AFRICA
Quarter 2 2016 | Volume 1 | Number 2
PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
www.pharmacos.co.za
Improving skin health by promoting indigenous plants and traditional knowledge in Africa
Natural is a necessity for African consumers New measures to step up quality control Touring packaging trends on the continent
Locally sourced Locally made Internationally approved
Tel: +27 11 473 1373 Email: sales@cirebelle.com
www.cirebelle.com
CIREBELLE Waxes • CIREBELLE Beads • CIREBELLE Blends • CIREBELLE Softsphere™
AFRICA
NEWS
Quarter 2 2016 | Volume 1 | Number 2
www.pharmacos.co.za PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
CONTENTS News 6
BASF opens in Ivory Coast
7
Ethiopia encourages local
24
Updated news from All4Pack Paris
Events 10
26
Industry Insight SPIM 2016 calls on young African scientists
Ethnic Care 14 15
27
Silicone products from Wacker Renewable materials and
Vegetable oils for enhanced product performance
GSK changes its IP protection policy
Sterile sporicidal product for transfer disinfection Introducing Octanorm’s modular cleanroom solution
Packaging
Textron’s oil-based botanical skin brightener
29
Pouches and sachets a firm favourite in Africa
DID YOU KNOW?
24
12
Quality Control 28
biodegradable ingredients
16
Multifunctional products on the rise
Pharmaceutical Focus: Generics
Bank of Industry endorses Propak West Africa
11
Innovation addressing damaged African hair
Personal Care
pharma production
8
18 20
BOTANICALITE HAS BEEN PROVEN TO ADDRESS SEVERE PIGMENTATION ISSUES IN AFRICAN CONSUMERS
A targeted solution for African hair
According to market research company, Technavio, the beauty and personal care market in Africa is expected to grow at a CAGR of 8.24 percent over the period 2014 to 2019.
18
Showcase your research success at 11
SPIM 2016
22 P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |
3
PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
FROM THE EDITOR
Poised for economic growth A
THE TEAM EDITORIAL
Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 715 8012 abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za Assistant Editor: Nikita Geldenhuys +27 (0)11 877 6209 nikita.geldenhuys@newmediapub.co.za Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributors: Kim MacCallum and Victoria Donat ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmediapub.co.za
fricans just seem to have a knack
Hydrasoft Lightening; silicone solutions
Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmediapub.co.za
for fusing global trends with
from Wacker; and Croda’s multicultural
INTERNATIONAL SALES
regional innovations. Their various
conditioning solution that has been
cultures are bright and eclectic, much
tested on African hair are some of the
like the future of the continent’s beauty
topics discussed.
and personal care industry. Fast-growing
Developments in the generic medicines
markets such as Nigeria, Kenya and
sector are revealed in our Pharmaceutical
Egypt are deemed valuable assets by
Focus on page 26 with the recent
many of the multinational beauty giants,
announcement by GlaxoSmithKline to
with consumers’ focus shifting to natural
further help bring innovative medicines
ingredients, enhanced efficacy and
to developing nations. This involves the
improved finished product sophistication.
global company’s move to ease intellectual
In 2015, Euromonitor analysts found
property rights for the poorest of countries.
that manufacturers in Kenya engaged in
The Packaging update in this edition
adding value and developing new products
covers flexible substrates, and pouches
containing natural ingredients in response
and sachets in particular. Turn to page
to the growing consumer demand for more
29 now to find out more about the
natural products. Skin care, hair care, and
latest developments regarding these
bath and shower care were among the
popular packaging solutions for Africa’s
leading categories reflecting such changes.
FMCG industries.
In this edition of Pharmaceutical
The team and I are keen on hearing from
Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Mediapoint & Communications Fabio Potesta +39 010 570 4948 info@mediapointsrl.it China: ACT International Hong Kong – Pauli Mak +85 228 386 298 paulim@actintl.com.hk Shenzen – Michael Tsui +86 755 259 8857 1 michaelt@actintl.com.hk Shanghai – Lisa You +86 106 487 252 lisay@actintl.com.hk Beijing – Gloria Zhu +86 106 418 7252 gloriaz@actintl.com.hk Winson Xing +86 106 418 7252 winsonx@actintl.com.hk Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk CIRCULATION Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmediapub.co.za PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmediapub.co.za
Cosmetic Review Africa, we take a look at
our P C Review Africa readers; please
new technologies and solutions that meet
remember to keep in touch on all of the
Art Director: David Kyslinger
the beauty, personal care, and health care
creative and innovative developments
JOHANNESBURG OFFICE
needs of African consumers. The central
within your company. E-mail me on
theme for this edition is the natural trend.
abby.vorster@newmediapub.co.za
Botanica Natural Products is one reputable
regarding any expansions and
New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 713 9024 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146
supplier ideally positioned to assist brand
upgrades, new technological
owners and manufacturers with natural
investments or product
Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd.
and organic personal care ingredients. Turn
launches. As always, we
GROUP COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR
to page 12 now to find out more about its
welcome your news and
John Psillos
speciality plant extracts and selection of
views and look forward to
MANAGING DIRECTOR
African oils.
hearing from you.
Interesting formulation technologies and ingredient innovations come under
Enjoy the read.
the spotlight in the Ethnic Care feature starting on page 14. Textron’s cost-effective, oil-based botanical skin brightener, Evoil
Production Controller: Rae Morrison
Bridget McCarney NON EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Irna van Zyl HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: newmedia@newmediapub.co.za PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051
ADVERTISERS’ INDEX QUARTER 2 2016 Amchem...........................................................IBC .....................www.amchem.co.za Botanica Natural Products .............................OFC ...................www.timola.co.za Chem Systems .................................................19 .......................www.chemsystems.co.za Cirebelle ...........................................................IFC, 17 ...............www.cirebelle.com Merck ................................................................5.........................www.merck.co.za Natchem ..........................................................14 .......................www.natchem.co.za
Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media Publishing four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel.
Unicare Ingredients ........................................15 .......................www.unicare.co.za
While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners.
Vantage Speciality Chemicals......................21.......................www.vantagegrp.com
Pharmaceutical
Savannah Fine Chemicals .............................25 ......................www.savannah.co.za Symrise .............................................................OBC...................www.symrise.com
Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Tandym.
Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719
4
| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa
NEWS
Alpla Taba’s headquarters in El Obour, close to Cairo
AFRICAN ECONOMIES ON HIGH GROUNDS percent average GDP growth during the year.
PLASTIC PACKAGING JOINT VENTURE IN EGYPT
This is compared to the best performers in
THE AUSTRIA-BASED ALPLA group has formed a joint
developed countries which hardly reached two
venture with the Taba Group, thus strengthened its
DESPITE THE DIFFICULT and challenging global economic situation, African countries achieved considerable economic progress in 2015, registering a 3.6
percent. Africa also accounts for five of the world’s fastest-
market position in Africa.
growing economies with Côte d’Ivoire, Democratic Republic of Congo, Ethiopia, Rwanda and Tanzania registering
The two companies have signed a partnership agreement in which Alpla will take on a majority
growth rates of seven percent or more.
shareholding in Taba. The new entity will operate under
These positive statistics were presented to thousands of
the name Alpla Taba. The contracting parties have
participants at the African Development Bank’s annual meetings in Lusaka, Zambia, on
agreed not to disclose the details of the agreement.
25 May.
Taba was founded in 1988 and has two locations in El
According to the bank’s report, in 2015 economic performance was varied across
Obour, close to Cairo. The company produces plastic
countries and regions, with Eastern Africa at the top of the group with an average GDP
bottles and closures for international customers in the
growth of 6.3 percent, from 6.5 percent the previous year. Central Africa averaged 3.7 percent from 6.1 percent while Western Africa recorded a sharp decline from six percent in 2014 to 3.3 percent in 2015. In North Africa, growth more than doubled from 1.4 to 3.5 percent. Southern Africa slowed to an average of 2.2 percent from 2.8 percent in 2014,
pharmaceutical, home care, body care, food and beverage industries. It is active in various parts of Africa and the Middle East. ‘This partnership is another promising step to help us
making the region the slowest growth pole on the continent during the year in review.
expand our market presence in Africa and the Middle
Africa’s resilience at a time when frontline global economies are struggling can be attributed to strong public investment especially in infrastructure, strong domestic
East,’ says Christoph Riedlsperger, Alpla’s regional
consumer base, a burgeoning services sector and gradual economic diversification.
manager of Africa, the Middle East and Turkey. ‘Thanks
The report also projected the continent’s average GDP growth to 3.7 and 4.5 percent, respectively in 2016 and 2017.
to the regional locations, we will be able to offer further benefits to our customers in the future.’
NEW IVORY COAST HUB FOR BASF THE CHEMICAL COMPANY has established a new legal entity in Ivory Coast, located in Abidjan. This is in addition to its presence in Morocco and other countries of the Maghreb for over 60 years. It has also been operating in South Africa for the past 50 years. In 2010 BASF launched a specific strategy for Africa and created four country clusters with main offices located in Casablanca (for North and French-speaking West Africa), Lagos (for Englishspeaking West Africa), Nairobi (for East Africa) and Midrand (for southern Africa). ‘We are supporting our business growth throughout Africa with the support of smaller offices established in Zambia, Tanzania, and most recently, Ivory Coast. Overall we are present in more than 12 countries right now and we plan to keep on increasing our presence in the coming years,’ explains Andres Monroy, MD of BASF North and West Africa (French-speaking countries). After having a representative office in Abidjan, the company
Andres Monroy says BASF seeks to leverage its leading position as an integrated global chemical company to create opportunities in Ivory Coast
its capabilities considerably to continue innovating in this important region. Last year, BASF sales in North and West Africa
chose to expand its presence in Ivory Coast to show its
totalled more than €200 million. The company is also employing
commitment to the country. ‘Our customers have already
market development staff to better understand the needs and
experienced the outstanding performance of BASF products
potential demands of the local market.
and now they will have a local office to provide them advice and support in applications using our technology,’ Monroy adds. Ivory Coast is a key growth market for BASF, which has expanded
6
| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa
BASF is also encouraging employment and training of the local workforce with the aim of enhancing the population’s technical skill-set over a period of time.
NEWS
TAX INCENTIVES TO INCREASE MEDICINE PRODUCTION IN ETHIOPIA TO ENCOURAGE LOCAL pharmaceutical production, the Government of Ethiopia is offering tax and loan incentives that will ultimately reduce the cost of drugs, increase job opportunities, improve economic growth and enhance foreign exchange inflow. Ethiopia has previously relied heavily on pharmaceutical imports, or international manufacturers with a footprint in the country, to meet a growing consumer demand for medicine. As a result, several initiatives will be rolled out to improve the quality of health care in the country, owing to a large gap in the supply and demand of drugs. ‘The government has encouraged local pharmaceutical production with tax-free loans for up to five years and a 100 percent exemption on custom duty for imports on capital goods,’ says Frost & Sullivan industry analyst for transformational health, Aditi Bhalla. ‘Furthermore, an income tax exemption for five years is provided to manufacturers exporting 50 percent of their products, or supplying 75 percent of their products or services as production or services input. The time for production registration has also been reduced to a month for local manufacturers.’ A new study from Frost & Sullivan, entitled Analysis of the Ethiopian Pharmaceutical Market, finds that the market earned revenues of US$620 million in 2015 and estimates this to reach US$1.01 billion in 2020. The study covers prescription and over-the-
GERMAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE OPENS ZAMBIA OFFICE
counter medicines, with prescription medicines further divided into generic and
ON 24 MAY, the Southern African-German Chamber
branded medicines.
of Commerce and Industry opened a new branch
Ethiopia has an increasing requirement of antibiotics, as well as anti-infective drugs,
office in Lusaka, Zambia. High level speakers featured
given the high incidences of communicable diseases in the country and an ever-growing
at the opening ceremony, including Margaret
population. This in turn is fueling the need for chronic care medication.
Mwanakatwe, Zambian Minister of Commerce, Trade
In addition to rolling out programmes like the Growth and Transformational plans and
and Industry; Thomas Silberhorn, Parliamentary
Health Sector Development Plan, the government has partnered with the World Health
State Secretary to the Federal Minister for Economic
Organization. This collaboration resulted in the launch of the National Strategy and Plan of
Cooperation and Development; Dr Dorothea Schuetz,
Action for Pharmaceutical Manufacturing Development to urge domestic production and
deputy director in the German Ministry of Economic
strengthen the national medicine regulatory system.
Affairs and Energy, and Geoffrey Sakulanda, president of the Zambian Chamber of Commerce and
ROMACO CONTINUES TO GROW
Industry. Professor Horst Koehler, the former Paulo Alexandre applauds the outcome of the company’s corporate strategy
THE COMPANY HAS reported a 15.1 percent rise in incoming orders for the 2015 fiscal year. The supplier of processing and packaging solutions recorded a significant increase in sales of new machines, with 24.2 percent more orders won than in 2014. This general upward trend is also reflected in the sales figures, which grew by 12.6 percent to €126.3 million. The successful fiscal year is the outcome of the group’s heavy investments in its sales organisation over the last few years. ‘The significant growth in orders received and the increase in our sales figures are a vindication of our current corporate strategy “Beyond Technology”, which places the focus on the customer’s lifecycle,’ says Paulo Alexandre, CEO of the Romaco group. ‘Ensuring our customers’ business success is a top priority for us and drives our future growth.’ Visit the Romaco website for a list the company’s agents in Africa.
President of the Federal Republic of Germany also attended the event. The chamber’s Lusaka office promises to be a powerful asset to German businesses looking to establish operations in Zambia. Its emergence as the third largest economy in southern Africa over the last few years has underlined the vast opportunities within this country. The chamber will offer companies from Germany a comprehensive platform for engaging in bi-lateral business relations with the major players in Zambia’s vibrant economy. Johannes Kurt has been appointed by the chamber as its representative in Lusaka. Kurt has spent most of his career fostering German-African business relations. Most recently, he was employed at the German-African Business Association (AfrikaVerein), working closely with African governments and the German private sector. It was at this Berlinbased organisation where he held the position of manager for southern Africa. In February 2016, he joined chamber.
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |
7
NEWS
PROJECT SET TO SUPPORT DISADVANTAGED GIRLS IN GHANA PROCTER & GAMBLE (P&G) sub-Saharan Africa, World of Children Award, and EPF Educational Empowerment Initiative have announced a joint project. This will see all three entities providing sanitary supplies and health-related educational materials to 1 000 junior school girls over the next six months.
BLISTEREVOLUTION CAMPAIGN KICKS OFF
Khululiwe Mabaso, P&G’s director of communications for The Integra 320 integrated robotised blister line in action
sub-Saharan Africa, comments: ‘Empowering the female child is multifaceted and one of the most powerful platforms to positively change our society. Beyond the prevailing impact, this initiative will have on the lives of vulnerable Ghanaian females.’
MARCHESINI RECENTLY TOOK part in two major packaging events in Brazil
EPF is a Ghanaian organisation founded by Winnifred Selby,
and Mexico. FCE Pharma was held from 10 to 12 May in São Paulo, while
the 2015 World of Children Youth Honouree. Selby is thrilled
Expopack took place in Mexico City from 17 to 20 May.
with the joint project and its potential to expand the scope of
On both occasions, the company showcased its blister packaging solutions,
her current programmes. ‘Girls can face so many problems
including the Integra 220 and 320. These lines have set the foundations
in Ghana today. Winning the World of Children Award and
for Marchesini’s success in this market share. The exhibitions kicked off the
entering into this relationship with P&G shows that EPF’s work,
company’s Blisterevolution campaign, which will build up to the inauguration
and these girls, are truly important to the world.’ The potential of the project to bring a largely taboo subject
of its thermoforming centre in Italy in October. Presented to FCE Pharma visitors, the Integra 220 features a very compact
out in the open is recognised by Harry Leibowitz, co-founder
layout with visual appeal. It offers time and cost-saving advantages, as two
of the World of Children Award and recipient of the 2007
main work stations are combined in this offering.
P&G Alumni Humanitarian Award. ‘Lack of access to sanitary
The Integra 320’s innovative features and ergonomics were presented to
supplies during menstruation drastically increases school
Expopack attendees. The machine’s pitch controller, cartoner and ingenious
absenteeism. Inadequate reproductive health education can
carton opening and product insertion system boost production rates to
have even more devastating consequences. Girls fall behind
320 blisters and over 260 cartons a minute. These features are combined
or drop out completely. It is broadly estimated that as many as
into a compact machine, integrating the blister thermoforming and carton
30 million girls globally lack access to proper sanitation during
packaging phases into a single monobloc.
menstruation. With this programme, we are making a start at changing this troubling statistic.’
KEEP UP WITH PACKAGING INNOVATIONS THE INTERNATIONAL TRADE event All4Pack Paris 2016 is set to offer an
discussed by experts, stakeholders and influential industry figures.
unprecedented range of content, addressing today’s most pressing themes for
All4Pack will also play host to Expo 10/10, and international competition
industry professionals. To be held in France from 14 to 17 November 2016, the
dedicated to packaging. In addition, the Best Pack 4.0 event will feature design
exhibition will focus on packaging, printing, processing and handling solutions.
students from international colleges in Canada, France, Italy and the Netherlands.
With a programme packed with exciting and insightful features and events, the expo fulfils the promise of its tagline ‘Let’s be creative’. The show promises
They will offer a fresh and forward-looking view of technological, progresstriggered developments awaiting the packaging world.
to plunge attendees into an experience hallmarked by innovation. It will give the expected 98 000 trade visitors the opportunity to gain insight into trends and learn more about the current and future challenges facing the industry. One show feature, the Pack Innovation showcase, will be a space dedicated to the discovery of the most recent solutions offered by exhibitors. These selected products will be displayed in a showcase throughout the show, and the most outstanding will receive a distinction from the Pack Experts Committee in the form of an Innovation Award. The TV Stage is another feature which will provide a unique platform for analysis and exchange, where exhibition highlights will be
8
| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa
The Pack Innovation showcase area at the 2014 Emballage and Manutention trade shows, which have been combined to create All4Pack Paris
DIARY 2016
WHAT'S ON IN
2016
July
Propak China 13 to 15 July Shanghai New International Expo Centre www.propakchina.com
Cosmoprof North America 24 to 26 July Mandalay Bay Convention Centre, Las Vegas www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com
August Professional Beauty Johannesburg
AFRICA
PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA
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P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |
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EVENT
Dedicated to
West African growth With less than four months to go, Propak West Africa has almost outsold the total floor space the show occupied in 2015. The expo takes place from 20 to 22 September at the Landmark Centre in Lagos, Nigeria. BELOW The 2015 seminars and conferences were well attended
for the Economic Community of West
BOTTOM More than 2 600 attendees filled the halls of Propak West Africa last year
PROUD PARTNERS
African States.
EXHIBITORS HAVE THEIR SAY
The Bank of Industry has endorsed Propak West Africa 2016, as Afrocet Montgomery’s regional director, George Pearson, explains: ‘We are excited to announce the endorsement. Its inclusion in the exhibition and conference
The exhibition was a fantastic platform, which provided us with the necessary exposure and contacts of key printing and packaging players in Nigeria. We’ll be back in 2016’ – Shripad Joshi, vice president technical and sales, Megatech UPS.
programme will help promote and educate local buyers on the benefits the bank can provide to raise finance for capital goods. This is also exciting for international exhibitors as the cost of larger printing and packaging machinery often puts these products out of reach for many aspiring local companies. With the
We travelled all the way from Germany for this exhibition. I have obtained some very interesting leads that will hopefully translate into real business partnership’ – Andre Soterio, product manager, Yupo Europe.
prospect of low interest long-term loans, bigger equipment purchases become more attainable.’
A
s one of the largest
EDUCATIONAL OPPORTUNITIES
packaging, printing
Various seminars aimed at senior-
and plastics exhibitions
level industry professionals will run
in the region, the 2015
alongside the exhibition, looking into
event attracted 85 exhibitors and
the state of manufacturing in Africa.
over 2 600 attendees. This year a
In 2015, the seminar auditorium was
number of returning exhibitors have
filled to capacity with attendees
booked larger stands, allowing them
gathering to gain valuable insight
to demonstrate their machinery and
from representatives at Unilever,
equipment in action.
PZ Cussons and Reckitt Benckiser,
According to the expo organiser, Afrocet Montgomery, solutions for
among others. The 2016 conference programme
the pharmaceutical industry will
will again feature leading industry
receive greater attention at this
speakers, who will provide
year’s event. The pharmaceutical
presentations and participate in
industry is expected to grow rapidly
interactive panel discussions.
until 2020, reaching a total of
Companies interested in exhibiting
US$11 billion in sales in Nigeria alone.
at Propak West Africa, and anyone
This is as a result of the country
keen to visit the show should visit
being home to 60 percent of the
www.propakwestafrica.com for
production of pharmaceutical drugs
more information. •
10
| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa
Propak West Africa serves as a very good forum. Most importantly, it is an opportunity for us to educate exhibitors on the requirements for registering new products, and the relevant regulations’ – Mosunmola Samuel, principal standards officer, Standard Organisation of Nigeria.
It was definitely a good experience in terms of meeting prospective clients. I flew from Dubai for this exhibition. It was my first time in Nigeria and I will be back in 2016’ – Zhang Guo, sales manager, Lucky Films Middle East.
The most striking thing about Propak West Africa was the quality of the visitors. From this event alone, we have quoted for over US$25 million worth of business’ – Pieter Du Toit, key accounts sales manager, Filmatic Packaging Systems.
INDUSTRY INSIGHT
Showcase your research success at SPIM 2016
Students now have the opportunity to gain recognition on a global platform, with Natchem and its international principal, Greentech, at the 2016 Skin Physiology International Meeting (SPIM). Both companies are working together to drive this campaign for young scientists by creating awareness in Africa.
S
PIM is a non-profit foundation
participants at the end of the event; the
Cape, entitled Bacteriophage: drivers of the
supported by Greentech to
winner receives a grant of €4 000.
human skin microbiome.
encourage cross-collaboration
Any young scientist from Africa interested
Professor Ralf Paus, FRCB, from
in entering the Greentech Awards is
Manchester University, UK, will share basic
disciplines involved in studying skin and
advised to visit www.skin-meeting.com
concepts and translational perspectives
metabolic interactions.
and create an account. All applications
in his presentation on the hair follicle as a
must be uploaded onto the website via the
neuroendocrine organ.
between researchers of various
This bi-annual scientific meeting includes numerous conferences dealing specifically
Autophagy: a component of the
submission form. The scientific project must include the
anti-ageing elixir will be covered by Dr
engage various disciplines in innovative
most pertinent results, updated works and
Maria Chiara Maiuri, from the Gustave
and interactive discussions within a
perspectives, and should not be more
Roussy Comprehensive Cancer Centre, in
professional environment.
than 10 pages. Papers cannot contain any
Villejuif, France.
with skin physiology. The conferences
Experts from all over the world, such as physiologists, biochemists, dermatologists and pharmacologists present results of their
commercial topic or research based on the promotion of active ingredients. The closing date for paper submissions is
latest research on skin (including its multi-
31 August 2016, after which the committee
components, physiology functions, ageing
will confidentially review all the papers.
and microflora) and specific methods of investigation.
The scientific committee will select the best nine researchers to present
The full programme of presentations for SPIM 2016 can be accessed online. Visit www.skin-meeting.com for more information. •
2014 SPIM WINNERS
their results during the fifth SPIM, which
THE SCIENTIFIC COMMITTEE chose to share
takes place in Vichy, France on 17 and
the Best Junior Scientist Award and the grant of
18 November. All nine nominees elected
€15 000 between two entries at SPIM 2014. The
The Greentech Awards, in which Natchem is
to present their papers will be sponsored
winners were Quentin Bernard from the Institut
now involved, forms a key part of SPIM. They
travel and accommodation in full by the
de Bactériologie, located in Strasbourg, France,
provide young scientists preparing a PhD
organising committee.
and Soufiane Boumahdi from the University Libre
CALLING ALL YOUNG SCIENTISTS
or post PhD an opportunity to present their results orally to the scientific committee. The
TOPICS AND PRESENTATIONS
SPIM Best Junior Scientist is awarded prize money in the form of a research grant to the value of €15 000. Participants are also able to present a poster focusing on a particular topic relating to skin physiology. The SPIM Best Poster is chosen by way of votes by all SPIM
SPIM BEST JUNIOR SCIENTIST IS AWARDED PRIZE MONEY IN THE FORM OF A RESEARCH GRANT TO THE VALUE OF €15 000
de Bruxelles in Belgium. Bernard, who was working in Nathalie
The fifth SPIM conference,
Boulanger’s laboratory at the time, presented his
which is limited to 250
research findings on Lyme Borreliosis (or lyme
participants worldwide,
disease) and skin TLR2/TLR3 crosstalk during the
promises an interesting array
early transmission of Borrelia.
of discussions focused on
Boumahdi, working in Professor Cédric
four topics: microbiota; hair;
Blanpain’s laboratory, presented research
autophagy; and structure and
findings on Sox2 controls’ tumour initiation and
matrix. The aim of all talks from
cancer stem-cell functions in skin squamous-
experts and junior researchers
cell carcinoma.
is to establish an intensive,
Elodie Metral was the winner of the Best SPIM
scientific and convivial
Poster 2014. Metral was a PhD student working
platform for exchange.
in the Laboratory of Skin Replacement in Lyon
The lineup for the
and in the Laboratory of Nucleic Acids at CEA
2016 event includes
Grenoble, which are both located in France. Her
a presentation by Professor Marla
topic was the regenerative and anti-ageing effect of adipose derived stem cells.
Trindade from the University of the Western
Greentech – www.greentech.fr Natchem – www.natchem.co.za
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |
11
COMPANY FOCUS
Made in Africa A producer of speciality plant extracts for personal care applications, Botanica Natural Products (Botanica) is ideally positioned to assist brand owners in meeting the needs of African consumers for more diverse and high quality, natural and organic products. Photography by Morgan Cardiff
C
oncerns ranging from holistic health and the environment to sustainability and social
responsibility are not exclusive to the Western world. African consumers are also becoming more discerning in their skin, hair and personal care demands, seeking products that celebrate their culture, heritage and the botanical richness of Africa. Enter Botanica, a South Africanbased, family owned social enterprise
ABOVE Bulbine frutescens plants are cultivated on a 10 hectare plantation near Botanica’s production facility
and organically certified. Our mission
active, which has been developed
is to improve skin health by promoting
and tested in South Africa, is
the use of indigenous plants and
suitable for use in even tone skin
traditional knowledge from Africa,’
care products.
BELOW Botanica’s Bulbine frutescens is cold pressed in its HACCP compliant factory in Limpopo
says Will Coetsee, managing director
The active is formulated using a
at Botanica. ‘Our agricultural
targeted extract from the leaves of
processes used to cultivate 10
the Carob tree, Ceratonia siliqua. By
hectares of Bulbine and Moringa
inhibiting the production of melanin
plants are Ecocert approved. We
in a safe manner, BotanicaLite has
also distribute a range of actives for
been proven to address severe
cosmetics, throughout Africa and
pigmentation issues in African
further abroad.’
consumers. It is naturally plant
Botanica’s innovative plant
derived, irritant-free and cost-
extracts are marketed and supplied
effective. The efficacy of three
to personal care manufacturers in
percent BotanicaLite in a cosmetic
African ingredient concepts. Located
Africa, Europe, the US and Asia. ‘At
formulation to inhibit tyrosinase has
in rural Limpopo, the company
least 90 percent of our sales are
been verified in South Africa during
offers both organically certified
exports,’ he adds. ‘Currently, our
independent in vitro and in vivo tests.
and conventionally produced plant
largest customer base is located in
In vivo protocol saw the BotanicaLite
extracts for use in a variety of personal
West and Central Africa, with our
formulation tested against three
care applications.
market share growing steadily in
commercially available skin
East Africa.
lightening actives, namely Arbutin,
established in 2009 with the focus on developing a variety of interesting
‘We aim to produce cosmetic ingredients that are effective, affordable
12
| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa
IMPROVING SKIN’S APPEARANCE
Kojic acid and Niacinamide. Results showed even toning and brightening of the skin after 28 days of use of
Africa’s search for a safe and
BotanicaLite and, when used in
relevant alternative to traditional skin
conjunction with Niacinamide,
lightening ingredients is finally over
positive results were seen after only
with the launch of BotanicaLite. This
14 days.
COMPANY FOCUS Leaves from the organic Bulbine frutescens plants are washed before processing
SHARING KNOWLEDGE FOR INNOVATION BOTANICA IS HOSTING its second technical conference at its production facility in Limpopo, South Africa, on 6 and 7 September. The focus of the conference will be natural active ingredients produced and distributed by the company, which are used in skin and hair care products. About 20 participants from Europe, West Africa and South Africa are expected to attend to gain access to expert scientific information and presentations on its range of natural active ingredients and applications.
LEAF JUICE FOR COSMETICS
Participants will also tour the company’s production facility and its cultivation fields.
The company’s flagship offering,
adds: ‘Our oil is microbiologically
BotanicaTimola is a cosmetic
controlled and has full traceability.
raw material extracted from the
The powerful antioxidants and high
South African indigenous plant,
levels of omega fatty acids found
Bulbine frutescens. It has a long
in good quality, unadulterated
history of traditional use in South
Marula oil are known to restructure
Africa as an effective remedy
and regenerate skin cells, while
for various topical skin, scalp
protecting it against the damaging
and hair conditions. This is as a
effects of the environment. When
result of its healing, soothing and
used in topical applications, the
moisturising qualities.
oil has been shown to improve
‘This unique product has shown
skin hydration, smoothness and
to be highly effective as an active ingredient in skin and hair care
seeds of the Moringa oleifera trees
formulations, even when used at
on its 10ha plantation in Limpopo.
a small percentage,’ says Michel
‘Our oil is high in antioxidants, has
Colson, technical director and co-
nourishing and emollient properties
founder of Botanica. ‘It is available
and can be used in a number of
in two grades. BotanicaTimola
cosmetic applications including
is the more refined, processed
creams, lotions, liquid soaps, liquid
grade, which is marketed as
foundations, massage oils, leave-in
an active, while BotanicaSap
conditioners, relaxers, hair dyes
is designed as its cost-effective
and other applications,’
alternative and aimed at the
Colson explains. ‘Moringa
soap industry.’
oil also moisturises dry skin,
Through the commercialisation
improves the appearance
process, the company developed
of wrinkles, minimises age
and patented the extraction
spots as a result of acne
technique of the water-based
or hyperpigmentation and
BotanicaTimola. This is to ensure
rejuvenates ageing skin.’
the product can be marketed
The company also
to the cosmetics industry as an
sells Marula oil for use in
active ingredient.
cosmetics which is extracted
SELECTION OF AFRICAN OILS
from the kernels of the fruit of birrea. The tree is indigenous to southern Africa and parts of East
and highly prized for its antioxidant
and West Africa.
and skin rejuvenating qualities,
Botanica’s Marula oil is a filtered,
has been naturalised in Africa for
high quality cosmetic grade; it
over 500 years. Botanica offers an
is unrefined to ensure its active
organically certified variation of
ingredients and the antioxidant
this oil, which is extracted from the
fractions are preserved. Colson
reduce redness. It is suitable for all skin types, particularly reactive and sensitive skin.’
A COMPANY WITH A CONSCIENCE As an ethical and socially responsible business, Botanica operates according to the highest
BOTANICALITE HAS BEEN PROVEN TO ADDRESS SEVERE PIGMENTATION ISSUES IN AFRICAN CONSUMERS
the marula tree, Sclerocarya
Moringa oil, widely recognised
All specification tests on BotanicaTimola are done in house and each batch is issued with a certificate of analysis
ethical standards and ensures that ethical practices exist throughout its value chain, from production to end-use. The company’s organic production methods also ensure the sustainable preservation of biodiversity. As a result of these and other ongoing efforts, Botanica has won several awards. These include the Indigenous Plant Use Forum’s Best Indigenous
plant product for 2014; the SEED Initiative’s Social Enterprise and Accelerator Awards; and an AfricaGrowth Institute Business Innovation Award. •
Botanica Natural Products – www.timola.co.za
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |
13
ETHNIC CARE
The business of black hair Wacker, an industry leader in producing silicone chemical raw materials, offers a wide range of silicone products to meet the specific needs of the personal care industry in Africa. These include fluids, emulsions, gels, resins and elastomers.
T
he growing middle class and rising disposable income in Kenya, Ghana and Nigeria – Africa’s key countries for business development – are seeing increased investment by
international players in the hair care segment. According to Euromonitor International, these countries are also witnessing growth in professional hair care salons and increased finished product quality. Through various research projects specifically
DID YOU KNOW?
Wacker has a number of products that allow for enhanced conditioning, while offering
Wacker’s superior technical know-how and state-of-the-art laboratory facilities allow for various testing and the development of successful formulations to help customers meet the unique demands of the African market.
focused on the Ethnic care market, Wacker is able to better serve customers throughout Africa. It also caters to the unique market demands on the continent through a dedicated team based in the region.
SILICONES FOR STRAIGHTENING AND CONDITIONING In shampoos and conditioners, for example, silicones protect the hair fibres and ensure they are soft, smooth, shiny and easy to comb.
straightening benefits to Ethnic hair. Belsil P 1101 combines the strong hold properties of a hair styling resin with typical silicone properties like softness and silkiness. This silicone organic hybrid material is ideal for use in hair straightening products because of its strong hold in addition to the high water content
that can be formulated without compromising hold, silky feel and quick drying times. An excellent conditioning additive, Belsil DM 3560 VP is ideal for use in shampoos and rinse-off or leave- in conditioners. It improves wet and dry combability, as well as the wet and dry feel of the hair. Belsil ADM 6102 E is an aqueous macro-emulsion of an amino-functional silicone, which has been optimised to deliver excellent hair conditioning properties. This product adheres well to the surface of the hair, does not crosslink and makes hair easy to comb while providing softness to even severely damaged hair. Imparting a natural silky softness, the silicone microemulsion Belsil ADM 8301 E is highly suitable for ethnic hair products. Its benefits include enhanced combability, colour loss prevention and protection against heat damage. As a translucent micro-emulsion, Belsil ADM 8301 E allows manufacturers to formulate transparent products.
A PERFECT COMBINATION HTEssence, the first nature-identical hydroxytyrosol, and Belsil silicones open up a wealth of new possibilities for functional skin and hair care products. The biggest advantage is realised when using HTEssence and Belsil silicones in combination, especially in conditioners, where the silicone ‘seals’ the active, increasing the protective effect on dyed hair. HTEssence, used in a
Wacker – www.wacker.com
hair mask for example, results in hair looking healthier for longer. It also assists in preventing colour fade and prevents hair from rapidly becoming brittle. •
14
| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa
ETHNIC CARE
Rethinking green solutions The movement towards renewable materials and biodegradable ingredients is gaining momentum in Africa’s cosmetics and personal care industry. Unicare reveals its latest offerings in line with these trends.
Based on the Nobel Prize-winning
metathesis process, ERS has transformed renewable (plant) oils into novel, high-performing ester, olefin and triglyceride molecules, leveraging the complexity of plant
ome brands find using
S
from mineral oils derived from
oils to make novel high performance
certified natural and
crude oil.
new materials. functional polymer that provides
and challenging. Alternatives are
A FIRST FOR SUBSAHARAN AFRICA
biodegradable ingredients and those
According to Unicare, its
thickener with film-forming
produced from renewable resources.
technology partner, Novvi
These are believed to be a more
LLC has handed over all
cost-effective solution to produce
consumer care product
products that meet consumers’
development to the South
needs for green and environmentally
African company. This
friendly offerings.
translates to a unique
organic ingredients in their formulations rather costly
Naatium Oleam from Unichem
Elevance Soft CG-100 is a multi-
opportunity for home grown
Services was recently launched in the
brands to become early
market by its consumer care division,
adopters of the technology.
Unicare Ingredients. This range of
formulators with a structural, oil-phase
NAATIUM OLEAM IS FUNDAMENTALLY ABOUT FUNCTIONALITY, SPECIFICALLY EMOLLIENCY
Due to the customised nature
capabilities. These polymers follow the free-from trend in terms of PEG, paraben, petrolatum and silicone, and ultimately reduce formulation and business complexity. Elevance Smooth CS-110 is a low melting point, noncrystalline polymer based 100 percent on soy bean oil.
renewable hydrocarbon molecules
of Unicare’s offering, coupled with
It thickens or structures the oil phase
derived from sugar cane, is based
Naatium Oleam’s well-established
in aqueous and non-aqueous
on a ground-breaking synthetic
toxicology profile, finished product
formulations, and is a semi-occlusive
biology platform whereby yeast
opportunities transcend the
film-former.
cells consume sugar to create pure
full spectrum of personal care
hydrocarbon building blocks that are
categories, from baby to hair care.
converted to functional molecules.
Both molecules have already been received positively in the global market finding application in a broad
specifically emolliency. A structural
RENEWABLE ALTERNATIVES NOW A REALITY
similarity to squalane is the basis for
Unicare’s partnership with Elevance
for the INCI names (Hydrogenated
this functionality, which allows the
Renewable Sciences (ERS)
Soya Bean Oil, Hydrogenated Soy
formulator to target performance
broadens the scope of
Polyglycerides, C15-23 Alkane),
levels achievable with natural-based
renewable materials
hitting shelves across the globe. •
oils such as Argan or Olive oil, as
available to the sub-
well as providing alternatives for
Saharan African
formulators looking to move away
market even further.
The positioning of Naatium Oleam is fundamentally about functionality,
range of formulations, particularly in the challenging and competitive ethnic hair care space. Look out
Unicare – www.unicare.co.za
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |
15
Extracts from Licorice Root, Glycyrrhiza Glabra, and the false rhubarb, Rheum rhaponticum, have been incorporated into Evoil Hydrasoft Lightening
ETHNIC CARE
Brightening with botanicals In line with the demand for safe, natural actives for skin lightening applications, Textron’s Victoria Donat, with the help of Anna Martí, highlights the benefits of a novel oil-based botanical skin brightener, Evoil Hydrasoft Lightening.
most obvious cellular targets
V
lightening) agents. Notably,
naturalness, preservative-free
for whitening agents is Since 2000, scientific literature on tyrosinase inhibition shows that a large amount of the research conducted has been devoted mostly to the examination of
and thermal stability. To
DID YOU KNOW?
the enzyme tyrosinase.
achieve this, a broad study was performed to
Fair skin is a top priority for identify vegetable oils Nigerian consumers. Currently, and natural botanical the Nigerian FDA permits extracts to obtain two percent hydroquinone a single lipid phase in skin care formulations, yet with skin lightening, manufacturers are known to include anything in excess hydrating and of five percent. nourishing activities.
new depigmenting (or
Using our knowledge and experience to combine
arious dermatological
many of these studies deal with
disorders, such as melasma,
tyrosinase inhibitors from natural sources
drastic skin treatments with negative side
age spots, and sites of
and are generally of Asian origin. A
effects, a number of identified vegetable
actinic damage arise from
number of tyrosinase inhibitors, both
extracts were selected as ingredients for
the accumulation of an excessive level
from natural and synthetic sources, have
the projected product. The outcome was
of epidermal pigmentation. Although
been identified.
Evoil Hydrasoft Lightening (Olus oil, Aloe
melanin mainly has a photo-protective
efficacy and care, while avoiding
Traditionally, skin lightening has been
Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Carotenoids,
function in human skin, the accumulation
performed using aggressive chemical
Rheum rhaponticum Root Extract,
of an abnormal amount of melanin
agents. The development of preparations
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate,
in specific parts of the skin results in
to address hyper-pigmented lesions
Glabridin and Tocopherol). This product,
pigmented patches.
or safely achieve overall whitening is
formulated and designed at Textron,
among the greatest challenges in the
incorporates top-range natural plant
cosmetics industry.
oils and synergetic bioactive principles
In the Western culture it is still considered desirable to have tanned skin. Despite warnings about the consequences of
Classic skin whiteners, such as
extracted from select botanical species
excessive sun or UV exposure, the artificial
hydroquinone, kojic acid or mercury
to achieve excellent lightening and
tanning industry has expanded rapidly in
compounds may act as carcinogens or
regenerating characteristics. The raw
the last decade. However, in Eastern and
cause other harmful or damaging effects.
materials were specially selected for
African markets, an age old tradition exists
In many cases, they are banned in some
optimum performance, intensive skin care,
whereby a light complexion is regarded as
markets and limited in others. As a result,
and self preservation.
a symbol of youth and beauty. In recent
interest is growing in botanicals extracts.
years, the interest in skin lightening or whitening has grown tremendously.
PLANT ACTIVES GAIN TRACTION
Used as photo-protectives and/or antioxidants, these extracts offer multiple
were assessed by methods of analysis set
biological actions on the skin and are
by European Pharmacopeia (EP). Fatty
more cost-effective than traditional skin lighteners.
One of
They are also believed to
the
be safer. Furthermore, the additive properties exerted by the phyto-constituents of plant actives make them highly suitable ingredients for use in cosmetics formulations.
INNOVATING WITH BOTANICAL EXTRACTS
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| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa
Acid, peroxide and saponification values, as well as density measurement
acids were determined by
TEXTRON AIMED TO DEVELOP A NOVEL LIPIDBASED SKIN LIGHTENER WITH THE ABILITY TO REPLACE SYNTHETIC BIOACTIVES
gas chromatography, also according to EP standards. Viscosity was measured in a Brookfield viscosimeter, with R1 spindle, at 23.5°C and 100rpm. Organoleptic properties were noted by visual inspection and the oil stability index was determined using a Rancimat instrument. The result was an oily liquid with a pleasant, slight
Textron aimed to develop a novel lipid-
fruity odour, mild acidity and viscosity.
based skin lightener and personal care
It also boasts good oxidative stability, is
product with the ability to replace synthetic
rich in highly beneficial oleic and linoleic
bioactives. Additional qualities intended
fatty acids, and is fully suitable for use
for the potential product included safety,
in cosmetics.
ETHNIC CARE ABOUT
ENHANCED EASE OF USE
making it both highly stable
Evoil Hydrasoft Lightening incorporates lipid
and preservative-free. It can
phase and bioactive principles. This allows
be applied directly to the skin, or used
manufacturers of cosmetics to replace
to replace the lipid phase in oil-based
chemical raw materials and synthetic
formulations in skin lightening and/or sun
bioactives with a vegetable-based raw
protection applications. Besides reducing
material and bioactive principles in one
skin pigmentation, this new plant-based,
step. It can be easily incorporated into a
lipo-soluble skin brightener also hydrates,
formulation, fully replacing the lipid phase.
protects and nourishes the skin.
This makes the manufacturing process
Sci. 2009, 10, 5326-5349.
easier, avoiding the steps of solubilisation
REFERENCES
or stabilisation of the whitening active
• C. Jennifer, CM Stephie, SB Abhisiri and UB
• TS Chang. 2009. An updated Review of
principles. There is also no need to add
Shalini. 2012. A review on skin whitening
chemical lightening agents, which might
property of plant extracts. Int J Pharm Bio Sci
be detrimental to the naturalness and safety of the finished product. These agents potential competitive inhibition of Evoil
prevention of photo-ageing and skin cancer.
Hydrasoft Lightening.
International Journal of Research in Cosmetic
Lightening is formulated on an oil basis,
2440-2475. • W Zhu and J Gao. 2008. The use of botanical extracts as topical skin lightening agents
2012 Oct; 3(4): (B) 332 - 347. 2011. Botanical as sunscreens: their role in the
Unlike most water-based skin lightening
Tyrosinase Inhibitors. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2009, 10,
for the improvement of skin pigmentation
• KP Balakrishnan and N Narayanaswamy.
may also affect the efficacy or cause a
actives on the market, Evoil Hydrasoft
Victoria Donat Donat, PhD, is the technical manager at Grupo Plimon, the holding company of Textron. She has more than 15 years’ experience in R&D at several leading companies and applied research centres in the areas of biomedical, agrifood and chemical or pharmaceuticals. Donat currently handles all technical and regulatory affairs at Grupo Plimon, providing technical support and developing new products and applications.
disorders. Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings (2008) 13, 20–2. • H Ozeki, S Ito, K Wakamatsu and T Hirobe. 1995. Chemical characterisation of hair melanins in
Science 2011; 1 (1) : 1-12. • N Smit, J Vicanova and S Pavel. 2009. The hunt for natural skin whitening agents. Int. J. Mol.
Tel: +27 11 473 1373 Email: sales@cirebelle.com
various coat-colour mutants of mice. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 105, 3, 361-366.
www.cirebelle.com
CIREBELLE Waxes • CIREBELLE Beads • CIREBELLE Blends • CIREBELLE Softsphere™ Cirebelle HP.indd 1
2016/06/09 2:57 PM
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |
17
ETHNIC CARE
A targeted solution for African hair An innovative ingredient from Croda, Crodazoquat MCC, presents formulators with a complete multicultural conditioning solution. This ingredient is set to assist customers in overcoming the challenges associated with formulating for the unique characteristics of African hair.
T
care revolution amongst black millennial Africans has brought with it a
new awareness of the types of damage that hair can be exposed to and their effects. This knowledge and vigour to restore damaged hair could be one of the reasons why damaged hair solutions have risen in importance in the hair care industry. From 2010 to 2015, 26 percent of global hair care launches claimed
concerns – are all related to hair damage (see Table 1).
A CLOSER LOOK AT CONDITIONING Conditioners remain one of the
alone, damaged hair claims ranked
damage. When Croda carried out
in the global top five for all hair care
a market study in Johannesburg,
products launched (Mintel GNPD).
South Africa, to ascertain how widely available conditioners are for black
KEY CHARACTERISTICS OF AFRICAN HAIR Sources of damage range from
African hair, its research team was surprised by the findings. According to Croda, very few
regular grooming like combing,
conditioning products are being
towel drying, blow drying, relaxing
developed for the black African
to environmental factors such as
with damaged hair. Out of the eight
humidity and pollution, or illness,
brands on shelf, only one offered a
stress, ageing and diet.
conditioner specifically targeted at
BY USING CETEARYL ALCOHOL AS THE SOLVENT, CRODA HAS EFFECTIVELY DEVELOPED AN INGREDIENT WITH OVER 80 PERCENT NATURAL CONTENT
black consumers. This could be due
prone to damage and the
to various reasons, though recent
effects can sometimes be
advances in hair care technology
worse on this hair type. This is
should see an increase in solutions
because it is flat in shape (not
targeted at African hair care.
round or oval shaped), has a
An example of a recent
lower moisture and oil content
development is Croda’s new
and ranges in form from wavy to
conditioning ingredient,
very tight curls. These properties
Crodazoquat MCC (Behentrimonium
do not help when the hair is
Methosulfate, Quaternium-87,
exposed to sources of damage.
Cetearyl Alcohol). Thanks to its
For example, nourishing sebum
hybrid technology, which has been
that is naturally produced in the
optimised to provide excellent
scalp does not flow all the way
conditioning benefits, this ingredient
down the curly or wavy hair fibre,
is perfect for developing conditioners
from root to tip, as it would do
for the African market.
to repair damaged hair, which was
on straighter hair. This results in less
an increase of 24 percent. In 2015
hydrated hair.
Claims linked to Crodazoquat MCC include: ‘restores
Tight curls also create stress at Table 1: The various hair care concerns of African consumers ranging from the most to least prominent
frizz – four of the top five African hair
best solutions for addressing hair
African hair is especially he recent natural hair
that breakage, dryness, fall-out and
hydrophobicity of hair’; ‘improves
each turn in the hair fibre, leaving it
hair’s aesthetics including lustre and
weak and fragile. It is not surprising
volume’; and ‘proven to be especially effective on damaged hair’. This conditioning ingredient is also interesting in terms of its composition.
Top African Hair Concerns
Despite its high cationic activity
80
at 70 percent, the product does
70
not contain any synthetic glycol
60
or volatile organic compounds. By using Cetearyl Alcohol as the solvent,
50
%
Croda has effectively developed an
40
ingredient (Crodazoquat MCC) with
30
over 80 percent natural content. The ingredient manufacturer’s
20
ultimate goal with Crodazoquat
10
MCC was to provide excellent
0
e
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18
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a ak
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ne ry
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ru
d an
D
| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa
F
t
ou
lal
izz
dy
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ilit
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M
an
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performance, especially on damaged hair. To determine the ingredient’s efficacy on actual African hair types, Crodazoquat
ETHNIC CARE Table 2: Results of the dynamic contact angle test
MCC was subjected to a series of tests with panellists in Johannesburg, South Africa.
PUT TO THE TEST In a half-head salon study
100
Virgin Hair Hydrophobicity
75
Increased Hydrophobicity
Advancing Contact 50 Angle
conducted on African hair at Croda’s Centre of Excellence, a conditioning formulation containing Crodazoquat MCC was compared
20
to a commercial African hair conditioner benchmark (see Table 3 for formulation details).
0
Three main attributes of African hair concerns were added to the
Coloured Asian
Bleached European
Relaxed Brazilian
Relaxed African
standard evaluation list, being breakage, mass volume (density)
Crodazoquat MCC
Untreated
and ease of styling. A higher score on all attributes indicated angle test was also performed
concluded that Crodazoquat MCC
to determine the amount of
improves the surface hydrophobicity
revealed the conditioner containing
Crodazoquat MCC required to restore
of hair.
Crodazoquat MCC outperformed the
hair’s hydrophobicity (see Table 2).
better performance. Test results from the panel
commercial benchmark for both the natural virgin and relaxed hair. An instrumental dynamic contact Table 3: Formulation guide for replenishing deep conditioner for African hair (HP-409)
advancing dynamic contact angle
HELPING CUSTOMERS INNOVATE
was observed on relaxed African
With the emergence of effective
hair, coloured Asian hair, bleached
technologies such as Crodazoquat
Caucasian hair and relaxed Brazilian
MCC, brand owners and
hair. From these results, it can be
manufacturers can now develop
An increase in the average
products targeted at black PHASE
INGREDIENT
A
Water
B
C
INCI NAME
%
consumers to restore damaged hair.
87.50
As a hybrid technology, the ingredient has an exciting range
Arlasilk PLN
(Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate Dimethicone, Aqua)
1.00
Crodazoquat MCC
(Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Quaternium-87, Cetearyl Alcohol)
2.00
have been shown to be effective on
Crodacol CS50
(Cetearyl Alcohol)
6.00
African hair. Ultimately, Crodazoquat
DuraQuench IQ SA
(Cetyl Alcohol, Isostearyl Isostearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cetyl Stearate, Stearic Acid)
1.00
Cropure Almond
(Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil)
0.50
Cropure Apricot Kernel
(Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil)
0.50
Keravis PE
(Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein PG-Propyl Silanetriol, Aqua)
1.00
Euxyl K712
(Water, Sodium, Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate)
0.50
Chemsystems, Consumer Specialities division, is a supplier of locally manufactured and importer of speciality and commodity raw materials into the Personal Care, Homecare, Pharmaceutical and Industrial markets. “Our expertise, your solution”
ChemSystems.indd 1
of conditioning capabilities, which
MCC promotes hair health by restoring natural hydrophobicity and enhancing hair’s aesthetics in a consumer perceivable way. •
Croda – www.croda.com
Johannesburg Thureya Sarlie Tel +27 (0)11 922 1636 Email thureya.sarlie@Chemsystems.co.za Technical Wesley Perumal Tel +27 (0)11 922 1721 Email wesley.perumal@Chemsystems.co.za AECI Chempark, 200 Bergrivier Drive, Chloorkop, Kempton Park
Chemsystems a division of AECI
2016/06/14 11:09 AM
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |
19
ETHNIC CARE
Blurred lines A new generation of personal care products is emerging with multifunctional benefits. Kim MacCallum from Vantage SA explores this trend and the ingredients best suited to developing products that offer several advantages to the consumer.
C
DID YOU KNOW?
ross-category influence in beauty and
trend started off with the launch of the BB cream format, which not only brightens the
REALISING JOJOBA’S POTENTIAL In line with the multifunctional
colour cosmetics. This is
Research analysts from Technavio predict the global personal care ingredients market to register a CAGR of around five percent between 2016 and 2020. The growing demand for personal care products is the major growth driver for this market.
according to a hair care
Source: Technavio’s report Global
and anti-ageing properties.
popularity within the skin and hair
Personal Care Ingredients
The makeup category has
care markets. New studies and
personal
care is becoming increasingly common, with overlaps occurring in skin and hair care and
report published by Mintel at
Market 2016 to 2020
the end of 2013. In March of 2016, the global research consultancy
complexion and offers
developing ingredients that offer
also provides evenness
cross-category benefits. Jojoba oil
in skin tone. Some BB
is a leading example. The benefits
cream variations also
of jojoba are becoming more
include SPF protection
and more apparent as it grows in
also inspired recent innovations in hair care, such as the hair
noted this rising trend spreading
style-extender that locks a style into
throughout the Middle East, India and
place for a longer period and hair
Africa, stating that ‘women of today
foundations for touching-up regrowth
are taking on multiple roles, from managing their careers to running households and looking after their families’. With limited time to themselves, modern women require personal care
FORMULATORS CAN NOW CREATE A CLEAR SHAMPOO WITH SHEA BUTTER
products that are easy to use and provide multifunctional benefits. As a result, Mintel has noted the emergence of products that offer several benefits rolled into one. The
or greying locks. There is also a rising interest
data are being made available on just how beneficial Jojoba is to hair and skin. With the purchase of the Desert Whale company a few years ago and more recently, Agrinsa in Argentina, Vantage Specialty
in hair perfumes among
Chemicals is now the world’s largest
African consumers. This
producer of Jojoba oil. Thanks to
product format offers both
its leading position, the company
the standalone option and
has conducted extensive research
an extension to fragrance
on the jojoba plant and the
ancillaries and bath and
various types of products that can
body collections. Besides leaving hair smelling fresh, hair perfumes provide protection against UV damage, prevent colour from fading, and help hair to
Figure 1: Microscopic images reveal positive results after just one wash of a shampoo formulation containing 5.5 percent Jojoba Pro-HP
trend, raw materials’ suppliers are
renewed radiance, but
be produced. One such example is Jojoba ProHP. This is a solution of hydrolysed jojoba protein derived from the jojoba seed. This unique, non-
retain maximum moisture
allergenic protein acts as a natural
and nourishment.
moisturiser and has exceptional film forming properties, both in skin and hair care applications. In hair care formulations, Jojoba Pro-HP repairs damage and improves shine. Due to its high amino acid content, the solution has an amphoteric charge that creates an affinity to the hair follicle. When used at 5.5 percent in a shampoo, positive results are seen after one wash (see Figure 1). These include cuticle smoothing and visible repair of the follicle. Its versatility means it can be used in hair masks, treatments, serums, shampoos and conditioners. In skin care, it can be used to nourish and illuminate tiered and dull skin.
20
| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa
ETHNIC CARE
Vantage recommends Jojoba
based cleansing products,
Pro-HP be used at one to five
and provides the softening and
percent in a formulation.
conditioning properties associated
CLEAR FORMULATIONS WITH SHEA
with solid Shea butter. With this ingredient innovation, formulators can now create a
Liponate SB-50, also available from
clear shampoo with Shea butter,
Vantage, is another ingredient
providing consumers with the
offering multiple benefits. It is a 50
unique benefits of Shea in a wash-
mole ethoxylate of Shea butter,
off product.
making it a water dispersible
Panel tests were conducted
emollient specifically developed for
using a shampoo with 2.5 percent
aqueous-based formulations.
Liponate SB-50 and the results were
Shea butter is an off- white fat
impressive. A marked improvement
extracted from the nut of the African
was noticed in the conditioning,
shea tree. It is a triglyceride derived
wet combing and drying time of
mainly from stearic acid and oleic
the hair.
acid. The history of Shea butter can
The recommended use level
be traced back to Ancient Egypt,
for this product is between one
where it was used to protect the hair
and five percent. It is suitable for
and skin against the sun and the
use in a variety of applications
hot dry winds of the African deserts
from shampoos and leave-in
and savannah.
conditioners to bath and body care
This liquid Shea butter is easy to
Vantage demonstrates the clarity of its liquid shea butter offering using two shampoo samples, one formulated with Liponate SB-50 (left) and the other without (right)
ABOUT Kim MacCallum joined the Vantage SA team in 2013. She holds a BSc in natural health, and has completed the Coschem Diploma in Cosmetic Science. MacCallum has been an active member of Coschem since 2004, and currently sits on the council.
products. In a face wash or shower
handle and can be used both in hot
cream, Liponate SB-50 offers the
and cold process applications. It
most luxurious of foams with good
also adds emolliency to surfactant-
moisturising benefits. •
Vantage Specialty Chemicals – www.vantagespecialties.com
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |
21
COMPANY FOCUS
A pioneering spirit in Africa Changing lives through innovation, preserving beauty, adding colour and convenience to everyday offerings, and ensuring better access to health care have been at the centre of Merck’s international efforts for 350 years. By Abby Vorster
I
demanding applications. The company is the largest supplier of effect pigments worldwide and is regarded as a major innovator in this area of business. Its functional materials portfolio includes active skin care ingredients such as antiaging actives, anti-oxidants
been active since 1971, though
as well as anti-acne actives,
recent developments within the
and safe and effective skin
global company have seen it
lightening ingredients, which
earmarking Africa for considerable
are of particular interest
growth and expansion.
to the African market. Merck also supplies a
around 400 people across 10
comprehensive range
African countries and aims to
of UV filters, both
increase this number to around
organic and inorganic
1000 by 2020.
filters, as well as
Merck’s largest location is South Africa. Here the company operates three
some specialty glass encapsulated UV filters. To complement this
divisions: Life Science
range, its functional
with the recent Sigma
fillers enhance
integration; Health Care;
its customers’
and Performance Materials.
formulations
The performance materials
in a number
division spans pigments and
of ways. These
functional materials with a strong
include improving
focus on high quality solutions.
the appearance of
‘In terms of our pigments and
the product, providing
functional materials, we offer
superior skin feel, or, most
unmatched batch consistency.
importantly, assisting in
For the cosmetics industry, our
supporting a product’s claims.
strengths lie in strong efficacy
These pigments can act as skin
data and claim support, as
correctors or enhancers. They
well as specialist innovative
DID YOU KNOW?
products like our glass encapsulated sunscreen
Merck plays an important role in building health care capacity in Africa, addressing non-communicable diseases, with a focus on rural areas, medical students and local partnerships with academia, ministries of health, policy makers and governments. Source: Belen Garijo, CEO of
active in the Eusolex UV-Pearls range, which represent a new dimension in UV protection,’ comments Karen Maier, sales and marketing manager for performance
materials.
A BEAUTIFUL APPROACH Driven by a passion for new ideas, Merck’s performance materials
22
speciality chemicals for particularly
n sub-Saharan Africa, Merck has
The company currently employs
Merck Healthcare
division is also known to develop
| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa
also provide improved product efficiency like enhancing the slip of an eye shadow. Merck’s application kits for the cosmetics
COMPANY FOCUS
industry are particularly innovative, catching the attention of customers by showcasing pigments, functional fillers, actives and other
BRAND BUILDING IN AFRICA Addressing
unique ingredients in cosmetics
unmet medical
applications. Through this targeted
needs on the
and interactive approach, delivered
African continent
during workshops and customer
is another major objective of
days, formulators are able to
Merck. This is why the company’s
experience the benefits and true
growth strategy for Africa mainly
value of Merck’s personal care
encompasses its health care and
and cosmetics ingredients. The
life science businesses. It has
company also offers assistance
earmarked 2016 as the year of
with colour matching and colour
investment for Merck’s consumer
combinations, while its high-
health business in selected African
quality pigments ensure batch-to-
countries, focusing specifically on its
batch consistency. Merck’s decorative pigments
prescription-free, over-the-counter (OTC) pharmaceutical products.
can enhance a formulation in
The company also plans to market
many ways. They provide an on-skin
its well-known brands Seven Seas,
sparkle or improve the aesthetic
Femibion and Neurobion in Africa.
appeal of a cream for example.
AFRICA’S MUSE
Discussing the company’s
TOWARDS THE END of November 2015, Merck launched the sale of its Muse cell analyser, which is used to detect HIV. The Muse Auto CD4/ CD4 percent system is now available in several African countries for monitoring patients’ specific T-lymphocyte cell counts. These are standard indicators of when to begin treatment for opportunistic infections, initiate antiretroviral therapy, and monitor the progression of diseases such as HIV. This system, which is a low cost platform, enables the rapid, simple and accurate monitoring of these key parameters in adults and children. In addition, the Muse Auto CD4/CD4 percent system combines a compact, integrated benchtop instrument with a unique proprietary assay and automated gating and acquisition software to easily monitor patients’ CD4 T lymphocytes. Minimum technical expertise is needed to operate and obtain high quality results while a user-friendly touchscreen interface and intuitive software work together to simplify operation and analysis.
These pigments are also ideal for
strategy to adjust its value
use with claims associated with
proposition to the needs of the
after the health of one’s family.
radiance, brilliance, luminosity,
African continent, Johann Kotze,
Not only does Merck have various
and glow, transforming an ordinary
Merck’s general manager,
strengths as a consumer health
emulsion into a targeted night or day cream. All of the aforementioned
Intercontinental – Africa for
care expert, it is also the oldest
consumer health, says: ‘Our drive
pharmaceuticals and chemicals
is built around the proposition of
company in the world. ‘These
products are available from Orkila,
having focused investment into
characteristics provide the ideal
which looks after customers in
relevant markets where we have
platform to be a trusted brand for
the cosmetics industry, in Kenya,
evaluated the categories in which
consumers,’ he adds. ‘Merck has
Nigeria, Ghana, Ivory Coast
we are active. This evaluation was
been very fortunate that in the
and Algeria, on behalf of Merck.
conducted through consumer
markets it has entered, the company
This is because there are great
insights and extensive consumer
has achieved a strong market
synergies between Orkila’s existing
research. Africa is not one
position in the majority of cases.
portfolio and what Merck offers, so
homogeneous group of markets;
In South Africa, Iliadin and Slow
customers can expect to have all
each region and even countries
Mag are market leaders in their
their needs met.
have distinct differences both in
respective categories and have
consumer attitudes to health care,
been for more than a decade.
specifically OTCs. Their access and
This has given us a lot of trust
levels of knowledge around the OTC
among consumers. In Africa,
medicines environment also differ.’
the Seven Seas brand has
MERCK’S SAFE AND EFFECTIVE SKIN LIGHTENING INGREDIENTS ARE OF PARTICULAR INTEREST TO THE AFRICAN MARKET
As a company, Merck believes it
a heritage of more than
is equally important to build brands
30 years in the eastern
as it is to raise awareness around
and western regions,
self-medication, nutrition and
with consumer often
specific therapeutic areas. ‘This
remarking “I grew up with
education process alongside our
this brand”.’
consumer insights will lead the way
In addition to selling
to finding ways of delighting African
products in Africa, Merck
consumers in their respective
aims to tap into the continent’s
markets,’ he adds.
potential for cutting-edge innovation. Merck believes this will
A STRONG HERITAGE COUNTS
help shape the future of Africa,
In the proliferated OTC medicines
global challenges. •
while inspiring solutions to tackle
environment, Kotze says that when choosing a brand, trust and comfort are vital when it comes to looking
Merck – www.merck.com
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |
23
PERSONAL CARE
Increased urbanisation and sophistication Botanically based, scientifically proven personal care products are on the rise in Africa. This is thanks to the emerging middle class and consumer demand for more sophisticated products. Savannah Fine Chemicals highlights a variety of ingredient innovations in line with this trend.
C
onsumers in Nigeria,
other emulsifiers. It also improves
particularly among
the stability of emulsions.
the middle income and high income
groups, are looking beyond simple bar soap offerings for their bath and body care needs. According to Euromonitor International, they are even prone to purchasing more expensive products such as
DID YOU KNOW?
The properties of Creamy
and combability. Glossy Shea is also an excellent re-fattening agent
According to market in body washes and hair research company, shampoos, and reduces effect, which reduces Technavio, the beauty the roughness caused by the roughness caused and personal care market in Africa is expected to surfactants. With its high by surfactants in body grow at a CAGR of 8.24 content in un-saponifiable washes and soaps. It is percent over the matter (tocopherols, also easy to formulate with, period 2014 to triterpenic alcohols, phytosterols suitable for anhydrous formulas, 2019. Shea include a restructuring
introduced in the fat phase of an
and kariten etc.), Olvea Glossy
movements in the market are seeing
emulsion, and offers nourishing and
Shea has considerable cosmetic
brand owners and manufacturers
revitalising benefits.
properties. These are beneficial in
body wash and shower gel. These
placing increased emphasis on line
According to Olvea, its Creamy
a variety of applications including
extensions and innovation in the
Shea is ideally suited for use in
a daily moisturiser, conditioner,
area of enhanced performance in
the following finished products:
powdery body lotion, and
bath and shower products.
a cocoon body balm; creamy
massage oil.
Olvea Vegetable Oils, represented throughout Africa by
moisturiser; or conditioner.
Shea butter in three varieties for use
GET THE GLOSSY BENEFITS
in skin, hair, and bath and body
Olvea Glossy Shea is an
care products.
effective moisturiser that adds
Savannah Fine Chemicals, offers
CREAMY AND COMFORTING
shine and textural properties to skin and hair care formulations. It is marketed as a multipurpose
GLOSSY SHEA IS ALSO AN EXCELLENT RE-FATTENING AGENT IN BODY WASHES AND HAIR SHAMPOOS
AS SMOOTH AS SILK Presented as a light-weight alternative to conventional Shea butter, Olvea Silky Shea imparts lightness and a velvety after-feel to skin and hair care formulations. This multipurpose ingredient is rapidly absorbed into the skin, providing an
Olvea Creamy Shea is a new
ingredient, which gives
innovative ester based on a
consistency to a formulation. In
combination of Shea butter and
hair care applications, it offers
the company’s scientific expertise.
smoothing and conditioning
This emollient with co-emulsifying
properties, while its restructuring
spreading properties, and
properties increases the potential of
effect improves hair gloss
enhances the slip or improves the
24
| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa
instant moisturising effect and radiant glow on skin and hair. The ingredient has great
PERSONAL CARE
COSMETICS MIRACLE OIL ACCORDING TO A new report by Grand View Research, the global Argan oil market is expected to reach US$1.79 billion by 2022. This is as a result of widening in Argan-based cosmetics product lines and expanding medical application. The report also mentions the personal care industry is the leading application segment and accounted for over 40 percent of total demand in 2014. The use of Argan oil in cosmetics and personal care products is expected to continue to show significant growth in the coming years with the Middle East and Africa being the main regions worldwide for the production and consumption of the oil. Savannah Fine Chemicals also distributes Olvea’s Argan oil throughout southern Africa. The company is a leading producer of Argan oil, which contains exceptionally high levels of essential fatty acids. Its content of oleic acid softens and soothes the skin while providing enhanced shine. The oil’s linoleic acid content, an essential fatty acid, gives the hydrating properties. Argan oil is suitable for use in a variety of personal care applications, including bath oils, body lotions and butters, skin care products and hair conditioners and masks. glide of a finished product. It also reduces the tackiness of heavy formulations. Possible applications with Silky Shea include a dry body oil, powdery body lotion, shower oil, shine enhancer hair care serum, conditioner, and shampoo.
ALTERNATIVE TO MICRO BEADS Sensocel exfoliating scrubs are pure cellulose granules, which are obtained during a particularly gentle production of different natural raw materials. As a result of their abrasive structure, the exfoliating scrubs are a natural and effective alternative to microplastics like polyethylene beads. These sustainable and bio-degradable particles are gentle on humans and nature. Their technological properties are as follows: • insoluble and inert plant fibre granules • easy dispersion and easy to process in emulsions • temperature and pH stable ingredients • free from allergens, GMO free, and vegan. Their functional properties include exfoliation and skin protecting cleansing effects in shower gels and facial cleansers. They also offer a gentle cleansing effect in toothpaste to protect dental enamel and dentine. They have high water binding capacity and oil absorption to support the stabilisation of emulsions. Sensocel exfoliating scrubs are available in different particle sizes of 50 μm to 800 μm, and can be sourced from Savannah Fine Chemicals. •
Savannah Fine Chemicals – sfc-info@savannah.co.za
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |
25
PHARMACEUTICAL FOCUS//Generics
A flexible approach to patents
GSK has made significant changes to intellectual property (IP) protection policy, making it possible for manufacturers of generic medicines throughout Africa to produce and supply versions of its medicines.
A
head of a meeting of
(LICs), GSK will not file patents for its
the UN High Level
DID YOU KNOW?
Panel on Access to Medicines
on 31 March, GSK CEO, Sir Andrew Witty, set out a series of steps designed to help bring innovative medicines from the company to more
medicines, so as to give clarity and confidence to generic
The International Generic and Biosimilar Medicines Association strongly supports the negotiation of trade agreements between countries aimed at fostering trade in generic and biosimilar medicines.
people living in the world’s
Source: The National Association of Pharmaceutical
poorest countries.
low income and middle income countries through voluntary licensing arrangements. Expanding
manufacture and supply
this approach to oncology would
generic versions of GSK
enable generic versions of GSK’s
medicines in those
next generation immuno-oncology
countries. For lower
and epigenetic therapies,
middle income countries
currently in clinical development,
(LMICs) generally, the company will file for patents but will seek to offer
Manufacturers.
GSK has a deep commitment
companies seeking to
TB and hepatitis C medicines in
and agree licences to allow
to be made available in LDCs, LICs and certain middle income countries, if and when they receive regulatory approval.
to improving health care by
supplies of generic versions of its
developing innovative new
medicines for 10 years. This offer
medicines and widening access
will even apply for those countries
RETHINKING THE IP BUSINESS MODEL
to them around the world. Over
that move out of LMIC status due
The company will also work towards
the past eight years, it has taken
to increased economic growth
making information about its
steps in a number of areas
during this period. For high income
current and future patent portfolio
including tiered pricing, health care
countries, upper middle income
freely available.
infrastructure building, data sharing
countries and G20 countries, the
and innovative partnerships.
company will continue to seek
is a vital part of health care
The pharmaceutical
Sir Witty comments: ‘IP protection
full patent protection. Any GSK
innovation, providing necessary
manufacturer recognises that
medicines on the World Health
incentives for investment in
improving access around the
Organization’s list of essential
research to create new treatments
world requires a flexible and
medicines will be included in
that can help people around the
multifaceted approach to IP protection. While IP stimulates and underpins continued investment in research and development, GSK believes being flexible with its IP can help address pressing health challenges in developing countries. Building on this perspective, the company is evolving its graduated approach to filing and enforcing patents so
GSK BELIEVES BEING FLEXIBLE WITH ITS IP CAN HELP ADDRESS PRESSING HEALTH CHALLENGES IN DEVELOPING COUNTRIES
that IP protection reflects a country’s economic maturity.
these changes.
A FIRST FOR CANCER TREATMENTS
world. In itself, IP is not a barrier to access to medicines. However, we recognise the global health care challenge requires us to be flexible
GSK has also outlined its intent
in our approach and responsive
to commit its future portfolio of
to different needs, particularly
cancer treatments to patent
as the disease burden shifts from
pooling and will explore the
infectious to non-communicable
concept with the Medicines
diseases. We continuously look
Patent Pool (MPP) to help
at ways that GSK can further
address the increasing burden
contribute to increasing access
of cancer in developing
to medicines.’
countries. It would be the first
Implementation of these
company to take this step.
proposals will be subject to local
Since it was established in 2010,
laws. GSK will now consult with its
For least developed countries
the MPP has been successful
licensing and co-development
(LDCs) and low income countries
in accelerating access to HIV,
partners on these changes. •
26
| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa
QUALITY CONTROL
Keeping it clean Ecolab Contamination Control (Ecolab) has launched a unique product, Klercide Sporicidal Alcohol. It is set to bring groundbreaking developments to the pharmaceutical industry where the transfer disinfection process is concerned.
A
s a worldwide provider
which cause significant wetting –
of leading products
a feature not recommended for
and services for the
transfer disinfection. This can also
control of microbial
grow the risk of inadequate product
An operator cleaning a controlled environment with Ecolab’s Klercide Sporicidal Alcohol
purpose built cleanroom and is supported by the firm’s process match assurance mark. This highlights that the manufacturing
contamination in cleanroom
contact, leading to poor practical
environments, Ecolab’s Klercide
performance. Process time may
customers. It is also fitted with
Sporicidal Alcohol offers all the
also be increased or it may require
the patented SteriShield delivery
positive features of an alcohol-
transfer to take place while the
system, which is the only fully
based disinfectant. These include
items are still wet. Water-based
validated trigger spray system
a low surface tension, which
sporicides are known to result in
on the market. This ensures
improves product contact. It
pooling, which can significantly
the integrity of the product
also has a ‘flash off’ time of
reduce material compatibility
is protected throughout its
just two minutes and minimal
and increase the likelihood of
entire use.
residues, which combined with its
residue build-up.
sporicidal properties, significantly enhance its efficacy.
ANSWERING INDUSTRY DEMAND
improve their processes and
where spores evade the disinfection
deliver contamination control
process are extremely serious.
without compromise. •
This is a view supported by Good
Alcohol will minimise the risk
guidelines. GMP Annex 1 reads:
of introducing spores to the
‘the transfer of materials into and
manufacturing process during
out of the cleanroom is one of
transfer disinfection. This process
the greatest potential sources of
has long posed a significant
contamination’.
pharmacies etc. According to Ecolab, it has been specifically developed
Alcohol customers will
inadequate transfer disinfection
Manufacturing Practice (GMP)
manufacturers and hospital
By using Klercide Sporicidal
The consequences of
Critically, Klercide Sporicidal
challenge to pharmaceutical
processes match those of its
Klercide Sporicidal Alcohol from Ecolab
Ecolab Contamination Control – www.ecolab.com
NO COMPROMISE ON QUALITY Klercide Sporicidal Alcohol is manufactured in Ecolab’s own
to address a long-standing need to provide a sterile sporicidal product with the key characteristics of alcohol for the transfer disinfection process.
COMPANY SNAP SHOT
This is in line with recent regulatory guidelines, including
ECOLAB DELIVERS COMPREHENSIVE solutions
GMP Annex 1 and PIC/S P1007-6,
and on-site services to promote and maintain
which states: ‘sporicidal agents
clean environments, optimise water and energy
should be used wherever possible
use, and improve operational efficiencies.
but particularly for spraying in
Its customers span the pharmaceutical,
components and equipment in
biotechnology, health care, food, energy,
aseptic areas’.
hospitality and industrial markets. The company
SUPERIOR TO WATERBASED SPORICIDES In the past, water-based
has distribution agents and/or offices in more than 170 countries around the world, and has an extensive footprint throughout the African continent.
sporicides have been used
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |
27
QUALITY CONTROL
Focus on functional
and modular solutions
Octanorm was established in South Africa 24 years ago with the sole focus of supplying aluminium construction systems to the exhibition industry. The company has evolved over the years to offer modular cleanroom systems to pharmaceutical and chemical manufacturers throughout sub-Saharan Africa.
P
resented in a modular
The installation is completed
aluminium format, the
by approved contractors,
Octanorm cleanroom
which have many
system offers several
years of experience
advantages. Beert Kuiken, MD of
in cleanrooms.’
Octanorm explains: ‘The walling,
With the cleanroom system
DID YOU KNOW?
being the youngest division in the company’s stable, Kuiken says Octanorm South Africa is currently
Octanorm cleanrooms are investing in manufacturing the topped off with a unique branded cleanroom system ceiling system that can be in South Africa, ensuring a altered, enlarged, shrunk quality product available at a or modified according more affordable price. ‘We have to the client’s requirements. seen that the efficiency, flexibility
door and ceiling system allows for
Functional add-ons
a range of different configuration
The cleanroom system
options and accommodates a wide
allows for a variety of door-
variety of finishes and infill panels.
and-pass-through hatch
Its greatest advantage is the speed
options, as well as various
and quality of the product speak
and simplicity of assembling the
security and automation processes
for itself as many new clients have
system, which can be dismantled,
to be integrated into the system.
come through referrals and existing
reconfigured and modified numerous
customers have continuously
Furthermore, the laminar flow units
times. Ultimately the lightweight
from Octanorm allow for various
cleanroom system can be seen as a
configurations with no limitations
movable asset.’
on the options available to the
supported us,’ he concludes. • 1
2
client. ‘Because the laminar flow
Construction efficiency at its best
units are manufactured locally from
The cleanroom systems are designed
cleanroom walls, ceilings and doors,
and developed at the Octanorm
they are quick to assemble, can be
head office in Germany. This
manufactured in extremely short time
means an internationally approved
frames and ultimately look sleek and
technology is available to the sub-
clean,’ adds Kuiken.
the very same system used for the
Saharan African pharmaceutical integrated configuration solutions.
Precision technology to be developed locally
‘Most locally available solutions
Cleanrooms in the pharmaceutical
industry along with a wide range of
do not allow for the flexibility offered
industry are required to
by Octanorm,’ he comments. ‘With
meet stringent standards. To
over 40 years’ experience in quality
accommodate them, Octanorm
aluminium construction systems, the
cleanrooms are certifiable for all
brand offers a range of cleanroom
GMP/ISO classes. They are also
systems and accessories that are
built modularly, allowing for
extremely efficient.’
high flexibility, and are easy to
Discussing the company’s hands-on approach to project
expand and convert. a common principle in the
works with the client to develop
connecting technology, the
a solution that best meets their
four individual Octanorm
cleanroom requirements. ‘HVAC,
offerings can be cross-
lighting and equipment specialists
pollinated to form an
are consulted to ensure that all
even wider variety of
components of the cleanroom
efficient construction and
are integrated and optimised.
framing solutions.
| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa
1
Example of an interior door in an Octanorm cleanroom
2
The wall system is an integral and versatile part of Octanorm’s cleanroom systems
3
The laminar flow unit from Octanorm is not only customisable but also quick to assemble
As all of the systems have
management, Kuiken says his team
28
3
Octanorm South Africa – www.octanorm.co.za
PACKAGING//Flexible Packaging
Exploring new facets in flexibles The benefits of flexible packaging are extensive for pharmaceutical, cosmetics and home care brands. Machinery and film suppliers offer reliable solutions for creating packs that are robust and eye-catching. By Nikita Geldenhuys
P
ouches and sachets
overwrap cartons for perfumes and
are popular packaging
cosmetics. These clear substrates
solutions in African FMCG
convey a message of quality to
industries because of
the consumer and ensure strong
their lighter weight, affordability,
seals on minimal sealing areas.
decoration potential and
Polyvinylidene chloride-coated films
convenience for the consumer.
such as Propafilm RXD are, however,
P C Review Africa takes a look
increasingly being adopted in
at flexible packaging machinery,
this market. These materials are
as well as film and finished pack
resistant to whitening when in
manufacturers that deliver quality
contact with alcohol-based
products aimed at making
liquids like perfume. This
stronger, brighter and safer
allows packaging to retain
pouches, bags and sachets.
clarity in the event of
OVERWRAP FILMS WITH A DIFFERENCE
contact with the product during spraying. When it comes to bundling
Innovia Films (Innovia) has been
multiple products together, it
supplying biaxially oriented
is essential the outer shrink film of
polypropylene (BOPP) films
the bundle does not stick to the
to the packaging industry
inner film covering the units. The
for over 45 years under the
overwrap or collation film holding
trademark, Propafilm.
the products together should
The company manufactures
be removable without causing
Propafilm using a unique ‘bubble’
damage to the inner packs.
process, which produces
Innovia’s RC film, NC and SNC
substrates with balanced
materials are ideal solutions for
orientation and properties. The
this problem. This range of new
materials have superior clarity and
coextruded materials offers a low
exceptional gloss – ideal qualities
seal threshold, which avoids heat
for pharmaceutical and cosmetics
sealing to the inner packs.
packaging. They also boast mechanical, balanced shrink properties and high stiffness. Innovia’s additional coating capabilities have allowed the manufacturer to extend its BOPP range with speciality products to suit any requirement or application. Propafilm RXD and RC address the specific needs of the cosmetics and personal care industries. Acrylic-coated BOPP films have traditionally been used to
The iFoodbag keeps pharmaceuticals such as vaccines cool for up to 24 hours
Amaia Cowan, market manager at Innovia, enthuses: ‘We are proud of our BOPP filmic overwrap solutions, which are ideally
DID YOU KNOW?
suited to pharmaceutical and cosmetics applications. Our offering includes glossy
The global market for flexible packaging is expected to grow at an estimated compound annual growth rate of 5.11 percent by 2021.
films to enhance shelf appeal, shrink tightening films for exceptional pack appearance, and collation films. Look out for future developments in the
Propafilm range, including easy opening films.’
Polyvinylidene chloridecoated films, such as Innovia’s Propafilm RXD, are resistant to whitening when in contact with alcohol-based liquids like perfume
HALLMARK OF QUALITY FLEXIBLES AllFlex in South Africa is a manufacturer and printer of flexible packaging materials. It produces plain and printed films for agents and packers operating in various southern African markets. Its substrates are custom-made to protect products against moisture, bacteria, sunlight and harsh chemicals. The company’s polyester, polypropylene, low density polyethylene and metallised films are used to produce formfill-seal bags as well as pouches. Supplied in reel form, the thickness of the materials ranges from 12 to 600 microns. The company relies on flexographic printing to create high-resolution graphics on its films. ‘Images are printed using rapid
P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2016 |
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PACKAGING//Flexible Packaging
Its side and bottom seal machines are developed and built in South Africa. Hundreds of these
co-owner of AllFlex. ‘With our collection of four-colour, six-colour and eight-colour printing presses, we are able to serve any flexible substrate printing need.’ The manufacturer formulates its films for pharmaceutical packaging based on the level of protection each product requires. Its multi-laminate materials are
Innovia’s RC film for overwrapping of bundled products has a low seal threshold, which keeps the outer layer of the wrap from sticking to the film that covers the units inside the bundle
The company has signed a purchasing contract with Equator
the last two decades, and operate
One Logistics. Up to 20 million carrier
successfully in the US, Europe,
bags will be distributed throughout
Middle and Far East, and South
the continent to support efforts to
Africa. The company also distributes
reduce and prevent starvation and
to Malawi, Namibia, Swaziland,
food waste. Ali points out that the
Zambia and Zimbabwe.
innovation also finds application in
Its latest development is an
transporting pharmaceuticals: ‘This
improvement to its BSM 1000 LH2
carrier bag will ensure safe delivery
twin servo/twin bottom seal bag
for temperature-sensitive medicines
maker. The machine is being used
and vaccines in environments
by African convertors to produce
where electricity is not available or
flexible packaging for washing
not consistent.’
food products. plates,’ explains Steven Samuels,
for up to 24 hours.
units have been produced over
powder, as well as food and pet drying liquid inks and photopolymer
chilling and freezing functionality
The design of the BSM 1000 has
The iFoodbag team flew to Kenya to research the possibilities the pack holds for pharmaceuticals
been enhanced by adding a third
and food in exposed environments.
servo drive, which drives its excenter
It found that vaccines cannot be
shaft for the second sealing bar
kept cooler than 15°C using present
movement. The upgraded model
solutions. The new pack’s cooling
is known as the BSM 1000 LH3.
technology keeps products at
Additional features were introduced
a temperature of between two
to this unit, including spine/lap seal
and eight degrees Celsius for a
capabilities for sheeting, as well as
longer period of time than was
separate in-line gusseting of lap-
previously possible.
sealed tubular film. It produces open-ended bags,
The first carrier bags have already been shipped and will
used to produce pouches for
with options to include a handle
gradually be distributed by Equator
liquids, capsules and tablets in the
or four-finger hole punch, and
One Logistics, which is in direct
pharmaceutical industry.
a header seal. A separate unit
contact with aid organisations. The
can be attached to the machine
packs will be used to keep both
with us because of the quality
to produce the lap seals. The
pharmaceuticals and foodstuffs
of our product, as well as the
improvement has been made
cooler for longer.
excellent service they receive.
possible by Technimac’s long-
Our lead times are short and we
standing affiliation with Günter
be a game changer when it comes
are very fl exible. The hierarchy of
Kunststoffmaschinen in Germany.
to helping people in need, and
‘Our customers enjoy working
‘We believe that the iFoodbag will
decision makers are also
The relationship
we are very proud to be working
short, making it possible
enables the company
with the team, as well as the aid
for us to respond almost
to remain at the
organisations. This will change the
immediately to requests
forefront of bag making
delivery system in Africa and can be
and client changes.’
technology.
a lifesaving product,’ Ali concludes.
TRUSTWORTHY BAG MAKING TECHNOLOGY
KEEPING VACCINES COOL IN TRANSIT
This development is proof that flexible packaging technology continues to advance, from smarter materials to machinery that enables
Technimac is an
Abdulaziz Ali, CEO of
convertors to offer greater variety to
importer, distributor and
Equator One Logistics
customers. With these innovations,
manufacturer of plastic
in Kenya, has lauded
manufacturers are able to create
processing machinery.
a new temperature-
attractive, convenient packaging
Its solutions for the flexible
controlling packaging
that keeps products safe. •
packaging industry include
innovation as a solution to
imported monolayer and
transporting vaccines and
multilayer blown-film lines,
sensitive medicines. The
slitting and rewinding
innovation was developed
machines, heavy duty bag
by iFoodbag in Sweden,
making units, and reel-to-
which designed a unique
reel machinery.
paper carrier bag with
30
| QUARTER 2 2016 | P C Africa
AllFlex – www.allflex.co.za iFoodbag – www.ifoodbag.com Innovia Films – www.innoviafilms.com Technimac – www.technimac.co.za