Open Skies | July 2016

ON THE ROAD WITH MUHAMMAD ALI

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ContributorS

Chris Anderson, Andrew Birbeck, Marina Chetner, Gemma Correll, Gary Evans, Vincent Long, Matt Mostyn, Carolyn Stritch, Sandra Tinari, Stuart Turton, Vincent Long Cover: Peter Angelo Simon

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EditoriaL ConSuLtantS for EMiratES Editor Manna Talib arabiC Editor Hatem Omar dEPuty Editor Catherine Freeman WEbSitE emirates.com

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E D I T O R ’ S

L E T T E R

ANDREW NAGY

ON THE COVER

SENIOR EDITOR

I

n November 1990, Muhammad Ali travelled to Baghdad. A nation under Saddam Hussein’s rule, Iraq’s forces had recently rumbled into neighbouring Kuwait and taken a number of US citizens hostage in the process. As fears grew for their safety, The Champ was sent in to try and bring them back. As we’ve seen in the weeks since his passing, Muhammad Ali offered us some astonishing feats during his lifetime, from redefining a spor t, to making a principled stand against his government,

movement. “The man who views the world at 50 as he did at 20 has wasted 30 years,” he would later offer by way of explanation. One man who cer tainly felt the love of Ali was photographer Peter Angelo Simon – and from the ver y first day as par t of his training camp, too. Simon’s cover stor y enlists you as par t of Ali’s entourage ahead of the famed Rumble In The Jungle fight with George Foreman. It explains how ever ywhere he went – from high school to care

“AS FEARS GREW FOR THE SAFETY OF THE HOSTAGES, MUHAMMAD ALI WAS SENT IN TO TRY AND NEGOTIATE THEIR FREEDOM” to beating the best (then losing to them, then beating them again), but there can surely be no better measure of his global stature than this moment. Only for Ali could the headline ‘former boxer sent to save hostages at the hands of foreign dictator’ ever make any sense at all. While he inspired millions, what’s occasionally glossed over is that Ali had to work hard for his public adoration – as much as he did to win any fight in the ring – and although he would ultimately outgrow them, his incendiar y views split America in the heat of the civil rights

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home to boxing ring – this was a man who inspired absolute adoration. A man who could end wars, not star t them. Which takes us back to the Iraqi capital. After weeks of protracted negation – Hussein had kept him waiting at ever y turn – Ali eventually came home with the hostages. Humble in victor y, perhaps for the first time, but as ever sending the world a ver y clear message. “Life is shor t,” he would later explain. “We get old fast. It doesn’t make sense to waste time on hating.” Enjoy the issue.

ON THE ROAD WITH MUHAMMAD ALI The photographer Peter Angelo Simon spent just two days with Ali in 1974, ahead of the fight of his life. However, his pictures show a side to the man that we don’t often see, and the cover is the only shot Ali posed by himself.

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C O N T R I B U T O R S

JULY Some of the people who helped create this issue of Open Skies CHRIS ANDERSON

ANDREW BIRBECK

MARINA CHETNER

GARY EVANS

Chris is a freelance journalist based in London, writing for travel and men’s lifestyle magazines. This month he writes about a man lucky enough to get close to The Champ ahead of the biggest fight of his career.

Andrew is an Edinburgh-born author, writer and blogger who contributes to a broad range of titles. A regular in Open Skies, this month he writes on the Panthera project that’s dedicated to saving tigers by saving their habitat.

Marina is an Australian-born writer based in Los Angeles. A regular contributor to Open Skies, this month she not only lunched with the social entrepreneur, Michael Trainer, but also visited the vibrant LA neighbourhood of Koreatown.

Gary Evans is a freelance journalist and travel writer from Sunderland. His work has appeared in Rolling Stone, The Guardian and The Independent. This month he writes on what it feels like to simply up sticks and head out alone in search of the good life abroad.

“The loss of Muhammad Ali last month was felt by many. I was lucky enough to find out about a significant time in his life, preparing for the Rumble In The Jungle against man mountain George Foreman.”

“Tigers belong in the wild and Panthera’s work to save and re-populate their natural habitat is not only critical to this majestic creature’s survival, but also, incidentally, to our own.”

“Koreatown brings a bit of Seoul to Los Angeles. I love its frenetic downtown pace, and head over whenever I need my fix of red-bean buns and the latest in Korean beauty products.”

VINCENT LONG

MATT MOSTYN

SANDRA TINARI

STUART TURTON

Vincent is a photographer and filmmaker based in Mexico City who has wandered the world for the last 15 years. His work has appeared in Esquire UK, The New York Times and Mercedes magazine Australia. This month he photographed social entrepreneur Michael Trainer and Koreatown in LA.

Matt is a world-wandering writer based between Dubai, the UK and Australia. He freelances for a range of international magazines and ad agency creative departments. This month he writes on the selection process behind landing a coveted position on Emirates’ cabin crew.

Sandra is an Australian freelance journalist and photographer, based in Dubai, and a regular contributor to Open Skies. This month she writes on a local design store that makes a great stop-off for visitors and which also suppor ts local craftsmen.

Stuar t is a freelance journalist specialising in travel and technology. He spends a lot of time going in the wrong direction, grumbling at smar tphones and trying to remember where he left his house keys. This month he writes on San Francisco.

“Until photographing K-Town for this article, I’d never known the delights of Korean bibimbap – a beautiful mixed rice dish. I’m now a true convert.”

“We don’t usually get the chance to discover much about the person pouring that cup of tea – but it was fascinating to learn more about the process that put them there.”

“I’m increasingly trying to be a socially responsible consumer by supporting local artisans and independent design. So I was delighted to discover Jo England’s eco-chic at Tribe Dubai.”

“San Francisco sounds like a fantasy book setting. It’s built on old ships, has a floating prison and it once outlawed ugly people. I’m expecting dragons any day now.”

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“It’s everybody’s dream to just get up and leave it all behind, and on a trip to Spain I found an unexpected stop-off that turned into a place I fell in love with.”

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July 21 – 24

San Diego ComiC-Con United StateS

If there’s one thing I know it’s that ComicCon in San Diego is pretty special – and if filming permits I would love to be there later this month. I went with Mark Ruffalo in disguise to New York Comic-Con last year. We thought it would be a pretty fun idea, and it really was. The fans literally had no idea. I was getting selfies taken with people dressed up as The Joker and posting them on social media – it was a pretty cool experience. The comic world has always interested me, and I’ve always liked comic books and

comic book movies; but it’s always been the bad guys who intrigued me. It’s easy to be good, but to be bad, something has to have made you that way. That’s why I felt like a kid when I got the call to play The Joker [in Suicide Squad]. I know how special these characters are to people and especially a character as iconic as this one. I actually really relate to the guys who go to Comic-Con. This isn’t just a hobby for them, they take this seriously, they take their comics seriously, and they take their comic book movies seriously. That’s one of

the reasons why I felt so much pressure in the role. The guys on set were always saying that they hadn’t met Jared, only The Joker – but that’ the only way you can approach a role this complex: you just have to dive straight in. The guys at Comic-Con honestly have the same dedication. I’m hoping that there’ll be lots of guys dressed as The Joker in San Diego this month. He’s an icon, the baddest of the bad and a total psychopath. I mean, who wouldn’t love to play that role? comic-con.org

Emirates serves two destinations in california with two A380 flights a day to los Angeles, and a daily A380 service to san francisco.

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iMAGE: GEtty

OscAr winnEr JareD Leto ExplAins why yOu’ll find thE wOrld’s MOst dEdicAtEd cOMic bOOk fAns in sAn diEGO this MOnth – And hOw hE MiGht just bE OnE Of thEM

F L A S H B A C K

THE SPACE RACE GETS SERIOUS

IN JULY 1958, THE US MADE A DECISION THAT WOULD EVENTUALLY PUT A MAN ON THE MOON By the time President Dwight D Eisenhower signed Nasa into existence on July 29, 1958, the Space Race looked halfway lost already. The Soviet Union had launched Sputnik 1 – the world’s first ar tificial satellite – in 1957, and would send cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin into orbit four years later. In contrast, the United States was struggling to keep its satellites from exploding on the launch pad, and had somehow managed to codename its top-secret manned spaceflight programme Man In Space Soonest, or MISS. It was Nasa’s job to get some decent codenames going and beat the Soviet Union to the moon, and on May 25, 1961, President John F Kennedy gave them ten years to do it. In terms of science, this was asking someone to send a man to the moon with less technology than you find in a modern-day smar tphone. In terms of politics, it was a masterstroke. The Cold War had an entire generation believing atomic oblivion was just a sneeze away, and the Soviet Union’s evident space superiority could topple presidents. By 1969, Kennedy’s vision was complete and Nasa had put a man on the moon. OK, it had cost four per cent of the federal budget annually, and taken 34,000 Nasa employees and a fur ther 375,000 contractors, but in return we got microchips, GPS and freeze-dried foods, not to mention handheld vacuum cleaners and a very cool bit of footage. Nowadays, Nasa’s eyes are turned to Mars. Who’s going to bet against them getting there first, too? Emirates flies daily to Washington, DC, with the A380.

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ON YOUR RADAR HOW TO JOIN THE SPACE RACE Nasa has visitor centres in most of its research labs around the US, and nearly all of them seem to have a space shuttle or two lying around. Education’s a big focus, with displays that delve into the mysteries of space and the challenges of getting there. visitnasa.com

E n t r E p r E n E u r

Peter Harrington rare Books London, UK

Words: AndreW BirBeck imAges: Peter HArrington rAre Books | 24 |

E N T R E P R E N E U R

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or someone who started out wanting to be anything but a bookseller, Peter ‘Pom’ Harrington has done pretty well for himself. “After lots of summer jobs with my late father Peter – largely polishing, packaging and helping with restoration – I finally got the chance to do a bit of selling,” says Harrington. “That’s when I got a real taste for the rare book trade.” The original business, specialising in rare books and first editions, began trading on London’s King’s Road back in 1969. Times, of course, have changed and it now incorporates a gallery, bindery and dedicated e-commerce website. Embracing change and ever-developing technology has been key. “Even the fax machine was something of a revolutionary concept when it came to selling,” he explains. “We ended up sending pages and pages of descriptions to people, so you can imagine how much more the internet has affected the way we do business.” Timely and consistent investment in, and use of, e-commerce has clearly paid off and Harrington is happy to say that from the start he was firmly onboard with how technology could help his business. Alongside all this, invaluable lessons were passed down from father to son. “My father taught me to follow my instincts. He had a very good nose for finding books that would sell. When he saw something

amazing he wasn’t afraid to go for it.” Far from the staid existence that many might once have associated with the role, with rare and first editions commanding ever-higher prices, Harrington often finds himself living something of a jet-set lifestyle. “We’ve been privileged to work with customers to curate important private and personalised libraries,” he says. “The process entails hunting books out across international markets and book fairs and flying across the world at quite a pace. It’s a thrilling part of the job.” There’s no doubt, too, that the right book is a sound investment. Annual returns now knock on the door of 10 per cent with the most desirable achieving breathtaking sums. “There seems to be a real desire for trophy assets and rare books are no different. Items at the top end of the market really do leap in price with the distinction between good, great and astonishing. For example, in 2013 a regular copy of the first edition of Isaac Newton’s Principia Mathmatica (1687) made a little over US$550,000 at auction. In the same year a copy specially bound for King James II fetched over US$2.5 million – five times the price. Last year we sold a particularly impressive Churchill collection, priced at US$720,000, with books inscribed to the likes of Chamberlain, George and Burgess.” With more than 20 years in the business, there has to be an ultimate find,

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE For literary London I’d recommend a visit to… The British Library, which is also my favourite library. The ultimate London book in my opinion is… Baedeker’s London And Its Environs is a brilliant old guide to the city – if you can find an early edition you can see the changes in London. To find a little peace and solitude in the city I’d recommend… Battersea Park – underrated, and a great place to take a breath and find perspective. The best advice I can give is… Find something that you want to do and throw yourself into it. a totally unexpected standout discovery. “Incredibly, an employee of the shop found a first edition of Frankenstein, inscribed by the author Mary Shelley to Lord Byron. That was utterly astonishing.” Similarly, there must be a book in Harrington’s private collection that’s simply far too precious to let go. “I’m a collector of Roald Dahl, specifically inscribed firsts,” he says. “My first ever one, Henry Sugar, was a present from my father. It’s something I’ll never sell.” As with collectibles of any kind it’s all about taking that initial step. On that note, Harrington has some great advice. “It’s simple really. Buy what you love. People who buy purely for investment tend to buy wrong. The special things usually tend to have the best returns over time. So, always buy the best copy you can afford, and keep it safe.” Undeniably ranking amongst the world’s premier antiquarian booksellers, a visit is a treat that no booklover should miss. “We have the largest selection of rare books in the world to browse on open shelves,” Harrington says. And, as any bibliophile knows, it’s all about browsing until one day you happen upon that one remarkable find. peterharrington.co.uk

If you’re after a good book on today’s flight, check out the Audiobooks collection on ice. Highlights this month include Bill Bryson’s The Road To Little Dribbling, Lee Child’s Make Me and Shopaholic To The Rescue by Sophie Kinsella.

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Michael Trainer It’s hard not to feel a little inferior in the company of a man dedicated to raising awareness of dementia with a sideline in ending global poverty, but then the Peak Mind founder is not your average entrepreneur WORDS: MaRina ChetneR iMageS: VinCent LOng

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ichael Trainer first met the Dalai Lama at a party he was hosting for His Holiness’ 80th birthday. “I don’t even know how to describe him,” he starts. “He’s got this jovial, light presence. I was overcome. My mom – she’s a strong woman who doesn’t get easily affected – cried like a baby. We both did.” His father’s reaction was slightly different. “The Dalai Lama took my dad’s hand and blessed him. At the end of the event I said, ‘Dad, how did you feel meeting the Dalai Lama?’ And he goes, ‘I think he wanted something from me.’” Rewind two hours; we’re at Café Gratitude in Venice Beach on a sunny April Monday. Trainer is still wearing the knit cardigan

from this morning’s photo shoot. He’s personable, open and – as I will soon find out – a keen storyteller. It comes as a relief that he has no qualms about the organic plant-based self-affirming menu given it was my suggestion to meet here for lunch. Seated on the patio, we declare our affirmations – an ‘I Am… Dazzling’ Caesar salad with added ‘coconut bacon’ for me, and an ‘I Am… Mucho’ bowl of quinoa, guacamole and black beans for him – before getting started. Trainer’s switched on. Engaged. His eye contact unwavering as he offers an overview of Peak Mind, the social action platform he created in honour of his father, who was diagnosed with dementia in 2014.

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“Understanding dementia is quite a new frontier,” he explains. “It’s now being considered Type 3 diabetes.” (The brain disease is characterised by the loss of memory and overall thinking skills). Wading through research, Trainer discovered that developing healthy habits – decreasing inflammation, curbing sugar and avoiding genetically modified foods – has a profound effect on preventing cognitive decline. He cites a Harvard study that shows the positive benefits of meditation on the brain’s memory regions. And yet, he says, the incidence of this neurological disorder is expected to increase exponentially over the next several years. “Peak Mind is relevant to our generation because it onsets 30 years prior to your first symptoms and diagnosis. With diet and lifestyle, there’s a lot you can do to ensure your overall health.” Through educational tools, inspirational content and experiences – both online and offline – his aim is to help others function at their potential. “The ways in which we cultivate the best versions of ourselves is hugely important to the type of social change I’d like to see. Meditation, nutrition and forging community are a huge part of that.” Trainer’s LinkedIn profile reveals nearly 20 years of experience in social relations. “I’ve always been interested in our shared humanity,” he reveals. Growing up in Chicago, he was raised by Swedish parents, attended a school surrounded by children of different cultures, and spent two semesters of his junior year in Sri Lanka, where he learned the Sinhala language and Vipassana meditation. He also studied with a seventh generation Ayurvedic healer, who specialised in Bhuta Vidya (psychiatry during the Vedic period) and welcomed Trainer into the tradition as his own. “The rituals we studied were about forging and maintaining a sense of community,” he says. “If one became unbalanced, or psychologically ill, a narrative of dancing, talking and elaborate masked dramas were performed to bring you back into balance and seen as a

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valuable part of the collective whole. There are many benefits to individuality but I think a lot of the problems we face today are a result of our loneliness and lack of connection to the community.” Trainer returned to Sri Lanka on an Earth Institute grant to document the stories of those displaced by the civil war. “In that time, there were more disappearances per capita in Sri Lanka than during the Iraq War. Journalists would just disappear. I realised the power of story but ultimately had to put the kibosh on the film because I didn’t want to compromise the safety of the people I’d interviewed.” He then joined the board of Sarvodaya, a Sri Lankan grassroots development movement that helps villages with basic needs projects and infrastructure, where he again witnessed the power of collective identity reinforced through shared actions. “That ignited my interest in international development and how we can be a catalyst with inspiration, information and action that allows others to empower themselves.” Further travels took Trainer to Cambodia where he donated time at a landmine abatement organisation. In Kenya, he volunteered alongside Nobel Peace Prize winner Wangari Maathai of the Green Belt Movement, and after the earthquake hit Haiti, he travelled with Project Medishare to assist at a hospital. Trainer also co-founded Reckoning, a studio that built compelling visual narratives around social change organisations such as Charity Water, Pencils Of Promise, and Acumen Fund. In 2011, he met Hugh Evans, CEO of the Global Poverty Project, and ultimately joined as the organisation’s inaugural national director, tasked with putting the issues of extreme poverty on the map. “The whole idea was to tell a story that, instead of being driven by guilt and shame, would empower people to be part of the greatest success story of our generation. How do we build that? It was living in that question that we decided to launch a digital platform and

HOW DO WE TAKE THE THOUGHT LEADERS, WHO MILLIONS LOOK UP TO, AND COMPOUND THAT INFLUENCE SO IT’S OF SERVICE TO SOCIETY?

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concert: Global Citizen and the Global Citizen Festival.” The policyoriented music event was scheduled to run during New York’s UN General Assembly. Driven by the actions of everyday citizens, it would call upon the world’s politicians to make multi-million dollar commitments for programmes serving the world’s poor. I mention to Trainer that I’d recently seen Hugh Evans and actor Hugh Jackman on The Late Show With Stephen Colbert. “One of the big lessons from Global Citizen was learning that big vision attracts incredible people,” says Trainer. “Hugh Jackman was an early supporter of ours – he would host dinners at his house to help rally support.” (Incidentally, Colbert co-hosted the Global Citizen Festival in 2015, and wielded his social media influence to call upon the prime minister of Norway about improving girls’ education globally. Overwhelmed by the tweets, she committed US$500 million over five years to the cause). For the festival, Michael and his team pioneered a unique ticketing strategy based on gamification, meaning potential festivalgoers had to engage with educational videos and petitions to collect points. Those who qualified were entered into a lottery, from which about 70,000 people were chosen. “The whole point of driving people online to attain points and take actions on issues was to develop a critical mass, and you can leverage that for true social impact. You can go to almost any politician with six million people constituents, concerned global citizens and activists, and they’re going to take a meeting.” It proved successful. The first festival headlined The Foo Fighters, The Black Keys and Neil Young, and in turn drew US$1.3 billion in new commitments. Four years on, and the Central Park-based event has attracted Beyoncé, Jay Z, Stevie Wonder and Coldplay’s Chris Martin, who took over the role of creative director in 2015. Trainer received news of his father’s diagnosis just prior to the third Global Citizen Festival. Several months later, after moving to Los Angeles (he also has a place in New York), they travelled together to South Africa. “He loves nature and history… I just wanted him to have the trip of his life.” Upon their return, Trainer would leave Global Citizen to spend more time with his father. As for next steps, he wasn’t sure. “A friend of mine recommended that I take a 30-day meditation challenge to get super clear. During

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that time, I did a deep dive into research and thought of how I could support my dad with his brain health in terms of dementia.” He ended the 30th day with a plunge into the Pacific. It was November, the water was freezing, but Trainer says he emerged renewed and set on the ambitious goal of hosting a party for the Dalai Lama’s 80th birthday. The event, centred around the transformative powers of meditation, would also launch Peak Mind. “Really to me, the Peak Mind vision is: how do we take these thought leaders that people look up to, who have built these constituencies and these multi-million person followings, and how do we compound that influence in a way that is of service both to the individual and to society?” says Michael. “How do we create educational resources for people to be the best versions of themselves and how do we create enough of those individuals to create a mass of social good?” His five-point plan includes a potential partnership with a national web-based market purveyor of healthy food (still under negotiation as this article goes to press), an upcoming podcast with the “peak minds of our time”, and an LA-based symposium. There’s also a TEDx project in 2016, on the back of which he will launch Peak 7, a weeklong digital meditation-nutritionempowerment challenge. His goal is to sign up one million people and raise funds for dementia research and treatment. With access to the networks of individuals and organisations he has worked with previously, like Deepak Chopra’s The Chopra Center, these figures seem attainable. The conversation leads to the aforementioned birthday celebration. “One of the cool things the Dalai Lama spoke about was the consequence of touching one person’s life, and how that one person would touch 10 more lives, and that would ripple out, and the consequences it creates.” Trainer spent six long months coordinating the event, which only became a reality when the Dalai Lama arrived. “I wanted to make my dad proud – it’s a lot of what motivates me – and the irony was that on that day it didn’t matter.” Rather, it was Michael’s father who’d demonstrated to Michael the most profound lesson of all in that: “It’s not what you do that matters, it’s who you are.” peakmind.org

The Bill 1 Dazzling (US$14) 1 Mucho (US$15) 1 Cool Mint Chip Milkshake (US$9) 1 Awake Stumptown Espresso Shot (Americano) (US$3) 1 Courageous Arabica Bean Coffee (US$3) 1 Light Caffe Latte (US$5)

Total: US$49

In 2008 Emirates launched its non-stop service from Dubai to Los Angeles with a Boeing 777-200LR aircraft. As demand grew, in 2013 Emirates began flying the A380 aircraft to serve LA travellers. Now, starting July 1, Emirates will bring a second daily A380 service to Los Angeles.

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R o o m

st regis florence i t a ly

Words: AndreW nAgy ImAges: stArWood hotels It takes a pretty special hotel to make you opt for an afternoon indoors over exploring a city as beautiful as Florence, but we have to admit that we kept the place waiting in favour of the impossibly comfortable beds of the St Regis. Found in the historic heart of the city, even the hotel lobby is the sort of place

you’d like to hang around for a while, filled with antique globes, stunning paintings and a team that is always on hand to help. The 19 suites are decorated in the Medicci, Fiorentino and Renaissance styles and boast stunning artworks that combine with the more contemporary touches. If you’re in a suite you’ll have a butler –

Emirates serves four destinations in Italy – Rome, Bologna, Milan and Venice.

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perfect for when you fancy a cappuccino but can’t bring yourself to head to breakfast. If you eventually get stir crazy, head to the Winter Garden restaurant for some Michelin-starred fare, and be sure to end the day with a stroll into town, just in time for an aperativo with the locals. stregisflorence.com

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C l a S S i C

Baur au Lac Zurich, SwitZerland

Words: andreW nagy Images: baur au lac There’s something undeniably very special about Zurich’s Baur au Lac. You feel it when you wander up to the mightily impressive façade, and in through its grand hallway. Perhaps it’s simply the 170 years of history, or maybe the royals that have slept under its roof, or the fact that the idea for the Nobel

Peace Prize was dreamed up right here. But you soon realise that it’s not simply the glittering backstory, it’s the view of Lake Zurich and the Alps from your suite – recently revamped by interior designer Frederic d’Haufayt; it’s a meal in fine dining restaurant, Pavillon – arguably one of the finest in the city; and it’s the

Emirates flies twice daily to Zurich, with both flights operated by the A380.

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level of care and attention that can often be dismissed by its more contemporary peers as old-fashioned and stuffy. Make no mistake, Baur au Lac venerates tradition, and any stay here will leave you in no doubt of how it feels to stay at one of the world’s finest hotels. bauraulac.ch

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C o n t e m p o r a r y

Mayfair AdelAide, AustrAliA

Words: sarah Freeman Images: mayFaIr hotel Housed in Adelaide’s heritage-listed former Colonial Mutual Life Building, Mayfair has shaken up the city’s lacklustre luxe hotel scene within just one year of opening. Blending contemporary flair with retro charm, its 170 light and airy rooms are spread over 11 floors, and boast custommade beds, cut-crystal lamps, and locally crafted marble-topped bedside tables

– all bathed in a sophisticated palette of ‘Mayfair’ blue, taupe and grey. Head up to the hotel’s 13th floor Hennessy Lounge and sip on their signature honey-trap cocktails from the comfort of an atelier Versace chair, or drink alfresco on the rooftop champagne terrace, set amongst the gargoyles and soaking up panoramic views of the city.

Back on street level, the original art deco ribbon staircase descends to the Mayflower restaurant, helmed by Bethany Finn, which is worth a visit for the vintage dessert trolley alone. Stepping out for dinner is also an option – nearby Peel and Leigh Streets are brimming with speakeasystyle pop-up bars and trendy eateries. mayfairhotel.com.au

In 2012 Emirates began flights to Adelaide with a four times weekly service. Today it’s a daily service operated by the Boeing 777-300ER.

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Ramada Resort Bodrum, Turkey

Make a rewarding decision this summer Become a Wyndham Rewards member and save up to 25% off by booking directly with your favourite hotel brands worldwide Join now at WyndhamRewards.com/summer2016

terms and conditions available at wyndhamrewards.com/summer2016

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

Koreatown, Los angeLes WORDS: MaRina ChetneR iMageS: VinCent LOng

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

F

or California Seoul, head to Koreatown, where Art Deco buildings, palm trees, and low-rise strip malls line a grid of streets roughly one-third the size of Santa Monica. In place of sunny awnings, signs in Korean – sometimes with English translations – mark the fronts of bakeries, beauty salons, bubble tea shops, clothing boutiques and Korean BBQ restaurants. There’s a significant Latino culinary influence here as well, which extends from the traditional taqueria to the Korean taco truck. Formed in the 1970s and ’80s by Asian immigrants, Koreatown is not only home to the largest Korean population in the US today, but also LA’s most buzzed-about openings.The recent influx of chef-driven restaurants, boutique hotels and (hidden) nightspots has drawn a new wave of visitors. Moreover, a central location, between downtown LA and Hollywood, makes it easy to reach by metro or by car. Just don’t expect to end the night with karaoke, because round-the-clock spa complexes await, inviting you to soak, scrub, and snooze until you’re ready to tackle the scene all over again.

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

eAT + STAY

pot by celebrity chef roy choi Koreatown’s popularity surged thanks to Korean American chef Roy Choi. Two years ago, he opened four dining spots – Commissary, POT, POT Lobby Bar, and POT caFe – in the LINE Hotel, situated in the hear t of Koreatown. About Choi: he’s an alum of the Culinary Institute Of America who sparked the food truck movement with Kogi BBQ nearly a decade ago. After opening several restaurants around the city, including A-Frame, Alibi Room, and Chego!, he star ted LocoL, a chain that sells affordable, healthy fast food in under-served communities. Back to the LINE: Commissary’s vegetable-inspired menu is served in a greenhouse by the hotel pool; POT caFe proffers sweet red bean buns; and POT restaurant dishes modern Korean creations like duck confit fried rice with poached egg. POT debuted on Los Angeles Times’ Top 101 Best Restaurants list in 2014. In April 2016, Choi made Time magazine’s 100 Most Influential People. 3515 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA | +213-381-7411 | eatatpot.com

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In The AreA (Hey, you’re already Here)

THe lINe HoTel

Hang out in POT CaFe, located in the lobby of this industrial-chic hotel, to feel Koreatown’s buzz. The Hollywood Hills rooms overlook a sprawling metropolis backed by the legendary sign in the hills. 3515 WilsHire Blvd, lOs Angeles, CA, 213-381-7411, THelineHOTel.COm

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

SPA + ShOP

In The AreA

Wi Spa

( S e v e n-mi nut e ca b r i de )

Modelled after South Korea’s jimjilbangs, Wi Spa is a multi-storey bathhouse replete with gender-segregated hot baths, whirlpools, showers and a series of saunas: dr y, clay, ice, jade, salt and steam. Inhibitions are best left with your shoes – at the door– before entering a world of soaking, steaming, and scrubbing. A 90-minute full-body buff and aroma massage will not only leave you squeaky clean but as limber as a noodle. Other available treatments include acupressure, deep cleansing facials and Swedish massage. Afterwards, put on your spa-issued cotton outfit and head upstairs to the co-ed communal area, where spa goers lounge, socialise and watch TV on floor mats. An adjoining cafe ser ves traditional Korean dishes such as kimchee fried rice, hot stone bibimbap and spicy tofu soup, or simply cool down with a mochi-topped shaved ice. There’s also a computer area, a children’s zone and a librar y. In true Seoul style, Wi Spa is open 24/7. 2700 Wilshire Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA | 213-487-2800 | wispausa.com

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aritaum

Buy top Korean beauty brands including Sulwhasoo, a highperformance line of skincare products infused with ginseng. 928 South WeStern Avenue, 2nd floor, #213, loS AngeleS, CA, 213-385-9062, KoreAtoWnplAzA.Com

Joy is part of the Brazilian soul. That is why it is present in the products Tramontina offers in more than 120 countries. And when we do things well, with joy and care, we do them beautifully well with family and friends.

tramontina.com

N e i g h b o u r h o o d

MIXOLOGY + KARAOKE

The Walker Inn Walk through the Normandie Hotel, past The Normandie Club, until you see a black door crowned with a little red light: this is the not-so-secret hidden entrance to The Walker Inn. Opened in spring of 2015, the bar accommodates seven people at the sleek counter and 20 in the parlour-like lounge – all of whom come here for the ar tisanal cocktails. Either choose from the classics, or opt for a themed option. Currently, ‘An Homage To Alice Waters’ – Waters is a prominent American chef and food activist who pioneered Californian cuisine – offers seasonally-inspired tipples such as Fennel From Farm To Glass, and Arugula Greens, which combines pisco, tequila, rum and lemon. Reser vations are encouraged, but you can walk in, and with any luck, chance upon some seats. That said, wait times can be over an hour. And in another twist, the bar is only open from Wednesday to Sunday. 3612 W 6th St, Los Angeles, CA | 213-263-2709 | thewalkerinnla.com

In ThE AREA ( 12-mi nut e wa lk )

Palm tree la

For K-Pop and classic Korean karaoke head to Palm Tree LA and stage your own concert in a private booth. 3240 WiLshire BLvd, Los AngeLes, 213800-2053, Lsyid.com

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N e i g h b o u r h o o d

MUSIC + SnACK

Wiltern theatre “Prince performed at The Wiltern on May 30, 1986, during the Parade Tour,” reveals Silvia Carluccio, the theatre’s assistant general manager. That one-off show, held 30 years ago, had been announced just one day prior, and sold out in minutes. Impromptu or not, big-name acts continue to be drawn to this 85-year-old performance venue. Ever since Live Nation took over operations, David Bowie, The Rolling Stones, Lady Gaga, Tony Bennett, Lana Del Rey, and Elton John have graced the stage; in Februar y 2016, tickets to Adele’s surprise show were the hottest item in town. That this Ar t Deco jewel had to be saved from demolition not once, but twice, in the 1970s is a lesser-known fact. Its stunning green façade, 12 storeys of stepped cut-outs and silver geometric patterns, commands a distinct presence from the corner of Wilshire Boulevard and Western Avenue. No prizes for guessing how the theatre got its name. 3790 Wilshire Blvd, Los Angeles, CA | 213-388-1400 | wiltern.com

Emirates flies twice daily to Los Angeles, with both flights operated by the A380.

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In The AreA ( s i x -minut e ca b r ide )

beverly soon

For more than 30 years, this restaurant has made its own tofu, mixed it with combinations of kimchi, meat, seafood, or seaweed and created a fantastic spicy soup. 2717 W Olympic Blvd #108, lOs Angeles, cA, 213-380-1113, BeverlysOOntOFu.cOm

L o c a L

TRIBE

K n o w L e d g e

Bohemian, eclectic and socially responsible, Jo England’s design studio in Dubai supports local artisans and makes your home look good in the process words and Images: sandra TInarI

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Download The Emirates App – available for iPhone, iPad and Android. Your personal journey planner makes it easy to view and arrange your trips when you’re on the go. Designed to complement the iPhone app, there’s also an Emirates App for Apple Watch.

We’re a lifestyle and design store in Dubai. Since opening in 2015, we’ve quickly gathered momentum and collaborated on many projects with designers, stylists, artists, retail spaces and cafes in and around Dubai. This September we open our second location at The Courtyard, Al Quoz, a place that is set to buzz with new shops, cafes and markets.

Expect to find a real mix. We’re a little bit bohemian, a little bit vintage, very global-chic and hugely gorgeous. It all magically hums together with a fresh, light palate of organic natural tones and textures.

Ethical trade is the core of our business principle. It must be good for the environment, for the ar tisan and for the community. Tribe represents our passion for handmade, organic and sustainable goods, and a love for sourcing products, meeting with the ar tisans and suppor ting the continuation of their skills.

Sustainability is hugely important. We want our collection to look good, feel good and know it has done some good. For example, we proudly represent the beautiful, handmade Armadillo&Co Rugs, which are certified fair trade, are made of sustainable materials and provide employment for their ‘family’ of 1,500 weavers in India, sustaining an industry of craftsmen. It also supports education and local schools in their weavers’ villages. Armadillo&Co has built six schools so far, creating a brighter future for children in these underprivileged communities.

Hidden among the maze of industrial roads is pool of talented and skilled artisans who have, collectively, been here for decades. These are the people we turn to for our custom-made upholstered and wooden bespoke furniture. | 49 |

A collection of stories from around the world

On The Road With The Champ

Winning Away

Survivor

The Other Side Of Dubai

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Winning away Does the good life abroad really exist? Our writer recently relocated to rural Spain, rented a traditional apartment, adopted a stray kitten and fell in love with Spanish football. Most locals made him feel welcome. One stubborn villager, however, was harder to win over. These are the ups and downs of a fresh start in a foreign country

Words: Gary Evans Images: Carolyn Stritch

W i n n i n g

T

he referee blows for halftime. A man sitting five rows back from the pitch slips off his boots without undoing the laces. Perched on top of his head is a pointed hat fashioned from a newspaper. He adjusts the hat with thumb and forefinger, then pulls from his trouser pocket a sizeable knife. The steel blade unfolds from the wooden handle and glints beneath the afternoon sun. “José. José. Qué tal, José?” There are roughly 1,000 supporters in the 7,000-seater Estadio Príncipe Felipe. Many of the man’s fellow home fans call him by name as they move up and down the aisles. “Buenas, José!” Knife in hand, José waves a friendly wave, then continues cutting meat and cheese into chunks, eating what he cuts directly off the blade. He washes it down with a mouthful of vino tinto, the red wine arcing into his mouth from the wineskin he holds high above his head. Some of the fans dressed in CP Cacereño green stop to chat. José talks with food in his mouth and laughs with a rasp in his throat,

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until he’s distracted by the halftime meat raffle taking place on the pitch. No winning ticket today. José feigns disappointed, crumples up his losing ticket and packs it away with what’s left of his lunch. Boots on, hat readjusted, knife in pocket, he settles in for the second half. José’s side wins, 1-0. I ended up here by chance and circumstance. For a year I’d travelled the world without a plan. I left Asia before the summer monsoon season really hit and aimed to arrive in South America for the best of the summer trekking. Spain would make a good stop-off point between the two. I’d visit some cities I’d never visited before, brush up on my very bad Spanish and go to a football match. Cáceres sits out among the plains of Extramadura, the western region of Spain bordered by Por tugal. Here I saw third-tier side CP Cacereño snatch a home win. And I saw José and friends, their knives and wineskins, and I saw the meat raffle, drawn by the owner of a local car dealership, and I saw fans shouting “Eeeeeeee” at near misses and “Gol” when the home side scored. I wanted to see more.

Summer changed to autumn, autumn to winter. I never intended to live in Spain this long

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I postponed my trip to South America and star ted looking for somewhere to live more permanently. My search took me to the south coast. I rode the bus from Málaga to Riogordo, one of Andalucia’s White Villages. The bus trundled out of the station, through the city traffic, took the motorway north, away from the sea and up into the hills. I’d rented an apartment sight unseen, in a village I’d never visited before.

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At Colmenar, the village before Riogordo, every passenger stood and got off the bus through the middle door. Most of these passengers boarded again through the front door. They each bought a second ticket, this time to Riogordo. I later learned splitting the journey this way saves the Riogordeños one euro. The bus arrived in Riogordo during siesta time, the main square still and quiet. I asked the first person I saw how to get

to Calle Pozo. This weather-beaten man not only pointed me in the direction of my new apar tment, but took me to the door. Riogordo is like that. Shops round down the price of whatever you buy. There’s always someone around to give you a ride into the city or lend you a gas cylinder when you run out. People passing in the street say hello to one another – all except the second person I saw after getting off the bus: an older lady who stared right through me and would continue to stare right through every time we crossed paths. There are more than 200 foreigners in the area, mostly living out in the countryside. The newer homes are usually built well and in keeping with the local style. Their construction provides a boost to employment and the economy. But I heard of some not so well-built places close to Riogordo, houses and villas belonging to foreigners known locally as the “Por Favoures” – because of their unwillingness to learn Spanish and integrate with the community. So I wondered if newcomers, par ticularly the British, were not welcome by all in the village. | 56 |

W i n n i n g

Soon after moving to Riogordo, I adopted the stray kitten that slept behind a recycling bin on my street. With food, water and a bed made from an old jumper, the black and white cat now sleeps on the stairs leading up to the front door of my apar tment, but is too wary to come all the way inside. I’m writing this on my roof terrace, up on the third floor of the building, with the sun above striking the whitewashed buildings below. To the right of the road that winds out of the village and off over the horizon, some goats eat their way up the hill. These black and brown specs ghost over the green grass, older goats leading the way, a dog circling to keep the herd in check. The goatherd watches over them while resting on his crook. Bells tied around the necks of the goats ring, every day, the same time. A long and jagged chain of mountains dominates the skyline, propping up the clouds with peaks that in winter months are capped by snow. Every time I look at the sierras, I get itchy feet. Some of the most spectacular routes I’ve ever trekked pass through Riogordo. These trails lead along the river and through the valleys and up into the mountains. But the walks I like best are those when I go off-trail, intentionally or accidentally. A slog to the top of a steep hill rewards you with another hill just like it, and another behind that, and another behind that. The ruins of abandoned farmhouses dare you to test their rotten beams and crumbling staircases. Everything grows out here – pomegranates, apricots, peaches, oranges – and in such numbers that they lie unpicked in the trees and squashed on the ground. There are olive trees everywhere. It’s hard to believe a big city is just 40km away.

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“Dos Moscatels, por favor.” The barman opens the tap on a barrel made of oak, the wood dark, dir ty and full of flavour from years of use. Sweet brown wine trickles from the tap into one small straight glass, and then another. The barman grunts, scrawls the price of two drinks in chalk on the counter and ambles back to his own drink. Antigua Casa de Guardia served its first glass of wine in 1840 and it appears everything is as it was all those years ago – same paintwork, same furniture, same barrels and same barman. Málaga is one of Europe’s most underrated cities. For food, shopping and par ticularly ar t galleries, it’s up there with the best. Antigua Casa de Guardia is near Soho, a district that’s become a huge outdoor gallery, with as its centrepiece a pair of towering murals by street ar tists D*Face and Shepard Fairey. I visit the tavern before home games of my new local side, Málaga CF. Tonight my girlfriend joins me in the city for a

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W i n n i n g

midweek cup game. I promise her a comfortable win against lower-league opposition. Supporters behind either goal stand with their arms around each other’s shoulders. A man beats a big drum, which echoes through the stadium. Fans sing, and jump up and down in time with the drumbeat. Many of the men take their tops off. One fan stands on a barrier at the front of the stand, facing away from the pitch and towards the crowd. He starts and directs songs, the conductor of an unruly orchestra. The players can’t match the fan’s passion. Painfully slow, scrappy, full of mistakes, devoid of creativity and ending in a 1-0 defeat, it’s the kind of game that causes you to question not only why you bother watching football, but why you bother doing anything at all. My girlfriend wants to leave from the 60-minute mark onwards and I struggle to find a reason to persuade her otherwise. In the following game, which my girlfriend didn’t attend, Málaga played Atlético Madrid – a side 15 games unbeaten, champions of Spain the year before last, and one of the better teams in Europe. Málaga played well, and won. Summer changed to autumn, autumn to winter. I never intended to live in Spain this long. I’m part of a growing number of travelling remote workers, mostly self-employed and

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often named ‘digital nomads’ (a name I loathe). I need only my laptop and a decent Wi-Fi connection to do my job. There’s much to gain from this lifestyle, but as neither a tourist nor a resident, I miss out on some things too. Sitting in the stands at a football match offers a very immediate connection to the people around me, a shared sense of purpose and a familiarity. The shouts are the same the world over and the songs all sung to the same old tunes. We are from different countries and backgrounds, but are all hardwired to find strange pleasures in boring midweek cup games. There is still no connection, immediate or otherwise, with the lady who stares through me every time we pass on the street. She lives up the road and keeps three lazy, fat cats. Saturday morning and the Churros Man parks his white van in the small but handsome main square, as he does every weekend, people queuing for his golden pastries, dusted with sugar and drizzled with melted chocolate. The village shops don’t open on Sundays so the main square is busy with shoppers. The dogs are all out, running around off their leads but obediently never entering these shops, some of which are set up in the shopkeepers’ front rooms.

With a deft slice of his knife, he cuts great chunks of cured meat straight off the leg. This is to eat while we talk, a free appetiser before I place my order

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A married couple own the butcher’s over the road from my apartment. The wife speaks slowly and clearly, repeats the names of various cuts of meat to help me learn and remember them. The husband, however, speaks quickly and loudly and anything I don’t understand he repeats quicker, louder. We get by. We find common ground in football. With a deft slice of his knife, he cuts great chunks of cured meat straight off the leg. This is to eat while we talk, a free appetiser before I place my order. If the butcher’s eating, he insists I eat, and that I continue eating until he puts away the leg. Life in the village settles into a simple routine. I work a bit and walk a lot. If I have no work to do, or have done extra work the day before, I’ll set off at first light and have coffee and breakfast up in the mountains. Locals run Spanish classes for foreigners and foreigners run English classes for locals. There’s a couple of organised get-togethers and many more unorganised ones. At weekends, there are bike rides along Málaga’s coast to eat seafood in the fishing villages, or games at Estadio La Rosaleda. An older man, slightly hunched, arms behind his back, one hand gripped around the opposite wrist, walks alone outside La Rosaleda. Dusk now. The last of the sun stretches his shadow across the pavement. The man wears no expression, pays no attention to the stallholders selling scarfs and replica kits, soft drinks and confectionar y. On he walks, head down, until lost in a crowd of fellow fans all dressed in the blue and white of Málaga CF. Inside the ground, the same man sits 10 seats or so to my right and a few rows in front. Fans sitting around him stand to shout and gesticulate towards the pitch and then look to the man for approval or agreement. The older man makes his Emirates serves two destinations in Spain – Madrid and Barcelona.

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points quietly, thoughtfully, unfolding an arm and using a hand to trace players’ movements on the pitch. Throughout the game, my eye is drawn to this man. I imagine he has sat in that same seat for years, longer than most of the people around him have been alive, season after season of hope and despair and hope again. Perhaps after a particularly big letdown, the man swore he’d never return, that he couldn’t watch another derby defeat or relegation battle or transfer window in which all his favourite players are sold and not replaced. Then August comes and he’s back: new season, same seat, hopeful as ever. In La Rosaleda he is someone else. For 90 minutes, every other week, he sits in that seat, his seat, and regardless of what happens to Málaga CF on or off the pitch, he becomes a greater thing. Because there exists in football something the billionaire businessmen can never buy, sell or franchise, and will never understand. Go anywhere in the world where people pay to watch the team they love and you’ll sense it, feel it, see it. Look into the eyes of the man who sits in the Tribune stand at Estadio La Rosaleda and you will see it there too, whatever it is. This man is bound to his team by a lifetime of victories and defeats, and rightfully proud of his chains. We travel to see the new, but the familiar is just as impor tant. We see that, despite differences in food, culture and traditions, people generally share the same traits, vir tues and aspirations. They’re found in the football stadium, as they are on the street. One day, not long ago, I stood outside on the street tr ying to coax the stray kitten into my apar tment. The lady who always stares right through me approached. I offered a greeting in Spanish, as I always do, and on this day, a cool, sunny, winter’s day, she slitted her eyes, thought for a while and finally gurgled a ver y quiet: “Hola.”

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In 1974, MuhaMMad alI was about to face a hulkIng george foreMan In the ruMble In the Jungle – the bIggest test of hIs career to date. thIs Is what Is was lIke to be part of hIs entourage... t was around 4.30am when the knock came at the door of my hotel room. As I slowly came to, I heard a voice: ‘Grab your pants and your camera, the champ is running.’ ” It was early on Saturday, August 24, 1974, and Peter Angelo Simon, a young freelance photographer, had not expected his weekend assignment to begin so soon. Bleary-eyed,

he made his way down to the hotel lobby and into the waiting car. A short drive out of town to the Pennsylvania countryside and he spotted the lone figure of Muhammad Ali, jogging along the road past fields and trees, his back to the approaching vehicle and his breath lingering in the morning air. “This was the five-mile run he would do every day before breakfast,” Simon recalls.

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“I leant out of the window and took my first photo of him, literally as the sun was coming up with this huge blast of light. The car crawled behind him, and I was in and out, snapping away. When we got to the end he started warming down and whipping out punches.” Simon had been commissioned by New Times magazine to spend two days with Ali at his Deer Lake training camp, a five-acre site near Orwigsburg, Pennsylvania, where the boxing legend was based for most of the 1970s. By 1974, the 32-year-old former heavyweight champion was four years into his comeback, after his objection to the Vietnam War and refusal to be drafted had seen him stripped of both his title and his boxing licence in 1967. After numerous appeals, he was now able to fight again, but it had meant three years away from the ring, and many believed that Ali’s best days were behind him.Victory over longtime rival Joe Frazier had come early in 1974, but the biggest test was weeks away – taking on the current champ, the brutal and undefeated George Foreman, for a clash in Zaire dubbed ‘The Rumble In The Jungle’. “Foreman had these wrecking ball arms, he was so strong, and he would knock out most of his opponents in the first round,” Simon adds. “People thought, at best, that Ali

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would be beaten, and at worst… well, we just didn’t want to imagine.” If there was any cause for concern, it wasn’t evident at Deer Lake. Ali himself appeared in good spirits, being the vocal, confident showman he was known as. He enjoyed having people around him, with members of his family present, including his

PeoPle thought, at best, that ali would be beaten, and at worst… well, we just didn’t want to imagine

mother, wife and children – his aunt ran the kitchen, and his father, Cassius Clay Sr, who was a sign painter, among other professions, would paint the names of boxing greats on boulders all over the site [“So Ali could be in the presence of other historic fighters,” says Simon]. While Deer Lake had the expected living quarters, a gym and a ring for sparring, it also had areas where Ali could receive guests, sit in his rocking chair and discuss poetry, all contained within the purpose-built log cabins. Simon quickly understood the nickname that Ali had given Deer Lake. “He called it Fighter’s Heaven,” he says, which is the name chosen for his new book collecting many of the photos shot over the weekend – certain images are also on display at the exhibition, I Am The Greatest, being held at the O2 in London until August 31. “Deer Lake had everything he needed for his physical, | 72 |

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emotional and spiritual preparation,” said Simon. “Every person there had a specific role that would help Ali do what he needed to. Some people weren’t sure what their role was, but Ali... he knew.” The continued preparations included early-morning runs, gruelling workouts and sparring sessions, but also a few surprises, such as Ali visiting a care home for the elderly and hosting an exhibition match at a local high school. “He was always the centre of attention and it had become part of his routine, which was fascinating,” says Simon. “I remember at the care home, he walked up to an old lady in her wheelchair and said, ‘I’m looking for trouble,’ and I have a shot of her with her dukes up and a huge grin on her face. Then in the high school, I have a photo of him walking in; all eyes are on him and he’s the focus of this incredible adoration.” Caught in the moment, Simon admits to shooting 33 rolls of film over the course of the two days, with Ali commenting that nobody had ever taken so many pictures of him. The only shot he didn’t take, in fact, was one with Ali himself, but he did witness Ali practising something that would prove vital in his battle with Foreman. “I got to see him trying the rope-a-dope technique with his sparring partner,” Simon reveals. “He would lean back on the ropes and absorb his opponent’s punches, so that he couldn’t be hurt.”

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Ultimately, it was this strategy that decided the outcome of the fight. Ali used the ropes from the second round onwards as Foreman tired himself out by throwing one blow after another, with none taking immediate effect. As Foreman said in 2011, “I thought he was just one more knockout victim until, about the seventh round, I hit him hard to the jaw and he held me and whispered in my ear, ‘That all you got, George?’ I realised this ain’t what I thought it was.” Ali came off the ropes in the eighth round, a clearly exhausted Foreman standing before him, and landed a devastating fivepunch combination that sent the champion tumbling to the canvas. Foreman got to his feet, but the referee stopped the fight. Ali had regained the heavyweight title, a decade after he first claimed it from Sonny Liston, Ali would continue to defend the title for the next four years – losing to and then regaining it from Leon Spinks, making him the only boxer in history to win the accolade three times. He finally retired in 1981, but it’s the fight with Foreman, when so many doubted he could win, that arguably remains his most memorable. “He believed in himself so much that I don’t think he ever felt he could lose,” Simon concludes. “In one of my photos, he’s running along the roadside with his arms up in the air – the sign of victory. If no-one else had been around, would he still have made

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that gesture? I have absolutely no doubt that he would. That idea of being ‘The Greatest’ was inherent in his personality. He believed that he was here to do something special, and lucky for us he did.” Muhammad Ali: Fighter’s Heaven 1974 runs until May 28 at Serena Morton II gallery in London serenamorton.com I Am The Greatest: Muhammad Ali runs until August 31 at the O2 in London aliattheo2.com Muhammad Ali: Fighter’s Heaven 1974 is published by Reel Art Press out now, US$57 reelartpress.com

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Ali wAlked up to An old lAdy At A cAre home And sAid, ‘i’m looking for trouble.’ i hAve A shot of her with her dukes up And A huge grin

The Academy Award-winning documentary When We Were Kings is showing in Sport Documentaries on ice Digital Widescreen channel 1213. The film discusses the 1974 “Rumble in the Jungle” heavyweight championship.

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At the Panthera Global Wild Cat Conservation, saving tigers isn’t the only remit; by preserving their habitat they might just save the environment, too

Words: Andrew Birbeck

G

o back a century and the tiger population was estimated at around 100,000. Now, less than 4,000 roam free in the wild. Juxtapose that statistic with the human population having sky-rocketed from one billion to seven billion during the same period and it’s not hard to find a direct correlation. Loss of habitat, poaching, illegal trafficking, tiger farms and the use of tiger products, particularly in Asian medicine, have all led to these iconic creatures fast becoming extinct in their natural environment. Meanwhile, in the US alone tigers in captivity far exceed those remaining in the wild globally. Something has gone dreadfully wrong and somehow we must try to fix it. Dr John Goodrich, senior tiger programme director of Panthera, is at the forefront of the fight. Panthera is a global wild cat conservation organisation and was founded a decade ago. As Goodrich explains, it offers “a different approach to conservation. Namely that of prioritising wild cats as a means of securing the vast landscapes they journey through”. It’s a remit that makes perfect sense. By preserving their natural habitats, tigers, and the vast ecosystems essential to the well-being of the planet, can be safeguarded. “Back in 2006, Panthera stepped up to the plate,” explains Goodrich. “Today we’re the only organisation devoted solely to conserving the world’s 38 wild cat species and their habitats. Our core programme focuses on the largest and most imperiled – cheetahs, jaguars, leopards, lions, pumas, snow leopards and, of course, tigers.” Having devoted much of his life to tiger conservation Goodrich is a man steeped in the cause. From 1995 to 2008 he lived and worked in Russia for the WCS (Wildlife Conservation Society).There he ran the Siberian Tiger Project, the world’s longest running tiger radiotracking project. “That amount of time in the field gave me an intimate and detailed knowledge of the ecology and behavior of the tiger,” Goodrich explains. “Perhaps one that few others have.” His time in Russia was tough, challenging and often heartbreaking work. “Nearly everywhere I looked tiger populations were plummeting. Of roughly 50 tigers we radio-collared in Russia most were killed by poachers’ bullets.” Four years were then spent as a WCS regional tiger advisor, until 2012 when the opportunity arose to direct Panthera’s Tiger Programme, together with director Joseph Smith. “I jumped at it.” With peerless experience of the issues facing tigers in the wild, Goodrich was uniquely placed to play a key role in identifying the root causes of the freefall affecting its population. “That there are roughly one million square kilometres of vacant tiger habitat in the world is perhaps the greatest testament to the severity of the poaching problem,” he says. “The forests are there, but have been decimated of tigers and their prey.” Goodrich is convinced that a combination of “direct poaching of tigers and poaching or over-hunting of their prey is the greatest threat there is”. Other threats exist too, of course, the insatiable demand for palm oil, used widely in the manufacture of vegetable oil for cooking, has led to massive deforestation of the tiger’s natural habitat as well as that of many other critically endangered species.To put this in context, according to the WWF (World Wildlife Fund), an area the equivalent size of 300 football fields of rainforest is cleared every hour to make way for palm oil production. Alongside this, Goodrich says, “there is intense competition for space.Tigers live in some of the most densely populated places on the planet”.

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Big five

Panthera wild cat initiatives around the world

The problems facing the few remaining wild tigers are multifaceted and onerous to say the least.Vested interests, ingrained culture, an ever-increasing human population, agriculture on an industrial scale in previously undeveloped areas, a history of human and tiger conflict and demand for so-called tiger products would appear to be a recipe for disaster.Yet, despite all this, hope remains. Goodrich clarifies the nature of the problem, especially when it comes to the use of, and demand for, tiger products, particularly in traditional Chinese medicine. “Social change will only happen slowly, yet tigers are rapidly disappearing. This is why Panthera’s Tiger programme focuses on the supply part of the equation. We must protect the few remaining tigers left in the wild, otherwise all will be lost before necessary changes take place.” This is where a combination of highly trained law enforcement specialists come into play, along

with state-of-the-art anti-poaching and tracking gear. “Elite ranger teams equipped with cutting-edge technologies are key to catching the poachers before they get a chance to kill. It comes down to developing intelligence networks and information gathering critical to taking down local poachers and traders.” One such vaunted piece of kit is PoacherCam. “Essentially it’s a camera with an infrared sensor that takes a picture when it detects heat or movement,” says Goodrich. “Pictures are then transmitted by a GSM (Global System For Mobile Communication) network, so if an image of a person carrying a gun in a protected area appears it’s immediately sent to the mobile phone of a Rapid Response Team leader.The technology distinguishes between humans and other animals. Only pictures of people are sent via the network. Photos of animals are saved to be studied by scientists.” All this means that a threat is immediately identified and can be dealt with swiftly. In the fight to save the tiger every second counts. Panthera is working towards increasing tiger numbers by 50 per cent in specific sites across the globe within 10 years of

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Project Leonardo

Covering the entirety of the lion’s range in Africa, the programme’s goal is to restore lion numbers to at least 30,000 in the next 15 years. The creation and maintenance of safe corridors for lions to roam is key.

PantanaL jaguar Project

During a six-year period from 2006, the jaguar population in Brazil’s Pantanal doubled. Central to the initiative is the management of human-jaguar conflict and education of local communities.

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By protecting tigers, we also protect all species that depend on that same environment a given site’s inception into the programme. With this aim in mind, a detailed document outlining how the organisation believes this goal can be achieved, called the Tigers Forever Protocol, was developed. Described as “a roadmap for conservation success”, key sites include Bangladesh, Indonesia, India,Thailand, Malaysia and Nepal. In 2011

Panthera and the Save The Tiger Fund joined forces under the Tigers Forever umbrella. “Conceptually it’s simple,” explains Goodrich. “Focus on the best tiger sites in the world. Identify the critical threats to tigers at those sites, all the while keeping close track of the animals to demonstrate success.There must also be connectivity between the sites for critical genetic exchange. Of course, in practice it can be incredibly complex. But we know we can save tigers if we maintain a razor-sharp focus on both the site and critical threat.Today we can say that tiger numbers have increased at several locations.” All this has to be achieved while a range of parties vie for priority. Local communities must be taken into account, other NGOs are involved, and both national and local governments have their set of issues. Clearly it’s a complicated task, but the bigger picture is allimportant. “Until the tiger population at a given site is recovered, our very limited resources must be focused on the critical direct threats,” says Goodrich. “Lest we lose the war for fighting too many battles. “Tigers are one of the most magnificent and iconic animals on the planet.They are worshipped by many, appear on flags, money, and even brands. Symbols of power, grace and beauty, they’re one of the world’s greatest treasures.To lose that, and at our own hand, would be one of the most profound tragedies to befall mankind.” And if all of that isn’t enough to convince you of the importance of Goodrich’s battle to save big cats, some context: “Practically speaking, healthy viable tiger populations need large intact forest ecosystems. By protecting tigers, we also protect all species that depend on that same environment. Those very forest ecosystems are critical to sequestering carbon from the atmosphere, thereby slowing climate change.They produce the oxygen we breathe, and retain water. Oxygen and water are critical to our survival. By protecting tigers, we protect ourselves.” panthera.org

Turn to page 100 to learn more about how Emirates is supporting United For Wildlife, an organisation that fights against poaching and the illegal wildlife trade.

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Snow Leopard programme

The first known photograph of a snow leopard appeared as late as the 1970s. In seven countries across Asia, cutting-edge techniques and technology are being used to understand and protect these elusive creatures.

project parduS

Focusing on rebuilding and sustaining leopard populations, the project partners with governments, NGOs and local communities to tackle illegal poaching and the illicit fur trade.

cheetah programme

Landscape-scale conservation in order to ensure the survival of Africa’s most threatened big cat. The initiative aims to expand across Africa and cover the small remaining population of Asiatic cheetahs in Iran.

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Words: Charlie Carver Images: Jalal Abuthina

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To The ouTside world, dubai is glamour incarnaTe; a ciTy where fasT cars and high-rise living come as sTandard. buT beneaTh The gold veneer lies real life, and This is The subjecT of The books of phoTographer jalal abuThina My dad is Libyan and my mother is Irish. We moved to Dubai in 1993. I went to high school here for a couple of years, before going to boarding school in Australia. Then I went to university in Montreal, Canada, where I studied international business. I took up photography in my last year, just as a hobby. I returned to Dubai in 2003-2004 and got into real estate, which was buzzing at the time, and I was doing that up until 2008. During that whole period I was taking photographs. Eventually, when the downturn came in 2008, I stopped working in real estate and started my own small photography company. That’s what I’m still doing today. I’m not from Dubai, but like a lot of other third and fourth culture kids, I consider it my home. My immediate family – my mum, my dad and my brother – live in Ras Al Khaimah. A lot of my close friends are in Dubai. I have an emotional attachment to the city. A combination of things inspired me to start the Inside Dubai project. I had friends visit me here, and they would ask me, “Can you recommend any photography books that you feel represent the city well?” I couldn’t. I worked as a private tour guide for about two years after I quit real estate, dealing with VIPs and academics who were visiting the city, giving them tours of Old Dubai and other places not included on the normal commercial tours. I was taking them to the subdistricts of Deira, Bur Dubai and Karama, showing them what everyday life is like for most people who live in the city. The tour was called Dubai: Behind The Scenes. I’d get asked by my clients if there were any photography

books focused on the parts of the city I had been showing them. The answer would always be no. So I thought, OK, I have a lot of images of the older parts of the city that I have accumulated over the past 10 years, and there aren’t any photography books about these parts of the city available, so why not do something about it? If you take a look at the books that are available, most of them are focused on tourist attractions or architecture. There’s no visual representation of everyday life. You have the historical photographic accounts by Noor Ali Rashid and Ramesh Shukla, who took images during the city’s formative years and then during the [creation of the] federation and following the [creation of the] federation for a couple of years. Their images are considered, more or less, the official visual history of the city. But that’s history; there’s nothing about the current state of society in Dubai. The Dubai we see in the international media focuses on the more privileged sector of society. Most people in the city don’t live in that reality. [Life in Deira, Bur Dubai, Karama and Satwa] is a side of the city we should be very, very proud of. It has its own charm and its own beauty, which isn’t really being communicated to the outside world. Some people do come to Dubai just for the shopping and the big tourist attractions. It’s like every city, it has its layers, but there are a lot of curious tourists looking for an insight into what’s really going on. These parts of the city have their own frequency. That’s always been very alluring as a resident and as a photographer. For example, in Deira, | 86 |

you can be walking the streets around Al Nasr Square and it’s probably one of the few places in the world where you will see a Nigerian, a Moroccan, a Kazakh, an Emirati – all of these different nationalities – in their home country’s attire, speaking their own language. They’re occupying the same space, and it’s completely normal. Nobody is looking at anybody else in a funny way; it’s just a part of the cultural ecosystem. There’s an energy that exists in these places that nobody knows about unless they have visited. I have made an effort to communicate that energy. Bur Dubai and Karama are not as chaotic as Deira – they are more settled – but a large segment of the local population lives in these areas. They are very prominent, relevant, historic neighbourhoods, but they don’t really make the highlight reel. Karama, right now, is going through gentrification – it’s changing. I didn’t really feel anybody had captured it, or any of these areas, in the state they have been in for that past 40 or 50 years. Satwa is not as old as Deira, but it has an authenticity to it. It has an Old Dubai vibe, and an element of originality. It feels like it’s been lived in. It has its own charm. I live in The Greens, a newer area of Dubai, and these places are a completely different experience, walking around it feels like you’re in a different city. Satwa is on the cusp, geographically, of the old and the new. I have a strong emotional attachment to it. Like Deira, Bur Dubai and Karama, Satwa is an original part of the city, from before it went into hyper mode. These parts of the city should be preserved in some way.

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About the PhotogrAPher

Jalal abuthina Jalal Abuthina has produced a series of street photography books exploring the areas of Dubai tourists don’t see. The Inside Dubai collection currently includes: Dubai: Behind The Scenes, a record of everyday life in Deira, Bur Dubai and Karama – known as ‘Old Dubai’; Memories Of Satwa, a paean to a neighbourhood beloved of the city’s long-time residents; and The Best Of Dubai Shop Names, a selection of odd and amusing signage. insidedubai.ae

A convenient way to visit Dubai’s top attractions is with City Sightseeing’s hop-on hop-off bus. Learn more at citysightseeing-dubai.com

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Essential news and information from Emirates Watch live sport onboard Emirates

Inside Emirates

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BRIEFING

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gREAT dEAlS wITH 'My EMIRATES PASS'

Passengers can now enjoy exceptional discounts and exclusive offers across Dubai with ‘My Emirates Pass’. Launched jointly with the Depar tment Of Economic Development, passengers flying with Emirates to or through Dubai between June 1 and August 31, 2016, can take

advantage of a range of offers at some of Dubai's best known hotspots by simply showing their boarding pass* and a valid form of identification. The Pass provides special discounts and offers at more than 65 restaurants and hotel dining outlets, as well as 10 leisure experiences that include deser t

safaris, golf course packages, helicopter tours and spa experiences. Mohammad Ali Rashed Lootah, Executive Director Commercial Compliance and the Consumer Protection Sector, said the initiative “aims to provide tourists and consumers with the best that Dubai has to offer".

A HARMONIOUS PARTNERSHIP

new york philharmonic music director alan Gilbert and the orchestra in david Geffen Hall at lincoln center, image: chris lee

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Emirates is expanding its cultural sponsorship portfolio and has announced a new multi-year sponsorship deal as the Official Airline of the New York Philharmonic. The sponsorship began last month, and lasts for three years. It includes ticket and hospitality experiences at Lincoln Center’s David Geffen Hall and the New York Philharmonic Concer ts in the Parks, Presented by Didi and Oscar Schafer, as well as a number of branding and adver tising oppor tunities. It joins Emirates’ roster of the world’s most renowned symphonies and is par t of a dedication to the growth of global ar ts and culture. This can be seen through a number of its sponsorships such as the Emirates Airline Festival Of Literature, the Dubai Summer Surprises shopping festival, the Emirates Airline Dubai Jazz Festival and the Dubai International Film Festival.

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New routes, capacity upgrades aNd frequeNcy iNcreases

Emirates continues to add new routes, upgrade capacity and increase frequency on its extensive global network. Starting August 3, the carrier will launch a daily service from Dubai to Yangon in Myanmar and Hanoi in Vietnam. A Boeing 777-300ER aircraft will serve the route, providing a new flight option for passengers travelling between Hanoi and Yangon, as well as opening up new connections for travellers across the Emirates’ network.

The latest frequency increases include a second daily A380 flight to Los Angeles, which began on July 1, while a third daily Cape Town service commences on July 4. As of August 1, Sri Lanka will see 34 weekly flights to Colombo, and London will get a tenth daily service starting from October 1. The latest aircraft upgrades include 777s now flying on Tunis and Malta services, and the A380 is now flying to Vienna (turn to page 76 for more).

emirates official airliNe partNer of expo 2020

It has now been revealed that Emirates will be the Official Airline Partner of Expo 2020. As its first Premier Partner, the carrier will play a key role in bringing visitors to the much anticipated event. Emirates’ strong global brand and marketing efforts, and its extensive route network to more than 150 destinations, means that it is uniquely placed to support Expo 2020 Dubai in attracting 25 million visitors. The size and duration of the mega

event means that it will be one of the most-visited global events of the year. In comparison, the London 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games attracted in the region of 700,000 international visitors. In keeping with the partnership, Expo 2020 Dubai’s theme ‘Connecting Minds, Creating The Future’, recognises that generating sustainable solutions to global problems demands collaboration across cultures, nations and regions. | 98 |

more live sportiNg actioN oNboard

Sport fans onboard Emirates will now find an amazing array of live onscreen action available to them, with a second sports channel added to its ice TV Live. With live television on over 90 of Emirates Boeing 777s and selected A380s, travelling spor ts fans can enjoy more live action than ever. Spor t 24 Extra will complement the exsisting Spor t 24 channel, offering double the live spor ts coverage on ice Digital Widescreen, Emirates’ award-winning, inflight enter tainment system. The channels will offer live matches and coverage of the most anticipated top spor ting events this summer, including UEFA Euro 2016, Wimbeldon, NBA, Formula 1, the US Open and Moto GP. Spor t 24 Extra and Spor t 24 will also provide live coverage of the Olympics from Rio this August. Emirates continues to invest in enhancing the inflight enter tainment experience for its customers. Other than spor ts, ice TV Live also offers a selection of international news channels including CNN, BBC World News, Sky News, Euro News, CNBC, Al Jazeera and NHK World.

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A model for chAnge In the battle against the illegal wildlife trade, raising awareness is crucial, which is why from now on you'll notice a very special Emirates A380 at London's Heathrow airport. Learn more on channel 1502 on ice Digital Widescreen

Anybody flying from London's Heathrow Airportwill have seen it. A fifth Emirates A380 emblazoned with special livery in support of United For Wildlife. Over the past six months, Emirates has literally taken its message against the illegal wildlife trade to the skies, and the airline’s four eye-catching ‘United For Wildlife’ A380 aircraft have flown more than 4.2 million kilometres on over 800 flights, delighting customers, global travellers and plane spotters in 34 cities spanning five continents. However, unlike its four jet-powered siblings, this latest Emirates United For Wildlife A380 aircraft is featured in situ, at the traffic roundabout leading to London Heathrow airport – a highly visible site that reaches millions of international travellers and their families and friends annually. One of the largest known aircraft models in the world, the Emirates A380 model at London Heathrow’s roundabout is built to an exact 1:3 scale of a real A380. Weighing more than 45 tonnes, the model is actually the same size as a real Boeing 737. Sir Tim Clark, President of Emirates Airline, said, “The illegal wildlife trade has brought many of our planet’s most majestic

animals to the brink of extinction. It is unthinkable that a generation from now, there may be no more rhinos, elephants or tigers to be found in the wild. The need for action is urgent, and both the demand and supply side of the illegal wildlife trade has to be tackled. Through our global brand footprint, Emirates can help drive consumer awareness and interest in the issue. And as the world’s largest international airline, we believe we can make a difference to help break the supply chain of illegal wildlife trade. We will continue to do all we can in this regard.” The Rt Hon The Lord Hague of Richmond, Chair of the United For Wildlife Transport Taskforce, said, “Emirates and Sir Tim have contributed enormously to raising awareness of the illegal wildlife trade and are setting a great example for the world's airlines.” In addition to consumer awareness efforts, Emirates is collaborating with international organisations to train and better equip its ground and cargo staff to detect and deal with illegal wildlife products in transit. As the required paperwork for movement of some wildlife products is often forged, Emirates also made the decision to ban trophy shipments.

how you cAn help Consumers can contribute in a big way, by boycotting products made from endangered animals and encouraging others to do so. You can also get updates by liking CITES and United For Wildlife on Facebook For more on wildlife and conservation, visit the Wildlife TV channels 1250 to 1259 on ice Digital Widescreen | 100 |

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The righT sTuff They’re the warm and welcoming face of the airline, yet for the more than 23,000 Emirates Cabin Crew, people-skills are just the tip of the iceberg. Senior Vice President of the airline’s cabin crew training facility, Catherine Baird, explains what it takes to be part of the team Words: matt mostyn

they come from more than 130 countries, and collectively speak over 60 different languages. they’re from all walks of life, with a diverse range of backgrounds. they may have already worked as doctors, or nurses, or teachers – and some have already been awarded an mBa or a Phd. Yet each and every one of emirates’ cabin crew begins their career with the airline in the exact same way – at emirates aviation College, dubai’s state-of-the-art training facility for flight personnel. Opened in 2007, the college offers the highest standards of safety and service deliver y, combining theoretical and practical components in classrooms and highly sophisticated full motion simulators. It’s a level of training that far exceeds any other. As Cabin Crew Training Senior Vice President, Catherine Baird, explains, “We often get crew who’ve worked with other airlines – and they’re generally blown away by the facility here. It means that the people who train with us have been exposed to more individual scenarios than crew who’ve already been flying for many years.” Around 5,000 people per year join Emirates as cabin crew – and last year alone, more than 200,000 applied – so it’s far from easy to get in, and only the top five per cent will make it through.

For the lucky few who do (so-called ‘ab initio’ recruits), the first phase of training takes place over eight weeks and covers all aspects of a crew member’s role – from induction, safety and emergency procedures, security, medical training to image and uniform, cabin service and hospitality training. On induction, cabin crew are introduced to Emirates’ unique service philosophy through a one-day experiential programme. “It’s titled ‘Nujoum’”, explains Baird, “which is Arabic for many stars – or as we say, ‘a sky full of shining stars’, and it’s this philosophy that is a core part of the service component of their training.” Following this first phase, it’s time to adjust hat, scarf or tie and go flying – and over the coming months, trainees will also complete a probationary por tfolio, while par ticipating in various webinars and gathering feedback from colleagues, customers and onboard leaders. Returning to training four months later, they conclude with a three-day assessment, where they present their por tfolios and are assessed via role-play exercises in top-of-the-range cabin service simulators. Finally, if they meet Emirates’ standard, they’re cleared to graduate. All in all, the entire process actually takes six months, and graduation is by no means automatic. For some recruits, it can

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Around 5,000 people per year join Emirates as cabin crew – last year alone, more than 200,000 applied – so it’s far from easy to get in. Only the top 5 per cent will make it

be particularly challenging. “The biggest surprise is often the staggering amount of detailed knowledge and information to take in,” says Baird. “Especially when it comes to issues like safety and emergency information. There’s so much more to being cabin crew than people might realise – and even for the top five per cent of applicants who’ve made it through the recruitment process, it can be a little overwhelming at times.” Nevertheless, the recruitment drive is incredibly thorough, meaning that those selected have the innate skills to help them thrive. “We invest a lot in our recruitment drive”, Baird explains. “Our teams go out and personally meet each and every individual candidate before they come to Dubai. Last year they travelled to 146 cities in 79 countries to find our crew – so the ones who make it here are pretty amazing. The investment in recruitment is staggering, because we know that for our customers to get a great experience, we really have to recruit the right people.” “We look for candidates who are passionate about people,” says Baird. “The job can be tough, and you’re required to be upbeat and friendly – so we want people who are kind, considerate and caring, who enjoy being around others. Successful recruits are adaptable and flexible, and of course they need to have a spirit of adventure, seeing as they’ll be moving countries to work with us.”

That factor makes Emirates a truly international airline. “All up, we’ve got 139 nationalities – so it’s a fabulous oppor tunity to work in a cosmopolitan environment, to make great international friendships, and to benefit from the insider knowledge of colleagues who are from some of the countries on your flight routes. It’s those kinds of experiences that make working here such a rich oppor tunity.” For seasoned crew, the opportunities for career advancement, both internally and externally, are tremendous. “We’re a fertile ground for employers around the world who want to employ really global, agile, respectful people,” says Baird. “We have many examples of crew who walk into incredible roles elsewhere, because of the people skills they developed here with us. That ability to work as a team in a global company is something you can’t just study. You have to experience it, and once you have it can open the doors to some amazing possibilities.” On a personal level, working with Emirates’ Aviation College has given Baird a remarkable insight into the lives of her flight personnel. “As a passenger, you never really find out much about the person who’s standing in front of you – but the people I get to know have some incredible stories to tell.” As she describes, many of the crew send almost their entire salary home, acting as the sole breadwinner for their family – while even within the initial selection process, in some instances a candidate may have their entire village will travel with them. Others may apply five or six times, working to progressively get their English up to scratch or develop the skills required, so determined are they to succeed. “That tenacity and resilience is really very humbling,” says Baird. “I am proud to work with an amazing team of trainers, many of them previously cabin crew, who’s professionalism and passion creates an inspiring learning environment for our cabin crew.”

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D e s t i n a t i o n

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D E S T I N A T I O N

VIENNA Emirates is now serving Austria with the world’s largest passenger aircraft. As the A380 makes its debut at Vienna International Airport, enjoy our guide to this exceptional city Just one aftrnoon there is enough to see why Vienna is so often labelled as one of the world's most lievable cities. Traditional and modern architecture sit harmoniously alongside each other, which is why walking is the best way to enjoy what the city has to offer. It's also packed with bustling cafes and exceptional restaurants. Vienna’s greatest triumph, however, is its cultural and musical heritage, still fuelling the buzz of everyday life. Indeed, the city can boast that it has inspired the likes of Sigmund Freud, Johann

Strauss, Franz Schubert and Erwin Schrödinger among its many cultural, musical and academic inhabitants. The palaces of Schönbrunn, Hofburg and the Ringstrasse are all must-visits, but you will soon discover a multitude of other interesting museums and architectural triumphs. In the evening head to a classical concert or swing by a trendy jazz club before heading home safe in the knowledge that you’re in one of Europe’s finest cities.

EAT

STAY

DO

STEIRERECK Boasting two Michelin stars, this exquisite restaurant has it all. With a stunning location in Stadtpark, the food still wins the wow factor with local cuisine brought to the forefront of modernity. Ever had fish cooked in beeswax at your table? steirereck.at

HOTEL IMPERIAL Step back in time to one of the grandest hotels in Europe. Built in 1863 as a palace for Prince von Württemberg, it became a hotel within 10 years of opening and has played host to the great and the good of European society ever since. imperialvienna.com

EXPLORE THE LIFE OF FREUD One of the city’s most famous inhabitants is celebrated at the Sigmund Freud Museum. It’s based in the actual apartment in which the founder of psychoanalysis lived from 1898 to 1938, and there are plenty of his personal items on display. freud-museum.at

XXL - RESTAURANT LEOPOLDAUER ALM As you may gather from the name, this place is about big portions. The atmosphere is lively and the focus is very much on the experience of eating giant plates of filling fare. It’s not glamourous, but it’s a whole heap of hearty fun. leopoldaueralm.at

HOSTEL RUTHENSTEINER VIENNA In a great location between the city centre and Schönbrunn Palace, the communal garden and music area are the standouts of this clean, friendly and internationallyflavoured hostel. Grab a guitar and play your favourite Bob Marley tune or get the barbeque going and make friends. hostelruthensteiner.com

VISIT THE WORLD’S OLDEST ZOO It’s the world’s oldest and, for many, one of Europe’s best. The giant pandas are the star attraction, but there are plenty of other wonderful animals and enclosures to see. It'll be busy, so buy tickets in advance to avoid having to queue. zoovienna.at

AMERLINGBEISL Off the beaten track, this relaxed, but buzzy restaurant-cum-bar, is most famed amongst Viennese for its wonderful garden courtyard. Expect traditional dishes and well-priced cocktails to help you while away a wonderful evening. A great stop if you're on the way to a concert at Palais Auersperg. amerlingbeisl.at

HOTEL DAS TRIEST Designed by Sir Terence Conran, this boutique hotel is still classically stylish even if competing with more contemporary properties in the city. Ask for a room with a private terrace to gain direct access to the private gardens and courtyard. The breakfast here is also superb. dastriest.at/triest/en/home

RIDE THE RIESENRAD Give your aching feet a rest from exploring the city for 20 minutes and sit back in one of the Ferris wheel’s wooden gondolas. Opened in 1897 to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of former Austrian emperor Franz Josef, the attraction still delights visitors with its wonderful city views. sunrise.wienerriesenrad.com

EMIRATES STAFF TIPS

Christoph Zinkel PRICING OFFICER

SHOP LOCAL “The market at Freyung has locally produced vegetables, sweets, ceramics and baskets.”

Elisabeth Schmon COMMERCIAL MANAGER

GO TO THE FLICKS

“Votivkino cinema is one of the oldest in Vienna. On Sundays they offer a movie brunch. Be sure to book in advance.”

Emirates offers two flights a day to Vienna. The A380 service, EK 127 departs Dubai at 08:55 and arrives in Vienna at 12:55hrs. EK 128 departs Vienna at 15:05 and arrives in Dubai at 22:45hrs.

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C O M F O R T

COMFORT IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.

SMART TRAVELLER

DRINK PLENTY OF WATER Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.

TRAVEL LIGHTLY

WEAR GLASSES

Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.

Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition. Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications? Get a good night’s rest before the flight. Eat lightly and sensibly.

AT THE AIRPORT

USE SKIN MOISTURISER Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.

KEEP MOVING Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles. This encourages blood flow.

DURING THE FLIGHT

Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in. Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress. Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent. Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy. Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

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MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.

WHEN YOU ARRIVE Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.

This image is for advertising purposes. EQ46549-29/09/2016

INTERNATIONALLY ACCREDITED HEALTHCARE SERVICES AT YOUR DOORSTEP MEDICLINIC MIDDLE EAST OPERATES: • • • • • •

Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic

Welcare Hospital Dubai Mall Meadows Mirdif Beach Road Corniche

• • • • • •

Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic Mediclinic

City Hospital Ibn Battuta Arabian Ranches Al Qusais Al Sufouh Al Hili

EXPERTISE YOU CAN TRUST. UAE • SOUTH AFRICA • NAMIBIA • SWITZERLAND www.mediclinic.ae

c u s t o m s

&

v i s a

i n f o r m a t i o n

Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.

CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure. ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending. A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport. apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom** * SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr programmE. | 111 |

c u s t o m s

&

v i s a

i n f o r m a t i o n

Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. US Customs and Border Protection Agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.

Follow theSe StePS:

1

2

3

4

have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.

You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals hall.

After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.

If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.

quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card. You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left on board. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.

quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items. You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock the counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer. | 112 |

U A E

S M A R T

G A T E

BE SMART! USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

UAE

Andorra

Australia

Austria

Bahrain

Belgium

Brunei

Canada

Denmark

Finland

France

Germany

Greece

Iceland

Ireland

Italy

Japan

Kuwait

Liechtenstein

Luxembourg

Malaysia

Monaco

Netherlands

New Zealand

Norway

Oman

Portugal

Qatar

San Marino

Saudi Arabia

Singapore

South Korea

Spain

Sweden

Switzerland

*UK

USA

GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International airport by using UAE Smart Gate. If you hold a machine-readable passport or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds. Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

1

Have your E-Gate card or machinereadable passport ready to be scanned

2

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card into the E-Gate slot

OK!

3

Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed. | 114 |

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:

• Machine-readable passports from the above countries • E-Gate cards

YOUR CONCRETE PRODUCT REQUIREMENT OUR PRODUCTION SYSTEM SOLUTION

ONE OF THE MOST ADVANCED TECHNOLOGICALLY EQUIPPED FULLY AUTOMATIC PRODUCTION LINES FOR YOUR COMPLETE RANGE OF CONCRETE PRODUCTS

AIR PURIFYING BLOCKS UV pollutant

(E.G.Nox)

clean air

TIO2

ILLUMINATED TECHNOLOGY

AIR PURIFYING TECHNOLOGY

Fujian Excellence Honcha Environmental Intelligence Equipment Co. Ltd

Head Office: 3-16B, Quanzhou Economic & Technological Development Zone, Quanzhou, Fujian 362005, China Factory: Xuefen, Huaqiao Economic Development Zone, Nan’an Fujian, 362300, China Tel. No: (86-595) 2249 6062 , 2249 6066, 2249 6070 | Fax. No: (86-595) 2249 6061 Web: en.honcha.com | E-mail: marketing@hcm.cn , enquiry@honcha.com

R O U T E

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M A P

R O U T E

M A P

NEW ROUTES: Yangon and Hanoi: daily service starts August 3

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R O U T E

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M A P

R O U T E

M A P

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EMIRATES FLEET

Our fleet of 256 aircraft includes 241 passenger aircraft and 15 SkyCargo aircraft

BOEING 777-300ER This month:

up to

2 arriving

2500+ 70% 84 (70%) out of 120 Boeing 777-300ERs are now equipped with Live Television, Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services. More are being upgraded each month.

120 in fleet. Up to 354-442 passengers. Range of 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-300 850+

12 in fleet. Up to 364 passengers. Range of 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m

BOEING 777-200LR 2500+ 70% 8 (80%) out of 10 Boeing 777-200LRs are now equipped with Live Television, Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services. More are being upgraded each month.

10 in fleet. Up to 266 passengers. Range of 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

BOEING 777-200ER

This month:

850+

4 in fleet. Up to 274 passengers. Range of 14,310km. L 63.7m x W 60.9m

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

BOEING 777F

The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

13 in fleet. Range of 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet | 120 |

1 retiring

CONNECTIVITY AND ENTERTAINMENT SERVICES AVAILABLE

# Live Television

Wi-Fi

Mobile Phone GSM

This month:

Data Roaming GPRS

1 arriving

Channels of inflight entertainment

AIRBUS A380-800 2500+

Last month, Live Television was launched on our A380s. This month, three A380s are equipped, with more coming soon.

82 in fleet. Up to 489-615 passengers. Range of 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m

AIRBUS A340-300 100+

850+

Economy Class First Class and Business Class

4 in fleet. Up to 267 passengers. Range of 13,350km. L 63.6m x W 60.3m

AIRBUS A330-200 This month:

1 retiring

100+

850+

Economy Class First Class and Business Class

8 in fleet. Up to 237-278 passengers. Range of 12,200km. L 58.8m x W 60.3m

AIRBUS A319 550+

1 in fleet. Up to 19 passengers. Range of 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m

The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

BOEING 747 ERF This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.

2 in fleet. Range of 9,204km. L 70.6m x W 64.4m Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press | 121 |

K N O W L E D G E

DESTINATION

THE SIGHTS

KNOW YOUR CITY. THIS MONTH: SAN FRANCISCO

San Francisco Bay is only 12-15 feet deep. Large ships in the bay must follow deep underwater channels that are maintained by frequent dredging.

The Golden Gate Bridge is painted ‘International Orange’ – a colour specially created for the bridge. NPR

A common myth suggests the Golden Gate Bridge is painted end to end, but it’s continually touched up, which is no mean feat considering it’s wrapped in fog 70 per cent of the time. NPR

ILLUSTRATIONS BY RALPH MANCAO

RANDOM FACTS

US Geological Survey

Made In Chin a MIKE WE NEED TO GO! I’M ALMOST DONE

San Francisco’s fire department uses wooden ladders instead of metal ones to reduce the risk of electrocution from the numerous tram and power lines the city uses. They make the ladders themselves.” San Francisco Fire Department

The Chinese fortune cookie isn’t Chinese. It’s the creation of Makato Hagiwara, a Japanese resident of San Francisco. San Francisco Tourist board

The San Francisco International Airport is supported by 267 columns that each rest on a large steel ball, allowing the ground to move 20 inches in any direction during an earthquake. San Francisco Airport

FRISCO NUMBERS

17.5

43

1,600

26

29

The degrees of slant on Filbert Street. San Fran’s steepest That’s a 31.5 per cent gradient

The number of hills San Francisco is built on

The jumpers from the Golden Gate Bridge

The survivors Los Angeles Times

San Francisco Chronicle

Los Angeles Times

The per cent of San Francisco’s pollution that comes from China. Environmental Science and Technology journal

San Francisco Tourist board

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RIMOWA ELECTRONIC TAG

THE FIRST DIGITAL CHECK-IN SOLUTION FOR YOUR LUGGAGE.

The future of convenient travelling: RIMOWA Electronic Tag. Check in your luggage with your smartphone wherever you are and drop it off within seconds. Find out more at: www.rimowa-electronictag.com

RIMOWA Store, Abu Dhabi Mall. Bloomingdale’s, Dubai. Galeries Lafayette, Dubai. Harvey Nichols, Dubai. Tryano Yas Mall, Abu Dhabi. Jashanmal: Dubai Mall – Mall of the Emirates – Dubai Marina Mall – Dubai Festival City Mall.