HOW INDIA CHANGED THE BEATLES
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ContributorS
Chris Anderson, Andrew Birbeck, Marina Chetner, Gemma Correll, Sarah Freeman, Ben Jacobs, Jamie Knights, Vincent Long, Matt Mostyn, Sandra Tinari, Stuart Turton, Rachael Vance, Rehab Al Haj Yousef Cover: Rui Ricardo
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114,149 copies July – December 2015 Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE
E d i t o r ’ s
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ANDREW NAGY
on the coVeR
SenIoR edIToR
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here’s an issue of Life magazine from Februar y 1968 where, amidst the panic-fuelled prose of strung-out war repor ters in Saigon, you’ll find an ar ticle entitled: The Year of The Guru, featuring a man known as the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi. In 1968, a series of world tours explaining the vir tues of Transcendental Meditation (TM) had slowly pushed the Maharishi into the public eye, and his greatest coup was to attract the biggest band on the planet to go and
While commentators of the time dismissed it as a pop culture fad, the east meets west philosophy piqued the interest of millions, with many embracing it in a bid to emulate their heroes, and maybe find some answers of their own. While scientific study of the time took itself way too seriously to examine the effects of meditation, what The Beatles learned in India would run much deeper than the 40-odd songs they composed while there.
“an intRoVeRted seaRch foR answeRs by way of easteRn philosophy was an unusual moVe, eVen foR a supeRstaR” live an austere existence at his ashram in India’s holy land of Rishikesh. At this point, The Beatles had everything: fame, money, respect, women, anger, frustration, bitterness, jealousy… an almighty comedown from the most hedonistic decade in histor y. While nowadays a clichéd rite of passage for a weather-worn musician – success and excess followed by yoga and lentils – an introver ted search for answers by way of Eastern philosophy was an unusual move back then, even for a superstar. The Beatles’ adoption of TM represented a seismic shift.
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Fast forward 48 years and multimillion dollar studies now explain how intensive meditation can improve attention, cognitive function and emotion regulation, while others show the benefits of yoga and mindfulness. As unlikely as it might seem, there’s a genuine school of thought that argues The Beatles paved the way for this, highlighting a practice that has improved the lives of millions. Now, as the ashram is reopened to the world, India is once again at the centre of Beatles folklore. A trip there might just change your life. Enjoy the issue.
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how india changed the beatles Illustrator, Rui Ricardo, has worked with some of the biggest brands in the world, and this month he takes hold of another global icon – The Beatles – with this unique take on Abbey Road.
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JUNE Some of the people who helped create this issue of Open Skies CHRIS ANDERSON
ANDREW BIRBECK
MARINA CHETNER
SARAH FREEMAN
Chris is a freelance journalist based in London, writing mainly for travel and men’s lifestyle magazines. This month he writes our cover story, gets spiritual and delves into The Beatles’ time in India.
Andrew is an Edinburgh-born author, writer and blogger who contributes to a broad range of titles. A regular in Open Skies, this month he writes on one woman’s career (and life) change, and how it proved to be the making of her.
Marina is an Australian-born writer based in Los Angeles. A regular contributor to Open Skies, this month she met with Peak Mind founder, Michael Trainer. It’s fair to say he’s not your average entrepreneur.
Sarah is a freelance photojournalist from the UK who specialises in travel and wellness. This month she reconnects with her roots by exploring Manchester’s Nor thern Quar ter. “I’ve always had a soft spot for Manchester; it has a great soul and banter in bucketloads. Despite the overcast weather, exploring the Northern Quarter was anything but dull. In fact I’m already planning a return visit.”
“The Beatles went to India as a form of therapy, to find something that was missing from their lives. Writing about their trip has been a therapy of sorts for me, too, understanding their most creative ever period.”
“Catherine Keers upped sticks and headed off across the Atlantic to a new life. Better still, she transformed the challenge into an opportunity. To my mind, that takes guts.”
“Lunch with Michael could’ve easily stretched to dinner. Over vegan salads and coffee, we discussed what it means to be a global citizen, the wide world of neurology, and most importantly, Michael’s biggest inspiration: his father.”
BEN JACOBS
SANDRA TINARI
STUART TURTON
RACHAEL VANCE
Ben is a senior spor ts commentator for BeIN Spor ts. He was the voice of the recent El Clásico in Spain and numerous Europa League matches this season. This month he spoke to the French football legend, Marcel Desailly, about the European Championships.
Sandra is an Australian freelance journalist and photographer, based in Dubai, and a regular contributor to Open Skies. This month she writes on the peace you can find among the chaos at the Ismaili Centre, in the hear t of Bur Dubai.
Stuar t is a freelance journalist specialising in travel and technology. He spends a lot of time going in the wrong direction, grumbling at smar tphones and trying to remember where he left his house keys. This month he writes on Beijing.
Rachael is a Berlin-based Australian ar ts, lifestyle and travel writer who has managed contemporary ar t galleries and curated exhibitions. For this issue she travelled to Basel, one of the ar t world’s key global destinations.
“To discover such a beautiful, cultural building and gardens in the heart of Dubai was a real treat. Peace just oozes from the bricks and mortar of the Ismaili Centre, Dubai.”
“Naturally, there’s always been a healthy amount of intrigue when it comes China, so it was great to look into how its capital city works on a daily basis from the ground up.”
“The feature presents a contemporary snapshot of Basel, taking readers on a journey connecting the Swiss city’s cultural star attractions in art, architecture and design.”
“Marcel has won pretty much everything going in the game – including the Euros – so who better to speak with ahead of this month’s tournament in his home country?”
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Carefully curated content focused on unique experiences The Northern Quarter, Manchester
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June 6 – July 6
Ramadan worldwide
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held in the heart of dubai over 10 nights of ramadan (June 23 to July 2), the ramadan night Market will host retailers from across the region and the rest of the world, offering a diverse and exciting shopping experience. timings are from 8pm to 2am. ramadannightmarket.com
Ramadan is the most significant month of the year for Muslims; a time for family and community, friends and neighbours. For me, that togetherness is what the Holy Month is all about. While fasting during Ramadan is considered one of the five pillars of Islam that shape our life, the month isn’t just about denying yourself food and water; it’s about re-focusing your attention on your faith, on self-discipline, and on charity. After fasting during daylight, at sundown we gather together at iftar. Following this family meal we go to the mosque for Tarawih prayers, and then to visit friends and neighbours. Most of the time, we set up our own majlis [tents] where we can meet up to talk and enjoy Arabic sweets made especially for the month, as well as fresh Arabic coffee with cardamom and saffron falvours. As Dubai is home to a host of different cultures and nationalities, Ramadan is a great opportunity to promote understanding of Islam. If you’re visiting this month, head to the Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Centre For Cultural Understanding at Al Fahidi District to learn more about Islamic tradition in the UAE. There are also a host of tents that spring up in the city where you can enjoy an early morning suhoor, or an evening iftar. After Ramadan comes Eid Al Fitr, a three-day holiday where we we serve special Eid cookies, or maamoul, which I always prepare at home with my mother during the last nights of the month. Muslims also wear new clothes, and according to Arabic custom, buy toys or give money to the children. It’s a truly joyous occasion. | 21 |
IMAGE: GEtty
OpEn SkIES ArAbIc EdItOr, Rehab al haj Yousef, On hOw thE hOly MOnth IS A tIME fOr frIEndS, fAMIly, rEfElEctIOn… And SOME AMAzInG hOMEMAdE ArAbIc SwEEtS
E x p E r i E n c E
June 10 – July10
Euro 2016 France
I guess people think French football peaked when we won the 1998 World Cup and the 2000 Euros. In terms of silverware that’s absolutely true. But what’s funny is the current French team is deeper and technically stronger than we ever were. Myself, Thierry Henry, Patrick Vieira, Zinedine Zidane and Didier Deschamps carried that team. Deschamps, though, has an array of talent at his disposal now, so much so, in fact, that he doesn’t even need [the injured] Franck Ribery. Paul Pogba and Antoine Griezmann are going to be
big players for France. Both are amazing talents and in incredible form. I know all about not just winning the Euros but also performing on home soil. France ’98 came with incredible expectation and if anything a World Cup is a bit easier to deal with at the start. The thing about the Euros is you have no easy games. There’s maybe a little bit more time to get used to a World Cup, depending on what group you draw, of course. I think France can win the tournament this month, but it’s also a shame Karim
Benzema isn’t there [the Real Madrid striker was suspended due to allegations of conspiracy to blackmail a teammate]. I understand why and so, I think, do all French fans, but he’s a weapon that might be missed. The team are settled now, though, and that’s why he isn’t there. My generation had less depth and definitely less technical skills, but we had a whole lot of knowhow. Handling the occasion can be half the battle when you are the host, and if France do that, I don’t see why they can’t win the tournament.
Don’t miss the action from Euro 2016. Watch it live on the Sport 24 channel on ice. ice TV Live is available on more than 90 Emirates Boeing 777s. Plus, this month Emirates takes delivery of its first A380 equipped with live TV.
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F l a s h b a c k
June 4, 1976
The nighT ThaT changed music The mosT famous gig you never saw helped kick-sTarT punk and breaThed new life inTo a ciTy
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ice Digital Widescreen has more than 1,600 channels of music and radio covering dozens of genres from around the world. Rock starts on Channel 3680 where you’ll find more than 100 channels of essential albums and playlists from top artists.
If you believe the rumours, there could well have been a few thousand people in Manchester’s Lesser Free Trade Hall that night – which is impressive, as it only held around 150 at best. Those who were really there, watching a band they’d probably never heard of called The Sex Pistols, know the real figure to be around 30, but the myth that has endured for 40 years is testament, not just to what happened that night, but to the effect it had on the city almost overnight. At the time, Britain’s youth found itself paralysed by a prog rock-induced coma, desperately searching for something that could shock their system back to life. In 1976, as the country was discovering, nothing was quite as shocking as The Pistols. The gig that night was OK – The Pistols were a far more talented bunch than they would have you believe – but it’s what happened afterwards that meant this gig, along with Woodstock and Live Aid, was voted one of the most impor tant of all time. Among those credited with being in the audience that night, a 20-year-old Peter Hook went to a shop on Mazel Road the very next day and bought a bass guitar. He then went on to form Joy Division. Mark E Smith would form The Fall later that year, and Steven Patrick Morrissey would go on to star t a band called The Smiths. Also there that night, Tony Wilson would create Factory Records two years later, and with it the Madchester scene that would go on to illuminate the city. While The Pistols undoubtedly changed music – albeit for others perhaps more than themselves as they imploded less than two years later – Manchester had its own rebirth that night, fuelled by anarchy, excitement and a love of independent music that feeds the city to this day.
A HOME OF LEGENDS AFFLECKS WAS AT THE HEART OF THE CITY’S REVIVAL A classic example of the red brick architecture of the city, Afflecks Market was arguably another by-product of The Pistols’ gig. The go-to place for clothes, records and, well, everything else during the height of the Madchester period, it maintains its iconic status to this day. afflecks.com
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E n t r E p r E n E u r
My Seattle StyliSt Seattle, USa
Words: AndreW BirBeck imAges: my seAttle stylist | 26 |
E N T R E P R E N E U R
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areer changes are what almost all of us dream about at some stage of our lives or another, but what terrifyingly few of us ever really push through. In that respect, Catherine Keers is a notable success. Not that her original career choice was a disappointment; far from it. Headhunted by Microsoft as a project manager for its European operations, she travelled extensively, but after a childhood spent moving around, it was this that made her poke her head above the parapet and question what was going on. “As interesting as the job was, ultimately, the corporate life really wasn’t for me,” says Keers. But IT was still to play a role in her
play. “I guess my look is a little different to the norm here,” says Keers. “More eclectic, edgy and European. It seems a lot of Seattleites were drawn to it. That’s one thing, but I needed to build a business first and foremost. A great website was number one, then I worked on social media and SEO to get to the top of the search engines. I used every social medium I could to get connected to the right people. Word of mouth was key, too. My first private clients spread the word and off it went from there. Great reviews and other clients followed. Then some well-known photographers approached me to do fashion shoots. It was a terrifying, yet incredibly exciting,
their options tend to be a lot more limited. Women are faced with endless choices, often dictated by celebrity and media trends. So for them, it’s usually a more complex decision-making process.” Ultimately, it’s all about how you see yourself. “Fashion is trend-based,” says Keers. “Style is individual, your interpretation of what you like, what looks good on you and your vision of how you want to present yourself to the world. My advice is to stick to the basics then go from there. Make each piece work and be bold enough to spend the extra dollar. That way you’ll end with a wardrobe full of amazing things.” myseattlestylist.com
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future, albeit a sideways one. Her husband also worked at Microsoft, and out of the blue was offered a move to Seattle, a city known for coffee, Nirvana and, yes, IT. “On settling in, I noticed the city had very few good wardrobe stylists. I’d always been into fashion, or more accurately, style. I love clothes. It’s that simple. Then it dawned on me, it was a market that was a perfect fit. So I decided to jump in.” A combination of being style-savvy and a wealth of business experience, specifically in the IT world, then came into
learning curve.” At present there are two sides to the business: personal styling and commercial photographic styling, and art direction. Realising the value of creating an all-encompassing brand, Keers is also currently working with a top local designer with a view to launching her own clothing range next year. As Keers styles both men and women, it gives her something of a glimpse into the style psyche of both. “In general, men are fairly open to new ideas and defining how they want to look. Having said that,
For stylish Seattle head to… Baby And Co, Mario’s, Butch Blum, Turgeon-Raine, Totokaelo and the wonderful designer Kate Mensah. The top hair salons in town are… For women, Rory in Coupe Rokei, but book ahead, she’s always busy. You’ll look like you just stepped off a magazine cover. Men should see Dru at Chrome Salon, he’s ace. For the coolest views make for… Columbia Tower, Space Needle, Sunset At Aqua By El Gaucho restaurant, Seattle Ferris Wheel. On a sunny day, settle into a beach bar and watch the sunset shine on the city skyline from Alki beach. For a taste of Seattle at its best eat at… Il Bistro in Pike’s Market, Lola’s, the Pink Door (catch a trapeze show while you dine), The Walrus and the Carpenter, Toulouse Petit for a lively atmosphere. The best advice I can give is… Open as many windows as possible, see what flies through, then grab on to whatever excites you most.
Emirates launched service to Seattle just over four years ago – in March 2012 – and has since flown more than 900,000 passengers on the route.
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S t a y :
R o o m
Kahanda Kanda Sri Lanka
Words: AndreW nAgy ImAges: KAhAndA KAndA While most people head to Sri Lanka for a beach holiday, a visit to Kahanda Kanda in Galle proves that the jungle option can be a relaxing alternative. Set on a working tea estate and only two-and-a-half hours from the airport, this boutique offering has 10 individually designed villas – three with their own
pool and each offering a charming mix of colonial-style and contemporary touches. The largest, and oldest, villa is the Dubu suite. A stunning antique Jogo house from Java, its dark wood interior is only bettered by the stunning gardens it resides in. Spend your days trying yoga or cookery classes, have a massage or simply stay by
the pool, watching all manner of animals pass by – geckos, rabbits and a whole menagerie of birds are the norm. When the sun sets, head to the restaurant overlooking Koggala Lake for a cocktail and fantastic, locally sourced, meal. It’s fair to say you’ve had worse days. kahandakanda.com
On April 1, 1986, flight EK 800 touched down in Colombo, Emirates’ fourth global destination. Thirty years later, Emirates continues to connect Sri Lanka to the world, with 34 flights a week from Colombo. A new fifth daily flight between Colombo and Dubai starts August 1.
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S t a y :
C l a S S i C
THE RITZ PARIS, FRANCE
Words: ANdrEW NAGY ImAGEs: GEttY In the world of architecture and design, there are big jobs and there are big jobs. Re-imagining the Ritz Paris, it’s accurate to say, is the latter. Closed since 2012, the refurb is the biggest in its history. And what a history it is, too. The Ritz’s 159 rooms and suites have seen every head of state and highprofile celebrity you care to mention,
Coco Chanel and Ernest Hemingway being the most famous long-term residents. Not all have been entirely welcome, of course: the Luftwaffe chose it as its base during the German occupation. A global byword for luxury – the Imperial Suite has been listed by the French government as a national monument – the changes at the Ritz are
set to be spectacular. Almost everything will be refreshed, while Chanel will open its very first spa here – Chanel au Ritz. Whether you’re here for a drink in Bar Hemingway (rumour has it the Bloody Mary was created here), or the fine dining of the legendary L’ Espadon; as of June 1, history awaits. ritzparis.com
Emirates flies three times daily to Paris with the Airbus A380, except on Tuesdays when there are two flights. Emirates also offers daily service to Nice and flights to Lyon five days a week.
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N e i g h b o u r h o o d
THE NORTHERN QUARTER, MANCHESTER Words and Images: sarah Freeman
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N e i g h b o u r h o o d
T
here are few areas that encapsulate the Mancunian spirit better than the Northern Quarter (NQ) and, much like Manchester in general, it’s a place that very much marches to the beat of its own drum. Located north-east of the city centre – and edged by Piccadilly,Victoria and Ancoats – the bohemian neighbourhood is a bastion of independent fashion and music and refreshingly chain-free, with some of the most eclectic shops in the city and a village-like vibe that’s hard to come by in other areas. Sandwiched between its narrow Victorian red brick alleys, weavers cottages and relic warehouses from the Cottonopolis era are architectural landmarks such as the Craft And Design Centre (a fish market-turned-artisanal hub), Swan Street’s Mackie Mayor Building (a former meat market) and the NeoRomanesque arches of the Smithfield Market – all testaments to its mercantile past. Unsurprisingly, this once working class neighbourhood experienced a postindustrial slump in the 1980s and really didn’t bounce back until the early ’90s, with places like Dry Bar (opened by Tony Wilson of Factory Records), followed by Piccadilly Records and a slew of other musical haunts that cemented its status as the city’s prime area for live gigs. The music-loving enclave may lay claim to some of the city’s most authentic old-school pubs, but that hasn’t prevented a new ghetto of cocktails bars from muscling in on the after-hours action. It’s also become somewhat of an affordable foodie hotspot – boasting the highest concentration of independent cafes and coffee shops in the city. Here’s our guide to the best that the Northern Quarter has to offer… | 33 |
N e i g h b o u r h o o d
Vinyl and liVe Music
PICCADILLY RECORDS Frequented by Manchester’s musical royalty since the ’80s, this award-winning independent record shop is a vinyl collector’s dream. Originally housed on Market Street, the king of indie records relocated to the Northern Quarter in the mid-’90s, and its legion of high-profile fans includes the likes of DJ Mary Anne Hobbs, Mr Scruff and The Charlatans frontman, Tim Burgess. Musos can browse aisle upon aisle of vinyl on 7 and 12” (many limited edition), which run the gamut of musical genres from punk to disco and alternative rock to new psyche-folk. And if you’re after that rare 7” or a re-issued CD, be sure to tap into the encyclopaedic knowledge of the guys who work here – which covers most specialist subjects and musical genres. More of a community hub than a record store, it also doubles as a sometime gig space – hosting new and emerging artists hoping to follow in the footsteps of Richard Hawley or The Charlatans, both of whom have performed here. 53 Oldham Street | 0161-839-8008 | piccadillyrecords.com
in The area ( T w o - m i n u T e wa l k )
niGHT & DaY CaFe
A great spot for intimate gigs and good eats, this pioneering music venue is where Johnny Marr met his live band and Guy Garvey penned Elbow’s first album. 26 OldhAM St, M1 1JN, 0161 236 1822, NiGhtNdAy.OrG
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N e i g h b o u r h o o d
DIne AnD DesIgn
A PLACE CALLED COMMON Regarded by many as the bar that launched the Northern Quar ter, this unpretentious bar-slash-gallery space marked its 10th year on the scene with a radical scandi-inspired refurb, in place of its chipboard bar and garish pink walls. The dinner menu has undergone a revamp too, with dishes like spiced lamb tacos and Korean fried chicken adding some punch to its staples of classic chilli burgers, coffee and craft beers. And when it comes to the interiors, there is no shor tage of local pride, with bespoke furniture crafted by Mancunian Peter Masters and fixtures, such as the pendant lampshades and coffee tampers, made by local ceramist Joe Hartley. Almost everything, down to the beer handles, is custom-made and ecofriendly. What’s more, there is an ever-changing backdrop of ar twork displayed against its exposed red brick walls – courtesy of yet more local talent. 39-41 Edge St | 0161-832-9245 | aplacecalledcommon.co.uk
manCheSTer DeSiGn anD CraFT CenTre
In The AreA
Browse ceramics, paintings, jewellery and furniture in the nine working studio boutiques housed in the Design Craft Studio – a former Victorian Fish Market.
( T h r e e - m i n u T e wa l k )
17 Oak St, 0161-832-4274, CraFtanDDeSign.COM
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N e i g h b o u r h o o d
Ice-creAm And burgers
GINGER’S COMFORT EMPORIUM Tucked away on the first floor of Afflecks (Manchester’s very own version of Camden Market), Ginger’s Comfor t Emporium is not your run-of-the-mill ice cream parlour. Described by its founder – former chef, author and food stylist, Claire Kelsey – as “ice-cream for grown-ups”, the vintage-style diner serves up scoops of wildly creative and indulgent flavours, painstakingly made by hand and churned in small batches. Whether you’re craving boozy, spicy or refreshing, Ginger has it covered, from flavours like gin and juniper, to a warming Chai Spice and palette-cleansing Rose And Sage Sorbet. And then there’s the all-time favourite: salted caramel and peanut butter flavour, aka Chorlton Crack. Before making its permanent home in Afflecks, Ginger’s star ted life in 2010 in the guise of a vintage ice-mobile (nicknamed Ginger, of course), which continues to roam Manchester’s streets, serving up anything but your classic 99. Afflecks, Church Street | 07980 628868 | gingerscomfortemporium.com
In The AreA (Five-minute cab ride)
SOLita
Be sure to bring a big appetite to the table of this upscale burger joint, which serves gourmet fast food to the backdrop of graffitiplastered walls. Turner ST, 0161-839-2200, SoliTa.co.uk
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N e i g h b o u r h o o d
in the aRea (Four-minute cab ride)
deadStocK GeneraL Store
Stock-up on all manner of gentlemanly goods from safety razors to Italian toiletries, Swedish horsehair brushes and nail kits at this newly opened retro gem. 46 EdgE St, facEbook.com/ dEadStockgEnEralStorE
Vintage and RetRo
POP BOUTIQUE NQ is a haven for vintage and retro stores, but the queen bee has to be Oldham Street’s Pop Boutique. Star ted in 1994 by Richard Free, who cut his teeth selling flea market pieces at London’s Camden Market, the vintage shop has grown from a standalone store in Manchester to a por tfolio of five boutiques across Leeds, London, Liverpool and even Gothenburg. A treasure trove of fashion and furnishings from the Swinging Sixties, to the Nostalgic Eighties, you can find pretty much ever ything from Adidas sweats and retro American-style jumpers, to kitsch tea sets and Formica tables, hat stands and ar t deco mirrors, as well as pieces from Pops own-brand label. And despite processing a whopping 10,000 kilos of vintage ever y week, the brand’s committed green ethos means that almost ever ything is up-cycled and no garment goes to waste. 34-36 Oldham St | 0161-236-5797 | pop-boutique.com
Emirates flies three times daily to Manchester. Two daily services are operated by the Airbus A380, and a third morning service is operated by a Boeing 777-300ER.
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An oasis amid Bur Dubai’s sprawling office towers, the Ismaili Centre and its verdant gardens, Dubai Park, offer welcoming respite from the busy city streets words and Images: sandra TInarI
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omething of a hidden gem in the heart of Dubai, the peaceful gardens are maintained as a gift to the city’s residents. This is one of six centres around the world – each as architecturally stunning as the last. A great option if you’re visiting the city, it’s regularly open for cultural events and architectural tours. Open Skies spoke to the president of the Ismaili Council UAE, Amiruddin Thanawalla, to discover more.
The centres are symbolic markers of the permanent presence and core values of Ismaili communities around the world. Architecturally unique, they are bridges of friendship and understanding, and serve to enhance relationships among communities, government and civil society. | 43 |
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The main purpose of the centre is to encourage mutual exchange and understanding between diverse peoples, communities and faiths. Each building incorporates spaces for social and cultural gatherings, intellectual engagement and reflection, as well as spiritual contemplation. Through its design and function, the centre reflects a mood of humility, forward outlook, friendship and dialogue. The centres [globally] are not only places for spiritual search, but also spaces for broadening intellectual horizons and fostering an appreciation of pluralism.
The centre hasn’t yet conducted a census of its community, but whenever it hosts a special congregation or a high-profile event, it witnesses a gathering of around 2,500 people.
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Egyptian architects Rami El-Dahan and Soheir Farid sought inspiration from the Fatimid mosques of Cairo. Maintaining their focus on the human scale and the recent past, they also drew on the insights of the late Hassan Fathy, who was renowned for his “architecture for the people”. Architecture is ver y impor tant to His Highness the Aga Khan (the imam of Ismaili Musims). He founded the Aga Khan Award For Architecture in 1977 to highlight architectural projects of excellence in communities where Muslims have a significant presence. The prestigious global award unveiled its shor tlist of 19 nominees at the Ismaili Centre, Dubai, in May.
The gardens are a gift to Dubai’s residents. Extending what the Aga Khan suggested at the foundation-stone laying ceremony, the centre seeks to create a sense of equilibrium, stability and tranquility. This sense of balance and serenity finds its continuum in the wealth of colours and scents in our adjacent Islamic garden, which the Aga Khan Trust For Culture helped to develop as a public park.
Ismaili Centres seek to foster knowledge and understanding both within Muslim societies and with other cultures. Events include musical performances, book launches, seminars, lecture series, professional training for early childhood educators in our early learning centres, exhibitions, suhoor, museum previews and architectural tours. The centre was also recognised by the Dubai Culture And Ar ts Authority, with the inaugural Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum Patrons Of The Ar ts Award in 2010 for its significant contribution towards the development of Dubai’s cultural sector. Ismaili Centre, Dubai, Oud Metha, Bur Dubai, +971 4 336 5566
A convenient way to visit Dubai’s top attractions is with City Sightseeing’s hop-on hop-off bus. Learn more at citysightseeing-dubai.com
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A collection of stories from around the world
The Real Magical Mystery Tour
Art And Architecture Along The Rhine
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ThE ArT Wo RlD DeScEnDs O ThIs MoNtH n BaSeL , B u DoN’T HaVe T YoU GaLlErIsT T To Be A MoSt OuT O o GeT ThE f ThIs CiTy
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n the extreme northern perimeter of the city of Basel, away from the crowds and removed from the touristic centre, a solitary rocket-shaped monument points skywards, signifying the meeting point of Germany, France and Switzerland. In contrast, yet not in contradiction to the charming historic cityscape found a little further upstream, this 18-metre high trination landmark on a small island dissecting the Rhine River, stands symbolic and modern at an ancient crossroads. The river, whose primeval name means to flow and run, streams agelessly and energetically on its long downhill trajectory from the Alps to the North Sea. The spirit of Basel, both current and constant, effortlessly merges a vibrant past with a future vision. This unique confluence of cultures has flowed through the region since
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ancient times, bringing new people, new ideas and a blueprint for the charming and modern Swiss metropolis it has become. The city was sanctioned by the Holy Roman Emperor in the late Middle Ages to hold a yearly fair, considered one of the oldest in Europe, testament to it’s geographic, cultural and economic importance. During the same era the city also established the first university north of the Alps. This tradition of exchange and expertise continues today and the name Basel has become equally synonymous with industries as diverse as jewellery and pharmaceuticals. It is within the world of art, however, that Basel has become a certified brand name. Art Basel, the world’s most prominent fair for modern and contemporary art, held in the city since 1970, now presents fairs in destinations as far flung as Hong Kong and Miami. Every year just before
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the summer solstice in June, when days are long and warm and the vivid light brings an almost Mediterranean atmosphere to the banks of the Rhine, well-heeled doyens of the art world arrive in the city in droves. Gallerists and exhibitors, curators and collectors, artists and art lovers all together in the impressive exhibition centre, Messe Basel, to view thousands of works presented by over 280 international galleries. The fair is divided into several considered sectors. Blue chip, globally recognised galleries such as Gagosian, Pace and Lisson are positioned within the Galleries sector, exhibiting the work of current stars, from Chinese artist Ai Weiwei and British artist Damien Hirst, to the historical work of Picasso and Rothko. The Statements section allows for newer art discoveries and shows work representing the future generation of the market. The wow factor comes to a climax in the dedicated 17,000-square-metre hall for the Unlimited sector. This pioneering component of the fair is dedicated to presenting gigantic large-scale installations and sculptures that invite audience interaction. The large, museum-like environment is dedicated to pushing the limits of the traditional art fair format. The relatively new hall and extension of the centre, designed by acclaimed architectural firm Herzog & de Meuron, is an emblematic passage of the city’s narrative. The local firm, renowned internationally for many projects – including the adaptive reuse of the Tate Modern in London – has been actively engaged in many projects within its own city that have reimagined existing spaces. The Volkshaus Basel, also designed by Herzog & de Meuron, and just a short walk from the fair in the direction of the river, is another practical and appealing example of adapting an existing space. The history of the site, at one time a brewery and concert hall, dates back to the 14th century and has always been utilised in various ways. The current incarnation combines a permanent bar and brasserie with cultural events and banquets, and is a popular destination for both locals and tourists. Just a two-minute stroll from the Volkshaus, the area of Kleinbasel or
This unique confluence of cultures has flowed Through The region since ancienT Times, bringing new people, new ideas and a blueprinT for basel “Little Basel”, is joined to the old city by the Mittlere Brücke, still spanning what was one of the earliest crossings of the Rhine. Directly to the left, overlooking the river, stands the hotel Krafft Basel, initially built in 1872 and named after the original owner. The clean, contemporary aesthetic inside merges seamlessly with the original architecture and maximises the available space. The restaurant, serving what they themselves term as “fresh, local and surprising”, is both spacious and comfortable with superb views across the bridge and out over the river. Many offerings from the menu source regional produce, translating the entire affair into a casual, sophisticated dining experience with a Swiss touch. During these warmer months, dinner is also offered outside on the terrace. Located a few steps closer to the bridge is an outlet specialising in the famous local sweet treat, the Basler Läckerli, or quite literally “the little tasty one”. The Läckerli Huus offers the specialty biscuit flavoured with candied peel, nuts and honey, alongside a ubiquitous assortment of housemade Swiss chocolates. Across the river in the Altstadt “old city” and Grossbasel “Greater Basel”, a hotel, theatre and restaurant adorned with a Michelin star have a direct history
and links to the arts community. Der Teufelhof, established in 1989, was a dream realised by the former owners who initially conceived to simultaneously run a cafe and restaurant in order to subsidise their passion for sustaining a theatre. The theatre, which still supports regional groups and artists, remains an essential attribute to the business ethos. Housed within two interconnected historical buildings, Der Teufelhof is now operated by two former employees, Nathalie Reinhardt and Raphael Wyniger, who continue to uphold the performance with both a passion for gastronomy and the arts. There are actually two restaurants, but it is Bel
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Etage that takes centre stage with its starry accolade and unpretentious fine dining. A self-professed commitment to culture is visibly evident, specifically in their Art Hotel accommodation. Across nine guest rooms local artists from Basel and the surrounding area have transformed the interiors to create living art environments and encouraging intimate art interactions. From recreations of artist atelier spaces, to wall murals that glow in the dark and come to life at night, each room reveals its own character and artistic vision. Make no mistake: this is a walking city, making refuelling a necessity. The no-fuss retro vibe of Brötli Bar – with its great open sandwiches – recalls an era in recent memory where gluten-free was an unknown term in the gastronomic vernacular. Nothing quite compares, though, to pulling up a chair on a summer afternoon just over the river at one of the several open air Buvette [small bistro], an indispensable part of the Basel streetscape and lifestyle. Dotted along the Kleinbasel side of the Rhine, from the Mittlere Brücke towards the trination point, these casual and relaxed establishments serve up simple, tasty fare, a selection of refreshments and offer a voyeuristic vantage point. The Buvette Kaserne,
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EvEry year, whEn days arE long and warm and thE vivid light brings an almost mediterranEan atmosphere to thE banks of thE rhinE, thE art world arrives in thE city operating from a converted shipping container, is just a short walk downstream from the bridge. Heading back in the direction of the fair are the small neighbourhoods of Matthäus and Clara, where several streetside cafes are the target for those involved in the global obsession with great coffee. Cafe Frühling, on Klybeckstrasse, is both a popular meeting point and offers the more traditional espresso alongside various filter and Aero Press coffees. They also serve breakfast all day on the weekend. Art Basel is also somewhat engaged with the city on a physical level. Weaving an exploratory path through Basel’s streets, courtyards and public squares, the fair’s Parcours programme engages the public and fairgoers by placing site-specific sculptures and interventions throughout the city – and a combination of renowned and emerging talents are invited each year. Coinciding with Art Basel in June, and known as the young art fair, LISTE engages the industry at a more grassroots level. Celebrating its 21st year in 2016, the fair invites a select 79 international high-calibre galleries to present works by artists under the age of 40. Also open to the public, it is just a 10-minute walk upstream in a converted semi-industrial multi-level space. Many galleries and artists have used LISTE as a platform to debut and kickstart their
careers. Collectors and gallerists alike often use the fair to scout new talent. Basel is also a city of museums, with significant permanent collections and an engaging roster of exhibitions. As the city has become the centre of Swiss cultural and architectural discourse, the Schweizerisches Architekturmuseum (SAM) holds an important place within the city. As one of the most important European architectural centres, Basel has an abundance of outstanding classic modernist structures. Housed in the Kunsthalle Basel, SAM specialises in temporary exhibitions that centre around Swiss and international architecture, acting as a counterpoint to the Kunsthalle’s avant-garde contemporary art programme. Nearby, the newly completed additional exhibition space of the Kunstmuseum Basel flashes moving image and text from its external wall via a massive frieze. The museum has one of the largest and oldest collections in Europe and the new space, designed by Christ and Gantenbein, extends its available floor space while again adding to the city’s unique architectural story. Public transport, not surprisingly, runs like clockwork and it is well worth venturing beyond the inner city – even day trips to experience the natural beauty of the Swiss Jura or the culinary delights from the French region of Alsace are all
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possible. Those on the cultural trail are equally rewarded. Positioned over the border and just beyond the city limits in the German town of Weil am Rhein, the iconic white and stark Deconstructivist Frank Gehry designed Vitra Design Museum is a treasure trove of form and function. Dedicated to the presentation and research of design that includes a focus on architecture and furniture, the museum presents temporary exhibitions spotlighting renowned designers and innovative technologies. The Beyeler Foundation is built from the collection of Hildy and Ernst Beyeler – Ernst being a co-founder of Art Basel. Situated just back over the border, the foundation is set within the stunning natural surrounds of the Villa Berower estate with its rolling pastures and natural surrounds. Designed by the Italian architect Renzo Piano, the Foundation’s permanent collection includes celebrated modern masters such as Claude Monet and Vincent van Gogh exhibited alongside contemporary masters and rare tribal art pieces from Africa and Oceania. Mirroring the river that flows through its heart, Basel has remained a constant conduit of exchange from pre-history to the modern era. It is still a city flowing with ideas, a fountainhead of contemporary design, architecture and, every June, a global destination for culture vultures. Art and architecture are as much a part of the vernacular as the locally spoken variant of German or neighbouring French. With one foot of daily life firmly planted in its rich history and the other testing the waters of innovation, you’re left with the sense of a conscientious city. A beautifully polished Swiss jewel astride the Rhine.
Emirates serves two destinations in Switzerland – Zurich and Geneva. There are two flights a day to Zurich, both operated by the A380; and two flights a day to Geneva, with both flights operated by the Boeing 777-300ER.
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THE REAL MAGICAL MYSTERY TOUR The Beatles’ journey to India came at a time when, as band they were on top of the world, but as individuals they were in search of answers. As their Rishikesh ashram is reopened to the public, we look at six weeks that changed their lives... Words: Chris Anderson Images: Pattie Boyd, Paul Saltzman
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ocated in the north of India, at the foothills of the Himalayas and roughly five hours by car from Delhi, lies the city of Rishikesh. For years it has lived up to its reputation as the ‘Yoga Capital of the World’, with enthusiasts finding it the ideal spot for reflection and meditation due to its lush forests, clifftop views and the sacred Ganges River flowing below. Ancient temples line the banks, adding to the serene, spiritual environment, with Hindus declaring it a holy domain. In February 1968, this scene was enough to attract The Beatles, then the biggest band in the world and who, at the time, were in dire need of direction.The band made their way to Rishikesh and stopped for up to six weeks as guests of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, an Indian spiritual leader who was coming to prominence thanks to a series of tours and lectures. In those early months of the year, he took the band under his wing and taught them transcendental meditation from within the confines of his ashram, far away from the glare of the media spotlight and an obsessed public.
Their most recent album, Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band, while critically acclaimed, had included some questionable creative choices The band’s time in India became a period of intense creativity – they wrote 48 songs, including much of the legendary White Album, there – and it’s currently enjoying renewed interest, with the ashram site now officially revamped and reopened to the public after closure for more than three decades. It’s the basis of a summer exhibition at The Beatles Story in Liverpool (the world’s largest permanent Beatles exhibition) and the continued efforts of Paul Saltzman, a two-time Emmy Award-winning Canadian film director who was there at the same time as the band. He has published a book of photos from his visit and organises tours of India, which include Rishikesh. How The Beatles came to be at the ashram, and the source of their interest in Indian culture in general, is explained to a degree in George, Eric And Me: Intimate Photographs Taken By Pattie Boyd, a new collection being shown at The Beatles Story this summer. Boyd, a former model, was married to George Harrison from 1966 to 1977 and visited India with him, along with the other band members’ wives and a small entourage. Images taken at the ashram form part of the display, have special meaning for Boyd as it was she who introduced the band to the Maharishi in 1967, taking them to a talk in London, which then led to them attending a retreat with him in Wales. George | 58 |
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Their time at the ashram was one of The Beatles’ most creative, with more than 40 songs written
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While the band spent six weeks at the ashram, Paul and John would ultimately leave under a cloud
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was already developing an interest in Indian music – a sitar lying around on the set of the Beatles movie Help! saw to that, followed by lessons with musician Ravi Shankar. “Something was missing from our lives,” explains Boyd in her 2008 autobiography Wonderful Tonight, named after the song written for her by Eric Clapton, her husband from 1979 to 1989. With George’s interest as her starting point, Boyd had soon involved the rest of the group. It proved to be a welcome change of pace. In 1967, the band had reached the peak of their fame, but a sense of complacency was creeping in – their most recent album, Sgt Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band, while critically acclaimed, had included some questionable creative choices, such as John Lennon basing the lyrics of one song on a circus poster (Being For The Benefit Of Mr Kite), and
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another on a corn flakes commercial (Good Morning, Good Morning). While the band’s split was still two years away, by the time they arrived in India, they had all began to question their own individual journey. In his book, The Beatles In India, Saltzman describes a conversation he had with George Harrison in his small meditation room at the ashram, in which outlined his frustrations. “Like, we’re the Beatles after all, aren’t we?” Harrison told him. “We have all the money you could ever dream of. We have all the fame you could ever wish for. But it isn’t love. It isn’t health. It isn’t peace inside, is it?” Saltzman’s own story is just as intriguing. Originally in India for work, he received a letter from his girlfriend informing him she was moving on, leaving him. Devastated, he attended a lecture by the Maharishi in Delhi and saw his teachings as a way to help him heal. He went to the ashram in Rishikesh, but was told at the gates that entry would be impossible due to the Beatles’ visit. Saltzman expressed his emotional pain and asked if he could wait, sleeping in an old canvas tent left opposite. Over the next eight days, he was brought simple vegetarian meals and, after impressing with his dedication, he was eventually allowed inside. “I was taught meditation and it was a miracle for the heartbreak,” he says. The property is described by Saltzman as being “on a small plateau among wooded hills”. A narrow dirt road ran front-to-back, and there were six whitewashed bungalows housing five or six double rooms each, plus vegetable and flower gardens. Peacocks lived in the surrounding woods and occasionally wandered into the site.
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We have all the money you could ever dream of. We have all the fame you could ever wish for. But it isn’t love. It isn’t health. It isn’t peace inside, is it? This was still early into The Beatles’ stay, with all four members present. Saltzman says days were spent meditating, attending meetings with the Maharishi, eating vegetarian food at a long table by the cliff edge and writing music. One afternoon, he describes hearing the voices of Lennon and McCartney from their bungalow steps, playing Michelle, All You Need Is Love and Eleanor Rigby on acoustic guitars. He watched and took photos, and the pair did not mind at all. It’s fair to say that this could well have been the most high-profile ashram in the business. Actress Mia Farrow and her sister, Prudence, were there too, along with other musicians – including Donovan and Mike Love of the Beach Boys. Prudence in particular embraced
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meditation and would spend days in her bungalow, missing meals and not even venturing outside. Eventually, John picked up his guitar and began singing to her through the door, “Dear Prudence, won’t you come out to play?”The song became another to feature on the White Album. Saltzman spent a week inside the ashram before returning to Delhi with Ringo Starr.The drummer had been in India for just 11 days, but told Saltzman his wife was missing their children.There could have been another reason – he apparently arrived with two suitcases, one of which contained tins of baked beans, as he had been worried about the food. Paul left after a month, and John and George after six weeks, following a rumoured disagreement with the Maharishi. The ashram remains an important location for Beatles fans, however. After closing and its lease expiring, the site was handed back to the local forest department and, until recently, was an out of bounds area within Rajaji National Park. But the band’s devotees continued to sneak inside, drawing and writing on the old bungalow walls.Visitors can now explore the site as part of their entrance fee to the park. Plans for guided tours, nature walks, a cafeteria and a museum are also in the works. And with permission, it’s still possible to express your admiration for the band and their music on the walls – inspiring people today just as they did all those years ago. George, Eric And Me: Intimate Photographs Taken By Pattie Boyd is at The Beatles Story in Liverpool this summer. To order Paul Saltzman’s book and photographs, and learn about his next tour to India in September, where you’ll visit the ashrasm, visit thebeatlesinindia.com
Emirates serves nine destinations in India – Delhi, Mumbai, Cochin, Hyderabad, Thiruvananthapuram, Kolkata, Chennai, Ahmedabad, and Bengaluru.
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Emirates award-winning entertainment system, ice, is ready for summer with more blockbuster entertainment than ever before. This June and July on ice Digital Widescreen you can enjoy more than 2,500 channels of entertainment in more than 37 languages. This month, the first live televisionequipped A380 joins the fleet, while ice
TV Live is also now available on over 90 Emirates Boeing 777s with additional aircraft fitted with the service each month. Check out the best live news stations as well as Sport 24, which airs top international sporting events live such as Formula 1, tennis tournaments, and from June 10 to July 10, football fans can catch all the action from Euro 2016.
If it’s movies you’re after, then you’ll have access to over 500 titles, including the latest Hollywood blockbusters and family hits The Jungle Book, Batman v Superman: Dawn of Justice, Zootropolis, The Good Dinosaur and more than 50 Disney classics. Plus more blockbuster box sets featuring Divergent, Twilight and The Hunger Games. There are 50 Arabic movies to enjoy, including The Idol, the amazing true story of Mohammed Assaf, who went from wedding singer in Gaza to Arab Idol winner in 2013. You’ll also find that classic Arabic music is back, featuring iconic artists such as Fairouz. Meanwhile, world cinema is packed with more than 100 movies from India, 50 from Europe, over 80 from Asia, plus new movies from Africa and Latin America. And with more than 300 TV channels, comedy, documentaries and drama box sets are readily available, as well as more than 30 TV channels for kids including Cartoon Network, CBeebies, Disney Junior and Nickelodeon. Also check out over 1600 music and radio channels – including the introduction of Beatport – the world’s largest supplier of electronic dance music – which will feature new mixes from some of the world’s biggest artists. Or simply kick back and enjoy one of 100 games.
a record year For the eMIrateS GroUP The Emirates Group has achieved record results in the 2015-16 financial year, its 28th consecutive year of profit and expansion. Both Emirates and dnata reached new capacity and profit milestones, as the Group continues to expand its global footprint, and strengthen its business through strategic investments. Emirates Group posted an unprecedented AED 8.2 billion (US $2.2 billion) profit for the financial year, up 50% from last year. His Highness (H.H.) Sheikh Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief Executive, Emirates Airline and Group, said the Group’s performance is, “testament to the success of our business model and strategies”.
The Group’s employee base across its more than 80 subsidiaries and companies also increased, by 13 per cent, to over 95,000-strong representing over 160 different nationalities. | 66 |
The full 2015-16 Annual Repor t of the Emirates Group – comprising Emirates, dnata and their subsidiaries – is available at: theemiratesgroup.com/annualreport
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more flights to CAPe toWN ANd bANgkok
Thanks to growing passenger demand, Emirates is introducing a seventh daily service between Dubai and Bangkok from July 1, and a third daily service between Dubai and Cape Town from July 4. The additional service to the Thai capital is operated by a Boeing 777-300ER, joining four daily A380 and two daily 777 flights. Meanwhile, the current codeshare cooperation between Emirates and South African Airways on flights between Dubai and South Africa will also be extended to include an additional Cape Town flight,
giving greater access to SAA’s customers on Emirates’ global network. The added frequency will also provide up to 23 tonnes of cargo capacity on the aircraft per flight, giving businesses and traders opportunities for increased imports and exports. Emirates first launched services to South Africa 20 years ago, and in addition to Cape Town, the airline also operates four daily flights between Dubai and Johannesburg, and a daily flight between Dubai and Durban.
NeW CodeshAre exPANsioN ANd frequeNt flyer PArtNershiP
Emirates has enhanced its codeshare agreement with Malaysia Airlines, unveiling new routes and frequent flyer benefits. The new routes cover 15 key cities: Langkawi, Penang, Johor Bahru, Kuching, Miri, Bintulu, Sibu, Kota Kinabalu, Sandakan, Tawau, Labuan, Alor Setar, Kota Bharu, Kuantan and Kuala Terengganu. Emirates
Skywards members and Malaysia Airline’s Enrich members will be able to accrue and redeem miles on all international and domestic flights operated by both airlines. On all routes covered in the codeshare, passengers will also enjoy generous baggage allowance in all cabins – 30kg for Economy Class, 40kg for Business Class and 50kg for First Class. Emirates has also signed an agreement with Air Mauritius to par tner their respective frequent flyer programmes. Air Mauritius Kestrelflyer, and Emirates Skywards members will be able to accrue and redeem benefits. Both Kestrelflyer and Emirates Skywards members will now earn Miles when they fly on either Air Mauritius or Emirates. Kestrelflyer gold card members will also have access to the Emirates Business Class lounge in Dubai. | 68 |
iNCreAsed free bAggAge AlloWANCe from AfriCA
Emirates has increased its free baggage allowance for customers travelling on all its flights originating from destinations across Africa. All Emirates customers travelling in any of the airline’s cabin classes on outbound African flights will benefit from the increase in free baggage allowance based on the piece concept (individual piece of luggage). Economy Class customers will get a new baggage allowance of two bags weighing up to 23kg each, taking the current weight allowance from 30kg to 46kg, while Business Class increases to two bags of 32kg each, taking the current 40kg to 64kg. First Class customers will get a baggage allowance of two bags weighing up to 32 kg each, up from the current 50 kg to 64kg. In addition, infants will be entitled one piece of luggage up to 23kg. The baggage allowance will be applicable for all return Emirates’ flights commencing from Algeria, Angola, Ivory Coast, Egypt, Ethiopia, Ghana, Kenya, Morocco, Mauritius, Nigeria, Senegal, Seychelles, South Africa, Sudan, Tanzania, Tunisia, Uganda, Zambia and Zimbabwe to Emirates’ network. Irrespective of the point of sale, the piece concept will apply for the entire journey. This baggage policy is for tickets issued on/after April 15, 2016 and is for travel originating in Africa
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Border patrol An agreement that saves thousands of animals every year, CITES could well be the most important tool in the battle against the illegal wildlife trade. Emirates has joined the fight too. Learn more on channel 1502 on ice Digital Widescreen
Elephants, along with rhinos, tigers, and pangolins will be a topic of discussion at September's 17th CITES Conference of the Parties
The world’s largest international wildlife conservation agreement, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES) came into being in 1975 in response to concerns that many species were becoming endangered because of international trade. Annually, international wildlife trade is estimated to be worth billions of dollars and to include hundreds of millions of plant and animal specimens. The trade is diverse, ranging from live animals and plants to a vast array of wildlife products derived from them, including food products, exotic leather goods, wooden musical instruments, timber, tourist curios and medicines. Levels of exploitation of some animal and plant species are high and the trade in them, together with other factors, such as habitat loss, is capable of heavily depleting their populations and even bringing some species close to extinction. Many wildlife species in trade are not endangered, but the existence of an agreement to ensure the sustainability of the trade is important in order to safeguard these resources for the future. The CITES agreement regulates international trade in wildlife by way of three appendices which grade various species on their vulnerability and how, if it all, they can be internationally
traded. Species can also be included at the request of a country, which then needs the cooperation of other countries to help prevent illegal exploitation. Since the Convention began, more than 30,000 species of animals and plants have been listed on its appendices, from tigers and elephants to mahogany and orchids. Emirates bans wildlife trophy shipments, and is collaborating with international organisations to train and better equip its ground and cargo staff to detect and deal with illegal wildlife products in transit. cites.org
conferences of tHe parties Every three years, representatives from the CITES participating countries meet to discuss a variety of issues; how to best implement the agreement, species that should be included, and many other proposals. This is where the big decisions are made. The 17th meeting will take place in Johannesburg from September 24 to October 5, with elephants, tigers, rhinos and pangolins set to be just some of the many topics for discussion.
How you can Help Consumers can contribute in a big way, by boycotting products made of these endangered animals and discouraging others from doing so. You can also get updates by liking CITES and United for Wildlife on Facebook For more on wildlife and conservation, visit the Wildlife TV channels 1245 to 1255 on ice Digital Widescreen | 70 |
This image is for advertising purposes. EQ46549-29/09/2016
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Play the arsenal way Each year, 500 youngsters play football under the tutelage of the Emirates-founded Arsenal Soccer School Dubai. Head Coach, and ex-Arsenal midfielder, Ian Selley explains why it’s such a great opportunity for young players in the region Words: matt mostyn
emirates’ passion for sport doesn’t simply cover sponsorship deals with the world’s biggest football clubs. the airline is also proud to hold the naming rights to arsenal’s home ground, emirates stadium, a state-of-the-art 60,000-seat arena in north London – and as part of the agreement, it has also helped develop the arsenal soccer school dubai. Soccer School Dubai, which began in 2009, is an opportunity for around 500 children each year to learn how to ‘play the Arsenal way’, during three ten week courses that run during Dubai’s school terms. Catering to young players aged between five and 20, the focus is on nurturing talent and helping kids to develop greater confidence and reach their full potential. Just as importantly, it’s a chance for Dubai’s melting pot of school-age youngsters to make new friends and have fun on pitch. Based at The Sevens Stadium, Dubai's leading spor ts facility, students train on state-of-the ar t pitches under the watchful eye of the school's Head Coach, ex-Arsenal midfielder Ian Selley. Making his debut for the club in 1992 Selley chalked up a total of 60 appearances, winning the FA Cup, League Cup and European Cup Winners Cup in 1994/95, before spells at Southend, Fulham and Wimbledon.
Each season, the school’s students are lucky enough to meet some of their Arsenal heroes, when they visit to share their footballing knowledge and demonstrate their skills. For Selley, it’s one of the points of difference that makes Dubai’s Arsenal Soccer School so special. “Thanks to our close ties to the club, we get at least three Arsenal first team players to come over during a season – which obviously, no other soccer school can do. For a young kid playing with us, it’s a major highlight for them to spend one-to-one time with top players like Danny Welbeck, Thierry Henry and most recently Mesut Ozil.” With the regular staging of competitive matches and tournaments against other schools in the region, students get to experience different styles of football. And as Selley explains, during term-time, students spend time training, learning new technical skills, and studying the individual techniques of some of their heroes – a highly effective method for helping them develop. “We’ll choose an Arsenal first team player to focus on and study, then the kids get to watch that player on TV and see how he plays, which helps them to learn a lot more quickly.” The school encourages students to focus, and to really push themselves. As Selley puts it, “Because we’re tied to Arsenal, we
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We’ll choose an Arsenal player to study, and the kids will watch that player on TV and see how he plays… it helps them learn quickly
have high standards – and so we try to offer more of a ‘club’ feel, rather than being just another casual soccer school.” But it’s not all about hard work. Thanks to the UAE’s incredibly diverse population, Soccer School Dubai is a highly sociable environment, where kids from all background and walks of life can integrate and make new friends. “We’ve got kids from all over the place. It’s a great opportunity for them to mix together – and even though many of the new ones can be quiet at first, usually within three or four weeks, they settle in, make friends and gradually get noisier!”
The School attracts plenty of social players, keen to learn the basics – but as Selley explains, it also offers something extra for kids who aren’t brand new to football. “Our Development Squad helps to raise the standard of play among the more gifted players. The squad selects small groups to participate in a free session – and those kids will then play for the local leagues, as representatives of the schools against other academies. We encourage the kids to work as hard as they can to get selected.” For a lucky few, it doesn’t end there: “Right now we have about six players that we’re keeping an eye on, and have spoken to Arsenal about. At age seven to ten, they’re pretty young at the moment, but they could quite easily compete with the boys in our UK academy,” Selley continues. And in a region where advancement opportunities for gifted players aren’t easy to come by, it makes Soccer School Dubai’s work all the more important. “It can be tough for the kids in Dubai who are really good, because there’s nowhere really for them to go within the UAE. The local teams have spots for perhaps two or three players – but they’re usually given to established Premiership players rather than new talent.” Working under Arsène Wenger, who’s renowned for nurturing young talent, it’s no surprise that youth development is such a key driver for Selley. “What’s most rewarding for me is to see the players improve,” he says. “Working with social players, who often can’t even kick a ball five yards when they first come to us, but within just a few weeks they’re controlling the ball, they’re more confident and they’ve improved 100 per cent... that’s great to see. Really, I don’t actually class what I do as work, because it’s so enjoyable going in and helping the kids to work hard, have a good time, and grow.” To find out more about Arsenal Soccer School Dubai, visit playthearsenalway.com/dubai
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D E S T I N A T I O N
LOS ANGELES Emirates begins a second daily service to Los Angeles on July 1. With so much to do, it's little wonder the route is proving so popular. Enjoy our guide to the city of angels Los Angeles is an intoxicating mix of Hollywood glamour, vibrant colour-infused glee and a shot of Bohemian culture. The result is a holiday destination like no other. For those that head to LA dreaming of making it big in the movies, the odds are stacked against them, but for those that yearn for exclusive shopping, magical family experiences or walks along the iconic vendor-packed Venice Boardwalk, their dreams become reality. Whether brunching at a celebrity chef ’s latest venture or grabbing street food from one of the infamous food trucks, dining
and being seen dining is all part of the experience. And as the sun sets over the boulevards, the scene switches gear, attracting the bold and the beautiful to the best parties in town. For families, the range of hotels means a night of rejuvenation is easily achieved before heading to tackle the thrill of Universal Studios, Magic Mountain or Disneyland the following day. And when it’s time to take a breath, head to the hills to meditate on the wonderful eccentricities of the city below or swim with the dolphins in the crystal waters off County Line Beach.
EAT
STAY
DO
TROIS MEC Buy a ticket online and prepare for a modern French-influenced gastronomy experience, courtesy of Ludo Lefebvre. Unpretentious, noisy and a whole heap of fun, the taster menus are sure to surprise and delight even the most discerning of food lovers. troismec.com
CANDY CANE INN Anaheim is the place to stay if you plan on a Disney-focused trip to LA. This sweetly-named inn couldn’t be more convenient, even providing a shuttle bus to the park entrance for those who don’t want to walk. Breakfast is included making it a great option for families on the go. candycaneinn.net
ENJOY THE MAGIC OF DISNEYLAND Disneyland is not just for the kids, there is something for everyone, whether it’s worldclass enter tainment, thrilling roller coasters or shopping for mementoes. Top restaurants, hotels and spas are also abundant and you might just spot Mickey and his friends. disneyland.disney.go.com
POLO LOUNGE AT THE BEVERLY HILLS HOTEL Sunshine, glamour and a sprinkling of celebrity spotting makes the Polo Lounge the perfect outdoor dining experience in LA. Come to eat, but be sure to hang around for cocktails. dorchestercollection.com
CASA DEL MAR With shopping, dining and entertainment on its doorstep Santa Monica isn’t the budget option, but it is the place to be by the water. Casa Del Mar is a luxury option in terms of facilities and quality service. Sat right on the beach, the Pacific views are the icing on the cake. hotelcasadelmar.com
SHOP ON RODEO DRIVE Have your Pretty Woman moment on the most exclusive of boulevards. Chic shopping is the order of the day, but there are plenty of high-end cafes and restaurants to rest and refuel for even the most hard-core shopaholic. rodeodrive-bh.com
CHATEAU MARMONT For a flavour of Hollywood unlike any other, this Sunset Boulevard castle’s walls could tell tales of unparalleled intrigue and scandal if they could talk. While it may be the scene of the demise of John Belushi, old cinematic style still abounds at this iconic hotel. chateaumarmont.com
EXPLORE VENICE BEACH Walking along Venice Beach will see iconic images of Muscle Beach, bohemian characters and a host of other eccentricities come to life. Street vendors and performers stretch as far as the eye can see, leaving an impression that will last a lifetime. venicebeach.com
KOGI BBQ TRUCK One of the first out there pioneering the food truck scene in LA, Kogi has developed a Korean-inspired menu that encompasses short rib beef tacos, Pacman burgers, tofu burritos and sweet chili chicken quesadilla. Check out the website for route times. kogibbq.com
EMIRATES STAFF TIPS Alfredo Limon Cargo Supervisor
SEE THE GAME
“Try and catch an LA Dodgers game during the baseball season – it runs from April to September.”
Anna Holm Brown Senior Cargo Agent
GO CAR CRAZY
“I love the Petersen Automotive Museum. It's got interactive exhibits, early 20th century classics, and futuristic concept cars.”
The new service, flight EK 217, will depart Dubai at 3.00pm and arrive in Los Angeles at 8.00pm The return flight, EK 218, will depart Los Angeles at 10.30pm and arrive in Dubai approximately 16 hours later at 1.30am.
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C O M F O R T
COMFORT IN THE AIR To help you arrive at your destination feeling relaxed and refreshed, Emirates has developed this collection of helpful travel tips. Regardless of whether you need to rejuvenate for your holiday or be effective at achieving your goals on a business trip, these simple tips will help you enjoy your journey and time on board with Emirates today.
SMART TRAVELLER
DRINK PLENTY OF WATER Rehydrate with water or juices frequently. Drink tea and coffee in moderation.
TRAVEL LIGHTLY
WEAR GLASSES
Carry only the essential items that you will need during your flight.
Cabin air is drier than normal, therefore swap your contact lenses for glasses.
BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a respiratory or cardiovascular condition. Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations or special medications? Get a good night’s rest before the flight. Eat lightly and sensibly.
AT THE AIRPORT
USE SKIN MOISTURISER Apply a good quality moisturiser to ensure your skin doesn’t dry out.
KEEP MOVING Exercise your lower legs and calf muscles. This encourages blood flow.
DURING THE FLIGHT
Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in. Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the flight as this can place the body under considerable stress. Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.
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Chewing and swallowing will help equalise your ear pressure during ascent and descent. Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy. Get as comfortable as possible when resting and turn frequently. Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.
MAKE YOURSELF COMFORTABLE Loosen clothing, remove jacket and avoid anything pressing against your body.
WHEN YOU ARRIVE Try some light exercise, or read if you can’t sleep after arrival.
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Guide to us customs & immiGration Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the United States today, this simple guide to completing the US customs form will help to ensure that your journey is as hassle free as possible.
CUSToMS DECLARATIoN FoRM All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.
ElEctronic SyStEm for travEl authoriSation (ESta) If you are an international traveller wishing to enter the United States under the Visa Waiver Programme, You must apply for electronic authorisation (ESTA) up to 72 hours prior to your departure. ESta factS: Children and infants require an individual ESTA. The online ESTA system will inform you whether your application has been authorised, not authorised or if authorisation is pending. A successful ESTA application is valid for two years, however this may be revoked or will expire along with your passport. apply onlinE at www.cbp.gov/ESta nationalitiES EligiblE for thE viSa waivEr*: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco, The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom** * SubjEct to changE ** only britiSh citizEnS qualify undEr thE viSa waivEr programmE. | 80 |
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Cut the queue at JFK with quiCK ConneCt If you’re connecting through New York JFK, you can avoid long waiting times in US immigration and queues for connecting flights with the Quick Connect service. US Customs and Border Protection Agency created the special service for passengers who have a connecting flight within three hours of arrival at New York JFK.
Follow theSe StePS:
1
2
3
4
have your boarding card or ticket for your connecting flight ready for the ground staff as you exit.
You’ll be given a Quick Connect card. Continue to the Quick Connect queue in the Arrivals hall.
After passport clearance, claim your baggage and clear US customs, regardless of your final destination.
If your bag is tagged to your final destination, hand it to emirates staff at the transfer counter for your onward flight.
quarantine in australia Australia has strict biosecurity laws, so when you arrive you’ll need to declare certain food, plant or animal items on your Incoming Passenger Card. You also need to declare equipment or shoes used in rivers and lakes or with soil attached. All aircraft food must be left on board. Please take particular care when you complete your Incoming Passenger Card – it's a legal document and false declarations may result in a penalty.
quarantine in Japan Japan has strict rules around exposure to livestock and bringing in livestock items. You will need to go to the Animal Quarantine Counter if: • you have recently been to a livestock farm • are bringing livestock products into Japan • your visit to Japan will involve contact with livestock the counter is in the baggage claim area. If you’re bringing meat and livestock products into Japan without an import certificate, you must see the animal quarantine officer. | 81 |
U A E
S M A R T
G A T E
BE SMART! USE UAE SMART GATE AT DUBAI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES
UAE
Andorra
Australia
Austria
Bahrain
Belgium
Brunei
Canada
Denmark
Finland
France
Germany
Greece
Iceland
Ireland
Italy
Japan
Kuwait
Liechtenstein
Luxembourg
Malaysia
Monaco
Netherlands
New Zealand
Norway
Oman
Portugal
Qatar
San Marino
Saudi Arabia
Singapore
South Korea
Spain
Sweden
Switzerland
*UK
USA
GO THROUGH IMMIGRATION IN SECONDS AND GET YOUR VISIT TO DUBAI OFF TO A FLYING START Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International airport by using UAE Smart Gate. If you hold a machine-readable passport or E-Gate card you can check in and out of the airport within seconds. Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International airport.
USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY
1
Have your E-Gate card or machinereadable passport ready to be scanned
2
Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card into the E-Gate slot
OK!
3
Go through the open gate, stand in the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim
*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)
REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY To register, just follow the above process and then spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer. That’s it! Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you landed. | 82 |
UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY:
• Machine-readable passports from the above countries • E-Gate cards
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We are a premium central purchasing group for corporate customers : multinationals, NGOs, mining operators, oil, forest, construction industry, etc. At your service : our team is fluent in Arabic, English, French, Farsi, Hausa, Hindi, Igbo, Italian, Kabyle-Amajil, Malayalam, Nepali, Portuguese, Russian, Spanish, Swahili, Tagalog, Turkish, Urdu, Yoruba,...
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AUTOREDO FZE | +971 4 808 27 00 | Jebel Ali Free Zone, Dubai (UAE) | www.autoredo.ae | emirates@autoredo.com
R O U T E
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M A P
NEW ROUTES: Yangon and Hanoi: daily service starts August 3
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M A P
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M A P
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EMIRATES FLEET
Our fleet of 255 aircraft includes 240 passenger aircraft and 15 SkyCargo aircraft
BOEING 777-300ER This month:
up to
1 arriving
2500+ 70% 83 (70%) out of 118 Boeing 777-300ERs are now equipped with Live Television, Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services. More are being upgraded each month.
118 in fleet. Up to 354-442 passengers. Range of 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m
BOEING 777-300 850+
12 in fleet. Up to 364 passengers. Range of 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m
BOEING 777-200LR 2500+ 70% 7 (70%) out of 10 Boeing 777-200LRs are now equipped with Live Television, Wi-Fi, Mobile Phone and Data Roaming services. More are being upgraded each month.
10 in fleet. Up to 266 passengers. Range of 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m
BOEING 777-200ER
This month:
850+
5 in fleet. Up to 274 passengers. Range of 14,310km. L 63.7m x W 60.9m
EMIRATES SKYCARGO
BOEING 777F
The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.
13 in fleet. Range of 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet | 88 |
1 retiring
CONNECTIVITY AND ENTERTAINMENT SERVICES AVAILABLE
# Live Television
Wi-Fi
Mobile Phone GSM
This month:
Data Roaming GPRS
2 arriving
Channels of inflight entertainment
AIRBUS A380-800 2500+
Starting this month our first Live TV-equipped A380 joins the fleet.
81 in fleet. Up to 489-615 passengers. Range of 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m
AIRBUS A340-300 100+
850+
Economy Class First Class and Business Class
4 in fleet. Up to 267 passengers. Range of 13,350km. L 63.6m x W 60.3m
AIRBUS A330-200 This month:
1 retiring
100+
850+
Economy Class First Class and Business Class
9 in fleet. Up to 237-278 passengers. Range of 12,200km. L 58.8m x W 60.3m
AIRBUS A319 550+
1 in fleet. Up to 19 passengers. Range of 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m
The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel. Further information at emirates-executive.com
EMIRATES SKYCARGO
BOEING 747 ERF This aircraft is capable of carrying up to 117 tonnes. The deck-side cargo door, with a height of approximately three metres, allows the uplift of oversized shipments that cannot be accommodated in the belly-hold of passenger aircraft. The nose door allows the carriage of long pieces.
2 in fleet. Range of 9,204km. L 70.6m x W 64.4m Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press | 89 |
K N O W L E D G E
DESTINATION How a city works. This month: Beijing
OH NO...
It’s commonly said that the Great Wall Of China can be seen from space.This myth was debunked by Chinese astronaut Yang Liwei.
The Forbidden City is the 14th most visited tourist destination in the world, attracting more than 15 million people in 2015.
Since the Beijing Olympics in 2008, more than 4,000 babies in China have been named ‘Aoyun’, or ‘Olympics.’
China National Space Administration
World Tourism Organization
Chinese Public Security Bureau
WORLD’S LARGEST CITIES BARGRAPH 1
2
3
4
5
Shanghai 24,256,800
Beijing 21,516,000
Sao Paulo 21,292,893
Karachi 21,000,000
Delhi 16,787,941
ILLUSTRATIONS BY RALPH MANCAO
World Urbanization Prospects
Beijing’s most popular surname is Wang, with an estimated 11 per cent of the city sharing the name.
Pigeon racing is huge in Beijing, with a local man paying US$200,000 for a thoroughbred, setting a new record.
Congestion is so bad that people rent “traffic jam” busters to wait in their cars while they go to their meeting on bike.
Chinese Public Security Bureau
The Wall Street Journal
Boston Globe And Mail
THIS IS WHERE CHINA’S MILLIONAIRES LIVE Beijing 192,000
Shanghai 159,000
Shenzhen 50,400 Bloomberg.com
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Guangzhou 45,900
Hangzhou 34,300