SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
September 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 9
www.pharmacos.co.za
Reshaping the perception of beauty
CURLS & WAVES How to care for textured hair 2018 NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION Feedback from the judging day Contract manufacturers with a competitive edge
COSMETIC SOLUTIONS
SKINCARE / PERSONAL CARE / FRAGRANCE / COSMETICS
YOUR BRAND + OUR COSMETIC PRIVATE LABEL MANUFACTURING EXPERTISE = YOUR MARKET INNOVATION Call us for your cosmetic needs… from formulations & cosmetic packaging to third party manufacturing EMAIL: info@sdkagencies.com OFFICE: +27 11 314 0020 I FAX: +27 11 314 3499
WE BRING YOUR BRANDED COSMETIC IDEAS TO LIFE
Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
September 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 9
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
6 NEWS
Financial results at Evonik exceed expectations
Crodarom and Sederma go carbon neutral
16
Vital Health Foods
14 EVENTS
Wacker promotes new silicone technologies in SA
16 CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
Go for GMP compliance, choose Vital
New ownership and a fresh focus for SDK
24 ETHNIC CARE
30
Manage curls with
Embrace sensory science with Cithrol PGTL
Meet the beauty needs of a diverse market
A proven solution to manage curls and waves
Repair and strengthen textured hair with Ama-prot
Botanical actives and the natural hair trend
Why glycolic acid is also good for hair
Sensient Technologies acquires Mazza Innovation
Reduce frizz with coconut-avocado hair milk
Ama-prot 40
gets creative
38 PHARMA FOCUS:
SUPPLY CHAIN & DISTRIBUTION
Cleaning
Logistics and its critical role in the fight against Aids
40 HOME CARE
Private label brands and new innovations
43 The latest from Omron’s Innovation Conference
41 44 Filling & Sealing Equipment
MGSA Consulting rebrands
46 Sustainable Packaging
& Practices
Recycling – a crucial link in the value chain
48 ASSOCIATION NEWS
The latest developments from the AMA and Coschem
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
3
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
THE TEAM
curls
Crazy for
T
EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Andipha Nkoloti Contributors: Carolina Lourenco, Karen Maier, Adelino Nakano, Marcia Paula, Gerhard Schmaus, Gabriele Vielhaber.
he Ethnic or textured hair category
business into an innovative, technology driven
ADVERTISING
has become a massive industry
and customer centric company.
Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za
driven mainly by consumer demand. Women and even men with curly,
Pharma supply chains have become more complex than ever. To improve patient
Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za
wavy and coiled hair have been frustrated for
access and achieve healthcare goals, new
years at the lack of products on the market to
distribution models are tabled regularly. In
meet their unique needs. This has changed
fact, modern pharma supply chains have
Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za
with brand owners realising these consumers
become a crucial weapon in the war against
INTERNATIONAL SALES
purchase far more products than their straight-
Aids. Imperial Health Sciences’ successes in
haired counterparts.
this regard is celebrated on page 38, with a
Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de
In this edition of P C Review, we’ve put
look at how the company supplies sustainable,
textured hair first, in our extensive Ethnic hair
affordable and quality medicines to the
care section on page 24. The feature includes
people of Africa.
a series of articles that focus on proven
This month, our regular PACKAGING
technologies and ingredients to help manage
REVIEW section has a variety of interesting
natural curls and waves, care for the scalp
reads. Aarifah Nosarka attended Omron’s
and maintain hair styles such as afros, braids
Innovation Conference in August. She shares
and weaves.
a local perspective on Industry 4.0 and
For all the brands that entered our New Product Competition sponsored by Symrise and MCC Labels, we know you’re dying to
CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM
on page 43.
General Manager: Dev Naidoo
MGSA’s rebrand and restructuring of the company are featured on page 44 along
we can’t reveal the winner just yet, we have
with some of the recent filling and sealing
shared an overview of the judges’ feedback
machinery innovations from Marchesini.
In the contract manufacturing feature on
Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk
i-Automation from the experts at Omron
find out the results of the judging day. While
and general findings on page 12.
Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com
To offer more valuable content and increase dialogue with our PACKAGING REVIEW
page 16, we track Vital Health Foods’ journey
readers, the brand has launched a dedicated
to becoming a leader in producing effective,
Facebook page. To join this community,
ethical and quality vitamins and health
search @packagingreview on Facebook
supplements. P C Review also has the scoop
and like our page for regular and
on SDK Agencies’ change of ownership. This
insightful updates.
prominent contract manufacturer underwent
Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
a management buyout in 2017 and the
I hope you enjoy
Bridget McCarney
new owners have already transformed the
this edition!
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR John Psillos NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD
HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
Consultant, drbaileys.com
Dr Trevor Baillie
Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
John Knowlton
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Vivian Frittelli
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
4
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
New solutions for
TODAY‘S PRESERVATION CHALLENGES THIS IS CLARIANT: SPECIALITY CHEMICALS CREATING VALUE
Real beauty is on the inside. That is our reason to develop gentle ingredients for the skin to take care of your formulation. Our prime innovative preservative systems from the Nipaguard® range - COSMOS approved - pioneered by the inspiration of long lasting stability and sustainability market needs offers a cost-effective solution with superior performance.
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CLARIANT.COM/PERSONALCARE
NEWS
EVONIK’S Q2 PRELIMINARY RESULTS EXCEED EXPECTATIONS IN THE SECOND quarter of 2018, Evonik increased its adjusted EBITDA to €742 million (prior year: €640 million). All three chemical segments contributed to the excellent operational business development, increasing their adjusted EBITDA as well as EBITDA margin compared to the same quarter of the previous year. Sales increased to €3.9 billion in the second quarter (prior year: €3.6 billion), largely due to higher sales volumes and higher selling prices. Adjusted net income was €354 million, which corresponds to adjusted earnings per share of €0.76. The adjusted EBITDA margin rose to 19.2 percent, 1.5 percentage points higher than the same period of the previous year. The adjusted EBITDA and adjusted earnings per share are significantly above current market expectations (analyst consensus: €691 million, €0.70 per share). As a result, Evonik was obligated to publish preliminary numbers on 2 August. ‘We are continuing to execute our strategy consistently,’ says Christian Kullmann, chairman of the executive board. ‘This is also reflected in our operational business development. In addition to the continuing strong demand in our growth engines, our strong
quarterly results show the first signs of success of our administration and sales efficiency programme.’ Based on its excellent performance in the first half of the year, Evonik has increased its outlook for the 2018 fiscal year and is now expecting an adjusted EBITDA of between €2.60 and €2.65 billion, previously projected between €2.4 and €2.6 billion. The outlook for free cash flow has also been increased. Evonik projects a notably higher free cash flow for the 2018 fiscal year compared to 2017. At €1.2 billion, sales in the Nutrition & Care segment were slightly above 2017 figures. Adjusted earnings rose by 10 percent to €222 million (prior-year: €201 million). The segment has been able to significantly increase its adjusted EBITDA margin to 18.7 percent (same quarter of prior-year: 17.3 percent). This was achieved with a consistent focus on higher margin products, successfully passing on increased raw material costs and strict cost reductions, especially in animal nutrition and baby care. Significant sales increases were also reported in personal care, which benefited from considerably higher volumes and an improved product mix.
including improvement of hair gloss
amino acid with
6
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Crodarom and Sederma achieve carbon neutral manufacturing PART OF CRODA International, Sederma and Crodarom have become carbon neutral by investing in their manufacturing operations to reduce carbon emissions. This is also achieved by carbon offsetting through ClimateCare and a project in Indonesia, which protects the environment and improves people’s lives in the Rimba Raya area. The project drives forest protection and provides funding for community initiatives. Arnaud Fournial, MD of Crodarom and Sederma, comments: ‘The Rimba Raya project relies on funding from businesses like ours which take full responsibility for their carbon footprint. With sustainability being at the very core of the Croda Group culture and a high priority for many of our customers, I am very pleased the area will remain an important carbon sink as a result of our support. The area is also a biodiverse ecosystem and we will help to deliver environmental, social and financial benefits to the community.’ The Rimba Raya Biodiversity Reserve looks after 44 263ha of tropical rainforest and peat swamp and helps to protect 90 endangered species including the Borneo bay cat and the Bornean agile gibbon and orangutan, by funding a network of forest patrols to prevent encroachment by palm oil estates and illegal loggers. Funding is also used for reforestation efforts, which creates employment by paying communities for growing the seedlings required for reforestation. In line with their strong social and environmental activities, Sederma and Crodarom continue to identify risks and opportunities by managing impacts with specific actions on raw materials sourcing and ‘green’ performance along their value chain and with the organisation. These principles are shared with their stakeholders with the aim of connecting them on the premise sustainable values and encouraging them to adopt appropriate unity members comm by lled insta ls practices.• pane Solar area, within Indonesia’s Rimba Raya offset carbon where Crodarom and Sederma re teCa Clima gh throu ions emiss
STREET 1 Refresh & tone
4 A specialist in anti-ageing
New from African Extracts, the Advantage Misting Toner is formulated with antioxidant rich bioactive rooibos. Its bouquet of floral extracts moisturise and protect the
1
skin from environmental aggressors. These include aloe vera for its soothing and calming properties, witch hazel to purify and minimise pores, chamomile to even skin’s tone and everlasting and daisy flowers for their anti-ageing and radiance inducing benefits. Visit www. africanextracts.com for more on this new product.
2 Supercharged skin care
Cosmetiq e offers a full range of skin care products rich in vitamin E and other anti-ageing ingredients. The products are of exceptional quality, proven effective and were formulated in South Africa by the late Dr Harry Gordon. Vitamins E and C in Cosmetiq e products penetrate the skin’s surface to revitalise cells, improving texture and elasticity. They also contain herbal allantoin to soothe and soften skin, especially after sun exposure. Azulen, an extract of the Chamomile plant, also soothes sensitive skin. Mucopolysaccharides and Propylenglycol are included in the formulations to retain skin’s moisture
AQ Skin Solutions products are
and maintain its resilience.
patented and formulated with human
Shop Cosmetiq e products online at
growth factor technology. The range
www.cosmetiqeantiaging.com.
includes the AQ Eye Serum, which has several smoothing peptides that help tighten sagging skin, smooth wrinkles and decrease the appearance of fine lines. The serum also assists with micro-circulation of the under-eye area, addressing bags and dark circles. For more about the brand and its offerings, connect with @ AQSkinSolutionsSA on Facebook.
3 Power shower body wipes
4
2
3
combined with neroli. Its charm is immediately apparent in the sophisticated notes of rose absolute. Hers plays with the power of seduction as vanilla mixes with
is conveyed by sage at its aromatic
formulated to kill 99 percent of
heart. His incorporates Mane’s
known germs and odour causing
smoky Vanilla Jungle Essence, which
bacteria, keeping skin refreshed,
falls in love with the sugar-coated
clean and moisturised. This product
chestnut accord. Both fragrances
is available in a lightly fragranced or
are packaged in sensual bottles with
a fragrance-free variant, packaged
cleansing water is scarce.
and sparkling like a ripe raspberry
violet leaves. The confidence of his
are alcohol free and specially
and deliver an effective method of
from Armani. Hers is happy, delicious
cardamom, pink peppercorn and
for head to toe hygiene. They
the wipes are ideal for travelling
it’s YOU are new fragrance launches
the top notes made up of a mix of
Wipes are gentle and effective
Manufactured by NSP Unsgaard,
Stronger with YOU and Because
musk. His boats a spicy accord in
Hygenix Touch Body Hygiene
in a tube of 40s wipes with a clip-lid.
5 New scents for YOU
5
rounded forms and curves.
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
7
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DIARY 2018
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| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
January 2019 COSME Tech 2019 30 January to 1 February Makuhari Messe, Japan www.cosme-i.jp/en
Gallagher Convention Centre
Johannesburg, South Africa
JOIN OVER 2000+ PHARMA PROFESSIONALS AT SAPHEX 2018 SAPHEX is now established as the “go-to” pharmaceutical manufacturing event in South Africa, and is a fixture on the calendar of key pharmaceutical professionals who attend to see best-in-class product and service suppliers, and too access peer-driven papers at the sister content-rich conference. The exhibition brings together all the key suppliers to the region’s pharmaceutical manufacturing base, exhibitors presenting a full range of APIs, excipients, and drug formulations; pharmaceutical packaging solutions; processing machinery and equipment; laboratory equipment; and clean room technology. There really is every reason to secure your place at SAPHEX as soon as possible, and no reason to delay. Register Free today (limited free of charge conference places apply)
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P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
9
COMPANY FOCUS
We’re making it big in Africa!
IMCD South Africa continues to grow in the African market. All East African business operations are overseen by IMCD Kenya, which has developed an excellent reputation among customers for its one stop shop solution. P C Review looks at what makes IMCD Kenya a reliable supplier. Categories to watch
another interesting one to watch and, of
In the East African market, the Ethnic hair
course, we still receive requests for skin
care category is a major growth vector.
lightening products. Yet there’s a definite move away from
Abdi says there is a lot happening in terms
T
of product development with a general
hydroquinone towards safe ingredients that
move towards products formulated with
don’t damage the skin,’ he comments. A
natural oils.
light and pure complexion is perceived as a sign of beauty in most parts of the world,
The natural hair care movement is o expand its existing operations in
growing with consumers embracing
including South Africa. Belides ORG from
Africa, IMCD acquired Chemicals
their curls and afro hair. This is seeing
CLR Chemisches Laboratorium, an IMCD
and Solvents in 2016. Today, this
an increased demand
principal, is a natural skin lightening agent
operation is known as IMCD Kenya,
for products that aid
derived from Bellis perennis,
which has established a strong position in
manageability and nourish
the organic daisy flower. It
the East African region. Based in Nairobi,
and nurture the scalp, like
is suitable for any skin care
IMCD Kenya distributes ingredients to
the Triple Action Scalp Fluid
formulation developed to
the personal care and cosmetics, home
formulation from IMCD
provide an even and luminous
care and I&I, food and pharmaceutical
South Africa featured in
complexion and radiant skin.
industries, serving Kenya and the
Table 1. Manufacturers
neighbouring markets of Uganda, Tanzania,
are still producing relaxer
Rwanda and Ethiopia. It also benefits
products yet there is a
from the robust international network and
notable shift away from
cross-fertilisation of technical expertise and
sodium hydroxide, also
market knowledge of IMCD to realise its full
known as lye, to calcium
business potential.
hydroxide, which is milder on the hair and
in melanogenesis, encompassing the
scalp. ‘The male grooming category is
reduction of cellular signalling, tyrosinase
The company’s commercial manager,
The action of the active is based on a potent,
IMCD Kenya’ commercial manager, Faisal Abdi
multifaceted reduction in the activity of melanocytes. Belides ORG influences different cellular pathways involved
Faisal Abdi, heads the IMCD Kenya office and is supported by several technical sales managers who are responsible for the various business units. ‘IMCD Kenya is a market leader in the industries it serves,
Table 1: Triple Action Scalp Fluid
PHASE
INGREDIENTS (TRADE NAMES)
A
Water
INGREDIENTS (INCI)
% W/W 81.99
Vanzan
Xantham Gum
multinationals and leading manufacturers
Trisodium Citrate Dihydrate
Sodium Citrate
0.10
in Nairobi and surrounding areas are
Glycerin
Glycerine
5.00
Decaglyn 1 L
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
3.00
Vitamin F Forte
Linolei Acid, Linolenic Acid
0.50
Tocomix L70-Ip
Tocopherol Rich Extract, Sunflower Oil
0.01
Follicusan Dp
Water, Alcohol Denatured, Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, Milk Protein, Lactose, Inositol, Acetyl Cystein, Acetyl Methionine, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid
5.00
Syricalm
Water, Phragmites Communis Extract, Poria Cocos Extract
3.00
Optiphen 200
Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol
0.80
Naoh 10%
Water, Sodium Hydroxide
0.30
including personal care. Most of the
our customers,’ says Abdi. ‘We have an excellent reputation for providing reliable
B
ex-stock supply. We offer a one stop shop solution for broad range of speciality chemicals and food ingredients.
C
Our customers enjoy solid technical support from our technical sales team, which is extended to the IMCD application labs, particularly the Ethnic Care Centre of Excellence in South Africa and our key principal suppliers.’
10
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
D
0.30
COMPANY FOCUS personal care, cold mixing shampoos for example in temporary shelters, kiosks or even in the open. While Jua Kali is not heavily regulated, Abdi says it’s a strong market.
A market leader IMCD Kenya has maintained a strong position as a leading distributor serving the home care and I&I, personal care, pharmaceutical, food and nutrition industries, with the addition of an industrial science business unit. ‘We will continue to build on our success by offering customers comprehensive support along with the reliable supply and formulation development for which IMCD is known globally. We are also strengthening our transcription, tyrosinase activity and
the region, along with the global pharma
human resources by recruiting more
melanosome transfer. These actions
manufacturer, GSK and a joint venture
individuals to boost our already strong
lead to even pigmentation and make
between Aspen and a Kenyan pharma
technical sales team and leveraging on
age spots less visible. CLR’s in vitro results
company. Kenya also has its own personal
the technical resources of the IMCD group,’
demonstrate that Belides ORG acts as a
care manufacturing companies, which are
he adds. IMCD South Africa will strive to
functional ingredient at different stages of
well equipped with automated technology
continue its African expansion using a highly
melanogenesis. By influencing pathways
and produce products to high standards.
strategic approach.
of action before, during and after melanin
Then there are medium and smaller sized
synthesis, Belides ORG effectively reduces
brand owners that produce products in
possible acquisition targets in regions where
skin pigmentation.
house, similar to those in South Africa. The
product gaps and opportunities have been
only way Kenya’s personal care industry
Extensive infrastructure
identified and in hubs presenting an agile
differs is there are no personal care
supply chain model and storage strength to
IMCD Kenya is unique to its sister company
contract manufacturers. There is a robust
support IMCD’s ‘just in time’ approach. •
in South Africa and the other parts of
informal market in Nairobi too, commonly
Africa as it manages its warehousing
known as Jua Kali, which means ‘hot/fierce
and distribution in house. The company’s
sun’ in Swahili. These small businesses or
infrastructure is extensive, with a modern
artisans serve many industries, including
This will be done organically and through
IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com
warehouse, fleet of vehicles and administrative offices located in Nairobi.
The Ethnic hair care category is a major growth vector Since the 2016 acquisition, the warehouse has been upgraded in terms of its systems and processes, which was followed by IMCD Kenya securing its ISO certification. ‘More than 90 percent of our customers
An exterior view of IMCD Kenya’s administrative offices located in Nairobi IMCD Kenya’s warehousing infrastructure
are based in Nairobi, which puts us in an ideal position to maintain key customer relationships through on time and in time delivery of raw materials and samples,’ Abdi explains. ‘For the other 10 percent of customers in outlying areas, we outsource distribution.’ Nairobi is a major industrial hub for the East African region. Abdi says the majority of multinational personal care manufacturers, like Beiersdorf and Unilever, are located in
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
11
NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION
Have you ticked all the innovation boxes?
We received 20 entries for the 2018 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition, which were analysed on 2 August by an esteemed panel of judges. The judging day took place at Media Park, the home of New Media, in Auckland Park, Johannesburg. By Abby Vorster
I
nnovation doesn’t require a complex concept. In fact, a simplified idea is more
Glover and Tony de Beer • Richard Weir, creative director of Gullan
likely to resonate with your target market
& Gullan Digital, who judged marketing,
than an overly complex one. Ultimately,
social media and brand execution.
a strong desire or need must be met in a new or unique way. In the cosmetics
An improvement on quality
context, innovation is measured by the
While the general feedback from the
complete offering. It’s a clear concept that
formulation judges was that there was ‘a
meets a need, ticks all the boxes in terms of
definite improvement on the 2018 entries
regulatory compliance and incorporates
compared to last year’s products’ the entries
advanced ingredients and sensory science
are still lacking in the area of novel or unique
into the product design.
ingredients. Brands seem to play it safe,
Packaging also matters – this should never be an afterthought. Packaging choices should form part of the new product
sticking to common ingredients and basic base formulations. There were one or two entries that
Paris is calling! While every product entered into the competition receives extensive exposure in P C Review, on our social media pages and online platform, www.pharmacos.co.za, the brand owner of the winning product receives a trip to in-cosmetics Global 2019. The international trade show for the cosmetics industry is taking place in Paris, France from 2 to 4 April. The prize includes flights, accommodation and entry into the exhibition. The winner of the 2018 P C Review/ Symrise NPC will be revealed at the awards ceremony on 11 October, in Johannesburg.
development process and need to live up
stood out for their use of novel ingredients,
to the brand promise through the smart
yet this was not communicated on the
telling stories from as early as the 1920s and
combination of compatible components
packaging. This is the perfect example of
there is no reason for the storytelling to end.
and tactile finishes. These elements form part
a lost opportunity to promote a product’s
Be sure to make your story interesting, base
of the judging process for the P C Review/
uniqueness or sell the brand’s story.
it on a unique or novel ingredient, expert
Symrise New Product Competition. This year,
Because cosmetics, or the use thereof,
content or a brand promise on which
the panel of judges included:
involve the senses, brands need to pay more
• Robyn Brown, owner of Botanichem and
attention to the sensory evaluation of their
Elizna Hurter, manager of the chemist
products. The judges did wonder whether
Regulations in check
department at SkinChem Manufacturing
the technological limitations in our country,
It seems many brands have gone into
Laboratory, who judged formulations,
particularly for the smaller brand owners,
hiding when it comes to on-pack claims.
ingredients and product aesthetics
are a barrier to evaluating the sensorial
Yet a quick browse of the internet and
performance of a product to ensure it meets
social media pages shows brands
Percy Sibanda, scientific and regulatory
consumers’ expectations. Some sound
are using digital marketing platforms
affairs advisor of L’Oréal South Africa, who
advice for all brand owners, big and small,
to convey their major and often non-
assessed regulatory compliance
is to connect with your target market using
compliant messages to consumers. The
• industry consultant Jill Gardiner and
a relatable story. Beauty brands have been • packaging industry consultants, Zinplex Cosmeceutical Advert.pdfClive 1 2018/08/23 11:58:14
you can deliver.
advice from the judges is, it’s important to
Manufacturers of Cosmetic, Hair & Body Products
C
From Development to Production
M
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R&D, formulating and stability in our fully equipped laboratory • Small to large scale batches • Quality, efficient and friendly customer service • mark registered Customer confidentiality guaranteed with NDA’s in place.
CM
MY
CY
Production capabilities: Hair, Body and Skin Care, Liquid Sachet filling, Dry Product filling, Powders, Creams, Lotions, Butters, Gels and Oils.
CMY
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Zinplex Cosmeceutical (Pty) Ltd. t: 086 111 9462 • f: 012 803 9283 • e: cosmeceutical@zinplex.co.za
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| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Terms and Conditions Apply
NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION remember the regulatory requirements
Our marketing judge felt a lot of the New Product Competition entries
for product claims apply to digital
had mixed messaging across their various digital platforms, which
marketing and compliance must
becomes noise and can put off the consumer from wanting to
transcend all platforms. It was noted
know more.
long standing brands continue to comply with EU regulations, as the proposed regulations for the South
1
African cosmetics industry are still in draft format. And brands that entered last year and struggled with compliance, fared much better this year
Keep it simple, stay true to your brand’s story and make sure you can validate any major statements
in terms of their regulatory scores. For newcomers to the industry, regulatory growing
Keep it simple, stay true to your brand’s story and make sure you can
pains are a given, from an incorrect format
validate any major statements. Beauty consumers have evolved,
for the nominal fill and medicinal claims on
becoming highly educated on ingredients and claims. If you want
packaging inserts to on-pack spelling errors
them to trust your brand, give them solutions that work, fit their
and mismatched INCI listings. P C Review
lifestyle and offer value for money without necessarily being cheap.
has published a series of compliance columns
2
on all these requirements, giving the brand
Pick your packs well
owner complimentary access to qualified
Due to hefty minimum order requirements from local packaging
information, which would usually cost a fee
suppliers, most of the smaller brand owners are still looking to the Far
from consultants. All the columns are written
East for their packaging needs. Either local suppliers need to adjust
by regulatory experts, which assist brands on their
their minimums to support SMEs or China will continue to make a
journey towards compliance.
big profit from supplying packaging to the South African cosmetics industry. The quality of packaging manufactured in China continues
3
Honest marketing
to improve, making manufacturers from the region all the more
Brands need to remember they are competing on
favourable as reliable and affordable suppliers. For established
all platforms. Social media pages and websites
brands in a position to purchase larger volumes of packaging
for products or brands won’t sell themselves. They
from local suppliers, the judges noted a marked improvement in
require constant promotion, bearing in mind
the quality of their packing, particularly the PET packs and carton
consistency between your website, brand or
and board. ‘Producers are using the correct polymers for plastic
products and value proposition is key. Consumers
packaging which is very encouraging from an industry perspective,’
want brands they can believe in, so you can’t
the judges noted.
make sweeping statements on
There is still a gap in the market for more packaging innovation.
social media platforms and
With MCC Labels on board as the sponsor of the Packaging
websites with no substantiation
Category of the competition, P C Review hopes to close these
or customer testimonials.
gaps through education and awareness. MCC Labels has sponsored a special prize for the winner of the Packaging Category,
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1: Richard Weir 2: Elizna Hurter and Robyn Brown 3: Tony de Beer and Clive Glover 4: Jill Gardiner and Percy Sibanda
including a site visit to its personal care labelling facility in Cape Town as well as insight into what makes packaging innovative. •
MCC Labels – www.mcclabel.com/south-africa Symrise – www.symrise.com
• Contract manufacture of bath/body/beauty/anti-ageing products • We have no brands of our own and therefore do not compete with our customers • Offer a turnkey operation from concept to launch of all products • Formulation development for local and international markets • Perform stability/micro testing for all products • Source new packaging locally and internationally • Sun protection
Tel: +27 (0)12 803 7999/+27 (0)12 803 0761/+27 (0)83 285 8830 Email: andre@serendipitytoiletries.com/ madelein@serendipitytoiletries.com | www.serendipitytoiletries.co.za
Serendipity.indd 1
2018/04/05 12:07 PM
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
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EVENTS
The beauty of Silicones Wacker Chemicals Middle East, which oversees the Middle East and Africa regions, together with IMCD, hosted a technical workshop on silicone technology for the personal care industry.
T
1
he event took place at the Indaba Hotel
3526 VP improves the spreadability of
in Johannesburg and was organised
oils and has SPF boosting properties.
in cooperation with Wacker’s official distributor, IMCD South Africa. Wacker’s
He also shared tips on the best way to formulate with silicone resin
technical manager, Dr Feier-Iova, presented
elastomer gels. The ideal time to add
technological developments on how to
a silicone resin elastomer gel to your
achieve special effects in hair care, skin care
formulation, depends on the type
and makeup applications using the company’s
of emulsion. For o/w formulations,
BELSIL range of high quality silicones.
add the silicone resin elastomer
A natural protector
gel to the oil phase by heating and homogenising the emulsion. For w/o
Hair care products, ranging from shampoos
formulations, the silicone should be
and conditioners to treatments and styling
added after emulsification and once
products, are an indispensable part of
the emulsion has cooled. Dr Feier-Iova
consumers’ lives. Apart from the need to
advised workshop attendees to take
cleanse and style hair, damage protection
care when working with a gel based on a
is key, as we all have some degree of hair
volatile solvent and to always control the
damage. This can affect shine, manageability
temperature of the formulation.
and the hair’s general appearance. Silicones have a long history of use in hair-
Made to look good
care applications because of their multiple
Key beauty products include a foundation
benefits. These include improved wet and dry
that gives perfect coverage or a lipstick
combing, manageability, conditioning and
that spreads evenly, leaving an attractive
heat protection. At the Wacker personal care
and long-lasting film. Without WACKER’s
workshop, Dr Feier-Iova discussed the extensive
BELSIL TMS 803, BELSIL P 1101 and
special effects and benefits of BELSIL ADM 8301
BELSIL WO 5000, it would be very
E, BELSIL ADM 6300 E, BELSIL P 1101 and BELSIL PF
challenging to achieve these and
200 in hair care applications.
other special effects in makeup and
BELSIL ADM 6300 E is a film-forming, non-ionic macro emulsion of an amino-functional silicone
BELSIL P 1101 is a silicone hybrid polymer for nail polish applications.
hair. It mimics the hydrophobicity of natural hair
It provides a very smooth film, good
and has been proven to provide colour and
surface adhesion properties, high
heat protection benefits.
scratch resistance and quick drying time. A versatile emulsifier for water helps stabilise pigment dispersions. In
benefits in skin care products. According to
a foundation formulation, it aids the
Wacker, silicone elastomer and resin elastomer
homogenous distribution of pigments and
gels (REG) are suitable for skin and sun care
imparts a velvety soft skin feel. Similar workshops will take place in the future;
1102, BELSIL EG 6000 and BELSIL CDM 3526 VP
you may express your interest to attend by
during the workshop.
emailing info.dubai@wacker.com. •
BELSIL Reg 1102 is a unique silicone resin elastomer gel with a long-lasting effect, BELSIL EG 6000 is a non-resin elastomer gel that provides a unique silky touch and BELSIL CDM
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| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
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in silicone oil systems, BELSIL WO 5000
BELSIL silicones offer a great variety of functional
products. Dr Feier-Iova discussed BELSIL Reg
3
colour cosmetics.
for improving seriously damaged thick or curly
Sound formulation advice
2
IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup.com Wacker Middle East & Africa – www.wacker.com
1: The Wacker and IMCD South Africa teams 2: Kirsten Scott from Wacker was used as a model for the makeup demonstration 3: Colour cosmetics formulated with BELSIL TMS 803, BELSIL P 1101 and BELSIL WO 5000 4: Delegates who attended the event received a jam packed goody bag from Wacker and IMCD
VITAL HEALTH FOODS CONTRACT MANUFACTURING SOLUTIONS At Vital, we are more than just a contract manufacturer. Our plant is a world class producer of Complementary Medicines and Health Supplements. We offer a full turnkey solution with a fully integrated Quality Assurance system. We are backed by cGMP accreditation (from SAHPRA, the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority), integrity, trust, quality, innovation and a high standard of service excellence & communication. Our areas of expertise include but is not limited to: • Soft-gel capsules, two part capsules, coated/uncoated tablets, liquid and powder manufacturing • Various forms of packaging options – doy, glass, plastic, blister, fill form & seal • Regulatory Experts • Research & Development: Formulation • Research & Development: Analytical • Quality Assurance • Quality Control
For more information, please contact us at: Telephone: +27 21 900 2500 Email: health@vital.co.za Website: www.vital.co.za Address: Lavender Lane, Kuils River, Cape Town 7580
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
Vital goes the extra mile on quality and ethics Vital Health Foods continues to inspire better health for families. As a leading, GMP approved contract manufacturer, the company is driven to turn customers’ ideas into a working reality. By Abby Vorster
W
hile its beginnings may
‘The original vision of the company
have been humble, Vital
still exists today,’ says Mark Stone, Vital’s
Health Foods (Vital) has
operations executive. ‘We’re extremely
grown from Africa’s first
proud to be the leading supplement
QC supervisor performing an API potency assay on a HPLC
Capabilities and packaging formats
health foods company into a household
manufacturer in Africa, with international
• soft gelatin capsules – pastes and oils
name. It was launched in Wellington,
exports and markets worldwide.’
• tabletting and tablet coating
Western Cape in 1974 by Jack Grieve, a
Vital’s brand heritage of 71 years
• hard gelatin capsules
serial entrepreneur and chemist, who
is based on quality products and
• liquids filling
was driven to bring improved health and
ethical manufacturing, making it a
• rice and corn cakes
wellness to South African families.
trusted partner for all your contract
• plastic and glass containers
manufacturing needs.
• doy packaging
The plant is now based in Kuilsrivier and has recently undergone a full
‘Initially the business specialised in
• blister packs • form, fill and seal.
refurbishment of the foods factory, while
soya-based goods and other nutritional
the pharma packing facility has been
supplements. It later introduced vitamins
revamped in line with cGMP and includes
and was one of the first companies to
the installation of a new blister line. New
produce soft-gel capsules as opposed to
quality and regulatory departments
soft gelatine technology has been ordered
the round, hard tablets,’ Stone explains.
with, amongst others, seven on site,
and will be commissioned in December.
It was around 2010 with the rise of
permanently employed pharmacists and
private label brands in South Africa
a food technologist who oversees quality
that Vital was asked to manufacture a
assurance and regulatory compliance.
dealer owned brand (DOB) on a third
Dr Anneli Heyns, Vital’s product
party basis. Today, DOBs make up a
development manager, comments: ‘Our
significant share of the business and
regulatory department has extensive
what was initially done as a favour, kick
expertise in the current regulatory
started Vital’s journey to grow its contract
requirements for complementary
manufacturing offering.
medicines, including discipline specific products. We can help customers achieve
Unmatched technical expertise
compliance by recommending the right
With the emphasis on healthcare
testing for a new product in order for a
shifting from treatment to prevention,
dossier to be submitted for registration
complementary medicines (CAMs), which
and can help maintain stability once
include herbals, vitamins, minerals and
a product is launched and routinely
other health supplements, have a crucial
manufactured. We can also provide
role to play in preventative healthcare.
suggestions on how to improve a
The key to success in this category largely
formulation and packaging in the
lies in quality and regulatory compliance,
case of a stability failure and provide
which ensure products deliver on their
possible reasons for the failure.’
promise in terms of quality, safety and Labelling machine on Vital's packing line
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| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Vital’s interpretation of the
efficacy throughout their shelf life.
guidelines for discipline specific
Vital has one of the country’s strongest
products are that all herbal
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
ingredients need to be stability tested
validation, pilot and manufacturing scale
up to the required shelf life. ‘New
trials with stability testing, regulatory
products require at least three months
support, distribution to the client’s
accelerated data and nine months
channel of choice according to Good
bench data at the time of submission
Distribution Practices, packing into bulk
in order to be registered,’ she adds.
or finished products and manufacturing
‘For health supplements, you need
according to GMP standards – all
to test the least stable vitamin in your
supported by an integrated
formulation as well as the least
quality system.’
water soluble vitamin and all
Vital was first GMP certified in
the organic minerals. In combination products, all herbal ingredients need to be stability tested as well as the least stable and least water soluble vitamin and all organic minerals.’ The company’s stability
DID YOU KNOW?
1986 by the then Medicines Control Council (MCC). It has maintained its
Vital is South Africa’s number one branded vitamin. Many of our country’s well known health related brands and products are also made by Vital.
programmes are harmonised with the ICH quality guidelines,
MCC license and GMP certification ever since. The manufacturing facility is also Halal approved and BRC certified for food safety standards. These
and its other certifications are renewed annually and Vital is
which require validated and qualified
regularly audited by its third
chambers at 25° Celsius and 60
party customers.
percent relative humidity, 30° Celsius
Capsule counter with Omega3 soft gelatine capsules
The GMP certification extends to
and 65 percent relative humidity for
Vital’s laboratory, which is also aiming
intermediate conditions and 40° Celsius
for ISO 17025 laboratory certification
and 75 percent relative humidity for
in 2019. Quality control manager, Dr
accelerated conditions. ICH guidelines
Gareth Bayley says Vital’s laboratory is
are also employed for shelf life
well equipped for multiple analytical
determination.
techniques. All outsourced testing
Vital foods' factory where mini rice cake poppers are produced
‘We are planning to purchase a
(microbiological) is done by a third
Zone IV B stability chamber, with 30°
party laboratory that is accredited
guarantee that our products are within the
Celsius and 75 percent relative humidity
by the South African Health Products
legal parameters. If it is on the Vital label, it is
conditions, which is required when
Regulatory Authority and is up to date
in the product.'
exporting to many SADC countries and
with regulatory requirements.
the Middle East. This chamber should be
‘Our in house testing capabilities are
As a future focused company, Vital’s first growth pillar is to maintain and
validated, qualified and up and running
extensive from wet chemistry testing
grow its leadership position in the
early next year,’ Dr Heyns adds.
to more high tech chromatographic
manufacture and supply of health
separation methods as well as dissolution
supplements in South Africa through
testing – study time lapse release for
leading edge innovation and deploying
extended bioavailability,’ he explains.
the latest technology. The second pillar
Inclusive, compliant and certified
will see step change growth coming
Working in strategic alliance with its customers, Vital has developed a
Poised for growth
from its food business as Vital expands its
dynamic contract manufacturing
The contract manufacturing business unit
offerings in this sector.
business model.
of Vital has evolved significantly and now
‘We offer a full turnkey solution,’ says Stone. ‘We can manage a customer’s
‘Our third pillar will leverage our
forms one of the three pillars of growth for
brand expertise to expand Vital’s
the company.
contract manufacturing business. There is immense opportunity for Vital
entire value chain and our solutions
‘This area of the business, like the Vital
span multiple categories, including
and Wassen brands, is deeply entrenched
to grow in this area, as we provide
in ethics and years of expertise,’ Stone
turnkey solutions in a GMP compliant
comments. ‘Historically the CAMs industry
facility with extensive regulatory
was not well regulated. We continuously
support,’ Stone concludes. •
vitamins and mineral supplements, CAMs, foods, snacks and beverages. Our services include product development and testing, analytical method development and
test competitor products and it is surprising how often the ingredient level on the label
Vital Health Foods – www.vital.co.za
is not what is in the product. At Vital, we
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
17
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
Discover what’s possible with SDK Agencies
This business has stood the test of time since 1988. Over the past 18 months, SDK Agencies has undergone major changes since new shareholders acquired 100 percent of the business. Abby Vorster caught up with the new CEO, Zanele Mgidi-Mpande, to find out more about these exciting developments. The SDK Agencies’ team
with local and international
ISO 22716:2007 accredited, ensuring
trends. ‘We use the latest raw
consistency in product quality and
materials in new product
performance. Mgidi-Mpande and her
development and stay
team are equipped to advise clients
ahead of the trends in skin,
on all their requirements, from market
hair and personal care, as
trends, packaging and banned
well as colour cosmetics,’
formulation ingredients to distribution
comments Mgidi-Mpande.
networks and the right price point for a
‘We don’t sell standard
brand or product.
formulations,’ she explains,
W
hile the company is best
‘because no one is a
A comprehensive offering
“standard client”.
SDK Agencies offers a turnkey
known for its expertise
with each client to
in manufacturing
understand their unique
colour cosmetics, the
needs and target
management change has brought about
market.' Having evolved
a fresh focus centred on client service,
from an agency into a
innovation in all product categories, a
fully fledged contract
deep understanding of both the Ethnic
manufacturer, SDK
and Caucasian markets and a unique
Agencies’ expertise
product offering.
is extensive.
SDK Agencies has become more
contract manufacturing service,
Instead, we work closely
DID YOU KNOW?
from product concept development to manufacturing, filling,
SDK Agencies follows a unique packaging and distribution. batch processing system. It also provides bulk Running flow protecting batches manufacturing and filling is highly economical and client focused. solutions, as well as fine
Within its 2 800m2 manufacturing
fragrance filling. The company represents a leading fragrance company, based in Grasse, France,
relevant than ever. The company
facility in Midrand, Gauteng, its R&D
and has been importing fragrance
has updated its laboratory and
and production teams adhere to
compounds for the last 20 years. With
manufacturing technology, improved
international manufacturing and
its fragrance presses, fillers, crimpers
internal processes and keeps up to date
quality standards. The company is
and fragrance carton cellophane
Proud MICRO-BIOLOGICAL consulting and testing service to SDK. M.C.C. (Medical control council) authorised facility.
Contact details:
Physical Address: 50 Hennie Alberts Street, Brackenhurst, Alberton Tel: 011-867-2059 Email: labserve@mweb.co.za www.labserve.co.za
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| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING wrappers, SDK Agencies can create any fine fragrance or EDT for a client. Every step of the process, be it manufacturing or product development, is based on
A FRESH FACE BRINGS NEW DIRECTION
pillars of quality. Within its in-house state of the art laboratory, there are full time
July 2017
colour matchers on the team to colour
New shareholders takeover SDK,
match all colour batches while creams
resulting in new directors and a
and lotions are tested for all the normal parameters. The company’s stability programmes follow standard industry protocols of four degrees Celsius, room temperature and 40° Celsius conditions, tested over a period of 12 weeks. SDK Agencies uses third party laboratories for micro, efficacy and SPF testing as well as claim substantiation, like moisturisation, antiageing and sun care claims. ‘Our clients range from large retailers with private label brands to smaller independent franchises and entrepreneurs, each with their own
new association established with Triton Pharmacare allowing the business to offer cosmeceutical product manufacturing.
February 2018 SDK Agencies rebrands, enhances its quality processes, simplifies its production
December 2017 The company purchases new machinery to increase its service offering and capabilities, including lipstick filling equipment and a triple roll powder press. New staff members with vast cosmetics industry experience are recruited to the SDK team.
processes and establishes a customer retention plan.
March 2018 SDK upgrades to a newer, more advanced inventory and accounts management system.
April 2018 onwards The company expands its customer pool and market offering within South Africa and beyond, targeting specific regions in Africa.
individual needs,’ says Mgidi-Mpande.
A trend setter Innovation is the primary business driver at SDK Agencies. ‘Our R&D team was the first in South Africa to develop a foundation stick formulated with baobab oil. It has also produced mascara formulations with baobab oil
and collagen and is working on a lip
includes pencils with a roller wheel
moisturiser that rebuilds moisture content
applicator, ergonomic pencils that
in the lip,’ she explains. ' Our strategic
offer an improved grip for better control
Innovation in the pencils category is one of our greatest achievements
during application and a brow pencil formulated with fibres to fill in eyebrows. Different finishes can be achieved with pencils and our latest offering in this category is to formulate makeup pencils with Agave extract, to boost skin’s elasticity.’ The R&D team is also working on novel claims for primers, such as ‘blurring’
partnership with Schwan Stabilo – a
and ‘anti-redness’ and has developed a
leading global pencil manufacturer –
banana powder in two different shades.
allows SDK to innovate in the pencils
Deemed by the USA’s A-list celebs as
category. Our Schwan pencil range
‘the dark horse of makeup’, this finely milled, translucent setting powder has a
SDK Agencies’ new cosmetics powder compress machine
hint of yellow and is used to highlight the undereye area and the T-zone.
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
19
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
A PERFECT PARTNER FOR PACKAGING
your facility but if your formulations are outdated, the goal to innovate may be inaccessible,’ Mgidi-Mpande explains. ‘To ensure SDK always reaches its innovation target, we have updated our colour formulations to include added skin care
WITH 20 YEARS’ EXPERIENCE in contract
benefits. Our skin care formulations are high
manufacturing, SDK Agencies observed
tech and based on effective ingredients
the inefficiencies that exist between the
and raw materials.’
manufacturing element and procuring
In addition to the class leading ingredients
applicable cosmetics packaging.
and cosmetics technologies that stem Customer liaison team reviewing products
To bridge the divide, the company introduced Cosmetic Line, which specialises in sourcing and supplying packaging for colour cosmetics,
Ethical and sustainable
makeup, skin care, fine fragrance and toiletries.
The strong focus on innovation at SDK Agencies is
This effectively allows SDK Agencies to offer a
driven by the products it produces. ‘You may have high tech equipment in
one-stop shop to clients.
from Europe and the USA, the company is equipped to source a large range of natural oils and indigenous plant extracts from the African market. With the consumer trends shifting more and more to natural and sustainable
Cosmetic Line’s showroom offers a
cosmetics and skin care products, SDK
comprehensive packaging offering due
Agencies ensures all the natural oils and
to its extensive database of suppliers
plant extracts it sources are not only
accumulated over many years.
responsibly harvested but also proven
The company represents a host of
effective and safe for use. The latter is
European and Asian principals,
essential to avoid product recalls and ensure
which specialise in glass and plastic
ethical brands remain at the forefront of the
packaging for all categories of the
South African cosmetics industry. Mgidi-
cosmetics industry.
Mpande is extremely passionate about ethical manufacturing and the South African
OUR SERVICES • Formulation • Registration • Blending Are you looking for a quality manufacturing partner for your CAMs, health products and functional foods? At Trinton Pharmacare – compliance, quality and safety have been our priority for almost two decades. Our cGMP manufacturing facility is one of the largest in South Africa and is fully equipped to meet your needs. Our production facility is designed by the world leaders in probiotics for probiotic manufacture. Our customer centric culture puts our staff in a position to understand the unique requirements of every customer. We also have the following accreditations: • cGMP • FSSC 22000 • ISO 22000. • FDA approved.
• Granulation (wet and dry) • Tablet manufacturing and encapsulation • Liquids filling • Ointments filling • Packing (bottle, blister and sachets) • Laboratory and stability testing OUR PROMISE • Quality assurance • Raw materials testing • In process control • Finished product analysis
We can manage a diverse number of dosage delivery formats, which are synergistically matched to our innovative capabilities. Triton is well known – not only for delivering innovation but also within the industry for our quick turnaround times. Many of our customers remain in awe of how we bring their product aspirations to life. Triton is currently registered as a pharmaceutical complementary facility, operating within full cGMP guidelines, and has ISO and FSSC 2200 accreditations, which are crucial for manufacturing functional foods. Contact us today for your new product development and manufacturing and packing needs.
Tel: +27 11 314 2196 | Fax: +27 86 664 2196 | Email: info@tritonpharma.co.za
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| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
CONTRACT MANUFACTURING
Lab team testing fragrances
packaging like airless packaging, which is only produced overseas, so we use international suppliers to source items not available locally.’ Mgidi-Mpande feels the South African and sub-Saharan African markets are underserviced in terms of skin and hair care products suited to the specific needs of local consumers. She believes long term, sustainable partnerships between industry SDK Agencies' pencil offering – African woman theme
cosmetics industry. She is driven to ensure her clients’ brands thrive, both locally and internationally. ‘We support the local industry as much as possible, sourcing what we can from South African suppliers. There are some challenges with specific
players are crucial to ensuring a flourishing cosmetics industry. ‘The local supply chain, especially contract manufacturing, needs to be maximised to make good quality skin and hair care products available to consumers at an affordable price,’ she concludes. •
WHAT’S ON OFFER AT SDK? • colour cosmetics • skin and personal care products • African oils and natural extracts • imported bulk cosmetics products • packaging for cosmetics from its sister company, Cosmetic Line • fragrance oils and filling services • distributor and finishing partner of Schwan Stabilo Cosmetics • white label and brand distribution • parallel importing • gifting, novelties and accessories for cosmetics.
SDK Agencies – www.sdkcosmetics.co.za
Proud Supplier to SDK Chemsystems a div of AECI
ChemSystems (Pty) Ltd 200 Bergrivier Drive Chloorkop - South Afrca Tel: (011) 922 1600 www.chemsystems.co.za
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
21
COMPANY FOCUS
Six decades of
engineering excellence Anderson Engineering, a leader in the manufacture of customised stainless steel processing equipment, is celebrating its 60th anniversary. This major milestone highlights the company’s innovation, quality, outstanding workmanship and professionalism in the market.
O
ver the past 60 years, Hans Coertse, owner and MD of Anderson Engineering, says the business has developed
a solid reputation based on world class engineering solutions. Anderson Engineering has had the privilege of working with some of South Africa’s most high profile businesses and on world class projects. It was founded in 1958 to manufacture stainless processing equipment for the dairy industry with its first client being Clover in Durban. The company went
Although this is a major milestone of six decades in business, the face of Anderson Engineering remains young engineering solutions for personal care
on to develop unique and innovative
finding a solution to the most complex process manufacturing challenges.
Culture of innovation Coertse has been at the helm of the company for the last 22 years and has been an integral part of the innovative culture and world class engineering focus. His deep passion for finding better solutions to clients’ manufacturing challenges constantly stretches the team. The company has always aspired to provide the best, customised solution on time and within budget, with minimal disruption to production. Key to the
and pharmaceutical processing. Over
company’s success is its ability to build
the last 30 years, its footprint has spread
long-term relationships with clients.
into Africa alongside the geographical
Anderson Engineering has delivered
growth of its long-standing clients.
manufacturing solutions to many of South
Anderson Engineering is known for its firsts
Africa’s largest chemical, cosmetics,
in process technology. These are a result
pharmaceutical, dairy and food and
of the company’s passion and culture
beverage manufacturers, many of whom
for seeking new and better solutions.
have worked with the company for several
Its turnkey solutions are of the highest
decades. The business ascribes to the
precision and quality standards, making
philosophy of ‘the way in which you
it the go-to engineering business for
treat your clients makes the difference’.
THE
Buyer’sguide
Anderson Engineering employs over 60 full
The three new fractionation vessels and supporting ancillary equipment, which Anderson Engineering installed at National Bioproducts Institute (NBI)
time staff, including qualified engineers,
draughtsman and technicians, with 2017/2018 years of practical experience. It also has its own workshop personnel, consisting
THE THE
Buyer’sguide Buye B ye y er’ r’s ’sg sguidee 2018/20199
The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry
Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za 22
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
COMPANY FOCUS
NBI FRACTIONATION EXPANSION PROJECT IN MARCH 2016, Anderson Engineering was approached by the NBI to quote on the expansion of its existing fractionation plant. The request was subsequent to Anderson Engineering’s extensive turnkey installation of a fractionation plant in 2012. The new project involved the addition of three fractionation vessels and supporting ancillary equipment to the plant while balancing existing production. It commenced in January 2017 and was particularly challenging for a number of reasons. The three new vessels had to be integrated into an existing production facility
of machinists, boilermakers, coded
milestone of six decades in business, the
welders, fitters and electricians, who are
face of Anderson Engineering remains
responsible for the fabrication of the
young. Coertse explains: ‘We have
equipment. The company is proud to
consciously tried to employ talented
have continued an active apprenticeship
young professionals into the business, as
scheme for the last 14 years and has
well as train and nurture young people
successfully trained and qualified over
who show promise.’
15 apprentices.
The company is ready for the
The future looks bright The core values of Anderson Engineering
opportunities that lie ahead and committed to providing outstanding client service and design excellence. •
are respect, flexibility, positive attitude, honesty and commitment. This year, more so than ever, the company is celebrating these values together with its many accomplishments, legacy and momentum in the market. Although this is a major
Anderson Engineering – www.andersoneng.co.za
with total flexibility, whereby each batch follows multi-vessel sequencing. This had to be done without disrupting the ongoing manufacturing process and NBI’s stringent pharmaceutical protocols had to be observed. NBI has upgraded and improved its internal documentation and compliance requirements since Anderson Engineering first worked with the institute. Anderson Engineering was required to comply with these new standards and successfully completed the project at the end of April 2018. Anderson Engineering’s dedicated team of employees
Food & Chemical Equipment Pty Ltd
Experts in turnkey solutions for the processing industry Our expertise: SASSDA Product Innovation Winner for the Anderson Contramix & Andpure Magnetic Mixer
• Full Turnkey solutions • Customised Stainless Steel processing equipment • Range of specialised mixing solutions for a wide variety of applications • Depth of experience in the Food, Beverage, Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic industries
TEL: +27 (0)33 387 1544 |
FAX: +27 (0)33 387 3923
|
WEB: www.andersoneng.co.za
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
23
ETHNIC CARE
Break the mould
with unexpected textures Recognising the demand for skin care products and colour cosmetics with great textures, Cithrol PGTL – Croda’s new w/o emulsifier – helps formulators include unique sensory benefits in hair and skin care products.
C
ithrol PGTL offers outstanding efficiency and versatility. This high-performance system is a great alternative to
traditional PEG-based systems. It allows formulators to unleash their creativity by including unexpected sensory benefits in formulations. It also contributes to reduced environmental impact as it can be formulated using a cold process. Water in oil (w/o) formulations have
Even though it's loaded with oils, it won't weigh down the hair
the versatility of Cithrol PGTL, Croda developed a rich oil moisturiser. This rich moisturiser has an amazingly light feel. Even though it’s loaded with oils, it won’t weigh down the hair. This stable formulation is enriched with various emollients and natural oils that impart softness and sheen to the hair. Crodamol IPM and Seatons Coconut
A versatile system
many advantages, such as greater
It’s a common misconception that w/o
Oil impart beautiful shine. Seatons Shea
wear resistance, a richer skin feel and
emulsions are always thick, heavy and
Nut Butter will provide nourishment and
the improved deposition of actives. Yet
sticky. With Cithrol PGTL, the formulator
conditioning to dry and brittle hair. See
formulating these emulsions can have
can get creative and experiment with
Table 1 for the formulation guide.
certain drawbacks.
a large variety of formulation types and
For example, there may be difficulty in achieving stable, thick, fluid-like and low
sensorial textures. This high performance system is ideal
Mild and sustainable Cithrol PGTL takes into account several
viscosity formulations with a light skin feel.
for creating cost-effective high internal
burning issues, including sustainability, skin
However, with Cithrol PGTL formulators
phase (HIP) emulsions that impart a light,
sensitivity and environmental impact.
can overcome these challenges - and
non-oily skin feel.
It is 100 percent bio-based; manufactured
thanks to its flowable format, it's easy to
Additional applications include more
without ethoxylates, propoxylates or PEG
use. Cithrol PGTL is effective at low usage
fluid, sprayable formulations; traditional
and cold processable (though this is
levels and doesn’t require the addition of
thick, rich creams and colour cosmetics,
formulation dependant).
a co-emulsifier.
such as foundations. To demonstrate
Phase
Ingredient/INCI Name Water Deionised (Aqua)
A
B
C
% w/w 65.40
water. In a panel study, Croda assessed the mildness of Cithrol PGTL at a three
Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate
0.80
percent concentration versus other
Pricerine 9091 (Glycerin)
2.00
w/o emulsifiers. When comparing the
Crodamol IPM (Isopropyl Myristate)
2.00
mildness of Cithrol PGTL to other w/o
Seatons Shea Nut Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter)
3.00
emulsifiers in a simple emulsion, there
Syncrowax BB4 (Synthetic Beeswax)
3.00
was no significant difference to the
Crodacol CS50 (Cetearyl Alcohol)
2.00
control. Cithrol PGTL had comparable
Seatons Coconut Oil (Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil)
5.00
mildness and showed significantly less
Cithrol PGTL (Tri(polyglyceryl-3/lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate)
3.00
skin erythema and protein content (skin
Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum)
8.00
flaking) to that of the water control. •
Petroleum Jelly (Petrolatum)
5.00
Euxyl PE 9010 (Ethylhexylglycerin (And) Phenoxyethanol)
0.80
Table 1: Rich oil moisturiser for African hair (ZA-0096)
24
The mildness of the system has also been proven to be comparable to
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Croda – www.crodapersonalcare.com
ETHNIC CARE
The face of beauty is changing Innovative ingredients are the route to effective product customisation. Karen Maier, Merck’s head of performance materials in South Africa, shares ideas to help formulators better meet the hair and skin care needs of a diverse market.
T
here has been a big move
can safely and gently even out
toward customisation in the
their skin tone. With its excellent skin
scalp, RonaCare Salicylic Acid and
cosmetics industry, with brands
lightening properties, it has been
RonaCare Allantoin are the go-to
seeing people as individuals with
proven to safely bring about
individual needs. While new products are
a significant reduction in
being formulated to cater to this trend, it’s
pigmentation. Due to
important to recognise the differences in
its strong anti-oxidant
the skin of diverse Ethnic groups.
properties, Emblica
People with a specific skin tone have common concerns that formulators should address when developing new products.
With a modern skin brightening active like Emblica, women can safely and gently even out their skin tone
To address dandruff and a flaking
ingredients. They gently
DID YOU KNOW?
exfoliate and soften the scalp while dispersing existing flakes offering relief and enhanced
In a skin lightening comparison beauty with test between Emblica, MAP and re-occurrence no unsightly Kojic acid, Emblica was proven of UV induced skin shedding. efficient for different Ethnic skins. At dark spots. one percent, it produced similar or Hydration is To care superior skin lightening effects than achieved with two percent another important and protect Kojic acid or three topic in Ethnic skin While there are many percent MAP. care. The multi-talented singularities when it also prevents the
RonaCare Ectoin provides just the right amount of long lasting hydration and protection.
comes to different skin and hair types, we are more similar than we are different and the basics should never be overlooked.
Nourish and strengthen
Whatever the skin tone; need for
While there is a strong trend to
UV protection, moisture retention and
embrace natural hair styles, many
deep cleansing, caring for stressed
African women still turn to braiding,
and sensitive skin in our modern,
relaxing and wearing of wigs and
mostly polluted environment should
While lighter skins are prone to visible
weaves to enhance their natural
remain the main priority of the
signs of ageing – such as wrinkles, fine
beauty. These practices have a
cosmetics industry..•
lines and sagging skin – darker or Ethnic
significant impact on scalp health. This
skin types have their own set of unique
can cause an itchy, dry scalp and skin
challenges. Hyper pigmentation, greater
flaking, either due to dandruff or the
sensitivity to UVA and ambient light, a
mere shedding of very dry skin. Hair
compromised skin barrier that can lead
itself can end up dry, brittle and dull –
to transepidermal water loss and atopic
fortunately, there is a whole arsenal of
dermatitis are some of the issues.
ingredients to address these concerns.
It’s important to consider these issues
Emblica is not only good for skin but
when selecting ingredients for Ethnic skin
also nourishes and strengthens hair
care formulations.
from root to tip. When combined with RonaCare Nicotinamide, the complex
Even tone, hydrated skin
improves hair quality and assists in
One approach is to use a multi-functional
damage recovery.
active ingredient like Emblica. This 100
RonaCare Bisabolol offers a
percent natural extract with its cascading
particularly effective and completely
anti-oxidant properties will not only
natural way to soothe an irritated
protect against the ravages of pollution
scalp. Produced using a natural
and UV exposure but also address the
Bisabolol, this product is twice as
issue of hyperpigmentation.
effective as its synthetic equivalents
Gone are the days when women
on the market, guaranteeing twice
with darker skin felt pressured to
the impact when it comes to reducing
bleach their skin a lighter shade using
redness, soothing inflammation and
harsh chemicals. With a modern skin
irritation and protecting the scalp
brightening active like Emblica, women
against external aggressors.
26
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Merck – www.merck4cosmetics.com
ETHNIC CARE
New technology to control and care for curls SymHair Shape provides a solution to manage and care for curly and wavy hair. The system includes a combination of wheat bran extract, camellia oil and special emollients. By Carolina Lourenco, Adelino Nakano, Marcia Paula, Gabriele Vielhaber and Gerhard Schmaus from Symrise’s Hair Care Center in Brazil.
I
n combing tests, we observed that
confirming the efficacy of SymHair Shape on
SymHair Shape contributes significantly
curly hair. Film formation, hair malleability,
to easing the combing process, in both
smoothness, shine and other important benefits
wet and dry conditions. Regarding
were evaluated against a placebo treatment.
mechanical properties, it increases hair’s
SymHair Shape demonstrated its superiority,
resistance and reinforces hair’s structure as
reaching positive scores for all endpoints.
the extension before breaking increased and the number of broken fibres was
Textured hair problems
significantly reduced after multiple combing
Curly hair is known for its challenges. It is
cycles. SymHair Shape also protects hair
characterised by its rough texture, the
from humidity, controlling the increase
high hair roots that result in increased
of volume as the hair dries.
volume, dry tips and weakness,
The expert evaluation results are
because its naturally thinner.
consistent with the instrumental data,
These make it more difficult to
FUTURISTIC ELEGANCE
RONASTAR® BLACK ALLURE THE NEW LUMINOUS MATTE Karen - Black Allure.indd 1
22.08.2018 10:32:32
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
27
ETHNIC CARE
0,10 0,08 0,05 0,03 0,00
-22% 0,0386
0,0498
SymHair Shape (Sh 0.1% / Cond 0.5%)
Placebo
Energy to comb (Joules)
Energy to comb (Joules)
Figure 1: Combability results in wet (A) and dry (B) conditions. Mean ± sd. *p<0.05
0,10 0,08 0,05
-23%
0,03 0,00
0,0390
0,0501
SymHair Shape (Sh 0.1% / Cond 0.5%)
Placebo
manage. Consumers with curly hair often straighten it to make
It’s all in the curl
it easier to manage, but this has several negative effects on the
The combability test showed the tresses treated with SymHair
hair fibres and scalp. The effects include irritation, increased
Shape required less energy for combing than the tresses
fragility and a loss of naturalness. To avoid these negative
treated with placebo formulations, in both wet and dry
effects, consumers are choosing to wear their hair natural by
conditions (see Figure 1).
maintaining and caring for their curls.
The resistance of the hair fibres was evaluated using two
SymHair Shape was created to care for curly hair, decreasing
methods. In the tensile test, the strength of the fibres treated with
its volume and frizz, improving hair’s health and making it easier
SymHair Shape was 57.18 percent more than those treated with
to manage.
placebo formulations (50.95 percent).
The shape of the curls was better maintained in the tresses treated with SymHair Shape This shows a statistically significant increase in resistance at 12 percent. The results show the shape of the curls was better maintained in the tresses treated with SymHair Shape, compared to the curl shape retention of the tresses treated with the placebo. The volume increase was moderate when compared to the placebo, showing a 16 percent reduction. Scanning electron microscope images of the tresses treated with SymHair Shape show increasinly aligned cuticles and less cracks in the hair surface. Less lifting of borders is also evident, contributing to a better macroscopic aspect in the hair and its smoother texture. SymHair Shape has been proven an efficient solution for various hair care applications. It contributes significantly to ease of combing as it helps to reinforce the hair structure, reducing the damage at surface level and helping to keep hair in good shape. The expert evaluation is consistent with the instrumental data, confirming the efficacy of SymHair Shape on curly and wavy hair. •
Symrise – www.symrise.com
28
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
ETHNIC CARE
Ama-prot keeps curls from spiralling out of control
If you’re looking to develop a hair care product to better manage textured hair with intensive strengthening and repairing benefits, Ama-prot from Provital has been proven to keep hair healthy and more manageable.
O
ne of the most challenging
improve the combability and manageability
found in the seeds.
aspects of textured or Ethnic
of damaged hair. According to Provital, low
The protein fraction of the Amaranth is
hair is manageability. According
molecular weight proteins and peptides have
rich in essential amino acids and has a
to www.dryscalpgone.com,
the ability to penetrate the cortex. This makes
high amount of sulphur amino acids such
combing textured hair can lead to a loss
them ideal to repair, strengthen and protect
as cysteine and methionine, particularly
of important proteins which is why many
hair fibres from within.
suited to hair care applications. The lysine
natural hair care blogs advise consumers to
Several studies show peptides from
and arginine positively charged basic
detangle their hair using their fingers rather
protein hydrolysates can adhere to hair or
amino acids and high amounts of starch
than brushing or combing. This makes it less
even penetrate it. The size of the peptide,
polysaccharides provide hair with
likely to pull or break the strands.
its charge and the pH of the medium are
extra nutrients.
of fundamental importance. Because
Ama-prot reduced hair loss by 51 percent in comparison to the placebo
For the best results with Ama-prot, Pro-vital
Amaranth proteins have more positively
uses its exclusive 3D matrix technology
charged amino acids than other proteins,
for the sustained release of the peptides
they are able to bond to the hair more
and polysaccharides onto the hair. The 3D
efficiently (negatively charged under
structure is injected with Ama-prot, which
normal conditions and even more so when
forms a protective film on the hair fibre,
damaged). So, they provide better nutrition
ensures the sustained release and improves
than other proteins (Longo 2006; Silva 2007).
the distribution of the active ingredients, as well as prolongs their action time.
Grains with great benefits The seeds of the Amaranth have a great
Care under the covers
nutritional value with their protein content
Another interesting aspect of Ama-prot is its
Another way to improve manageability is
ranging from 13 to 18 percent. They are also
ability to overcome the hair care challenges
with Ama-prot, an aqueous extract of the
made up of eight percent unsaturated fatty
associated with regularly covering the
seeds of the Amaranthus caudatus plant,
acids, 29 percent oleic acid and 44 percent
hair. Many people cover their heads for
developed by Provital Group (Provital). It
linoleic acid, together with 64 percent starch.
different reasons, be it cultural, a fashion
is obtained using enzymatic hydrolysis, a
The high levels of leucine in the seeds acts as
statement, religious or, in Africa, to aspire to
technology exclusive to Provital. Distributed
an essential amino acid for protein synthesis.
the European standard of beauty by wearing
in South Africa by Savannah Fine Chemicals,
Phosphorus, calcium, iron, potassium, zinc,
wigs and weaves.
Ama-prot contains a high concentration of
vitamin E, vitamin B complex and between
peptides and polysaccharides, which help
eight and 12 percent of squalene can be
30
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Constantly covering the hair with a hijab, hat, wig or weave can cause friction with
ETHNIC CARE
AMARANTH HAIR CARE COLLECTION AMA-PROT FORMS part of Provital’s Amaranth collection of active ingredients for hair care. Ama-oil is the oily extract of Amaranth seeds which offers anti-humidity and anti-frizz benefits. Ama-leaf is an extract of the aerial part of the plant which is rich in polyphenols and restores hair’s natural movement.
in Tunisia – countries where wearing a hijab is commonplace. In Indonesia, the study sought to evaluate hair volume and evolution of the cuticles measured by scanning electronic microscopy. The results showed Ama-prot visibly increased the hair volume of hijab wearers while sealing and repairing the cuticles, strengthening the hair and helping it to recover its shine and fluidity.
the hair fibres, weakening and damaging the cuticles (Lee et al. 2011). Friction between the fabric and the skin also generates electrostatic charges, believed to be responsible for inhibiting hair growth (Shafik 1993). There is evidence that some of the materials used to manufacture hats, caps and other types of headgear can cause a thinning of the epidermis, affecting the hair follicle.
In Tunisia, a customer satisfaction survey was carried out and hair breakage, hair loss and elasticity were evaluated. The results showed Ama-prot reduced hair loss by 51 percent in comparison to the placebo and breakage by 11 percent in comparison to the placebo. •
Because users require specific hair products to counteract these side effects, Provital sought to assess the volumising, repairing, moisturising and refreshing benefits of Ama-prot. Two double blind in vivo studies were carried out, one in Indonesia and the other
Provital Group – www.provitalgroup.com/en Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
31
ETHNIC CARE
Ingredients to care
for natural hair
Suppliers like Botanichem are heeding the call for Ethnic hair care products that help consumers embrace their natural hair. There is a strong focus on botanical actives within this trend, with natural hair care becoming more of a ritual that involves cleansing and caring for fragile, curly hair.
T
he trend toward keeping hair natural
member of Botanichem. ‘Curly hair is more
rather than chemically straightening,
fragile than straight hair. Because it is tightly
braiding it or wearing extensions
coiled, sebum cannot travel down the hair
has pushed ingredient suppliers to
strand and dryness becomes an issue. Curly
A MESH OF MOISTURISING FACTORS
develop actives that enhance and protect
hair is also more susceptible to breakage and
natural hair. These actives also need to care
scalp damage.’ Tangling is another serious
for the scalp and encourage healthy hair
concern of Ethnic hair because the strands
growth. The Ethnic hair care market remains a
wrap around each other. Trying to de-tangle
DRY SCALP, just like dry skin, can be itchy and
lucrative market not only in South Africa but in
the hair causes further damage while pulling
uncomfortable. It is caused by dehydration, which
Africa. According to Euromonitor International
and tugging may also stress hair follicles,
results in the scalp becoming irritated.
the value of the wet hair products sold in
resulting in traction hair loss.
BASF Care Creation’s innovative ingredient PatcH2O
South Africa, Nigeria and Cameroon currently
provides a comprehensive solution to address
exceeds R12 billion with South Africa’s market
Shift to botanicals
for wet and dry hair care believed to be worth
Cobiosa’s Ethomega is an exotic and
was originally developed to address skin dryness
an estimated R4.5 billion.
exclusive oil mix. It combines the soothing,
and ensure its sustained hydration. Test results show
calming and antioxidant properties of
PatcH2O is also ideal for scalp care applications, to
Chia seed oil with the powerful nourishing
hydrate, soothe and calm a dry and uncomfortable
properties of Sacha Inchi oil.
scalp. In a double-blind randomised 21-day study,
Ethomega improved hair breakage resistance up to 27.5 percent
dehydration in the scalp and hair. The technology
It is also characterised by high
PatcH2O was tested on a group 65 women of varying
concentrations of Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFAs), a -linolenic acid (Ω 3), linoleic
ethnicities to evaluate its hydra-protect effect on the scalp and hair. Results showed 77 percent of the
acid (Ω 6) and oleic acid (Ω 9). High doses
group experienced a reduction in scalp itchiness
of Tocopherols (delta and specially gamma,
after the trial period, while 69 percent felt their scalp
not found in other botanical oils) are also
was more relaxed after just three days of application.
present in the oil mix. Ethomega can be
A significant improvement in the shine, strength and
used to reduce split hairs and hair breakage,
vitality of the hair was also noted, with 80 percent
‘It is common knowledge that breakage and
restore the scalp and hair barrier, increase
of the group stating their hair looked shinier and 71
general brittleness are major problems of
brightness, improve scalp comfort and
percent stating their hair felt stronger and more vibrant.
Ethnic hair,’ explains Robyn Brown, managing
restore moisture. The oil also prevents sun
Actively making a change Supplier of Actives and Technical Services to the Cosmetic Industry Our Services include: Supplier for:
• Stability Testing • Formulation • Quality assurance • Dossier presentation for most markets in the world • Full cosmetic regulatory services
CONTACT Robyn Brown Tel +27 (0)11 425 2206 | Fax +27 (0)86 520 4585 | Cell +27 (0)814476236 / +27 (0)815456857 info@botanichem.co.za | www.botanichem.co.za Botanichem 1/4.indd 1
32
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
2018/07/26 15:57
ETHNIC CARE Figure 1: Hair breakage resistance percentage change
Figure 2: Shine percentage change
damage and protects hair colour. During
These include:
stimulate new hair growth. It can also
testing, Ethomega improved hair breakage
• proteins from native marine
be used in products that strengthen hair
resistance up to 27.5 percent and improved
collagen for the hair’s external
and increase the diameter of thin hairs;
hair shine by up to 95 percent (see figures 1 and 2).
Pump up the volume To care for thin, devitalised and weak
protection • amino acids from hydrolysed marine
conditioners and hair products that
follicles in the scalp
increase volume. Botanichem is the sole
• polysaccharides and moisturising factors extracted from honey to improve
Complex, a blend of marine and
hydroretention and hydrocaptation
It effectively repairs and strengthens the hair structure, supplying hair with
dry, scaly or weak hair; protective hair
elastin to improve the vitality of hair
hair, Cobiosa has developed Hairdensyl botanical multifunctional extracts.
shampoos and lotions for devitalised,
capacity • marine glycogen, which assists with new hair growth.
several vital substances needed to
Hairdensyl Complex is ideal for use in
increase volume.
treatments to help to reduce hair loss and
distributor of products from Cobiosa and BASF Care Creations, in South Africa. •
BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za Cobiosa – www.cobiosa.com
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
33
ETHNIC CARE
Skin care’s glow ingredient is also great for hair OH
O HO
With a proven reputation as an effective exfoliant and skin moisturiser, glycolic acid is also ideal for hair care products. Its hair care benefits have been proven through a series of tests and experiments on African, Asian and Latino hair.
glycolic acid
G
lycolic acid is a popular active in anti-
positive effect on skin, hair care products formulated
ageing formulations and has strong
with glycolic acid will not only benefit the hair, but
consumer recognition. While the positive
also moisturise the scalp and reduce flaking, resulting
effects of glycolic acid in skin care
in an overall healthy look and feel.
products are well documented, similar research did not exist for hair care products. DuPont, the manufacturer of Glypure, a popular
enhanced softness, protection and conditioning
this ingredient could play in hair care products. The
are key attributes for hair care products. Based on
first study was conducted on healthy and bleached
these parameters, five classes of experiments were
to investigate the effects of glycolic acid on
acid in hair care applications. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) was
and chemically damaged hair samples
conducted on African, Asian and Latino hair by DuPont’s researchers. The other experiment – a tensile
Based on the results, it is clear glycolic acid serves several functions in hair care products. It is capable of penetrating the hair shaft, improving softness and enabling hair to better withstand heat.
by a third party testing lab contracted by DuPont. Healthy and chemically damaged (bleached or relaxed) hair samples were used for all the experiments. For the DSC test, the hair samples were treated with one of the main ingredients
in a conditioning formulation helps
found in a hair conditioning treatment based on
make hair less prone to breakage
DuPont Glypure.
manageability. Because glycolic acid has such a
The iconic Marula tree is indigenous to South Africa with a long history of traditional uses. Marula oil is extracted from the kernels inside the fruit and offers exceptional anti-inflammatory benefits along with excellent moisture retention properties. This makes it ideal for use as a treatment oil in facial serums, a makeup primer, or as a multipurpose emollient for both skin & hair care formulations. Marula oil is also very stable due to its high proportions of oleic acid (70-78%), as well as linoleic acid (4-7%). Botanica’s has ECOCERT organically certified and conventional grades of Marula oil available. We offer small minimum order quantities, attractive pricing and high quality products which is issued which a full GC analysis per batch. INCI Name: Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil To find out more about our range of oils and certified plant extracts please contact us:
E:info@botanica.africa
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
strength test – was conducted on all three hair types
The data also shows glycolic acid
and improves its lubricity, improving
34
conducted to evaluate the performance of glycolic
African, Asian and Latino hair. Both healthy were used.
|
Consumer research shows that manageability,
cosmetic-grade glycolic acid, investigated the role
Caucasian hair. DuPont then expanded the study
T:071 925 5870
Evaluations in focus
|
W:www.botanica.africa
The ingredients in this complex formulation were tested separately to determine which, if any, would cause an increase in denaturation temperature,
ETHNIC CARE resulting in a positive effect on hair. In the tensile
a statistically significant increase in the
strength experiment, researchers compared the
denaturation temperature of keratin when
effects of each of the main ingredients found in
hair is treated with DuPont Glypure.
a hair conditioning treatment based on DuPont
Glycolic acid provides hair with superior lubricity
Glypure on healthy and chemically damaged (bleached or relaxed) African, Asian and Latino hair samples.
Positive findings High pressure DSC was used to study the denaturation of keratin in hair. The test method is based on that referenced in Characterising Keratins Using High-Pressure Differential
Results from the tensile strength tests, using
Scanning Calorimetry (HPDSC) by Wortmann
a five percent DuPont Glypure solution,
and Deutz. A total of 12 hair tresses per hair
showed a statistically significant decrease
type were used – six healthy and six bleached
in hair’s elastic modulus or stiffness. This
samples. Each was treated for five minutes.
softening effect is consistent with the effect
For the African hair samples, there was an
hair. Glycolic acid also provides hair with superior lubricity, which results in less friction and tangling, making hair more manageable, easier to style, less prone to breakage and protected from damage during heat styling. DuPont Glypure is available in South Africa from Protea Chemicals. •
DuPont – www.dupont.com Protea Chemicals – www. proteachemicals.co.za
of moisture on hair.
increase of six degrees Celsius in denaturation temperature for the healthy sample and a nine
Good for all hair types
degrees Celsius increase for the bleached
Test data clearly shows African, Asian and
sample treated with DuPont Glypure. Both the
Latino hair can benefit from the multiple,
healthy and bleached African hair samples
positive effects DuPont Glypure delivers in
treated with the other four ingredients showed
hair care products.
an increase in denaturation temperature. However, the greatest increase was shown with DuPont Glypure. These findings reveal
These benefits include enhancing softness, improving manageability, preventing breakage and protecting
Protea Chemicals have a new range of naturally derived ingredients that are extensively used in ethnic care pharmaceutical and cosmetic products for the whole family.
Back- integrated to the wool industry, Lanolines Stella offers a wide range of high purity Lanolin products and derivatives specifically designed for the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries (skin care, personal care, baby care, body care, anti-ageing & anti wrinkles lotions, skin disorder solutions and for the most demanding end users. Protea is the official distributor in SA for LANOLINES STELLA. Oils and fats are among the most important cosmetic ingredients and are frequently used for a variety of external applications. They can be used directly as skin and hair care products but also as the basic ingredients for the manufacture of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. A wider range of Henry Lamotte Plant oils and butters are now stocked in SA. Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Almond, Aloe Vera, Argan, Black Cumin Seed, Evening Primrose, Grape Seed, Castor, Coconut and Soybean oils are just some of the more popular selections in formulating ethnic care products. Leanne Rossouw: Industry Sector Manager Mobile: + 27 (0)76 683 5615 Tel: +27 11 821 3310 Email: Leanne.Rossouw@proteachemicals.co.za General Enquiries: info@proteachemicals.co.za
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
35
ETHNIC CARE
Acquisition drives innovation across the value chain
In July, Sensient Technologies announced the acquisition of Vancouver-based Mazza Innovation, a global leader in botanical extraction technology.
T
he addition of Mazza Innovation
for our R&D efforts,’ says Mike Geraghty,
technology would address the growing
is a major step in the evolution
president of Sensient Colors. ‘Many
demand for clean and pure ingredients.
of Sensient Technologies’ ‘seed
of the botanical colour sources used
to shelf’ strategy to innovate
today require chemical solvents or high
cosmetics industry where the “naturality”
temperatures to be effective.
of an ingredient is evaluated by its
across the value chain for natural and organic ingredients. Mazza’s patented
This patented extraction technology
‘This is a major opportunity for the
origin, traceability, sustainability, global
solvent-free clean extraction technology
represents a major step change. It is
beneficiaries as well as manufacturing
expands current extraction capabilities to
cleaner, more efficient and delivers on the
process. We can truly make a difference in
deliver pure and clean cosmetics, colour,
need for natural colours for cosmetics,
the market offering powerful actives and
functional nutraceutical, skin care and
functional extracts, skin care ingredients
colorants from natural sources using the
flavour ingredients. The acquisition will
and clean label flavour extracts.’
most earth-friendly extraction process,’
leverage Sensient’s robust agronomy and
adds Gaelle Frere, global general manager
sustainable sourcing programmes for
Ahead of industry demand
plant materials as well as the company’s
Originally developed by Dr Giuseppe
strong extract refinement and application
(Joe) Mazza, a long-time researcher
expertise. ‘I am excited about the
of Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada,
immediate and longer term possibilities
Mazza recognised the unique extraction
36
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
of Sensient Cosmetic Technologies. •
Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – www.sensient-cosmetics.com
ETHNIC CARE
Your solution to healthy hair days
I
n the same way a breakfast smoothie
and a mask treatment containing 10
promoted at 100 percent as a booster for
gives the body a boost of essential
percent Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk were
consumers to mix with their existing beauty
nutrients, a natural hair smoothie will
observed. Both studies revealed that
products for skin and hair. •
moisturise and repair the hair and
systems containing Coconut-Avocado
scalp. Vantage Specialty Chemicals’
Hair Milk helped to improve the
Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk
appearance of the damaged
is a stable, water-thin, oil in water emulsion designed specifically for use in hair care. Utilising high quality oils with known benefits for hair, this ‘smoothie’ is made up of Lipovol C-76
DID YOU KNOW?
hair. Both systems also increased moisturisation,
Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk easily penetrates and nourishes hair. With nearly half of its fatty acid profile made up of Lauric Acid, coconut oil has a natural affinity for hair, while the fatty acid and vitamin rich avocado oil imparts a luxurious and creamy feel.
(coconut oil), Lipovol A (avocado oil) and Distinctive Coconut Water. The result is an
Vantage Specialty Chemicals – kim@lipo.co.za
improved the feel of the hair and noticeably reduced frizz.
Skin and hair beauty booster
Stable, versatile and easy to use, Coconut-Avocado Hair
easy to use ingredient that provides an
Milk is even suitable for sprayable
improvement in shine and the overall
and cold process formulations. The
appearance of hair while reducing frizz.
recommended use level is up to 20 percent in a variety of hair care
Restore lipid moisture balance
applications, including shampoos,
In two separate studies on damaged
conditioners, masks,
hair, the effects of a shampoo containing
treatments and styling
one percent Coconut-Avocado Hair Milk
products. It can also be
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
37
PHARMA FOCUS// SUPPLY CHAIN & DISTRIBUTION
Overcome supply chain challenges
to win the war on Aids
The 22nd International AIDS Conference took place in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, from 23 to 27 July. Imperial Logistics showcased the critical role logistics and supply chain management play in winning the war on Aids.
I
mperial Logistics’ healthcare strategy executive, Dr Iain Barton comments: ‘As Africa’s leading healthcare supply chain partner, we are proud to be involved
in this important event.’ The International Aids Conference is the largest in the world that focuses on a global health issue. It was first convened during the peak of the Aids epidemic in 1985 and provides a vital platform for role players to come together and strengthen policies and programmes that ensure an evidence-based response to the pandemic.
Up to 60 percent of medicines in Africa could be counterfeit
In remote areas in Africa, medicines are delivered by boat
ensuring last mile access to medicines and healthcare services for patients who do not have the means to travel for these services,’ Dr Barton explains. The Unjani Clinic concept was the brainchild of Imperial Logistics and
‘UNAIDS, the Joint United Nations Programme
is poised to play an impactful role in fighting
on HIV/Aids, stated it will be impossible to
HIV/Aids in South Africa. Just over five years
close the book on Aids without bringing HIV
since the launch of the project, this ground-
treatment to all who need it. Achieving this
breaking network of nurse-owned and
goal hinges on efficient healthcare supply
operated community clinics has achieved the
chains and logistics partners that can
milestone of treating 500 000 patients.
ensure product security as well as quality
SA’S HIV/AIDS STATISTICS • South Africa has a population of 56 million • 46 million people (82 percent) are dependent on public healthcare • 7.1 million patients are HIV positive • 4.2 million patients are receiving treatment for HIV
‘Up to now, the main contribution of Unjani
assured processes and controls and, thereby,
Clinics in the fight against HIV/Aids has
as well as pharma wholesale and
uncompromised treatments and tests,’
been providing screening and education.
distribution. Imperial Logistics is committed
Dr Barton says.
Yet the organisation hopes to extend this
to combating the public health threats
to the provision of free ARV treatment to
that stem from fake and substandard
Last mile access
state patients,’ he revealed. ‘There are now
medicines. It is estimated up to
Imperial Logistics’ commitment to supplying
50 Unjani Clinics located in five of the nine
60 percent of medicines in Africa could
sustainable, affordable and quality medicines
provinces. They have the potential to make a
be counterfeit.
to the people of Africa is reflected in the 43
powerful impact on the HIV/Aids crisis. To this
million patient packs delivered monthly by
end, the Unjani Clinics non-profit company
technology and serialisation to ensure
the supply chain and logistics leader. This
is lobbying with government to be able to
what we deliver is authentic medicine,’
includes more than six million ARVs.
distribute ARVs through the clinics to patients
states Dr Barton.
The organisation’s healthcare supply chain solutions and innovations include ‘Clinic in a
in underserved communities.’
‘Imperial Logistics uses authentication
Imperial Logistics has built the world’s only blockchain-enabled pharma
Box’ and the Unjani Clinics initiative. ‘Our pre-
End to end visibility
fabricated Clinic in a Box systems are a critical
The company is a leading force in African
visibility across pharma supply chains
part of the healthcare supply chain in Africa,
healthcare supply chain management,
and to fight the life-threatening issue of
38
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
‘control tower’, to offer unmatched
PHARMA FOCUS// SUPPLY CHAIN & DISTRIBUTION An Unjani Clinic, which provides primary healthcare services at an affordable price to underserved communities in South Africa
counterfeit medicines. These and other
bring patient-level transparency
stakeholders at the International AIDS
Imperial Logistics contributions to the
to ARV deliveries in sub-Saharan
Conference a powerful view of how
fight against HIV/Aids were highlighted
Africa. Imperial Logistics also hosted
we have responded to the challenge
at the International AIDS Conference.
a photographic exhibition at the
of delivering first world solutions
This year, the company’s involvement
renowned Amsterdam gallery, De Balie.
in developing nations,’ Dr Barton
included a panel discussion chaired
‘The exhibition captured the unique
by Dr Barton.
supply chain challenges on the
The panel discussion saw global
African continent. We were proud to
thought leaders examining how to
share this visual journey. It gave key
FINAL PRINT design.indd 1
concludes. •
Imperial Logistics – www.imperiallogistics.com
28/08/2018 14:59
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
39
HOME CARE
Cleaning gets creative
Household cleaning products with a strong brand heritage are trusted by consumers in terms of efficiency. Supported by their innovative suppliers, these products are enjoying success in the market.
A
ccording to Euromonitor
continue among branded and non-
African consumers and developing
International, though
branded players as both aim to capture
products that cater for specific items,
consumers face continued
a greater share of constrained consumer
be it black or white clothing, is natural
financial constraints, their
spending by offering more value-orientated
progression for Skip as it continues
aspirational tendencies are evident in
goods. However, as brand loyalty is not
to deliver on its ‘care promise’ in
the home care category. The industry is
easily won, consumers will continue to
the market.
seeing major expansion in private label
support branded products with proven
home care products with retailers taking
efficacy and convenience.
on a brand-orientated approach to their
Acdoco SA, Africa’s first shoppercentric brand-custodian distributor, has just launched the first carpet stain
private label offerings. They are creating
Recent innovations
remover with a brush applicator.
laundry detergents and cleaning products
In May, Skip pioneered a major advance in
Dr. Beckmann Carpet Stain Remover,
of similar or even arguably superior quality
laundry detergents with the launch of three
imported from the UK, is packaged in a
to their branded equivalents.
specialised products for three different
bottle with a brush attachment offering
types of clothing, including white, dark
a quick and effective solution to tackle
private label brand was discontinued.
and delicate garments. The formulations
stains with ease and convenience. Its
The decline in performance of Bingo
in the Skip Perfect Care range are crafted
oxi powered formulation and the unique
products was subsequent to the improved
to keep clothes looking newer for longer.
brush attachment penetrate carpet
performance of other private label products.
According to the Skip brand manager,
fibres, enabling the user to remove
It is expected aggressive competition will
fabric care is a key unmet need of South
tough stains quickly. •
Sadly, in 2017, Shoprite Checkers’ Bingo
40
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
PackagingREVIEW SOUTH AFRICAN
September 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 9
www.pharmacos.co.za
Flawless filling solutions for vials and stick packs
Why recyclable packaging is good for your brand and business
Highlights from Omron’s innovation conference
NEWS
Maximum care and precision DEVELOPMENTS IN PHARMA dosage formats from traditional tablets, capsules, powders and liquids to newer methods of intravenous and transdermal ingestion continue to drive equipment innovations in the packaging industry. Packaging is afterall an emerging science, engineering discipline and a successful contributor to almost all industries. Quality control extends beyond the ingredients and raw materials to packaging components and equipment to achieve a sterile, quality product in its final form. Advances in drugis one of the many reasons for the increased attention on filling technology over traditional aseptic methods. On page 44, we’ve featured a series of machines specifically designed to guarantee the highest levels of quality and filling precision and efficiency. Highlights from Omron's Innovation Conference are featured in this edition. Turn to page 43 now for more info on the company's take on i-Automation.
ARE SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS WORTH THE COST?
You can also catch up on recycling stats and developments in our sustainable packaging and practices feature on page 43.
GLOBAL COMPANIES ARE scrambling to Until next month!
develop sustainable packaging materials to reduce environmental impact. Yet it’s a
Assistant Editor
time-consuming and expensive process.
Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za
Companies need to build flexibility into their supply chains and regularly update
NOVUS HOLDINGS APPOINTS NEW CEO
consumers on their progress to remain in
THE SOUTH AFRICAN printing production and manufacturing
Packaging Materials’ reveals two-thirds
operator recently appointed Neil Birch as group CEO. Birch
of consumers worldwide think living an
was previously an independent non-executive director at the
ethical or sustainable lifestyle is important
group and chairman from April 2017 before being appointed
to creating a feeling of wellbeing. This
executive chairman from October 2017 to July 2018.
increased focus on environmental impact is
Birch holds a BSc (Hons) degree in mechanical/industrial engineering from the University of Witwatersrand. He first
the competition, says GlobalData. The data and analytics company’s report, ‘Innovation Scenarios in Sustainable
creating new opportunities for sustainable Neil Birch
packaging material producers. ‘Pressure
started working in the printing and packaging industry in
from governments and consumers is forcing
1986 and went on to become appointed group MD at Lithotech in 1989.
companies to better track the environmental
From 2006 to 2016, Birch assumed the role of CEO at Bidvest Paperplus.
impact of their packaging. However, concerns remain over cost, barrier properties
NEW POSITIONS CREATED AT RPC ASTRAPAK LAST MONTH, WHEN South Africa
appointment of two account executives
celebrated Women’s Month, RPC
who recently started at the company,’
Astrapak introduced two female
says Greg Till, sales and marketing
account executives to its team,
executive at RPC Astrapak.
Hlengiwe Thusini and Buhle Mbatha. The duo is committed to
Thusini and Mbatha will assist Till in strengthening the company’s position
understanding customers’ needs.
with key customers. Thusini is a familiar
They will focus on enhancing the
face at RPC Astrapak as she has been
client service experience. ‘In line
part of the team since 2013, while
with our strategy to optimise the
Mbatha is new to the company.
current sales structure and re-define
‘We have to know our customers
roles and responsibilities, it gives
intimately to build and forge solid
me great pleasure to announce the
relationships. Understanding our company’s core values of integrity and honesty come into play when dealing with both old and new clients. There is a need to ensure the best quality product is continuously provided in order to effectively grow in the market,’ Thusini concludes. Hlengiwe Thusini and Buhle Mbatha
42
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | Packaging Review
and product safety, product functionality and scalability. These must be addressed for sustainable materials to increase their market share,’ says Mayu Teeven, associate analyst of FMCG at GlobalData. The report states glass packaging is seen as environmentally friendly, yet it’s under threat in a world where convenience is crucial. On the other hand, even though the growth of flexible packaging across many categories is driven by cost and convenience, it will come under threat due to the low sustainability credentials of many plastics. GlobalData has identified Micro Fibrillated Cellulose (MFC), Polyvinyl Alcohol, Ethylene Vinyl Alcohol and Polyethylene Furanoate as the materials impacting innovation in sustainable packaging markets. MFC is a 100 percent renewable material based on cellulose fibers extracted from wood. It is also niche and severely limited by production capabilities. ‘The biggest challenge for producers is to convince consumers these sustainable packaging materials are worth the cost.
EVENTS
Generation automation
Omron hosted its Innovation Conference on 24 August at the CSIR International Convention Centre in Tshwane, Gauteng. This was to introduce a newly developed platform which alleviates manufacturers’ pressures by focussing on three principles.
I
ntegrated, intelligent, interactive and smart were the buzzwords at this year’s event. All are of equal importance in the development of Industry 4.0 initiatives. But what exactly does this mean for manufacturers and their customers? ‘While
Industry 4.0 might be a hot topic, what a lot of companies are saying is just hot air,’ says Lucian Dold, GM of product and channel marketing for the EMEA region at Omron Industrial Automation Europe. Although companies are interested in the adoption of automated technologies, it is not a new concept. ‘Omron has been working on manufacturing automation and data exchange for many years, both on its own and as part of working groups in Germany,’ he adds.
Omron’s Brynmor Majiedt, key account manager of panel builders and consulting engineer s; Quintin Nel, field sales engineer and Harold Kotzé, projects manager at the Inno vation Conference 2018
But could the concept be too broad and does it mean the same thing to everyone? While sensor networks, big data and artificial intelligence technologies are part of the Industry 4.0 concept, the results produced are what’s important.
Simplified approaches Networked, effective, agile and responsible or NEAR factory and i-Automation! are Omron’s advanced concepts. Having a NEAR factory means improved productivity in response to ever changing market demands. Within a networked factory there is a better connection between machines in a manufacturing
Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions
line. This provides improved control and efficiency. Data and control of the line can also be managed remotely. These concepts are able to draw on additional data, such as market forecasts, to efficiently manage production schedules. An effective factory is one with a high overall equipment efficiency (OEE). Raising OEE by one percent can deliver large gains. Smart, interconnected systems are able to detect and monitor potential issues to keep production lines running longer and allow maintenance to be scheduled at an appropriate time. This will help increase efficiency. Omron’s i-Automation! concept enables the NEAR factory concept to be implemented. It transforms the elements of Industry 4.0 into tangible benefits for machine makers. In a way, it sums up the value provided by Omron’s solutions for improving manufacturing sites by focusing on the principles of integration, intelligence and interactivity. Smarter machines help operators work effectively by monitoring processes and flagging any potential problems. This allows for processes to be adjusted, maintenance to be scheduled or for repairs to be made before
Delta Parallel robot Quattro and Hornet
Articulated robot Viper
SCARA robot eCobra
Mobile robot LD Series
The new Omron Robotic Automation enhances the most demanding manufacturing lines. Realize faster line start-up & change-over, implement easier to use technology & vertical line integration, and facilitate faster data capture & analysis to increase your in-line efficiency. Our industrial robotics range from articulated, SCARA, and DELTA to collaborative (mobile) robots that optimize the handling of varying lot sizes and diverse products, formats and qualities. Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions that give you a competitive edge!
the event of complete machine failure. It also helps keep manufacturing lines running longer, with less downtime and increased productivity. •
Discover how to improve your flexible production, contact us: +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za
Omron – www.industrial.omron.co.za
robot_88,5x130_p&c_review_ad_enza_01.indd 1 Packaging Review |
| 43 12:52 SEPTEMBER 2018 20-07-17
FILLING & SEALING EQUIPMENT
Safeguard your profits with filling accuracy Considering the nature of medicinal products, it is important to ensure packaging methods are faultless. Marchesini has upgraded a few of its filling machines for improved, accurately filled pharmaceuticals and diverse product handling. By Aarifah Nosarka
T
he MSP 560 from the Italian
additional improvements, which were
an electronically controlled filling system,
equipment manufacturer is a
made to the machine’s paper centring, reel
positive displacement pumps made of
vertical intermittent motion stick
unwinding and feeding control software
stainless steel, mechanical ceramic valves
packaging machine for nutraceutical
logic. The machine has been set up
and a rotary piston that incorporates valve
and pharmacological products. The
with a paper feeding path prearranged
functionality. The system’s capping turrets
company showcased a version of this
to accommodate various printers. This
have six or eight heads. The ML 661 can
technology last year at Interpack. This
includes an optional laser numbering
be used for all types of press-on caps,
year’s upgraded version was on show
device for printing variable data. It can be
aluminium seals, pilfer proof closures,
at Achema in June. The machine was
installed on an independent trolley with
screw caps or spray pumps. •
equipped with a volumetric batching unit
the possibility to simultaneously perform
for granular products. Myles Davis, director
the ‘easy open’ pre-cut on the reel. There
at MGSA Projects, the South African
is also an optional position for OCR+OCV
agent for Marchesini, says the machine
print control. These optional functions result
was redesigned for easy release from the
in a more efficient, easy to clean solution
working position.
that meets GMP requirements. The MSP
‘This is to simplify batch size changes
560 is versatile owing to the possibility to
and easily disassemble parts to clean and
interchange powder batching units with
sanitise them, especially those in direct
liquid batching ones.
contact with products.’
MGSA Projects – www.mgsaprojects.co.za
A CHANGE IN PERSPECTIVE
‘The machine is unique because it can
Its manoeuvring devices
be connected to a motion pick and place
MYLES DAVIS, FORMER director of MGSA
allow the operator to
system. This places products directly into
Consulting has opened a new company by the
the buckets of a conveyor belt or synchro-
name, MGSA Projects. This is the result of Davis’
dynamic transfer unit. All these features
former partners emigrating.
volumetric batching
make the MSP 560 an ideal solution for
‘After much discussion, it was agreed that
unit is connected to
packaging granular products into stick
registering a new company would be simpler,’
the base machine
packs,’ Davis explains.
Davis explains. He is the only shareholder at the
move batches to a suitable position. The
by quick-release
newly registered company.
FILL BOTTLES WITH EASE
‘I am excited about this development as there will
The ML 661 is a linear monobloc
be a more efficient, streamlined and personal
machine for filling and capping vials.
service will be provided.’
Its cantilevered, balcony type layout
MGSA Projects will continue to represent
assists with improved compliance with
Marchesini (Dumek, Vibrotec, Schmucker, Creinox
cGMP requirements, especially where
and Seavision), Brivetti, Abzil Telstar, Easysnap,
facilitate functional requirements during
laminar flow is a requirement. The
Adamus and MGQ. While the company is known in
production. Davis says the system is built
machine has robotised movements,
the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries, it will
into a structure that supports the star valve
which are achieved through brushless
also serve other segments.
and relevant loading hopper to facilitate
motors and controlled by a PC. There is
couplings. This enables quick disconnection of the mechanical, electrical and pneumatic systems for cleaning and to
extraordinary maintenance, if necessary. Its production speed depends on the number of lanes and types of products to be batched.
REFINED HARDWARE The upgraded MSP 560 comprises an improved dust removal system and a new horizontal straight cutting unit. There are
44
A close up of the MSP 560 stick packaging machine
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | Packaging Review
TO BE CONSTANTLY AT THE FOREFRONT OF TECHNOLOGY EFFICIENCY MAKES THE DIFFERENCE
• CONTINUOUS INVESTMENT IN R&D • 500 PATENTS GRANTED • FAST FORMAT PRODUCTION COMPLEX MARCHESINI GROUP. WE MAKE THE DIFFERENCE.
Myles Davis Myles Davis Mobile: +27 +27 (0) Mobile (0)82 82460 4602766 2766
Projects Pty Ltd
Email: myles@mgsaprojects.co.za
MARCHESINI.COM
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES
Waste reduction is possible South Africa continues to make a success out of recycling. Aarifah Nosarka brings you the latest statistics from Plastics|SA and reports on one company’s achievements in creating luxury packaging by re-using materials.
T
he most popular cosmetics and
64 percent of households. More than
Hanekom highlights. ‘Landfill material is
pharma packaging recycled in
12 percent of metropolitan households
often poor quality, contaminated and
South Africa is shampoo bottles,
do not even have regular refuse removal,
expensive to recycle.’
closures and outer packaging such
much less a two bin waste collection
as shrink sleeves. This is according
system where recyclables are collected
to Annabe Pretorius, GM of the
separately on a weekly basis,’
JOB CREATION AND THE ECONOMY
South African Plastics Recycling
Hanekom explains.
In 2017, plastics recycling provided an
Organisation (SAPRO).
income to more than 58 100 workers.
However, the combination of the
MORE TO BE DONE
This figure includes self employed
materials used in the different packaging
Over the years, access to good quality,
waste pickers, employees of smaller
components can present challenges.
relatively clean materials before they
entrepreneurial collectors and formal
These statements come in the wake
reach landfills has been one of the
jobs in designated factories.
of Plastics|SA’s recent announcement
biggest challenges to building the
There were increased tonnages per
regarding plastics recycling figures for
employee, which reached 53.8t –
the year ending 2017. The country’s input
seven percent more than 2016.
rate is at 43.7 percent. This is well above
Through the procurement of recyclables,
Europe’s rate of 31.1 percent. These results
an estimated R448 million was injected
indicate ongoing growth, which has been
into the economy at the primary
the case over the past seven years.
sourcing level. Although the rates tell an impressive story, local
PERFORMANCE DESPITE CHALLENGES
recyclers faced an uphill battle
Plastics|SA’s executive director,
selling their materials.
Anton Hanekom, comments: ‘South
‘For the second year in a row,
Africa is doing well with recycling.
these businesses had more
The latest results show we are slowly
recyclate than is required by
but steadily beating the odds.’
immediate and existing customers.
The South African recycling
This posed operational challenges,
industry is based on economic
as they were unable to sell their
principles whilst the practise is an
stock. Developing suitable end markets
environmental principle subscribed to
is critical for the sustainability of the
by most citizens and local councils in
industry,’ Hanekom highlights.
Europe. Recycling needs to
CREATE A DIFFERENCE
be financially viable in order to succeed in
industry. Despite the call for separation
Envirocore is passionate about
South Africa.
at source, where reprocessable materials
sustainability, particularly when it comes
are separated from non-recyclables,
to packaging. The company offers a
manual labour to sort
74 percent of the plastics recycled during
variety of composites suitable for the
the waste and recycle
2017 were obtained from landfill and
pharma and cosmetics industries. Its
compared to overseas
other post-consumer sources.
tissue composite is perfect for consumers
‘Regionally we rely on
In the European community,
[Europe] where the entire
owing to its recyclability and shelf-appeal.
process has become
government and the plastics industry
It is also ideal as an advertising medium
mechanised. There
are all involved in acquiring re-usable
for pharma companies.
are landfill restrictions
materials from waste streams as early
in place for recyclable
as possible. ‘It is a sad reality in South
more significant over the years and we
and recoverable waste in some of the
Africa that these materials are still
have always maintained the importance
European countries. In South Africa, there
being sourced from landfill at high costs
of producing packs that assist in sparing
is formal waste management for only
and posing dangers to waste pickers,’
waste sent to landfill,’ says Caron Green,
Anton Ha neko m, executive direc tor of Pla stics|SA
46
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | Packaging Review
‘Sustainable packaging has become
SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING & PRACTICES
composite cans, which serves the purpose of housing a product and can be used as a toy to stimulate children's minds. The popularity of composites has grown over the years owing to their on shelf appeal and reusable properties. ‘Recycling is a priority for us,’ Green explains, ‘as is corporate social responsibility and contributing to achieving a circular economy.’ •
Envirocore – www.envirocore.co.za Plastics|SA – www.plasticsinfo.co.za Caron Green and y Margaret Krishna sam
co-owner of Envirocore. Previously
complete and a few new machines
a small business, it outgrew its
were installed. ‘We now have
former premises, relocated to a larger property and tripled its production capacity. The company had a unit specifically built for the collection and recycling of composite cores and paperboard. Green and Margaret
DID YOU KNOW?
the speed and flexibility needed to process orders quickly and efficiently,’
In South Africa, more than 334 727t of plastics were recycled back into raw materials last year.
Krishnasamy, who is also a co-owner of Envirocore, are a
says Krishnasamy. Green is thrilled with the custom designed
AS THE POPULATION increases, plastic raw
facility. ‘We have the capacity to offer existing and
potential clients a unique South
mother and daughter team. Together they
African experience in finding the
commenced with the purpose of recycling,
perfect locally produced, well priced
refurbishing and supplying postal tubes and
composite pack.’
and dealt with responsibly. Recycling is an essential activity. Relevance is becoming more prominent as the drive to create a long term, circular economy requires end of life general. The momentum lies with four stakeholders:
WHAT’S IN IT FOR YOU?
South African packaging market for reusable
A powder composite fitted with a
upmarket composite packs. This led to the
powder dispenser and beautiful
establishment of the company’s composite
perfume composites designed as
division. The move to new premises in
one or two piece packs are just some
Boksburg East took place earlier this year.
of the unique offerings from Evirocore.
Envirocore purchased a larger property
materials become scarcer. Resources must be used
solutions for plastics packaging and plastics in
cores to brand owners and manufacturers. They soon realised there was a gap in the
ANTON HANEKOM’S TIPS FOR GROWTH
Packs for hair extensions and
adjacent to its former premises for the
protein shakes and the diffuser and
construction of offices, a staff kitchen and
gift packs are fully recyclable.
canteen, ablution facilities and two factories.
A newer addition to the Evirocore
The one factory is focused on composite
stable is a stimulating puzzle on
1. consumers 2. brand owners 3. retailers 4. plastics industry. Together with the three levels of government, new end markets must be developed. Technology must also be sourced to make recycling energy efficient and consistent, ultimately ensuring reliable levels of quality.
manufacturing, while the other is completely dedicated to gathering composite boards and converting them into re-usable materials. The construction took a year to
Packaging Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
47
ASSOCIATION NEWS//
AMA broadens its horizons
On 16 August, the AMA hosted its annual Gauteng breakfast at the Protea Hotel OR Tambo. Highlights included alternative energy solutions, an update on Industry Waste Management Plans and a sneak peek at the association’s new website.
U
nreliable electricity
IDEAS FOR INNOVATION
supply continues to have
To end the breakfast on a
a negative effect on
high note, the British Aerosol
businesses while rising utility
Manufacturers Association
costs can make a major dent in
(BAMA) shared a series of
manufacturers’ cash flow. There is
interesting presentations from
an urgent need for manufacturers
the BAMA Innovation Day, via
to take advantage of the tax
videoconference. The Retail Institute, part
incentives of solar power, to
of Leeds Beckett University
sustainably control the energy Dr John Greathead, AMA’s technical advisor; Maurits Perold, Turnkey Solar Solutions’ CEO and Nick Tselentis, executive director of the AMA
costs of their enterprises. Turnkey Solar Solutions has manufacturers get off the grid.
To date, only 300 producers have
Company CEO, Maurits Perold
registered and none of them have
was at the South African Aerosol
received registration numbers
Manufacturers’ Association (AMA)
from government.
breakfast to discuss how solar has
Because metals have a high
evolved from a public relations business decision. With solar technology, a saving of close on R3 million can
recycling rate, Dr Greathead said
DID YOU KNOW?
this waste stream does not need an Industry Waste Management Plan. As
a result, the AMA will The industry and members will enjoy a more modern AMA in the coming draft a letter to the first year, while the full months. The association is launching minister requesting the a new user-friendly website and a return on the investment exemption or exclusion fresh corporate identity. It will also can be realised in of aerosol cans. It’s no introduce webinars for training under five years. More doubt challenges lie and events, for members in importantly, manufacturers other regions. ahead with the IWMPs. The be achieved in the
can become cash flow
positive from month one because solar power has the ability to unlock additional cash flow for their facilities.
THE WAR ON WASTE Dr John Greathead gave an overview of the current position on the contentious subject of Industry Waste Management Plans (IWMP). Producers – that is anyone selling a packaged product or who produces packaging – were required to register their Section 28 Producer Responsible plans by 6 February.
48
focus group research on the sensory evaluation of
a variety of options to help
exercise to a straightforward
in the UK, has carried out
| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
aerosol products so that touch, smell and sound all combine to give consumers the best product experience. Coster, a multinational provider of spray packaging solutions and filling equipment, presented its platform actuator system, which is currently in development. Certain parameters of the design will be fixed, such as the actuator base and the position of the insert. The customisation offering of the top of the actuator is what makes it unique as it offers brand synergy while keeping down the cost for mould tools and assembly machines. •
Department of Environmental Affairs has a strong view all waste streams and plans will be managed by the Waste Bureau with levies introduced
Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association – www.aerosol.co.za British Aerosol Manufacturers Association – www.bama.co.uk
by Treasury. In order to a avoid a repeat of the Redisa saga, transparency and ethical governance will be key within the Waste Bureau.
The new AMA characters, which will feature on the new website
ASSOCIATION NEWS// COSCHEM
Strong bonds and inspiring stories Books clubs have become an obsession all over the world. It’s possibly because more than their common love for reading, the bonds between women in book clubs go far deeper than their book shelves.
MEN'S DAY HIGHLIGHTS
B
ased on the strong bonds that exist among the women in the cosmetics and personal care industry, Coschem chose the book club theme for 2018 Ladies Day. The event took place at Avianto in
Muldersdrift, Gauteng with about 180 women attending. There was also a charitable element to the day with the ladies donating old denims and other items to the Special Wings Foundation to make pencil cases. Old and new books were also donated to the Pavement Book Worm.
A DAY OF GREAT STORIES Conny Oberrauter, The Cosmetics Chef, shared insight into how to be the author of your own life. Crista du Plessis of Krav Maga spoke about self-defence techniques and staying safe in public environments. Nazli Jugbaran and Vuyo Mellet chatted about divine intervention. Brigette Assad of Lancôme shared an amazing story of fragrance through the ages and the luxury brand’s Write Her Future campaign, which seeks combat illiteracy among women all over the world. By far one of the most enlightening presenters was Dr Mpumi Simelane, ‘your gynaecologist on the couch’, who demystified issues surrounding menstruation and other common conditions affecting women. The formalities ended on a high note with Anita van Niekerk of Finesse magazine sharing a writer’s view of telling other peoples’ stories. Some of her most profound pieces include a look at the highs and lows of Joost van der Westhuizen’s life and how one woman overcame her gambling addiction. •
A celebration for the gents
O
n 25 July, Coschem hosted its inaugural men’s social and networking event at the Randpark Golf Club, in Johannesburg.
A beautiful crisp morning and stunning views of the golf course set the tone for an inspiring and valuable day of networking for the 40 guests who attended. Like the popular, long-standing Coschem ladies’ day, this event for the men of personal care industry combined entertainment, life experiences, philanthropy, a fun yet challenging quiz, motivational talks and relaxation in the form of neck and shoulder massages by Colour Me Fabulous. All the guests were asked to bring a soccer ball to donate to the non-profit organisation, GrassRoots Soccer. This global sporting initiative operates in townships and underprivileged communities, using soccer and other sports as a means of community development.
HEALTH AND HAPPINESS Safety in the workplace was presented by Werner Theron of WT Safety Compliance Consultants. Motul and Lescot enticed the men with a display of classic and custom vehicles; there was also a lucky draw for a custom detailing car treatment, which Wayne Anderson won. After tea, the men were entertained by Caesar Mathebula, a mentor from the Character Company. This non-profit organisation runs an extensive programme that seeks to raise boys with absent fathers to be good men. Evangelina Kalaitzi dispelled a variety of myths on diet and nutrition – which can often be very confusing as a result of information overload. Pieter van der Westhuizen, brother of the late rugby hero, Joost, shared an emotional account of his journey with his brother, from their childhood to the days leading up to his death. His talk was filled with so many of the happy moments
LADIES CELEBRATE THEIR STRONG CONNECTIONS
shared between Pieter and Joost. The day culminated with a delicious lunch on the patio overlooking the golf course. It was highly successful, thanks to the sponsors, and is set to become an annual event on the Coschem calendar. •
Coschem – www.coschem.co.za
P C Review | SEPTEMBER 2018 |
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Tea time TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive
+27 (0)82 976 6541
Carla Melless Sales executive
+27 (0)83 260 6060
Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive
ADVERTISERS' INDEX
+27 (0)71 438 1918
Afriplex....................................................39.........www.afriplex.co.za Anderson Engineering.............................23.........www.andersoneng.co.za Botanica Natural Products.......................34.........www.botanica.africa Botanichem.............................................32.........www.botanichem.co.za ChemSystems..........................................21.........www.chemsystems.co.za Chemical Initiatives.................................40.........www.cheminit.co.za CJP Chemicals..................................... OBC.........www.cjpchemicals.co.za Clariant.....................................................5.........www.clariant.com/personalcare Croda......................................................25.........www.croda.com Evonik........................................................6.........www.evonik.com Future Publishing Solutions........................9.........www.saphex.co.za H&R Group..............................................29.........www.hur.com IMCD.................................................... OFC.........www.imcdgroup.com Laboratory & Biological Services.............. 18.........www.labserve.co.za
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| SEPTEMBER 2018 | P C Review
Quick Crossword Clues Down 1. Abominable snowman (4) 2. Serviette (6) 3. Indolent (4) 4. Choice (9) 5. Marine mollusk (6)
7. Sustenance (9) 11. Time of year (6) 12. Gentle breeze (6) 15. Untrusting (4) 16. Aquatic bird (4)
Across 1. Hanker (5) 3. Lariat (5) 6. Decimal base (3) 8. Conundrums (7) 9. Garret (5) 10. Dull pain (4)
13. Long narrative poem (4) 14. Commence (5) 17. Vegetable (7) 18. Novel (3) 19. Nursemaid (5) 20. Synthetic fabric (5)
Merck......................................................27.........www.merck.co.za MGSA Projects.........................................45.........myles@mgsaprojects.co.za Nautica Organic Trading..........................28.........www.nauticaorganics.com O6 Agencies............................................33.........www.06southernafrica.com Omron.....................................................43.........www.industrial.omron.co.za Protea Chemicals....................................35.........www.proteachemicals.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals.................. 19, 31.........www.savannah.co.za SDK Agencies......................................... IFC.........www.sdkagencies.com Sensient Cosmetic Technologies..............36.........www.sensientcosmetics.com Serendipity Toiletries................................ 13.........www.serendipitytoiletries.co.za Triton Pharmacare...................................20.........www.tritonpharma.co.za Vantage Speciality Chemicals..................37.........www.vantagegrp.com Vital Health Foods.................................... 15.........www.vital.co.za Zinplex Cosmeceutical............................ 12.........www.zinplex.co.za
Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
COSCHEM
Supplier of cosmetic and personal care ingredients.
Visitors to the Society of
Ingredients include; Bioferments, Botanical Extracts, Delivery
Cosmetic Chemists’ website will
Systems, Enzymes, Functional Actives, Silicones, Emollients,
find information on membership,
Emulsifiers, Meadowfoam Seed Oil & Derivatives, Abyssinian and
educational programmes
other Oils, Shea and other Butters, Aliphatic Hydrocarbons, Lanolin
(specific details pertaining to the
& Derivatives
Cosmetic Science Diploma), as well as the society’s objectives
Tel: 010 595 9690 Email: info@esp-sa.co.za www.esp-sa.co.za
of promoting professionalism and higher technical skills in the cosmetics and toiletries industries.
www.coschem.co.za
M&L LABORATORY M&L Laboratory Services (Pty) Ltd, provides clients with an extensive array of analytical capabilities. M&L renders testing services to the Food & Beverage, Mining, Environmental, Water &
Glass distributors & importers of specialist glass bottles and
Pharmaceutical sectors. M&L is an ISO 17025 accredited facility,
closures. We are official distributors for Consol Glass. Dalgen is
licenced by the Medicine Control Council (MCC) & endorsed by the
your one stop packaging shop, specialising in pharmaceutical &
World Health Organisation (WHO). Our schedule of
cosmetic containers. We are able to service all areas in Africa.
accreditation can be viewed via www.sanas.co.za Mobile: +27 (0)76 114 9420 Office: +27 (0)11 661 7900 Email: keshav.beachen@za.bureauveritas.com
Tel +27 (0)31 569 4288 Fax +27 (0)31 569 4294 Email sales@dalgen.co.za or purchasing@dalgen.co.za www.dalgen.co.za
FORMPAK
BRB SILICONES
For over 40 years Formpak has supplied specialised processing,
The largest independent producer in the world of
packaging and printing machinery to the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, plastic, glass, chemical, food and dairy industries.
Tel +27 (0)11 828 8870/1/2 Fax +27 (0)11 828 8880 Email haase@formpak.com or service@formpak.com www.formpak.com
core and specialty silicones, BRB offers a wide range of solutions with unique benefits in skin, body and hair care and colour cosmetics.
www.brb-international.com
LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER
QUANTUM COLOURS SA
Look Good Feel Better, a global cosmetic industry programme
Your No. 1 industry leader
offers support to cancer patients focusing on emotional and social
for the most comprehensive
needs and well being.
ranges of both synthetic and
At 2 hour interactive workshops held in oncology units across
natural colours – used in food,
SA, cosmetics are used as tools
pharmaceutical, cosmetic and
to address visible side effects of
industrial applications.
treatment to assist patients to restore
Tablet coatings – manufactured,
self-esteem and face the world
supplied and marketed globally
with confidence.
under our trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC
www.lgfb.co.za
www.quantumcolours.co.za
Biodegradable alternatives to silicone oil to smooth cuticles and repair hair fiber damage
Cuticles Hair Tresses Observation
Non treated
EMOGREEN™ L15
EMOSMART™ V21
Dimethicone
Tel: +27 11 494 6700 | info@cjpchemicals.co.za | www. cjpchemicals.co.za SEPPIC S.A - 22 Terrasse Bellini, Paris la Défense - 92806 Puteaux cedex, France Tel. +33 ( 0 )1 42 91 40 00 - info.seppic@airliquide.com
seppic.com
HINA
C
Design : Gris Souris - Photo : Shutterstock - GEMSEAL® BioLife is a trademark of TOTAL Group
50% improvement in rinse-off formulas
China Compliant: All INCI names are listed on the IECIC 2015