SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
August 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 8
www.pharmacos.co.za
Chemical innovation
that creates a sustainable and prosperous world
GOOD HAIR DAYS All you need to care, cleanse, style and condition NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION ENTRANTS FEATURED IN THIS EDITION!
Cosmetics regulatory update & the keys to compliance First biosimilar approved for use in SA
Contents SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
Cosmetics regulatory conference
August 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 8
13
w w w.pharmacos.co. za
6 NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION
Meet the 2018 entrants!
8 NEWS
Bragan Chemicals diversifies into personal care
Sustainability remains a core focus at Lubrizol
Cipla Medpro acquires Mirren
12 EVENTS
Register to attend Africa Home & Personal Care Markets
Cosmetics regulatory conference planned at NWU in 2019
16 REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING
CTFA assists industry with regulatory transition
Insight into requirements for safety assessments
Laboratory services for claim validation and substantiation
Natural alternative to synthetic surfactants
20
19 SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES
Carst & Walker shares the spirit of Ubuntu
Consider Kaneka Surfactin for eco-friendly formulations
Sourcing sustainable palm oil in Peninsular Malaysia
24 HAIR CARE
Get straight shiny locks with Fixate Keratin
How to solve sulphate-free formulation challenges
Find out about Wacker’s new green silicones
IMCD promotes a unique bond technology
Innovative and functional ingredients from Millchem
Advanced polymers from Dow for styling and shine
Protect and repair hair with SymHair Shine
SA’s first biosimilar oncology drug approved for use
36
36 PHARMA FOCUS: R&D
Cipla celebrates a biosimilar approval first for SA
38 COLOUR COSMETICS
Inclusive beauty and innovative ideas for lipsticks
New functional mineral for enhanced formulations
44
41 44 Coding & Marking
Enhance security codes with quantum dots
A closer look at Hitachi’s UX series
48 Flexible
Packaging
Packs that protect and preserve
49 ASSOCIATION NEWS
The latest news from Coschem and SAAFFI
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
3
SOUTH AFRICAN PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW
From the editor
Specialities, success and sophistication
S
outh Africa’s cosmetics and personal
drug approved for use in South Africa.
care industry is more sophisticated
Turn to page 36 now to read about how
than ever. Many suppliers say
Filgrastim Teva, manufactured in Europe
the strong focus on commodities
by Teva and distributed locally by Cipla,
from about six years ago has shifted
will help bring down the cost of cancer
predominantly to speciality ingredients.
treatment in the country.
Local brands and manufacturers continue
The one size fits all approach to beauty
to align their product offerings with global
is now outdated, which is why our colour
beauty trends by focusing on the latest, hot
cosmetics feature on page 38 focuses on
ingredients. So, sales of speciality ingredients
inclusive beauty. We share tips, ingredients
are making a substantial contribution, if not
and a tried and tested approach, which
more than commodities, to the supplier’s
is sure to set you on the right path to
bottom line. As a result, we’re seeing an
developing customisable beauty products.
increased focus on speciality ingredients with
If you’re looking to up your anti-
commercial benefits developed or tailored
counterfeiting and traceability game
for the South African market. Our bumper
throughout the supply chain, in this month’s
hair care feature on page 24 is evident of
Packaging Review, Aarifah Nosarka delves
how much the industry has transformed.
into coding and marking developments on
Interesting reads include the launch of a
page 44.
professional hair care product to reduce frizz
We welcome your news, views and editorial contributions, remember to keep in
anionic surfactants to overcome formulation
touch with us. There are many ways to get
challenges associated with sulphate-free
in touch with the P C Review team. You
shampoos, a unique bond technology
can connect with us on social media, by
that doesn’t interfere with the bleaching or
liking the @PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview
colouring process, new styling and shine
Facebook page or following @SApharmacos
enhancing polymers and an anti-pollution
on twitter or send an e-mail to abby.vorster@
active for healthy hair.
newmediapub.co.za to discuss your article suggestion or news.
industry. On page 20 in the sustainable practices feature, we look at what
Enjoy the read!
innovative ingredients have emerged as a
ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za
General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb
NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl
EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD
HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
Consultant, drbaileys.com
Dr Trevor Baillie
Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions
Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons
John Knowlton
CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University
Vivian Frittelli
Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
Contributor: Prof Beverley Summers
John Psillos
milestone with the first biosimilar oncology
4
Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
The pharma industry celebrates a major
CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa
Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 aarifah.nosarka@newmediapub.co.za
Bridget McCarney
environmentally friendly formulations.
P C Review is the official journal of:
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
result of increased consumer demand for
Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA
EDITORIAL
PUBLISHING TEAM
and improve manageability, innovative non-
Sustainability is also a top priority for the
THE TEAM
COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
Moco Packaging is well established as one of the largest stockists of specialised cosmetic and pharmaceutical packaging in South Africa. The extensive range of high-quality plastic and glass containers and accessories is obtained from local and international sources. Our own moulds enable us to satisfy almost all packaging requirements at excellent prices. Printing and frosting facilities are available. Keeping up to date with modern technology ensures that we procure a variety of new packaging items and components.
Tel: (011) 624-3493/4 | Fax: (011) 618-3622 Email: sales@mocopack.co.za | www.mocopack.co.za 18 Auret Street Jeppestown 2094 | P.O. Box 15773 Doornfontein 2028
NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION
It’s competition time!
Local and international cosmetics brands are going head to head in the 2018 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition. Entries closed at the end of June. We received 20 submissions of various ranges and individual products, which were judged on 2 August by our esteemed panel of judges.
T
he New Product Competition is now in its
been reformulated or repackaged with the aim of
11th year. Since its inception, P C Review and
improving on the original offering.
Symrise – the main sponsor of the competition – have been encouraging innovation in the
This year, P C Review welcomed MCC Labels on board as the sponsor of the packaging category.
cosmetics industry. The aim of the competition is to give
By working with MCC Labels, we hope to grow the
local and international brands, which are available on
packaging section of the competition, ultimately
the South African market, an opportunity to showcase
driving more brands to source their packaging and
their unique, new products or those that have either
labelling locally.
Save the date
The P C Review/ Symrise New Product Competition awards evening will take place on 11 October, in Illovo, Sandton.
INTRODUCING THE 2018 ENTRANTS
Dimanzi eau de parfum is produced in South Africa using essential oils sourced from Grasse, France. This fine fragrance brand is the brainchild of Di Thompson, who used her beauty industry experience to create a competitively priced perfume. A rainbow floral green fragrance with fresh and woody notes, Dimanzi eau de parfum captures the essence of the African spirit while staying aligned with epitome of French chic.
Avroy Shlain’s CRT range is said to be the first ever skin care range to combine powerful problemspecific anti-ageing technologies with Timetouch Innovation, to create the ultimate skin care experience. The CRT Age-Defying Night Cream, Anti-Pigmentation Day Cream SPF30, Anti-Wrinkle Plumping Day Cream SPF25 and Dynamic Hydration Day Cream SPF20 are positioned as multiethnic, making them suitable for all skin types.
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| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
Avon’s ANEW Reversalist Infinite Effects Night Treatment Cream is one of the first-ever rotational night cream formulations that continues to improve the signs of ageing month after month. The key to the night cream’s long-term efficacy is a proprietary rotational technology that combines two formulations – the first one is a Phyto+ complex for the prep phase and the second, a SuperRetinol complex for the treatment phase.
Three years since its New Product Competition win, Kalahari Lifestyle is back with two entries, an individual product and a range. Ultra Rich Skin Complex is an antioxidant-rich evening moisturiser compounded of highly proactive ingredients. These include vitamin C, marine botanicals from sea kelp, peptides and hyaluronic acid with anti-ageing and regenerating benefits. Kalahari Lifestyle has also entered its range of serums, which have been repackaged. The range includes an anti-puffiness eye serum, intensive night serum, instant lifting serum, phytoflora serum and a marula face oil.
Formulated with a blend of 100 percent natural, high performance ingredients, Cherish Beauty’s Cleansing Oil is designed to deep cleanse whilst balancing skin’s natural oil production. This product gently removes impurities without stripping the skin. The theory behind oil cleansing is ‘oil dissolves oil’. By using the correct combination of natural oils, pores can be cleansed of dirt and bacteria – naturally, gently and effectively.
NEW PRODUCT COMPETITION
Schwarzkopf Professional, a Henkel brand, is pushing boundaries in hair care with its new detoxifying scalp care system and line of shampoos, serums and conditioner products formulated with natural oils. The BC Scalp Genesis range consists of a self-warming detox prep-treatment; purifying, root activating and anti-dandruff shampoos; and soothing, root activating and rebalancing serums. The Oil Ultime range includes light and normal oil-in-shampoo, oil-in-spray conditioner, oil-inconditioner and several finishing oils.
Quick Grow is an advanced amino hair care product range. The products are scientifically formulated to supplement the body with a precise blend of amino acids, minerals and vitamins, training it to produce keratin faster. The result is proven accelerated hair growth. The range includes an advanced amino shampoo and conditioner in two different pack sizes, a hair mask and nutritional supplements. Only the shampoo and conditioner products have been entered into the competition.
In a world flooded with information and choice, Skin Creamery exists to simplify skin care. This Cape Town-based South African brand was developed by skin care therapist, Hannah Rubin, who is committed to natural, simple living. The Skin Creamery range consists of a lightweight moisturiser called The Everyday Cream, a Facial Hydrating Oil that contains a plethora of certified organic oils, an exfoliating Facial Cleansing Powder, the luxurious Oil-Milk Cleanser and the Two-Phase Skin Tonic, which contains a mineral-rich crystal extract derived from Malachite.
After entering the Zinplex Tattoo range into the 2017 P C Review/Symrise New Product Competition, Zinplex’s R&D team used the judges’ thorough feedback constructively to reformulate the three products. The new and improved Zinplex Tattoo range has been entered into this year’s competition as well as Zinplex Embrowdery, an exclusive professional aftercare treatment for permanent makeup and microblading procedures.
Oh So Heavenly’s new hypo-allergenic range is proven to be kind and gentle on dry, sensitive skin. With moisturisers this gentle, skin will forget it’s sensitive. The range consists of three products: a hypo-allergenic emollient cream; hypo-allergenic emollient body lotion enriched with Glycerine; and a hypoallergenic, colourant-free emollient cream for babies and children.
The Boost range of skinboosting serums promise to enhance any skin care routine. Boost serums are scientifically formulated, performance driven and address consumers’ primary antiageing concerns. These serums are positioned to capture the growing market demand for performance driven yet affordable skin care products. The range includes Calm, Glow, Clear, Energise, Quench and Smooth serums, all formulated with innovative delivery systems.
SKNlogic offers a cosmeceutical range of skin care products that promise real results. These products are formulated with the highest grade of quality ingredients to optimise skin health. The SKNLogic gentle cleanse cream, SKNLogic hydrating serum and SKNLogic multi active lotion are the three individual products entered into the competition. Fig extract, shea butter, lactic acid and hyaluronic acid are some of the key ingredients incorporated into these cutting-edge skin care products.
Optiphi, a professional skin care brand, has an expert understanding of the inner workings of the skin which allows its R&D team to create unique and highly effective skin care products with unparalleled results. Two of the newest offerings from Optiphi are the Classic Clarity Serum and Solar Spritz. The Classic Clarity Serum is formulated with micro-encapsulated Salicylic Acid for time-controlled diffusion into the skin. The Solar Spritz SPF 30 is packaged in a practical, fully recyclable aluminium spritz bottle, promoting easy application and making it ideal for an active lifestyle.
ORS, a leader in the Ethnic hair care market, focuses on meeting the unmet needs of the health-conscious, multi-cultural consumer. The brand has entered three of its latest innovations into the competition. These include the lightweight Olive Oil Wrap/Set Mousse, the ultra-nourishing crème on crème nolye hair relaxer kit for touch ups and Hair Mayonnaise, which combines a rich blend of botanical extracts, whole egg protein, olive oil and wheat germ oil.
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
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NEWS
Alan Rahme and Musa Sabinda
BlanX White Shock Toothpaste launches in SA ACDOCO SOUTH
innovation harnesses natural light
AFRICA, a specialist
to fuel the whitening process. BlanX
consumer packaged
contains Actilux formula, which
goods distributor, has
is activated by sunlight to whiten
secured the exclusive
teeth. This product can be used
distribution rights for
in conjunction with an LED light
BlanX White Shock
designed exclusively to boost the
Toothpaste in South Africa.
effect of the Actilux formula. For an
In the last few years
even more intensive treatment and
there has been extensive
quicker whitening action one can
growth in premium
use the BlanX Treatment with the
whitening oral care
LED Bite device for up to four shades
products with the global
whiter teeth in just two weeks.
industry being valued at over
‘Blanx is a category value
BRAGAN BREAKS INTO PERSONAL CARE
US$6 billion. Coswell, brand
accelerator, offering consumers
AFTER A FIVE year sabbatical, Alan Rahme has
owner of the BlanX range
a new, gentle and very effective
made a comeback to the personal care industry
and Italian manufacturer
whitening solution. The response
as national sales director of Bragan Chemicals
of personal care products
and uptake in the South African
(Bragan). The company was started 10 years ago by
identified a gap in this
market thus far has exceeded
Craig and Julie Taylor and has made huge strides as
expectations,’ states Jason Frichol,
a premium ingredient and additive supplier, growing
MD of Acdoco SA.
significantly as a result of the quality of service and
growing segment for an oral care whitening product range formulated
BlanX White Shock Toothpaste
without harmful
is available at selected Clicks
ingredients. Its point of
stores nationwide.
products it offers at the right price. Rolfes Group, a JSE listed company, acquired the Bragan brand in 2015, making Bragan a significant partner in the various industries it serves. Nathan Bevis was appointed MD of the company in 2017, bringing his extensive industry knowledge to the
ONLINE MARKETPLACE
business to ensure it reaches greater heights while
FOR SAFER CHEMICALS
Rahme will add value to the Bragan brand.
CHEMSEC’S E-MARKETING platform for sustainable chemistry – Marketplace – is growing. Only a year
attitude will assist Bragan in successfully re-entering
into the development cycle, the first 50 advertisements for safer chemical alternatives are now online.
the personal care industry. In April, he visited
Rahme experience in growing successful companies combined with his service-orientated
Stakeholders in the chemical industry recognise the Marketplace’s potential, including the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA), the Swedish Government and Green Chemistry leaders in the USA. The business-to-business platform currently boasts everything from non-toxic water repellents for textiles to safe flame-retardants and alternative chrome plating.
in-cosmetics Global in Amsterdam to re-kindle relationships with various principles. ‘It was great to see many of my old friends who are keen to give Bragan the opportunity to market their products into
‘There is a large diversity of safer chemistry on the platform; something we know is in high demand by brands and retailers worldwide looking to substitute toxic chemicals in products and supply chains,’ says Jerker Ligthart, Marketplace project manager.
Africa,’ Rahme comments. Bragan has had significant success in export markets, servicing all sub-Saharan African countries
Among the many companies that have advertised their sustainable products on Marketplace
as far north are Kenya and the DRC. This is made
are listed businesses such as Chemours, Clariant and Huntsman. Yet its not exclusive to large,
possible through its infrastructure in South Africa,
multinationals – there are opportunities for smaller companies too.
including its head office in Johannesburg and
‘It is very inspiring to see start-ups coming up with new solutions without hazardous chemicals. Take the company Acticell for example – it developed the new bleaching technology LB3 for denim fabrics that makes hazardous chemicals like potassium permanganate redundant. Advertising on Marketplace is a great way for them to increase visibility and potentially attract new investments,’ Ligthart adds.
branches in Cape Town, Durban and Port Elizabeth. Bragan also recently achieved ISO 9001:2015 accreditation and is BBBEE compliant. It will be challenging to break into the market, but Rahme believes with his 18 years’ industry
ChemSec is also excited to announce a first partnership agreement with the non-profit
experience, he can achieve success for Bragan
GreenBlue, a parent organisation to CleanGredients. This is the definitive database of market-ready
in personal care. The company also recently
chemical ingredients pre-approved to meet US EPA’s Safer Choice standard. This cooperation will
appointed a personal care sales rep, Musa
allow CleanGredients’ users to market their products on Marketplace and increase the visibility of
Sabinda, who joined the team in July.
Marketplace
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| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
‘I am so excited to be back in the industry,’
and
Rahme exclaims. ‘All my business relationships with
CleanGredients
principles and customers were built on friendship
in both Europe
and I cherish these bonds, which make it feel like
and the US.
I’ve never left the industry.’
NEWS
Industry jolted by Amazon’s acquisition of PillPack THE PROSPECT OF
Merck, Novo Nordisk, Celgene, Bayer, Biogen,
the potential reinvigoration of protectionism. In North
Amazon entering the
Sanofi, Roche, Novartis, J&J and Eli Lilly recorded a
America, 10 players have indicated negative growth
pharma industry with the
negative market cap growth of over 10 percent in Q1
in their M Cap due to the genericisation of key drugs
acquisition of PillPack
2018. Key factors affecting market cap performance
and failure in clinical trials to achieve their desired
will be a troubling
included the inability to strike major new deals,
end points.
development for global
poor performance of struggling divisions, revenue
pharma executives. This
dependence on a small number of drugs, collapsed
makes GlobalData’s review of the
sales of top drugs and the loss of patent exclusivity.
performance highlights of the Top 25 publicly traded global pharma companies well-timed. The data and analytics company tracked the market
CSL’s market cap grew by around 10 percent
The quarter also witnessed a flurry of M&A negotiations and transactions, including:
based on strong results in 2017. Vertex sustained its
• T akeda’s proposed US$64 billion acquisition of Shire
impressive growth by gaining 22nd position at the end
•G SK’s US$13 billion agreement to buy Novartis’ stake
cap performance of the Top 25 pharma companies for
of Q1 2018 driven by positive results from its clinical
the quarter ending 31 March, 2018 compared to 2017
studies of a breakthrough drug for the treatment of
revealing a number of interesting insights.
cystic fibrosis.
Based on market cap, the top 25 players list in 2017
Asia Pacific headquartered companies’ market cap aggregate recorded a positive growth in Q1 2018.
in its consumer-health joint venture •M erck’s US$4.2 billion intended divestiture of its overthe-counter unit to P&G
Looking at geographical data, the aggregated
remained unchanged in Q1 2018 however there were
market cap of North American and European
some positional movements. J&J maintained its top
companies fell 6.9 and 12.8 respectively in Q1
position in the quarter with Abbott and BMS entering the
2018. All top players in Europe registered a negative
top 10, ousting Sanofi and Bayer.
growth due to risks posed by Brexit and panic over
• S anofi’s planned divestiture of its European genericdrug business to Advent International Corp •N ovartis’ US$8.7 billion acquisition agreement with AveXis • S anofi’s planned acquisition of Ablynx for €3.9 billion.
Lubrizol maintains its sustainability commitments EVERY DAY MORE people take environmental awareness and their carbon footprint
to safeguard the welfare of the environment and people by setting out innovative,
into account. As a result Lubrizol is totally committed to conserving our planet.
challenging and progressive criteria for organic and natural cosmetics, which
The company is actively reducing CO2 emissions with its Noverite LD 920N ingredient, which provides high natural content and significantly reduces environmental impact
consumers can trust and are good for the environment. Lubrizol’s botanicals meet the National Organic Program (NOP) standard. NOP is a
when used to make finished laundry detergent. On average, Lubrizol’s home care
regulatory programme, housed within the USDA Agricultural Marketing Service which
customers use significantly less water, 17 percent less energy and reduce their CO2
assures consumers products with the USDA organic seal meet consistent, uniform
emissions by about 1 000t per year when manufacturing with Noverite LD 920N. The
standards. This certificate is widely recognised and has the same validity as COSMOS
company’s unique chemistry enables its customers to improve these key environmental
out of the US.
performance indicators by delivering superior dispersion, even in cold water processing. Lubrizol also provides transparency into the amount and origin of renewable
Lubrizol Skin Essentials also offers a lot of Halal certified ingredients. Produced, packaged and distributed according to Islamic rules, these products are believed to
materials in its ingredients, and only works with suppliers that do business ethically
be beneficial and healthy for humans, promoting improved quality of life and reducing
and responsibly.
health risks.
Lubrizol’s concern for the environment is reflected in its product portfolio, where
The Certificate of Compliance for Cosmetics GMP granted to Lipotec Active
technology and efficacy are as important as sustainability. The certifications linked to
Ingredients confirms the company’s good practices for its manufacturing, packing,
its products guarantee this.
labelling, control and storage activities.
Various ingredients from Lubrizol Skin Essentials have been assessed and validated
Ultimately, Lubrizol and Lipotec care about safety and the environment in the same
compliant with the COSMOS standard, obtaining the Attestation of Conformity for
way they care about the health of skin. Lubrizol is represented locally by Carst & Walker
raw materials according to COSMOS. The COSMOS standard’s ultimate objective is
while Savannah Fine Chemicals is the agent for Lipotec.
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
9
NEWS
CIPLA GROWS NATIONAL FOOTPRINT WITH MIRREN ACQUISITION
NEW SURVEY FROM PRC AND NIELSEN TO PROVIDE DATA ON 5 000 BRANDS
Malcolm Blane, CFO of Mirren, with Paul Miller and Lynton Lomas
NIELSEN WILL RELEASE consumer panel data this month fused with 2017 PAMS data. This is an enhanced survey that will provide industry with rich information on 200 consumer goods categories and more than 5 000 brands. The study is funded by the Publisher Research Council (PRC) and provides manufacturers, media agencies and publishers with real consumption CIPLA MEDPRO SOUTH Africa (Cipla Medpro), wholly owned subsidiary
behaviour, based on over 17 000 PAMS respondent interviews and 4 000 CPS households visited every two to four weeks throughout the year.
of Cipla Limited, India (Cipla), has announced plans to acquire a Terry M urphy
Nielsen Watch MD, Terry Murphy
100 percent stake in Mirren. Mirren is a local manufacturer and distributor of over-the-counter (OTC) pharma products and has been in operation for 35 years.
says: ‘PAMS is the core hub of the study, which we will overlay with top line CPS data that stems from 20 years of robust, credible and
Cipla Medpro is South Africa’s fourth largest pharmaceutical company in the private sector.
trusted measurement providing verified consumption. This will create a full picture of readership, lifestyle and shopping behaviours
The transaction is subject to the approval by the Competition Commission of South Africa.
amongst South African consumers together with their product consumption, based on two independent data sources.’ Actual scanned data is collected in households at least once a
Paul Miller, CEO of Cipla South Africa, said that once approved, the transaction will enhance Cipla’s current OTC portfolio, by adding Mirren’s well-established brands such as Broncol cough syrup, Coryx,
month, resulting in a total of 48 000 household visits a year and
Tensopyn and Ultimag. This deal will also increase Cipla’s local
the measurement of 200 000 shopping occasions. It will also
manufacturing footprint.
provide penetration of categories including personal and home care
Lynton Lomas, director of Mirren, said: ‘The acquisition by Cipla will
and food and beverages, as well as usage, in terms of frequency
help ensure the continued growth achieved by Mirren brands over the
and volumes. A new metric will be the breakdown of heavy,
past three years will be sustained. The wellbeing of Mirren’s dedicated
medium, light and non-buyers across the country and for existing
staff was one of the biggest deciding factors during this process.’
demographic profiles including LSMs and SEMs. PRC head, Peter Langschmidt adds, ‘The newly fused PRC PAMS
Miller adds: ‘We foresee this transaction will aid Cipla greatly in future by improving the range of quality medication we are able to offer South
and Nielsen CPS data is an exciting innovation in South Africa’s
Africans. Cipla aims to take full leverage of this proposed transaction to
consumer and media landscape. It will be available on all industry
deliver on its ethos of “Caring for Life”, by providing quality, affordable
media planning software platforms in early August.’
medical products.’
ISPE Foundation to support pharma industry training and research THE INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY for Pharmaceutical Engineering (ISPE) has launched a philanthropic arm, the ISPE Foundation. This new entity will enhance the society’s ability to support members and the pharma industry in preparation to address new and evolving industry demands. ‘The pharmaceutical industry continues to create new and innovative medicines that improve and extend patients’ lives. These advancements also create new demands and opportunities for our industry. By establishing the ISPE Foundation, ISPE becomes better positioned to effectively embrace those opportunities and support our members,’ says Michael Arnold, chair, ISPE Foundation. The foundation will seek funding to support a dynamic range of new missionrelated initiatives. Initially, these will include building the workforce of the future, empowering women and increasing diversity, and global knowledge exchange. Through the ISPE travel grant programme, which will attract, support, educate
and networking for women and ethnically diverse people, these initiatives will drive the successful career progression of under-represented groups within the pharmaceutical industry. Translation of ISPE’s highly regarded industry guides is another focus of the foundation, to make this valuable content available to the growing global workforce
and train talented young people entering the industry, students and young
through Emerging Markets Knowledge Exchange. In addition, the training of global
professionals will receive financial support to further their professional development
regulators in industry best practices will be sponsored by the Global Training and
and contribute to building the industry’s future workforce.
Harmonisation Fund.
The ISPE Foundation will support the society’s existing Women in Pharma programme. Providing professional training and education and fostering mentorship
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| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
To learn more about the ISPE Foundation or to make a tax deductible donation, visit www.ISPE.org/Initiatives Foundation.
2018
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P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
11
EVENTS
Learn to formulate
for Africa’s new consumers CMT’s Africa Home and Personal Care Markets summit, taking place on 26 and 27 September, aims to discuss the opportunities in the lucrative home and personal care industries and will draw major decision makers.
T
he Centre for Management Technology (CMT), a global conference organiser in Singapore, is hosting the Africa
Home and Personal Care Markets summit at the Radisson Blu Gautrain Hotel Sandton in Johannesburg. The two day summit will focus on Africa’s fast emerging beauty, personal and home care segments. It will address the region’s diverse hair
The rising middle class in South Africa, Nigeria, Ethiopia and Kenya is expected to boost the demand for cosmetics, hair and home care products
care demands, formulation trends, the growth potential of laundry detergents,
Specialty Chemicals in a session entitled ‘Green and Natural Ingredients Trends in Africa’s Skin Care Formulation’. Botanica Natural Products will share information on the ‘Production and Supply of African Ingredients to African Personal Care Markets in subSaharan Africa’. Euromonitor International’s ‘Regional Overview of the sub-Saharan Africa Beauty and Personal Care Sectors’ is also included in the seminar.
Production and consumption of laundry
raw material innovations and brand
detergents is another key focus with East
Network and exhibit
owners’ expectations.
African Lion Brands Industries highlighting
The event is a key platform for Africa’s
Sub-Saharan Africa is one of fastest
Ethiopia’s home and personal care market
home and personal industry, including
growing economies in the world with
prospects, in a presentation on the demand
manufacturers, raw materials producers
about 821 million consumers, making it a
and supply projection and the rise of
and suppliers, retailers, brand owners,
ready market for personal and home care
powder detergent versus laundry soap, as
consultants, providers of supply
products. East Africa alone is home to
well as the raw materials supply chain.
chain solutions, packaging designers
over 350 million people, where consumer
PZ Cussons Nigeria will share a detailed
spending is expected to multiply in the next
account on formulating home and personal
few years. A growing population and rising
care products for Nigeria’s consumers.
middle class in countries like South Africa,
Packaging design trends to fit African
and producers, formulators and contract manufacturers. You can also promote organisation to influential players and investors in the
Nigeria, Ethiopia and Kenya are expected to
consumers and packaging demand in
industry. Send an e-mail to fiona@cmtsp.
boost the demand for cosmetics, hair and
the digital age will be reviewed by Unilever
com.sg for more information on sponsorship
home care products.
South Africa while Dabur South Africa will
packages or to book your exhibition space.
present a paper on ‘Changing Formulation
For more information, visit https://bit.
Major players share knowledge
Trends in Private Labels Cosmetics and
ly/2JPXozM, the Africa Home and Personal
The summit offers an ideal platform to
Personal Care’.
Care Markets website or send an e-mail to
discuss the trends in Africa’s rising beauty,
The current regulatory environment in
personal and home care markets. There will
South African personal care and cosmetics
be a special focus on addressing the diverse
industry is shifting from
hair care demands, including afro, curly and
self regulation to full
natural hair.
regulation. Event supporter,
Experts from leading suppliers, brand
the Cosmetic, Toiletry &
owners and manufacturers, with operations
Fragrance Association of
in Africa, will present at the summit.
South Africa, will shed light
L’Oréal South Africa will present a session on ‘the Crown of African Women: Addressing
on the proposed regulations. The increasing awareness
Diverse Hair needs in sub-Saharan
of natural cosmetics and
Africa’, highlighting the various hairstyle
skin care products will be
requirements of consumers on the continent.
presented by Vantage
12
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
grace@cmtsp.com.sg. •
NWU to host international
EVENTS
cosmetics regulatory conference The inaugural international conference on Cosmetic Product Safety and Compliance takes place on 6 and 7 March 2019 at NWU Sports Village and Conference Centre in Potchefstroom, South Africa.
T
he aim of the conference is to establish solutions for cosmetics and personal care brand owners, manufacturers and regulators
to align and comply with international
of the regulations, cosmetic GMP and
regulatory standards.
relating manufacturing standards and
According to the North West University (NWU), the main idea is to educate and
cosmetics claims will be addressed. Talks by Zoran Gavric and Herman van
• Zoran Gavric (TRC Europe, The Netherlands) • Herman van Zonneveld (TRC Europe, The Netherlands).
inform delegates about international
Zonneveld from TRC Europe will centre on how
legislation and guidelines, as well as the
to move forward harmoniously. South African
To encourage compliance
documentation and product information
regulatory experts will also discuss the current
The NWU’s goal is to offer a much required
required to export a cosmetics product to EU
local legislation. Raw materials suppliers
regulatory discussion platform for industry
member states. The event will also facilitate
and product owners/manufacturers and
stakeholders, to network and work
discussions around the current South
regulatory professionals shouldn’t miss out on
together to advance their companies and
African cosmetics product regulatory status,
this informative session.
build their export capacity. Ultimately, this
problematic areas, the possible solutions and how to align with SA legislation.
The second sub-theme will question how to demonstrate the safety and compliance of cosmetics products. Discussions
This two day event is planned to assist local industry stakeholders on their journey toward compliance This two day event, organised by the
will help put South African brands on the global map. It is also the organiser’s vision to build
will include: the structure and
and align research capabilities with that
minimum contents of the
of international role players, to connect,
cosmetics product information
uplift and bring industry partners together
file (or PIF); the essential dossier
to form an integral alliance that drives the
documents and data; which tests
South African cosmetics industry forward.
reports are required and what
As a result, all other industry partners are
information they should provide.
invited to either contribute as a speaker or
General cosmetics
register as a delegate to attend.
product safety assessments and principles will also be
Secure your spot
highlighted. This session will
For more information on the cost to attend
include the safety assessment in practise
the International Conference on Cosmetic
NWU, is planned to assist local industry
and important practicalities you would not
Product Safety and Compliance, to provide
stakeholders on their journey toward
find in the guidelines as well as the role and
sponsorship or pitch your presentation
regulatory compliance. The conference is
responsibilities of a safety assessor.
idea to speak at the event, please send an
endorsed by the Department of Trade and Industry and CECOSA.
An informative programme The conference will be spilt into two
There will be talks product stability, expiry date or period after opening, stability testing approaches, analytical and clinical testing and which evaluation makes sense. The following international keynote
e-mail to anina.vanderwalt@nwu.ac.za or monica.young@nwu.ac.za. Registration closes on 8 February 2019. The cost of the conference includes all teas and lunches and is required to cover the
sub-themes. The first will explore the
speakers are confirmed:
conference facility venue hire fee. Speakers
cosmetics regulations and whether local
• Prof Vera Rogiers (chair, SCCS, VUB
presenting at the conference will receive
brands and manufacturers correspond
toxicology, Belgium)
with these guidelines. General principles
• Prof Mary Gulumian (TOXSA chair)
of regulating cosmetics, global
• Diana Khazaka (director, Courage &
standards, how to deal with annexes
Khazaka, Germany)
complimentary attendance. •
North West University – www.nwu.ac.za
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
13
COMPANY FOCUS
Shaping the world through
chemical innovation Protea Chemicals has stepped up its strategy by adjusting its market offerings for maximum customer value. Abby Vorster looks at the latest developments within the company and its realigned consumer care division.
P
rotea Chemicals (Protea) has for many
office in Ghana
years been perceived as a supplier of
and has recently
commodity products only. Yet its offerings
secured new business in
add value for customers at every stage
Côte d’Ivoire.
of the value chain. Its products enable the ‘world of things’ and in the pharmaceutical, personal
Improved specialities basket
care and home care industries, without Protea’s
The sales of speciality chemicals contributed
support, many of the cosmetics, hair and skin
42 percent to Protea’s revenue in 2017 and
care, healthcare and household products
45 percent for the year ended March 2018. As
consumers use wouldn’t exist.
a result of their higher margins and growing
The company also supplies products and
contribution to the company’s financial success,
solutions to the food and beverage, water
Protea has improved its basket of offerings by
treatment, paints and inks, plastics, rubber,
securing new distribution partnerships with
petroleum and lubrication, packaging and
several leading international principals.
paper, and animal feed markets.
Stella Lanolines
By applying intellectual capital and technologies to all key points along its supply
Back-integrated into the wool industry, Stella
and service chains, Protea differentiates
Lanolines offers a wide range of high purity
itself from the competition. This winning
lanolin products and derivatives
focus enables the company to create value, both up and down the supply chain, by tailoring its products and services to the specific and changing needs of its customers. The company forms part of the Omnia Group and is responsible for the group’s main chemicals business. The group
specifically designed for the pharma
DID YOU KNOW?
and cosmetics industries, for skin, personal, baby and body care
Protea Chemicals has launched a new corporate video, highlighting its realigned brand message and the significant role the company plays in improving consumers’ lives. Visit https://bit.ly/2mwNIRB to watch it now.
recently appointed Funani Mojono as MD of Protea, marking a major transformation
applications, as well as antiageing and anti-wrinkle lotions and products for skin disorder solutions. The company operates from an environmentally friendly state of the art refining plant based in Belgium.
Lanolin is a natural, organic, renewable raw material that originates from
first for the business and chemicals industry as
the natural secretion of the sebaceous glands of
a whole.
sheep and has a long history of traditional use for
There have also been a number of internal improvements at Protea, including securing new
its skin treating properties. Protea distributes cosmetic, USP and EP grades
principal agencies and boosting its import and
of anhydrous lanolin from Stella Lanolines, as
handling capacity. The company has expanded
well as USP and pesticide-free grades of lanolin
its I&I facilities with a liquids blending plant, which
oil, lanolin wax, ethoxylated lanolin (PEG-30
it plans to grow beyond liquids to meet the needs
and PEG-75), cosmetic and EP grades of
of multinational customers. Protea will continue
lanolin alcohol and IPL.
to outsource innovation to an independent applications laboratory until this capability is
Agrana Starch
brought in house.
For brand owners
Its African growth strategy is well on track with
14
and manufacturers
key developments in the eastern and western
looking for
regions. Protea is in the process of opening up an
alternatives
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
COMPANY FOCUS
to silicones, nylons and micro-
argan, avocado, baobab, chia, rapeseed,
plastics, Agrana Starch offers a
pomegranate and soy bean oils, cocoa
range of starches for cosmetics
and shea butters, and bees wax.
and body care applications. These starches can be sourced locally from Protea. They are sustainable and
Lincoln Manufacturing Based in Lincoln, USA, Lincoln
organically degradable, making them
Manufacturing produces multifunctional
an ideal natural alternative to chemical
antimicrobials, preservatives, specialty
aesthetic modifiers.
actives and plant based surfactants.
Agrana Starch offers modified and native
These ingredients include the
rice, corn and tapioca starches, which
Linatural, Lintelligence, Lincoserve and
can be used in emulsions, decorative
Lincocide ranges.
cosmetics, talc and powders, dry and
The Linatural Ultra line of all natural
liquid shampoos and conditioners, as well
ingredients is designed to bring
as deodorants.
multifunctional benefits, such as emolliency
Instead of the classic dry shampoo
and moisturisation, to personal care
powder spray, Agrana Starch launched
formulations at any pH. In addition to
a dry shampoo mousse formulation in an
their functionality, Linatural Ultra products
aerosol format at in-cosmetics Global 2018.
protect formulations from microbial
The company used its aerosol grade rice
contamination. Linatural MBS products
starch, which contributes to good foam
are Ethylhexylglycerin and/or Potassium
stability, excellent hair cleansing with a
Sorbate or Benzoic Acid blends for an
conditioning effect and eliminates the
ultra mild, alternative approach to
need to blow dry.
conventional preservatives.
Henry Lamotte Oils
blocking systems have great water
This leading supplier of oils, fats, waxes and
solubility for high water content and low
related specialities is based in Germany
pH formulations. They are perfect for clear
and has been in operation for more than
baby shampoos, facial cleansers, wipes,
90 years. Henry Lamotte Oils’ products are
sensitive skin products and body washes.
used in the food, cosmetics, pharma and
Linatural MBS-1 in baby shampoo had a
veterinary industries.
HET-CAM (eye irritation potential) score of
These naturally derived microbial
The company has in-house production facilities ranging from pressing to
0.25 compared to an industry standard baby shampoo, which scored 1.75.
bottling, it offers complete traceability and documentation and
A strong and sustainable brand
all products are subject
Delivering products and services is not the
to internal and external
only focus of Protea. ‘Creating a better
analyses. The company can
world’ has become both an immediate
also produce customer-
and long term prospect for the company
specific formulas and recipes. Some of the products on offer from Henry Lamotte Oils are aloe vera,
PROTEA CHEMICALS BY NUMBERS
and Omnia Group in general. Sustainability and reduced environmental impact have become a primary area of investment for Omnia with the recent acquisition of Oro Agri (March). Oro Agri produces the patented AgriBio products of bio-
• originated in the • more than
early 1970s
800 employees
• around
18 000 transactions
per month
130 distribution vehicles
• delivering products in varying pack sizes from bulk to small • more than
50 000m2
warehouse capacity with room to grow
level 3 BEE contributor
•
ISO 9001, ISO 14 000, OHSAS 18 000
•
and SQAS accredited.
2017, which now forms part of the chemicals business within Protea. Umongo is based in KwaZulu-Natal Umongo and a leading distributor of additives, base oils and other related petroleum, oil and lubricant products in South Africa and sub-Saharan Africa. The addition of a bulk volume base oil, additive and lubricant business to Protea has already broadened the company’s product offering and creates new opportunities to grow the business locally and beyond the South African border. With its strong global growth strategy, focus on value creation, improved basket of speciality chemicals, active industry participation and strengthened brand message, Protea continues to prove it really is ‘more than just a chemical supplier’. •
pesticides, bio-stimulants and bio-fertilizers. These are all eco-friendly alternatives for crop protection, enhancement and nutrition which eliminate the use traditional chemicals. Omnia also acquired 90 percent of Umongo Petroleum (Umongo) in December
Omnia – www.omnia.co.za Protea Chemicals – www.proteachemicals.co.za
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
15
REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING
Towards a more regulated cosmetics industry
data on any animal testing performed by the manufacturer, his agents or suppliers,
After 24 years of self-regulation, with the majority of companies in the cosmetics industry following the CTFA Compendium, legislation is now on the cards governed by the DoH.
O
relating to the development or safety assessment of the cosmetics products or its ingredients. Post-marketing surveillance is required in the event of undesirable and serious undesirable events and a process must be in place to handle these.
n 19 August 2016, the
it’s important the industry is aware of the
Department of Health (DoH)
timelines it will be afforded to comply with
of such regulation is dependent on the
draft regulations relating to
the regulations. The CTFA and industry
current compliance of each company,’
the Advertising, Labelling and
working group have proposed a transitional
Pimentel adds. ‘The industry is an overall
Composition of Cosmetics were published
period of at least two to three years for total
compliant and ethical one and has always
in the Government Notice No. 40216.
compliance to ensure business continuity,
been a proponent of strict considerations
especially for the small and medium
for consumer safety, which the regulations
sized companies.
further accentuate.’
To ensure the comments submitted to DoH were a true reflection of what the industry needs to survive and thrive within
‘The impact on the cosmetics industry
Most companies use the CTFA
a legislative environment, the Cosmetic
Compendium and available standards
A powerful voice
Toiletry & Fragrance Association (CTFA)
as the premise for compliance so the
Because the South African cosmetics
worked together with a dedicated group of
transition from self-regulation to regulation
industry is dynamic, continuous
member companies to collate comments
should be ‘business as usual’, yet the
engagement with DoH is crucial to ensure
of the draft regulations. Many of these
additional areas of compliance are likely to
the regulations and required updates are
comments were adopted by DoH and
have an impact.
looked at timeously and don’t hinder the
published in a re-draft of the regulations
future success of the industry. Pimentel says
on 22 December 2017, in Government
Additional obligations
the CTFA will continue to lobby and interact
Notice R1469.
Once the regulations are promulgated, a
with DoH to ensure continuity.
The transition from selfregulation to regulation should be ‘business as usual’, yet additional areas of compliance are likely to have an impact
Responsible Person, safety assessments,
‘The re-draft mirrored the needs of the
80 percent of cosmetics companies in
post-marketing surveillance will become
South Africa. The CTFA and its members
additional legal obligations for brand
welcome the proposal of these regulations.
owners and manufacturers.
They are seen as a positive step towards
The Responsible Person is defined as ‘a
regulatory system for cosmetics and the
importer or distributor) responsible for
continued development of safe, innovative
making the product available on the
and efficacious products.
market’. The Responsible Person must
host a public workshop. The date for this
product made available on the market, as
event still needs to be confirmed. •
per the provision in the regulation. The cosmetics product must have undergone a safety assessment of the finished product and its ingredients. The cosmetic safety assessment must be carried out by an
manner,’ says Adelia Pimentel, CTFA’s
person’. Pimentel
executive director. ‘However, some areas
says a toxicologist
of concern were still evident and further
is not required at
comments were submitted in March 2018 in
this stage. A detailed PIF with specific
compliance period is stipulated as
contents will
immediate. This is included in the specified
be required.
commencement procedures provided in
This document will
the proposed regulation. Pimentel says
need to include any
16
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
Before promulgation occurs, the DoH will
ensure compliance of the cosmetics
‘appropriately trained
One of the areas of concern is that
international compatibility of the local
natural or juristic person (manufacturer,
cosmetics industry in a more manageable
response to the redraft.’
The association represents over
the Product Information File (PIF) and
CTFA – www.ctfa.co.za
REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING
safe for use?
Are your products
The safety assessment is an essential requirement of the EU and most other globally relevant cosmetics regulations. The Regulatory Company has extensive expertise in conducting safety assessments for the EU and other international markets.
A
mandatory part of the product
During the assessment, the assessor
dossier, the safety assessment
must consider the following:
report must be made available
• the general toxicological profile of the
to authorities in the country of
sale for inspection on their request. The assessment must be conducted by a ‘competent or qualified safety assessor’, which is a qualified expert holding at least a university degree in toxicology or equivalent health studies. A copy of the
single ingredients used • their chemical structure, reactivity and interaction with other ingredients
The following data is required as minimum input for an appropriate safety assessment: • ingredients information, including technical
• their purity and presence of potentially hazardous contaminants or additives • the level of exposure under reasonably foreseeable conditions of use.
data sheets, safety data sheets and certificates of analysis for each ingredient • toxicological profile of individual substances • product specifications
assessor’s qualifications must also be included in the dossier and/or mentioned
A legal obligation
in the safety report.
The safety assessor and the responsible
The report for a cosmetics product must
NECESSARY DATA
• microbiological quality and stability
person are both legally liable for the
be prepared according to the requirements
health effects of the cosmetics product
defined in the cosmetic regulations and
under their responsibility. It is important
their respective guidelines (e.g. in EU it
to ensure the data used for the safety
is Annex I of the Reg. 1223/2009 and the
assessment is reliable, detailed and of a
corresponding Guideline).
good quality.
• impurities, traces and information on packaging material • use description (for reasonably foreseeable use). Based on the assessment, the
To ensure the high level of data quality
assessor then creates the report, which
required for the safety assessment,
should be included in the product
there are different detailed instructions,
dossier. If the outcome of the safety
checklists and tools that can be used.
assessment raises any health concerns
Once the input data-set is complete, the
or additional questions, the assessor
safety assessor performs the assessment
should inform the manufacturer and
and calculates the exposure (exposure
propose possible solutions. These
tools: ConsExpo, RiskOfDerm and SCCS
include pursuing additional data from
notes) and the margins of safety based
suppliers, performing additional tests,
on toxicological thresholds for individual
formulation changes and the adaption
substances. These can be retrieved from
of labels and/or claims. •
acknowledged databases or publications such as CIR, ToxLine, ToxRefDB, ATSDR, ESIS, IPCS-INCHEM, PubMed and SCCS opinions.
The Regulatory Company – www.theregulatorycompany.com
Actively making a change Supplier of Actives and Technical Services to the Cosmetic Industry Our Services include: Supplier for:
• Stability Testing • Formulation • Quality assurance • Dossier presentation for most markets in the world • Full cosmetic regulatory services
CONTACT Robyn Brown Tel +27 (0)11 425 2206 | Fax +27 (0)86 520 4585 | Cell +27 (0)814476236 / +27 (0)815456857 info@botanichem.co.za | www.botanichem.co.za Botanichem 1/4.indd 1
2018/07/26 15:57
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
17
REGULATIONS, LEGISLATION & TESTING
How do the draft regulations
affect your product claims? Section 9(1) of the draft regulations for the South African Cosmetics, Foodstuffs and Disinfectant Act contains proposals for product claims. Prof Beverley Summers looks at the likely impact and how the Photobiology Laboratory can assist with compliance.
T
he draft regulations state (in sub-
available in South Africa. Most studies are
section b) ‘claims in respect of the
conducted under existing protocols, but
labelling, weighing, pre-packing into
effects and quality of the cosmetic
the laboratory will design purpose-built
smaller containers and application
are prohibited, unless scientifically
studies and apply for individual protocols, if
substantiated’ and (c) ‘the words
required.
“clinically proven” are prohibited, unless
• handling of products (randomisation,
checks) where appropriate • study sundries (e.g. batteries, gloves,
Existing protocols include tests for:
scientifically substantiated’. Unless claims
• SPF in vivo and UVA in vitro
can be supported by product content and
• irritancy patch
documented references to that content,
• moisturiser efficacy (including anti- wrinkle)
the product must undergo clinical tests,
• pigmentation
which support the marketing claims.
•a nti-dandruff and other hair product tests
Although the Photobiology Laboratory
moisturisers, soaps, shampoos, towels and applicators) • study administration and assessment time, taking study samples, labelling and packaging • photography, sorting and labelling
• anti-acne
images, and provision of CD records
at the School of Pharmacy was first
• pseudofolliculitis
• adverse event reporting
established specifically to provide
• ophthalmic irritancy.
local industry with a reliable option for
Close liaison with clients is essential for
Sun Protection Factor (SPF) tests, it has
reliable and robust data generation. Studies
expanded to provide reliable, affordable
vary in cost, which depends on the sample
local testing of cosmetics products. This
size, study duration, number and frequency
• a detailed written report.
includes a wide range of clinical and
of assessments required. The construction of
Ultimately, claim substantiation is a crucial
instrumental tests for cosmetics product
a study includes attention to a wide range
part of ensuring product performance,
safety and efficacy claim substantiation.
of aspects, such as:
safety and consumer satisfaction. •
(where necessary) • data collection, entry, proof-reading, graphical representation and statistical analysis
• liaison with the client (which is critical)
Scientific and advanced
• protocol development or adaptation and
The laboratory is versatile in its offerings.
tailoring of individual study paperwork,
Work is conducted for entities, which
plus printing
range from local one-person companies
• panellist recruitment, briefing, completion
to most major multinationals. Every study is
of forms, screening panellists, screening
important – regardless of company size. The
completed forms for compliance with
laboratory has a wide range of equipment
inclusion and exclusion criteria and
– some of which is the only example
payment of panellists
ABOUT Prof Beverley Summers (B Pharm, MSc(Med), PhD) is a registered pharmacist in South Africa and the UK. She heads up the Photobiology Laboratory at Sefako Makgatho Health Science University (previously MEDUNSA, now SMU).
M&L LABORATORY SERVICES Pharmaceutical and Healthcare testing
ISO 17025 accredited
M&L Laboratory services provides clients with an extensive array of analytical capabilities.
Endorsed by the World Health organisation (WHO)
Services: • Stability storage • Disinfecting efficacy • Post importation testing • Full pharmacopeia testing • Dissolution • Method development • Microbiological analysis
Tel: +27 11 661 7914/7900/7931 | Mob: +27 81 399 9737 | Email: peter.moopeloa@za.bureauveritas.com
18
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
Medicines Control council (MCC)
SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES
Invested in helping staff help others There is a strong and measurable connection between CSR programmes and employee engagement. Carst & Walker knows this from its ongoing CSR initiatives, which have improved its bottom line during tough economic times. By Abby Vorster
C
arst & Walker is authentic in its efforts
programme the “299”, as those who are taking
to improve society. The company’s
part in both the Johannesburg and Cape
corporate social responsibility (CSR)
Town events will essentially cycle 299km for a
programme started many years ago,
purpose far greater than their own personal
but really gained momentum three years ago, leverage the existing strengths of its employees all
A greater reward
over the world.
Refilwe Community Project and Boucher House are
A global business with offices in east and
the main beneficiaries of the Hobart Enterprises
west Africa, Australia and South Africa, Carst &
Charity Trust. Apart from the cycle challenge
Walker forms part of holding company, Hobart
fundraising efforts, Carst & Walker also hosts golf
Enterprises. The Hobart Enterprises Charity
days and makes regular material or financial
Trust is an employee driven initiative that aims
donations in support of these charities.
to integrate the concept of charity in a
‘Last year, we placed a teacher’s assistant
meaningful and personal way. It caters
at Refilwe and continue to fund her
to the physical and emotional needs of Hobart Enterprises and Carst & Walker employees, by empowering them to help others less fortunate than themselves. Mark Hele from Hobart Enterprises explains: ‘The fund supports a variety of affiliated charities and encourages the efforts of employees who are
DID YOU KNOW? Nelson Mandela International Day
income. We also provided Refilwe with the services of a videographer to document and create content
that could be used to market the 2018 marked 100 years since the birth of Mandela on 18 July 1918. The Centenary charity project,’ Hele comments. provided an occasion to follow his call to ‘Through the Trust, Hobart ‘make the world a better place’. The Nelson Mandela Foundation dedicated this year’s Enterprises purchased a new Mandela Day to Action Against Poverty, home for Boucher House earlier honouring Mandela’s devotion to fight poverty and promote this year and we help them with social justice for all. ongoing funding.’
passionate about fundraising. The cycle challenge has given us a great platform to bring
Education is a primary focal point at Refilwe Community Project
goals,’ he adds.
using the 947 Cycle Challenge as a platform to
Carst & Walker has charity golf days taking place on 20 September in Johannesburg
Hobart Enterprises’ employees together from all
at Eagle Canyon Golf & Lifestyle Estate and on
over the world, get them onto bikes and create a
27 September at the Rondebosch Golf Club in
spirit of giving.’
Cape Town. Suppliers and customers are invited to
This year, the CSR focus has grown beyond
take part in these events by booking a four ball to
the 947 Cycle Challenge to include the Double
become part of the company’s movement to ‘be
Century road cycling race, which takes place
change they want to see in the world’.
in Cape Town. ‘Staff have tagged our 2018 CSR
Apart from making a sustainable contribution to uplifting communities and individuals less fortunate than themselves, employees of Carst & Walker and Hobart Enterprises gain significant value from their efforts. ‘There is nothing more rewarding than seeing the personal pride in employees who are driven to help people in need,’ says Hele, ‘this is in addition to the fellowship that develops around golf days, cycle challenges and other charity events which is noteworthy from an HR point of view. Our employees live these values as an active part of the business and it’s proven to continually make a positive contribution to our bottom line.’ •
Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za Hobart Enterprises Charity Trust – www.hobartenterprisescharitytrust.com
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
19
SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES
Natural alternative to synthetic surfactants
Kaneka Corporation’s pioneering product, Kaneka Surfactin is an anionic biosurfactant with promising benefits for personal care applications. Its high biodegradability helps manufacturers meet consumer demand for environmentally friendly formulations developed using natural ingredients.
C
Powerful emulsifier In a technical paper entitled Unique Properties of Biosurfactant Kaneka Surfactin and its Potential Applications, Chencan Ouyang, Satohiro Yanagisawa and Takuto Nagano of Kaneka Corporation’s new business development division, discussed the structure of Surfactin and its technical and formulation capabilities.
hanges in consumer preferences
Its structure is unique compared to other
have an impact on the personal care
surfactants. Kaneka Surfactin has a heptapeptide
industry and drive innovation among
head group interlinked with a ß-hydroxy fatty acid.
ingredient manufacturers. One of the
Due to its unique cyclic peptide structure, Surfactin
biggest consumer movements is the trend towards environmentally friendly products formulated with simple, natural ingredients derived from renewable resources. On the manufacturing
shows excellent surface and self-assembling properties. It exhibits a dominantly low critical micelle concentration (CMC) value of 0.0003 wt percent. When used as a co-surfactant, Surfactin also
side, cold process and biodegradable
dramatically reduces the CMCs of some other
ingredients are more in demand than ever.
typically used surfactants such as liner alkylbenzene
Kaneka Surfactin (INCI: Sodium Surfactin) ticks all of these boxes. This biosurfactant is
sulfonate or LAS and sodium dodecyl sulphate or SDS.
produced in Japan by natural fermentation
Its uniqueness and technical capabilities make
of a harmless microorganism, Bacillus subtilis.
Surfactin ideal for creating D-phase emulsions using
This sustainable product is commercially available in South Africa from Acacia
a cold process with low mechanical force. D-phase is the emulsification technique used to produce fine
Specialty Chemicals.
O/W emulsions, which are extremely stable and have
Surfactin is proven to be much milder than other
a large percentage of oil. Despite the high oil load,
typical surfactants and in a biodegradation test it
they remain thin and smooth with an average oil
biodegraded almost completely within a week.
droplet size of one micron. D-phase emulsions, because of their capability to incorporate both water and oil, are gaining ground
Figure 1: Primary skin irritation test results
in the personal care industry. Yet this formulation process can be limiting because it’s complicated
Primary Irritation Index (P.I.I.)
8 6
and requires substantial use of specific non-ionic
Anionic Emulsifiers
2.5% 5.0% 10% 20%
surfactants, resulting in a heavy skin feel. Kaneka’s
6.84
6.17
premixed oil gel (POG) provides a solution to the existing problem. The newly developed POG is a bicontinuous phase system formed using glycerine, oil and a very small amount of Surfactin. Compared to a
4.83
D-phase emulsion developed with around 10 percent non-ionic surfactants in the final formulation, POG allows for a minimal inclusion level of Surfactin at
4
around 0.5 to one percent. The key to this low dosage is its ability to form hydrogen bonds between its
1.58
2
peptide hydrophilic moieties. While it simplifies the D-phase formulation process,
0.29
0
POG serves as a stable base for emulsion with a minute particle size of one micron. This permits
KANEKA Surfactin
Sodium lauroyl Glutamate
SDS
a high percentage of oil in the formulation while keeping the viscosity low to give a unique light touch on skin while maintaining high moisturising properties. For example, in a milky lotion formulation
20
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES containing 20 percent oil, POG is included at
surfactant. Figure 1 shows the primary skin irritation test
around 12 percent, so the final concentration of surfactant is merely 0.2 percent. An innovative premix such as POG, not only lowers the difficulty of D-phase formulation but also makes the process of fine particle emulsification easier than ever.
Irritation reduction This desire for mild products is not only
results of Kaneka Surfactin compare to SDS and sodium
DID YOU KNOW?
lauroyl glutamate. Usually considered mild, sodium lauroyl glutamate is often used in facial cleansers yet the irritation level of Sufactin is
Kaneka Surfactin is safe, has an anti-inflammatory effect and is a 100 percent green ingredient certified by Ecocert and the COSMOS standard.
limited to baby care but also spans skin
significantly lower than this surfactant and SDS. At below 2.5 wt percent, no skin irritation was observed for Kaneka Surfactin. Kaneka Surfactin also helps to reduce irritation
caused by other surfactants.
and hair care. This is a result of the increased
This was proven using a 3D skin
awareness of synthetic chemicals in cosmetics
model to measure cell survival rate
and toiletries and their perceived negative
after being treated with a surfactant
effects on the environment and human health.
solution. While a 0.3 wt percent
This trend is propelling natural ingredients into
Alkyl Ether Sulfate solution caused
a new and innovative space, making them
the death of a third of the skin cells,
a far more favourable option for consumer
introducing 0.1 to one wt percent of
desirable products.
Surfactin into the system decreased
Sensitive skin claims are also on the rise as
cytotoxicity. The result shows that despite
a result of overexposure to harsh chemicals
being an anionic surfactant, Kaneka Surfactin is
and environmental aggressors. Subsequently,
comparable to, if not better than, non-ionic surfactants
ingredients like Kaneka Surfactin, which is proven
when it comes to skin irritation. •
to prevent skin irritation or mitigate it entirely, have become more favourable to formulators. Despite its high surface activity and strong
Acacia Speciality Chemicals – www.acaciachem.com Kaneka Corporation – www.kaneka.co.jp/en
emulsifying ability, Surfactin is an extremely mild
Peptide ring consists of 7 amino acids
The Power of D-Phase KANEKA Surfactin is your solution to create D-phase emulsions, a bi continuous phase that incorporates both oil and water, using a very small dosage. The D-phase Kaneka Surfactin can be used to formulate makeup remover, an emulsion with highly refined oil droplets and many other skincare products. *D-phase refers to the phase that consists of surfactin, polyol.
Suitable applications: • Make-up remover • Skin care • Sun care • Baby care • Micellar water • Wet wipes • Hand sanitisers
Contact: T. 011 965 1508 | C. 0794085651 Email: clive@acaciachem.com
Acacia/Kaneka.indd 1
2018/07/26 09:01
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
21
SUSTAINABLE PRACTICES
The world’s
most sustainable palm oil
A company established in Peninsular Malaysia and a member of the RSPO, ExcelVite is committed to upholding the codes of conduct of the palm oil industry. Customers can rest assured the production process of all ExcelVite’s products do not harm the environment.
ExcelVite’s continuous
T
efforts to uphold
oil produced in Peninsular Malaysia
sustainable practices. It
as growers in the region observe
also shows the company’s
sustainable plantation practices.
ORANGUTAN FRIENDLY THIS LOGO REPRESENTS
commitment to protect the environment and Malaysia’s precious wildlife. ExcelVite is dedicated to providing the best wildlife friendly palm oil based products to its customers.
here are three primary palm oil
supply chain for palm oil. It focuses on promoting
producing regions in the world –
the growth and use of sustainable palm oil
Peninsular Malaysia, Borneo and
products through credible global standards and
Indonesia. According to ExcelVite,
stakeholder engagement.
there is no sustainability issue with palm
The company’s red palm oil or dietary supplements made with ExcelVite’s phytonutrient extracts from virgin crude palm oil sourced within Peninsular Malaysia do not come from trees grown on new plantations
Operating an integrated plant to
DID YOU KNOW?
commercially extract and produce constituents of palm oil through its
Palm oil has been instrumental in helping alleviate poverty in Malaysia and is the backbone of the country’s economic and social development. Over the past five years, it has contributed over €6.3 billion to the Malaysian economy.
or plantations that have resulted in deforestation, which are more prevalent in
proprietary technology, ExcelVite’s products include palm vitamin E, palm carotene as well as palm methyl ester and crude glycerine, which are used to manufacture dietary supplements, pharmaceutical and oleo-chemical and bio-diesel products.
RSPO has developed a set of environmental and social criteria, which
Borneo and Indonesia. Represented in South
companies must comply with in order to produce
Africa by Enna Industrial Ingredients, ExcelVite
Certified Sustainable Palm Oil. When the criteria
assures customers the land it cultivates is legally
are applied properly, they can help minimise
designated agricultural land.
the negative impact of palm oil cultivation on the environment and communities in palm oil
Making sustainable the norm
producing regions.
The Roundtable on Sustainable
worldwide which represent all links along the
Palm Oil (RSPO) is a non-profit
palm oil supply chain. They have committed to
association created by organisations
produce, source and/or use sustainable palm oil
and companies carrying out their
certified by the RSPO. •
The RSPO has more than 3 000 members
activities in and around the entire The Malaysian palm oil industry provides direct employment to more than 500 000 people
22
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
Enna Industrial Ingredients – www.ennaii.co.za ExcelVite – www.excelvite.com
At H&R we pride ourselves on being a truly sustainable company that focuses on waste reduction by transforming residues typically produced in the traditional oil refinery into new high purity products, thereby bringing appealing solutions to the markets we serve. We work closely with customers to offer customized solutions suitable for their needs. We are further working to extend our traditional mineral based product range also with synthetic and “green� options to ensure we offer customers the solution required. H&R is a proud major global supplier of top quality petroleum jelly, an essential ingredient used in the personal care, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. H&R offers both white and yellow product variations of petroleum jelly to these industries. H&R offers a variety of bases for the production of cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsion and ointments. H&R also offers a wide range of technical and medicinal white oils and waxes to suit a wide area of application. Contact us to find out how our products can fit your application.
113 Trindad Road, Island View, Durban 4052, South Africa Tel: +27 (0)31 466 8700, Fax: +27 (0)31 466 8716 E-mail: SASales@hur.com
www.hur.com
HAIR CARE
Transform hair from within
Even on a busy day, consumers want to look great and be camera ready. With less time to spend on beauty routines, consumers are looking for innovative ways to achieve and maintain beautiful hair.
L
ubrizol conducted a global study on 1 000 women, aged between 18
Blank
Non encapsulated active
Encapsulated active
and 64, with slight to medium curly hair. The study revealed 61 percent
of women like frizz-free products, 59 percent need to moisturise dry hair, 50 percent want to restore overall hair health and 43 percent desire to prevent split ends. Other concerns mentioned were manageability improvement, shine, heat protection, volume and anti-ageing. Flat irons and straightening techniques
Figure 1
can damage hair’s outer layer and internal
two-component technology (Fixate Keratin
structure over time. Ultimately, this damage
Activator and Fixate Keratin Re-constructor).
will cause dullness and hair breakage.
The technology reconstructs hair from
In addition to having the same
within, enabling long term manageability
preferences as consumers with slight
and enhancing hair’s smoothness, frizz
to medium curly hair, consumers
control, softness and shine.
with excessively curly hair seek curl
The penetration of the unique ingredients
manageability and the reduction of
deep into the cortex is reinforced by
damage caused by chemicals and heat.
a patented/exclusive encapsulation
Natural hair is a major trend this year
technology (NPET – novel penetration
with more consumers embracing their
and encapsulation technology)
natural hair styles or incorporating low
inspired by skin care delivery and
maintenance solutions into their everyday
encapsulation mechanisms.
routine. With chemical-free hair care, the
NPET is based on coacervated lipidic
desire for healthy hair and new methods
nanocapsules. This delivery system was
of achieving straight hairstyles, traditional
designed by Lipotec and has been
relaxers are rendered unnecessary for many
proven to convey the high penetration
textured hair consumers.
of encapsulated actives into the hair cortex and to promote good hair
A professional solution
cuticle deposition.
than 10 washes. The best straightening performance was observed on wavy or slightly curly hair. For curlier hair, a Fixate Keratin treatment brings manageability and frizz control. Complementary in vitro evaluations of the cuticle and cortex with scanning electronic microscopy and a hair tensile tester show Fixate Keratin does not significantly affect the hair structure. Fixate Keratin is the #lastingshot your hair needs to look perfect. For complete application instructions, formulation details and sample requests, send an e-mail to Fixatekeratin@lubrizol.com or visit Go.Lubrizol.com/FixateKeratin. •
Carst & Walker – www.carst.co.za
FOUR STEPS
for hair care professionals which improves
to examine the system’s efficacy and
TO BEAUTIFUL HAIR
manageability and reduces frizz without
prove the active ingredients are actually
FOR A FULL salon experience, Fixate Keratin
damaging the hair. Fixate Keratin is a
penetrating the cortex. Capsules containing
can be integrated into of a four step routine that
semi-finished product intended to speed
two different fluorophores were prepared to
includes a pre and post treatment shampoo
up trendsetting launches in hair salons.
visualise the structure of the delivery system
and conditioner.
The South African agent for Lubrizol is Carst
and the location of the active, with the help
1. L ow pH activating shampoo – this
& Walker.
of a confocal microscope. The results show
With Fixate Keratin, Lubrizol offers a solution
Fixate Keratin is a thermal activated non-formaldehyde and non-glyoxylic acid
Lubrizol conducted fluorescence tests
a high level of fluorescence is detected for NPET inside the cortex (see Figure 1).
revolutionary low pH system unlocks keratin to prepare and protect the hair cuticle. 2. F ixate Keratin Activator and Fixate Keratin Reconstructor FF transform hair into a smooth,
Safe and efficient Using non-formaldehyde and non-glyoxylic acid chemistry, the low odour and low
cleanses and moisturises hair. It also
fume profile of Fixate Keratin make it a
improves wet combing, feel and detangling
safer alternative when compared to other products on the market. The technology has been validated
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
after treatment. 4. Luxurious Restorative Moisturising Conditioner nourishes hair after shampoo
by salon tests on different hair types of
and enhances hair alignment. It leaves hair
more than 60 models. The results show
soft, easy to detangle, moisturised and shiny.
the effects of Fixate Keratin last for more
24
silky, shiny and de-frizzed style. 3. Hydra Replenishing Moisturising Shampoo
HAIR CARE
Your sulphate-free formulation challenges solved
S
ulphate-free cleansing products
free formulating. Akypo Foam LM25 (INCI:
Akypo Foam LM25 reduces the irritation
are a major talking point in the
Potassium Laureth-4 Carboxylate) from Kao
potential and improves the foam quality
personal care industry. In the hair
Chemicals (Kao) delivers all the properties
of a formulation. Its viscosity behaviour is
care category, there is no lack of
required for high performance sulphate-
similar to SLES and can easily be improved
products with sulphate-free claims, even
free cleansing products with the additional
with salt.
though they are difficult to formulate.
benefit of proven mildness.
Sulphate-free formulations are costlier.
Akypo Foam LM25 is ideal for products specially formulated to be mild and non-
It’s challenging to achieve good foam
Gentle on skin
irritating, such as baby care products or
consistency with most sulphate-free anionic
Kao, represented in South Africa by CIM
those for sensitive skin. The results of a
surfactants on the market, so formulators
Chemicals, designed this product to
Zein test on a range of surfactants classed
generally combine three or four surfactants
achieve luxurious foam with micro-sized
Akypo Foam LM25 as ‘non-irritant’ while SLS
to achieve superior foam volume, which
bubbles and high foam consistency.
was rated ‘irritant II’ and SLES ‘moderately
increases formulation costs. They also have
When used as a secondary surfactant,
irritant’. Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB)
to compromise on performance when
and Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
developing these systems.
(CADA) were also classed as ‘non-
With conventional sulphate-free anionic surfactants, a rheology modifier is needed
irritant’. Yet Akypo Foam LM25 was ranked significantly less than CAPB and CADA. •
to improve formulation viscosity, further impacting costs. The good news is, there is a new anionic surfactant on the market which solves all the challenges associated with sulphate-
CIM – www.cim.co.za Kao Chemicals – www.chemical.kao.com
Choose AKYPO surfactants for mild cleansing and sulphate-free shampoo formulations! The benefits are endless: • vegetable derived fatty alcohols • proven mildness to skin and eyes • good eco-toxicity properties • excellent compatibility with all kinds of surfactants • high foaming properties • boosting effect on the performance of polymers/conditioning agents.
Brad: 060 583 5324 www.cim.co.za
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
25
HAIR CARE
Eco-friendly silicone fluids Wacker’s new Belsil eco products have the same properties as silicone fluids made with petroleumderived raw materials, yet their carbon balance is more favourable. There are six silicone fluids in this range.
B
favourable than petroleumbased silicone fluids. Wacker uses both petroleum-derived methanol and biomethanol. A certified
elsil eco products are
conventional silicone fluids with their
mass balance
linear, unmodified
corresponding Belsil eco products.
procedure helps
polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), distinguished
‘The demand for cosmetics made from eco-friendly raw materials
the share of products
by their low surface tension and
continues to rise,’ says Dr Robert
good spreading properties. These
Gnann, president of Wacker
products cover a crucial viscosity
Silicones. ‘With our new
range in cosmetics between five and
product line, we are in an
60 000 centistokes (mm2/s). They
excellent position to meet
are suitable for use in shampoos,
this demand. For Belsil
conditioners, moisturising creams, lotions
eco, we use certified bio-
and sunscreens.
methanol produced from
For every Belsil eco product, a silicone fluid, based on petroleum-derived
plant residue such as straw
calculate and determine sourced from bio-methanol.
DID YOU KNOW?
As a result, Wacker can ensure all Belsil eco products are manufactured from 100 percent plant-based
According to Wacker’s calculations, every metric ton of bio-based silicone fluid saves around 1.6 metric tons of carbon dioxide.
or grass cuttings.’
methanol, also exists. Both products
resources, making them resource saving raw materials. The procedure is certified according to the TÜV SÜD Standard CMS
71 and checked annually by
have the same raw material base from a
Certified sustainable
chemistry perspective which eliminates
Bio-methanol is made from renewable
the need for technical modifications or
raw materials, so the carbon balance
formulation adjustments when replacing
of Belsil eco products is more
external evaluators. •
Wacker – www.wacker.com
CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS
A CLEAN LOOK AND PURE CARE: TRANSPARENCY IN HAIR COSMETICS
Consumers demand pure products, presented in a pure way, and the hallmark of pure care is transparency. BELSIL® silicone solutions give shampoo special effects that provide hair with a natural healthy shine. Strong conditioners lend hair a light appearance while multi-effect sprays make hair care easier, providing superior combability and faster drying. Enriched with an anti-frizz oil for a strong anti-frizz action, hair regains a soft touch. A heat-protection mist allows high-temperature styling and completes the hair-care line. For more information, visit www.wacker.com/transparency
26
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
Your official distributor in South Africa
GRANREPAIR POWERBOND GRANREPAIR POWERBOND its an innovative next generation bond technology. · Prevents damage and repairs hair integrity from chemical salon processes · Protects the bonds from initial breakage as well as repairs broken bonds · Noticeably softens and smooths hair texture · Adds shine and luster to hair appearance · Ease of combing ability (both for wet and dry) · Improved hair color intensity www.grantinc.com
HAIR CARE
Protect the bonds Granrepair PowerBond is a unique bond technology. It was developed by Grant Industries to protect and repair hair without interfering with the chemical process of bleaching or colouring.
T
he structural integrity
keratin (7.6 and 2.9 percent respectively). The increased
of hair is provided
composition of cysteine residues in hair potentially leads
and maintained by
to a higher amount of disulphide linkages. Inter- and intra-
its specific chemical
molecular disulphide bonds are formed by the covalent
composition. Hair is primarily composed of proteins, lipids
linkage of two sulfhydryl residues of two amino acids. Lipids in the internal part of the hair provide structural
and water. Human hair is made
reinforcement and rigidity. Water is another major component
up of 65 to 95 percent protein,
of hair, up to 32 percent by weight. Water supports the
which determines its texture – be
formation of strong hydrogen bonds with proteins, influencing
it curly, wavy, kinky or straight. Keratin proteins in hair are
the tensile strength, swelling, flexibility and shape of hair, as well as the formation of salt bridges.
complex natural compounds that contribute to its physiochemical properties. Human hair keratin is unique because of its high cysteine residue content when compared to skin
Innovative silicone polymer There is a need for a product designed to improve hair’s integrity during bleaching and colouring.1 These chemical processes affect the hair’s physical, mechanical and surface properties, resulting in it being typically dry, frizzy, difficult to style and easily broken. During chemical treatments, most of the hydrophobic lipids are stripped from the hair’s surface. Because hair lacks regenerative properties, it is important to introduce a bond technology during bleaching and colouring which enhances and maintains hair’s structural integrity. Granrepair PowerBond is a microemulsion (INCI: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Bis-PCA Dimethicone (and) Disodium PEG-12 Dimethicone Sulfosuccinate (and) Aminomethyl Propanol). It was designed with distinctive properties to reinforce protein bonds and restore hair fibre integrity without interfering with the bleaching or colouring
HAIRFLUX
®
treatment. Its active component is Bis-PCA dimethicone. This is a bis-functionalised silicone polymer with Pyrrolidone
The extraordinary hair and scalp care revolution
Carboxylic Acid (PCA). Grant Industries’ products are available locally from IMCD
We have designed the best in class active for the care of both hair and scalp. With the masterful combination of the well-known strength of Ceramides and the power of olives we created Hairflux® – bio-inspired, multifunctional and highly effective. • Reduces the inflammatory capacity • Improves the appearance of sensitive scalp • Repairs damages of bleached hair • Increases resistance of straightened hair
South Africa.
Harmonious technology Hair bleaching permanently decolours hair by oxidising melanin in the cortex of the hair. The bleaching process is often highly alkaline (pH nine to 13), resulting in the dramatic degradation of hair’s structural integrity over repeated cycles.2,3 Granrepair PowerBond has been formulated to provide aqueous compatibility with bleaching and colour systems to ensure the efficacy of these treatments. The Bis-PCA dimethicone is amphiphilic by design and formed into a
Evonik Africa (Pty) Ltd t +27 11 697 0700 IBG Business Park, Midrand, South Africa
microemulsion to ensure targeted interactions with the www.evonik.com
hair shafts. The pH of the material was developed to be highly compatible with bleaching and colouring mixtures (pH 9.0
28
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
HAIR CARE
to 9.5). This is important for an efficient
a healthier look and feel. Balanced
continuously brushed for 2 000 strokes
release of oxygen from the bleaching
moisturisation and hydrophobicity result in
with periodic counting of broken fibres.
mixture and for improved colour intensity
the improved conditioning of hair.
The quantity of hair breakage was similar
from creams dyes. Granrepair PowerBond
to the virgin hair without any post-
was found not to interfere with the
Proven results
treatment conditioners. Evidence showed
bleaching process and evidence shows
Grant Industries’ product evaluation
Granrepair PowerBond is able to preserve
it provides enhanced colour intensity
lab performed extensive ‘extreme
and protect hair fibre integrity and
and substantivity.
condition’ efficacy studies on
restore surface lubrication lost through
Grandrepair PowerBond. The studies
multiple cycles of bleaching, resulting in
and ionic bonds. Both bonds are key to
ranged from hair bleaching and anti-
reduced breakage. •
support the internal and external structure
breakage after grooming to scanning
of keratin protein. The PCA group forms
electron microscopy to assess hair’s
REFERENCES:
hydrogen bonds with hair and water,
surface integrity and evidence of the
1. Gavazzoni Dias, M. F. R. Hair Cosmetics: An Overview. Int. J.
making it advantageous because hair
penetration of the bond technology (see
needs water to remain moisturised for
Table 1).
The PCA reconstructs powerful hydrogen
The extreme condition hair bleaching Table 1
study considered hair stylists usually deal
2
6.5
from Granrepair PowerBond treatments
Granrepair PowerBond
5
2.5
were far superior to the control and other
Granrepair PowerBond
10
1.5
competitive products.
Brand #1
5
N.S.*
Brand #2
5
N.S.*
Granrepair PowerBond
virgin. Despite this, hair quality results
For the anti-breakage after grooming test, all experiments were performed after overnight equilibration of the
Penetration of Granrepair PowerBond confirmed by Drave’s Wetting Test method on cotton skein (N.S.*- no sinking)
Process. US 3816614A, August 5, 1971. 3. Edman, W. W.; Sullivan, A. T. Hydrogen Peroxide Hair Bleaching Composition and Method. US 3193464A, May 31, 1961.
with hair that is pre-damaged and not
% (wt.)
Time (minutes)
Product
Trichology 2015, 7 (1), 2–15. 2. Zeffren, E.; Knohl, R. Hair Bleaching Compositions and
hair at 60 percent relative humidity at ambient conditions. The tresses were
*This article is based on a technical paper entitled, Protective performance of a functionalised dimethicone during chemical processes by Ronald Lerum and Anna Croom from Grant Industries.
Grant Industries – www.grantinc.com IMCD South Africa – www.imcdgroup. com/worldwide/south-africa
Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz
Sensetek.indd 1
2017/03/02 11:50 AM
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
29
HAIR CARE
Ingredients
for healthy hair and scalp G With the rise in multi-step hair care, consumers are encouraged to adapt their hair routines according to individual needs and appearancerelated goals. For formulators looking to develop more sophisticated products for hair care, Millchem has a variety of solutions ideal for natural colour protection and sulphate-free shampoos. By Abby Vorster
30
lobalData predicts the hair care industry
to controlling melanin synthesis. Research shows it
in Africa and the Middle East to grow by
boosts the markers essential to protecting natural hair
3.9 percent between 2016 and 2021. The
colour, demonstrated by in vitro and ex vivo studies.
fastest growing categories are shampoo
followed by conditioner and hair colourants. The key drivers influencing hair care
In vivo and ex vivo results According to Ashland, in the anagen hair follicle,
developments are customisation, smart technology
melanin synthesis exclusively takes place in mature
and more eco-friendly products and systems. New
melanocytes located in the hair bulb. This process
offerings finding their way into consumers’ hair care
occurs within unique lysosome-related organelles
regimes include pre-shampoos, serums and pre-
called melanosomes. Melanin is then transferred to
style and after-style products.
the keratinocytes of hair cortex (PAR-2). To evaluate
A hair care regimen may even include products
pigmentation markers in vitro, Ashland used cultures
that address challenges, such as greying hair, at
of normal human epidermal melanocytes and
follicle level.
normal human keratinocytes. Chromafend was
Hair that is rich and vibrant in natural colour is
applied once a day at one percent for 48 hours.
considered a symbol of youth and beauty. Yet it can
The results were evaluated using immunofluorescent
become dull and grey as a result of stress, ageing and
staining. The evaluated markers appeared in green
exposure to external aggressors such as pollution.
fluorescence; cell nuclei are stained in blue by
Consumers generally colour their hair with temporary
DAPI. The images were quantified using Image-Pro
or permanent synthetic dyes to cover greying and
Analyzer software. Tyrosinase levels were significantly
improve natural colour, yet this often results in drier hair
higher in the cells treated with Chromafend.
that requires enhanced conditioning.
Therefore, Chromafend is associated with an
Ashland has developed a holistic solution to counteract the problem with its BiotHAIRapy biofunctional line of active ingredients. Chromafend
increased expression of all the protein markers such as TRP-1, MITF, Pmel17 and c-Kit in vitro. Tyrosinase expression was also tested ex vivo
biofunctional, a flax seed extract, is designed to
using scalp biopsies. The scalp biopsy treated
conserve melanin in the hair follicle, preserving its
with one percent Chromafend showed a higher
natural colour. It targets specific protein markers key
level of tyrosinase expression, which is associated
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
HAIR CARE
category’ close on three years ago,
formulating sulphate-free systems.
this continues to be one of the most
Stepan-Mild LSB is a versatile anionic
searched terms on BeautySouthAfrica.
surfactant blend, which can be used in
com. Because consumers want healthy
a variety of personal care applications.
looking hair, their purchasing
DID YOU KNOW?
with melanin production in
is influenced by two main trends: developments in skin care and the
Hair health and maintenance are green/natural trend. key hair care claims for consumers These trends manifest aged over 55. ‘White Hot Hair’ is in the extension and positioned to address the changing needs of ageing consumers with segmentation of hair products that embrace hair’s ageing care routines and process by strengthening and through increased brightening white and grey hair. Source: news.ininterest in ingredient
the hair bulb. The results also
cosmetics.com
showed increased melanin content
labelling, sparking the development of more clean label
This mild surfactant blend has good foam quality and viscosity building characteristics and is ideal for use for gentle cleansing products for children and babies, as well as sulphate-free cleansing products and shampoos for adults. Secondary surfactants such as Stepan-Mild LSB not only play a significant role in enhancing foam and the mildness of a shampoo, but also help protect and retain colour vibrancy in colour treated hair. Stepan-Mild LSB can be used as a mild
in the cortex of the hair follicle treated
products. As a result, sulphate-free
primary or secondary surfactant. It is
with one percent Chromafend compared
claims have become highly evident in
less irritating than lauryl and lauryl ether
to the placebo, ex vivo.
the local hair care market.
sulphates, builds high viscosity easily with
The BiotHAIRapy biofunctional line of
Anionic surfactants (particularly
active ingredients are available in South
sulphates) are the main ingredients in
Africa from Millchem.
shampoos responsible for colour fading and are perceived by consumers as a
Sulphate-free systems Although sulphate-free shampoos were ‘the next big thing in the hair care
source of skin or scalp irritation. Stepan, also a Millchem principle, offers a series of solutions for
amides and salts, and provides excellent foam stability. •
Ashland – www.ashland.com Millchem – www.millchem.co.za Stepan – www.stepan.com
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
31
HAIR CARE
Advanced
polymer portfolio for styling and shine
Acudyne hair styling polymers from The Dow Chemical Company provide outstanding hold and excellent humidity resistance. These polymers are available in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals and recommended for aerosols and pump sprays, as well as gels, mousses, styling gels and styling aids such as pomades, waxes, putties, lotions and creams.
I
f you’re looking to formulate enhanced
formulation goals (see Table 1). This
hair sprays that deliver all day hold,
portfolio promises to deliver on tailored
excellent humidity resistance and other
formulation needs. Each hair styling
important consumer benefits, look no
polymer offers a specialised benefit.
further than Dow’s affordable, go-to hair
They can be blended to bring together
styling polymers.
the benefits of the various resins into one
Acudyne 1000 and Acudyne 180 can
powerful solution.
be combined in various blend ratios and use-levels to provide tailored performance for your specific needs. This versatility helps achieve a wide range of hold levels and consumer benefits, including excellent aesthetics, humidity resistance, shine and durable hold, while retaining a natural feel. Compared to a leading aerosol hair spray, a 2:1 blend of Acudyne 1000 with Acudyne 180 delivers best in class aesthetics, excellent feel and superior humidity resistance – all at an
Dow has extensive data to demonstrate the performance of Acudyne SCP in hair gel
affordable cost. There are additional Acudyne products, which can be used to meet specific
Hair fixative technology
THE BENEFITS OF ACUDYNE SHINE • provides outstanding shine • imparts strong styling hold • resists humidity for long-lasting hold • adds shine to hair without flaking effect • offers high relative humidity resistance • reduced absorption into hair during drying • excellent shine performance in aerosols.
a PVP-based commercial gel. Hair styled with the Acudyne SCP gel was also less sticky than with the PVP-based commercial gel. Electron microscope pictures illustrate a simple hair gel with Acudyne SCP provides the smoothest coating to the hair shaft when compared to a PVP-based gel and an equivalent performance versus a
Acudyne SCP is a unique polymer
polyquat-based commercial gel. There was
that delivers a firm hold while leaving
no flaking and no detraction from shine.
hair feeling smooth and natural. This
Acudyne SCP Gel was rated better than a
polymer technology consists of a linear
commercial styling gel for:
anionic terpolymer of acrylamide,
• ease of spreading and styling
acrylamidomethyl propanesulfonic acid
• product consistency
(sodium salt) and methacrylic acid.
• wet feel
This novel anionic polymer is supplied as
• ease of combing
a pre-neutralised aqueous solution, is water
• lower coating/residue
soluble and easy to formulate into liquids,
• tackiness
mousses or gels without the need for further
• shine on hair
neutralisation. It enables a conditioned hair feel and superior humidity resistance without flaking.
• flaking • stiffness of film • body and manageability
Dow has extensive data to
• volume and fullness
demonstrate the performance
• overall appearance.
of Acudyne SCP in hair gel.
32
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
Salon tests show the fixative
Dual phase technology
polymer delivers superior wet feel
In hair styling products, there is a constant
and ease of combing versus
trade off between strong hold and all day
HAIR CARE Table 1
Trade name
INCI
Key performance benefits
Acudyne 1000
Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer
Unique dual phase technology enhances film properties to help deliver a unique combination of strong holding power and durability
Acudyne 180
Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer
Style retention with a more natural feel and ease of combing
Acudyne DHR
Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer
Dual phase technology to help deliver highly flexible hold and impart inherent shine
Acudyne LT-120
Acrylates/C1-2 Succinates/ Hydroxyacrylates Copolymer
Extremely high hold with a stiff, inflexible feel
Acudyne Shine
Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer
The highest level of shine offered in the Acudyne portfolio
Dow’s portfolio of Acudyne hair styling polymers
delivers a strong hold and all day flexible
hydroxyethylmethacrylate, and various
style because of its unique dual phase
acrylate esters. It is manufactured as an
polymer design.
emulsion in water. Upon neutralisation, it
Acudyne DHR offers the following advantages: • fi rm hold with flexible feel •e xcellent holding power for all day long styling
dissolves into water or water/alcohol to a form a clear solution. Acudyne DHR improves the durability of the hair style when stressed continuously to help deliver all-day flexible style. When
flexible style. The trade-off is amplified in
• f ast drying and excellent shine
formulated in a spray format without shine
55 percent VOC hair sprays.
• very good humidity resistance
additives, it provides a noticeable shine
• restyling capabilities.
benefit on hair. •
To deliver the targeted level of strong hold, compromises are often made in
This dual phase technology is made
natural movement (flexibility) and hair
up of a mixture of two acrylic polymers
feel. Developed specifically for high
consisting of a hard and a soft phase.
performance, 55 percent VOC aerosol
The polymers are random and linear,
sprays and pumps, Acudyne DHR
consisting of polymerised methacrylic acid,
Dow Chemical Company – www.dow.com Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
33
HAIR CARE
Proven anti-pollution solution for healthy hair SymHair Shield from Symrise is a fully substantiated repair complex based on wheat bran extract. It offers antipollution, anti-dust adhesion and hair repair benefits. Carolina Lourenco, Adelino Nakano, Marcia Paula based at Symrise’s Hair Care Centre in Brazil, and Gabriele Vielhaber (France) and Gerhard Schmaus (Germany), determined these advantages through an extensive study.
T
he air pollution index has risen over
one to ~20µm. The dust consisted mainly
followed using only the shampoos to
the past few years. Consumers
of oxides, like aluminium, sulphur, calcium,
remove excess dust from the hair surface.
strongly sense air pollution and dust
magnesium, silicon, iron and sodium.
directly affect their health and the
The forces used to comb the hair with
SymHair Shield was applied in standard
a standard comb were measured before
quality of their skin and hair. The general
bases of shampoo and conditioner at 1.0
(initial condition) and after (final condition)
expectation of hair care products is to have
percent in each. Placebo formulations were
the application of the products. The total
cleansing and detox benefits. These days
also tested.
energy of the process was calculated by
consumers also want products that provide
The tresses were bleached using
the integration of the generated curve
commercial lightning powder (Lighter,
of force as a function of the hair length.
Brazil) and hydrogen peroxide 40 volume,
EMIC DL-500 (Instron, USA) equipment was
demonstrates pollution deposited on
for 30 minutes at 25°C. This process was
used for the measurements. The test was
the hair fibre cannot be removed using
repeated twice. Before the tests, the tresses
performed in dry and wet conditions.
a simple shampoo and conditioner, nor
were cleaned in sequence with a 10
can these products protect hair from the
percent solution of SLES.
an efficient anti-pollution shield. Yet Symrise’s Hair Care Centre
deposition of pollutants.
A combability study was performed to analyse the synergistic effect of SymHair
A dosage of 0.5mℓ of the test
In this context, Symrise developed a
Shield. The two isolated substances, wheat
formulations was applied on the tresses
bran extract (substance A) and pentylene
new technology that protects hair from
and massaged for one minute. For the
glycol (substance B), were applied in the
air pollution dust and helps maintain its
dry condition test, the tresses were left
shampoo and conditioner bases and then
healthy characteristics. Combability and
at a controlled temperature (20°C ± two
the treatments were applied to the tresses.
shine properties were evaluated before and
degrees Celsius and 50 percent ± five
after the exposure to pollution as well as
percent relative humidity to dry overnight).
Results and discussion
pollution residues left on the hair’s surface.
The performance of the placebo
In the evaluation of the formulations, the
formulations was also evaluated.
combability test showed similar levels of
Materials and methods
All the tresses were submitted to dust
energy were required to comb the hair
Caucasian virgin dark brown hair tresses,
exposure for two minutes inside a chamber
prior to hair fibres being treated with the
2.7g and 25cm long (INHIP, NY), were used
containing a rotating support and
shampoo and conditioner products. This
in the study. ISO 12103-1, A1 ultrafine dust
controlled airflow. The dust density used
means all the tresses used showed the
Remancos P&C 177x65mm Quarterfrom page copy.pdf 1 2018/01/29 10:51 AMsession was selected with particle sizes ranging was 150g/m³. Another cleansing
same initial condition of damage.
WE DEVELOP & MANUFACTURE NEW OR EXISTING PRODUCTS FOR YOUR LINE UTILISING OUR: • • • •
Remancos Nature is our business | www.remancos.co.za
Formulation Development In-house Laboratory Stability & Safety Testing Blending & Filling
• • • •
Production Manufacturing Plant Creative Product & Graphic Design Team Bottle & Packaging Sourcing Marketing Consulting
RESEARCH & MANUFACTURING COSMETICS
we make your dreams a reality. Tel : +27 11 791 3757 | Cell: +27 745 648268 | Fax : 086 547 1959 ADDRESS:
Unit E2, Metropolitan Park, Wakis Ave. Strijdom park, Jhb. 2196 South Africa Email: candicekalil@remancos.co.za
34
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
HAIR CARE A.
In the wet condition, 0.23 Joules were
B.
C.
Figure 1 A to D
required to comb untreated tresses, which
A) Energy spent to comb tresses in wet conditions
represents 53 percent of energy compared
B) Difference in percentage between the initial and final conditions for wet hair
to the hair before the dust exposure (see Figures 1A & B). This shows the presence of dirt particles hinders the detangling process. The tresses treated with the placebo required 0.17 Joules (13 percent energy) to be combed after exposure (see Figures 1A & B). In the dry condition, it took 0.11 Joules
D.
C) Energy spent to comb the tresses in dry conditions D) Difference in percentage between the initial and final conditions for dry hair *p<0.05, when the differences between initial and final are compared for SymHair Shield and bleached+dust **p<0.05, when the differences between initial and final are compared between SymHair Shield and placebo treated tresses.
(57 percent of energy) to comb the untreated tresses while the tresses treated
energy (p<0.05, in wet and dry), showing
amounts of pollution adhesion. This
with the placebo required 0.09 Joules (28
the protective film helps prevent high
leads to healthier hair, as it remains
percent of energy) (see Figure 1C). After
amounts of dust from adhering to the
conditioned and easy to comb even
dust exposure, the combing process got
surface of the fibres.
after exposure to pollution. •
more energy intensive (see Figure 1D). Combing the tresses treated with SymHair Shield required significantly less
Using SymHair Shield as an active ingredient in shampoo and conditioner formulations protects hair from high
Symrise – www.symrise.com
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
35
PHARMA FOCUS//R&D
SA’s first biosimilar oncology drug approved for use In collaboration with Teva Pharmaceutical Industries, Cipla has introduced the first biosimilar for the oncology and haematology categories in the South African market. By Abby Vorster
F
ilgrastim Teva, manufactured by
treatments for many life-threatening and rare
Teva and distributed in South Africa
illnesses, such as cancer, diabetes, anaemia,
by Cipla, paves the way for more
rheumatoid arthritis and multiple sclerosis, the
affordable treatments to aid in the
originator products can cost a patient up to
fight against dread diseases such as cancer. This is according to Paul Miller, CEO of Cipla
R1 million a year. A biosimilar is highly similar to the original
South Africa.
biologic reference product in terms of quality,
‘This landmark development for the
safety and efficacy. Yet it can be produced at
South African pharmaceutical industry
a significantly lower cost, which reduces the
only happened after a thorough approval
price and increases the number of patients
process by the South African Health Products
with access to the medicine.
Regulatory Authority (SAPRHA). Not only does the approval of Filgrastim Teva hold major
To prove the quality, safety and efficacy of Filgrastim Teva various clinical studies
significance for the advancement of
including phase three safety and efficacy
affordable supportive oncology treatments, but also the learnings from this process will assist Paul Miller
in faster approvals for more biosimilar medicines in future,’ he comments. SAPRHA’s ability and willingness to approve biosimilars bodes well for the future of South Africa’s pharma
DID YOU KNOW?
trials had to be conducted as part of the registration requirement. Teva launched Filgrastim in
A study published by medical journal Lancet predicts subSaharan Africa could see an 85 percent increase in the number of cancer cases by 2030.
industry and more importantly, in the drive
2012 in Europe subsequent to EMA approval and FDA approval in the USA, which means it has already been through two stringent approval processes by international health authorities. ‘Because Filgrastim
Teva has been available on the European
to continually improve patient access to life
and American markets for more than seven
saving and new treatment regimens.
years, we have access to a vast database on its safety and efficacy. Due to the high volumes
Under the microscope
of this product being produced, we have been
A biosimilar is a ‘generic’
able to bring the price down dramatically,’
version of a registered
says Miller.
biologic medicine, produced from living cells
A flagship product
using biotechnology,
For every one percent reduction in the price
such as recombinant DNA
of these life saving medicines, the number of
technology, controlled gene
patients with access to them increases by one
expression or antibody
percent. ‘Helping to increase competition in
technologies. While biologic
the market also means patients could have
technology has enabled
access to newer and improved medications
the development of new
much sooner,’ Miller explains. Filgrastim Teva is manufactured in Europe and distributed in South Africa by Cipla. It is a cornerstone product in the oncology category and used as a supportive treatment to counter one of the major side-effects of chemotherapy. Chemotherapy drugs often disrupt the production of immune cells in the bone marrow of
36
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
PHARMA FOCUS//R&D
INVESTED IN LOCAL MANUFACTURING ALTHOUGH CIPLA HAD initially formed an agreement with government in 2016 to establish a biologics manufacturing facility in South Africa, at the Dube Trade Port in KwaZulu-Natal, it has subsequently renegotiated this Memorandum of Understanding to not only focus on biologics but also cancer treatments and drugs to treat respiratory and metabolic diseases. ‘Cipla will now build a bigger facility in Durban, not only to meet the
Spectroscopic Solutions for the Validated Pharmaceutical Industry
healthcare needs of South African patients, but also the healthcare needs of patients throughout Africa,’ Miller comments. At this stage, there is no set date for construction of the new facility to commence. Once negotiations with government are finalised, it is believed the facility will create 180 permanent jobs, mostly in the engineering, biological science and pharma R&D fields; a further 120 indirect jobs will also be created.
patients, leading to a condition known as neutropenia. If untreated, this can progress to neutropenic sepsis, which is
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a potentially life threatening complication. This biosimilar works by stimulating bone marrow to produce new white blood cells. In doing so, it decreases the duration of neutropenia experienced by patients after receiving chemotherapy.
It is a testament to the strength of our research and design capabilities ‘Introducing Filgrastim Teva to the South African market will enable us to significantly reduce the cost of treatment for neutropenia. Cancer patients are able to reduce their total oncology expense by using biosimilars such as Filgrastim Teva and more affordable generic chemotherapy treatment,’ he adds. Filgrastim Teva will be the flagship product in Cipla’s
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existing oncology portfolio of 28 molecules. ‘We feel strongly about this treatment. We see it as an industry wide imperative to help bring down the cost of cancer treatment.’ Avinoam Sapir, senior vice president and head of Teva International Markets’ Israel, Turkey, Ukraine and South Africa cluster says the company is pleased about Filgrastim Teva’s new availability to South African patients. ‘It is a testament to the strength of our research and design capabilities and our commitment to producing high
Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FTIR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and costeffective compliance.
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quality, affordable biopharma products.’ Miller adds: ‘This is a proud moment for Cipla. We hope this is the first of many more oncology biosimilars to be
Innovation with Integrity
FTIR/FT-NIR/Raman
introduced locally. Together with Teva, we aim to truly make a difference in the lives of many more patients.’ •
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
37
COLOUR COSMETICS
Does your beauty brand cater to all
demographics? For a long time the cosmetics industry has struggled to embrace all consumers, yet with the launch of Fenty Beauty in 2017, inclusive makeup is now a major movement. Abby Vorster caught up with Karen Maier, Merck’s head of performance materials in South Africa to find out more about how the business unit is helping consumers express their individuality.
B
eauty for the individual is on everyone’s
available in 28 different shades, the Sorbet Makeup
radar because the one size fits all approach
collection (launched in March) offers endless choice.
is outdated. Rihanna has proven this with Fenty Beauty, which she launched
Personalised or customised beauty is a key area of
drawn international praise for the range of shades it
focus for Merck. At in-cosmetics Global 2018, the
offers, in particular for darker skin tones. For example,
company had several experimental beauty stations
the Pro Filt’r primer and matte foundations are
on its exhibition stand showcasing a rich variety
available in up to 40 different colours, addressing a
of active ingredients, functional fillers and effect
long-criticised gap in cosmetics industry offerings for
pigments to explore and combine. Supported by
women of colour.
Customisable beauty products are powerful and solve real problems
‘Inclusive beauty has sparked a
Merck specialists, visitors could create their own tailored cosmetics product. The functional fillers
great time for the discovery of a wider
experimental station focused on touching, feeling
spectrum of African skin tones. Brands
and creating. This station gave visitors the chance to
should be focusing more on consumer
formulate the perfect foundation for their individual
engagement to meet their colour
skin colour.
needs. There is a gap in the market
Customisable beauty products are powerful and
to figure out what colours work on
solve real problems. ‘Products that can be tweaked
dark skin because normal functional
are the future of the colour cosmetics segment,’
pigments may not be suitable. At
she comments. ‘Local brands looking to innovate in
Merck, we’re working hard to develop
this space should be testing their products in store
solutions for darker skins using internal testing,’
to help consumers find their perfect match. This is
Maier explains.
a key opportunity for brands to develop personal
The waves of change have already hit South African shores with Sorbet’s Skin Tone Project, which
38
Beauty without limitations
in September 2017. The singer’s beauty brand has
relationships with consumers.’ Maier says the customisation trend is also very
took place during 2017 to find the perfect foundation
much about genderless beauty with formulations that
shade for South African women. In collaboration
go beyond stereotypes. ‘The gender spectrum has
with Clicks, Sorbet went on a mission around the
become so diverse. Initial innovations included the
country and mixed and matched, until the brand
2015 launch of “guyliner” and subsequent cover stick
finally nailed the perfect palette that covered all the
for men, but nowadays anything should go for the
skin tones of local consumers. With 92 foundations
male population.’
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
COLOUR COSMETICS Catrice Cosmetics Limited Edition Genderless range of seven unique products for the eyes, lips and face was launched in stores between January and March 2018. The makeup brand says this campaign was encouraged by international designers, who use the credo ‘no gender, no limits’ as inspiration for their collections, consciously sending a strong message for more freedom in the fashion and beauty industry. ‘Gender segregation is being perceived as more and more out-dated – this mind-set requires matching makeup. With the Genderless range, Catrice is giving everyone the opportunity for self-realisation’.
Proven sustainable These days, most consumers shop with a conscience. They look for mindful and trustworthy brands, which in turn chose to work only with suppliers that mirror their values in terms of truly ethical and sustainably
INTRODUCING OUR RONASTAR BLACK ALLURE IN 2019, MOVING into 2020, Merck predicts
Merck’s newest addition to its Allure range,
a strong resurgence of black. ‘In the depths
Ronastar Black Allure is an exciting matte
of space, black is a mystery and fuels
pigment that unleashes a sensational, deepest
fascination. It beckons with the allure of the
black. Its impact is ideal for graphical elements
unknown to explore shades of ebony’. These
around the eyes, such as eye-shadows,
words from Merck’s latest trend report are
mascara, pencils and eyeliners.
significant for the Ethnic beauty movement in South Africa. ‘Defined eyebrows are a big trend among
‘Using Ronastar Black Allure, these graphical elements add a stark contrast, much like white
African consumers,’ Maier explains. ‘To achieve
outlines in Ndebele art, and
this structured look, they use black colour
provide a base for filling in the
cosmetics in different textures.’
lines with colour,’ she adds.
sourced ingredients. In India, mica mainly originates from socially
serve the region’s 20 000 residents. Two medical
and economically challenged regions where the
professionals work at the centre and provide regular
Responsible Mica Initiative says more than 20 000
health services to schools. Previously there were no
children work in extremely harsh and unsafe
healthcare facilities of any kind in the region.
conditions to support their families. ‘Our customers and their consumers want proof
Lippy in the limelight
we’re living up to what we communicate from a
Maier says Merck will be rolling out more lip care
sustainable sourcing and ethical practices point of
innovations in the coming months.
view,’ says Maier. ‘To implement fair and sustainable
‘During tough economic times, lipsticks have
mica collection, processing and sourcing practices,
been proven to flourish. With the South African
Merck and several other industry role players
economy having contracted by two percent during
developed the Responsible Mica Initiative.’
the first quarter of 2018, we’re likely to see a rise in
According to Merck’s 2017 sustainability report, instead of suspending business relationships in northern India, the global company made a
the demand for affordable luxuries like lipstick,’ she explains. Lips are becoming very important and Merck is
conscious decision to take responsibility for the
staying ahead of the trend by helping customers
region by safeguarding local communities and
develop new formats and novel claims for this
jobs. To ensure Merck procures mica without the
segment. Interesting lip care options include
use of child labour, the company has completely
lip butters, jellies, stains, polishes and shines.
reorganised its supply chain and now sources the
International brands have already launched
raw material exclusively from qualified mines. This
novel products, such as a top coat, lip food and a
formal working environment is the only way to ensure
lip powder, which turns into a stain when applied.
compliance with Merck’s standards, since child
For inspiration, Maier advises local brands
labour cannot be ruled out if mica is gathered in
to have a look at Art Deco’s powder lip finish.
publicly accessible areas.
This product is made up of finely milled glitter
Merck is also committed to improving the living conditions of families in the mica mining areas.
particles that transform lipstick into a wholly different look within seconds.
Its efforts include financing three schools run by
Maybelline’s Lip Flush Bitten Lips lipstick
its partner, IGEP, in Jharkhand, where more than
is another exciting example of innovation.
500 children and adolescents are enrolled. At
Claiming the first three-toned ombré lipstick,
a fourth school opened by one of Merck’s mica
the brand invites consumers to show their
suppliers in 2014, the company achieved its goal of
versatile side in an instant swipe to achieve
providing scholarships for 200 children in 2017.
bitten lips. •
Another area of focus is to improve access to healthcare in northern India. In 2010, Merck established a health centre operated by IGEP to
Merck – www.merck4cosmetics.com
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
39
COLOUR COSMETICS
New
functional mineral for makeup
Calcium carbonates supplier Omya has just launched an innovative ingredient for colour cosmetics which offers multiple ways to enhance formulations.
O
allows particles to improve the effectiveness of end products while simultaneously easing the production process. Omyaskin was unveiled in April in-cosmetics Global and particles are available for worldwide distribution. In South Africa, Omyaskin and other Omya products can be sourced through by
mya has developed a new generation of recrystallised mineral particles for use in
Mattifier and texture enhancer
decorative cosmetics.
Using a patented technology, the company
created a novel mineral composition, branded under the Omyaskin name (INCI: Hydroxyapatite Calcium Carbonate). The new advanced structure offers greater porosity and a larger surface area, which
CJP Chemicals.
By its inherent nature, the incorporated pigment helps to improve the coverage and colour
DID YOU KNOW?
of decorative cosmetics and it boosts SPF in skin creams. The porous structure of the particles can
Omyaskin particles are absorb sebum, reduce drying time produced in Orgon, France and deliver a matte finish. and meet the requirements of Adding between one EC Commission regulation No. and 10 percent Omyaskin 1223/2009 on cosmetics to a formulation enhances products. The product also compressibility and the sensorial comes with a NATRUE benefits of the end product, such certification. as smoothness and a softer skin feel. Omyaskin can be used as an alternative to talc and kaolin and it improves the performance of titanium dioxide in terms of coverage. These recrystallised mineral particles are suitable for various applications, including foundations, compact powders, lipsticks and BB/ CC/DD creams. •
CJP Chemicals – www.cjpchemicals.co.za Omya – www.omya.com
WE DO WHAT IT TAKES Distributors of Raw Chemical Materials Bragan Chemicals.indd 1
40
| AUGUST 2018 | P C Review
www.braganchemicals.co.za 2018/07/23 10:14
PackagingREVIEW SOUTH AFRICAN
August 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 8
www.pharmacos.co.za
Unlock the potential of
coding technology
Cost-effective flexible packaging materials
Aptar launches new eye drop dispenser
NEWS
Are you up to standard with premium codes? MARKINGS AND CODES are mandatory on FMCG products. Legible and reliable codes benefit everyone in contact with the product, from supply chain managers to retailers and consumers. It is imperative codes appear on pharmaceutical packaging for traceability and serialisation requirements and from a legal standpoint. The global market for marking and coding equipment is anticipated to grow, with revenues expected to increase more than 1.7 times over the next eight years. Future Market Insights predicts this market will reach a value of more than US$1.7 billion by the end of 2027, reflecting a CAGR of 5.5 percent throughout the forecast period. An innovative anti-counterfeiting technology for pharma labelling will be released next month
SLIMMER, SLEEKER
at Label Expo in Chicago. Do not miss the exclusive on this exciting development. Turn to
DEODORANT CAN FOR NIVEA
page 44 now to find out more about this and the latest news in marking equipment and
The personal care brand has a new look for its female range of deodorants in a taller, sleek shaped aluminium aerosol can. The new packaging designed by Beiersdorf and manufactured by the Ardagh Group has already been rolled out in South Africa.
capabilities. Enjoy the read!
Assistant Editor Aarifah.Nosarka@newmediapub.co.za
ANTALIS NOW A 100 PERCENT SOUTH AFRICAN COMPANY THE PAPER, PACKAGING and graphic
with his business partner, there will be
solutions provider recently announced
a combined 51 percent of the division,
its move to become a black empowered
which includes a 30 percent black
company with the 100 percent local
female shareholding.
buyout of shares owned by the global division. In the process of divesting from South
managing director.
directors. The company will continue to
components manufactured using a newly developed grade of thermoplastic elastomers (TPE). The Thermoplast M family of TPE, developed by Kraiburg TPE, is for medical applications. Because the TPE components come into direct contact with the eye drop
Each MD will concentrate on
formulation, Aptar Pharma requires the
business functions specific to their
use of medical grade plastics. These
core strengths for operational
materials must comply with stringent
efficiencies and market optimisation.
percent black and 30 percent black
regulations for the primary packaging
‘Kalidas and Waldeck realised the
female owned. Its B-BBEE maximum
buyout opportunity presented by
procurement recognition level will
Antalis International would result in the
enable Antalis South Africa to partner
formation of a truly empowered South
with government, state-owned entities
African entity,' says Romano Daniels,
and other organisations that prioritise
spokesperson for Antalis South Africa.
the country’s transformation agenda.
He says together with a 320-strong
The company has a net asset value
team, it will continue to serve existing
exceeding R200 million and an annual
and new customers with excellent
turnover of more than R1 billion.
service, innovative product ranges
The new shareholder team includes
dispenser (OSD) incorporates several functional
49 percent of the company
shares to two existing Antalis South Africa
African owned business that is 51
APTAR PHARMA’S NEW ophthalmic squeeze
South Africa, holds the remaining and will assume the role of joint
The entity becomes an entirely South
FOR EYE DROPS
Raymond Waldeck, MD of Antalis
Africa, Antalis International sold all its
trade as Antalis South Africa.
MEDICAL GRADE TPE
of sensitive medications. Moisturising eye drops are a proven remedy for dry eyes. These products, which seldom contain preservatives, can cause allergic reactions. The OSD from Aptar Pharma has been in widespread use as a dispenser for
The new ophthalmic squeeze dispenser
preservative-free eye drops. This is owing to its microbiological safety and easy and precise dosing capabilities.
and industry expertise. 'These are
Antalis South Africa’s existing financial
elements critical to the ongoing
director Neelesh Kalidas, who will serve
success of the business,’
as joint managing director. Together
he concludes.
To optimise the product, the manufacturer sought a thermoplastic processable material, which allows direct contact with medications. Aptar Pharma’s OSD is the only
Raymond Waldeck and Neelesh Kalidas
repeated-use dosing system in the world and is approved by the FDA for preservative-free liquid medications. The design contains no metal parts. It is also suitable for very sensitive formulations. The purely mechanical functioning principle of the seal membrane and spring unit eliminates the possibility of microbiological contamination of the liquid. Kraiburg TPE also provides grades of Thermoplast M for syringes.
42
| AUGUST 2018 | Packaging Review
Squid Ink Coding and Marking Solutions
SQ2 Printer Drop on Demand Large Character ink jet system prints high quality dot-matrix characters on a variety of surfaces at a cost-effective price.
CoPilot 382 Streamline 5 CIJ printing system prints superior quality small characters on a variety of substrates: porous, nonporous, smooth, textured, curved, concave and more.
SQ Laser Printer
Thermal Transfer Overprinter
Designed for high speed primary coding applications. Permanently mark onto paper, cardboard, plastic, glass, wood, coated metal, leather, and more.
Uses thermal printheads paired with thermal transfer ribbon to apply a consistent, reliable mark on your products. The SQ-32 and SQ-53 models offer razor sharp high speed printing of serial numbers, barcodes, logos and graphics at 300 DPI.
CAPE TOWN Tel: 021-534 0215 DURBAN Tel: 031-569 4199 JOHANNESBURG Tel: 011-312 4976 sales@goldpack.co.za www.goldpack.co.za
THE AD SHOP 3258
Hi-resolution ink jet printing system offers 2.1 print height from a single print head with the ability to run up to 4 print heads from a single controller.
CODING & MARKING
Forgery – a thing of the past! Codes and markings on packs and labels are beneficial in a number of ways, from meeting traceability requirements and assuring consumers of product authenticity to delivering a customised experience. Aarifah Nosarka brings you an exclusive on new anti-counterfeit technology.
S
quid Ink Manufacturing, a producer
One tablet may be used to
‘This is a selling point made by some
of superior quality inks and inkjet
communicate with a number of Streamline
resellers, which claim their ribbon is best.
printing equipment, has introduced
printers or any other Squid Ink case coding
Ribbons actually have a special silicon
printer using the Orion software platform.
based anti-static back coating. This
the Squid Streamline 5 CIJ printing system. The technology is designed to print
Streamline’s self-cleaning printhead
protects the print head and can leave end
small superior quality characters on a
with CleanJet maintenance routine allows
users assuming the coating is an added
variety of substrates, including porous,
quick and easy automatic start up and
value feature of a particular brand and
non-porous, smooth, textured, curved
shut down. A simple press of a button
worth paying extra. This is especially true
and concave. Printing up to five lines of
commands the printer to go through
considering the high cost of replacing
text, the Streamline offers a reliable, yet
a start up cycle or flush the system for
thermal print heads,’ he adds.
cost-effective solution for virtually any
shutdown. When routine maintenance is
small character, primary packaging
required components can be
coding application.
swapped out within minutes.
Unlike other CIJ printers on the market,
This eliminates the need to
this system does not require a built-in
purchase expensive filter and
display screen. It operates with a wireless
pump assemblies or schedule
or wired touchscreen tablet, running
costly service calls.
Squid Ink’s powerful Orion software. This
Changing fluids in the
Back coatings on thermal transfer
Changing fluids in the Streamline 5 is a simple, fast and clean process
ribbons are not unique to any particular brand. It is a standard among well established ribbon producers to apply a back coating. ‘In the event you remove the identifying features of competing ribbons and rely solely on
allows users the option of controlling
Streamline 5 is a simple, fast
their printers on the production floor or
and clean process. Clean
networking multiple systems from one
cartridges of ink and make-up
central location.
are replaced in seconds without the need
performance? The simple answer is no,’
to stop production.
says Aitken.
No chips or RFID tags are used to lock users into a fluids hostage situation with the printer manufacturer. The technology is available through the authorised South African distributor, Goldpack.
one ribbon, will it be possible to differentiate between the different ribbons based purely on
In the current tough economic climate every method of cutting costs must be considered. ‘Coding consumables and thermal print heads are certainly an area where manufacturers can save a small fortune in the long term,’ he explains.
DEBUNK THERMAL TRANSFER MYTHS
Specialised Printing Products is a coding consumable supplier. The company’s
Chances are a
offerings extend to hot stamping foil,
premium is charged
thermal transfer ribbons and hot foil coders.
when manufacturers exclusively use certain
Pyrotec PackMark has a variety of coding
for ‘best before’ or batch
solutions, which company GM, Brandon
coding because a supplier
Pearce, says provides a good return on
has suggested a certain ribbon is best for a particular The Squid Streamline 5 CIJ printing system
44
| AUGUST 2018 | Packaging Review
A COMPACT, FULL FEATURE SOLUTION
branded consumables
printer. This is according to Graeme Aitken, MD of Specialised Printing Products.
investments. As the sole South African distributor of Markem-Imaje’s equipment, the company has built its market knowledge and consultative approach.
CODING & MARKING ‘The Markem-Imaje range assists in
This exciting new technology from
adapting our offering to customers’
IQDEMY enables multilayer expanded
specific needs. We also provide
coding, especially with QR codes,
insights, technologies and support
using multiple colours. Using only
to help clients with their required
four colours, it offers up to 4.3 billion
packaging operations. We are keen
unique and almost impossible to
to help our clientele to overcome
counterfeit variants.
increasing competitive
Quantum dot printed security
pressure, implement more complex operations and meet demanding retailer and regulatory mandates.’ Markem-Imaje’s 9000 Series of small character inkjet coders are full-feature printers.
DID YOU KNOW?
marks are invisible under normal conditions and can be transparent,
On pharmaceutical labels, mixing tones using quantum dot technology increases code capacity exponentially.
Designed for demanding manufacturing environments, their general purpose is for specific
like spot varnish. This technology can be used to print on almost any substrate, using UV varnish or a waterbased solution as a carrier.
These codes have been tested successfully in laboratory conditions
applications such as high contrast and
to withstand temperatures over 400°C
high performance marking. Markets
without any changes occurring to their
for these coders include cosmetics
structure or features. This endurance
and toiletries.
makes the technology compatible
product protection is impressive. Products
with lamination. The codes also
can easily be authenticated using UV
are designed to print on all types of
maintain their colour for up to 10 years
flashlights with or without photodetectors
substrates like plastic, glass, metal,
and are highly resistant to external
or spectrophotometers connected to
cardboard and directly from standard
chemical impact.
computers and software.
The consumables for the 9000 Series
to specific applications including
Despite the advanced technology,
Markem-Imaje’s 9000 Series
Consumers can easily verify the
sterilisation and UV curing. They are
quantum dot technology is surprisingly
authenticity of their product purchase
also available in a variety of colours
affordable with a one centimetre by one
while manufacturers can track products
and a choice of alcohol-based, water-
centimetre spot code using UV lacquer
through all stages of the supply chain
based, ketone-free and MEK-free inks.
as a carrier. The value it will add to
which makes it easy to check up on distributors and retailers. This technology
NEW TECHNOLOGY COMING SOON An innovative anti-counterfeiting technology for pharma labelling will be released in September at Label Expo
This quantum dot technology from IQDEMY enables multilayer expanded coding
offers manufacturers complete information about the life cycle of their products. Product data and distribution are effectively protected by the
2018 in Chicago and concurrently in
IQDEMY blockchain system using
South Africa.
this technology.
The technology is quantum dots,
The South African launch of
which are metal based nanoparticles
quantum dot technology by
with semi-conductive properties,
NSI 4 Africa will be concurrent
absorbing light in the UV spectrum and
with the scheduled global release,
visibly emitting it. They’re made up of
meaning local
inorganic elements, such as Indium, Graphene or Perovskite and range between two and 10 nanometres in size. The quantum dot printed security
pharma companies will have access to this advanced
codes are impossible to replicate
authentication system
with normal printing because the
at the same time as their
non-homogenous embedded colour code will be unreadable. Commonly
counterparts in Europe and the USA. •
used 2D security options like QR codes and barcodes are composed of single colour matrices with each pixel representing one bit of information. Such elements can be coded with up to 2 953 bits, which is approximately one page of printed information.
Goldpack – www. goldpack.co.za NSI 4 Africa – www.nsi4africa.com Pyrotec PackMark – www. pyrotec.co.za Specialised Printing Products – www.sppdirect.com
Packaging Review | AUGUST 2018 |
45
CODING & MARKING
ZERO DEFECT printing Having started in 2002 from humble beginnings as a two man team inside a garage, Alternative Coding Solutions now has more than a dozen staff members across the country. It is the sole supplier of Hitachi’s inkjet printers in South Africa and neighbouring states. By Aarifah Nosarka
H
itachi’s industrial inkjet (IJ) printers
are easily replaced by rotating the joint,
are high speed non-contact
without any tools.
Ink viscosity and consumption are always at optimum levels owing to a monitoring system. The series
printing machines. They can print
on a variety of substrates, including metal,
RELIABILITY IS KEY
comes with a tapered shape at the
plastic, film and paper.
IC tags for ink and makeup cartridges
tip of printheads thereby reducing
have been adopted in the UX series.
the distance between work and the
durability of these printers are really
These tags prevent an incorrect
printhead, which is fitted with anti-
impressive,’ says Naeem Patel, co-owner of
cartridge from being installed. Incorrect
corrosion plates. It is also possible to
Alternative Coding Solutions.
cartridges are passed over to the
‘The speed, flexibility, reliability and
Hitachi’s UX series is the newest range
main unit, which is equipped
available on the market which is suitable
with an RFID function. An error
for a number of industries, including
message appears on screen
pharma and cosmetics.
as soon as the incorrect
‘This series provides up to 50 percent cost savings on makeup compared to previous versions. They are also one of
cartridge is scanned. The UX series is manufactured
DID YOU KNOW?
print to lower positions.
CO2 LASER MARKER
Hitachi manufactured its first industrial printer in 1975.
with stainless steel cabinets to
Hitachi’s high level laser marker, the LM-C300, meets a variety of coding requirements. The system has a new, icon
based 10-inch full colour touch
the cheapest coding technologies to
meet the needs for hygiene standards.
run. Makeup is the fluid used in these
These cabinets offer IP65 protection
screen, which enables easy and
machines,’ Patel comments.
and allow wash down with pressured
intuitive operations. According to Patel,
water and industrial detergents. Patel
its wysiwyg design provides seamless
cartridges can be used up to the last drop.
describes the series as ideal technology
operations by displaying print data and
It is not necessary to stop the production
for pharma and cosmetics markets.
settings immediately.
The ink and makeup fluid in the series’
line to replace cartridges. An ecosystem
What’s more is this particular series has
The series can be operated with
of a simple cartridge-type bottle can be
an automatic nozzle cleaning button.
a laser application. An example is a
replaced after the ink or makeup fluid is
When the button is pushed, the system
Windows based operation that supports
finished and easily disposed. These printers
begins automatic cleaning, which stops
all kinds of applications to prepare and
are designed so minimal parts or modules
as soon as the process is completed.
save print data. The laser marker has guide laser and pointer features. These
The UX series IJ printer
SIMPLE USABILITY
allow print positions on objects to be
A new easy to understand screen design
checked whilst the pointer makes it easy
is featured on the UX series. Most work can be completed on
to check the centre of all prints. The system is capable of printing
one screen using a simplified
up to 600 characters per second on
process. There is no need
a variety of objects, which are either
for complicated operations
stationary or moving at a high speed on
to obtain the necessary
production lines. It also features a font
information to improve
editor, stable laser output, depth control
usability. All operations are
and intersection adjustment.
displayed on screen. Comprehensive
‘We are certain of the quality of Hitachi’s printers and offer a demo
illustrations pop up on screen
at a customer’s premises without any
when troubleshooting,
obligations. We maintain seeing is
maintenance or ink
believing,’ Patel concludes. •
filter replacement is required. These assist in quality maintenance.
46
| AUGUST 2018 | Packaging Review
Alternative Coding Solutions – www.altcode.co.za
Industrial coding and marking solutions Alternative Coding Solutions, the proud supplier of Hitachi inkjet printers in South Africa, now introduces the new range of the UX series printers, which can do up to six lines of print.
This dynamic company offers the complete range of Hitachi printing machines, from the economy UX-B line model for basic applications, right up to the UX-D 150, one of the world’s fastest inkjet printers, which can print more than 3 100 characters/second.
PROVEN RELIABILITY & ECONOMY
Hitachi reliability has been proven on the South African market. All machines have innovative ink cartridge systems that reduce fluid consumption and operating costs. The machine does not require expensive core or module replacement. Laser printers are also available with no ink and make up costs.
QUALITY CODING • Easy, quick operation with large touch screen • Nozzle and gutter automatically cleaned • Small footprint, light weight • User-friendly, cost-effective, easy maintenance • Wide range of inks and colours • Up to 50% saving on make up
Hitachi Industrial Equipment Systems Co.,Ltd. http://www.hitachi-ies.co.jp/ english/ products/ijp/index.htm
ALTERNATIVE CODING SOLUTIONS | A supplier of Hitachi Coding Equipment
JHB Tel: 011 708 7468 | Naeem: 082 783 4584 | Michael: 082 880 7722 | National sales: Shezaad: 060 997 5165 | sales@altcode.co.za www.altcode.co.za
FLEXIBLE PACKAGING
How to protect and preserve your products There are different materials options used in the makeup of flexible packaging. Aarifah Nosarka looks at the role of each and the most popular packaging types.
E
very single layer in a flexible pouch
Flexible packaging is attracting
performs a crucial role in the
a lot of negative attention at the
packaging’s performance and
moment because a large amount
presentation. Grant Fryer, operations
of this medium is neither recyclable
director at Mtech SA, says these
nor biodegradable. ‘Big retailers are
pouches are manufactured from a
trending away from non-recyclable
variety of substrates laminated together,
products in their sustainability drives.
including polyester, PET, PP, BOPP, polyamide, BOPA, aluminium foil and polyethylene. Each substrate provides specific performance characteristics such as oxygen, moisture, light, chemical, puncture and tear resistance, as well as rigidity
There is no replacement for flexible
DID YOU KNOW?
Flexible bags can be produced in up to five layers.
and heat sealability.
packaging, especially when brands want to extend the
layer of polypropylene or polyester. The final layer is almost always polyethylene, primarily because of its superior heat sealing characteristics. Most large FMCG
shelf life of their products,’
companies procure flexible packaging in
he comments.
reel form, which is converted into finished
SCOUT THE MARKET Packaging is thriving in the pharma and cosmetic industries.
pouches or bags. This is the most costeffective and efficient way to package finished products. Smaller companies in the home care segment normally purchase
The company uses PET, BOPP, foils
Rising at a steady 2.9 percent year on
and LDPE structures in its single and
year, Smithers Pira forecasts the global
multilayer flexible packs. The popular
market will be worth US$980 billion by
is a global trend. A key differentiator for
formats in pharmaceutical packaging
2022. However, the flexible sector is
these packs is the use of holographic film,
are coextruded structures of flexibles.
more pronounced with a predicted
available in BOPET, BOPP and CPP. These
annual growth rate of 4.3 percent over
materials offer excellent mechanical and
the next four years.
chemical properties. If used in a metallised
Mtech SA prints multi-layered laminates and foil laminates commonly used in the pharma industry for liquids and powders.
Flexible bags in polyester or
finished bags and pack products by hand. Packaging with superior on-shelf appeal
format, the substrate creates a strong
In addition, barrier films are of extreme
polypropylene are typically reverse
barrier to oxygen, light and moisture and,
importance. ‘This is a market in which
printed in up to 10 colours, using the
as a result, prolongs a product’s shelf life. •
we excel. The popular items are our
rotogravure or flexographic process. The
laminated barrier structures, consisting of
substrate is then solvent free laminated
PET or foil,’ says Fryer.
to aluminium foil, or a metallised
48
| AUGUST 2018 | Packaging Review
Mtech SA – www.mtech.co.za
ASSOCIATION NEWS//
PIF requirements in focus On 18 July, Coschem hosted a mid day lecture at Evonik in Midrand, Johannesburg on GHS, SDS and PIF requirements for the cosmetics and personal care industry. Registered professional scientist and the local representative for Lisam Systems, Belinda Berry shared her extensive expertise on these topics.
T
he cosmetics industry is facing
as long as the PIF is available at the
a period of transition from self-
address on the label’ she explained.
regulation to enforced regulation
‘The PIF must also be in the native
by the Department of Health. While
language of state where the product is
the regulations have not yet been
being sold.’
promulgated, the draft regulations are largely based on requirements for
CRUCIAL AND COMPLEX
the EU. To bring industry up to speed
The CPSR is a vital and complex section
on certain necessities within these
of the PIF. In essence, it confirms the
proposed regulations, Berry focused
product is safe for use. The CPSR
on the structure and definitions of
consists of the following parts:
a product information file (PIF), the
• A – safety information
minimum information required for a PIF
• B – safety assessment
and safety assessment requirements,
• the method of manufacturing
all according to the EU regulations,
• evidence of GMP compliance
as well as basic GHS and SDS
• any product claims and the
requirements in South Africa and the
substantiation thereof
differences globally in terms of GHS.
• data on animal testing –
The draft regulations for PIF requirements (Section 4) match those of the EU, yet Berry advised this could change with promulgation. A fixed
on animals The CSPR needs to be completed and signed off by an expert in the field of toxicology. The PIF is kept by the responsible person (typically the business
made up of two parts,
owner/manufacturer) at 6
contains the information
an EU address. It can be electronic or in any
other format and needs
exposure to the product,
to be easily accessible. It should be
the toxicological profile, physical
kept for 10 years after the last batch of
and chemical data, microbiological
products has been produced.
testing and claims support. Part B is
the CSPR, such as the composition,
(CPSR), which includes the assessment
stability, micro testing, quality and
conclusion, label requirements and the
impurities such as heavy metals or
assessor’s credential. If the product is
pesticides. The type of manufacturing
assessed safe, it is then signed by the
process is also key in terms of the
safety assessor.
impurities and quality of a product. Making this information available to
because it contains sensitive
the safety assessor is crucial to the
information and IP. However, the
outcomes of the safety assessment,’
responsible person must also have
Berry added.
access to the PIF. For brands exporting
4
5
The PIF is not a public document because it contains sensitive information and IP 7
‘A lot of data is required to complete
the Cosmetic Product Safety Report
‘The PIF is not a public document
3
product has not been tested
for the PIF, which is
on the product including
2
confirmation is required that the
format is required
being A and B. Section A
1
Coschem hosts regular lectures,
to the EU, the PIF is important from a
seminars and networking events. For
distributor perspective, but does not
more information on these events, send
need to be disclosed to the distributor
an e-mail to bridget@coschem.co.za. •
8
9
1: Vincent Tau of TUT and Lee-Ann Raaff of SMU 2: Beverley and Robert Summers of SMU 3: Zama Mongalo and Sinette Martyn of Avroy Shlain with Coschem’s Bridget MacDonald 4: Dinoshnee Naidoo of Ashkan Trading and Sharon Myers of Adcock Ingram 5: Willie Mokhabuki of Inveschem and Harold Malepe of Evonik 6: Belinda Berry of Lisam Systems 7: Kirsten Scott of Wacker and Frankie Luke of Evonik 8: Kim MacCallum of Vantage and Charis Gratz of D&A Cosmetics 9: Maxine Robertson and Pearl Boso of Symrise
P C Review | AUGUST 2018 |
49
Tea time Can you find your way in our maze?
TO ADVERTISE IN Anita Raath Sales executive
+27 (0)82 976 6541
Carla Melless Sales executive
Solution
+27 (0)83 260 6060
Candida Giambo-Kruger Sales executive
ADVERTISERS' INDEX
+27 (0)71 438 1918
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50
| JANUARY 2018 | P C Review
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Online
INDUSTRY WEB REVIEW ESSENTIAL SPECIALISED PRODUCTS
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FORMPAK
BRB SILICONES
Forover40yearsFormpakhassuppliedspecialisedprocessing,packaging
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specialtysilicones,BRBoffersawiderangeofsolutions withuniquebenefitsinskin,bodyandhaircareandcolour cosmetics.
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industrial applications.
with confidence.
www.lgfb.co.za
Tablet coatings – manufactured, suppliedandmarketedgloballyunderour trade name PHARMASPEC™ - FC
www.quantumcolours.co.za
Hair Transformation from the Inside
Safe
Effortless
Proven
Using non-formaldehyde and non-glyoxylic acid chemistry
Fixate™ Keratin enables long-lasting care benefits improving hair manageability from the inside
Salon tested and validated on different hair types
For complete application instructions, formulation details and sample requests please contact Fixatekeratin@lubrizol.com or visit Go.Lubrizol.com/FixateKeratin The information contained herein is reliable based on current information, but Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. (“Lubrizol”) makes no representations, guarantees or warranties, express or implied, including any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose, or regarding the completeness, accuracy, or timeliness of any information. Lubrizol does not guarantee how its products will perform in combination with other substances or in the User’s process. PRODUCT SAFETY INFORMATION REQUIRED FOR SAFE USE IS NOT INCLUDED. BEFORE HANDLING, READ PRODUCT AND SAFETY DATA SHEETS AND CONTAINER LABELS FOR SAFE USE, PHYSICAL AND HEALTH HAZARD INFORMATION. THE SAFETY DATA SHEET IS AVAILABLE FROM YOUR LUBRIZOL REPRESENTATIVE, OR DISTRIBUTOR. Nothing contained herein is to be considered as permission, recommendation, nor as an inducement to practice any patented invention without permission of the patent owner. Any claims associated with this product may not be approved in all jurisdictions. © Copyright 2018 The Lubrizol Corporation. All trademarks owned by the Lubrizol Corporation. 18-138979