the Lipochroman
irradiated with UVA/visible light (320
detoxification of xenobiotics generally
molecule produced an upregulation
to 800nm at 45KJ/m²), for 69 seconds
consists of three phases.
of genes common in all phases of
at four degrees Celsius. DNA breaks
xenobiotics metabolism.
induced by photoactivated pyrene were
ROS.² Enzymatic detoxification
Neutralise and detox
Human normal keratinocytes were
analysed using the alkaline comet assay.
The antioxidative power (AP) of
Inhibit and protect
Lipochroman molecule was assessed
In oxidative and carbonyl stress, there
by 99.3 percent, providing significant
using electron spin resonance
is an increase in adducts and cross-
protection against the genotoxic effects
spectroscopy and the AP method. The
links formed on proteins due to the
of pyrene.
reactivity and AP parameters are typical
RCS reaction. This results in protein
values of each antioxidant.
carbonylation, which contributes to
Antioxidant booster
tissue dysfunction.
A clinical test was performed on 20 female
The antioxidative properties of Lipochroman molecule were distinctly
Human dermal fibroblasts were
The molecule reduced DNA damage
volunteers aged between 33 and 57, who
higher when compared to antioxidative
treated Lipochroman molecule for
applied a cream containing 0.05 percent
agents, such as vitamin E, grape seed
24 hours and irradiated with UVB
Lipochroman molecule on a randomised
extract and tea extract. After being stored
(0.52 J/cm²) for five minutes. The
half side of the face and a placebo
in a solution for 24 and 48 hours, AP
degree of protein carbonylation in
formulation on the other side. The skin’s
stability and the reactivity of the molecule
the cells was assessed using ELISA.
antioxidative properties and the anti-ageing
were evaluated and found to remain
While the UVB irradiation induced the
efficacy were assessed after 14 and 28 days.
stable. Gene expression modulation
formation of protein carbonyls, the
was studied using microarrays in human
Lipochroman molecule treatment
was performed in epidermal samples taken
epidermal keratinocytes treated with
reduced protein carbonyl damage
by tape stripping to test the total antioxidant
50µg/mL Lipochroman molecule for
in a statistically significant manner
capacity of the skin. This increased by 21.3
24 hours. The fold variation in gene
compared to the control (see Figure
and 36.7 percent after 14 and 28 days
expression was calculated regarding the
1). Pyrene is one of the most abundant
respectively (***p<0.001.)
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| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
A ferric reducing antioxidant power assay
SKIN CARE Using a cutometer, skin elasticity was measured on the cheek
Figure 2: Changes in two mechanical parameters of skin elasticity versus initial time: ***p<0.001; versus the placebo: *p<0.05 for R2 (14 days) and R5; ***p<0.001 for R2 (28 days)
and two parameters were evaluated. First, overall elasticity (R2), which represents the skin’s ability to recover to its basal state after deformation. Second, net elasticity (R5), which indicates the recovery after deformation due to the elastic component of the skin. Suppleness was improved, measured both as gross elasticity and as the elastic component of the
Lipotec – www.lipotec.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
Figure 3: Reduction in the wrinkle depth parameter. Average and maximal values are shown versus initial time: ***p<0.001 and versus the placebo: *p<0.05
skin (see Figure 2). Wrinkle depth was measured in the crow’s feet area by means of a real 3D microtopography
REFERENCES:
imaging system based on fringe
1. Briganti S, Picardo M. Antioxidant activity, lipid peroxidation and skin diseases. What’s new. J Eur
projection. The depth of wrinkles
Acad Dermatol Venereol. 17(6): 663-9, 2003
decreased (see Figure 3), by an average 21.3 percent and up to 47.2 percent after 28 days of treatment. Lipotec’s Lipochroman molecule
2. Vermeij WP1, Alia A, Backendorf C. ROS quenching potential of the epidermal cornified cell envelope. J Invest Dermatol. 131(7):1435-41, 2011. 3. Rinnerthaler M, Bischof J, Streubel MK, Trost A et al.
can be sourced in South Africa from
Oxidative stress in aging human skin. Biomolecules.
Savannah Fine Chemicals. •
21;5(2):545-89, 2015.
Provides antioxidant shelter and promotes complete detox
NEW TEST
21.3% increase in skin antioxidative capacity in 14 days.
Triple protection and detox from in & out.
Improved skin
appearance.
SAVANNAH Fine Chemicals (Pty) Ltd Tel: +27 (11) 856 4500 E-mail: info@savannah.co.za www.lipotec.com All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation or its affiliates. © 2014, 2015, 2017, 2018 The Lubrizol Corporation.
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
27
SKIN CARE
9 actives for
beautiful skin Ashland has made great advances in skin care research with its Vincience Biofunctionals portfolio of active ingredients. The portfolio offers novel and effective routes to beautiful skin and is available in South Africa from Millchem.
Actopontine • bioinspired by nature to optimise skin matrix architecture • INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) sh-Hexapeptide-2 • preservative system: sodium benzoate • recommended use level: one percent (clinically tested at one percent) Actopontine is associated with an in vitro increase in proteins critical for building and remodelling the extracellular matrix, including dermatopontin, collagen I, collagen III, laminin-V, fibronectin and alpha-3 integrin. The active has shown in vitro to enhance the proteins involved in cell shape and integrity. It is ideal for the potential enhancement of skin’s elasticity and density, giving it a youthful appearance.
Caspaline 14 • synthetic peptide to help enhance skin’s natural UV defence and fight the visible signs of ageing.
ATPeptide IS • an energy boosting peptide specially designed to
• INCI: Water (and) Propanediol (and) Hexapeptide-42
help revitalise ageing skin and help smooth the
• preservative system: sodium benzoate
appearance of cellulite prone skin
• Recommended use level: 0.5 to one percent
• INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Tripeptide-3
(clinically tested at 0.5 percent)
• preservative-free
Caspaline 14 helps maintain the expression of
• recommended use level: 0.5 to 1.5 percent
caspase-14 (in vitro and ex vivo) and the expression
ATPeptide IS supports the maintenance of ATP levels
of filaggrin (a precursor of NMF) (ex vivo). It also helps
(in vitro), increases the levels of intracellular calcium
limit skin damage from UV (ex vivo and in vivo).
(in vitro) and assists with lipolysis (in vitro).
Blumilight • premium cocoa peptide for blue light pollution protection • INCI: Water/Aqua (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Extract • preservative-free • recommended use level: one percent (clinically tested at one percent)
GP4G SP • aquatic energising and protective plankton nucleotides that help skin absorb environmental shock • INCI: Water (and) Artemia Extract
Phytocohesine PSP
• preservative system: phenoxyethanol, potassium
• visibly improves skin appearance and helps protect
sorbate • recommended use level: one to two percent (clinically tested at two percent)
it from environmental stress • INCI: Sodium Beta-Sitosteryl Sulfate (and) BetaSitosterol
During blue light stress, Blumilight has shown to
In vitro results show GP4G SP may absorb or may
• preservative-free
decrease reactive oxygen species (in vitro) and maintain
prevent ultraviolet, infrared and heat shocks; oxidative
• recommended use level: 0.1 to one percent
opsin photoreceptors (in vitro). It also increases in
and mitochondria stress; DNA and protein damage;
collagen I, fibrillin-1 and syndecan-4 (in vitro and
and ROS production. GP4G SP has also shown in vitro
Phytocohesine PSP helps reinforce the skin barrier,
ex vivo) and visibly improves the network of elastin
to absorb cold shocks and prevent DNA transcription
enhances keratin synthesis (in vitro), protects skin
fibres (ex vivo),
while slowing down protein translation. The active may
moisture from UV and chemical aggression and helps
skin elasticity (in vivo) and wrinkles (in vivo).
also help limit the appearance of skin ageing (in vitro).
improve hydration in normal and dry skin.
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| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
(clinically tested at one percent)
SKIN CARE
Signaline S
Telosense
• inspired by the science of cellular activation signalling and
• inspired by the science of telomeres and anti-
designed to improve and maintain youthful-looking skin • INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil (and) Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Extract
ageing • INCI: Water (and) Glycerin (and) Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein (and) Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
• preservative-free
• preservative system: sodium benzoate
• recommended use level: 0.25 to 0.5 percent
• recommended use level: 0.5 to one percent
Signaline S optimises skin renewal, increases the intracellular
(clinically tested at one percent)
ATP level (in vitro) and intracellular calcium (in vitro), and helps
Telosense is associated with increasing an
with dermal renewal and ECM synthesis.
important element of the Telomere Sheltering Complex (in vitro) and lamin A expression in ageing cells (in vitro). It is also associated with
Vital ET • a unique biofunctional complex of tocopheryl phosphate (vitamin E derivative) designed for sensitive skin issues • INCI: Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates
reducing the accumulation of cellular ageing markers, suggesting cellular senescence is delayed and cell longevity improved (in vitro). It helps improve skin’s appearance and reduces the appearance of wrinkles.
• preservative system: phenoxyethanol, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid • recommended use level: one percent Vital ET decreases the appearance of redness and clinically
Ashland – www.ashland.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za
reduces the appearance of UV-induced redness. It also decreases skin’s sensitivity to harsh environments. Clinical studies have shown Vital ET reduces shaving-induced redness and discomfort in sensitive skin and reduces the appearance of redness of acne lesions.
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
29
SKIN CARE
Beauty and science encapsulated for better results Delivery systems in the anti-ageing category are key to ensuring the safe use and efficacy of a product. They also provide formulators with a vehicle to overcome formulation challenges associated with lipophilic actives.
L
ong-lasting beauty well into the
drawbacks of retinol. This
senior years is a ubiquitous consumer
popular active ingredient
demand. Users of anti-ageing skin
has been combined with
care seek products that combat the
advanced technology
visible signs of ageing, such as lines, wrinkles
to produce BergaCare
and a loss of skin elasticity or moisture. There
SmartLipids Retinol – an
are plenty of effective anti-ageing actives on
innovative delivery system.
the market; retinol and coenzyme Q10 are
The technology is the result
among the most well-known examples.
of joint development efforts
Despite its popularity and proven anti-
between Berg+Schmidt
ageing efficacy, retinol is highly unstable
and the University of Berlin,
and can cause skin irritations. BergaCare
in Germany. It is also an
SmartLipids technology was developed to
ideal example of how to commercialise an
overcome these challenges. This high tech
academic invention in a consumer
active delivery system effectively brings
relevant application.
anti-ageing actives into the skin in a safe and controlled manner while providing
Technology in focus
additional benefits to the formulator.
BergaCare SmartLipids consist of tiny particles made of a complex mixture of
A powerful active
liquid oils and solid waxes, generally
Retinol is one of the cosmetics industry’s
lipids (see Figure 1).
go-to anti-ageing actives. If used in a daily
They are typically smaller than one
routine it can lead to smoother skin and
micrometre (µm), so they are also called
reduction of wrinkles.
submicron particles. The active ingredient,
Unfortunately, retinol cannot be stored for
Figure 1: The structure of a submicron lipid particle from BergaCare SmartLipids
in this case retinol, is embedded within
an extended period because it is chemically
the particles and physically protected
unstable. It can also cause reddening
from external aggressors such as oxygen
and skin irritations, which can force some
and light. The submicron particles are
consumers to stop using the product.
suspended and stabilised in water. This
There is now a solution to overcome these
way, they can simply be added to a
formulation, where they disperse in the water phase while staying in their solid particle form. Retinol is much more stable against degradation when encapsulated in a lipid mixture. In testing, this system was compared to non-encapsulated retinol at the same concentration. After six months of storage almost 90 percent of the initial encapsulated retinol remained intact, while the ‘free’ retinol was present at only 30 percent. With the free retinol, more than two thirds of the active were lost to degradation while the BergaCare SmartLipids delivery system ensures the sensitive active is protected. As soon as the cosmetics product is applied to the skin, BergaCare SmartLipids form a
• Contract manufacture of bath/body/beauty/anti-ageing products • We have no brands of our own and therefore do not compete with our customers • Offer a turnkey operation from concept to launch of all products • Formulation development for local and international markets • Perform stability/micro testing for all products • Source new packaging locally and internationally • Sun protection
Tel: +27 (0)12 803 7999/+27 (0)12 803 0761/+27 (0)83 285 8830 Email: andre@serendipitytoiletries.com/ madelein@serendipitytoiletries.com | www.serendipitytoiletries.co.za
30
Serendipity.indd 1
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
2018/04/05 12:07 PM
SKIN CARE SmartLipids NatWhite, which offers a gentle brightening effect through the use
Retinol is much more stable against degradation when encapsulated in a lipid mixture
of lemongrass oil. Encapsulated UV filters are also under development. The only requirement for encapsulating actives is their solubility in lipids. For other actives that are poorly soluble in both oil and water, Berg + Schmidt offers another technological solution to enhance their effectiveness, called BergaCare SmartCrystals. In this application, pure active crystals are reduced in size to below one micrometre.
uniform protective layer or second skin. The retinol is then gradually released over a prolonged period, which avoids putting a one-shot concentration on
As a result, the solubility and dissolution Figure 2: Skin reddening is reduced through the use of encapsulated retinol in the form of BergaCare SmartLipids Retinol
increased while the bioavailability is enhanced. BergaCare SmartCrystals is
the skin. The potential for irritation and
applicable to many poorly soluble actives,
reddening is considerably reduced
Diversity and flexibility
(see Figure 2). The lipid component of
BergaCare SmartLipids can be tailored
the system has the ability to restore the
to customers’ needs. The specific active
natural skin barrier of stressed skin and
and the rate of release can be modified.
can further enhance the penetration of
The technology is also available with
retinol through its occlusive effect.
Coenzyme Q10 – BergaCare SmartLipids
After passing into the skin, the retinol
rate of the active ingredient is significantly
Q10. A BergaBright range has also
can deploy its powerful anti-ageing
been developed, including BergaBright
effects to the user’s full advantage.
SmartLipids Glabridin and BergaBright
such as rutin, hesperidin, and ascorbyl palmitate. Berg+Schmidt’s advanced delivery systems are available in South Africa from Afrisil. •
Afrisil – karin@afrisil.com Berg+Schmidt – www.berg-schmidt.de/en
Sun Care Solvents and Emollients Finsolv® esters provide effective solvation of organic UV filters and impart a light, non-greasy feel to the skin. The range also includes Sunsolv® BOS, a solvent, emollient and dispersant for inorganic filters that helps photostablize avobenzone. Activemol is a range of non-greasy, hydrophobic aliphatic esters that deliver a unique, dry emolliency to skin, a distinct after-feel and silky texture to formulations. Dispersants Dispersun DSP dispersants stabilize dispersions of inorganic sunscreens; spread pigments evenly, optimize UV absorption for high SPF protection, reduce whitening and improve texture. Dispersions Our Dispersun dispersions of inorganic sunscreen actives are easy to use in high SPF sun care formulations. Skin Care Additives These are a family of unique, natural extracts that defend against UV induced skin damage and gently soothe the skin.
Shonna Twynham | Tel: 27 (0)11 922 1830 | Mobile: +27(0)79 372 0761 | Fax: +27(0) 11 976 1706 Email: Shonna.Twynham@chemsystems.co.za | www.chemsystems.co.za
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
31
SKIN CARE
Evonik creates a care
solutions powerhouse By merging its personal care and household care business lines, together with the associated oleochemistry platform, Evonik has created a new Care Solutions unit.
E
Strengthened growth agenda
lead to more efficient processes, a leaner
strategy for the health and care growth engine.
The four global product lines of
management. As a result, Evonik will
Dr Hans-Josef Ritzert,
cosmetic solutions, active ingredients,
be ending its involvement in the UK-
vonik is implementing its
management board member of the nutrition and care segment, comments: ‘The new business line care solutions will strengthen the growth agenda of our nutrition and care segment. The new unit, which has roughly 1 250 employees and combined sales of
cleaning solutions and technical
DID YOU KNOW?
applications will benefit from the clearer focus
Evonik’s nutrition and care segment contributes to fulfilling basic human needs. In 2017, the segment employed about 8 250 people and generated sales of around €4.5 billion.
approximately €900 million,
on specialty products and their significant differences. Dedicated
organisation and improved interface
based Milton Keynes site in 2019 and in Granollers, Spain in 2020. In addition, the care solutions business line will be withdrawing from Hanau and Schlüchtern sites in Germany. To best serve customers throughout the
application technology
world, care solutions will adopt a global
groups will ensure the
focus. Three of the five product lines will
industrial focus is retained. The fifth product line, base
ingredients, will bundle products
be managed from the US, while future production at care solutions will be carried out at the following
will be launched on 1 January 2019
together where value and cost are
international sites:
under the leadership of
crucial. Together the five product lines
• Essen, Duisburg and Steinau
Dr Tammo Boinowitz.’
will serve the following markets:
The combined business line
• hair and skin care
in Germany • Mapleton, Janesville/
ensures common expertise,
• sun care
resources, technologies and raw
• bath and shower
materials sit together under one roof.
• colour cosmetics
• Americana, in Brazil
‘In the past we’ve worked for our
• age defying
• Shanghai, in China
customers in parallel across these
• fabric care
• Bekasi Timur, in Indonesia. •
complementary business lines –
• deodorants
the reorganisation means our
• liquid laundry detergents
customers can expect more
• industrial and institutional cleaning.
Milton, Reserve and Hopewell in the US
innovative products, leaner processes and much closer customer
A global focus
relationships,’ says Boinowitz, the
The reorganisation will allow Evonik
designated head of care solutions.
to realise increased synergies that
Evonik – www.evonik.com
TEGO® Pep 4-Comfort
Soothing relief for sensitive skin Hello innovation, goodbye irritation! Feel the sense of harmony with our new tetrapeptide specially designed to relief sensitive skin • Say goodbye to hyperactive skin and skin discomfort • Soothe major skin sensitivity syndromes • Comfort skin redness and irritations Evonik Africa (Pty) Ltd IBG Business Park, Midrand, South Africa t +27 11 697 0724 | www.evonik.com
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| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
SKIN CARE
Guard skin from the negative effects of screen time
Gattefossé has developed an organic, certified active proven to protect skin cells from the effects of artificial visible light emitted from screens, tablets and laptops.
E
lectronic devices emit artificial visible light (AVL)
Figure 1: Maintenance of cell spreading under light exposure
constantly. Daily exposure to AVL, even if the amount of energy emitted is weak, negatively affects the skin yet the impact is far less understood than the effects of
screen exposure on sleep quality.¹ For the first time, screenemitted AVL has been characterised and unique equipment accurately recreating the characteristic AVL emitted by screens has been developed by Gattefossé.² It has been used to expose normal human fibroblasts in standardised in vitro test conditions. The studies demonstrated AVL acts as an additional environmental aggressor, resulting in increased cellular fatigue. It also disrupts the morphology and behaviour of the fibroblasts. AVL strongly influences the profile of gene expression in fibroblasts. More than eight percent (2 984 genes out of 35 000) of the whole genome have a deregulated expression after exposure to AVL. Molecular pathways related to mitochondria and cell skeleton (cytoskeleton) are particularly affected. The exposure to screen light damages the energetic machinery of the cells. The mitochondrial network is also altered.
communication properties of fibroblasts are no longer affected by screen light exposure and cellular activity is maintained. In the light stress condition, cells treated with the active maintain good spreading (see Figure 1), confirming the fully protective effect against light stress. Fibroblasts also maintain their ability to stretch under AVL exposure, indicating an efficient actin cytoskeleton. •
Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Gattefossé – www.gattefosse.com
AVL also weakens the mobility, communication and proliferative capacities of fibroblasts. Under stress, the cytoskeleton fibres are disorganised leading to reduced cell spreading and loss of cell contractility. Exhausted and isolated, they are less able to produce key matrix components and are less functional to interact with their environment, hindering the proper matrix remodelling process. As a result, skin vitality is reduced.
A mechanism for protection EnergiNius from Gattefosse, available in South Africa from Carst & Walker, was developed to protect skin cells from AVL. Its efficacy has been demonstrated at both genomic
Definicire™ Good hair day Discover a unique ingredient, based on functionalized vegetable waxes, that recreates the natural hair protective lipid layer and ensures: • perfect hair discipline in all climates • easy combing • static electricity control • enhanced smooth feel.
Performance validated on different hair types and confirmed by a hairdresser. www.gattefosse.com
and cellular levels. It fights against the decrease of gene expression related to mitochondria and actin cytoskeleton in fibroblasts, protecting the transcriptome of dermal fibroblasts and maintaining dermis health. It preserves the mitochondrial network from fragmentation allowing full normalisation of ATP production. Under light stress, the mitochondrial network of cells is
Carst & Walker is the proud supplier for Gattefosse in South Africa
highly fragmented and only small bright dots are detected. In contrast, thin mitochondrial filaments are detected when treated with EnergiNius, providing evidence of the ingredient’s protective benefits. ATP production is
For more information contact Tammy Smith Tammy.Smith@carst.co.za at 021-506-4567 or 073-200-6980
significantly higher in fibroblasts treated with the active than in untreated cells when exposed to AVL. The mobility and
People make our name
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
33
SKIN CARE
A specialist solution for sensitive African skin
French pharmacy brand, Mixa was launched in South Africa and key African markets in March. These body care products promise to improve the quality of sensitive skin. By Abby Vorster
M
ixa was first developed
universe. We also worked over a period of
are allergic reactions (26 percent and
in 1924 in France by a
a year with a network of five dermatologists
predominant in Nigeria), irritation (25
pharmacist, Dr Roger who
across Africa to assess the Mixa Restoring
percent), itching (24 percent) and sun
was passionate about mixing
Lotion with their patients.’
burn (22 percent and predominant in
ingredients to create a specialist ointment
South Africa). ‘There were significant visual
for severely dry, rough hands. He used
Key consumer insights
improvements in skin’s integrity using the
a special mixing technique to blend the
Dr Evanson Kamuri, chairman of the
Mixa product,’ comments Dr Kamuri.
cream which inspired the brand’s name
Dermatologist Association of Kenya,
– Mixa.
was one of the dermatologists involved
in the consumer use tests:
in the consumer assessments. He
• relief was evident by day seven
shared key study insights at the Loreal
• 30 to 100 percent of the volunteers
Owned and distributed by L’Oréal, Mixa is based on well-known pharmacopeia
Skin Symposium, which
ingredients. Alice Laurent, L’Oréal’s general manager of research and
Al ice La urent
The following overall results were evident
experienced significant relief of
formed part of the African
skin dryness
Society of Dermatology
• desquamation or skin peeling was
innovation (R&I), comments: ‘The
and Venereology congress
specific formulation requirements
programme that took
the volunteers
were decided to meet the needs
place in Durban, KwaZulu-
• in Senegal, volunteers noted the high
of the most sensitive skins with
Natal, from 30 August to 1
a derm-inspired brand that is
September.
accessible. We rely on well-known
Sunlight and soap were
improved among 60 percent of
level of cold sensitivity was relieved by Mixa.
have a body care brand on the African
in Nigeria and 30 percent of women in
market. ‘With issues linked to counterfeit
South Africa have sensitive skin on their
products in Africa, there is a great need
bodies while 67 percent in Ivory Coast, 47
for an accessible derm-inspired body care
percent in Kenya, 55 percent in Nigeria
Our ultimate goal is to offer the best solution for African consumers
brand and Mixa presented the perfect fit,’
and 53 percent of women in South Africa
Initially the Mixa body care products
says Laurent. ‘We did a whole set of tests on
experience sensitive skin on their faces.
were fully imported, but L’Oréal has
ingredients that are very safe with simple formulas to comfort, soothe and improve sensitive skins.’ Before introducing Mixa, L’Oréal didn’t
pinpointed as primary aggressors of sensitive skin. A total of 46 percent of women in Ivory Coast, 16 percent in Kenya, 41 percent
the formulas we’d selected to make sure
The most typical symptoms according
the sensorial properties were in the right
to the consumers evaluated in the study,
34
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
implemented a strategy to manufacture certain products in Africa. ‘We have
SKIN CARE
STAR INGREDIENTS THAT CARE FOR SENSITIVE SKIN A KEY INGREDIENT in the soothing body lotion, Allantoin has been discovered in a variety of plants such as wheat germ, young sycamore leaves, comfrey roots and bark of horse chestnut. The therapeutic virtues of comfrey roots were already known at the end of the 16th century, but it was not until the 19th and 20th centuries that allantoin was isolated, analysed and its beneficial properties of regeneration and reparation attributed. Thanks to its repairing, regenerating, moisturising and soothing properties, Allantoin is perfectly suitable for sensitive skin care. The multipurpose Cica Repair Balm is enriched with Panthenol (vitamin B5), which is well known for its soothing and repairing properties. Dexpanthenol or Pro-vitamin B5 is a precursor of Panthenol commonly used in cosmetics. Dexpanthenol acts on the skin as a moisturiser thanks to its good capacity to capture water, contributing to maintaining skin softness. Some studies have revealed regenerative properties of Dexpanthenol
started producing specific Mixa formulas for the southern African market at our Midrand plant. Products for east Africa will be manufactured at our plant in Kenya and in Ivory Coast for the west African market. Our ultimate goal is to offer the best solution for African consumers, should it be from our international portfolio or specifically developed. L’Oréal R&I has a small skin care team in Kenya formulating for our Kenyan brands. We will increase this team to produce relevant innovations in the domain of body care and will bring some of the development activity into our R&I centre in South Africa,’ Laurent concludes. •
and its ability to reduce transepidermal water loss, helping maintain the skin’s protective barrier function.
COSMETIC SOLUTIONS
SKINCARE / PERSONAL CARE / FRAGRANCE / COSMETICS
YOUR BRAND + OUR COSMETIC PRIVATE LABEL MANUFACTURING EXPERTISE = YOUR MARKET INNOVATION
Call us for your cosmetic needs… from formulations & cosmetic packaging to third party manufacturing EMAIL: info@sdkagencies.com OFFICE: +27 11 314 0020 I FAX: +27 11 314 3499
WE BRING YOUR BRANDED COSMETIC IDEAS TO LIFE P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
35
SKIN CARE
An honest approach to natural
and organic ingredients
House of Naturals from DSM is a broad portfolio of natural, organic and sustainable ingredients with clear information on natural certifications. This new portfolio reflects the company’s commitment to transparency in the natural and organic category.
D
SM, represented in South
European body, FEBEA to compile
Africa by Chempure,
a report that will offer new insights
has evaluated its entire
into the technical aspects of
personal care range of
this standard.’
products according to the globally
Although the ISO standard permits
recognised Cosmos and Natrue
materials with 50 percent natural
certifications and the newer ISO 16128 standard on definitions for natural ingredients. It then developed a new pictogram system for its broad naturals portfolio based on key information from
DID YOU KNOW?
content in the active compound, DSM has introduced stricter
Euromonitor’s Beauty Survey 2017 reveals around 40 percent of consumers favour ‘natural or botanical ingredients’ over ‘lower price’ products.
the evaluation. The result is an easy to navigate guide that provides customers with clarity on the degree of natural
requirements for its House
Green credentials are a priority in the facial skin care category misleading claims and want reliable and
of Naturals portfolio. The
transparent labelling information to aid
company stipulates a
their decision making. With technology
natural origin score of
providing instant access to information
60 percent or more for
beyond a product’s label, consumer
ingredients in the portfolio. This applies to ingredients
with an active part of natural origin and that comply with green chemistry principles.
demand for more transparency on green claims, ingredients and processes will continue to rise. More than 45 percent of the ingredients in DSM’s House of Naturals portfolio are of natural origin. These ingredients are
origin of the different ingredients and
certified at various levels and originate from
their production processes. It also
More than a trend
includes guidance on certifications
Natural ingredients and green
a wide range of raw materials including
and regulations for natural products.
credentials are a priority in the facial
edible vegetables, herbs, oils, marine/
‘DSM is committed to providing
skin care category. According to
algae resources, silk and milk, yeast/
transparent information about its
a Mintel study, half of consumers
fermentation and minerals. The portfolio
ingredients,’ comments Rishabh
based in the UK who purchased
includes more than 55 ingredients of
Pande, VP of marketing and
beauty products in the last year
natural origin and in excess of 70 percent of
innovation: personal care and
sought products formulated with
skin care actives with natural origin content
aroma at DSM. ‘We welcome the
natural ingredients.
above 90 percent. •
clarity the new ISO 16128 standard
DSM’s own social media influencers
that provides but believe it could go
study reveals consumers expect
even further. We have joined forces
ethical and sustainable practices
with industry representatives and the
from manufacturers, they are wary of
36
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
Chempure – www.chempure.co.za DSM House of Naturals – bit.ly/2xLjr7A
SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING
A new biological pathway to activate lipolysis Recent studies show the importance of new signalling pathways in fat mobilisation. These pathways involve innovative types of receptors, free fatty acid receptors or FFARs, deorphanised during research on diabetes and obesity.1
Figure 1: A diagrammatic representation of the mode of action of Slim EC3
Active
all plant oils. Camellia Oil also promotes the
molecules
absorption of other active ingredients.
were designed
New slimming complex
combining
Activation of the FFAR synergetic pathway
carnitine and
leads to HSL phosphorylation through other
free fatty acids
protein kinases, the protein kinase C (PKC),
from Camellia
as well as the MAP kinase (also known as
oleifera seed oil
ERK1/2). However, the full pathway has
to form Camellia Oil esters
not been clearly described as yet and
associated with Esculin in a complex. The
further investigation is necessary to properly
purpose of the Slim EC3 complex is to:
characterise it.
• activate the FFAR4 pathway to increase
4
the lipolysis rate
Research also highlighted that PKA and PKC can act synergistically to boost lipolysis
in adipocytes
n the case of adipocytes, the most
activity in adipocytes.5 Several studies have
• synergise the slimming activity
relevant FFAR is FFAR4, a transmembrane
been performed on both humans and
of caffeine
receptor coupled with the G protein
mice (KO), lacking functional FFAR4. They
• act at all levels of fat mobilisation,
also known as GPR120. This receptor
indicate a dysfunction of the FFAR4 receptor
I
is expressed in various tissues including
always leads to obesity, making it a key
adipose tissue and adipocytes. Long chain
target for fat storage regulation.6
saturated and unsaturated fatty acids, C1822, can activate it.² Based on these findings, Camellia
Slim EC3, the new active complex from Inabata distributed in South Africa by Brenntag, will stimulate the FFAR4
including the elimination of free fatty acids. •
Brenntag South Africa – www.brenntag.com/south-africa Inabata – www.inabata.co.jp
Oil, composed of more than 80 percent
pathway to synergise the caffeine effect
oleic acid, monounsaturated omega-9
and promote the elimination of fat
REFERENCES:
fatty acid (C18), appears to be a good
storage from adipocytes (see Figure 1).
1. Carmen et al., 2006; Vangaveti et al., 2010;
candidate for stimulating the new
Pharmasynthese, the research lab of
pathway. The oil is cold pressed from the
Inabata, used this medical discovery to
seeds of the flowering Camellia tree.³ It is
develop Slim EC3. The slimming complex
4. Jaworski et al., 2006
light, absorbs quickly into the skin and is
acts on all the different mechanisms
5. Fricke et al., 2004
considered the most penetrative of
involved in fat reserve mobilisation.
6. Ichimura et al., 2012
Brenntag South Africa (Pty) Ltd 11 Mansell Road Killarney Gardens Cape Town, 7441 Cape Town +27 (0) 21 020 1800 Johannesburg +27 (0) 10 020 9100 info@brenntag.co.za www.brenntag.com/south-africa
Ichimura et al., 2014; Moran et al., 2016 2. Ichimura et al., 2009; Gotoh et al., 2007 3. Wakefield 2014
GLOBAL MARKET LEADER IN CHEMICAL DISTRIBUTION
Brenntag South Africa
PERSONAL CARE | PHARMACEUTICAL
| NUTRACEUTICAL | FOOD | BEVERAGE
Acidulants | Actives | Alcohols | Alkalies | Anti-Caking Agents | Antimicrobials | Antioxidants | Butters Chelating Agents | Conditioning Agents | Dyes and Pigments | Emollients | Emulsifiers | Essential Oils Exfolliants | Extracts | Fatty Acids | Flavor and Fragrance | Humectants | Opacifiers | P H Re g u l a to r s | Salts and Peroxygen Liquids | Seeds and Meals Preservatives | Phospates | Rheology Modifiers Surfactants | Sweeteners | Thickeners | UV Filters | Vitamins | Waxes | White Oils | and Others.
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
37
SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING
The growing trend of therapeutic body care
The body care market was once solely populated by fragranced creams and lotions with basic moisturising functionality. Now, with the therapeutic body care category on the rise, anti-ageing skin care benefits have become commonplace. By John Knowlton
B
ody care is big business – the
The option of taking a holistic approach
has come under a degree of scrutiny
global market value of US$16.2
to tantalise all the senses adds huge
regarding safety in use.
billion recorded in 2016 is
value to both a treatment and a product
Detoxification is another area of
expected to reach US$21.1
itself. Texture and format are also crucial,
therapeutic body care that’s gaining
billion by the year 2021, according to
with an endless selection of cream, lotion,
increased consumer interest. This could
Euromonitor International.
oil, mask and even spray formats now
be due to the increasing levels of pollution
There are many factors driving this
available, as well as food-inspired textures
to which they are exposed. Clays such
metamorphosis, such as consumers’
like marshmallow, whipped cream, soufflé
as bentonite, kaolin and montmorillonite
ever-increasing awareness of health
and meringue.
have been used successfully in
and self-image and increased
detoxifying body care formulations. Not
participation in recreational sports
Detox and target dimples
only do these materials absorb excess oils
and active lifestyles. The marketplace
The main difference between therapeutic
and unwanted toxins from the skin, they
has capitalised on these trends,
body care and mainstream products
also contain high levels of minerals and
offering firming and tightening, contour
is formulation design or the active
other beneficial nutrients that enhance
improvement, detoxification, cellulite
ingredients used. Historically, ingredients
skin’s condition after use.
reduction and even weight loss benefits
such as caffeine, green tea, clays and
in body care products. Yet, there are
vitamin C derivatives have been used
from natural sources, they are ideal for
strict regulations in most parts of the
to confer anti-cellulite, anti-ageing,
inclusion into product ranges positioned
world which prevent the use of weight
detoxification and skin brightening
against the popular ‘natural’ and
loss claims.
benefits respectively. Often these
‘organic’ marketing propositions.
The sensory profile of therapeutic body care products is an important consideration in their development and
Given that all these clays are derived
materials are used in combination to take advantage of synergies. Cellulite treatment is a rapidly growing
Scrubs make sense When it comes to the sensory experience,
marketing. Consumers want experiences
market that has demonstrated its
body exfoliators deliver enormous benefits
they can feel, driving the increased use of
presence to an even greater degree with
on the skin. Their abrasivity can be tailored
formulation ingredients that either cool or
the rise in obesity. Caffeine remains a
by altering the shape, size and hardness of
warm the skin when a product is applied,
popular choice for cellulite treatments. It
the abrasive particles, to give exactly the
not to mention the stimulation provided
has been shown to have vasoconstricting
right experience.
by exfoliating scrubs.
properties, as well as acting as a diuretic
Many therapeutic body care products are used in salon and spa environments.
Whilst traditional scrub materials such as
with the ability to dehydrate fat cells,
walnut powder, sea salt, sugar and cellulose
thereby improving the surface contours
derivatives still enjoy frequent use, there are
of the skin. Caffeine is a powerful
hundreds of scrub particles on the market.
antioxidant with the ability to soothe
These are derived from shells, fruit kernels,
inflammation and help alleviate the
minerals, seeds, herbs, spices, flowers and
visible signs of free-radical damage. Regulatory requirements for all cellulite treatments prohibit any claims stating or implying slimming or weight loss and instructions for use typically mandate that products should be used in conjunction with a healthy lifestyle. Other classic cellulite
leaves, enabling an infinite number of consumer experiences to be created in the formulation of the final product. The wide range of scrub particles also allows the choice of material to be aligned with the marketing proposition – think a range of high-end therapeutic body care products, LSM 8 to 10, containing garnet, pearl and quartz exfoliating particles!
treatment ingredients include L-carnitine and aminophylline, although the latter
38
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
High tech actives The biggest advancement in therapeutic body care is the availability of high tech
SLIMMING & BODY CONTOURING active ingredients, many
condition. A proprietary blend of
application and absorption. Solving this
of them derived from
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
dilemma will likely be a recipe
natural sources. They
and two peptide derivatives claim to
for success in the body care market
are backed by scientific
reduce the appearance of existing
of the future.
studies to demonstrate firming, tightening, smoothing, detoxifying, cellulite reduction and a host of other benefits.
The biggest advancement in therapeutic body care is the availability of high tech active ingredients This new level of scientific credibility
stretch marks, whilst simultaneously
Consumer interest in natural
assisting in the prevention of new ones.
ingredients, in conjunction with the
Both benefits are clinically substantiated
demand for balancing products that
by dermatological assessments and
protect skin health, reinforce skin auto-
instrumental analyses. The mechanism of
capacity and restore skin harmony,
action is claimed to be inhibition of the
will be important trends in the future
degradation of the extracellular matrix,
development of the body care category.
coupled with the ability to regenerate
This is intimately connected to a growing
dermal components, giving skin the
interest in scientific expertise and the
integrity and elasticity it needs to recover
availability of advanced technologies
from stretch mark damage.
to address the problems consumers
The benefit of ‘contouring’ the body, despite the precarious regulatory status
perceive as important. It seems any market trend that applies
of poorly constructed, frequently made
to facial care is rapidly finding its way
claims, is another popular area of interest.
into body care. In this context, it’s
There are many technologies available
perfectly reasonable to expect current
has allowed the marketing of high end
that claim to have body contouring
facial skin care trends such as natural
body care products, with clinically
effects, most of which are substantiated
sustainability, anti-pollution treatments
proven benefits, targeted specifically
with some form of clinical testing or
and the beneficial use of prebiotic and
at the prestige and professional skin
instrumental analysis.
probiotics, will quickly be adopted in the
care segments. One example is a
One such material, based upon
body care category. So, it looks like the
proprietary, synergistic blend of caffeine
a proprietary blend of two botanical
and two natural extracts, Globularia
extracts from the botanical
cordifolia and Zingiber zerumbet. The
species Celosia cristata and
blend is specifically targeted at soothing
Prunella vulgaris, claims short term
inflammation and reducing adipose
elimination of fat by the stimulation
tissue, which results in decongestion
of the lipolytic activity of mature
of the hypodermis. This technology
adipocytes. Its longer term benefits
is backed by a host of clinical trials
are attributed to a reduction in fat
including anti-inflammatory activity on
cell division and growth by blocking
mature human adipocytes, decongestion
transcription factors involved in the
of adipose tissue and volume reduction in
triggering and regulation of the
the thigh area.
adipocyte differentiation process.
ABOUT
Stretch marks, like cellulite, are a very real concern for many women.
Inspired by face care
Technologies are now available to
From the consumer’s perspective, one
formulate body care products with
of the main barriers to using body
claims to effectively address this
care products is the lack of time for
©Unsplash
Tel: +27 11 494 6700 | info@cjpchemicals.co.za | www. cjpchemicals.co.za
©Unsplash
wesourcebeauty.com
wesourcebeauty.com
trickle-down effect is here to stay? •
John Knowlton (C.Chem, MRSC, UK Dip Cos. Sci.) is the founder of Cosmetic Solutions, which specialises in a wide range of consultancy services to the cosmetics industry. He is a pastpresident of the South African Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1999) and was chairman of the organising committee of the IFSCC Conference that was hosted in South Africa during the same year.
ADIPOSLIM™
RHODYSTEROL™ S TG
ADIPOLESS™
SCULPTOSANE™
™ ™ S TG ADIPOSLIM RHODYSTEROL Natural Active Ingredients for Body Sculpt!
ADIPOLESS™
SCULPTOSANE™
Natural Active Ingredients for Body Sculpt!
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
39
PHARMA FOCUS//Made In SA
Are you ready to track and trace? Securing pharma supply chains is crucial to winning the war on counterfeit medicines. P C Review talks to Carol Cohen, operations director at USS Pactech, about serialisation systems and how they improve patient safety by enabling end to end supply chain visibility.
V
alued at US$200
departments within an organisation,
an industrial interoperability standard
billion annually, fake
so manufacturers should start
for healthcare packaging serialisation
pharmaceutical products
planning now,’ she comments. ‘The
regulations, which improves deployment
and medical devices make
first requirement is for a GTIN and GS1
efficiency and reduces the high cost
up the largest global market in
Datamatrix code on cases and
counterfeit goods.
DID YOU KNOW?
‘While less than one percent of counterfeit drugs are sold in industrialised nations, it is estimated 10 to 30 percent of medicines sold in developing countries are counterfeit. These
pallets with no aggregation
higher in low and middle
Source: The World Health Organization
income countries because many cases go unreported,’ Cohen explains. Illicit trade also involves the
‘Line vendor’s can never be as specialised
and serialisation. Yet it’s
as real IT system providers which is why
important to bear in
Wipotec OCS focusses on its strengths –
Anti-malarials and antibiotics are amongst the most commonly reported substandard and falsified medical products. Both generic and innovator medicines can be falsified, ranging from very expensive products for cancer to highly cost-effective products for treating pain.
numbers are likely even
of compliance.
mind the end goal
automation and control,’ she comments.
is to achieve a fully
‘Our principal’s cameras and printing
serialised code.’
devices are fully integrated into a single user
Avoid the trap Serialisation doesn’t only involve putting a unique code on a carton
or a case. It encompasses systems working together
and touches all divisions within an organisation. Therefore, it’s important
interface known as ConfigureFast. Operators do not have to be experts in a particular brand of printer or camera and the need to “teach” the system during setup is eliminated. With Wipotec OCS’s high quality systems, the aggregation of a fully serialised line can be achieved effortlessly, ensuring full data visibility.’
distribution of stolen or expired
for manufacturers to choose their
A standardised approach
medicines and drug tampering,
serialisation system supplier wisely to
By nature, the pharma industry is global
affecting the pharma industry and
avoid ‘vendor lock-in’.
with supply chains that cross borders.
putting the safety of patients at risk.
Cohen explains: ‘Vendor lock-in
According to the GS1 website, a globally
To ensure supply chain security and
occurs when a manufacturer installs a
standardised system for traceability,
increase patient safety, the National
serialisation solution that uses proprietary
from product manufacture to patient
Department of Health (NDoH) has
Level 3 site server software. Inflexible
treatment, is imperative to comply
tabled the phased implementation
and incompatible with other vendors’
worldwide with the legal requirements
of GTIN-14 datamatrix barcodes in
hardware, pharmaceutical companies
for product traceability. In cases of cross
the Government Gazette. Deemed
could face financial risks when held
border trading, a GTIN can be used to
‘track and trace’, Global Trade Item
captive with proprietary software.
identify a product in any country without
Number (GTIN) compliance will
This is particularly prohibitive when
any restrictions or errors.
become mandatory in South Africa for
a manufacturer attempts to achieve
medicines procured in both the public
compliance across multiple sites.’
and private healthcare sectors. Despite
To eliminate vendor lock-in, a global
‘The use of standards maintains connections between systems and improves data integrity right up to the
being phased, Cohen advises pharma
consortium of pharma manufacturers
end user,’ says Cohen. ‘This means
manufacturers not to underestimate the
and vendors have launched the
the authenticity of medicines can be
time it takes to implement a track and
Open Serialisation Communication
checked, removing the possibility of
trace project.
Standard (Open-SCS) working group.
counterfeit products entering the supply
USS Pactech’s principal, Wipotec OCS is
chain. In a well-connected system,
project from scratch requires detailed
a founding member of Open-SCS. The
product recall effectiveness is also
planning and input from various
company is committed to developing
improved, reducing the risk to patients.’
‘Implementing a full serialisation
40
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
PHARMA FOCUS//Made in SA The GS1 Healthcare Global User Group
To ensure the GS1 supply chain
associated with full supply chain visibility.
has been created to lead the successful
programme takes local conditions
But for now, manufacturers should focus
development and implementation of
into consideration, GS1 South Africa
on implementing the necessary changes
global GS1 standards in the healthcare
is actively communicating with the
to become compliant.’ •
sector. Wipotec OCS is a voting member
NDoH to provide advice and support on
on this user group, putting the company
implementing the global solutions.
in close proximity to the guidelines for
Uss Pactech – www.usspactech.co.za Wipotec OCS – www.wipotec-ocs.com
‘There are vast possibilities in
global serialisation and aggregation
establishing a fully global standards
in the field of pharmaceuticals and
infrastructure in South Africa, not to
medical devices.
mention the marketing opportunities
STEP 01
STEP 02
STEP 03
ConfigureFast User Interface
Define a print layout one time:
Machine is configured
Print data goes to printer and camera at the same time
Printer
In three easy steps, ConfigureFast from Wipotec OCS facilitates the swift configuration of all relevant units
Camera
Positive performance for Adcock Ingram
T
he proudly South Africa pharma
Extensive improvements
manufacturer reported a 20
Well controlled operating expenses
percent increase in trading
(allowing for additional expenditure
profit for the year ended 30 June
consequent to the Genop acquisition)
2018. This is significant considering the
contributed to a 20 percent improvement
price regulated environment in which
in trading profit which increased to R866
it operates and the difficult economic
million (2017: R724 million). All commercial
conditions in our country.
divisions showed an improvement in trading
‘The positive results were achieved through continued investment in our well-established brands, improved factory
profit, with the prescription, OTC and hospital divisions’ growth all above 15 percent. The consumer division showed a muted
efficiencies, and a relentless focus on
trading profit growth of two percent.
customer service and product quality,’
Headline earnings for the year from
says Andy Hall, chief executive officer.
continuing operations increased to R645
A 10 percent increase in turnover to R6.5 billion rendered an improved gross profit which expanded as a percentage of sales to 39.2 percent from 37.8 percent in 2017. An improved product sales mix, a
million compared to R514 million in the previous year. The group remains committed in seeking additional affordable brands to augment its range of products and defend its position
favourable exchange rate and factory
in the market, as well as expand on its non-
efficiencies, particularly in its Wadeville
regulated portfolio to limit the impact of the
operations, were the major contributors to
extremely volatile exchange rate and an
this achievement.
unfavourable single exit price environment. •
ADCOCK INGRAM’S HIGHLIGHTS • Increase of 10 percent in turnover to R6.5 billion • Increase of 14 percent in gross profit to R2,6 billion • increase of 20 percent in trading profit to R866 million • Increase of 26 percent in HEPS from continuing operations • Total dividend increases 24 percent to 172 cents.
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
41
ADVERTORIAL
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This year has been one of immense innovation for JRS Pharma Coatings, with the company having launched four new and ready to use coating systems.
V
IVACOAT is a fully formulated, ready to use, all in one film coating system produced by experts in a GMP certified environment, using state of the art equipment. The coating system is designed to perform on a wide range of film coating equipment, to meet the specific requirements of a formulation.
• VIVACOAT protect T is a taste protection, ready to use coating system. It was developed to shield the patient from the bitter or unpleasant taste of certain APIs, including plant extracts, B-vitamins, paracetamol (Acetaminophen) and Pseudoephedrine. • VIVACOAT protect W is an advanced moisture barrier, ready to use coating system. It was developed to effectively protect moisture sensitive APIs. • VIVACOAT protect U safeguards especially natural colours like Riboflavins, Carotins, Chlorophylls and vegetable and fruit extracts from UV-induced colour fading.
AN INCLUSIVE PORTFOLIO JRS PHARMA’s innovative excipients and coatings, along with its formulation expertise and biopharma services, provide customers with a complete portfolio of solutions to develop and manufacture solid and liquid dosage forms. VIVACOAT coating systems are available countrywide from Rettenmaier South Africa, JRS PHARMA’s Johannesburg-based sales organisation for sub-Saharan Africa. •
THE
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VIVACOAT PROTECT
• VIVACOAT protect E is an aqueous, ready to use enteric coating system, based on Methacrylic-Acid Copolymer. It was created to protect acid sensitive APIs, such as PPI and Erythromycin and/or to protect the stomach against irritating actives, like Aspirin and certain steroids.
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THE
Buyer’sguide 2018/2019
The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry
Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1
42
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
2018/05/07 3:09 PM
PackagingREVIEW SOUTH AFRICAN
October 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 10
www.pharmacos.co.za
Precision solutions
for perfumes and pharmaceuticals
Technology disruptors from Marchesini
Flexible pack fit for every stage of recycling
NEWS
The purest form of packaging GLASS PACKAGING CONVEYS an interesting story. The packaging format is also indicative of a product’s quality. When product protection and safety are imperative, an inert material like glass serves as an ideal packaging option. Glass safeguards contents from oxygen ingress and cross contamination. In spite of the slight decline in glass packaging volumes, it continues to be used in the beauty and personal care industry to communicate brand values beyond its functional purpose. You can read all about the beauty of glass and reasons for its decline in the pharma industry, on page 46. Disruptive cosmetics industry innovations from Marchesini and a polyethylene mono-material patented pouch with detachable decorative panels, which is to be launched next year, are featured on our news page.
MARCHESINI TAKES DISRUPTIVE INNOVATIONS TO AMERICA AT PACK EXPO Chicago, from 14 to 17 October, Marchenisni will exhibit three new standalone machines. The MA 400 continuous motion horizontal cartoner, TURBO-MEK 150 vacuum turbo-emulsifier by Dumek and the RE 202 rotary labeller will be showcased. Dumek is the group’s brand specialising in the manufacturing of cosmetics processing machines. The MA 400 is a completely updated machine
Enjoy the read!
with improved ergonomics, reliability and user friendliness. It inherits the best of the BA 400 cartoner, which has been the global benchmark
Assistant editor
in efficient reliability and ergonomic design in
Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za
the pharma and cosmetics industries. The MA
FLEXIBLE POUCH NOW FULLY RECYCLABLE MONDI, IN COLLABORATION with
Jens Kösters, manager of technical
Werner & Mertz, will introduce a new,
services at Mondi Consumer Goods
patented 100 percent recyclable
Packaging, says the team worked its
pouch with detachable decorative
way through an ‘innovation funnel’.
panels in 2019. This comes after
‘We tested different materials until
almost four years of development.
a “designed for recycling concept”
The pouch will replace conventional
was conceived and resonated with
flexible packaging for Frosch, a home
everyone at each point of the value
care brand sold in the US and UK. The
chain.’ The concept offers clear
pioneering design overcomes many
benefits related to sealing strength
shortcomings of the
and maximum
recycling process.
filling volume.
In 2014, Werner &
The final touch
Mertz made a bold
of detachable
move to develop
decorative panels
completely recyclable
was added to
packaging. This was
solve the issue of
before most FMCG
recycling printed
companies viewed
plastic materials,
a commitment to
giving the pouch a
sustainability as an
two layer finish.
indispensable building
The outer layer
block for brand equity.
is printed with the
The design aim of the
brand’s design
project was to ‘reverse
on the front
engineer’ the recycling
and consumer
process and create
the back. When empty, the pouch
recycling process. Sorting is a crucial
is shredded and sorted into two
and often neglected step. Failure to
components, which are sent to
sort the collected packaging into
separate recycling streams.
leads to down-cycling. The packaging also needed to be
maintenance. It is compact in size – without compromising the machine’s high speed output and ease of use. This is owing to a range of control functions guaranteeing maximum efficiency. It comprises a new operator interface, Easy Door, which has several improvements from both a functional and aesthetic point. The new software makes the operating system more powerful and faster. The wider screen is more ergonomic and more sensitive. The TURBO-MEK 150 vacuum turbo emulsifier is designed to process liquid and cream products for the cosmetics industry. It is suitable for cream/ milk products, serums, oils and balms and gels and lotions. Special versions of these machines are able to process other products such as make up, suppositories, hair dyes, toothpastes, mud products and shaving creams. Neri developed the RE 202 rotary labeller. This is the group’s branch specialising in the production of labelling machines. The labeller is a technically advanced and user friendly machine. It offers extraordinary advantages among which are ergonomics and straightforward machine management. Marchesini is represented by MGSA Projects in South Africa.
information at
packaging fit for every stage of the
material streams that recyclers can use
400 guarantees fast changeover times and low
The material is free from adhesive. Its spout and cap are also made of polyethylene, so the recycled
made of a polyethylene mono-material,
material is equivalent in quality to the
which is a prerequisite for recycling.
original material. Inside the RE 202 rotary labeller
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| OCTOBER 2018 | Packaging Review
Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.
Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028
GLASS PACKAGING
Break the rules with
visible elegance Glass packaging lends an unmistakable brand identity to perfumes, skin creams and healthcare products. The clarity, clean lines and elegance of glass convey a premium promise and offer better protection to drug formulations. By Aarifah Nosarka
I
ncreased consumption of generic medicines and improved access to healthcare services present new
opportunities for pharma companies to replace glass packaging or produce it in house. In the cosmetics industry, the seductive elegance, modern simplicity and cool sensuality of glass make it the unmistakable choice for packaging fine fragrances and perfumes. Glass has the potential for a range of designs and finishes. Richard Irwin from Bottle Printers says it is difficult to pinpoint the most popular glass packs for cosmetics as it depends on consumer preferences, different target markets and pricing. Though the most frequent order Bottle Printers' advanced glass coating machine
sizes range from 50 to 100mℓ. ‘Customers are sourcing the same bottle for an entire range of fragrances. To differentiate the individual products in the range, each is coated with a different colour and print finish,’ says Irwin. This cost-sensitivity is as a result of the limited number of suppliers of fragrance bottles in South Africa.
MAINTAINING A STRONGHOLD
different to the standard packaging often
Pharma products that require glass are
seen on shelf.
more constant whilst demand is seasonal and predictable. In the cosmetics industry, glass bottles offer the potential
be erratic. The local fragrance industry
for different decorative effects.
particularly with direct selling. Things are
need to be imported, either
different in the pharmaceutical industry. Manufacturers are moving away from
or through an agent or
glass because of the price and consumer
supplier. Once these
demand for increased convenience.
bottles are sourced and
Glass has the obvious disadvantage of
delivered, Bottle Printers
being fragile, which does not suit the
works with clients to
needs of the pharmaceutical market.’
create fresh, different
There is a massive gap in South
branding and
Africa to manufacture and supply glass
decorating avenues,’
fragrance bottles. Unique bottles are
says Irwin.
imported, which makes sourcing them
Trends in glass packaging are dependent and
| OCTOBER 2018 | Packaging Review
has boomed over the last few years
‘In South Africa, bottles by the customer directly
46
‘The demand for fragrances is based on fashion, which is seasonal and can
particularly difficult. ‘This gap in the South African market for the manufacture and means
GLASS PACKAGING
there are only a handful of reliable
a brand new concept. It involves a special
and consistent glass bottle suppliers
combination of hot melt and UV bonding
available. Minimum order quantities are
technology to apply a variety of materials,
also very high when importing. Suppliers
such as metal or wood straight onto glass
catering to fragrance start ups which
bottles. The concept has already been
don’t require more than a 5 000 order
tested and is expected to be ready for
EMERGING ECONOMIES SUCH as China, India,
requisite are few and far between,’
production during the first half of 2019.
and Brazil have been witnessing considerable
Irwin adds.
Hörauf says: ‘When it comes to a
DOORS OF OPPORTUNITY growth in the global pharma industry. According
connected process chain in the context
to Grand View Research (GVR), Brazil, Russia,
of screen printing, further process steps
India, China, Mexico and Turkey have shown
can be achieved. These include the use
strong economic growth over the past few years.
Gerresheimer has earned an excellent
of plastic inserts in bottle necks which can
These countries are transforming into comparable
reputation in the world of fragrances
be done in same machine cycle, saving
markets in terms of their size and nature when
and beauty products with its exquisite
money and reducing outlay.’
compared to the mature western counterparts.
specialised production facilities in two
SUPERIOR SYRINGES FOR ENHANCED PROTECTION
packaging pharma parenteral products. Yet GVR
locations which supply glass packaging
Schott AG (Schott) recently introduced
from the plastics industry, because glass is fragile
to leading multinationals in the
its syriQ BioPure pre-fillable glass syringes
and due to delamination and the costs involved.
cosmetics industry.
for the biologics market. The syringes are
UNMISTAKABLE GLASS PRODUCTS
bottles and jars and comprehensive service. The company has highly
Glass has always been the first choice for expects the medium will face strong competition
In the coming years, ageing populations,
designed to maintain the shelf life stability
increasing life expectancies and rising disposable
Belgium and the other, in the German
of sensitive drugs and to shorten time to
incomes are projected to provide packaging
city of Tettau. Both plants boast state
market while making administration more
companies with attractive opportunities in the
of the art production technology and
convenient for patients.
healthcare sector.
One of the facilities is in Momignies,
specialists who design and engineer
‘Sensitive and complex drugs are These syringes are available with a
complex shapes. The two sites also have
often highly viscous, which makes
departments dedicated to adding final
them more difficult to administer.
range of coated plunger stoppers tailored
touches and packaging embellishments.
They are prone to interaction with the
for sensitive applications. More than 48
container due to their complex molecule
combinations have been validated.
‘Customisation is key in the cosmetics industry, particularly on primary
structure,’ says Dr Nicolas Eon, Schott’s
packaging. In addition to the design of a
global product manager.
bottle, decoration plays an even greater
SyriQ BioPure syringes are manufactured
Meeting the need for improved patient comfort when administering medicines at home, the syringes work with leading
role. We want to reduce complexity for our
under improved processes to lower
safety and auto-injector devices. Seamless
customers,’ says Bernd Hörauf, company
tungsten and adhesive residuals and
integration is achieved thanks to the high
CEO in Tettau.
ensure a uniform silicone layer. These
dimensional accuracy of the syringe.
processes are validated and documented
This includes glass tubing inspected with
according to the FDA’s latest guidelines.
Schott’s big data perfeXion process.
At Gerresheimer, decoration is anything that can be offered to
Additional dimensions beyond ISO
customers as added value alongside
The syringes are made of highly inert
screen printing, colour spraying, acid
fiolax borosilicate glass – a gold standard
requirements and new geometrical
etching and pad printing.
for packaging complex pharma prodcuts.
tolerances are achieved using the
The company supplies directly to the
The suitability of this glass type for sensitive
company’s cutting edge forming
South African market from its Belgium and
medicines is well researched and backed
technology and online inspection systems.
German branches, where it has developed
by a strong track record.
These syringes are documented according to the latest design controlled
A variety of glas bottles produced by Bottle Printers
guidelines to support a combination of product requirements. This leads to a short time to market for the pharmaceutical industry, as all required documentation is fully available. The company is represented in South Africa by Starrate, a supplier of pharma packaging and biological media which is based in Durban, KwaZulu-Natal. •
Bottle Printers – www.bottleprinters.co.za Gerresheimer – www.gerresheimer.com Starrate – www.starrate.co.za
Packaging Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
47
ASSOCIATION NEWS//
Shifting the
channels of SCIENCE
Themed ‘Beauty in HD’, the annual scientific conference of the South African Society of Cosmetic Chemists took place on 5 and 6 September at Bytes Conference Centre in Midrand, Johannesburg.
T
he cosmetics industry is a
These included:
dermal filler procedures are costly and only
complex one. Consumers are
• The Conundrum of Hydrating Ethnic Skin by
offer a short term solution to ageing, which
more empowered, transparency
Future Cosmetics Research presented by
made it fitting for Caroline Cochrane of The
has become more than a trend,
Janine Fitzpatrick of CJP Chemicals
Care Co. to share an interesting presentation
digital technologies are taking over, and
• Skin Re-Pigmentation through Melanin
on Acetylated Hyaluronic Acid from
brands are being created at the speed
transfer using Aspalathus Linearis by
Givaudan Active Beauty. The international
of light. With these and other topical
Analike Blom van Staden of the University
company has developed a topical,
issues highlighted at Coschem’s scientific
of Pretoria
cosmetic alternative, which behaves in the
conference, delegates were challenged over the two days to think differently. In his opening address, Ivor Zwane, the
• Investigating the Impact of Grooming and
same way as a dermal filler, penetrating
Regular Braiding on African Hair Integrity
deeply into the skin, rapidly reducing
by Kwezikazi Molamodi of L’Oréal
wrinkles and the degradation of collagen.
society’s 2018 president, reminded delegates
South Africa
of the importance to keep pace with digital
• Interaction between Skin Surface pH and
Crucial to new product development, Beverley Gardner of SkyEm took delegates
transformation as it’s having a profound
Skin Hydration in Africans and Caucasians
on a journey of the global mega trends,
impact on the industry.
by Monica Young of North-West University
their drivers and the impact they have on
The keynote address, Skin Pigmentation:
• A Demonstration of Protein Treatment
the industry. Fundamentally, megatrends
The Good, the Bad and the Unknown, by
Benefits to Virgin and Relaxed African Hair
need to be incorporated into business in
Prof Lester Davids of the University of Pretoria,
via Tensile and Cyclic Fatigue Testing by
order to improve marketing and driving
dispelled many myths on dark skins. Prof
Lumbidzani Moyo of Croda South Africa
competitive advantage.
Davids took delegates through the process
• Hyperpigmentation: The Challenges
of pigmentation and how it occurs. He also
of Treatment by dermatologist,
and ice themed gala dinner hosted at
demystified the notion that skin colour or
Dr Lushen Pillay.
Montecasino on 6 September. •
pigmentation is related to race. Prof Davids presentation set the tone for
The conference culminated with a fire
Trends in focus
a series of talks focused on the skin and
Every hour, 1 000 hyaluronic acid-based
hair concerns of Ethnic consumers which
injectable dermal filler procedures were
featured over the two days of the conference.
performed worldwide during 2016. Injectable
COSCHEM SCIENTIFIC CONFERENCE – BEAUTY IN HD
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| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
Coschem – www.coschem.co.za
FIRE AND ICE THEMED GALA DINNER
ASSOCIATION NEWS//
Golfers putt away with the AMA
T
he Aerosol Manufacturers’
The winning fourball went to one of the
Although he was unable to attend the
Association of South Africa (AMA)
Puregas teams, with Freddi Mamadi, Danic
dinner, Norman Sanan of ISP Chemicals was
hosted its annual golf day on 19
Meyer, Philip Cloete and Wihan Fourie
also named an honourary member.
September at Glendower Golf
playing an excellent round of golf despite
Club, in Johannesburg. The Glendower
the fierce competition.
championship course is rated number one
The prize giving was MCed by Gordon Howell of Chemlink SA, who kept guests entertained with his excellent jokes. Table
in Gauteng and 12th best golf course in South
A social event
Africa by Golf Digest.
Apart from the opportunity to get out on
team prizes were sponsored by Puregas,
The golfers each received a fantastic
the golf course with fellow professionals
Nampak Divfood, Precision Valve South
goody bag filled with a cap, towel, pitch,
from the aerosols industry, the AMA golf
Africa, Afrox, Liquitel, Spraymate, Triton-Leo,
marker and pegs sponsored by Liquitel;
day prize giving dinner is fast becoming
Dabur, Khaya International Packaging, Rust-
an AMA branded aerosol sun care
a must-attend social event. There were
Oleum and Ecomist while Metcan, Nampak
product sponsored by Prime Product
a number of guests who joined the
Divfood and P C Review sponsored the
and a bottle of Rust-Oleum Neverwet
association just for the dinner to benefit
individual prizes.
sponsored by Spraymate.
from the chance to network.
To keep the golfers hydrated, there were
wine was sponsored by NCP Alcohols. The
Rudy Mclean of Symrise, industry
If you are interested in entering a fourball in the 2019 AMA golf day, attending as a
four watering holes on the course sponsored
consultant Peggy van Manen and Chris
dinner guest or sponsoring a prize, send an
by Nampak Divfood, Precision Valve South
Waldron of Nampak Divfood were presented
e-mail to execdir@aerosol.co.za for more
Africa, Afrox and Puregas.
with honourary membership certificates.
information about next year’s event. •
PRIZE GIVING AND GOLF DAY HIGHLIGHTS
AMA GOLF DAY SCORES • In first place, the Puregas fourball scored 99
• In eighth place, the Precision Valve South Africa fourball scored 88
• In second place, the Chemlink fourball scored 96
• In ninth place, Puregas’ second fourball scored 87
• In third place, Chemlink’s second fourball scored 95
• Tied in 10th place, the Prime Product and Chep fourballs
• Tied in fourth place, the Ecomist and Metcan fourballs both scored 94
both scored 85
• Tied in fifth place, the Divfood and Synvita fourballs both scored 91
• In 11th place, the Afrox fourball scored 79
• In sixth place, the Clarke Colours fourball scored 90
• In 12th place, the A-Gas fourball scored 75
• In seventh place, the Symrise fourball scored 89
• In 13th place, the Spraymate fourball scored 48
P C Review | OCTOBER 2018 |
49
Tea time
Test your knowledge on skin!
TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive
+27 (0)82 976 6541
Carla Melless Sales executive
+27 (0)83 260 6060
Candida Giambo-Kruger
Quiz: 1. What are the three layers of the skin from the outside in? 2. Which vitamin is produced by the skin? 3. What’s the most dangerous type of skin cancer? 4. How does an antihistamine soothe itchy skin? 5. What causes freckles or pigmentation? 6. Which of the cells are the most abundant in the epidermis? 7. Which layer of the epidermis contains melanocytes? 8. What is the name of the fibrous protein responsible for the strength and water resistance of the skin’s surface?
Sales executive
+27 (0)71 438 1918
ADVERTISERS' INDEX
Answers: 1. epidermis, dermis, hypodermis; 2. vitamin D; 3. melanoma; 4. it blocks the chemical reaction; 5. melanin; 6. keratinocytes; 7. stratum basale; 8. keratin
A-Thermal Retort Technologies ................ 11.........www.athermal.co.za Brenntag..................................................37.........www.brenntag.com/south-africa Bruker...................................................... 19.........www.bruker.com/optics Carst & Walker.........................................33.........www.gattefosse.com ChemSystems..........................................31.........www.chemsystems.co.za Chempure...............................................36.........www.chempure.co.za CJP Chemicals........................................39.........www.cjpchemicals.co.za Crest Chemicals......................................22.........www.crestchemicals.co.za Croda South Africa.................................. IFC.........www.crodapersonalcare.com Evonik......................................................22.........www.evonik.com Future Publishing Solutions................... OBC.........www.saphex.co.za IMCD.......................................................25.........www.imcdgroup.com Kirsch Pharma South Africa................... OFC.........www.kirschpharma.com
50
| OCTOBER 2018 | P C Review
Labotec/ELGA LabWater........................... 17.........www.labotec.co.za Materia Medica....................................... 34.........www.materiamedica.co.za Millchem................................................ 29.........www.millchem.co.za Moco Packaging......................................45.........www.mocopack.co.za Precision Valve South Africa.....................23.........www.precisionglobal.com Progetto International................................5.........www.progetto.co.za Puregas...................................................21.........www.puregas.co.za Rettenmaier South Africa.........................42.........www.rettenmaier.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals........................27.........www.savannah.co.za SDK Agencies..........................................35.........www.sdkagencies.com Serendipity Toiletries................................30.........www.serendipitytoiletries.co.za Verder Pumps.......................................... 18.........www.verder.co.za
Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of Cosmetic
Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery Systems,
Chemists’ website will find information
Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients, Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam
on membership, educational
Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and other Oils, Shea and other Butters,
programmes (specific details
Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin & Derivatives
pertaining to the Cosmetic Science
Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za
Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.
www.coschem.co.za
M&L LABORATORY M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water & Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility, licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com
Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical & cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.
Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za
FORMPAK
BRB SILICONES
For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing, packaging
The largest independent producer in the world of core and
and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.
Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com
specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.
www.brb-international.com
LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER
QUANTUM COLOURS SA
Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme offers support
Your No. 1 industry leader for the
to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social needs and well being.
most comprehensive ranges of both
At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across SA, cosmetics
synthetic and natural colours – used
are used as tools to address visible side effects of treatment to assist patients
in food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic and
to restore self-esteem and face the world
industrial applications.
with confidence.
www.lgfb.co.za
Tablet coatings – manufactured, supplied and marketed globally under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC
www.quantumcolours.co.za
REGISTER TODAY FOR FREE Access Free Seminars Over 50 countries represented Network over 2000+ pre-registered visitors See over 120+ local & international exhibitors Don’t miss Africa’s leading pharma show
SPONSORED BY:
SUPPORTED BY:
SAPHEX 1st - 2nd November 2018 sc@saphex.co.za Gallagher Convention Centre, Johannesburg, South Africa www.saphex.co.za/event-registration +44 (0) 0203 198 9622