AFRICA
Quarter 3 2018 | Volume 3 | Number 3
PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
www.pharmacos.co.za
In tune with your science
Water purification solutions for production, QC & research
Modern lab equipment for
success in science
Ingredients at the forefront of African skin care
Colours, trends and aromas that influence perfumery
“ SKIN CHARMER Urbanite & countryside princess. Care & protection. From the pot and the tube. Everyone wants the same thing – to feel comfortable in their own skin and to look radiant. How to find the right ingredient for every type of skin and care? Look for solutions in nature, leverage knowledge responsibly and take natural treasures and transform them into products for everyone. We blend consumer demands with innovative research, creating true beauty for everyone and long-term protection inside and out. www.symrise.com
”
Quarter 3 2018 | Volume 3 | Number 3
AFRICA
www.pharmacos.co.za PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
CONTENTS 6
NEWS
21 PACKAGING
EcoVadis awards Azelis with a Gold rating
Packaging expo connects Kenya to global markets
A robotic approach to Unilever’s end of line requirements
Big data drives developments in African healthcare
Design and printing advice for cosmetics labels
9 PHARMA FOCUS: LAB EQUIPMENT & SERVICES
New laboratory solutions from Bosch
Novel discovery to standardise antibiotic susceptibility testing
Syringe pumps for R&D environments
13 SKIN CARE
Get great formulation textures with Cithrol PGTL
Top tips on how to customise for African consumers
Over 200 Halal compliant skin and hair care ingredients
A sustainable, cost-effective Lanolin alternative
Address pigmentation with spikenard extract
Sensitive skin – a growing problem in Africa
24 TRANSPORT & LOGISTICS
Door systems and docking solutions
go the distance
16
36 FRAGRANCES
African ingredients for consumer relevant fragrance creations
Innovative aroma molecules inspired by superfruits
in-cosmetics Latin America indulges the senses
Breakthrough in standardising antibiotic susceptibility testing
A sustainable and modern alternative to Lanolin
10
Simplify the step from R&D to production 9
P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |
3
PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
FROM THE EDITOR
The power of
partnerships M ore than 85 percent of the raw
driest skin in the world and that skin whitening
materials and packaging used
remains the most popular Google search
in Africa’s personal and home
term among them. Based on these trends,
care industries is imported.
we’ve featured a series of solutions for African
Manufacturers rely heavily on suppliers based
skin care, such as a PEG-free w/o emulsifier
in India and the Far East to meet their needs
that helps the formulator get creative with
for cost-effective, quality products with full
textures, over 200 Halal certified ingredients,
traceability. Yet these suppliers rarely deliver
a cost-effective alternative to Lanolin and
on their promises leaving manufacturers
the proven benefit of a spikenard extract in
to deal with inferior product quality issues,
reducing pigmentation.
labelling and content inconsistencies and
If you’re looking for tips and developments
THE TEAM EDITORIAL
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 Contributors: Dr Alison Halliday, Dr Fernando Ibarra, Karen Maier Layout & Design: David Kyslinger ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmediapub.co.za Sales Executive: Gayle Kihn +27 (0)82 457 0896 gayle.kihn@newmediapub.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com
extended lead times. These challenges
in packaging, robotic end of line equipment
alone present immense opportunity for
or how to make your products pop with
Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk
international suppliers and those based in
advanced options for labelling – don’t miss
CIRCULATION
South Africa to grow their African footprints.
our feature on page 21.
Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za
The trick is to develop regional partners in
The section on fragrances on page 26 is
east or west Africa or in South Africa to bring
filled with inspirational ideas from leading
PUBLISHING TEAM
your products to manufacturers in Africa.
global fragrance houses. Using African
General Manager: Dev Naidoo
ingredients and a palette of bright and
Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za
Elga LabWater is one international supplier that utilises its South African partner well.
warm colours, perfumers can develop
Working with Labotec, the company provides
specific concepts or tailor make fragrance
laboratories throughout southern Africa
creations that meet consumers’ needs for
with water purification systems for pure and
coherence and individuality
ultrapure water. These systems contribute
in the products
to success in science, helping researchers
they purchase.
achieve accurate, reliable and reproducible results. This and other solutions to achieve
Enjoy the read!
scientific success in a laboratory setting are highlighted in our pharma focus on page 9. African consumers’ needs are front and
Production Controller: Rae Morrison Art Director: David Kyslinger JOHANNESBURG OFFICE New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
centre in our bumper skin care feature on
Bridget McCarney
page 13. Next to hair care, skin care is the
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
second fastest growing category in Africa.
John Psillos
It’s been proven African women have the
NON-EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl HEAD OFFICE
ADVERTISERS’ INDEX Stability Testing Services.................................12........................www.botanichem.co.za ChemSystems...................................................14........................www.chemsystems.co.za CJP Chemicals.................................................17........................www.cjpchemicals.co.za Crest Chemicals...............................................15........................www.crestchem.co.za Croda................................................................5..........................www.crodapersonalcare.com Future Publishing Solutions.............................IBC......................www.saphex.co.za IMCD..................................................................20.......................www.imcdgroup.com Labotec/Elga LabWater..................................OFC....................www.labotec.co.za Natchem...........................................................27........................www.payanbertrand.com Omron...............................................................22.......................www.industrial.omron.co.za Pin Mao.............................................................25.......................www.pinmao.com.tw Savannah Fine Chemicals..............................19........................www.savannah.co.za Sensetek............................................................30.......................www.sensetek.biz Siyakha Imperial Printing.................................23.......................www.labelprint.co.za Symrise..............................................................IFC......................www.symrise.com Vital Health Foods............................................OBC....................www.vital.co.za
New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media Publishing four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical
Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Tandym.
Copyright: all rights reserved.
4
| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa
NEWS
Azelis secures a Gold rating from EcoVadis THE CSR PERFORMANCE of Azelis has been recognised with an EcoVadis Gold rating, putting the global distributor of personal care and food
for global supply chains using a CSR assessment methodology. This
CONNECTING THE WORLD TO KENYA
covers 180 purchasing categories, 150 countries and 21 CSR indicators.
THE INTERNATIONAL PLASTICS,
ingredients in the top one percent of distributors assessed by EcoVadis. The independent ratings agency provides supplier sustainability ratings
The expo takes place annually
Printing and Packaging Exhibition
and is aimed at promoting a direct
obtaining an advanced rating for its CSR engagement and improving
(PPPEXPO) held from 4 to 6
business link between buyers
on its 2017 score of 60 points. The improvement was achieved in all four
September in Kenya showcased
and sellers.
categories, from business and labour practices to environment and
exhibitors from more than
sustainable procurement.
30 countries.
Company-wide, Azelis achieved a score of 68 from EcoVadis,
The trade show took place at the
Azelis is in the top two percent of suppliers in all categories.
Kenya, the gateway to the east African market, is fast emerging as a distribution and
Kenyatta International Convention
supply hub to the entire plastics,
evolving and improving annually. The accolade is an appraisal of the
Centre and is the only dedicated,
printing and packaging industry
group-wide efforts and commitments to instil the same high standards for
industry specific event in the East
in the east African region. The
performance across all regions in which the group operates. All teams
African region. It offered exhibitors
country has a market of about
and functions worked hard towards one goal and we will take a moment
an excellent platform to develop
33 million customers and is the
to celebrate this great achievement,’ says María Jesús Almenar Martin,
business alliances and showcase
only distributor of goods to other
head of Azelis group SHEQ and who leads CSR within the group.
their technological advances.
east African countries. These
Visitors could also interact directly
include Tanzania, Uganda,
to working with its partners to create value and grow together in a
with African traders from the east,
Ethiopia, Malawi, Nigeria and
sustainable way. As a global business, with operations across America,
central and South African region.
South Africa.
‘Obtaining the Gold rating confirms Azelis’ CSR performance is
Company CEO, Dr Hans Joachim Müller, adds: ‘Azelis is committed
Asia Pacific and EMEA, Azelis takes its responsibilities seriously, always
Africa is one of the world’s
The Mombasa seaport
looking for new ways to make a positive impact on society and minimise
fastest growing markets. As a
provides infrastructure for the
its footprint, whilst delivering the best possible products and services. A
result of the international interest,
largest source of incoming
positive rating from EcoVadis is not only essential to us but also to our
PPPEXPO Africa attracted thousands
products by sea freight from
partners, who often expect an independent and external review of our
of buyers and decision makers of all
the Middle East, Indian sub-
CSR performance.’
levels from various industries.
continent, Europe and Far East.
BOBST SHOWCASES ADVANCES IN FILM BARRIER APPLICATIONS MORE THAN 100 participants from Europe, the Middle East and Asia joined Bobst for a two day coating technology event in San Giorgio Monferrato, Italy. Two Bobst CO 8000 latest generation coating lines were presented showcasing their capabilities for different market segments. Detlef Merklinger, coating product line head at Bobst Italia, illustrated the layout of the dedicated coating technology centre, which is currently under construction. The centre will house an innovative coating pilot line equipped with different process technologies and systems. ’We are committed to delivering value to our
Dow Consumer Solutions presented an overview of silicones for the coatings market in terms of application technologies. The company’s representatives spoke about
customers’ processes. This goes far beyond the
thermal silicone applications and processes and tackled
engineering of high performance machines. The aim
industry challenges such as down gauging of materials
of this event was not only to present two of our CO 8000
and silicone migration.
machines but also to bring together the strengths of
BOPP film manufacturer, Treofan shared information
leading companies in segments of the coating market,
relating to the evolution of coated films and their
which is projected for continuous growth and fast paced
functionality in preventing mineral oil contamination of
technological evolution,’ says Merklinger.
packaged products.
6
| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa
Olivier Lavaud, CEO of ITASA and Nanni Bertorelli, deputy manager of product line coating at Bobst
NEWS
Pharma could propel Africa into the forefront of healthcare THE FOURTH INDUSTRIAL Revolution
catalyst for quantum leaps in terms of
and neurological conditions,’ Miller
has a profound effect on the pharma
medical research,’ he said.
explained. For example, in 2001, Cipla
industry. As new technology assists
The theme for BRICS 2018 was
pioneered a fixed-dose antiretroviral
with earlier diagnoses, enhanced
‘BRICS in Africa: Cooperation with
(ARV) combination, reducing the cost
manufacturing capabilities and
developing countries for inclusive
of ARVs from US$12 500 annually
improved treatment plans by using
growth and shared prosperity in the
to less than US$1 per day. The cost
data to better understand patients’
Fourth Industrial Revolution’. Cipla was
of this medication has since been
strict quality standards of the World
needs. This is according to Cipla
one of the sponsors of the summit.
reduced to US$0.30 per day.
Health Organization.
South Africa’s CEO, Paul Miller, who
‘In partnership with Cipla India, we’ve
Paul Miller
Cipla is committed to manufacturing
In Africa, the Ugandan Cipla QCIL
spoke at the 10th BRICS summit,
been able to bring affordable healthcare
facility has manufactured the first
in Africa for Africa. The company has
which took place from 25 to 27 July in
to more South Africans, thereby
batch of a new powerful ARV medicine
invested in enhancing its Cipla Medpro
Johannesburg, South Africa.
increasing the number of patients on
for first line HIV treatment. According
Manufacturing plant in KwaZulu-Natal,
life-saving medication for therapeutic
to Miller, it is the only facility in Africa
South Africa significantly increasing its
areas such as HIV, oncology, respiratory
to produce this medicine under the
production capacity for ARVs.
‘Data will be the biggest driver behind changes in healthcare and the
NEW CLOSURES DIVISION RESPONDS TO MARKET GROWTH
Flexible pouch
now fully recyclable
DIVERSIFIED GLOBAL CHEMICALS manufacturer, SABIC recently
MONDI, IN COLLABORATION
launched a caps and closures division in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. It is
with Werner & Mertz, will introduce
set on addressing issues in a circular economy by using the latest
a new, patented 100 percent
materials and solutions in the closures market.
recyclable pouch with detachable
‘With our extensive range of polyethylenes and polypropylenes,
decorative panels in 2019. This
SABIC has built a strong position in the production of caps and
comes after almost four years
closures. The market is growing and changing all the time. We are
of development. The pouch will
moving quickly to respond to current and future developments,’ says
replace conventional flexible
Hans Pierik, SABIC’s global caps and closures segment leader.
packaging for Frosch, a home care
The company’s goal is to extend its application coverage across food and beverage and non-food areas alike. Its caps and closures
brand sold in the US and UK. The pioneering design
portfolio spans a number of polyethylenes (PE) and polypropylenes
overcomes many shortcomings of
(PP). SABIC also engineers polycarbonate plastic.
the recycling process.
the team worked its way through an ‘innovation funnel’. ‘We tested different materials
‘This year we will be adding more innovative materials, including a
In 2014, Werner & Mertz made a
new HDPE that makes it possible to cut weight in caps for carbonated
bold move to develop completely
concept” was conceived, which
soft drinks,’ Pierik adds.
recyclable packaging. This was
resonated with everyone at each
before most FMCG companies
point of the value chain.’
The company has developed a new multi-modal grade of HDPE with
until a “designed for recycling
excellent organoleptic properties. The SABIC HDPE CCX027C polymer
viewed a commitment to
combines excellent environmental stress cracking resistance (ESCR)
sustainability as an indispensable
related to sealing strength and
with good flow characteristics. This allows cap manufacturers to design
building block for brand equity.
maximum filling volume.
very lightweight closures. It also exhibits strong shear thinning. This
The design aim of the project was
means it has a relatively low MFI (0.8g per 10 minutes, 2.16kg). Its
to ‘reverse engineer’ the recycling
decorative panels was added to
flow characteristics during injection moulding are similar to those of a
process and create packaging
solve the issue of recycling printed
unimodal HDPE with an MFI more than three times higher.
fit for every stage of the recycling
plastic materials, giving the pouch
process. Sorting is a crucial and
a two layer finish. The outer layer is
often neglected step. Failure to
printed with the brand’s design on
sort the collected packaging into
the front and consumer information
material streams that recyclers can
at the back. When empty, the
use leads to down-cycling.
pouch is shredded and sorted into
SABIC has offices in Tunisia and Egypt.
The packaging also needed to be made of a polyethylene mono-material, which is a prerequisite for recycling. Jens Kösters, manager of
SABIC’s headquarters in Riyadh
The concept offers clear benefits
The final touch of detachable
two components, which are sent to separate recycling streams. The material is free from adhesive. Its spout and cap are also made of polyethylene, so the
technical services at Mondi
recycled material is equivalent in
Consumer Goods Packaging, says
quality to the original material.
P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |
7
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13 to 16 November Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre
30 January to 1 February Makuhari Messe, Japan www.cosme-i.jp/en
PHARMA FOCUS//Lab Equipment & Services
Simplify the step from
R&D to production A key partner in pharma manufacturing, Bosch has launched laboratory equipment that offers the shortest route from development to continuous manufacturing with OSD forms. The company also provides formulation and analytical development services.
B
osch Packaging Technology
platform. The identical process parameters
(Bosch), a leading supplier of
can be directly transferred at a ratio of one
process and packaging technology,
to one, reducing development time. The
will showcase its laboratory expertise
customer also has the opportunity to move
for oral solid dosage (OSD) forms at CPhI
a product either to continuous production
worldwide in Madrid, from 9 to 11 October.
or conventional batch processing.
The new laboratory device, Xelum R&D for continuous manufacturing, will be on open
SUPPORT FROM FORMULATION
display for the first time.
Bosch’s laboratory portfolio supports
Bosch Pharma Service and Industry 4.0
customers in all development and
solutions will also be showcased in terms of
production phases of OSD forms. Roughly
how they support pharma manufacturers in
1 000 experiments with substances for
increasing the transparency and efficiency
various indications are conducted annually
of their laboratory processes.
at the company’s competence centre in
‘With our wide range of laboratory
1
Schopfheim, Germany.
solutions, we offer our customers an ideal starting point for a rapid time to market of their pharmaceutical products,’ says Fritz-Martin Scholz, product manager at the Bosch subsidiary, Hüttlin.
REDUCED DEVELOPMENT TIME The Xelum R&D offers pharma
EVERY PRODUCT DEVELOPED AT THE BOSCH LABORATORY IS TAILORED TO A CUSTOMER’S MACHINES
manufacturers an ideal start to continuous OSD production. ‘This is the first R&D
‘The key to achieving a fast time to market
machine to combine charging, dosing
while meeting the highest quality standards
of several ingredients and blending with
is extensive experience and know-how,’
granulation, drying and discharging in one
says Dr Marcus Knoell, head of pharma
unit,’ Scholz explains. In contrast to continual
service solid at Hüttlin. ‘We offer customers
mass flow, the Xelum R&D doses excipients
everything from a single source – from
and active ingredients as a discrete mass.
formulation and analytical development
In doing so, customers can dose even the
to stability testing, bioequivalence studies
smallest amount of APIs of less than one
and dossier compilation.’ With a specific
percent. Individual packages, the so-called
focus on scale-up and technology transfer,
X-keys, continuously run through the process
every product developed at the Bosch
chain and are removed successively from
laboratory is tailored to a customer’s
the machine as packages into bins.
machines, enabling them to manufacture
The X-key approach makes the product traceable at all times. It reduces
the product in-house.
the system’s failure susceptibility and
SEIZE THE DATA TREASURE
process complexity, while increasing the
At CPhI worldwide, Bosch will also
product’s accuracy and quality. Time
showcase its new data mining service,
consuming scale-up is not needed, since
which evaluates existing machine data
the laboratory device uses the same
to identify and eliminate the source
components as the Xelum production
of problems. ‘Machine deviations are
2 1 The Xelum R&D from Bosch, for the production of OSD forms, ensures a shorter time to market and optimum dosing of the smallest amounts of APIs 2 With the Xelum R&D, Bosch gives pharma manufacturers an ideal start to continuous manufacturing
often classified as “human error” due to misinterpretation or missing information,’ explains Dr Marc Michaelis, expert for continuous production and process verification at Hüttlin. ‘Yet, we assume this is true for no more than 10 percent.’ Bosch’s new data mining tool makes it possible to examine large amounts of data for the smallest effects using statistical methods. ‘This way we can recognise hidden connections and eliminate the cause of failure. Large investments are not required. What it takes is technical expertise and extensive process know-how,’ he adds. ‘Our experts can support pharma manufacturers all over the world to make the most of their existing data.’ •
Bosch Packaging Technology – www.boschpackaging.com
P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |
9
PHARMA FOCUS//Lab Equipment & Services
Breakthrough in standardising
antibiotic susceptibility testing A new study makes recommendations for combining two different methods to test bacterial susceptibility of antibiotics. These suggestions could help improve reproducibility between laboratories and provide more clinically relevant information for treating infections. By Dr Alison Halliday
E
very day, thousands of experimental
growth and even more crucial, MIC testing
and diagnostic laboratories around
is not good at predicting the antibiotic’s
the world carry out antimicrobial
actual effectiveness within the body.
susceptibility testing in search
of an effective antibiotic to use against
A KILLER CONCENTRATION
a bacterial strain. Yet results can vary
Another measure is to define an antibiotic’s
widely between laboratories, prompting
minimal bactericidal concentration (MBC),
the need for standardised protocols to
which outlines the lowest concentration
improve reproducibility and reliability of
needed to kill the bacteria.
ASSESSING BOTH THE MBC AND MIC MAY BE A MORE USEFUL STRATEGY TO DETERMINE THE CLINICAL RELEVANCE OF AN ANTIBIOTIC
This is especially important for patients with inflammatory diseases or who are immunocompromised. Their immune systems may not be working well enough to fully eliminate the pathogens, should an antibiotic only inhibit their growth. To determine the MBC, a test is done
results. One of the main techniques used
to ascertain the lowest concentration of
by laboratories is to measure the minimum
an antibiotic that reduces the number of
inhibitory concentration (MIC).
bacterial colonies on a subculture by
This gauges the lowest antibiotic concentration that inhibits the visible
99.9 percent. However, this test attracts criticism
Elga LabWater’s Purelab flex system is ideal for research laboratories, both technically and aesthetically
variables include the size of the
growth of a microorganism after
due to its poor reproducibility between
inoculum, sample mixing and growth
incubation for 16 to 20 hours. The MIC test
laboratories. MBC testing involves broth
phase of the bacteria.
has limitations. It doesn’t reveal whether
dilution and re-growth of bacteria in
the drug kills the bacteria, or just halts its
antibiotic-free media. The potential
A MERGED APPROACH Assessing both the MBC and MIC may be a more useful strategy to determine the clinical relevance of an antibiotic. A new study, published in the Journal of Microbiological Methods, carried out an objective, detailed comparison of a range of different methodologies to determine the MIC and MBC1. The researchers tested two bacterial strains, P.aeruginosa PA01 and E.coli ATCC 25922, against four antibiotics: 1. gentamicin 2. tobramycin 3. ciprofloxacin 4. colistin. They also tested S.aureus against vancomycin. Preparation and sample analysis protocol involved the use of ultrapure water purified using Purelab Flex apparatus from Elga LabWater. The team determined the MIC using broth microdilution, a calorimetric method
10
| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa
PHARMA FOCUS//Lab Equipment & Services
TRUSTED BY SCIENTISTS across different
REFERENCE:
LABORATORIES AROUND THE world trust lab water
laboratories,
purification systems from Elga LabWater to help their
including a suggested
researchers achieve accurate, reliable results. A specialist in
standardisation of the
approach. Journal of Microbiological Methods 144
lab water, the company has been working with scientists since
time point for reading
(2018), page 177 to 185.
1937 to guarantee pure and ultrapure water for experiments
MIC results after
and lab work. Labotec is the local agent for Elga LabWater,
20 hours.
supplying its water purification systems to customers throughout southern Africa.
This innovative and important study proposes new
and a microscopy-based screening
recommendations
1. Klodzinska et al. Combining diagnostic methods for antimicrobial susceptibility testing – a comparative
ABOUT After completing an undergraduate degree in biochemistry and genetics at Sheffield University (UK), Dr Halliday was awarded a PhD in human molecular genetics at the University of Newcastle (UK). As a University College London senior postdoctoral research fellow, Dr Halliday investigated the genes involved in a childhood obesity syndrome. She then went on to work at Cancer Research UK for 10 years and currently specialises in writing about research in the life sciences, medicines and healthcare sectors.
Buyer’sguide for the best methods to assess
used to determine the MBC and
which antibiotics are effective
subsequently compared with the
against a bacterial strain.
THE
system. Flurophore staining was
broth regrowth method.
These methods will help improve
NEW RECOMMENDATIONS
reproducibility across laboratories,
gain more clinically relevant data and
After evaluating the results, the
enable a better understanding of the
researchers recommended
action of antibiotic drugs.
different combinations of methods
To find out more about laboratory
to determine the MIC and MBC,
water purification systems for your
depending on whether time, cost or
research needs visit www.labotec.co.za,
sensitivity is the main priority.
Elga LabWater’s approved partner in
They also emphasised the importance of uniform protocols
South Africa. For more useful articles, visit www.elgalabwater.com. •
2017/2018
THE
Buyer’sguide 2018/2019
The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry
Available online: www.thebuyersguide.co.za Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1
2018/05/07 3:09 PM
P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |
11
PHARMA FOCUS//Lab Equipment & Services
Syringe pumps based on accuracy and precision
Built for automation in research laboratories, modern syringe pumps are ideal for applications ranging from simple infusions to complex pumping programmes. DG Lab Services reveals how these novel lab tools have evolved over the years.
S
yringe pumps have been used for
pumps for research purposes and
more than 50 years by scientists
patient safety.
and researchers to save lives and conduct high impact research.
VALUE FOR MONEY
They are used to control the flow of fluid
DG Lab Services is a distributor
with a high level of precision.
of the New Era range of
Researchers originally developed
The New Era range of syringe, peristaltic and infusion pumps and accessories for research facilities
syringe, peristaltic and infusion
infusion pumps for controlled drug delivery.
pumps and accessories for research facilities. These
RESEARCH SYRINGE PUMPS ARE USED IN R&D LABORATORIES IN MICROFLUIDICS, CHEMICAL DEVELOPMENT AND MASS SPECTROMETRY
pumps and accessories are available throughout the African market. The company recently sold laboratory equipment to customers in the Seychelles, Botswana and Zambia and is dealing with queries from Namibia.
The first infusion pump was invented by
There are two broad types of syringe
spectrometry where smaller volumes, in the region of nanolitre accuracy, are
Christopher Wren in 1658. According to
pumps, including medical infusion
required. These pumps offer excellent
DG Lab Services, further developments
pumps and research syringe pumps.
value by delivering high end features
continued only in the 20 th century,
Medical infusion pumps are used to
at an affordable price. Their features
progressing from an infusion pump for use
deliver controlled quantities of fluids such
include infusion and withdrawal, a
in chemotherapy to computerised pumps
as nutrients, drugs and blood to patients
computer interface and advanced
and pump miniaturisation – increasing the
where safety is key in order to prevent
programming options. •
use of infusion pumps in research.
any harm or injury. Research syringe
The early 21st century saw the
pumps are used in R&D laboratories
development of smart pumps, which
in applications such as microfluidics,
resulted in increased versatility of these
chemical development and mass
DG Lab Services – www.dglabservices.com
Stability Testing Services, a division of Botanichem, offers a well equipped onsite laboratory for independent stability testing for the cosmetic industry. Stability testing is vital to ensure your product maintains its intended physical, chemical & microbiological quality. We offer: • Stability Testing • Regulatory Labelling • Formulation • Product Information Files for Export FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT ROBYN OR LINA. 011 425 2206 OR 011 425 2648 info@botanichem.co.za / lina@botanichem.co.za
12
| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa
SKIN CARE
Break the mould with
unexpected textures Recognising the demand for skin care products with great textures, Cithrol PGTL – Croda’s new w/o emulsifier – helps formulators include unique sensory benefits in their formulations.
C
ithrol PGTL offers outstanding
that impart a light, non-oily skin feel.
efficiency and versatility. This
Additional applications include more
high-performance system
fluid, sprayable formulations; traditional
is a great alternative to
thick, rich creams and colour cosmetics,
traditional PEG-based systems. It allows
such as foundations.
formulators to unleash their creativity by
To demonstrate the versatility of Cithrol
including unexpected sensory benefits
PGTL, Croda South Africa developed
in formulations. It also contributes
a fresh burst face cream, offering skin
to reduced environmental impact
a new lease on life. Cithrol PGTL is
as it can be formulated using a
used as the w/o emulsifier to create a
cold process.
quick break, refreshing gel cream
Water in oil (w/o)
DID YOU KNOW?
formulations have many advantages, such as greater wear resistance, a richer skin feel and the improved deposition of actives. Yet formulating these emulsions can have
formulation. Hydrating Meiritage protects the skin from oxidative stress caused by
While mass brands dominate the skin care category in Nigeria, Euromonitor International predicts premium products will perform well in 2019. The development of niche areas such as face masks and nourishers is fuelling interest among higher income consumers.
UV and pollution while Phytessence Peach Flower offers urban shield benefits to fight against pollution. See Table 1 for the formulation guide.
MILD AND SUSTAINABLE
certain drawbacks. For example, there may
Cithrol PGTL takes into account
water. In a panel study, Croda assessed the mildness of Cithrol PGTL at a three percent concentration versus other w/o emulsifiers. When comparing the mildness of
be difficulty in achieving stable, thick,
several burning issues, including
Cithrol PGTL to other w/o emulsifiers in a
fluid-like and low viscosity formulations
sustainability, skin sensitivity and
simple emulsion, there was no significant
with a light skin feel. However, with Cithrol
environmental impact. It is 100
difference to the control.
PGTL formulators can overcome these
percent bio-based; manufactured
challenges – and thanks to its flowable
without ethoxylates, propoxylates or
and showed significantly less skin
format, it’s easy to use. Cithrol PGTL is
PEG and cold processable (though
erythema and protein content (skin
effective at low usage levels and doesn’t
this is formulation dependant).
flaking) to that of the water control. •
require the addition of a co-emulsifier.
A VERSATILE SYSTEM It’s a common misconception that w/o emulsions are always thick, heavy and sticky. With Cithrol PGTL, the formulator can get creative and experiment with a large variety
The mildness of the system has also been proven to be comparable to
This high performance
Phase A
B
system is ideal for creating cost-effective high internal phase (HIP) emulsions
Croda – www.crodapersonalcare.com
Table 1: Fresh Burst Face Cream ZA0068
of formulation types and sensorial textures.
Cithrol PGTL had comparable mildness
C
Ingredient/INCI Name
% w/w
Water Deionised (Aqua)
81.20
Pricerine 9091 (Glycerin)
4.20
Magnesium Sulphate Heptahydrate
0.80
Crodamol DA (Diisopropyl Adipate)
3.00
Crodamol OP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate)
2.50
Crodamol EO (Ethyl Oleate)
2.50
Cithrol PGTL (Tri (Polglyceryl-3/Lauryl) Hydrogenated Trilinoleate)
1.00
Meiritage (Glycerin (and) Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract (and) Atractyloides Macrocephala Root Extract (and) Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract)
3.00
Phytessence Peach Flower (Glycerin (and) Water (and) Prunus Persica (Peach) Flower Extract)
1.00
Euxyl PE 9010 (Ethylhexylglycerin (and) Phenoxyethanol)
0.80
P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |
13
SKIN CARE
Changing the
face of beauty
Innovative ingredients are the route to effective product customisation. Karen Maier, Merck’s head of performance materials in South Africa, shares ideas to help formulators better meet the hair and skin care needs of the diverse African market.
B
rands are seeing people as
anti-oxidant properties will not only
effective and completely natural way to
individuals with individual needs,
protect against the ravages of pollution
soothe an irritated scalp. Produced using
driving customisation in the
and UV exposure but also address the
a natural Bisabolol, this product is twice
cosmetics industry. While new
issue of hyperpigmentation. Gone are the
as effective as its synthetic equivalents
days when women with darker skin felt
on the market, guaranteeing twice the
products are being formulated to cater to this trend, it’s important to recognise the differences in the skin of diverse Ethnic groups. People with a specific skin tone have common concerns that formulators should address when
DID YOU KNOW?
pressured to bleach their skin a lighter
impact when it comes to reducing redness,
shade using harsh chemicals. With
soothing inflammation and irritation and
a modern skin brightening active
protecting the scalp against external
In a skin lightening comparison like Emblica, women can safely test between Emblica, MAP and and gently even out their skin Kojic acid, Emblica was proven efficient for different Ethnic skins. At tone. With its excellent skin one percent, it produced similar or lightening properties, it has superior skin lightening effects been proven to safely bring than achieved with two percent Kojic acid or three about a significant reduction percent MAP.
aggressors. To address dandruff and a flaking scalp, RonaCare Salicylic Acid and RonaCare Allantoin are the go-to ingredients. They gently exfoliate and soften the scalp while dispersing existing flakes offering relief and enhanced beauty with
in pigmentation. Due to its strong
developing
no unsightly skin shedding.
anti-oxidant properties, Emblica also prevents the re-occurrence of UV induced
TO CARE AND PROTECT
dark spots. Hydration is another important
While there are many singularities when
set of unique challenges, such as hyper
topic in Ethnic skin care. The multi-
it comes to different skin and hair types, we
pigmentation, greater sensitivity to UVA and
talented RonaCare Ectoin provides just
are more similar than we are
ambient light, a compromised skin barrier
the right amount of long lasting hydration
that can lead to transepidermal water
and protection.
new products. Darker or Ethnic skin types have their own
to consider these issues when selecting
CALM AND NOURISH
different and the basics should never Chemsystems, Consumer Spe Chemsystems, Consumer trusted distributor and localSpe ma be overlooked. trusted distributor and local main and commodity raw materials Whatever the skin tone; need for UV and raw materials in and commodity Homecare industry offering and Homecare protection, moisture retention and deep industry offering
ingredients for Ethnic skin care formulations.
Emblica is not only good for skin but also
•• Glycerine cleansing, caring for stressed and sensitive Propylene Glycol
loss and atopic dermatitis. It’s important
• Glycerine
•• Antiperspirant Propylene Glycol Actives nourishes and strengthens hair from root skin in our modern, mostly polluted •• Antiperspirant Emulsifiers Actives • Emulsifiers • Emollients EVEN TONE, HYDRATED SKIN to tip. When combined with RonaCare environment should remain the main priority Esters Chemsystems, Consumer Consumer Specialities Specialities division, division, is is a •• Emollients One approach is to use a multi-functional Nicotinamide, the complexChemsystems, improves hair of the cosmetics industry.a• •• Esters Modifiers trusted distributor distributor and and local local manufacturer manufacturer of of speciality speciality• Rheology trusted Rheology Modifiers Polymers active ingredient like Emblica. This 100 quality and assists in damage andrecovery. commodity raw raw materials materials into into the the Personal Personal Care Care •• Hair Hair Polymers and commodity • Proteins “OurMerck expertise, your solution” – www.merck4cosmetics.com and Homecare industry offering: Proteins “Ouroffering: expertise, your solution” percent natural extract with its cascading RonaCare Bisabolol offers aand particularly •• Emulsifying Waxes Homecare industry • EmulsifyingActives Waxes Chemsystems, Specialities• Sunscreen division, is a • Glycerine • Range Consumer of Surfactants • Glycerine • Range of Surfactants • Sunscreen Actives Chemsystems, Consumer division, is a • Silicones and • Propylene Glycol trusted •distributor and localSpecialities manufacturer of speciality Silicones and • Propylene Glycol distributor and local manufacturer of speciality • Antiperspirant Activestrusted Silicone additives commodity materials into the Personal Care • Antiperspirant Activesand Siliconeraw additives and raw materials into the Personal Care • Emulsifiers • Preservatives/Biocides and commodity Homecare industry offering: • Emulsifiers • Preservatives/Biocides and Homecare industry offering: • Emollients • Conditioning agents • Emollients • Conditioning agents • Glycerine • Range of Surfactants • Esters • Concentrated • Glycerine •• Range of and Surfactants • Esters • Concentrated Silicones Glycol • Rheology Modifiers •• Propylene blends such as body • Silicones and Propylene Glycol Thureya Sarlie • Rheology Modifiers • Antiperspirant blends such as body Actives Silicone additives • Hair Polymers lotions, conditioners, Thureya Sarlie • Antiperspirant Actives Silicone additives Chemsystems, Consumer Specialities division, is aPolymers • Emulsifiers • Preservatives/Biocides • Hair lotions, Tel +27 (0)11conditioners, 922 1636 • Proteins antiperspirants etc. Conditioning agents “Our expertise, expertise, your your solution” solution” •• Emulsifiers Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 Emollients • Proteins antiperspirants etc.•• Preservatives/Biocides “Our trusted distributor and local manufacturer of speciality Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za • Emulsifying Waxes •• Emollients • Botanicals •• Conditioning Esters Concentratedagents Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za • Emulsifying Waxes • Botanicals and commodity raw materials into the Personal Care •• Esters • Concentrated • Sunscreen Actives • Actives Rheology Modifiers blends such as body Chemsystems, Consumer Specialities division, isActives a • Sunscreen • Actives
Chemsystems, Consumer Specialities division, is a and Homecare industry offering: trusted distributor and local manufacturer of speciality
trusted distributor and local manufacturer of speciality “Our expertise, your solution” and commodity commodity raw raw materials into the the Personal Personal Care • Glycerine and • Range of Surfactants “Our expertise, your solution” materials into Care and Homecare industry offering: • Propylene Glycol • Silicones and and Homecare industry offering: • Antiperspirant Actives Silicone additives • Glycerine • Range of Surfactants • Range of Surfactants • Emulsifiers •• Glycerine Propylene Glycol • Preservatives/Biocides • Silicones and Glycol • Silicones and • Emollients •• Propylene • Conditioning agents Thureya Sarlie Antiperspirant Actives Silicone additives Thureya Sarlie • Antiperspirant Actives Silicone additives • Esters • 922 Concentrated • Emulsifiers • Preservatives/Biocides Tel +27 (0)11 1636 • Emulsifiers • Preservatives/Biocides Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 blends such as body agents • Rheology Modifiers • Emollients • Conditioning Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za • Emollients • Conditioning agents Email • Concentrated • Esters • Hair Polymers lotions, conditioners, • Concentrated • Esters • Rheology Modifiers blends such as body • Proteins • Rheology Modifiers antiperspirants “Our expertise, your solution” blendsetc. such as body Shonna Twynham Hair Polymers lotions, conditioners, • Botanicalslotions, • Emulsifying••Waxes Shonna Twynham Hair Polymers conditioners, • Proteins antiperspirants etc. “Our expertise, expertise, your your solution” solution” Tel +27 +27 (0)11 (0)11• 922 922 1600 1600antiperspirants • Sunscreen Actives • aProteins etc. Chemsystems, “Our Consumer Specialities division, isActives Tel • Emulsifying Waxes
•• Rheology Modifiers blends as body Shonna Twynham Hair Polymers lotions, such conditioners, Shonna Twynham •• Hair conditioners, Proteins antiperspirants etc. TelPolymers +27 (0)11 922 1600lotions, •• Proteins etc. Sarlie Tel +27shonna.twynham@chemsystems.co.za (0)11 Emulsifying Waxes 922 1600 • antiperspirants Botanicals Thureya Johannesburg Email •• Emulsifying Waxes •• Actives Botanicals Sunscreen Actives Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 Email shonna.twynham@chemsystems.co.za • Sunscreen Actives • Actives
• Botanicals
Email shonna.twynham@chemsystems.co.za shonna.twynham@chemsystems.co.za • Emulsifying Waxes • Botanicals trusted distributor and local manufacturer of speciality Email • Sunscreen Actives • Actives • Sunscreen Actives • Actives and commodity raw materials into the Personal Care and Homecare industry offering: • Glycerine • Range of Surfactants • Propylene Glycol • Silicones and Thureya Sarlie • Antiperspirant Actives Silicone additives • Emulsifiers Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 | P C Africa 14 | QUARTER 3 2018 • Preservatives/Biocides • Emollients • Conditioning agents Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za • Esters • Concentrated • Rheology Modifiers blends such as body
Johannesburg Thureya Sarlie
+27 (0)11 922 1636 AECI Chempark, 200Tel Bergrivier Drive, Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za Chloorkop, Kempton Park, 1624 AECI Chempark, 200 Bergrivier Drive, Chloorkop, Kempton Park, 1624
Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za Johannesburg Thureya Sarlie Johannesburg Thureya Sarlie
Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 AECI Chempark, Chempark, 200 Bergrivier Drive, Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 AECI Chempark, 200 Bergrivier Drive, AECI 200 Bergrivier Drive, Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za Email thureya.sarlie@chemsystems.co.za Chloorkop, Kempton Park, Park, 1624 Chloorkop, Kempton Chloorkop, Kempton Park, 1624 AECI Chempark, 200 Bergrivier Drive, 1624 AECI Chempark, 200 Bergrivier Drive, Chloorkop, Kempton Park, 1624 Chloorkop, Kempton Park, 1624
www.chemsystems.co.za www.chemsystems.co.za Chemsystems, a division of AECI
Chemsystems, aa division division of of AECI AECI Chemsystems,
• Ran •• Ran Silic • Silic Silic • Silic Pres •• Pres Con •• Con Con • Con blen blen lotio lotio antip • antip Bota •• Activ Bota • Activ
Email thu thu Email
AECI C AECI C
AE AE Ch Ch 16 Che 16 Che
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SKIN CARE
Halal ingredients from Symrise Are you looking for Halal ingredients for your skin care formulations? Symrise produces more than 200 products that comply with Islamic law.
A
s a global supplier of
assist with antimicrobial product and skin
cosmetics ingredients,
protection. These Frescolat products mostly
ingredients includes actives, emollients,
Symrise understands the
offer multifunctional benefits. Hydrolite 5
solubilisers, UV filters and plant extracts all
specific requirements of
green improves the look, consistency and
with HALAL certification. Due to the globally
the Islamic population and provides a
protects a formulation while SymClariol is
sustained growth of the Muslim population,
comprehensive palette of Halal certified
a multifunctional ingredient suited to oily
the demand for products made in line with
products. Its manufacturing facilities
scalp and anti-dandruff applications.
Islamic regulations will continue to be in
in Singapore and its headquarters in Holzminden, Germany comply with
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
Halal guidelines.
The company produces high performance
Symrise offers more than compliant 200
Symrise’s extensive range of cosmetics
greater demand. In response, Symrise is constantly working to expand its range of Halal products. •
actives proven to care and protect the
products, which meet the personal care
skin against the visible signs of ageing.
needs of Muslim consumers.
They also meet market demands in
Symrise – www.symrise.com
terms of sensitive skin, protection against
FUNCTIONAL INGREDIENTS
environmental pollution and address
With its extensive product range, Symrise
skin pigmentation or oily skin. SymCalmin
offers a great variety of ingredients for
calms skin irritations and soothes redness,
skin and hair care applications. The
which can occur due to the build-up of
Frescolat range of ingredients provides
sweat. The SymHair range is for hair care
cooling and refreshing benefits. In the
products. These ingredients protect hair
established micro protection category,
from dust and breakage and improve
Symrise offers a full set of ingredients to
shine and combability.
Crest Chemicals
Your Trusted Advisor PG USP applications Aerosols Shaving Products Haircare Skincare Oral-care Pharmaceutical Cosmetic 2 year shelf life Inherent Antimicrobial properties Contact us: Johannesburg (011)254 3300, Cape Town (021)534 3140, Durban (031)9025324, East London (043) 726 8713 and Port Elizabeth (041)453 1981
BETTER TOGETHER P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |
15
SKIN CARE
A sustainable and modern alternative to Lanolin
Softisan 649 embraces all three pillars of sustainability. Although not fully natural, this competitive raw material is a market leading substitute for animal-derived Lanolin. Dr Fernando Ibarra, personal care business director at IOI Oleo reveals why.
S
ustainability and raw materials
from various plants. The raw material is
of natural origin dominate
manufactured in Germany according to
cosmetics industry trends. While
Pharma GMP and RSPO SCCS standards.
consumers often confuse the
A 100 percent natural claim is not
underlying meaning of sustainability
recommended for this product because
with a superficial idea of plant derived
one of the starting raw materials makes
ingredients, business leaders in various
Softisan only 85 percent natural. Yet this
industries have adopted a more holistic
doesn’t mean it’s not a green product.
approach. In sustainability, ecological, economic and social aspects are inclusive. These three pillars need to be viewed in unison to achieve the true meaning of sustainability. Interpreted in the realistic world of cosmetics manufacturing, formulators’ sustainability efforts are usually
EVERY FORMULATOR KNOWS THERE IS A PRICE TO PAY FOR ECOLOGICAL SUSTAINABILITY
one directional, including as many vegetable based ingredients as possible
According to ISO 16128, it is considered
generated through the sheep’s
on a label and often neglecting the three
a naturally derived ingredient. The only
overexposure to pollution, sun and
pillars. This is because, although the
non-vegetable part in the complex
other harsh environmental conditions.
three parts are connected, sometimes
structure is Adipic Acid, which is easily
Considering the three sustainability
they are conflicting. Every formulator
found in nature, but not in quantities that
pillars, the potential risks linked to
knows there is a price to pay for
permit viable commercial extraction. To
exposing consumers to these undesirable
ecological sustainability, especially when
produce Softisan 649, we use a nature-
chemicals should be avoided. This not
focussing on primarily vegetable based
identical Adipic Acid (produced from a
only respects the social pillar but also the
raw materials, fair trade ingredients
petrochemical source) and other fully
ecological one.
or RSPO certified palm oil derivatives.
natural starting materials.
This could jeopardise the economic
IOI Oleo, a CJP Chemicals principle,
In the refining process, raw Lanolin is cleaned and the residues supposedly
sustainability of a business due to the
originally launched Softisan 649 as a
removed. Yet the product (see Figure
high prices of raw materials.
substitute for animal-derived Lanolin
1) has an undesirable appearance
because it mimics Lanolin’s excellent
and odour profile. Although very good
Polyacyladipate-2) is well suited to the
skin protection, moisturising and film-
qualities of USP grade Lanolin are
three pillars. It has been the global
forming benefits.
available on the market, it comes at a
Softisan 649 (INCI: Bis-Diglyceryl
cosmetics industry’s most popular
Lanolin is a 100 percent natural product
steeply fluctuating price. This results in
Lanolin-replacer for many years but it
derived from sheep’s wool. Although
an expensive end product, which is not
is not a 100 percent plant derived raw
the animals are not harmed during
sustainable in the long run.
material. It was originally developed
production, most consumers prefer not
as a speciality ingredient and didn’t
to use animal derived products on their
specifically follow the green trend. Yet it
skin. Instead, they prefer vegetable
QUALITY MEETS FUNCTIONALITY
fits in perfectly with the demand for safe,
derived ingredients, sometimes even
Developments in the Lanolin market
high quality and sustainable ingredients,
certified vegan. The extraction process
in recent years have highlighted the
which are competitive.
and nature of Lanolin’s origin results in
importance of economic sustainability.
production issues. While the sheep’s wool
Following concerns about Lanolin
is cleaned of any dirt, the raw Lanolin
contamination, the demand for better
is collected. This heavily contaminated
quality has increased and so has the price.
NOT FULLY NATURAL BUT TRULY SUSTAINABLE Softisan 649 is largely based on vegetable derived ingredients sourced
16
| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa
product contains natural residues and a host of undesirable chemicals
Although Softisan 649 is produced using pharma GMP and is sold in the
SKIN CARE Figure 1:
Figure 2:
The associated claims of Softisan 649 include skin protection, moisturisation, wear resistance and substantivity in lipsticks or sun care products. It also offers film-forming and texturising Comparison between vegetable based Softisan 649 (left) and a commercially available cosmetic grade of animal-derived Lanolin (right). Note the significant difference in colour between the two raw materials which is caused by the natural and environmental contaminants that regularly occur in Lanolin
A cream with five percent Softisan 649 (left) and the same formulation with five percent of a commercially available cosmetic grade Lanolin (right). A yellowish discolouration is visible in the cream containing Lanolin
benefits when used in hair styling products. Because the raw material is multifunctional, it helps manufacturers reduce their inventory of ingredients – once again making it truly sustainable for pharma and cosmetics products. •
pharma industry, its price as a high
The mildness and excellent skin
quality cosmetics ingredient remains
compatibility of Softisan 649 has
unaffected. Stable and competitive
led to its use in many pharma
pricing with no risk of contamination,
applications, including wound
Softisan 649 has been used in
dressings. As a protective film
various applications as a Lanolin
former, it is a suitable ingredient for
replacement. This is because Lanolin’s
ointments that address problematic
strong odour profile and stark yellow
skin. It can also be formulated in
appearance are a strong deterrent
various protective creams and is
from a formulator’s perspective.
mild enough for sensitive skins and
While a white and non-odorous final
baby products. The versatility and
product is desired, the formulator has
potential of Softisan 649 is proven
to compromise on the final product’s
by its use in thousands of products
appearance, which is slightly off white
already on the market, ranging from
to yellow when formulating with Lanolin
skin care to colour cosmetics and
(see Figure 2).
hair care products.
WE CARE
CJP Chemicals – www.cjp.co.za IOI Oleo – www.ioioleo.de
ABOUT Fernando Ibarra has a PhD in organic chemistry from the University of Hamburg. He first worked in nanotechnology and the pharma industry, after which he made the move to personal care more than 10 years ago. Ibarra joined IOI Oleo in 2014 in his current role of business director.
BEAUTY
SOFTISAN® 649 THE VEGAN ALTERNATIVE FOR LANOLIN
FILM FORMING AND MOISTURIZING FROM VEGETABLE SOURCES, NON-ANIMAL DERIVED NO SMELL, NO COLOR, NO CONTAMINATION A 100% CLEAN PRODUCT FOR MODERN PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS
IOI Oleo GmbH
PERSONAL CARE
P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |
17
SKIN CARE
A treasure chest of beneficial plants
Lipotec has developed novel skin care extracts from three plants found in the Asia-Pacific region. The extracts of lemon myrtle, spikenard and artemisia respectively showed antiinflammatory, brightening and antimicrobial benefits. Each extract has been titrated and is supported by in vitro efficacy test data.
A
ctismart lemon myrtle, an extract of the Backhousia citridora plant native to Australia,
is well documented for its use in aboriginal traditional medicine. It is characterised by quercitrin, a glycoside of the quercetin flavonoid. The extract has shown to act on different molecular mechanisms that lead to inflammation and sensitive skin. A key element of inflammatory
Lemon myrtle (Backhousia citridora)
Artemisia (Artemisia annua)
response is the inflammasome
Cells from a basophil cell line (RBL-2H3)
production and distribution, which results
intracellular complex. The inflammasome
were coated with an IgE antibody against
in skin pigmentation. They are located in
initiates caspase-1 self-cleavage, leading to
DNP and treated for 20 minutes with one or
the basal layer of the epidermis, producing
the formation of the active caspase-1. This
two percent of the active ingredient. Cell
melanin within melanosomes with the
proteolytically activates proteins, interleukin-
degranulation was stimulated with DNP
help of enzymes like tyrosinase. Pigment-
1ß (IL-1ß) and IL-18, making them biologically
for one hour and the release evaluated by
containing melanosomes are transferred to
active and induces their release for a
measuring enzymatic activity. Compared
neighbouring keratinocytes, distributing the
subsequent inflammatory response.1
to the control, Actismart lemon myrtle at
pigment in the upper layers of the skin.
Mast cells, also known as granulocytes,
concentrations of one and two percent
Melanogenesis is regulated by signalling
are found in the skin and contain pro-
reduced the release of ß-hexosaminidase by
molecules produced and released by
inflammatory mediators such as the
37.7 and 54 percent respectively, indicating
keratinocytes as part of the paracrine
ß-hexosaminidase enzyme and histamine.
a decrease in mast cell degranulation for a
communication between keratinocytes
These mediators form part of the itching
skin soothing effect.
and melanocytes. Endothelin-1 (ET-1) is
response. Their release, or degranulation,
The levels of interleukin-1ß and
secreted by the keratinocytes and binds
can further induce the production of pro-
interleukin-18 were evaluated by an enzyme-
to specific receptors in the melanocytes
inflammatory cytokines, which potentiate the
linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) after
(ETBR), leading to increased melanocyte
inflammatory response.2
treating human keratinocytes with Actismart
proliferation and melanin synthesis and
lemon myrtle for 24 hours, followed by UVB
enhanced skin pigmentation.3,4 Gene
myrtle on the downregulation of key
irradiation. Non-irradiated cells were used as
expression modulation was studied
inflammasome genes, human epidermal
a control. The botanical extract significantly
by means of microarray analysis on
keratinocytes were treated for 24 hours with
reduced the levels of IL-1ß and IL-18 after
keratinocytes treated for 24 hours with one
one percent of the active ingredient. The
UVB irradiation, showing a potential anti-
percent Actismart spikenard. Expression of
modulation of gene expression was studied
inflammatory effect.
the gene coding for endothelin-1 (ET-1) was
To test the efficacy of Actismart lemon
by microarray analysis. IL1ß, CASP1 and NLRP3 gene expression
ACTISMART SPIKENARD
downregulated by 33.7 percent (statistical significance: p<0.0001), suggesting a
showed a statistically significant decrease
Nardostachys jatamansi is one of the most
paracrine regulation of the function
of 20.3, 64.0 and 52.7 percent respectively.
cherished and rare Himalayan herbs,
of melanocytes.
The inhibition of inflammasome gene
traditionally used in Ayurveda. Commonly
expression suggested a decrease in the
known as spikenard, Lipotec used the plant
treated with 0.05 percent Actismart
inflammatory response. Actismart lemon
to develop Actismart spikenard. This active
spikenard, while control cells were treated
myrtle’s ability to inhibit ß-hexosaminidase
is characterised by the sesquiterpene
with a medium. Cell treatments were
release was also tested. The release
desoxo-narchinol A and has shown to
repeated every two to three days for 13
mediated by immunoglobulin E (IgE) was
minimise melanin production. Melanocytes
days. Melanin was extracted from the cells
used as a marker of mast cell degranulation.
are key players in the process of melanin
and quantified by absorbance.
18
| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa
Primary human melanocytes were
SKIN CARE Figure 1: Human melanocytes at the end of the treatment
After the treatment, melanin content decreased by 18.2 percent, showing a direct action within melanocytes to reduce skin pigmentation (see Figure 1).
ACTISMART ARTEMISIA Commonly used in traditional Chinese medicine, Actismart artemisia is an extract of Artemisia annua. A Nobel prize winning
0.05 PERCENT ACTISMART SPIKENARD
CONTROL
anti-malarial drug was also discovered analysis. At the end of the treatment,
ingredients are available throughout
S100A9 and S100A8 were significantly
southern Africa from Savannah
its total flavonoid content and has been
upregulated by 106.7 and 154.0 percent
Fine Chemicals. •
demonstrated to induce calprotectin – an
respectively, suggesting the potential
antimicrobial peptide that protects the
antimicrobial activity of the active.
using this plant. Actismart artemisia is characterised by
skin against pathogens. As part of the
To determine the amount of
innate defence mechanism, antimicrobial
calprotectin using an ELISA, human
peptides are secreted by cells and present
epidermal keratinocytes were again
a broad antibacterial activity. They are
treated with Actismart artemisia for 24
key to protecting the skin from external
hours. Flagellin was used as a positive
microorganisms. Calprotectin consists of a
control, since it has been demonstrated
complex formed by two binding proteins,
to induce the expression of S100A8 and
S100A8 and S100A9.5
S100A9.
Human epidermal keratinocytes were
Lipotec – www.lipotec.com Savannah – www.savannah.co.za REFERENCES: 1. Latz E, et al. Activation and regulation of the inflammasomes. Nat Rev Immunol. 13(6); doi:10.1038/nri3452, 2013. 2. Amin K. The role of mast cells in allergic inflammation. Respiratory Medicine. 106:9 to 14, 2012. 3. Yamaguchi Y, Hearing VJ. Physiological factors that regulate skin pigmentation. Biofactors. 35(2): 193 to 199, 2009.
The results showed cells treated
4. Hirobe T. Keratinocytes regulate the function of melanocytes. Dermatologica Sinica; 32(4): 200-4, 2014.
treated for 24 hours with 0.5 percent
with Actismart artemisia increased
Actismart artemisia and gene expression
their calprotectin content in a dose-
(Calprotectin) is upregulated by bacterial flagellin in human
modulation was studied using microarray
dependent manner. Lipotec’s active
epidermal keratinocytes.
5. Abtin A. The antimicrobial heterodimer S100A8/S100A9
A selection of unique botanicals from around the world prized for their beauty-enhancing, spiritual and natural benefits.
All trademarks owned by The Lubrizol Corporation or its affiliates.© 2018 The Lubrizol Corporation.
Sin título-4 1
28/08/2018 11:53:38
P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |
19
SKIN CARE
A specialist solution for sensitive African skin French pharmacy brand, Mixa was launched in Africa in March. These body care products promise to improve the quality of sensitive skin. By Abby Vorster
M
ixa was first developed in 1924
L’Oréal conducted a series of clinical
Nigeria), irritation (25 percent), itching
by French pharmacist, Dr
studies on dry and sensitive skin in the
(24 percent) and sun burn (22 percent
Roger, who mixed ingredients
South African and Pan African markets.
and predominant in South Africa).
to create a specialist
Dr Evanson Kamuri, chairman of the
Mixa’s efficacy on African skins was
ointment for severely dry, rough hands.
Dermatologist Association of Kenya,
also tested in clinical studies, with the
He used a unique mixing technique,
shared key study insights at the
following findings:
which inspired the brand’s
L’Oréal Skin Symposium on
• relief was evident by day seven
name – Mixa. Owned and
2 September, which formed part of the
• 30 to 100 percent of the volunteers
distributed by L’Oréal, Mixa
African Society of Dermatology and
is ideal for sensitive and
Venereology congress that took place
dry African skin.
in South Africa.
In conjunction with Sagaci Research,
| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa
skin dryness • desquamation or skin peeling was
KEY CONSUMER INSIGHTS Sunlight and soap are pinpointed as
20
experienced significant relief of
improved among >60 percent of the volunteers • in Senegal, volunteers noted the high
primary aggressors of
level of cold sensitivity was relieved.
sensitive skin.
While the range of Mixa body creams
The most typical
is fully imported, L’Oréal is looking to
symptoms are
develop more relevant Mixa branded
allergic reactions
products for the African market by
(26 percent and
producing line extensions in Kenya,
predominant in
South Africa and the Ivory Coast. •
PACKAGING
Robotics – At the end of the line Unilever has established a US$272 million manufacturing plant in the UAE. It is said to be the largest personal care facility in the Middle East and Africa.
G
lobal consumer goods
line performance of two packaging
companies like Unilever
lines, which bottle shampoo and
are investing billions of
conditioner products.
dollars in the Middle East.
Gebo Cermex played a crucial role
‘We have a unique capability to propose complete end of line
in the launch of Unilever’s new facility
solutions for unstable bottles or bottles
in Dubai, installing two comprehensive
with complex shapes. This involves
end of line technologies for the
preventing mass flow accumulation.
production of shaped bottles for
Unilever’s expectations on line speed
shampoo and conditioner. The lines
and maximum time for changeovers
can handle eight formats from 100 to
challenged our design department to
900mℓ per line at 350 products per
stretch the boundaries of the current
minute. This is combined with multiple
range and to merge modules and
10-minute changeovers per day. The
technologies,’ says Jean-Philippe
a single universal gripping head
facility is also designed to reduce waste
Beduneau, strategic key account
for all eight formats. Design experts
and energy consumption, in line with
director for Unilever at Gebo Cermex.
developed a 3D-printed, light-
the Unilever Sustainable Living Plan via which the company aims to significantly reduce its environmental impact. Unilever will mark products
Robotics at work
weighted tooling solution, which
AUTOMATED, SIMPLIFIED AND ECO-FRIENDLY
will reduce energy consumption by optimising the robot size.
To facilitate fast changeovers,
manufactured at the factory with a
the company took a robotic
‘Made in UAE’ stamp, acknowledging
approach at the product
the strong trade corridor the UAE offers,
collation stage. Its
connecting the east and western parts
designers removed
were further simplified by integrating
Since simplicity in this highly
DID YOU KNOW?
complex line is a key factor, the changeovers can be orchestrated
to Unilever across different production
directly via the HMI without a Spanning 100 000m2, the need for manual intervention. Unilever plant is set to deliver the many mechanical For shrink-wrapping, a highest annual output of parts typically thermo-sealing solution was 100 000t of beauty and personal used, ensuring easy implemented for high quality care products in liquid format access to the heart packs. In case erecting, for the Dove, Fair & Lovely, of the machine and a Lifebuoy, Vaseline, Clear, packing, case sealing and TRESemme and Sunsilk streamlined solution. palletising, changes were applied brands. Unilever and the experts to fulfil the changeover needs with for robotics and shrinkuniversal systems.
lines. These include packers and
wrapping opted for six robots using
The packer is a secure pick
shrink wrappers to pack premium
FlowDesigner. This is Gebo Cermex’s
and place solution with a gantry
pots of skin cream or tubs of facial
flow management and product
case packer. It allows for fast and
cream in cartons. Unilever relied on
tracking intelligence system for gentle
simple changeovers owing to its
the engineering and robotic expertise
bottle handling and continuous
quick release system for tooling.
of Gebo Cermex to secure the end of
batch preparation. Changeovers
The case erector and case sealer
of the region. It will export 80 percent of these products to the MENA region and Europe.
A FACTORY FIT FOR A GROWING MARKET Gebo Cermex supplied 19 machines
reliably work at a notable speed of 40cpm. A shock-free, electronic spacer infeed system secures high product protection at the layer preparation of the high level, layer by layer palletiser. •
Gebo Cermex – www.gebocermex.com The new plant in Dubai
P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |
21
PACKAGING
Go provocative, choose eye catching labels Adding a foil finish is an effective way to enhance the quality of a label. P&C Review Africa explores the differences of cold and hot foil techniques and delves into a label system providing increased flexibility while reducing maintenance.
T
o produce cold foiled labels
can be produced in any colour, silver
a versatile approach. According
a metallic foil is applied onto
and gold remain popular
to Boyd Haley, GM at Dash Labels,
various materials, adding
options. Although hot foil is
the company’s popular labels are
to the appearance of the
suitable for rough or textured
both cold and hot foiled labels,
final product. The procedure uses a
surfaces, the requirement is that
most often used on cosmetics
special glue cured by UV light.
cold foil be applied to a smooth
packaging. These provide
A cold foil consists of a semi-
label surface. This is because a
premium finishes and are suitable
transparent single layer of film thin
label needs to be laid as lay flat
for pharmaceutical products. ‘If
enough for light to penetrate it.
as possible once it is applied. The
there is a requirement for smaller
advantage of cold foiling is it can
text, dots, circles or lines to be
Hot foil stamping uses specially cut metal dies, affixing a thin foil using
be applied at a higher resolution,
heat and pressure. The foil comprises
over a larger area and more
a pattern or text and although these
precisely. Cold foil printing provides
Boyd Haley
applied to a bigger pack area, the cold process is the ideal fit. We produce all labels to customer requirements for hair care, beauty or pharmaceutical products. Our offerings are unique. We pride ourselves on the service and quality offered. We also prefer to remain specialised by servicing
Achieve flexible production
medium sized companies.’ Dash Labels’ print capacity for
with integrated robotics solutions
specialised industries is unlimited. It has a purpose built facility in Gauteng, South Africa and services a vast client base in Mozambique, Botswana, Swaziland, Seychelles, Ghana, Mauritius and Tanzania.
LATEST ROLL-FED CONCEPT Sacmi has redesigned the mechanical and electronical configuration of its latest Roll-Fed labeller. This includes the look of the machine, its base, labelling Delta Parallel robot Quattro and Hornet
Articulated robot Viper
SCARA robot eCobra
Mobile robot LD Series
The new Omron Robotic Automation enhances the most demanding manufacturing lines. Realize faster line start-up & change-over, implement easier to use technology & vertical line integration, and facilitate faster data capture & analysis to increase your in-line efficiency. Our industrial robotics range from articulated, SCARA, and DELTA to collaborative (mobile) robots that optimize the handling of varying lot sizes and diverse products, formats and qualities. Achieve flexible production with integrated robotics solutions that give you a competitive edge! Discover how to improve your flexible production, contact us: +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za
robot_88,5x130_p&c_review_ad_enza_01.indd 22 | QUARTER 3 2018 | 1 P C Africa
20-07-17 12:52
PACKAGING
DID YOU KNOW?
COSMETICS LABELS MUST INCLUDE
• the name and physical street address of the manufacturer or the distributor of the product in the country in which it’s being sold • an expiry date if the minimum period of durability is less than 30 months • the name of the product and its nominal quantity in the container when packaged • precautions and warning statement for use • the product function, if it’s not already apparent from its presentation e.g. cleanser or toner • a batch number for traceability • a list of all ingredients used to compound the product in INCI nomenclature at the correct levels where required by regulatory stipulation. The correct INCI names may be obtained from the most recent version of the Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook as published by the Personal Care Products Council of America.
in the redesign. The conservation and improvement of the main Sacmi machine
Hot foiling was originally known as foil blocking. The process is centuries old and was modernised for the possible insertion of in the ’30s, making it more cost-effective other labelling stations. It is and less labour also easy to setup. With the intensive. ever evolving labelling market,
advantages based vast
this machine must be equipped
experience with thousands of
to accept many important and quick
successful installations worldwide, and the implementation of improvements based
changes, enabling unlimited flexibility. ‘The end user or label supplier is provided
on the latest technological innovations in
a number of possibilities. A second roll fed
the machinery industry.
labelling station can be added for higher
The main goal chieved by the company is
speeds. The layout provides increased
that the system has a ‘family look’. It has the
flexibility for the addition or exchange of
appearance of a standard Sacmi machine.
other labelling technologies and less space
New electronic architecture has been
is occupied within the line layout. If need
added and the labelling process has been
be, clients can request the fixed labelling
improved. It also has a common chassis for
station becomes a modular labelling
all technologies.
station,’ Botha adds.
Divian Botha, technical sales engineer
Films on the machine can be managed
at Millchem, a Sacmi agent, discusses the
because of the improved, high speed label
machine’s ergonomics: ‘This user friendly
film speed control and automatic label
roll-fed labeller enhances accessibility
splicing. With this feature, the client can run
and safety while simplifying setup and
labels of reduced thicknesses and heights.
reducing maintenance for an operator. By
‘Optimised label film buffers with
implementing a few changes, the machine
improved label film tension control and
is more user-friendly.’
an accurate pneumatic system are
It comprises a round, smaller machine
fundamentals in managing label films.
base with a compact layout. Less noise
It is also pertinent to have the label film
stations and electronics. The labeller was
is produced and better maintenance
area increased and to have a pinch roller
developed to satisfy the growing demand
accessibility is maintained without the need
with low inertia providing the possibility of
for a simple, safe and reliable machine. It
for lubrication. The roll-fed labeller’s base is
running labels of reduced thicknesses
is described as an ideal solution for end
raised on a single block providing integrated
and heights,’ he concludes. •
users who want to exploit the advantages
protection of the machine frame and
of roll-fed labelling. Variations of the hot
electrical cabinet.
melt glue or label material characteristics have little effect on the machines output. Two main guidelines were used
The labelling station can be positioned at a different angle around the machine or as a central carousel, which frees up space
Dash Labels – www.dashlabels.co.za Millchem – www.millchem.co.za
Trim size – 65mm (H) x 177mm (W)
BEST VALUE GUARANTEED. In a world where you get what you pay for, we are commited to ensuring the best product delivered at the best price possible. No compromise. Experts in Shrink Sleeve, Wrap Around & Pressure Sensitive Labels
For further information on how we can help build your brand contact our Project Developement team on Tel 031 502 5050 email: info@labelprint.co.za www.labelprint.co.za
Siyakha Imperial Printing Co. Imperial Building 12 Fairway Avenue Mt Edgecombe, Durban, KZN Tel: 031 502 5050 Fax: 031 502 4640
P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |
23
TRANSPORT & LOGISTICS
Manage your load with reliable door systems and docking solutions The seamless distribution of goods from source to final destination requires careful planning and management at the point of loading and offloading. Maxiflex offers a range of industrial door and loading dock solutions that cater to the diverse requirements of distribution and logistics.
R
ugged, efficient and reliable door systems are a critical link in the distribution chain. The entry and exit points through which goods
are moved are normally large; alongside the admission of wind, dust, insects and birds, internally controlled hot or cold air escapes through these portals increasing
Industrial door and loading dock solutions from Maxiflex for distribution and logistics facilities
utility costs or causing product damage. ‘Defined by their efficiency, robustness,
certification for water tightness, wind load
provide weather protection during loading
flexibility, convenience and safety, our
and air permeability and deliver the lowest
and unloading. Should a vehicle deviate
door solutions help maintain better
possible operating cost.
from the dock-in centre line and hit the
control and protection of goods,
As the exclusive distributor of ASSA Abloy
shelter frame, built-in springs allow the
handling equipment and the work force,’
entrance systems in sub-Saharan Africa,
shelter to follow the movement without
comments Bram Janssen, MD of Maxiflex.
Maxiflex’s product portfolio for storage and
being damaged.
‘Our door systems are engineered to
loading dock applications is extensive.
deliver efficient and reliable performance even under extremely high workloads and arduous conditions, offering the lowest total cost of ownership.’ The modular design of overhead sectional doors from the portfolio of ASSA Abloy entrance systems supports
BRIDGE THE GAP The easy to operate swing lip dock leveller connects a building with a vehicle by safely bridging the gap between the ramp and vehicle bed. It ensures safe and efficient goods
customers’ needs for specialised
transfer, preventing injuries or damage
configurations. These modern, robust
to goods and equipment. The extremely
and flexible doors are an ideal choice
robust support of the leveller absorbs
for warehouses, logistics centres and
impact while the open hinges prevent
distribution facilities.
blockage by way of the ‘swinging out’
The joints are designed for better load
MORE TRANSPORT AND LOGISTICS COMPANIES ARE EQUIPPING THEIR LOADING BAYS WITH CURTAIN DOCK SHELTERS FROM MAXIFLEX
movement. The swing lip dock leveller is
distribution, ensuring rugged reliability
easy to maintain, keeping downtime to
The front curtains of the dock shelter
over a long service life. Built to the highest
a minimum.
are fixed to the front frame with steel
standards, these extremely well-insulated
Unlike any other on the market, the
balls, which not only hold the fabric in
doors deliver outstanding insulation
curtain dock shelter from Maxiflex is robust.
place but are also flexible to allow for
and seamless performance in all
The side and top curtains are made from
movement on impact from trucks. This
weather conditions.
durable, three millimetre thick flexible
increases the tear resistance of the fabric
polyester fabric and a weight reducing
and avoids breaking points. Curtain
a four-way seal to create maximum
aluminium frame. When a vehicle reverses
dock shelters are available in a number
tightness. The doors have a class three
into the curtain shelter, it is sealed off to
of models, which protect goods and
Rubber gaskets on all sides ensure
24
| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa
TRANSPORT & LOGISTICS
The industry leading opening and closing speeds of its doors range from 1.2 to 2.5m per second. In addition, their excellent sealing capabilities help reduce costs and improve efficiencies. The high speed sectional door, which boasts an operational speed four times faster than standard counterparts, is the newest offering in the range. ‘Independent tests show, compared to the standard panel sectional door, these new high speed sectional doors can reduce energy expenses by a remarkable 12 percent,’ notes Janssen. By effectively keeping out drafts, dust, dirt and humidity, these doors create a hygienic, comfortable and safe working environment conducive to improved productivity. equipment and are suitable for a wide
‘We also supply a convenient all
range of vehicle sizes and meet varied
in one docking control system that
and produced rugged PVC strip
customer requirements.
gives the user direct control of the
curtains and sheeting are
dock leveller, shelter and door in one
manufactured from flexible, clear
control unit.’
and durable PVC. These strip curtains
Due to the high wear and tear resistance of the curtain material, combined with the good priceperformance ratio, Janssen notes more
HIGH SPEED DOORS
transport and logistics companies are
Maxiflex was the first company to
equipping their loading bays with curtain
introduce high speed doors to the South
dock shelters from Maxiflex.
African market.
The high quality, in house designed
present a perfect sealing solution for doorways in freezer environments. •
Maxiflex – www.maxiflex.co.za
P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |
25
FRAGRANCES
A nose for African scents and aromas The extensive natural resources in Africa are ideal sources of ingredients for fragrance creations. These raw materials are particularly trendy, researched by major brands and favoured by consumers who prefer authentic natural products over conventional mass produced offerings.
E
merging populations in Africa, Asia and South America want their ancestral beauty secrets to be recognised
and modernised in new sensory formulations enhanced by dedicated fragrances. As a result, global brands should focus more on regional individualities through consumer insight studies. The richness of the African continent continues to inspire fashion designers, architects, fragrance creators and formulators. Think of shea butter, a real African treasure, which has become a pillar of
the African region,
when purchasing, colour can help
the beauty industry,
whose knowledge
them connect a home fragrance
protecting and
of consumers’
to their décor to create a desired
repairing the skin
expectations is
atmosphere. The scent of their
and hair. Palm oil, one
essential.
laundry can emphasise their eau
of the most popular
SMELL THE COLOURS
ingredients, is a powerful antioxidant and beauty elixir,
Seasonal colours are strong
widely used by African women to moisturise and soften their skin and protect it from the sun. These ingredients inspire fragrance creators to imagine new scents and improve their regional olfactive transcription. Payan Bertrand’s perfumers and
The orange tones of a juicy mango and tropical flowers may inspire uniquely African fragrance creations
influencers in perfumery. The
using product analysis and deciphering trends. They are inspired by the subliminal connection that exists between the colours of ingredients and their efficiency to create specific concepts. The perfumers and marketing team also rely on the expertise of Natchem, Payan Bertrand’s distributor in
26
products and perfume. The popular colours for 2018/19 are perfectly in tune with African ingredients, culture,
bright colours and the warmth
music and cuisine:
of African people legitimise the
• green, evolving from palm green
harmony between colours, emotions
to a darker shade, represents
and perfume.
nature, the jungle, roots and
In the past, the colour of
BRIGHT COLOURS AND THE WARMTH OF AFRICAN PEOPLE LEGITIMISE THE HARMONY BETWEEN COLOURS, EMOTIONS AND PERFUME
| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa
interference between their body care
richness of the continent, its energy,
marketing team study all the evolutions in the market,
de toilette and they can avoid
the year only really influenced
sustainability • curry yellow is reminiscent of
fashion. Today, it crosses
happiness, the savanna and exotic
categories and rises not only in
chic; it’s wild and shining, spicy and
selective fragrances but also
evokes the scents of pineapple,
in personal and home care product fragrances, including
shea butter and banana • orange is hot on dark skin tones,
laundry detergent and other
it’s connected, clearly modern,
home care applications.
elegant, solar, iconic, sensual
Colour acts as an unconscious link. A seasonal colour choice helps to distinguish a product
and reminiscent of a juicy tropical mango • ultra violet, although more relevant
on crowded shelves. Because
to Europe than Africa, evokes
consumers look for coherence
authenticity and sophistication; it
FRAGRANCES These olibanum tears are characterised by a balsamic-spicy, slightly lemon scent with a conifer-like undertone
glitters, is audacious, gourmand-like and
and not characterised by their
sexy, and often associated with liquors
social status or sexual identity.
and blue fruits like the blackcurrant tones
Gender fluidity is evident in how
of South African buchu.
they look, their way of living,
This creative pallet of colours is easily
purchasing preferences and
adapted to African tastes and ideal for
their sexual behaviour. Gender
Ethnic skin, hair, body and home care
fluid, agender, neutral, para-
products that demand powerful, diffusing
gender or no gender – there
and lasting fragrances.
are many terms to express the
GENDER NEUTRAL AROMAS
identity dynamic that blends masculine with feminine to achieve
Already a major trend in Europe and the US,
a ‘genderless’ end product. First seen on
will allow a young couple to purchase
interest in genderless fragrances is growing
fashion runways, the gender-neutral trend
the same products. Marine notes, dry
in Africa. One driver is niche perfumery,
is growing, especially in hair care, fine
amber, spices and smoky woods in home
which continues to capture a widening
fragrances, home fragrance applications
fragrances not only signify luxury but are
share of the fine fragrances market. Niche
and cosmetics. Olfactively, it is translated
also considered unisex by consumers.
or alternative perfumery places ingredients
by the popularity of ‘eau fraiche’ and the
Perfume creators should improve their
at the heart of a formulation. It doesn’t
strong comeback of ‘eau de cologne’
social, emotional and regional knowledge
consider global olfactive trends and
fragrance concentrations. For example,
in Africa and worldwide, to offer consumers
consumer preferences. Magnifying or even
intense woods are used in feminine
new tailored made creations that meet
overdosing ingredients or selecting rare
perfume structures, while flowers such as
their needs for coherence and individuality
olfactive profiles, such as gums, luxurious
orris or orange blossom are used in more
in the products they purchase. •
woods, heady flowers and strong ambery
masculine creations.
and animalic tones – niche perfumery has
In hair care, especially relevant to male
changed olfactive references. Millennials are
consumers who favour boldly coloured
another driver of the genderless trend. These
and fashionable hair styles, the use of fresh
consumers want to be seen as individuals
mint, exotic fruits, citrus and aquatic notes
Natchem – www.natchem.co.za Payan Bertrand – www.payanbertrand.com
P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |
27
FRAGRANCES
An enchanted garden of unique ingredients Superfoods like chia seeds, goji berries and kale are in high demand. These trendy ingredients have evolved from health food store exclusivity to mainstream acceptance in the cosmetics industry. This is thanks to their high concentrations of antioxidants and other nutrients.
T
he growing success of natural cosmetics has played a decisive role
The Asian superfruit, mangosteen
in the superfoods trend.
Superfruits, supervegetables and supergrains have become an almost inexhaustible source
care market in some regions.
GRUB TO SCRUB
of ingredients for the cosmetics
Stable global growth in the natural
The clean eating trend saw
industry. Yet no conclusive
cosmetics sector is predicted for
superfruits grow in popularity. For
definition exists for the term
the coming years. ‘Trends such as
example, porridge produced from
‘superfood’. According
increased health consciousness
oat flakes became trendy breakfast
generally follow a familiar cycle,’
cereal; shortly thereafter the first
to the European Food Information Council, ‘superfood’ is a generic term for foods considered to have superior health benefits because of their nutrient content. This makes the category suitable
DID YOU KNOW?
explains Anja Reissig, marketing
specialist from Bell Flavors & The bright colours of many superfoods are often due to Fragrances EMEA. ‘The growth the presence of antioxidant phase and establishment compounds, which make these follow the conception and plants appealing. For example, quality extracts of turmeric, emergence of a trend. pomegranate and amla can Thereafter, maturity or improve the appearance of saturation occurs before the skin, scalp and hair by protecting them from trend degenerates. If one looks environmental at the life cycle of the vitality and aggressors.
body care products formulated with an oat-inspired fragrance or extract appeared on the market. ‘Since 2017 superfoods have been used more and more in body and hair care products. The trend reflects consumers increasing desire for beauty both internally and externally,’ Reissig explains. ‘In hair care, superfood ingredients and
balance megatrend, as it is called
fragrances enhance the perceived
purposes – in both the food
in professional circles and in which
functionality of a shampoo and
and cosmetics industries.
the superfruits can undoubtedly
conditioner. In skin care, nourishing
be classified, it was first adopted by
properties are particularly
the food and beverage industry.
important. Superfruits are full of
for product marketing
Health conscious consumers are also highly environmentally conscious and pay very close
The personal care industry
antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and
attention to the ingredients in
quickly followed suit and we are
other substances known to promote
their toiletries. As a result, the
currently seeing this trend in full
health. Keeping the legal framework
growth rate of natural and organic
bloom with GlobalData survey
in mind, manufacturers can use the
cosmetics is already exceeding
results predicting further prospects
benefits associated with superfruits
that of the conventional personal
for growth.’
for their product marketing.’
28
| QUARTER 3 2018 | P C Africa
FRAGRANCES
RELEVANCE IN PERSONAL CARE
shimmering leaves, this herb plays
included in the CosIng database – the
an increasingly important role due
EU’s official database for cosmetics
The categories of superfoods range
to its alleged anti-ageing benefits.
ingredients – for its properties.
from powdered ingredients such
Antioxidants, calcium and vitamin A
as matcha, moringa, baobab and
are all considered beneficial for the
BOTANICAL INGREDIENTS
turmeric to classic fruits and berries
skin, cell formation and hair growth.
Consumers place great trust in the
like goji, acai and blueberries –
The diversity of tropical plants
benefits of natural ingredients. Although
pomegranate and avocado are also
and fruits guarantees that new
superfruits are primarily used as a
considered superfruits.
superfruits are regularly discovered.
motif and inspiration for innovative
For example, Bell recently added
fragrances, manufacturers can go a
a fragrance based on the Asian
step further using botanical extracts
superfruit mangosteen to its portfolio.
in their formulations. Reissig
This fruity, aromatic fragrance has
explains: ‘Just like superfruits,
nuances of fig, rose and apricot,
consumers perceive products
underlining the rich character of
formulated with natural ingredients
the violet fruit with its white lychee-
to offer additional value. The trick is
like flesh. Mangosteen is also prized
to skilfully combine both aspects.’
SUPERFOOD INGREDIENTS AND FRAGRANCES ENHANCE THE PERCEIVED FUNCTIONALITY OF A SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER
for its high nutrient content of
For manufacturers looking to develop
xanthones. These are very powerful
new products using Bell’s Arctic Circle
antioxidants said to protect the
plant extract, the company’s marketing
skin and hair from free radical
experts suggest concepts such as polar
Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA
damage and offer anti-inflammatory
light, arctic blue and glacier water.
has noticed native wild plants and
effects. To date, about 200 different
herbs are experiencing a boom in
xanthones have been identified
and related categories
Germany. The fragrance company
in nature of which mangosteen
illustrates immense potential
has also identified various cereals
contains 43, making it the richest
for the personal care
as superfoods. According to Bell
natural source of xanthones.
industry. There are virtually
Flavors & Fragrances EMEA, spelt,
The broad spectrum of superfruits
no limits to manufacturers’
amaranth are ideal for creams,
FRESHNESS FROM THE ARCTIC
lotions and hair care products.
Unique, distinctive extracts catch
based on new and
consumers attention and are
interesting ingredients.
found their place in the superfood
perceived as a sign of innovative
In combination with
trend. Be it kale, cucumber or carrot,
strength. In light of the current
botanical extracts, there
these vegetables are all experiencing
trend of Scandinavian themed
are endless competitive
a boom in connection with the detox
products, its likely botanical extracts
advantages that can and
trend. This involves eating a lot of
originating from northern regions will
should be explored. •
uncooked vegetables to increase
become more popular in the future.
teff, Khorasan wheat, sorghum and
Domestic vegetables have also
one’s energy levels and to allow the skin to shine from within. ‘As a manufacturer of flavours,
for evoking feelings of freedom, purity and freshness. The fresh
our goal is to offer consumers new
and youthful appearance
and exciting combinations. Popular
associated with Nordic femininity
vegetable-inspired fragrances and
is particularly popular with
extracts in our collection include
skin care products. Reissig
cucumber and borage, corn and
elaborates: ‘Siberian plants or
coriander, and sweet potato and
species from Scotland and the
rosemary,’ Reissig comments.
Faroe Islands are at the centre of
In the search for new ingredients, it’s valuable to look both on your
consumers with products
Anja Reissig
These ingredients, which relate to the Arctic Circle, are ideal
fragrances and botanical extracts,
INGREDIENTS FROM NEAR AND FAR
imagination to present
Bell Flavors & Fragrances EMEA – www.bell-europe.com
current products on the market. Northern European ingredients include cottongrass, Arctic cloudberry and birch sap.’ In light of this development,
doorstep and to distant destinations.
Bell EMEA recently expanded
The aromatic, pleasant fragrance
its product portfolio to include
of sage is not only suitable for
plant extracts such as cup flower,
the medicine chest but also the
red algae, gentian, edelweiss
personal care industry. With its silvery
and bearberry. The latter is
P C Africa | QUARTER 3 2018 |
29
FRAGRANCES
Indulge the senses
A
t in-cosmetics Latin America
create eau de cologne and eau fraiche
2018, which took place from
options to encourage shoppers to buy more
19 to 20 September, visitors
perfumes and use them daily.
could discover fragrance
and ingredients trends to help grow
AROMATIC SOLUTIONS ON SHOW
their businesses.
Fragrance formulators wanting to grasp a
This immersive and interactive show in São
better understanding of global trends and
Paulo, Brazil offered brands, manufacturers
new innovations, could engage all their
and formulators up to the minute trends with
senses in the in-cosmetics Latin America
expert insights and the chance to get hands
Fragrance Trail. This new show feature guided
on with ingredients.
visitors through the prestigious fragrance
According to in-cosmetics Global, the
houses and producers and distributors of
worldwide perfume and fragrance market is
extracts and raw materials, helping them
projected to reach US$64.6 billion (CAGR six
locate exhibitors that offer fragrance related.
percent) by 2023. Manufacturers continue
Fragrance concepts for finished products and perfumery offerings are of growing interest to in-cosmetics’ visitors
It also provided a platform for expert
to innovate and consumers are using their
formulation advice, insight into regional
among show visitors. It helped them
rising disposable incomes to buy into the
differences and where to source aromatic
navigate and find the latest fragrance
market. Niche fragrances are in vogue,
components for personal care formulations
ingredients that can make a real
with younger consumers more interested
from the world’s leading suppliers.
difference to their finished products.’ •
in personalised products and experiences.
Daniel Zanetti, exhibition director of
International perfume houses are using
in-cosmetics Latin America, comments:
lower concentrations of fragrance oils to
‘The Fragrance Trail was very popular
in-cosmetics Latin America – www.latinamerica.in-cosmetics.com
Tel 011 608 4944 Fax 011 608 4948 Email sales@sensetek.biz
Sensetek.indd 1
30
| QUARTER 2 2018 | P C Africa
2017/03/02 11:50 AM
Gallagher Convention Centre
Johannesburg, South Africa
SEE LOCAL & INTERNATIONAL PHARMA COMPANIES AT SAPHEX 2018 SAPHEX is now established as the “go-to” pharmaceutical manufacturing event in South Africa, and is a fixture on the calendar of key pharmaceutical professionals who attend to see best-in-class product and service suppliers, and too access peer-driven papers at the sister content-rich conference. The exhibition brings together all the key suppliers to the region’s pharmaceutical manufacturing base, exhibitors presenting a full range of APIs, excipients, and drug formulations; pharmaceutical packaging solutions; processing machinery and equipment; laboratory equipment; and clean room technology. There really is every reason to secure your place at SAPHEX as soon as possible, and no reason to delay. Register Free today (limited free of charge conference places apply)
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150+ Exhibitors
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For more information, please contact us at: Telephone: +27 21 900 2500 Email: health@vital.co.za Website: www.vital.co.za Address: Lavender Lane, Kuils River, Cape Town 7580