DE C E MBE R 2 0 16 ®
PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE
Issue N o 275
PARIS - ENGLISH EDITION
®
PARIS MONTHLY CIT YGUIDE
Celebrating
CHRISTMAS IN PARIS
DECEMBER 2016/#275
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L’art de la joaillerie depuis 1780 H I G H J E W E L L E R Y C O L L EC T I O N
JOSÉPH I N E
14 rue de Berri 75008 - Paris Tél : +33(0)1 45 62 62 45 www.elysees-horlogerie.com
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December PERSONALISE YOUR PARIS AT WHERETRAVELER.COM
®
10
Hot Dates
14
Champagne Country
20
PARIS | CONTENTS
The guide 24 SHOPPING
This month’s calendar of must-see events
Be inspired by our gift guide for your Christmas shopping 68 ARTS & ATTRACTIONS
Visit the houses and sample their vintages this festive season
This month’s round-up of exhibitions and attractions
Memories in Light: The Art and Craft of Stained Glass
Our selection of the month’s finest restaurants
78 DINING
Discover the art that renders glass a masterpiece
94 ENTERTAINMENT
This month’s best events and bars 102 NAVIGATE
Your guide to getting around the city with maps and transport listings DE C E MBE R 2 0 16 Issue N o 275
®
PA R IS M O N T H LY C I T YGU I DE
PARIS - ENGLISH EDITION
®
PARIS MONTHLY CIT YGUIDE
Celebrating
CHRISTMAS IN PARIS
DECEMBER 2016/#275
FA SHION • ARTS & AT TR AC TIONS • DINING • ENTERTAINMENT • M APS WP DEC 2016 COVER.indd 3
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ON THE COVER
La Grande Roue photo © istock
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Welcome to Paris
THE TEAM | WHERE PARIS
35 rue des Mathurins 75008 Paris, France Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 56 paris@wheremagazine.com www.wherepariseditions.com PUBLISHER AND GENERAL MANAGER
A LETTER FROM THE MAYOR
Pascal Tranchant* Tel: +33 (0)1 43 12 56 42
Paris, the City of Light, adorns itself in its finest of finery to celebrate the holiday season. The Champs-Elysées, the department stores, the shopkeepers and the city’s residents engage in a competition of creativity to offer visitors an unforgettable stay.
GROUP ART DIRECTOR Tim Benton
Illuminated Paris continues to retain deep inside a genuine concern for the environment. Our capital’s commitment in this domain aims to be exemplary evidenced by the historic Paris Agreement on climate change adopted by all of the nations of the world during the COP21. Paris is also a city where the arts come alive, where all cultures meet up and encounter one another. This month the cinema is notably being showcased with the exhibition De Méliès à la 3D at La Cinémathèque Française as are comic strips at the exceptional show, Hergé, at the Grand Palais. The Parisian identity is founded on values of universality, solidarity and tolerance. It is to celebrate these values that our city is a candidate for the 2024 Olympic Games. Our project integrates a number of emblematic monuments and heritage sites like the Eiffel Tower, the Invalides and the Grand Palais. This project has received wide support from the public. It is made up of a fine collective challenge and offers an opportunity to demonstrate our savoir-faire and our ambitions in terms of sustainable development, education, diversity and citizenship. We are very happy to welcome you to Paris and have you discover the splendours of this magical city. I wish to each and every one of you an excellent holiday season.
EDITOR Sandra Iskander* SENIOR DESIGNER Grant Pearce PRODUCTION MANAGER/LONDON Melanie Needham SENIOR PRODUCTION ASSISTANT & RETOUCHER David Weeks CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Alexander Lobrano, Patricia Valicenti*, Kyra Brenzinger DESIGNER AND PRODUCTION MANAGER Céline Février* GRAPHIC DESIGN MANAGER Laura Zaharia* SHOPPING MAPS ILLUSTRATOR Aline Zalko SALES DIRECTOR Jean-Louis Roux-Fouillet
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Plan ahead for your next visit to Paris, subscribe to Where® Magazine : Annual 12 issues €84 (France), €96 Europe, €132 (outside Europe). Contact : Anne-Marie Dancy Tel : +33 (0)1 43 12 56 41 E-mail : annemarie.dancy@wheremagazine.com Edité par Where Paris SNC. Société en nom collectif constituée le 26 mai 1993 au capital de €1.725.795. Durée 99 ans. 391 247 251 RCS PARIS. Représentant légal: Chris Manning. Tirage: 51,000 (APCM OJD 2015). N° de ISSN: 1241-8625. Dépôt légal: decembre 2016. Reproduction interdite sauf accord préalable. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.
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CARTIER - BAUME & MERCIER - BLANCPAIN - BOUCHERON - BREGUET - BREITLING CHAUMET - CHOPARD - CVSTOS - DE GRISOGONO - DIOR - FRANK MULLER - GLASHÃœTTE HARRY WINSTON - IWC - JAEGER-LECOULTRE - LONGINES - MONTBLANC - OMEGA PANERAI - PIAGET - POIRAY - TAG HEUER - VACHERON CONSTANTIN
Tel: +33 (0)1 45 62 62 45 www.elysees-horlogerie.com
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December
HOT DATES Discover the best of December in Paris
Santa’s Days off All Month See Santa like you’ve never seen him before at Bercy Village where the photo exhibition, Des Nouvelles du Père Noël, showcases Florence Levillain’s photos of the jolly man. The free exhibition held in the covered passages of the outdoor shopping destination sees Santa during the rest of the year, ironing his clothes, tobogganing and even doing yoga. If you’ve ever wondered what Santa does when he’s not delivering presents to children around the world, this cute exhibition will answer that question and keep children and adults quite amused at the same time. Cour Saint-Emilion (12th), 08 25 16 60 75
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PARIS THIS MONTH
Skating Around From December 14th Skate under the famous Grand Palais glass ceiling and on the world’s largest indoor ice-skating rink as the exhibition space transforms into Le Grand Palais des Glaces. Reserve at www.legrandpalaisdesglaces.com Ave Winston Churchill (8th)
Christmas Market All Month
Bercy © Levillain Kovalsky Signatures; Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte © Erwann Maignan; Gift © istock
Drink mulled wine or treat yourself to a Nutella crepe as you stroll along the Christmas market set up on the most beautiful avenue in the world, the Champs-Elysées. Beautifully lighting up the avenue, the market sees arts and crafts being offered up in the different stalls as well as delicious treats for young and old.
Day Trip From December 3RD Take the children on a day trip to the majestic Château de Vaux-leVicomte and spend the day with Santa. Horse and carriage rides around the manicured French gardens, photos with Santa and surprise gifts all make up the magical experience at the chateau this Christmas. Check website for all dates and reservations. Maincy 77950 (50 minutes from Paris) www.vaux-le-vicomte.com/vaux-le-vicomte-fete-noel
Merry Christmas December 25th From everyone at Where we would like to wish you a very Merry Christmas. w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 11
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PARIS THIS MONTH
FROM DECEMBER 7TH
Trade Shows & Art Fairs
If during the holiday season it is a tradition to take in a ballet or an opera then do not miss out on seeing Swan Lake at Opéra Bastille.
DECEMBER 1-4 CARROUSEL DES METIERS D’ART ET DE CREATION
An Evening at the Ballet
Superb show bringing together a multitude of arts and craftsmen from France and around the world exhibiting design pieces, decor and fashion, making for a unique gift-shopping venue. Open from 2pm-6pm on the 1st, from 10am-8pm on the 2nd and 3rd, and from 10am-6pm on the 4th. www.carrousel-metiers-art.com
Place de la Bastille (12th), 08 92 89 90 90
Carrousel du Louvre, 99 rue de Rivoli (1st)
DECEMBER 1-4 SALON DU CHEVAL DE PARIS The Paris Horse Show is regarded as one of the finest in the world. Dedicated to the universe of the horse, it embodies equestrian elegance. Breeders will be on hand as well as over 2300 horses, ponies and donkeys. A host of competitions and everything related to the world of horses are all on the agenda. The show is open from 10am-7pm, until 8pm on the 2nd and 3rd. www.salon-cheval.com
Pop-Up Shopping ALL MONTH Discover 150 different French designers and brands at the La Fabrique du Père Noël pop-up store and find last minute gift ideas or simply gift yourself with a made in France item to make all your friends back home jealous. Open daily. 6 rue des Archives (4th)
Parc des Expositions de Paris-Nord Villepinte
DECEMBER 2-5 SALON SAVEURS This is a joyful celebration of glorious French gastronomy with regional specialties and luxury foods and a place to purchase and savour delicacies. The show is open from 10am-8pm, until 9:30pm on the 2nd, and until 6pm on the 5th. www.salon-saveurs.com Espace Champerret, Place de la Porte de Champerret (17th)
DECEMBER 3-11 NAUTIC SALON NAUTIQUE This is a premium trade show for boating enthusiasts. Sailboats, motorboats and the latest yachts are all on hand for this annual rendezvous of the sea. The show is open from 10am-7pm, until 10pm on the 9th, and until 6pm on the 11th. www.salonnautiqueparis.com Paris Expo, Blvd Victor (15th)
DECEMBER 31ST Bring in 2017 with colourful lights. Marvel at the City of Light as it gets even brighter with the dazzling fireworks show at the Arc de Triomphe. Happy New Year!
This show takes you on a holiday to swimming pool and wellness installations for the home or for professionals. The show displays everything from deck chairs to outdoor furnishings to saunas and hammams. The show is open from 10am-7pm, until 10pm on the 9th, and until 6pm on the 11th. www. salonpiscineparis.com Paris Expo, Blvd Victor (15th)
DECEMBER 10-11 SALON DES GALERIES ET DES COLLECTIONNEURS ENGAGES This art show, being held for the first time this year, brings together galleries specialised in contemporary international art and encourages exchanges between gallery owners and collectors, with each stand being conceived as an exhibition. The show is open from 1pm-7pm. www.galeristes.fr Carreau du Temple 4 rue Eugène-Spuller (3rd)
Swan Lake © Ann Ray/OnP; Fireworks © istock
Happy New Year
DECEMBER 3-11 SALON DE LA PISCINE & BIEN-ETRE
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CHAMPAGNE COUNTRY A Country Unto Itself By Patricia Valicenti
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Champagne
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northern location, particularly rugged climate, distinctive soil and hillside vineyards add up to the one of a kind terroir that is Champagne, which has a history of wine-growing going back millennia. Parts of the equation that go into the making of one of the Earth’s most favourite beverages is a dual climate of oceanic and continental influences, a predominately limestone subsoil, which keeps the vine plants naturally watered all year round, and the undulating to moderately steep terrain upon which the vine plants are grown. It was born, too, of the hard-working hand of man that knew how to bend and shape the solid earth of this growing region. It was centuries of labour by men and women that turned a cold, humid, hilly landscape of soil of almost pure chalk into a world-famous beverage of celebration. And today, the variety of the houses and vintages is a reflection of the men and women who worked that land. There are the big houses known throughout the world and the small family establishments as well often working their own small parcels of vineyard that they turn into fine champagnes. There are the 17 villages where the prestigious
Grand Cru champagnes come from, Grand Cru being an indication of the high quality of the growing conditions and the grapes grown in these places. A mythical name on the Champagne horizon is Aÿ, an old fortified town of winding streets and half timbered houses where winemaking can be traced back 1700 years to the Romans and it is here that one finds the house of Lallier, founded by René Lallier in 1906, and while the family sold the house in 2004 to its current owner Francis Tribaut, it remains independent. Lallier brought out this year two exceptional champagnes, the Ouvrage Grand Cru aged on lees for five years and the R. 012 Brut, a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay from several of the Grand Cru growing villages. Pertois-Lebrun, another independent and family owned-house sits in the Grand Cru village of Cramant. Today the fifth generation of the family cultivates and harvests a single grape variety, chardonnay, and produces exclusively blanc de blancs champagne. This year they have brought out the Fond du Bateau No° 9 in their Perles de Terroir collection made of a single grape variety, chardonnay, from a single plot called Le Fond du Bateau, hence the name, and from a single year,
2009. It has been aged on the lees for a minimum of six years. Founded in 1735, Champagne Mandois, now run by Claude Mandois, the ninth generation of the family, has brought out a unique champagne this year, the Clos Mandois 2004 After Dinner, described as an after dinner champagne. A clos is a parcel of vineyard that is often enclosed by walls, and the Clos Mandois is found just behind the family home and is planted entirely with the pinot meunier grape variety and the Clos Mandois 2004 vintage has been aged on lees for 10 years. Only 3000 bottles of this complex champagne have been produced by the house in Pierry, one of the 44 Premier Cru growing places in Champagne. Meanwhile, the Epernay-based house of Champagne Boizel was founded in 1834 with the women of the house being particularly implicated in the house starting with Julie Martin, the wife of the house’s founder Auguste Boizel, to today with Evelyne Roques-Boizel of the fifth generation who has been running the house for 40 years. Boizel has brought out its special holiday gift box this year with the house’s Brut Reserve, a blend of the three classic Champagne grape varieties, chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier with its
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Champagne
Champagne Dinners The family-owned house of Taittinger is found in Reims, headquartered around the 13th century vestiges of the Abbey of SaintNicaise and 4th century Gallo-Roman cellars. The house, celebrated for its chardonnayoriented champagnes, will be one of the beverages of honour in the new Wine Room of the Buddha-Bar Hotel Paris. Nestled in the heart of the hotel’s wine cellar, the Wine Room hosts special dinners limited to 10 guests, pairing the hotel’s cuisine with an exceptional product with the experts from the selected house present. Taittinger will be the product of honour on December 1st and December 15th. Buddha-Bar Hotel Paris 4 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01 83 96 88 88
bottle dressed up in a cylindrical gift box decorated with pastel-coloured bubbles and designed by Valérie Vallé, the founder of the Simone boutique on the Left Bank and her daughter Alma. The case becomes a Magic Lantern with its LED lighting system that can be lit from a distance with a remote control. Epernay is also home to the venerable house of Pol Roger, who holds a Royal Warrant from Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth. One of the house’s prestigious offerings is the Cuvée Winston Churchill 2004, aged for over 10 years and is a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay that were already in production at the time of Winston Churchill. The house has also brought out its Brut Vintage 2006 for the festive season, which is composed of the classic Pol Roger blend of 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay grapes emanating from the 20 Grands et Premiers Crus of the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs and this vintage champagne has been aged for nine years. Joseph Krug founded the house of the same name in 1843 and today, while no longer family-owned, the sixth generation of Krugs still runs the Reims-based house along the guidelines set out by Joseph Krug. The house’s founder created a vast collection of reserve wines to recreate each year a rich and elegant champagne giving rise to the Krug Grande
Cuvée a tradition maintained today for it is blended every year, outside of vintage years, with a host of different reserve wines. This month the Krug month is unfolding in Paris in myriad establishments around town. A food is chosen, this year the egg, with the chefs in the various venues concocting an egg-based dish in bite-sized portions to be served with the house’s emblematic Krug Grande Cuvée. In town there are plenty of places to enjoy a fine selection of champagnes, among them the champagne bar in the aptly named Hôtel Les Bulles de Paris, bulles meaning bubbles, which revolves around the theme of champagne. The smartly appointed bar in gold and black carries a stellar array of dozens of champagnes by the glass or the bottle and also offers bilogies, a tasting of two different champagnes by the glass and trilogies with three, and all come with a caviar option. The establishment also has a tasting room in the vaulted cellar where special champagne events are held and where you can book a champagne tasting class. Meanwhile, Le Muselet restaurant, which serves sourced seasonal food, has a selection of some 60 champagnes on the menu and is equipped with a champagne cellar if you want to buy a bottle to take home with you. And La Dégustation, a champagne bar and gourmet grocery store, is a nice spot to stop at in Montmartre for an eclectic selection of champagnes by the glass.
Champagne Boizel 46 ave de Champagne, 51200 Epernay, 03 26 55 21 51
Champagne Lallier Available at La Grande Epicerie de Paris 38 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01 44 39 81 00
Champagne Mandois 66 rue du Général de Gaulle, 51530 Pierry, 03 26 54 03 18
Champagne Pertois-Lebrun Available at La Cave du Marcande, 213 rue des Pyrénées (20th), 01 43 58 37 57
Champagne Pol Roger 1 rue Winston Churchill, 51200 Epernay, 03 26 59 58 00
HOtel Les Bulles de Paris 32 rue des Ecoles (5th), 01 46 34 12 90
La DEgustation 93 rue Lepic (18th), 01 46 06 25 20
Le Muselet 48 rue Saint Georges (9th), 01 48 78 46 09
Krug Month Hôtel Scribe 1 rue Scribe (9th), 01 44 71 24 24 Hôtel Lancaster 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01 40 76 40 76
Grapes © istock
Previous page: Pertois-Lebrun’s Grand Cru vineyard parcel called Le Fond du Bateau This page: The Krug cellars and Lallier’s R. 012 Brut
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ENJOY RESPONSIBLY
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NEW SHOW
CREATED AND DIRECTED BY FRANCO DRAGONE
DINNER & SHOW CHAMPAGNE & SHOW
LIDO DE PARIS 116 BIS AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ELYSÉES, 75008 PARIS
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CHRISTMAS EVE NEW YEAR’S EVE
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NEW SHOW ‘‘PARIS MERVEILLES’’ The Lido, the mythical, world-famous cabaret, is the incarnation of Parisian chic and glamour. PARIS MERVEILLES boasts an impressive combination of resources and talent. Designed and directed by Franco Dragone, an international figure in live events, this production dazzles with its sumptuous costumes, virtuoso visual effects and the creativity of its tableaux. An enchanted voyage in the heart of Paris, alternating technological prowess and moments of pure poetry.
For the end of year festivities, the Lido has some very special evenings in store for you : CHRISTMAS EVE
NEW YEAR’S EVE
Saturday 24 of December 2016, you will be dazzled by the energy of the new show ‘Paris Merveilles’. The refined Christmas menu designed specially for the occasion by the Chef is an explosion of tastes and flavours. Christmas Eve at the Lido is an evening full of joyfulness, elegance and surprises...
Saturday 31st of December 2016 will be an exceptional night on the Champs-Elysées: gastronomical dinner with four violinists playing amongst the tables, the new show, ‘Paris Merveilles’. At midnight and until dawn, the mythical Lido stage is all yours with the International live orchestra of Dov Amiel and its 15 musicians.
th
©PHOTO : PICS
INFORMATION / RESERVATION + 33 (0) 1 40 76 56 10 • reservation@lido.fr www.lido.fr
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Memories in Light The Art and Craft of Stained Glass By Patricia Valicenti
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Cathedral of Notre Dame © iStock; Sainte-Chapelle © David Bordes – Centre des monuments nationaux; Samson and the Lion, Stained glass from the Sainte-Chapelle, Musée de Cluny - musée national du Moyen Âge © RMN-Grand Palais / Franck Raux
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The stained glass of the Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris (opposite page); The stained glass of the SainteChapelle (above); Samson and the Lion, the stained glass from the Sainte-Chapelle of Paris (inset)
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ransparency is glass’s great stroke of genius and in stained glass coloured transparency bursts forth with precious gemstone colours, colours that are the result of the various metal oxides that are added to the glass, cobalt for blue, copper for red and green, manganese for purple and lustrous grey antimony for yellow. Stained glass was one of the leading forms of painting in Europe from the Gothic period to the Renaissance, embodying religious narratives in churches and cloisters while panels of painted glass told the tale of kings and the court or the arts and crafts of the day and were found in public structures and private homes as well as in religious edifices. Usually used to make windows so the light would shine through a painting, it is an art that has been in existence for some 1000 years and is essentially still made in the same way today. The spectacular Gothic cathedrals of France would prove to be a place of predilection for stained glass and the art and craftsmen behind them. Rayonnant, which literally means radiant, was a 13th century French building style that represents the height of Gothic architecture and in which decoration was a priority. Great examples of this high Gothic art are found in Paris, notably in the Cathedral of Notre-Dame and inside the Sainte-Chapelle, a jewel box of stained glass and light on the Ile de la Cité.
This masterpiece seemingly fashioned out of stained glass windows was built between 1242 and 1248 by Louis IX who would become Saint Louis, in the heart of his island palace as a setting for the relics of the Passion of Christ notably the crown of thorns. The first floor of the two-story structure was reserved for the king, the royal family and exceptional guests and was on the same level as the royal apartments while the ground floor was for the parishioners. The structure’s stained glass windows form a unique ensemble composed of 1113 figurative scenes spread out on an astonishing 750 square metres of glass. They have withstood for nearly eight centuries, a curtain of glass flashing with precious jewels of light when the brilliance of the sun shines through them. The seven windows on the northern side and the grand western rose window underwent a spectacular seven-year restoration, ending in 2015, that was conducted by the Centre des monuments Nationaux (the Centre for National Monuments), which runs the site. Saint Louis also participated in the stained
glass wonders of the Cathedral of Notre-Dame whose three stained glass roses are regarded as one of the greatest masterpieces of Christianity with the two largest measuring 13 metres in diameter. He would donate the South Rose Window, which was constructed in 1260, to the cathedral and he would delay his departure for the second crusade in 1270 to see the completion of the ensemble. The stained glass windows embody the aesthetic and the spiritual and represent the flowers of Paradise looking like rose petals. Figures represented include prophets, saints, angels, kings, the wise virgins, kings and biblical scenes. Another great place to discover stained glass is in the Musée de Cluny, which is the French national museum devoted to the Middle Ages. Among the myriad stained glass windows in the collection, there is a 14th century depiction of Saint Paul most likely in provenance from the royal castle of Rouen. The museum also houses two stained glass 13th century panels from the Sainte-Chapelle with one depicting Samson tearing apart the jaws of a lion divinely demonstrating the invincible strength of the Biblical hero while the other is a panel of four characters, and both are remarkable by the refinement and variety of the colours of the glass used in the picture. One of the more intriguing pieces depicts a man and a woman dressed all in white and gold playing chess. The 15th century piece has exemplary detailing with the woman feigning surprise upon looking at her preoccupied suitor. It is an intriguing piece as it depicts an everyday slice of medieval life opposed to a biblical, court or religious representation. On a contemporary note, the Petit Palais is hosting the first personal exhibition in France of the contemporary Afro-American artist Kehinde Wiley. Six monumental stained glass windows accompanied by three monumental paintings are on display in the museum’s large format gallery. The artist takes his inspiration from the masters like Titian, van Dyck, Ingres and David while blending in elements of religion and popular culture. Meanwhile, some of the world’s most spectacular stained glass dating from the w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 21
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Contemporary stained glass entitled Cherry Flowers by the stained glass artist Pascal Rieu (left); Stained glass artist Pascal Rieu working in his studio
Peters stained glass studio in the German city of Paderborn, located in the heart of Europe and which was founded by Charlemagne in the 8th century. The Peters studio was founded 100 years ago and today executes commands from all over Europe, the United States, Canada and Asia. In addition to temporary exhibitions, the International Stained Glass Centre also houses a permanent collection of 70 stained glass windows from the Renaissance, a stained glass and cultural heritage school, arts and crafts workshops and a professional training centre. Stained glassmakers in Paris and Chartres and beyond also fashion pieces in stained glass in their studios and workshops. Pascal Rieu has been creating and restoring stained glass windows in his studio and boutique, L’Artisan du Vitrail, in the quaint Parisian neighbourhood of Ménilmontant since 2013. He also organises discovery workshops in traditional stained glass window making as well as painting on glass. Meanwhile, the Maison du Vitrail, which is a Living Heritage Company, a mark of recognition of the French State, was founded by Christiane and Philippe Andrieux in Paris in 1973 and in their workshop and boutique some 5000 square metres of old and contemporary glass are on hand for stained glass restorations and creations. They also organise workshops in traditional stained glassmaking.
Centre International du Vitrail Musée du Vitrail 5 rue du Cardinal Pie, 28000 Chartres 02 37 21 65 72 L’Artisan du Vitrail By appointment only 9 rue du Télégraphe (20th) 09 51 14 14 20 La Maison du Vitrail By appointment only 69 rue des Desnouettes (15th) 01 42 50 88 03 MusEe de Cluny 6 Place Paul Painlevé (5th) 01 53 73 78 00 Notre-Dame Cathedral 6 Parvis Notre-Dame (4th) 01 42 34 56 10 Chartres Tourism Office Maison du Saumon 8 rue de la Poissonnerie, 28000 Chartres 02 37 18 26 26 Petit Palais Ave Winston Churchill (8th) 01 53 43 40 00 Sainte-Chapelle 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 80
Photos © Julian Renard
12th and 13th centuries peacefully radiates an hour west of Paris by train in the Cathedral of Chartres, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and which is visible from 20 kilometres away. A masterpiece, it is filled with 172 stained glass windows covering 2600 square metres and peopled with some 5000 characters and is regarded as the richest collection of stained glass in Europe. The oldest windows date from the 12th century and are celebrated for their unique shade of blue, known as the blue of Chartres. The pictorial aspect of the windows offers a rich panorama illustrating the Bible, the life of Saints, the coats of arms of the great families and scenes of the crafts and professions of the age. Stained glass, however, is not an art relegated to the past and the medieval lifestyle, it is alive and well and thriving throughout the world. The Centre International du Vitrail (the International Stained Glass Centre) in Chartres is hosting an exhibition featuring an international panorama of contemporary stained glass. Entitled Lights of the World, it showcases the works in stained glass by 286 artists hailing from five continents who drew their inspiration from a unique theme, the search for the light of the world. A unique ensemble of 321 works enables the visitor to enter into the pictorial universe of these contemporary artists from around the world. The works were made in the 22 WHERE Pa r i s I D E C e m b e r 2016
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TA S A K I a t R i t z P a r i s TA S A K I a t L e B o n M a r c h é R i v e G a u c h e tasaki.co.jp
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The Guide
Shopping
By Sandra Iskander
For Her | Christmas Gifts | Timepieces | For Him | For Children | Beauty
Tell time with Chanel (page 40)
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Shopping For Her
Cruise Control Emporio Armani’s 2017 cruise collection is designed to make a statement and to easily take you from summer to winter without missing a fashionable step. Widelegged pants with large polka dots, wide brimmed hats and a girlie striped pink ensemble complete with a hood all make up the collection, which embraces every woman’s young spirit.. Emporio Armani Boutique 368 rue Saint-Honoré (1st) 01 42 86 15 30
Lancel Launches the Bucket Launched in 1876, iconic French leatherwear brand Lancel is known and famous for its Parisian style in accessorising. The house’s cult bag, the Bucket, released in 1980 and later inspiring the brand’s First Flirt bag in 2000 has made Lancel the proud brand behind some of the designs that quickly became the it-bags of the last decades. And this year it is no different for the bag designers with the autumn/winter 2016/2017 collection featuring bags that complement the look that has epitomised Parisian chic, fun and elegant. The standout bag this season is Le Huit, available in a mini and larger version, and it keeps with the form of Lancel’s signature bag, the Bucket. Le Huit is made with soft, grained leather and is available in an array of colours including black, camel and Lancel’s signature red. Lancel Boutique 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 56 89 15 70 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 25
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SHOPPING
Christmas Gifts
Guarantee she isn’t disappointed with her gift and present her with this dazzling black gold and diamond pendant from Nuun. 71 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th) 01 45 22 39 90
A scent conjures up a thousand memories. Give her a new cherished memory with Bvlgari’s Splendia perfume from the Le Gemme Imperiali collection. Inspired by green jade, the scent is a medley of magnolia and iris.
…Or if she prefers a more classic scent then this Giorgio Beverly Hills collector’s edition gift set that comes with an adorable teddy bear is the way to her heart.
Available at Galeries Lafayette
Available at Marionnaud
Merry Christmas For Her
Write her a love letter with jewellery and give her this rose gold Love Letter bracelet from Ted Baker. 20 rue des Francs Bourgeois (3rd), 01 44 54 02 98 26 WHERE PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2016
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SHOPPING
Christmas Gifts
Whether he enjoys birdwatching or going on safari, he will definitely appreciate these Leica binoculars that will bring whatever he is watching a lot closer. 105 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th) 01 77 72 20 70
Get him fit and healthy with the new Fitbit Charge 2. The wristband will not only help him stay active by tracking his activity but it will also keep him connected with the Fitbit doubling as a smartwatch. Available at Fnac
A gentleman’s time is precious and you can make sure he is always on time by presenting him with a timepiece from Gucci’s GG2570 collection.
For Him
For your music lover this Halterrego turntable makes the ideal Christmas gift. The turntable plays old school records and features two speakers, Bluetooth and a USB port to let him save his favourite retro tunes on his computer.
Available at Printemps
Offer him clarity when listening to his favourite music with the Sonorous VIII headphones. The Balancing Air Movement mechanism optimises the air movement inside the housing while the sleek design makes the headphones a luxe accessory.
Available at Nature & Découvertes
Available at Colette
If you’re looking for the perfect gift for someone who loves being outdoors and the snow then this Salomon Craft snowboard is the answer. Equipped with Rock Out Camber and EQ Rad to enable edge control, it is a great gift for any freestyler on the slopes. Available at Decathlon w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 27
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SHOPPING
Christmas Gifts
Give your mini pilot the best gift with this metal plane from Maisons du Monde that he can hang on his bedroom’s ceiling. 5 blvd Montmartre (2nd), 01 42 36 00 99
Get your little racecar driver ready for the Grand Prix with this Lightning McQueen car that comes with its own flag. Available at La Grande Récré
For the Little Ones
Shield your fashionista’s eyes with these rock star sunglasses from Stella McCartney.
Nourish your child’s literary flair with this limited edition Paul Smith + Caran d’Ache set of 8 pens with colours inspired by the British designer’s autumn/winter collection. Available at Le BHV
Get your little boy these cool sneakers from San Marina, making sure he is on trend and comfortable.
114-121 Galerie de Valois Jardins du Palais Royal (1st), 01 47 03 03 80
1 blvd Saint-Michel (5th), 01 43 25 99 70
Get your up-and-coming pop star this red-hot Yamaha keyboard. Available at Home Studio 39 rue Victor Massé (9th), 01 42 82 04 63 28 WHERE PA R I S I D E C E M B E R 2016
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SHOPPING
Christmas Gifts
STOCKING FILLERS Tony Moly hand butter trio Available at Sephora
Present your little princess with the Eiffel Tower so she will always remember Paris with Pandora’s golden charm. Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 40 20 07 38
Limited edition Fauchon porcelain foie gras jar Available at La Grande Epicerie
Marc Jacobs make-up brush set Available at Sephora
Gift your daughter with a Moulin Roty Les Parisiennes doll that will undoubtedly become her favourite toy. 22 blvd des Filles du Calvaire (11th) 01 47 00 44 30
Michel Cluizel chocolate box 3 rue Tronchet (8th) 01 80 06 84 00
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Shopping
Christmas Gifts
The limited edition fragrance diffuser from Fouquet’s. The sweetness of the vanilla notes is luxuriously diffused from the ice cube-shaped vase created using crystal, gold and diamonds. 46 ave George V (8th), 01 40 69 60 00
Available at Miliboo
The limited edition one-kilo pure gold 5000 Euro coin created by Monnaie de Paris (Paris Mint) with fine jewellery house Van Cleef & Arpels featuring a butterfly set with 35 diamonds. Available at Monnaie de Paris
Hennessy’s limited edition Hennessy-8 coffret designed by Arik Levy featuring a Baccarat crystal carafe, marking the 250th anniversary of the Maison Hennessy.
Mood by Christofle, a flatware set for six encased in a contemporary egg-shaped gift box in 24-carat gold gilded metal
www.hennessy.fr
9 rue Royale (8th), 01 55 27 99 17
Fouquet’s © Laurent Fau; Christofle © Kujjuk Studio
Ekko’s connected mirror allows you to not only see your reflection but also lets you listen to music, check the weather and even watch YouTube videos while getting ready in the morning.
... and For the Person Who has Everything
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MADE IN boggi.com Paris | 38 Boulevard des Italiens | Tel. +33 1 402.299.82 | 112 Boulevard Saint-Germain | Tel. +33 1 463.306.68
-10%* -12%** UP TO
For you, an exclusive promotion at our stores in paris PROMOTION VALID TILL 31/12/16
-10% store Discount EXCLUSIVELY FOR FOREIGN INDIVIDUAL CUSTOMERS UPON PRESENTATION OF A VALID FOREIGN PASSPORT. *Please show this page to the cashier with your passport. The 10% discount is applicable in all Boggi stores in Paris, by required subscription to our Privilege Program. It is valid for 10 days from your first purchase upon presentation of your Privilege Card or your mobile phone provided with Bluetooth technology. The tax refund is applicable on your discounted purchases. This 10% discount cannot be accumulated with other discounts, nor claimed once payment has been made. This card is strictly personal and non-transferrable.
up to -12% tax reFunD **For the residents outside the European Union. The total amount of your purchases must be over Euro 175,01 and the tax refund form must be completed the same day of your purchases.
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Shopping Fashion
A Family
CHRISTMAS Photographers: Nicolas Receveur and Michael Mohr Stylist: Joanna Kalinski Art Direction & Fashion Editor: Sandra Iskander Make-up Artist: Alexandra Meric Hair Stylist: Fred Teglia Models: Nastya from Metropolitan Models, Clement Barreda from Bananas Models and LĂŠa Special thanks to the Shangri-La Paris Hotel
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Nastya wears Talbot Runhof dress Piaget white gold and diamond cuff bracelet Clement wears De Fursac turtleneck and suit Dior shoes Blancpain watch LĂŠa wears Simple Kids dress (Available exclusively at Fifi De Vem) Galeries Lafayette polar bear mascot and teddy bear Christmas decorations from Sia
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Nastya wears N21 skirt (Available exclusively at Galeries Lafayette) Andrew GN sweater Tasaki white gold, pearl and diamond ring and earrings LĂŠa wears Maan dress (Available exclusively at Fifi De Vem) Galeries Lafayette polar bear mascot and teddy bear Christmas decorations from Sia
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Azzaro Paris pants De Fursac coat Lana Di Capra cashmere sweater Dior boots Blancpain watch Bonpoint teddy bear (Available exclusively at Printemps)
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Talbot Runhof top Roland Mouret pants de Grisogono rose gold, pink sapphires and amethyst earrings Bonpoint teddy bear (Available exclusively at Printemps)
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Nastya wears Sonia Rykiel pants and blouse Emporio Armani jacket Halston Heritage bag (Available on theoutnet.com) de Grisogono grey gold and amethyst ring and rose gold and diamond earrings Clement wears Azzaro Paris turtleneck Brunello Cuccinelli suit
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Etro dress Cartier platinum and grey gold Panther necklace with diamonds, emeralds and onyx Cartier grey gold, diamond, onyx and chrysoprase ring
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yohjiyamamoto.co.jp
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YOHJI YAMAMOTO 4, rue Cambon, Paris 1er
14-15, Conduit Street, London W1S 2XJ
Shopping For Her
Disco Grunge When the 70s gets together with the 90s for a collection suitable for the cooler month you end up with Max Mara’s autumn/winter 2016/2017 collection. The Italian ready-towear label’s latest collection brings together the best of the two decades’ trends, creating this winter’s hybrid look. Sequined gold hot shorts, angora and wool knits and long coats make up the stylish collection that will have your wardrobe fashioned with both grunge angst and disco fever all at the same time. Max Mara Boutique 31 ave Montaigne (8th) 01 47 20 61 13
Wrapped with Love Celebrate love with Swildens’s L’Amour collection. The capsule collection is all about embracing love and wearing it loud and proud and includes sweatshirts, scarves and even notebooks featuring illustrations by Delphine Couly. Swildens Boutique 18 rue du Vieux Colombier (6th), 01 42 84 31 84
Chanel Fits Like a Glove Chanel’s iconic J12 watch has been downsized to a size XS with the release of the house’s J12XS watch. The elegant timepiece has taken everything that is chic and refined about the original watch and has just made it smaller to complement the fashion house’s other accessories that have been designed with the J12XS in mind, including a pair of leather gloves. The 19mm diameter dial makes the watch small enough to slip in the loops of the supple leather glove yet remaining large enough to make a timely statement. The limited edition black gloves, only 150 pairs have been made, are made with the softest black lamb skin and feature steel ardillon buckles and steel loops brilliantly set with diamonds, making them an equally luxurious accessory with or without the watch. Chanel Boutique 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01 44 50 66 00 40 WHERE Pa r is I D E C em b e r 2016
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WHERE PARIS PROMOTION
TASAKI
T
the pearl in majesty
he famous Japanese jewellery firm, founded in 1954, has opened its first Place Vendôme store in the prestigious Ritz Paris Hotel, creating quite a splash by completely transforming today’s image of the pearl. A newcomer to France, but well established in Japan for over half a century, Tasaki is also the world’s leading producer of Akoya pearls. With over fifty sales outlets in Japan, the jeweller is one of the best-known brands in the Japanese luxury goods market. Already established in France with a concession at the Bon Marché, Tasaki has chosen to open its first European store at Place Vendôme, inside the prestigious Ritz Paris Hotel. This new setting recreates the refined ambiance of Tasaki’s 9-storey flagship store in the very popular Ginza district of Tokyo. The restrained interior architecture and the warm natural woods of the showcases provide a discreet backdrop for the thrill of discovering jewellery creations. To create its jewellery collections, the Japanese firm brought in young New York fashion designer Thakoon Panichgul, who is endorsed by Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and whose clients include famous names such as Sarah Jessica Parker and Michelle Obama. The fresh vision he brings to Tasaki’s jewellery is
exactly what the brand was looking for: to make the pearl once again the focus of the design, with an approach that is resolutely modern, timeless and elegant. His standout designs “Balance”, “Refined Rebellion” and “Danger” are fast becoming the brand’s most iconic signature products. The designer exploits the perfection of the pearls individually selected for him at Tasaki’s pearl farms in Japan, creating pieces of jewellery like his best-selling “Balance” ring, set with five perfectly round and calibrated cultured pearls.
To mark its arrival at the Ritz, Tasaki also created an initial collection of six pieces of high- end jewellery, “Ritz Paris par Tasaki”. A veritable ode to the legendary jewel of the Place Vendôme, the collection includes specially-created pieces like “The Quintessence of Ritz Paris” necklace and the dazzling “Ritz Paris” necklace with a magnificent 5.58-carat diamond in the centre. Tasaki, enjoying exclusive rights as first buyer in Japan of rough diamonds from the De Beers diamond group, selects only the very best gems to adorn its designs. To celebrate the beauty of the pearls, like an architect, Thakoon Panichgul has designed the “Nacre” ring with a highly original mabe pearl structure, bound together by diamonds and a thread of pink gold called Sakuragold, an allusion to the delicate pink colour of cherry blossom. When Japanese refinement meets French luxury, the result is flashes of brilliance, studded with diamonds and pearls!
From the top: “Elégance” necklace with South Sea baroque pearls and diamonds on yellow gold; “Balance Class” ring, South Seas pearl, diamonds on white gold ; Tasaki store in the prestigious gallery of the Ritz Paris Hotel
TASAKI at the Ritz Paris 15 place Vendôme, Paris 1st Tel : + 33 1 42 36 33 00 Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche 24 rue de Sèvres, Paris 7th Tel: + 33 1 44 39 80 00 www.tasaki.fr w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 41
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SHOPPING
Timepieces
A YEAR OF CELEBRATIONS
T
he world of Wempe unfolds in 32 boutiques in cities all over the world, including New York, Paris and London, with the family-owned company based in Hamburg where Gerhard Diedrich Wempe founded it in 1878. The house’s Parisian boutique opened in 1985 and today it is a place where one can spend time to discover myriad watches from both Wempe and a host of brands. Wempe, in the picturesque city of Schwäbisch Gmünd, makes jewellery of the by Kim brand, in addition to which the house also operates the largest independent watchmaker’s workshop in Europe and has been certified as a “Best Place to Learn” in Germany since 2015. However, it is in an observatory in Glashütte, renovated by the house, that the company beats into existence for it is here that Wempe manufactures its own wristwatch chronometers of the Glashütte I/SA brand. Watchmakers use observatories in precision work and the one in Glashütte came into being in 1910, and to mark
the tenth anniversary of the Wempe Observatory, the young watch brand is presenting in its Chronometerwerke Automatic, its fifth Wempe manufacture calibre, CW 4, which is also Wempe’s first own self-winding calibre. The movement is fitted into an elegant three-hand watch with a date display and the accuracy of this timepiece qualifies it as a German chronometer. “The idea of developing our own round self-winding calibre arose back when we launched our first wristwatch chronometers ten years ago,” says Kim-Eva Wempe, the fourth generation of the family to manage the company. “The technical development process ultimately lasted for almost four years. After a focus on traditional watchmaking, the emphasis is now on pioneering innovation. At the same time, we are staying true to our principles of wellbalanced aesthetics and fair pricing.” On the tenth anniversary of the founding of its own manufacture, the house has also launched its Precision Pendulum Clock
5/6 PPU. Limited to an edition of ten, this wall clock is a tribute to the Glashütte Observatory as well as the tradition of German watchmaking. Also celebrating the tenth anniversary of the launch of the Wempe Glashütte I/SA wristwatch chronometers, the company has brought out the Zeitmeister Annual Calendar with a handsome silver face. Limited to 100 pieces, this Annual Calendar with a self-winding movement is considered to be the most complicated watch of the Zeitmeister range. It is also the world’s first annual calendar with a German chronometer certification. And in tandem with this same anniversary the house is presenting the Zeitmeister Sport Diver’s Chronograph DLC, a watch for bold divers who want to plunge down to 300 metres. The timepiece, outfitted with a black DLC-coated stainless steel strap, is also in a limited edition of 100 numbered pieces. Wempe Boutique 16 rue Royale (8th), 01 42 60 21 77
Illustration © Tim Benton, Watches, L to R © Wempe: The Chronometerwerke Automatic in yellow gold, The Zeitmeister Sport Diver’s Chronograph DLC , The Chronometerwerke Automatic in stainless steel
By Patricia Valicenti
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YOUR INVITATION FOR A SPARKLING HOLIDAY SEASON AT L A VALLÉE VILL AGE Discover more than 110 boutiques with savings of at least 33%* and tax refunds§ in a charming open-air setting. Armani, Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors, Moncler, Paul Smith, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sandro, Tod’s and many more Open seven days a week, 35 minutes from Paris and 5 minutes from Disney® Parks.
London
Dublin
Paris
Frankfurt
Munich
Brussels
Milan
Barcelona
Madrid
Suzhou
Shanghai
* and often more on the recommended retail price of previous seasons’ collections. § Non-EU residents are entitled to a tax refund of at least 12% on purchases of more than €175 per boutique. © La Vallée Village 2016
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Where Paris Promotion
In-store events
LE BHV MARAIS FATHER CHRISTMAS POSES FOR PICTURES WEDNESDAYS ANS SATURDAYS
PREMIUM SERVICE: BMW SHUTTLE
MASTER CLASSE WITH PATRICK CHEVALLOT
A long-standing partner to Val d’Isère, BMW is offering a free shuttle service to take shoppers home after visiting LE BHV MARAIS.
Renowned Val d’Isère-based pastry chef and chocolate artisan Patrick Chevallot (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) will be hosting a master classe at LE BHV MARAIS to delight the tastebuds of shoppers and share some of his secrets. 2pm on the third floor on 7 December. Sign up on www.lebhvmarais.fr
APRES-SKI IN THE CITY
LE PERCHOIR MARAIS
Bring your children to the photography studio on the fifth floor for a memorable portrait with Father Christmas in a magical snowy backdrop.
EMBLEMATIC SKI BRAND ROSSIGNOL TAKES UP ITS WINTER RESIDENCE AT LE BHV MARAIS
The leader in winter sports apparel for more than a century, Rossignol is setting up shop in LE BHV MARAIS’s fashion department. Inspired by its roots, the Rossignol brand offers Sport Chic après ski ranges for a cool urban lifestyle look for men and women. Asymmetric cuts and contemporary highperformance materials are combined for a fitted yet comfortable silhouette. Ground floor in the main store and in LE BHV MARAIS L’HOMME. Until 31 December 2016
Rossignol invites city dwellers to get s slice of the fun and excitement of ski resort lifestyle right in the heart of the capital. The store’s Cour Bleue terrace will be transformed into an ice cool alpine Wonderland. Rossignol x La Folie Douce, the ultimate concept in ski resort partying and entertainment, is set to be the hippest festive hang-out in Paris. La Cour Bleue – LE BHV MARAIS L’HOMME. 14 rue du Temple (4th)
The famous rooftop of LE BHV MARAIS change to winter time! New decoration, new opening hours, with in addition, one of the most beautiful view of Paris. Entrance: 37, rue de la Verrerie, Paris (4th). From Wednesday to Saturday, 8:15pm till 1:30am
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Where Paris Promotion
MERRY CHRISTMAS,
LE BHV MARAIS!
L
E BHV MARAIS, the Parisians’ favorite department store, the 1st to be opened every Sunday, celebrates 160th Christmas in true Alpine Style!
Ideally located in the heart of Paris, facing the Hotel de Ville, and Notre-Dame, in the most touristic, trendy and cultural area, LE BHV MARAIS has invited Val d’Isère, France’s most iconic and best known ski resort, to bring a taste of festive Alpine fun to Paris this Christmas. Get into the Christmas spirit with cosy evenings by the fireside and festive dining with family and friends in a classic mountain chalet ambiance! Our Home and Fashion departments offer shoppers an Alpine experience with rugged mountain-style looks.
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Get into cocooning mood with wool and sheepskin products and snuggly quilts. Recreate a chalet holiday at home with small wooden furniture items, stylish designer objects or more traditional Christmas decorations. Visitors will also find inspiration for great gifts. The store comes alive with the Christmas spirit: Father Christmas will be wandering around the top floors, while the store front is lit up in Val d’Isère’s traditional colors and the Cour Bleue terrace, the courtyard in the men’s store, is transformed into the capital’s hippest alpine bar. Just a few steps away from LE BHV MARAIS L’HOMME, 5 new boutique stores dedicated to Men’s luxury fashion have been opened to offer a new range of high-end items in addition to the accessible and creative brands already sold at LE BHV MARAIS.
For tourists, LE BHV MARAIS has put in place a special offer: 10% OFF for EU and non –EU residents, alongside the 12% Tax Refund, making shopping here while on holidays even more pleasurable. Express and international delivery, hands free shopping and express tax refund are also a few of services offered. So slide on down for an Alpine Christmas at LE BHV MARAIS – the coolest place to be this winter! LE BHV MARAIS 52 rue de Rivoli 9-15 rue des Archives Paris 4th Tel: 00 (33) 977 401 400 Open Monday – Saturday 9:30am - 8pm On Sunday 11am-7pm www.lebhvmarais.fr
15/11/2016 07:48
Shopping For Him
Cars and Fashion Two heavyweights in the world of luxury have beautifully come together to bring luxury car aficionados a limited edition capsule collection of both leather goods and ready-to-wear pieces. Embodying the sophisticated Bugatti car, fashion house Giorgio Armani has designed sleek pieces that complement the Bugatti man look with the Giorgio Armani for Bugatti collection. A cashmere jacket, a coat and cashmere sweaters in shades of cognac, khaki green and blue make up the collection, with leather briefcases and weekend bags handmade with vellum and crocodile leather, and which are individually numbered, adding an extra touch of exclusivity to the collection. Giorgio Armani Boutique 18 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 42 61 55 09
Sneaker Personalities
Hunting in Style Beretta may be known for its firearms, however, the name popular with hunters also offers clients a smart readyto-wear collection. This winter season avid hunters are invited to discover the Beretta Vintage Years collection, which includes the St James line. Designed with the official opening of the British Game season in mind, the St James line includes elegant 2-layer waterproof coats, and with their fine Italian wool and cashmere blend they are comfortable and elegant enough to be worn in the urban jungle after offering protection to chic gentlemen while hunting.
Dior’s new sneaker collection will make every gentleman put an extra dollop of cool in his every step. For a slight grunge rocker injection to your look then you will love the black and red checker model with the black leather sole. And if you are after “I’m an artist who has been working in my atelier all day” look then the hand-painted denim model is a must-have, giving an edge to a straight-laced look. Dior Boutique 24 rue François 1er (8th), 01 40 73 55 93
Beretta Gallery Boutique 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01 56 88 59 59
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Shopping For Him
Backpacks are Back The 90s are back and so are all the accessories designed to complement the all-grunge look and this season designer Pierre Hardy has added his elegant touch to the staple backpack. His take on the bag is a sophisticated carry-all with black leather trims, gold metal zips and black leather lining. The luxe backpack is available in camouflage print,simple black and Hardy’s signature cube print. Pierre Hardy Boutique Jardins du Palais Royal 156 Galerie de Valois (1st) 01 42 60 59 75
Lacoste Looks Lacoste, the French clothing company known for its sportswear, has treated gentlemen to an autumn/winter 2016/2017 collection that is worthy for the urban streets this season. The collection features slim fit pants, bomber jackets and turtlenecks that can easily be worn in the office or on the weekends. Of course the classic, and iconic, polo t-shirt makes an appearance with an array of colours to choose from as well as new models of sneakers. Lacoste Boutique 93 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 47 23 39 26
Inspired by the aquatic world, the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Calibre 5 watch is the perfect timepiece for gentlemen who love to sail. The watch, designed to resist the most extreme sailing conditions, features hand-applied polished and faceted indexes with green and blue luminescent markers, hour and minute hands with green and blue luminescent markers and is water resistant to up to 300 metres. The timepiece is also elegant enough to wear out of the water with its black ceramic bezel and 3-row steel bracelet. TAG Heuer Boutique 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 58 56 21 95
Pierre Hardy backpacks © Pierre Hardy
Underwater Tag
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CACHEMIRE
Authenticity, Elegance
Handmade
APERTURE OCTOBRE 2016
©KBelouaar
1 Rue Auber 75009 Paris
A u t h e n t i c i t y. e l e g A n c e . h A n d m A d e
1 rue Auber - Paris 75009
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SHOPPING
For Children
Just for Kids Parents know they have found a good children’s ready-to-wear collection when there are pieces that they want for themselves and the latest Kenzo Kids collection is just that, a collection that will undoubtedly make adults envious. Boys will love the sweatshirts with badges of Kenzo’s famous tiger and the Eiffel Tower while young ladies, and their mums, will love the faux fur fuchsia and red coat. Kenzo Boutique 3 Place des Victoires (1st), 01 40 39 72 03
Cashmere Chic Dress your little ankle biters in cashmere this holiday season with Oscar et Valentine’s new collection. The French brand specialising in children’s ready-to-wear has added cute little onesies to its winter collection that already features soft and luxurious pieces including a pullover with a sweet French bulldog. The cutest onesie though has got to be the grey knit with a bowler hat and a moustache. Available at Le Bon Marché
ADVERTORIAL
Tikibou Toy Store The oldest toy store in Paris, Tikibou, is where you can find an incredible selection of antique favourites. Here you will find playful gems including Tintin, model cars and music boxes, making the shopping experience here quite exceptional. The wonderful and fun selection of toys, for both young and old, which include a fine choice of scale models and miniature trains makes this store an ideal address if you are looking for a unique gift for a collector or if you are looking for something that will bring a smile to your child and which could remain in the family for years to come. 33 blvd Edgar Quinet - Paris 14th Tel: 01 43 20 98 79 (M° Edgar Quinet) 20 ave Félix Faure - Paris 15th (M° Félix Faure) Tel: 01 45 58 17 44
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Where Paris Promotion
The World Of
Beretta
in the heart of Paris Beretta is the oldest gun manufactory in the world and it is also a brand that offers every year a high range ready-to-wear clothing line. For this spring/summer season, Beretta has created a new variation of the safari jacket.
M
ade famous by Ernest Hemingway, reworked by a haute couture house in 1967 during the African springsummer collection, the safari jacket became the must have item in a man’s wardrobe. Four pockets and one belt, in linen or in cotton, for
the safari or the town, the safari is the casual and chic jacket par excellence. Beretta Gallery, two steps away from the Champs-Elysées, is the essential address to complete your safari style wardrobe. Perfect urban camouflage, it will let you live
a motionless trip, respecting the timeless charm of the safari style.
Beretta Gallery Boutique 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th) M° George V or Franklin D. Roosevelt +33 (0)1 56 88 59 59
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SHOPPING Beauty
A VEIL OF SHIMMER This festive season make sure your make-up reflects all the glimmer and the shimmer of the holidays with these must-have items
1 Make your eyes shine with & Other Stories’s silver and gold eyeshadows. & Other Stories Boutique 277 rue Saint-Honoré (8th) 01 76 77 56 20 2 Give your face a natural-looking glow with Benefit’s Dew the Hoola liquid bronzer. Available at Sephora 3 Let your mani shine with Chanel’s Liquid Mirror nail polish and make sure it stays on for longer with Le Gel Coat, a longwear top coat that gives your mani a glossy gel-like finish without the use of a UV lamp. Chanel Boutique 52 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01 53 75 87 20 4 Cover your body with Marionnaud’s
5 Shield your lips with Lipstick Queen’s Queen Bee treatment lipstick. Not only will it nourish your lips with its Royal Jelly-enriched formula and honey fragrance but it will also leave them with a shimmering bronze gold finish. You can wear it on its own or layered onto another shade. Available at Sephora 6 Illuminate your lips with Lipstick Queen’s Ice Queen lipstick. The sheer white lipstick with flecks of silver and gold shimmer will highlight the natural pink colour of your lips. Available at Sephora
Background elements © istock; & Other Stories © & Other Stories Boutiques
Spray Lumière, a shimmering spray that can be sprayed on your body as well as your hair. Choose between flickers of rose gold or silver. Marionnaud Boutique 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01 53 96 50 00
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Agence Rio Grande - Studios FOCALE 3
A treasure given by nature
boizel.fr
L'ABUS D'ALCOOL EST DANGEREUX POUR LA SANTÉ, À CONSOMMER AVEC MODÉRATION. WP BOIZEL CHAMPAGNE.indd 1
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Shopping
For the Home
Unique Homeware In the forever evolving neighbourhood of the Marais is where you will find the recently opened Empreintes store. Focusing on promoting French artists, the concept store showcases over 1000 original and at times one-of-a-kind pieces made by French designers in their respective ateliers. Sprawled over four floors the store specialises in home décor with pieces resembling more works of art than practical objects for the home, giving shoppers here a sense of shopping in an art gallery. The store also boasts a café and a library, as well as a jewellery store-in-store where you will find handmade jewellery pieces. Empreintes Store 5 rue de Picardie (3rd), 01 40 09 53 80
At Home with Diptyque Synonymous with candles, Diptyque has given homes all around the world a delicate scent, giving at once a cosy ambiance and a signature smell to each home. Now the masters in candle making have embarked on dressing the rest of your living space by releasing a new collection of throw pillows, to make your home even cosier. Part of the 34 Collection, the pillows feature abstract designs, inspired by the French house’s archive prints. And bringing it all together the house has also released a collection of new candleholders to nestle your favourite scented candle in, including the Carrousel Photophore that is made up of suspended birds, which slowly turn from the heat generated from the candle. Diptyque Boutique 34 blvd Saint-Germain (5th), 01 43 26 77 44
Designer Thibault Pougeoise, who has previously worked for Estée Lauder and Bang & Olufsen, has collaborated with Habitat, the home décor specialists and has designed La Lampe Funky. The desk lamp is both a practical element as well as a fun design object that sees a simple light bulb-shaped lamp dressed in four different styles of hats, from a sunny yellow floppy hat to a red newsboy cap. The lamp is sold with the four hats, letting you dress your office or room according to your mood of the day. Habitat Boutique 8 rue du Pont Neuf (1st) 01 53 00 99 88
Empreintes Photo © Julie Auzillon; Cartier Photo © Cartier
Night Cap
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Address Book
shopping
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Accessories Acaba - 41 rue des Petits Champs (1st),
01.71.72.96.45. M° Pyramides Le Carré d’Encre - 13bis rue des Mathurins (9th), 01.53.05.81.61. M° Havre-Caumartin Leica Store - 105-109 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01. 77.72.20.70. M° Saint-Philippe du Roule Montblanc - 152 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.44.20.07.70. M° George V Swarovski - 32 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.42.65.28.10. M° Madeleine Vertu - 18 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.56.66. M° Madeleine
BeAuty spAs & products Atelier Cologne - 8 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.60.00.31. M° Concorde Ban Thai Spa - 25 ave Raymond Poincare (16th), 01.43.59.39.39. M° Trocadéro Carita - 11 Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.94.11.11. M° Concorde Elysées Shopping - 12 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.15.62. M° George V Espace Weleda - 10 ave Franklin D. Roosevelt (8th), 01.53.96.06.15. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Guerlain - 68 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.45.62.52.57. M° George V Lampe Berger Paris - 61 rue Bonaparte (6th), 01.42.02.69.78. M° Saint-Sulpice Lancôme - 29 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.65.30.74. M° Madeleine L’Artisan Parfumeur - 167 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.43.27.47.87. M° Saint-Germain-des-Près Les Comptoirs de Durance - 24 rue Vignon (9th), 01.47.42.04.10. M° Madeleine L’Occitane - 55 rue Saint-Louis en L’Ile (4th), 01.40.46.81.71. M° Pont Marie Marionnaud Paris - 104 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.96.50.00. M° George V Sephora - 70-72 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.93.22.50. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Serge Lutens - 142 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.49.27.09.09. M° Palais Royal
children’s clothing & toys Bonpoint - 6 rue de Tournon (6th),
01.40.51.98.20. M° Mabillon Jacadi - 17 rue Tronchet (8th), 01.42.65.84.98. M° Madeleine Joué Club - 3-5 blvd des Italiens (2nd), 01.53.45.41.41. M° Tuileries Kids Around - 113 ave Victor Hugo (16th), 01.45.05.19.50. M° Victor Hugo Miki House - 366 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.40.20.90.98. M° Tuileries
Guerlain
| Beauty Spas & Products
Tikibou Toy Store - 33 blvd Edgar Quinet (14th), 01.43.20.98.79. M° Edgar Quinet
clothing: Men & WoMen Akris - 49 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.20.47.49. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt BCBGMAXAZRIA -14 blvd de la Madeleine (8th), 01.43.12.55.20. M° Madeleine Beretta Gallery - 57 rue Pierre Charron (8th), 01.56.88.59.59. M° George V Boggi Milano - 38 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.40.22.99.82. M° Opéra Carven - 34 rue Saint-Sulpice (6th), 09.60.45.47.04. M° Mabillon Chanel - 31 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.50.66.00. M° Concorde Coach - 372 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Tuileries De Fursac - 34 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.53.43.05.00.M° Opéra Dior - 30 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.40.73.73.73. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt DSquared2 - 247-251 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.71.93.60.00. M° Concorde Eden Park - 11-13 rue Lobineau (6th), 01.43.25.02.25. M° Mabillon Fendi - 51 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.49.52.84.52. M° Franklin Roosevelt Gant - 41 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.86.09.65. M° Madeleine Hervé Léger - 24 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.60.02.00. M° Madeleine Karl Lagerfeld - 194 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.42.22.74.99. M° Rue du Bac Lacoste - 37 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.61.58.20. M° Opéra Lanvin- 22 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.71.31.73. M° Concorde Le Mont Saint Michel - 96 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.74.86.07. M° Filles du Calvaire Liu Jo - 182 blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.71.15.40. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Marella - 18 place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.53.30.73.13. M° Madeleine Marina Rinaldi - 20 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.86.10.90. M° Madeleine Mettez - 12 blvd Malesherbes (8th), 01.42.65.33.76. M° Madeleine Montagut - 15 place du marché Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.33.35.08. M° Pyramides Prada - 6 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.58.18.63.30. M° Madeleine Saint Laurent - 53 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.83.84.53. M° Franklin Roosevelt Thomas Pink - 19 rue François 1er (8th), 01.47.23.72.00. M° Franklin Roosevelt
Gringoire Joaillier
Tommy Hilfiger - 43 blvd des Capucines (2nd), 01.42.60.70.02. M° Madeleine Y’s Yohji Yamamoto - 25 rue du Louvre (1st), 01.42.21.42.93. M° Etienne Marcel
depArtMent stores & shopping centres Beaugrenelle - 12 rue Linois (15th), 01.53.95.24.00. M° Charles Michels
BHV Marais - 55 rue de Rivoli (1st),
09.77.40.14.00. M° Hôtel de Ville Le Bon Marché - 24 rue de Sèvres (7th), 01.44.39.80.00. M° Sèvres-Babylone Galeries Lafayette - 40 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.34.56. M° Chaussée d’Antin-La Fayette Montparnasse Rive Gauche - 22 rue du Départ (15th). M° Montparnasse - Bienvenüe One Nation Paris - 1 ave du Président Kennedy, 78340 Les Clayes sous Bois, 01.72.87.90.11 Printemps Haussmann - 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin La Vallée Village - 3 cours de la Garonne, 01.60.42.35.00. RER A4 to Val d’Europe (about 35min)
eye WeAr Francis Klein - 30 rue Bonaparte (6th),
01.44.07.04.28. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés
GrandOptical - 138 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.40.76.00.13. M° George V
JLC Opticien - 68 rue du Bac (8th), 01.45.48.58.10. M° Rue du Bac
Lafont Opticien - 17 blvd Raspail (7th), 01.45.48.24.23. M° Rue du Bac
fABrics: couture Janssens & Janssens - 3 rue d’Anjou (8th), 01.42.65.04.00. M° Concorde
hoMe Baccarat - 11 place des États-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.22. M° Boissière
Bodum - 38 ave de L’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.33.01.68. M° Opéra
Bernardaud - 11 rue Royale (8th), 01.47.42.82.66. M° Madeleine
Christofle - 9 rue Royale (8th), 01.55.27.99.13. M° Concorde
Lalique - 11 rue Royale (8th),
01.53.05.12.12. M° Madeleine Silvera - 56-58 ave Kléber (16th), 01.53.65.78.78. M° Kléber Zwilling - 12 blvd de la Madeleine (9th), 01.42.68.88.00. M° Madeleine
JeWellery & WAtches A. Lange & Söhne - 19 rue de la Paix (9th), 01.42.65.68.71. M° Opéra
| Jewellery & Watches
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shopping
Address Book
Anna Rivka - 27 rue de Richelieu (1st), 09.81.04.61.53. M° Palais Royal Angela Caputi Giuggiu - 15 Galerie Véro-Dodat (1st), 01.40.39.01.51. M° Louvre-Rivoli Arije - 3 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.60.37.77. M° Tuileries Audemars Piguet - 15 rue Royale (8th), 01.40.20.45.45. M° Concorde Boucheron - 26 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.61.58.16. M° Opéra Bucherer - 12 blvd des Capucines (9th), 01.70.99.18.88. M° Opéra Bulgari - 25 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.00.50. M° Pyramides Burma - 346 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.96.08.42. M° Tuileries Cartier - 23 place Vendôme (1st), 01.44.53.32.20. M° Opéra Césarée -11 rue du Dragon (6th), 01.45.48.86.86. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés Chanel Jewellery -18 place Vendôme (1st), 01.40.98.55.55. M° Opéra Château Euphorie - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) , 01.49.52.09.14. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Chopard - 1 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.35.20.10. M° Opéra Damiani - 19 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.96.95.51. M° Opéra de Grisogono - 358 bis rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.44.55.04.40. M° Concorde DoDo by Pomellato - 350 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.31.55. M° Tuileries Dubail - 71-73 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.64.09.90. M° George V Elysées Horlogerie - 14 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.62.45. M° George V Elysées Joaillerie - 17 rue de Berri (8th), 01.42.89.89.88. M° George V Gas Bijoux - 26-28 rue Danielle Casanova (2nd), 01.42.97.58.80. M° Opéra Gringoire Joaillier - 32 ave Matignon (8th), 01.77.37.05.05. M° Saint-Philippe-du-Roule Gucci Watches - Printemps Haussmann (1st floor), 64 bd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.78.74. M° Havre-Caumartin Harry Winston - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.47.20.03.09. M° Opéra Hublot - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.86.67.86. M° Opéra Mellerio dits Meller - 9 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.42.61.57.53. M° Opéra Omega - 362/364 rue Saint-Honoré (2nd), 01.55.35.03.60. M° Concorde Panerai - 5 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.44.51.50.50. M° Concorde Parmigiani - 125-126 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.13.93.93. M° Palais-Royal
Chopard
Pasquale Bruni - Printemps Haussmann
(1st floor), 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.50.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Patek Philippe - 10 place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.44.17.77. M° Tuileries Piaget - 7 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.62.37.00. M° Opéra Richard Mille - 17 ave Matignon (8th), 01.40.15.10.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Rolex - 9 place Vendôme (1st) , 01.40.20.21.00. M° Opéra Tasaki - Ritz Paris, 15 Place Vendôme (1st), 01.42.36.33.00. M° Opéra Tiffany&Co. - 6 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.40.20.20.20. M° Opéra Tissot Boutique - 76 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.56.18.53. M° George V Tous Bijoux - 266 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.76.00.30.91. M° Palais Royal Van Cleef & Arpels - 22 place Vendôme (1st), 01.55.04.11.11. M° Opéra Vhernier - 63 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.93.15. M° Miromesnil Wempe - 16 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.21.77. M° Concorde
Louis Quatorze - 106 rue Vieille du Temple (3rd), 01.42.72.94.43. M° Filles du Calvaire
Louis Vuitton - 101 ave des Champs-Élysées (8th), 01.53.57.52.00. M° George V
Moynat- 348 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.47.03.83.90. M° Tuileries
Mulberry - 275 rue Saint-Honoré (8th),
01.42.60.00.64. M° Concorde Pinel & Pinel - 22 rue Royale (8th), 01.42.60.58.39. M° Madeleine Prada - 10 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.23.99.40. M° Alma Marceau Tumi - 245 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.45.79.70.30.M° Concorde
Multi-BrAnd BoutiQues
lingerie
Citadium - 56 rue de Caumartin (9th), 01.55.31.74.00. M° Havre-Caumartin Colette - 213 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.55.35.33.90. M° Tuileries L’Eclaireur - 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.62.12.32. M° George V Merci - 111 blvd Beaumarchais (3rd), 01.42.77.00.33. M° Saint Sébastien-Froissard Montaigne Market - 57 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.42.56.58.58. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Agent Provocateur - 12 rue Cambon (1st),
shoes
01.42.61.79.54. M° Madeleine Cadolle - 4 rue Cambon (1st) , 01.42.60.94.22. M° Madeleine Chantal Thomass - 211 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.40.56. M° Tuileries La Perla - 20 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.43.12.33.50. M° Concorde
luggAge And BAgs
Cesaire - 6 rue Saint-Florentin (1st), 01.42.97.43.43. M° Concorde/Madeleine Coach - 372-374 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.86.02.39. M° Madeleine Delvaux - 151-154 Galerie de Valois (1st), 09.67.19.93.28. M° Palais Royal Dot-Drops - 8 rue des Canettes (6th), 01.43.54.62.15. M° Mabillon Fauré Le Page - 21 rue Cambon (1st), 09.82.50.92.30. M° Madeleine Goyard - 233 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.60.57.04. M° Tuileries Hedgren - 49 rue Cambon (1st), 01.42.36.36.97. M° Madeleine Hermès - 24 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.40.17.47.17. M° Concorde Lancel - 127 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.56.89.15.70. M° George V Longchamp - 404 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.43.16.00.16. M° Concorde
| Jewellery & Watches
Altan Bottier - 11 rue Lincoln (8th), 01.45.63.77.59. M° George V
Arche - 11 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01.40.15.91.85. M° Madeleine
Cesare Paciotti - 12 ave Montaigne (8th),
01.47.23.75.57. M° Alma Marceau Berluti - 26 rue Marbeuf (8th), 01.53.93.97.97. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Christian Louboutin - 68 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.42.68.37.65. M° Madeleine Crockett & Jones – 14 rue Chauveau-Lagarde (8th), 01.44.94.01.74. M° Madeleine Edward Green – 199 bis blvd Saint-Germain (7th), 01.53.63.47.50. M° Rue du Bac Galet – 8 rue de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.54.56.24. M° Odéon Jimmy Choo –34 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.03.39. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt J.M. Weston – 46 rue des Archives (4th), 01.48.04.75.65. M° Rambuteau Paraboot - 9 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.45.49.24.26. M° Saint-Sulpice Repetto - 22 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.44.71.83.12. M° Opéra Robert Clergerie - 5 rue du Cherche-Midi (6th), 01.45.48.75.47. M° Rennes Tod’s - 21 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.16.16. M° Concorde
Pinel & Pinel
| Luggage and Bags
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LUXURY MAP Vendôme SHOP STOP
Gare Saint-Lazare
TRINITÉ D’ESTIENNE D’ORVES
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247-251 rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 86 54 66 www.dsquared2.com
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With a renowned reputation for quality and Italian craftsmanship, Dsquared2 designs, manufactures and distributes highly desirable products such as men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, leather goods, shoes, eyewear and fragrances for men and women.
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Lancel
• • • Samsonite • BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS •Maty •Basler
•
Les Marquis
2
L’Occitane
OPÉRA
AN
•Gant • •
Bucherer
Montblanc
•
•
• Episode
Golfino
ES
SHOP STOP
RUE MOG ADOR
•
Sephora
• Fragonard
CAUM
RUE
INS
RUE BOUDREA U
N
GOD
OT D
RUE
EM
VIGN
AUR
ON
OY
CH ON TR
Opéra Garnier
RU
1 rue Aubert - Paris 9th (M° Opéra) Tel: +33 (0)1 44 94 01 73 www.lanadicapra.com
CHAUSSÉE D’ANTIN - LA FAYETTE
Uniqlo •
RU
J.M. Weston•
HUR
RUE
LANA DI CAPRA Lana Di Capra’s boutique in Place de l’Opéra is where you will find the designer’s world of cashmere. Discover the elegant handmade collection, which offers shoppers 180 colours to choose from.
MAT
Exaltation Lana di Capra
Mario Dessuti
•Zwilling
BOULEVARD DE LA MADELEINE
MADELEINE
DES
R
E
RUE
BE
RU
•
• Loding
Église de la Madeleine
Galeries Lafayette Coupole
ARD HAU Lafayette SSM ANN Maison&Gourmet
Le Carré d’Encre
Le Tanneur
CE
GR
S
U EA
Paraboot• • Eres
LEV
•
RU
SHOP STOP
Galeries Lafayette Homme
Andrea
T
LE
URIN
IBE
ATH
ES CR
ES M
RU
DE CA RU ED
RUE
’AR
ET
R
UE
L DE
P R O V EN
• Moda di
RU E JO UB ER
IS
Guerlain •
RUE DE
•
VICTOIRE
ADOR
Printemps Beauté-Maison
Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann offers a large selection of items in every segment, from fashion to accessories, beauty, interior decoration and fine food. Located in the heart of Paris nearby the Opera, the 70,000 square-meter flagship store, symbol of the Parisian elegance, offers more than 3,500 brands from affordable to the most prestigious references.
LA RUE DE R U E JO U B ER T
Printemps Mode
MOG
Printemps Homme
RUE
RU E DU HA VR
GALERIES LAFAYETTE PARIS HAUSSMANN
40 boulevard Haussmann – Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 82 36 40 haussmann.galerieslafayette.com/en/
Galeries du Diamant •
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Rue Saint-Honoré / Palais Royal
la Concorde
rist Ch
•
ofle •
CONCORDE
•
Lanvin Carita • Berluti • Panerai
RUE ROYALE
•
RUE SAINT-FLORENTIN
•
•
•
Le Jacquard Français
MA
an Ch
EV
INES
APUC
DES C
RUE
RUE DANIELLE CASANOVA
L’O
• Kam’s
Palais Royal
Galerie de Montpensier
• • • • • • • • re Ha rto Delv rdy Se Mo aux rg lte e Ri Lu do Ma ck O tens iso we n n Ste Pa Fab s lla rmi re Mc gia Ca ni rtn ey
•
Pie r
Co
RUE CROI X DES PETI TS CHAM
RUE DU LOUVR E
•
•
All Saints Y’s
•
•
• •
Christian Louboutin
Hartford
Bonpoint IRO
R
Gerard Darel Kenzo Les petites
KI
by Terry Xavier Lust
Maje
OU
• • •
Place des Victoires
PS
’AB
Galerie Véro-Dodat
0039 Italy
ED
Eric Philippe Angela Caputi Il Bisonte
RUE VIVIENNE
• • • •
RUE DE RIVOLI Musée du Louvre
• De Fursac
RU
Carrousel du Louvre 99 rue de Rivoli – Paris 1st Tel : 01 76 77 41 00 www.printemps.com
RUE DE VALOIS Francesco Russo
A
RUE RICHELIEU
RUE RICHELIEU
RUE DE LA FEUILLADE
PRINTEMPS DU LOUVRE
UE
ÉR
Acaba •
Galerie de Valois
Printemps is entering the Carrousel du Louvre with a 2,500 sqm new store entirely dedicated to luxury. Discover this new area celebrating the famous French know-how in the heart of the Louvre Museum and showcasing the most prestigious accessories, beauty, watches and jewellery brands. Open 7 days a week, even on Sundays.
EN
’OP
• PYRAMIDES
de iso l’A n m br e •D id •A ier n •Q L na ee ud Riv lin ot ka
• Ma
PALAIS ROYAL
ES
• RedLine Printemps du Louvre
E
DE
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•
AV
E NU
PU
•
AV
L DE
RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS
FreyWille
SHOP STOP
OPÉRA Kusmi Tea
Lamarthe
RUE DES PYRAMIDES
•Nodus •Tous •Shiatzy Chen RA •Aésop PÉ
Vivienne • Westwood
Opéra Garnier
•
RUE SAINT-ROCH
•Cotélac
CA
RUE DE LA PA IX
ONORÉ
ONORÉ
Carrousel du Louvre
RUE S A IN T -H
41 rue des Petits Champs - Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 71 72 96 45 www.acaba.fr
ES
Vendôme
•Dodo Church’s• •Baldinini Paule Ka • •Moynat TUILERIES •Lyubov Jack Russell • • Perrin • Burma •Stuart Weitzman Ami • • Balenciaga Missoni• Montagut Kiehl’s • • Place du Marché • Saint-Honoré Barbara Rihl • • Saint Honoré Colette •M.A.C Chantal Thomass • Notify• Penhaligon’s • Peuterey • • Paraboot La Prairie • The Kooples •
DD
Place
Goyard •
•Dubail
AR
•
RUE S A IN T -H
RUE DE RIVOLI
UL
IG LI ON E
BO
RUE SAINT- HONOR É
SHOP STOP
ACABA
NE
•
LEI
el
DE
CA MB ON
Jamin Puech Hedgren
RU E CA MB ON Max&Moi • • • RU E • Tom Ford Roberto Cavalli • • CA MB ON •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger • Messika• Tommy • Coach Morabito• Hilfiger • Alexander McQueen Chloé• Brioni • Ports • •Emporio Armani 2 DsQuared • •Marc Jacobs Tumi• •Miki House Arije Bally • J.M. • • Wine Weston Chopard RU E CA ST by One •
12 blvd de la Madeleine - Paris 9th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 68 88 00 www.zwilling.com
At Acaba, Claire Gros welcomes you to help you find the gloves that will suit you. Design, lining, color, leather, all of this can also be combined for a special order. The 2015 collection comes up with bicolored lined or unlined, very classic close to quite specials. 11am to 7pm. Closed on Sunday.
• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling • Lipault
LA
Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi• Parakian Paris •RU E
RUE TRONC HET
•Eres • Carel • Swarovski
Marella
DE
Césaire
Église de la Madeleine
•
■
MADELEINE
•
Jeu de Paume
RUE ROYALE • •Vertu Wempe • Lancaster • Tory Burch • Max Mara
• Oliver Grant
VD
Jardin des Tuileries
RUE DE RIVOLI
■
•Lanvin •La Perla •Ermanno Scervino •Prada Chanel Gucci Dior • ••
BL
This German house has been producing premium kitchenware for nearly three centuries. Stainless steel knives and cookware, cast iron cocottes as well as fine flatware collections are among the offerings for consumers who seek the authentic and emotional experience of cooking and taste. Quality and functionality are the hallmarks of the house.
Musée de l’Orangerie
RUE SAINT-HONORÉ
ZWILLING
Poiray • Michael Kors • Mulberry • Valentino
Burberry
•
Espace Cachemire
•
RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
•
Place de
RUE DU FBG SAINT-HONORÉ
SHOP STOP
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ph. alessandrobencini.com
LUXURY MAP
Champs-Élysées-Montaigne
SANO
LLOT
•
NUE
OT
E
• Cartier
Montblanc
• Swarovski • GrandOptical RUE BALZAC
Kenzo
•
•
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
1 ER
ÇOIS
FRAN
RUE
DOR
OCCA
DU B
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
RUE
EJ
EA
NG
OU
JO
N
RU
EJ
EA
ALBERT
NG OU JO N
1ER
AVE
N
RA UE F
WA
• Marionnaud Paris • Marks&Spencer RUE
DE B ERR Elysées I Shopping
Elysées Joaillerie
•
•M.A.C. •Levi’s •Furla •Tissot • Sephora • Guerlain • Mauboussin • Tiffany RUE
LA B
OÉT
IE
• Chanel • J.M. Weston • RUE DU
• •
Elysées Horlogerie
RUE DE PONTHIEU
RU
COURS
OOS
Elie Saab • LIN D.R NK
RUE
Swatch SHINGTO N • Tag Heuer
CO
LIS Disney ÉE
• Quicksilver Château Euphorie
•Galerie 26
•Adidas • Banana Republic • Weleda • Les Champs d’Or AVEN
UE M
FRANKLIN D.ROOSEVELT
ATIG
NON
NFÉRENCE
19 rue François 1er - Paris 8th Tel: +33(0)1 47 23 72 00 www.thomaspink.com
•
CH
GEORGE V Louis • IKKS Vuitton•
U
CEA
Armani Collezioni JP Gaultier PIER • GE V • Lacoste • RE 1 ER DE S OR Omega • ERB E GE U IE N Eric Bompard• AVE • Bvlgari Ellie • Dubail • Zegna • Longchamp Saab U Leonard Stefano Ricci •Ulysse Nardin • • EA C • • R A Christofle Creed M Altan Bottier RUE UE Les Suites • EN • AV Arije• • PIE• RRE CHA Cartier •Givenchy Kusmi RRO • Audemars Scabal N Tea • • Chaumet Piguet •EORGE V Beretta G E Dubail U • N De Fursac Paule Ka E • Burma• AV • Sicis • RUE Carvil Franck • RUE MARB• EUF P •Tom Ford IER•R Namani EC JLC Opticien • HAR • Zilli RUE •Balenciaga RON DE L Guy Laroche • Kiton • A TR R • Vionnet É U M By Marie&Gas Bijoux E M• • Smalto OILL A E Diane Von Berluti • RBEUFWolford • Furstenberg • Balmain Karl Graf • • • •Courrèges Lagerfeld ALMA MARCEAU Zadig&Voltaire • Caron• Valentino Davidor • Wine by One • • AVE • Thomas • Harry N UE M Bonbon Watch • Pink Giorgio Armani Winston O • Prada• • NTAIGN • Brunello IGNAN Lampe Berger E Dior E MAR Cesare Paciotti Cucinelli• Paris RUE D • Joseph• • Nina Ricci • Giorgio Armani • FRANKLIN • Maison Ullens Louis Vuitton D.ROOSEVELT • Versace Dior • AVE •Salvatore Ferragamo NU • Akris Chanel Dior • E MON • Givenchy TAIGN • Fendi • Chanel • E • • Saint Laurent Dinh • Céline Loewe•• Van Pucci • •Marni Ralph Lauren •• • Chloé •• Dolce&Gabbana Gucci Jil Sander LT Blumarine EVE PORT DE LA CO
THOMAS PINK Created in London on the mythical Jermyn Street, this shirt maker draws its inspiration from the legendary 18th century tailor Thomas Pink. It proffers an exceptional line of shirts and accessories and offers a semi-tailoring service for your shirts. Thomas Pink is a modern house, offbeat, bringing together quality, originality and a way with details in the purest of British traditions.
HO
• Milady
AR
EM
E AV
AVE
SHOP STOP
RN EN AV
U CEA
Dinh Van • Hugo Boss
AV EN U
RUE
E BAS
Lancel •
EM AR
E
JEAN GIRAUDOUX
RUE D
UE
CHARLES DE GAULLE-ÉTOILE
NA D’IÉ
N
AVE
EN
ND
ALILÉ
N
A EDL
RUE G
NA
NU
18 rue Marbeuf - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 58 12 06 72 www.jlcopticien.com
E
NU AVE
’IÉ UE D
AHO
FRI
Galerie-Musée Baccarat
AC M
DE
■
M NUE
AVENUE DE WAGRAM
Publicis Drugstore •
RUE DE CHAI
In the heart of “Le triangle d’or” which is THE area in Paris for luxury shopping, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from the best brands such as Dita, Thom Browne, Mykita, Dior, Chanel, Oliver Peoples and more...
AVE
E
SHOP STOP
JLC OPTICIEN LUNETIER
N
Place des États-Unis
11 rue Lincoln - Paris 8th Tel: 01 45 63 77 59 www.altan-bottier.com
Arc de Triomphe
AVENUE DES CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES
ALILÉ
GO
NUE AVE
RUE G
HU
AV
DOUX
Superb quality, fine craftsmanship and personalisation are the hallmarks of this house of made-to-measure shoes for both men and women. The house creates, as well, a fine line of ready-to wear models among them derbies, moccasins and sneakers. Mon-Sat 10:30am-7pm.
H
ALTAN BOTTIER
ISTO
AVENUE KLÉBER
RUE JEAN GIRAU
Fabio Caviglia•
LAUR
FOC
RUE
CA
NUE
AV Marina • ENUE VIC Rinaldi TOR
UE
AVE
AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMÉE
SHOP STOP
NUE
AVE
IN NKL
LT
EVE
OOS
D.R
FRA
Grand Palais
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FRANKLIN D. ROOSEVELT
Leica •
OÉT IE
AB OÉT
IL
IE
NORÉ
OÉT
S
SAINT-AUGUSTIN
UÉP
AU SSM AN N
UÉP
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AL
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RUE D
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U FAU
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RUE D S
PASSAGE
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•
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INES
APUC
Omega•
•
Bucherer
UC
• Tag Heuer • Samsonite • Bonbon Watch Basler • INE
S
DES C
AP
Lacoste •
SC
RUE
DE
Hackett •
RD
RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ
EVA
Place Vendôme
UL
•
•
Tommy Hilfiger
BO
Wine by One
IG LI O
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•
EIN
F Le auré Pa ge Ch an el
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•
RU E CA M BO
RUE D
MA
Lavinia
LA
RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ
T H U R IN
RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HO
ES MA
RUE SAI NT- HON ORÉ
RUE D
•Guerlain
DE
RUE DU MONT-THABOR
S
• BCBGMaxazria • Zwilling
•Tom Ford N • • •Jimmy Choo Hervé Léger • Coach • Alexander McQueen • Emporio Armani • Marc Jacobs • Miki House
NE • Burma Ciro pour
T H U R IN
RUE TRONCHET
• Eres • Swarovski
Lauren Église de la Madeleine • Lancaster • •Furla Marella • • Max Mara Kenzo
RD
R U E CA ST
MADELEINE
• •• •Wempe Ralph•
VA
• Roberto Cavalli Messika • Morabito • Chloé • Ports 1961• DsQuared2 • Tumi • J.M. • Arije Weston •
Yamamoto
L ’A R C
ULE
•
Atelier Cologne Hublot • Chronopassion • Fendi •
RUE DE
Oliver Grant
BO
Valentino •
RUE SAINT-FL ORENTIN
Césaire•
ES MA
NORÉ
AVE NU E GA BR IEL
DH
RUE
CONCORDE
RUE DE RIVOLI
32 ave Matignon - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 77 37 05 05 www.h-gringoire.fr
’
RG
•
•
• Royal Poiray Quartz Furla• Michael Kors • Mulberry •
RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS
•
Ch
RUE ROYALE
• Yohji
Founded in Paris in 1880, the fine jewellery house of Gringoire Joaillier has opened an elegant boutique in the heart of the Golden Triangle. The two-story venue showcases the collections of the house, contemporary and refined creations in which sparkling stones illuminate rings, bracelets, earrings, necklaces and pendants.
ED
O AST
BLV
INE RU
S
Lanvin La Perla Ermanno Scervino Longines Prada Escales Pinko Chanel Dior Gucci
• •• • • • •
Lanvin
Jardin des Tuileries
GRINGOIRE JOAILLIER
MANN
AB
IE
C
E
ÉS
EL
RU
ÉR
RU
SA
AC
ROQ
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B AM
•
t ue • Pig n • rs rgo ma eu d de H au • Au ard ue • rn Be Laliq e • fl to ris
Place de la Concorde
3 rue d’Anjou - Paris 8th (Corner 46 Fbg Saint-Honoré) Tel: +33 (0)1 42 65 04 00 www.janssensparis.com
SHOP STOP
R D H A U SS
IE
RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ
EL
ESN
RUE DE SURÈNE
JANSSENS & JANSSENS In the very heart of the Faubourg St-Honoré discover more than 3,000 different clothing fabrics, all extraordinary, and many used by haute couture designers. Owner Françoise Janssens can also recommend one of 40 local seamstresses.
B O U LE VA
RU
OM
• Sotheby’s G TOR • Chopard D ’A S RUE •Sonia Rykiel • Poiray Alberta Ferretti• • Christian Louboutin Apostrophe • • Pomellato • Opera Gallery Bui • Barbara RUE D’AGU ESSEA U • •Bally •55 Croisette •Burberry Capelstore •Brunello Cucinelli Hogan • Ermenegildo U Zegna ’A N J O Roger Vivier • • • RUE D D’ANJOU RUE Valentino • Janssens Mettez Heurgon • Jitrois & Janssens Les Porsche Design • • Saint Laurent Dandys • • Crockett Chanel • Boucheron • &Jones Tod’s • • Givenchy IE R U Q S A • RUE P Cartier • Burberry • • Hermès RUE BOISSY D’ANGLAS ADE Frette •
IL
IL
RUE
NT-HO
ESN
RE
G SAI
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IÈV
RU E DE DU RA
ESN
IE
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• Miu-Miu • RUE D Caron ES
• Loriblu
OM
OÉT
MIR
TH
RUE DE L’ÉLYSÉE
SHOP STOP
RU
E ED
EN
RU
E ED
SA
Élysée Palace
MIR
EP
16 rue Royale - Paris 8th Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 21 77 www.wempe.fr
RU
E ED
ED
•
AVENUE DE MARIGNY
É
Gringoire Joaillier
•
Pierre Cardin
UE
SS
RU
WEMPE The renowned German watchmaker has been satisfying customers for over 135 years. Featuring a fine selection of stylish jewellery, luxury watches and chronometers.
EN
CA
AB
Rimowa• Mugler • RUE Azzaro • DU C IRQU Vhernier E • F.P. Journe
AV
L DE
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RU
EN
AB
AVE
•Richard Mille Steiger Cifonelli MATIGNON • • AVE NUE MATIGNON Puiforcat Baccarat• • AV
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•
RU
• Christie’s
MIROMESNIL
• Emanuel Berg • Sothys
ES
SHOP STOP
RUE DU FAUBOURG SAINT-HONORÉ
Faubourg Saint-Honoré
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BV
SHOP STOP
UR E T E D T
• DE
YM E
T RU E CH AR LO
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S M IN E
TEMP
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TO NG E
VIEIL
RUE
RU E DE SA IN
RUE DE THORIGNY
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RUE DES ARC HIV ES
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EL LE R U E D EB
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MA
Centre Pompidou
AU
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•
RUE SA
RC RO YA L
IN T -G IL
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VI GN É RU E SÉ
VIEIL
RUE PAY ENN E
RUE
▼
RUE PAVEE
RUE VIEILLE DU TEMPLE
•
ARLEM
AGNE
Village Saint Paul ■
•Pierre Boisset
• Melodies Graphiques • Calligrane PONT MARIE
RUE SAINT-PAUL
RUE DU PONT LOUIS- PHILIPPE
RUE CH
RUE DU FAUCONNIER
RUE DU TEMPLE
RUE DE LOBAU
É
DE TURENNE
S É V IG N
SAINT-PAUL Sentou
MIRON
Papier+ • Bénédikt Aïchelé Joaillier •
RUE
RUE
FR
Place des Vosges
Bobby Brown Kiehl’s Swatch M.A.C
RUE
R
HOTEL DE VILLE
ANÇOIS
LHE
RIVOLI RUE DE
MA
•
À l'Olivier
RUE
•
Millen Karen i Parma Acqua d ue Diptyq in Guerla
Mi-Mai • Perry •FredRUE BARBETTE Ambali • • Jamin Puech Manoush • Musée Cognacq-Jay Aesol ■ The Slowear Store • • ➞ Claudie Pierlot Marionnaud Paris RUE DES Penhaligon’s FRANCS BO Musée • Chanel URGEOIS • • • •Esteban Pandora • Carhartt Carnavalet Fragonard • • • Ted Baker ■ Repetto • • • RU•E DES FRANCS BOUR Axes GEOIS •• •• ➞ • Iro Michael • • • Essentiel Femme •• • Lancel Kors Uniqlo Aubade • J.M. Weston Eres a Ekyog• •TEA RUE DES BLA NCS MAN d a e UX So • iT rry Bimba y Lola th& m Fusalp • • • co Pe us Maje • S Devernois • K ed • r Maison Alain Mikli L’Argenterie • •F Créa Concept Francis Kurkdjian Wolford • • R U E D ES Cos de Turenne Lipault RO • • SIERS • • Heschung• • • • Moustaches Thomas All Saints RUE DU PLATRE Durance Cire DE JARENTE Ugg Sabo • Paule Ka RUEMasha Huygens Sandro• Trudon • K.Jacques • • • J.Crew RUE STE CROIX DE LA BRETONNERIE • Thierry •Carven Keja • Gucci• •John Galliano • Lacoste • •Mode en Villenave Nike Fleux RUE D'ORMESSON Givenchy Karl Demeure • Crockett • • BHV Marais • Valentino & • RUE DU ROI •DE SICILE • Le l’Homme Jones Lagerfeld Moncler • Fendi • Chevignon E • T- AN TO IN • RU E SA IN Paraboot RUE DE LA VERRERI E Psyché
Le BHV Marais
16 rue du Bourg-Tibourg - Paris 4th Tel: +33 (0)9 67 82 84 30 www.crockettandjones.com
Gloss
E
RU E DE LA
•
A reference for almost 140 years among Goodyear welted shoe lovers, the english luxury brand for mens and ladies is committed to maintaining the highest standards of traditional craftsmanship, and custom-made service.
•
• Merci • OUX Atelier Oska • UX CH Ami • NT A • • Lords&Fools U PO Cologne French UE D SAINT-SÉBASTIEN R Sandro• Tom Greyhound • Trotters • FROISSART • Maison Labiche Florian Robinson Christophe • • P O IT O U Denicourt DE Les Bains A U D E• Lemaire RUE • Saint James •-CL • Pas de Jack Gomme • A I N T • Calais • APC S E Stephane Sonia U Marcel by R Wooyoungmi Verdino • Rykiel Cheap • • Customellow • Monday Nice• • Louis Quatorze Eclectic • Things Vanessa Bruno •Mr • Bonastre •Fred Marzo • Les Petites • Musée Aux Trésors Le Mont Saint Michel • National de Babeth Magnanni • Picasso RU E DE S 4 • La Fée Maraboutée FI LS •Consuelo Zoelly
RIVOLI RUE DE
CROCKETT & JONES
APC
ENN
SHOP STOP
Nicolaï
Maison
• Kitsune • Melinda
TUR
82 rue des Tournelles - Paris 3rd Metro: Chemin Vert Tel: +33 (0)6 48 62 47 74 Instagram: aux_tresors_de_babeth
S
White Bird • Bonton•
E E D
AUX TRÉSORS DE BABETH A few steps away from the place des Vosges. Cosy vintage boutique: luxury costume jewellery, accessories and women's clothing. Chanel, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, YSL. First class shopping. English and Spanish spoken. Delivery at your hotel and worldwide shipping.
UD RI ET TE
• Betjman & Barton • Moulin Roty • Pierre Meurgey
RE
RU
RU E DE S HA
AI
BE
E
SHOP STOP
ENN
•
Le Slip Français
LV
T O IS S A R RUE FR • de Cuisse • Le Labo grenouille
TUR
•
RUE PASTOURELLE
E E D
État Libre d'Orange Paul Smith
RU
•
CA
D
RU E DE PI CA
D
S DU
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N 13 Bonaparte Bellerose • OR• M AN
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Liquides • April 77
JLC Opticien
106 rue Vieille du Temple - Paris 3rd Tel: +33 (0)1 42 72 94 43 www.louisquatorzeparis.fr
FILLES DU CALVAIRE
ES
COM
E
• Ron Dorff IE March La.B • Mes Demoiselles • • RU E DE BR ET AG NE Popelini •
LOUIS QUATORZE
ILL
BV
RU E DE CA FF
RU
Empreintes
Louis Quatorze is a luxury leather goods brand that is inspired by French elegance, refinement and nobility. It is the 17th century that the house references with its modern and practical bags, which are handcrafted.
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A mystic perfume store to wake up all your senses. Iunx is a true universe on its own on the Left Bank in Paris, dedicated to its own creative fragrances for a true olfactory experience. Open from Tuesday to Saturday, 11.30 am to 7 pm.
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In the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, JLC Opticien Lunetier offers you a very personalized service and a large selection of high end, fashionable and chic eyewear from luxury brands such as Oliver Peoples, Eyevan, Barton Perreira, Lindberg, Thom Browne and more...
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DOT-DROPS® is the brand of choice for the “happy few” of elite travellers. The philosophy of the French manufacturer is to continuously strive to achieve harmony between design and functionality. DOTDROPS® creations are a solid marriage of colours, design and unexpected materials. Exclusive: you can customize your suitcase at the boutique and make your travel experience unique!
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THE CHOCOLATIER OF KINGS Founded in 1800, supplier to the Kings of France, we offer more than 40 varieties of chocolates, from old-fashioned pralines to the creamy raspberry or coffee-flavoured ganache. Aficionados will love our chocolate bars made from different varieties of chocolate beans and orange rind.
30 Rue des Saints Pères - 75007 Paris - Tél 01 45 48 54 67 - M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés 33 Rue Vivienne - 75002 Paris - M° Bourse
www.debauve-et-gallais.fr
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The Guide
arts& attractions By Patricia Valicenti
Visit the Galerie Azzedine Alaïa and take in the fashion photography exhibition, Entre l’art et la mode (opposite page)
Dancers, 1930 / František Drtikol © Courtesy The Museum of Decorative Arts in Prague – Ruzena Knotkova
Galleries | Monuments | Museums | Exhibits | Day Trips | Boat Trips | Guided Tours
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Exhibitions
Fabulous Photographs A sublime exhibition devoted to fashion photography is being played out at the Galerie Azzedine Alaïa. Entitled Entre l’art et la mode: la collection Carla Sozzani (Between Art and Fashion: the Carla Sozzani Collection), the show brings together an astonishing variety of photographs whose theme is fashion but whose form is art. The exuberance of Marilyn Monroe captured by Richard Avedon, the dazzling portraits, seemingly painted, by Cecil Beaton, and the sculptural hands of Horst, all examples of the works of art exhibited. The pictures emanate from the eclectic collection of Carla Sozzani and were selected by Fabrice Hergott, the director of the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris. The gallery-owner, Carla Sozzani, has played an eminent role in fashion, photography, art and design since the 1970s. Born in Mantua, Italy, one of the leading centres of the Renaissance, she has been the editor-in-chief of all of the special issues of Italian Vogue and founded the Italian edition of Elle. Showing all month 18 rue de la Verrerie (4th), 01 42 33 93 18
Entre l’art et la mode: Nude with shadow pattern, 1948 / Louise Dahl-Wolfe © Courtesy Staley-Wise Gallery, New York. Galarie Sakura; Bamby - Happy Meal
Dancers, 1930 / František Drtikol © Courtesy The Museum of Decorative Arts in Prague – Ruzena Knotkova
arts&attractions
Joyful Juxtapositions A thoroughly fun and inventive show is being held at the Galerie Sakura in the heart of the Marais. Entitled Décalage Immédiat, roughly meaning just out of kilter, the show presents photographs, often whimsical, often steeped in social commentary, in which personalities, venues and scenes are featured in surprising juxtapositions. Among the astonishing visuals on display are cars without tyres gliding a few metres from the ground, the Barbie table football with Barbies decked out in pink as players, a plant with its leaves in hair rollers, the “Happy Breakfast” of characters with fish heads eating at a restaurant counter and Dalmatians in hooded sweat shirts. The intriguing show brings together some 200 works from 36 international artists. Showing all month 21 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (4th) 01 73 77 45 69
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Olwen Forest JEWELLERY of ThE STaRS
Olwen Forest, a woman of vision, invites you to see her collection of vintage artist jewellery worn yesterday, and sought after today by famous stars and celebrities. Coco Chanel, Schiaparelli, Joseff of Hollywood, Hermès Gentlemen will be dazzled by the extremely rare cocktail accessories from the 1930s. Marché Serpette - allée 3, stand 5/7 110 rue des rosiers, 93400 St-Ouen (Metro: porte de clignancourt) Open : Saturday, Sunday, Monday
Tel: 01 40 11 96 38
www.olwenforest.com
Galerie TaménaGa IMPRESSIONIST, MODERN & CONTEMPORARY ART Exhibition: Lorenzo FERNANDEZ
Lorenzo Fernández, Homenaje Oil and acrylic on panel, 100 x 96 cm MODERN MASTERS: Cézanne, Renoir, Redon, Bonnard, Dufy, Gris, Klee, Kisling, Picasso, Rouault, Soutine, Van Dongen, Vlaminck, Buffet,... CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS: Aïzpiri, Bardone, Cottavoz, Christopher, Cassigneul, Chen, Fusaro, Fernandez, Nakamura, Takehiko Sugawara, Tchinai, Sano,... 18 avenue Matignon, Paris 8th M° Franklin D. Roosevelt Tel: 01 42 66 61 94 / www.tamenaga.com
The haunting and humane works of French artist Thomas LévyLasne are being showcased at Backlash, a contemporary art gallery. Elements of classical painting are combined with current themes and the banality of everyday life in his figurative works, which are executed in myriad mediums including oil on canvas, watercolours, pencil and charcoal on both small and monumental formats. The title of the show, La Fragilité (Fragility) echoes the current uncertain state of affairs, the new world to which we must adapt. There is a series in oil on canvas of serious young girls dressed up as princesses, a succession of watercolours depicting parties taking a look at a festive but fragile generation, a tattoo artist with an intense expression and there are landscapes as well like a sunset polluted with artificial colours. Through to December 29 29 rue Notre-Dame de Nazareth (3rd), 09 81 39 60 01
Thomas Lévy-Lasne, Fête 68, 2016 Courtesy of the artist & Backslash
Handle with Care
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Antoni Tàpies Cama azul,1968, Sand and mixed media on canvas, 130 x 195 cm
62 rue du faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris • T. + 33 (0)1 42 96 39 00 • paris@operagallery.com Mon - Sat 10 am - 7.30 pm & Sun 11 am - 7 pm
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WHERE PARIS PROMOTION
THE MOVIE MACHINES and was used for shooting widescreen movies through to the digital age of the 1990s. The displays highlight how each technique gave rise to completely new creations for the progressive refinement of film, cameras, projectors, microphones, tape players, objectives and sensors go hand in hand with the evolution of film imagery.
La Cinémathèque française is hosting a temporary exhibition covering the range of machines and techniques used in the making of movies from the beginnings of cinema to the present. Entitled De Méliès à la 3D: La Machine Cinéma, (From Méliès to 3D, the Cinema Machine), the show, conceived and produced by La Cinémathèque française, is a journey into the techniques used by filmmakers from the end of the 19th century to the present. La Cinémathèque française possesses one of the finest collections of objects, works and documents pertaining to cinema in the world and projectors, cameras and materials used in the studios and laboratories along with archives and rare films are revealed throughout the visit.
Unique pieces and displays are on the agenda like the very first cameras used by French pioneers, Etienne-Jules Marey, the Lumière brothers and Georges Méliès. Projectors, too, are on hand, some functioning like the one used for the film The Jazz Singer, released in 1927, whose sound is audible to the visitor. The show also shows how digital has
The show explores the major stages in the history and development of the movies including 19th century chronophotography, the predecessor to cinematography and moving film, to the talkies, which made their appearance in 1927, Technicolor in 1932 and the CinemaScope, which emerged in 1953
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deeply modified the making of movies notably with the progressive disappearance of 35mm film while at the same time opening up new perspectives including a future in which movies will be immersive and interactive.
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La Cinémathèque française’s collections include over 40,000 films with some 40 films projected each week in the establishment’s four movie theatres and a host of activities including conferences and master classes are organised around the projection programmes.
The exhibition is showing through to January 29th 51 rue de Bercy (12th), 01 71 19 33 33
Buster Keaton in The Cameraman by Edward Sedgwick and Buster Keaton, MGM, 1928. Photo Clarence Sinclair Bull/ Collections Cinémathèque française/ DR (left); Jean-Luc Godard and Raoul Coutard with the Caméflex, and Jean Seberg and Jean-Paul Belmondo on the set of À bout de souffle (Breathless, 1959) Photo Raymond Cauchetier © Raymond Cauchetier (right)
Brigitte Bardot et Michel Piccoli. Le Mépris de Jean-Luc Godard (1963) - photo Ghislain Dussart / DR
Brigitte Bardot et Michel Piccoli. Le Mépris de Jean-Luc Godard (1963) - photo Ghislain Dussart / DR
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inema remains a highly technical art, born out of and reposing upon science and since its inception has been an astounding blend of technology and creativity. The images and sounds of the movies are not just the work of the artists, but also that of machines, optical techniques, chemistry and electronics.
La Ci temporar machine of movie present. E Cinéma, ( Machine) by La Cin into the t the end o La Ciném the finest documen and proje the studi and rare
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arts&attractions
Exhibitions
Musée d’Orsay : Édouard Manet, Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe, 1863 © Service de Presse/Musée d’Orsay, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais / Patrice Schmidt; The House of Deyrolle Photo © Aurélie Coudière
Into the Empire The fun, the fêtes and the fatuousness of France’s Second Empire are the focus of a lavish exhibition being held at the Musée d’Orsay, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year. Entitled the Spectacular Second Empire, 1852-1870, the show brings together paintings, sculptures, photographs, architectural drawings, objets d’art and jewellery in a thematic exhibition that focuses on this time of abundance, euphoria and numerous celebrations. This was the Empire of Napoleon III and the Empress Eugenie while the enriched wealthy middle class, seduced by its own image, reflected itself in painted, sculpted and photographed portraits. The exhibition offers the opportunity to see 19th century masterpieces like Edouard Manet’s Déjeuner sur l’Herbe, pioneering photographs by Nadar and beautiful objects produced by the Imperial Manufacture of Sèvres, cabinetmakers Fourdinois and Diehl, the goldsmiths Christofle and Froment-Meurice and the jeweller Mellerio dits Meller. Showing all month 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01 40 49 48 14
The Enchanted Forest A fabulous fairy tale of a show is taking place inside the Trianon Palace Hotel in Versailles befitting the holiday season. The house of Deyrolle, one of the bestknown companies of entomology and taxidermy in Paris has brought some of its most intriguing specimens to the lustrous setting of the hotel to put on a magical show for young and old. The two houses, both over 100 years old, have joined hands to create their Christmas Arch, a haven of calm and peace. Wise owls, a lion festooned in flowers and a winged horse are among the creatures on hand to magnify the joy of the festive season. From December 6 1 blvd de la Reine, 78000 Versailles 01 30 84 51 20 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 73
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arts&attractions Exhibitions
Focusing in on Hergé By Patricia Valicenti
Showing all month Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais Square Jean Perrin entrance Ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01 44 13 17 17
Reporter du Petit Vingtième au pays des Soviets 1930 Collection Studios Hergé © Hergé/Moulinsart 2016; Les Aventures de Tintin Le crabe aux pinces d’or 1942 Collection Studios Hergé © Hergé/Moulinsart 2016
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he Grand Palais is devoting an exhibition to Georges Remi, better known as Hergé, the Belgian author, artist and cartoonist who is best known as the creator of The Adventures of Tintin, the series of comic albums that would become among the most popular in 20th century Europe. It all began with the publication of the first Tintin in Le Petit Vingtième, a Belgian publication, in January of 1929. It would continue to develop over the years and encounters, notably with a young Chinese student, Chang in 1934, would be particularly decisive. When Hergé was working on a story on Tintin in the Far East, Chang helped him learn about his culture and worked closely with him on The Blue Lotus, a tale that unfolds in China, a place that is unknown to Tintin. The Blue Lotus is acknowledged as Hergé’s first masterpiece and with his own distinctive style he was on the road to a great writing career and throughout the 20th century he would become widely known in Belgium, Europe and the rest of the world. The show, organised by the Réunion des Musées Nationaux - Grand Palais and the Musée Hergé, brings together his original drawings, the paintings he surrounded himself with and photographs revealing the many facets of his work while evoking the encounters that guided his life and his artistic vision. Simply entitled Hergé, the exhibition offers an opportunity to decipher the art of Hergé, an illustrator who used every means at this disposal and drew great inspiration from other art forms and ways of life, for he was fascinated by ancient and primitive civilisations and always held the masters in high regard. He even branched out into painting himself and developed a passion for some of the most avant-garde artists of his era collecting works by Warhol, Lichtenstein, Fontana, Dubuffet and others. The exhibition takes a look at how, by using simple lines with impressive accuracy, he traced the contours of our existence and gave birth to emblematic characters that represent the values of society. The exhibition also reveals a less well-known side to Hergé, his brilliant career as a graphic designer seen in the show in highly creative posters. The show also goes back in time to Georges Remi’s early days in Brussels who, before he became Hergé, fed his imagination through the black and white cinema of the time on the big screen.
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Monuments
Sacré Coeur de Montmartre
ARC DE TRIOMPHE The triumphal arch commissioned by Napoleon and finished in 1836 stands in the centre of the Place Charles de Gaulle and boasts a fabulous view of the Champs-Elysées and includes the tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Visit the interactive exhibit on the history surrounding the Arch. Open daily 10am -10:30pm, times may vary, last admission 45 minutes before closing, Adults 12€, Children under 18 and EU citizens under 26: Free. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th), 01 55 37 73 77. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile Photo © Paris Tourist Office - Amélie Dupont
Reporter du Petit Vingtième au pays des Soviets 1930 Collection Studios Hergé © Hergé/Moulinsart 2016; Les Aventures de Tintin Le crabe aux pinces d’or 1942 Collection Studios Hergé © Hergé/Moulinsart 2016
arts&attractions
EIFFEL TOWER Built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World’s Fair, the iron structure now symbolises Paris the world over. The tower sparkles with twinkling lights every hour on the hour from twilight to 2am. From Jun 15 through Sept 1 9am-12:45am (stairs and lifts, last admission stairs, last lift midnight). From Sept 2 through Jun 14 lift open daily 9:30am-11:00pm, From Sept 2 through Jun 14 stairs open daily 9:30am-6:30pm. Last entries 45 minutes before
closing. Entry fee (7-17€ for adults) depends on how high you go. There is a glass floor on the first floor 57 metres above Paris and a champagne bar is on the top of the tower, open from noon to 10pm. www.tour-eiffel.fr. Ave Gustave Eiffel (7th), 01 44 11 23 23. M° Trocadéro
NOTRE-DAME CATHEDRAL Constructed between 1163 and 1345, it is a Gothic masterpiece. Free guided tours in English Wed and Thurs at 2pm & Sat at 2:30pm. Experience Quasimodo’s view of Paris from the towers Jul-Aug 10am-5:45pm weekdays, 10am-10:15pm Sat-Sun; Apr 1-Sep 30: 10am-5:45pm; Oct 1-Mar 31: 10am-4:45pm. 10€. 6 Parvis Notre- Dame (4th), 01 42 34 56 10. M° Cité
PALAIS GARNIER–OPERA DE PARIS Designed by architect Charles Garnier, and a brilliant example of Second Empire architecture. Daily visits on your own, 10am-4:30pm (adults 11€, students and under 25, 7€) information: 08 92 89 90 90. Guided tours in English daily at 11:30am and 2:30pm Jul-Aug
and school holidays; rest of year Wed, Sat and Sun, same times (15.50€). For additional information on guided tours call 08 25 05 44 05. Place de l’Opéra (9th). M° Opéra
SACRE COEUR DE MONTMARTRE Located on the highest peak of Paris, the view from the Sacré Coeur is breathtaking. There is a guesthouse for pilgrims providing accommodation and meals. Daily 6am-10:30pm; Dome 8:30am-8pm. www.sacrecoeur-montmartre.fr. 35 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre (18th), 01 53 41 89 09. M° Anvers
SAINTE CHAPELLE A jewel-like chapel on the Ile de la Cité in the courtyard of the Palais de Justice with High Gothic stained glass windows, at its finest on days when there isn’t a cloud in the sky. Daily 9am-5pm, MonFri closed between 1pm & 2:15pm, last tickets 30 minutes before closing time, times may vary. 10€. Free for children under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 2 blvd du Palais (1st), 01 53 40 60 97. M° Cité w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 75
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Address Book
arts&attractions
For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris
Galerie Bartoux Elysées
A contemporary art gallery on the ChampsElysées presenting paintings and sculptures by internationally renowned artists. Open seven days a week. 26 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.42.89.41.21. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Galerie Olwen Forest
Gallery exhibiting vintage costume, couture jewels and Art Deco crystal jewellery, as well as jewells created by designers such as Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Jewellery made for the cinema and a selection of vintage jewels telling the story of rock and roll. Permanent exhibition Erotica/ Exotica, featuring vintage pieces juxtaposing the two themes. From Sat-Mon. St-Ouen Flea Market, Marché Serpette, 110 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen. 01.40.11.96.38. M° Porte de Clignancourt
Galerie Tamenaga
Impressionist and modern paintings by masters including Cézanne, Renoir, Bonnard, Klee, Chagall and Picasso, as well as contemporary international art including a romantic ensemble by Jean Pierre Cassigneul. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 18 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.66.61.94. Mon-Sat. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Opera Gallery
Modern Masters: Botero, Chagall, Léger, Calder and Picasso, and a selection of contemporary artists: Brasilier, Corda, Mach, Kusama and Joe Black. Art pieces exhibited in a gallery space ideally situated in the Triangle d’Or. Open Mon to Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11:30am-7pm. 62 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (8th), 01.42.96.39.00. M° Concorde
attractions Aquarium de Paris (Cinéaqua)
Discover the world of the sea at this delightful aquarium. Daily 10am-7pm, first Sat of the month until 10pm, last tickets one hour before closing. 5 ave Albert de Mun (16th), 01.40.69.23.23. M° Iéna
Canal Saint-Martin
This trendy Parisian neighbourhood has a wide array of bars, restaurants and eclectic shops lining the sides of this functioning canal which links the Villette basin to the Arsenal port. Quai de Jemmapes/Quai de Valmy (10th). M° République
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie
Situated in the heart of La Villette Park, the science and industry museum houses a wide
Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie | Attractions
number of activities and exhibitions. La Géode-a giant hemispheric dome that shows films in 360°. La Cité des Enfants-interactive spaces (2-7 yrs & 5-12 yrs) are specifically designed to initiate children’s senses. 30 ave Corentin Cariou (19th), 01.40.05.80.00. M° Porte de la Villette
Disneyland Paris
With 2 Disney Parks, filled with more than 50 attractions, shows and parades, a day at Disneyland Paris will set pulses racing among even the most seasoned thrill-seeker. Around 35 min from Paris by train (Nation station), RER A to Marne-la-Vallée/Chessy
Pavillons de Bercy
Discover a decorative and diverse wonderland replete with a Theatre of Marvels, a fantastic garden and a museum devoted to rides and attractions found in amusement fairs from 1850 to 1950. 53 ave des Terroirs de France (12th), 01.43.40.16.15. M° Cour Saint-Emillion
boat cruises
Offering one-hour cruises departing from the Eiffel Tower. 10:30am-10pm, boats 30 min apart. Special theme cruises also available including a champagne tasting cruise. Port de Suffren (7th), 01.44.18.19.50. M° Bir Hakeim/RER C Champs de Mars
Yachts de Paris
The most luxurious of all the river boats. Private cruises, parties, receptions as well as nightly gourmet dinner cruises. Port Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. M° Pont de Sully
day trips Château de Fontainebleau
A residence of the French kings from the 12th to the 19th century, this royal château is famous for its superb Renaissance decor by Italian artists. WedMon 9:30am-5pm. 01.60.71.50.70. SNCF Grandes Lignes from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau-Avon (40 min), then a short bus or shuttle ride from the station.
Château de Versailles
Bateaux Parisiens
Giant glass-roofed tour boats departing every hour on the hour, 10am-10pm (except 1pm & 7:30pm). Lunch and dinner cruises also available. Port de la Bourdonnais (7th), 08.25.01.01.01. M° Trocadéro
Bateaux-Mouches
The legendary company has been offering cruises on the Seine river for decades. Doubledeck boats provide an unusual approach to Paris monuments. Departures every 45 min, 11am-9pm. For dinner cruises please see the Dining section. Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. M° Alma-Marceau
Batobus
A sleek “shuttle boat” making 8 stops including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, the Jardin des Plantes and the Town Hall. 10:30am-7pm. 08.25.05.01.01
Vedettes du Pont Neuf
These hour cruises on the Seine offer a discovery of the city’s leading monuments.10:30am-noon & 1:30pm-10:30pm, boats 30 min apart. Square du Vert Galant (1st), 01.46.33.98.38. M° Pont Neuf
River Limousine
Vedettes de Paris
Take in a private cruise on the Seine on board a custom-built luxurious boat replete with a salon and a bottle of champagne. Reservations required. 06.86.07.87.37
Louis XIV’s magnificent palace, with the Hall of Mirrors, Grands Appartements and Le Nôtre’s superb gardens. The Chateau is open TueSun 9am-6:00pm. Gardens open daily 8 am to sunset; free. Avenue Rockefeller. 01.30.83.78.00. RER C to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche
Château et Domaine de Chantilly
North of Paris, a 16th century royal château with a beautiful park and a fabulous art collection. Mon-Sun 10:30am-5pm. 03.44.57.40.40. SNCF at the Gare du Nord (25 min) or RER D to Chantilly– Gouvieux (45 min) then take the free bus no. 15 marked “Senlis” to the château.
Château de Vaux le Vicomte
This unique estate with its 17th century castle and formal French gardens is one of the most beautiful in France. The castle’s vast French gardens, punctuated by fountains and water basins, are regarded as royal gardener Andre Le Nôtre’s masterwork. By car 55 km from Paris. Maincy 77950, 01.64.14.41.90
Giverny
Enter into the world of the Impressionists in this dreamy village west of Paris where Claude Monet arrived in 1883. Monet’s home, gardens and the immortalized water lily ponds remain, all opened to the public at the Fondation Claude Monet. 84 rue Claude Monet, SNCF from the Gare St. Lazare
Bateaux-Mouches | Boat Cruises
Bateaux-Mouches ©iStock/LembiBuchanan
art galleries
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arts&attractions
Address Book
reporters all over the world to document the lifestyles of indigenous peoples that he believed would soon disappear. 14 rue du Port, BoulogneBillancourt, 01.55.19.28.00. M° Boulogne - Pont de Saint-Cloud
to Gare de Vernon, 45 minutes, then the No. 240 bus to Giverny. 02.32.51.28.21
guided tours 4 Roues Sous 1 Parapluie
These innovative concept tours are conducted on board the mythical 2CV car. Tours throughout Paris and the surroundings are available as well as thematic visits for children, or for romance for example. Customised visits and services may be organised as well. 06.67.32.26.68.
Centre Georges Pompidou
France’s top modern art museum, with some 56,000 works by more than 5000 artists. WedMon 11am-9pm (last tickets 8pm). Place Georges Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.12.33. M° Rambuteau
Espace Dali
Bustronome
In the heart of Montmartre, the only permanent exhibition, in France, entirely devoted to the master of Surrealism, and more particularly to his sculptures and engravings. Daily 10am-6pm. 11 rue Poulbot (18th), 01.42.64.40.10. M° Abbesses/Anvers
This original tour combines fine food with sightseeing. During the lunch or dinner tour you can see the city’s major sites and monuments from the double decker bus with a panoramic glass roof while enjoying a complete meal revolving around seasonal products. 2 ave Kléber (16th), 09.54.44.45.55. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain
L’Open Tour Paris
Open-topped buses and over 50 stops. Buy tickets on board, at hotels, or at their boutique office. 13 rue Auber (9th), 01.42.66.56.56. M° Opéra Luxury and custom-made excursions are the hallmarks of this company whose drivers are licensed guides. Tours are available in English with expert commentary on history, the arts and antiques and the guides can also take visitors into museums and monuments. 01.74.54.50.08. www.mysts.fr
Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais
National art galleries in the glass-roofed exhibit hall built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Thu-Mon 10am-8pm, Wed to 10pm. 3 ave Général Eisenhower (8th), 01.44.13.17.17. M° Champs-Elysées - Clemenceau
Paris City Vision
City tours, day and evening excursions, trips to the Loire and other regions. 214 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.55.60.00. M° Tuileries
Les Docks - Cité de la Mode et du Design
Retro Tour
Discover Paris on board a genuine sidecar and motorcycle with a private guided tour from Retro Tour, accompanied by your Gentleman Sider guide and driver dressed in Chevignon classic clothing. Several tours, which can carry one or two people, are available and you can also customize your tour. 01.85.39.07.07. www.retro-tour.com
museums & fondations The home and gardens of a 19th century philanthropist who hired pioneer photographers to document life around the world. The permanent collection includes 72,000 glass-plate autochromes. From 1909 to 1931, the philanthropist Kahn sent Château de Fontainebleau / Galerie François 1er ©FMR
Fondation Louis Vuitton
This cultural institution in the Bois de Boulogne is devoted to contemporary art and creation. Exhibition spaces display permanent collections and temporary exhibitions. 8 ave du Mahatma Gandhi (16th), 01.40.69.96.10. M° Sablons
My STS
Albert-Kahn Musée et Jardins
A contemporary art centre designed by Jean Nouvel with an excellent book shop and lovely garden. Tue 11am-10pm, Wed-Sun 11am-8pm. 261 blvd Raspail (14th), 01.42.18.56.50. M° Raspail
This cultural institution located on the banks of the Seine showcases creation, fashion and design. Housed in a spectacular contemporary building, the centre’s programme includes special exhibitions, art and trade shows and designers in residence. 34 Quai d’Austerlitz (13th), 01.76.77.25.30. M° Gare d’Austerlitz
Musée d’Orsay
A dramatically renovated former train station devoted to 19th and 20th century art, including the Impressionists, Manet, Van Gogh and Gauguin. Tue-Sun 9:30am-6pm, last tickets at 5pm. 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur (7th), 01.40.49.48.14. M° Solférino
Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace
Here you will find 350 authentic aeroplanes,
Bustronome | Guided Tours
1,000 scale models, thousands of works of art and one of the finest collections of aircraft in the world ranging from 17th century balloons to the Concorde. Tue-Sun 10am-5pm. Aéroport de ParisLe Bourget, 93352 Le Bourget, 01.49.92.70.00. Take the number 350 bus from the Gare du Nord directly to the museum.
Musée de l’Armée – Hôtel des Invalides
This historic monument houses a superb military museum while Napoleon’s impressive tomb lies under the golden cupola of the Eglise du Dome. The permanent exhibition draws on a collection of more than 500,000 works, objects and documents from the Bronze Age to the 21st century. The museum also hosts temporary exhibitions. Daily 10am-5pm. Hôtel des Invalides, 129 rue de Grenelle (7th), 01.44.42.38.77. M° Varenne
Musée de l’Homme
The national anthropological museum houses remarkable, internationally renowned prehistory and anthropological collections offering a glimpse into the human being, his complex nature and evolution from the inception of his appearance on the face of the planet to the present. Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, until 9pm on Wed. 17 Place du Trocadéro et du 11 Novembre (16th), 01.44.05.72.72. M° Trocadéro
Musée du Louvre
One of the world’s most important art collections, including the Mona Lisa, European painting and sculpture, large-format 19th century French paintings, Greek, Roman and Egyptian antiquities. Open Wed-Mon 9am-6pm (to 9:45 pm Wed & Fri, reduced price after 6pm). 99 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.40.20.53.17. M° Palais-Royal/Louvre-Rivoli
Musée du Parfum - Fragonard
Discover the world of perfume and perfume making in this delightful museum operated by Fragonard, the legendary Grasse-based perfume and essence maker ensconced in a superb Napoleon III town house. This year Fragonard is celebrating the lily of the valley. Free. Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. 9 rue Scribe (9th), 01.47.42.04.56. M° Opéra
Musée du Quai Branly - Jacques Chirac
An extensive and dramatically displayed collection of indigenous arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Tue, Wed & Sun 11am-7pm, Thur, Fri & Sat 1am-9pm. 37 Quai Branly (7th), 01.56.61.70.00. M° Alma Marceau
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The Guide
dining
Mediterranean Cuisine | Steak House | Breakfast All Day | Christmas Treats
Enjoy a steak for two (opposite page)
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Restaurants
Mediterranean Fare If you’re looking for a great lunch spot after a morning spent walking through the Louvre or a perfect restaurant for dinner after a day of shopping along the elegant Rue Saint-Honoré we would be remiss if we do not recommend Loulou. The recently opened restaurant of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs boasts an incomparable outdoor dining area, which overlooks the perfectly manicured gardens of the Louvre and offers a view of the city’s most iconic monuments, the Eiffel Tower, the glass pyramid and the Musée d’Orsay. Not only does the restaurant offer quite the view, it also offers an outstanding Mediterranean menu thanks to the talents of chefs Benoit Dargère and Diego Compagno. Dishes include an artichoke salad served with parmesan cheese shavings and drizzled with virgin olive oil, linguine generously tossed in a pesto sauce made from pistachios from Sicily, homemade tagliatelle with veal ragout and Osso Buco served with fresh tagliatelle. The best seat in the house is clearly outside, for dinner, so you can watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle like a gem in the sky every hour, on the hour, to be enjoyed with a glass of champagne. – S.I. Loulou 107 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01 42 60 41 96
Loulou © Adrien Dirand; Steak for Two images © David Grimbert
Steak for Two Sometimes all you really want is a good simple meal with friendly service in pleasant surroundings, and that’s exactly what Bien Elevé, a cheerful place with a teal blue façade, exposed stonewalls and wooden tables delivers. Charming newbie restaurateurs Arthur Lecomte and Dimitri Aboulker threw over their careers in the corporate world to open a restaurant, because they like good food so much. Wisely, they decided to keep things simple by concentrating on sourcing some really good meat. This is what the Bien Elevé (the Well Bred) specialises in, really good meat. The beef that is the star of the menu comes from a farm run by the Bouchez family in Châteauneuf in the Nord Pas de Calais, and it’s Black Angus. Otherwise, chef Thibaut Eurin’s menu also proposes succulent porc noir from the Bigorre and free-range Licques poultry, along with a regularly changing pasta or fish dish for those who aren’t carnivores. When I went for dinner with a meat-loving friend here the other night, Lecomte helpfully encouraged us to share a côte de boeuf, or a rib steak for two. Knowing we had a lot of beef coming our way, we shared some succulent Bigorre ham and a slice of excellent homemade terrine de campagne as starters, and then the steak was presented on a wooden cutting board before being sliced into thick slices and served with a trio of nicely made sauces, some frites and some pureed parsnips garnished with fresh white beans from Paimpol in Brittany. The beef had a superb depth of flavour and was perfectly cooked. Rather improbably after such a lavish feast, we shared the baba au Chartreuse, a sponge cake lashed with a potent green herbal elixir made by monks in eastern France. Garnished with whipped cream and chopped pear, but what we really appreciated was the potent liqueur for its irrefutable digestive properties. This charming restaurant is the kind of place where it’s very easy to become a regular, so reservations are recommended. – Alexander Lobrano Bien Elevé 47 rue Richer (9th), 01 45 81 44 35 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 79
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Restaurants
Breakfast All Day Benedict is where you need to start your day if you love eggs benedict, albeit starting your day here means starting it at midday as it opens only for lunch and dinner. The restaurant specialises in the egg dish with no less than 8 varieties on offer including the Reblochon, which comes topped with crispy potatoes, caramelised onions, turkey bacon, melted reblochon cheese and hollandaise sauce. For your side do not pass by the truffled fries seasoned with thyme, you will not regret it. Another plus to Benedict is that it is open daily but make sure you reserve as it gets busy quick. – S.I.. Benedict 19 rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie (4th), 01 42 76 91 37
Tourists to the French capital naturally want to see the Eiffel Tower from every angle possible and one of the best-said angles is while sitting on the terrace of Café de l’Homme. The modern brasserie offers contemporary French dishes for lunch and dinner and a brasseriestyle menu is offered at all other times. Traditional dishes served here include foie gras and French beef filet served with creamy mashed potatoes and your choice of pepper or béarnaise sauce. Meanwhile, vegetarians have only one main dish on offer, pasta, which unfortunately depending on the day can be good or not. The ideal time to come here though is between the lunch and dinner services for coffee and cake or a crisp white wine to be enjoyed with a side of the spectacular Tower. – S.I. Café de l’Homme 17 Place du Trocadéro (16th), 01 44 05 30 15
Café de l’Homme © Pierre Monetta
Wine with a View
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Café de l’Homme © Pierre Monetta
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Seafood, a Parisian culture.
L’Auberge Dab Tel. 01 45 00 32 22 161, avenue Malakoff - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from noon - 3pm and from 7pm to 2am - Valet parking available www.auberge-dab.com Congrès Maillot Tel. 01 45 74 17 24 80, avenue de la Grande Armée - Paris 17th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 2am Valet parking available www.congres-maillot.com
Les Grandes Marches Tel. 01 43 42 90 32 6, place de la Bastille - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.grandes-marches.com L’Européen Tel. 01 43 43 99 70 21 bis, boulevard Diderot - Paris 12th Open 7 days a week from 7.30am - 1am www.l-europeen.com
LUNCH & DINNER CRUISES
Agence-pashmina.com - Crédit photo : Francis Hammond
Congrès Auteuil Tel. 01 46 51 15 75 144, boulevard Exelmans - Paris 16th Open 7 days a week from 8am - 1am Valet parking available www.congres-auteuil.com
SIGHTSEEING CRUISES
Discover the spirit of Paris from the River Seine… Located at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, Bateaux Parisiens provides every day the more intense and tastiest journey of Paris. Embark aboard its entirely glassed-over boats for a unique cultural and gastronomic experience. www.bateauxparisiens.com • +33 (0)1 76 64 14 45 a
company
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Restaurants
American Barbecue Improbable though it may sound, Parisians are not only continuing their love affair with American food, but also find new typically stateside dishes to love, and the latest contender is good old American barbecue as it is served in such southern states as Texas, Tennessee and North Carolina at Paris Texas. As the name of this stylish new place from the team that began with Paris New York, a burger restaurant down the block that now has branches in the Oberkampf neighbourhood and also the Marais, the barbecue style here is Texan, which means no sauce or marinade, just salt and pepper and an optimum time in the Texas-made smoker that owner David Akpamagbo imported from the United States. Akpamagbo, who’s half Breton, half Ivorian, recently took over the farm of his grandparents in Brittany, and all of the meat comes directly from his own production. If the beef ribs, pork ribs, brisket and pulled pork get an authentically Texan treatment here, the side dishes take their inspiration from various countries around the Mediterranean. Try the roasted aubergines, chickpeas roasted with tomatoes, and raw cabbage salad, and whatever you do, don’t miss the signature cocktail here, which is the Redneck Mary made with smoked tomatoes, it’s easily one of the best cocktails in town. No reservations, so come early. – A.L. Paris Texas Open daily from noon to 2am 74 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis (10th), 09 81 86 68 08
New Chef on the Block The rue Surcouf in the 7th arrondissement continues its emergence as the single best street for discovering talented young chefs on the Left Bank. First there was David Toutain at his eponymous restaurant at No. 29, and most recently, chef Tomy Gouset opened Tomy & Co. at No. 22. The dark horse here, however, is Jaïs, which was opened by the two Mimoun brothers at No. 3 during the summer. Jaïs is the chef, while his brother Yanice runs the dining room. While offering impeccable versions of such much loved French classics as pâté en croûte with foie gras and lièvre à la royale, wild hare in velvety sauce made from its own gizzards, the menu, which changes often, also offers intriguing examples of a young chef’s growing talent and confidence. Crispy octopus comes to the table with a sauce vierge (chopped tomato in olive oil) spiked with horseradish, a simple but shrewd idea, and lamb sweetbreads are roasted with powdered fennel, a flavour that flatters their earthy sweetness. Desserts come from Jacques Genin, one of the top five pastry chefs in Paris, and the wine list features a great offer of organic and natural (unsulfured) wines. – A.L. Jaïs 3 rue Surcouf (7th), 01 45 51 98 16 82 WHERE Paris I D E C ember 2016
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Restaurants
Dinner at Chantilly A trip to Chantilly is one of the great and easiest day trips to be made from Paris, since this enchanting chateau with one of the best small museums in France is an easy forty-five minute drive north. Chantilly is also where Clément Leroy arrived to take over the kitchens of La Table du Connétable at the charming Auberge du Jeu de Paume hotel. Coming tableside to explain his menu, the chef explained that his father was a butcher in the Drôme region of France, which was the inspiration for his starter of boeuf à la ficelle, or thin slices of beef poached in rich bouillon. It was a perfect dish, richly flavoured and solacing on a wintery day, as was a starter of a huge oyster by producer Florent Tarbouriech poached in boullion with root vegetables. Both dishes were light, intelligently creative, and deeply satisfying. Curious about its preparation, we shared a grilled red mullet, which came to the table with a garnish of its own crisply deep-fried scales and wild mushrooms. The originality here, however, was the pleasantly potent and slightly mentholated taste of the Sarawak pepper with which the fish had been seasoned. Next, roasted whiskey-marinated roebuck filet with a Béarnaise sauce made with seaweed instead of the usual tarragon, a very inspired idea, and free-range chicken roasted with escargot butter under its skin and a jus à l’hysope (hyssop, in English). Desserts were superb as well, including a chestnut and Granny Smith apple tart and an intriguing composition of plums cooked with beer and malt. Service is outstanding in this dining room, and the sommelier pours an excellent selection of wines by the glass. – A.L. La Table du Connétable Auberge du Jeu de Paume 4 rue du Connétable, Chantilly, 03 44 65 50 05
While visiting France, indulging in fine French chocolate is a prerequisite to making your trip to the French capital a sweet souvenir, and one of the finest chocolatiers to discover is Debauve & Gallais. The French chocolate manufacturer once supplied fine chocolate to Emperor Napoléon and kings Louis XVII, Charles X and Louis Philippe after receiving the royal warrant and becoming the official chocolate supplier to the French court. In the chocolatier’s Left Bank boutique you can get a taste of the same chocolate that was once served to royalty, making your stop very regal. Try the chocolate truffles or the Marie-Antoinette’s Pistoles, the dark chocolate disks that are delicately flavoured with coffee or vanilla, or why not opt for a chocolate box with different chocolates to devour on your flight back home. And for the Christmas holidays Debauve & Gallais have created the best Christmas tree ornaments, chocolate ones, and a percentage of the profits from every chocolate ornament sold this month will go towards Agir et Vivre l’Autisme, an association helping children with autism. - S.I. Debauve & Gallais Boutique 30 rue des Saints-Pères (7th), 01 45 48 54 67
Debauve & Gallais Photo © Eric Lamy
Chocolate with a Cause
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Where Paris Promotion
BoUiLLoN Des CoLoNies
BoUiLLoN raCiNe
A Restaurant of the World / Paris 6th
A Parisian restaurant since 1906 / Paris 6th
T
his restaurant offers a change of pace with its subdued lighting, an atmosphere somewhere between Africa and Asia, propitious for a meal in tête à tête but also among friends. While the setting carries one away what invites the patron in is truly the innovative cuisine, which proposes the best of Middle Eastern, African or Caribbean cooking to the classics of French cuisine.
O
Lunch menu priced at 15.95€ and à la carte menu at 25.90€ at lunch and dinner. Sunday brunch.
pened in 1906, the Bouillon Racine is one of the rare bouillons or precursor of the brasserie still present in Paris today and going strong. Its interior decor is listed as a historic monument and is a two-floor delight that takes you back a century in time. Alexandre Belthoise invites you to savour his traditional bouillon with chicken and vegetables, French onion soup, beef stew, stuffed and spit roasted suckling pig and risotto with Saint Jacques and prawns. For dessert try the waffle with crème brûlée. Reasonably priced lunch menu at 16.95€, set menus at 33€ and 43€.
3 rue Racine, Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 44 32 15 64
3 rue Racine, Paris 6th Tel: +33 (0)1 44 32 15 60
Fine dishes found on the menu include shrimp risotto, Tahitian-style tuna tartar, beef satay or the African-Middle Eastern platter.
PHaraMoND
La ViLLa Corse
Cuisine of Normandy since 1832 / Paris 1
st
T
his institution in the first arrondissement is breath taking. The decor, listed as a historic monument, is an astonishing blend of woodwork, mirrors and painted mirrors. Don’t miss the private dining rooms nestled on the second floor where Clemenceau and Hemingway once dined. But the Pharamond is also and above all cuisine revolving around the products and specialties of Normandy. Sébastien Richard is delighted to share his cuisine with you from the nostalgic dishes like tripe à la mode de Caen or homemade andouillette along with savoury new dishes like sea bass carpaccio, rack of lamb in a crust of herbs, roasted and potted Norman pig without forgetting the teurgoule, traditional rice pudding from Normandy. A generous and savoury cuisine to be discovered through two menus, a lunch menu priced at 16.90€ (appetiser and main course or main course and dessert) or the à la carte menu starting at 35€.
24 rue de la Grande Truanderie, Paris 1st - Valet parking in the evening Metro Etienne Marcel – Tel: +33 (0)1 40 28 45 18
Corsican Restaurant / Paris 15th
E
nter into the Villa Corse for a gourmet journey between the sea and the mountains for enchanting gastronomy and an oenological discovery. The open kitchen raises the curtain on the on going culinary operations and it is in full view of the guests that chef Cyril Gauzit and his team prepare the savours of the Ile of Beauty from broccoli cannelloni to a suckling pig, cromesquis of figatellu (fried fresh sausage), mashed potatoes with truffles and blood sausage to wind it all up with a brocciu en fiadone païsanu (flan). In the dining room the team will explain the various Corsican wines on the menu to accompany your meal. Lunch menu: 25€. A la carte menu 45€. For seating, you can choose between leather club chairs in the library and bar or traditional tables in the vinothèque.
164 boulevard de Grenelle, Paris 15th – Valet parking Tel: +33 (0)1 53 86 70 81 w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 85
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Restaurant Advertorial
rAtn Indian-Moghol gastronomy / Paris 8th Since 1976, the Bhalla family, originally from New Delhi, excels in Indian Moghol Gastronomy of the 17th century and immortalises the beautiful north Indian culinary traditions. RATN invites you to discover the finest specialties in tandoori and curries. Recommended by Michelin, Gault Millau, Pudlo, Bottin. 9 rue de la Tremoille, Paris 8th Metro: George V Tel: +33 (0)1 40 70 01 09 www.restaurantratn.com
DAns Le noIr ? tHe sensorIAL sHoP A world Unique Delicatessen Concept Store, 4th In the heart of the historical Paris, near Notre Dame and Pompidou Center, you can live a unique human and sensory shopping experience: the Dans le Noir ? Sensorial shop. A few steps from the world famous Dans le Noir ? Restaurant, this unique concept store is selling only awarded delicatessen products and offer visitors to blind taste products in the pitch dark guided by an unexpected guide. A unique idea to prepare your Christmas presents and to live a one life time experience yourself. Group up to 60 people welcome. 51 & 40 rue Quincampoix, Paris 4th (M° Hôtel de ville or Chatelet or Rambuteau) Tel. Restaurant: +33 (0)1 42 77 98 04 / Tel. Shop : +33 (0)9 83 49 87 97 www.paris.danslenoir.com
Au CoIn Des Gourmets Indochine Cuisine / Paris 1st & 5th This restaurant is the ideal place for a quick lunch or a romantic dinner. For the past 20 years, the Ta family has been offering authentic Vietnamese cuisine. You will be seduced by the freshness and the refined savours of their dishes. Recommended by Zagat. Near Place Vendôme, near Notre-Dame. Advisable to reserve. 38 rue du Mont-Thabor, Paris 1st Tel: +33 (0)1 42 60 79 79 www.coindesgourmetsrivedroite.fr
Paris 1st
5 rue Dante, Paris 5th Tel: +33 (0)1 43 26 12 92
bustronome French cuisine / Place Charles de Gaulle Étoile, on the corner with Avenue Kleber (16th) Combine sightseeing and bistro dining aboard Bustronome, the city’s restaurant on wheels. With a glass roof, the bus-cum-restaurant allows diners to take in every inch of the splendour the city has to offer. Enjoy an entrée of seasonal vegetables flavoured with olive oil, lime and honey as you ride along the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, sample a filet of guinea fowl served with puréed corn, romanesco cabbage and roasted pear and take in the Musée d’Orsay before savouring vanilla panna cotta, sorbet and blackcurrant meringue, Genoa cake and sweet crystallized violet as you pass by the Eiffel Tower. Bustronome operates for lunch and dinner and can also be privatised. Tel: +33 (0)9 54 44 45 55 / www.bustronome.com 86 WHERE Pa r i s I D E C e m b e r 2016
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Christmas Treats
Christmas Treats La Bûche, the traditional Christmas cake in France gets a makeover every year by some of the greatest pastry chefs in the world, and this year is no exception with some so intricately designed they look too good to eat. Here are our two favourite edible works of art we could not resist biting into. This year Lenôtre, the name famous for its delicious pastries, has collaborated with the Lido, the world-famous cabaret. The impressive result is an edible tableau from the cabaret complete with a Bluebell dancer. White chocolate feathers, swans made from sugar and a dark chocolate moon add the details to the “stage” made from an almond biscuit base layered with a creamy ganache and a light mousse with notes of orange. The bûche serves 10 and is available between the 10th and the 24th of December and can be ordered from the 3rd at Lenôtre stores. And over at Dalloyau Léo Pôle awaits. The festive polar bear is a delicious chocolate mousse delight on a soft biscuit base with crunchy hazelnuts and a creamy milk chocolate heart. The playful bûche is surrounded with 6 praline biscuit “lollipops”, which can also be sold separately. Dalloyau 101 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th) 01 42 99 90 00
Buche creation Leo Pole © P.V; Buche Merveilles Lenotre © T.Dhellemmes
Lenôtre 48 ave Victor Hugo (16th) 01 45 02 21 21
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DINING DINING
Restaurant Restaurant Advertorial Advertorial
WEPLER WEPLER
DJAKARTA BALI DJAKARTA BALI
Traditional French cuisine Traditional French cuisine th
Indonesian cuisine Indonesian cuisine st
414 Place de Clichy, Paris 18 / Metro: Place de Clichy th 414 de Clichy, Paris 4Tel:Place +33 (0)1 45 22 53 2418 / Metro: Place de Clichy 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 22 53 24 4Daily until 12:30 am 4Daily 12:30menu am 30€ 4Lunchuntil & Dinner 4Lunch & Dinner menu 30€ 4Set-menu 24.50€ 4Set-menu 24.50€ 4English spoken 4English spoken 4www.wepler.com 4www.wepler.com
49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1 49 rue Vauvilliers, Paris 1st 4Metro: Louvre / Les Halles 4Metro: Louvre Les Halles 4Tel: 01 45 08 83/ 11 4Tel: 01every 45 08day 83 11 4Open until 1am except Mondays 4Open every day until 1am except 4Balinese dancing on Friday nightsMondays 4Balinese dancing on Friday 4Special discovery menu, thenights Rijsttafel: 25-55€ 4Special discovery menu, the Rijsttafel: 25-55€ 4www.djakarta-bali.com 4www.djakarta-bali.com
A full menu for all your lunches and dinners: A fullofmenu for allFrench your lunches and dinners: one the finest Onion soups in the one of the finestplates FrenchorOnion soups in the capital, seafood traditional house capital, seafood plates or traditional house dishes as Fish from the market or Andouillette dishes Fishrestaurant from the market or Andouillette AAAAAas, our has something for AAAAA , our restaurant has something for everyone . everyone .
Imagine a little gem of a place, serene and Imagine a little gemwith of abatiks place,and serene and refined, decorated Javanese refi ned, decorated with batiks and Javanese puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre. puppets, just around the corner from the Louvre. Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali. Enjoy delicate foods from Java, Sumatra and Bali.
LE BISTROT DU LOUCHÉBEM LE BISTROT DU LOUCHÉBEM
LE LOUCHÉBEM LE LOUCHÉBEM
Traditional French cuisine Traditional French cuisine st
Traditional French cuisine Traditional French cuisine st
47 rue des Prouvaires, Paris 1 st 47 rue des Prouvaires, 4Metro: Châtelet / Les Paris Halles1 4Metro: / Les 4Tel: +33Châtelet (0)1 45 08 04 Halles 10 4Tel: +33 (0)1 45 08 0425.90 10 € 4Unlimited carpaccio: 4Unlimited carpaccio: 25.90€ 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4Closed Sundays and Mondays 4www.lebistrotdulouchebem.fr 4www.lebistrotdulouchebem.fr
Succulent meats from the butcher are Succulent meatshere. fromInventive, the butcher are to be savoured refined to be savoured here. crispy Inventive, refined appetizers including thyme-fl avoured appetizers including crispy thyme-flavoured Camembert are worth the detour. Camembert detour. The calf’s liverare is aworth sheerthe delight and the The calf’s liver is a sheer delight and the ambiance warm and full of charm. ambiance warm and full of charm.
431 rue Berger, Paris 1 st 431 rue Berger, 4Metro: ChâteletParis / Les1 Halles 4Metro: / Les 4Tel: +33Châtelet (0)1 42 33 12 Halles 99 4Tel: +33 (0)1 means 42 33 12 99 4Louchébem butcher 4Louchébem means butcher 4A meat eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4A meat Sundays eater’s paradise, a historic grill room 4Closed 4Closed Sundays 4www.le-louchebem.fr 4www.le-louchebem.fr
This quintessential les Halles butcher’s This quintessential Halles butcher’s restaurant proffers les a full gamut of meat dishes. restaurant proffers a full gamut of meat dishes. The pot roast salad is superb and the unique The potcan roast is superb the unique all you eatsalad platter of beef,and roast ham and all can eat platterisofnot beef, ham and legyou of lamb at 26,90€ to roast be missed. leg of lamb at 26,90€ is not to be missed.
INDIAN INDIAN GASTRONOMY GASTRONOMY
33 MINUTES PRODUCTS. SPECIALISING IN MINUTES FROM FROM PARIS. PARIS. THE THE ONLY ONLY INDIAN INDIAN RESTAURANT RESTAURANT WITH WITH 22 GAULT GAULT && MILLAU MILLAU TOQUES. TOQUES. FINE FINE QUALITY QUALITY && FRESH FRESH PRODUCTS. SPECIALISING IN TANDOORI TANDOORI PM PM PM PM 2.30 / 7 11.30 DISHES, CURRIES AND BIRYANIS. PRIVATE & COMPLIMENTARY VALET PARKING. OPEN DAILY 12 PM PM PM PM DISHES, CURRIES AND BIRYANIS. PRIVATE & COMPLIMENTARY VALET PARKING. OPEN DAILY 12 - 2.30 / 7 - 11.30 3-5 3-5 quai quai Aulagnier, Aulagnier, 92600 92600 Asnières-sur-Seine Asnières-sur-Seine // M° M° Gabriel Gabriel Péri Péri (line (line 13) 13) Tel: Tel: +33 +33 (0)1.40.86.10.11 (0)1.40.86.10.11 // +33 +33 (0)6.99.05.40.40 (0)6.99.05.40.40 www.kaveri.fr www.kaveri.fr // restaurant@kaveri.fr restaurant@kaveri.fr 88 WHERE Pa r i s I D E C E M B E R 2016
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For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris Around Louvre & PALAis royAL (1st, 2nd)
signature dish. Daily L & D. Forum des Halles, Porte Rambuteau (1st), 01.53.45.84.50 . M° Les Halles
Au Coin Des Gourmets - CambodianVietnamese-Laotian (€€)
Djakarta Bali - Indonesian (€)
A very popular restaurant run by the charming Ta family, serving excellent Asian food. The Vietnamese ravioli may be the best in town. Reasonable prices, good wines. Mon-Sat L&D. 38 rue du Mont-Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.79.79. Mº Concorde
Aux Lyonnais - Bistro
(€€)
A beautiful 1890 bistro now co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spiffed-up and modernized Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D. 32 rue Saint-Marc (2nd),01.42.96.65.04. M° Richelieu-Drouot
Bistro Volnay - Bistro (€€€)
Good, authentic French food in a relaxed, friendly setting with a first-rate wine list including an excellent value Volnay. The cheese tray is superb and generously served. Mon-Fri L&D. 8 rue Volney (2nd), 01.42.61.06.65. Mº Opéra
Brasserie Réjane - Brasserie (€€)
This casual restaurant offers up traditional French fare at the Nolinski hotel. Classic starters include mackerel in white wine with grain mustard dressing while a nice main is the roasted freerange chicken in a thyme-flavoured gravy. The desserts were created by pastry chef Yann Brys who has the M.O.F., the finest craftsman of France, title. Daily B, L & D, 7am-11pm. 16 ave de l’Opéra (1st), 01 42 86 10 10. M° Pyramides
Canard & Champagne - Classic French (€€)
This charming restaurant serves two of France’s most emblematic foodstuffs, duck and champagne. French-raised duck is served deliciously as foie gras, confit (preserved in its own fat and grilled) and magret (duck breast). There is a superb selection of champagnes as well. Tues-Sat L&D. 57 Passage des Panoramas (2nd), 09.81.83.95.69. M° Grands Boulevards
Champeaux - Brasserie (€€)
This Alain Ducasse brasserie, located beneath the canopy of the Forum des Halles centre, is a fine spot for a nice lunch, inventive cocktails with tapas or dinner. Traditional brasserie fare is on the agenda like cold cut platters and onion soup as well as a selection of marinated raw fish dishes and an array of soufflés, the house’s
An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English-speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep-fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun L&D. 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Mº Louvre-Rivoli
Goust - Gourmet (€€€)
Located on the 1 floor of a Napoleon III mansion, this one-star restaurant near the Place Vendôme offers gastronomic Mediterranean-style cuisine accompanied by first-rate service. Tues-Sun. L&D. 10 rue Volney (2nd), 01.40.15.20.30. M° Opéra st
Kinugawa - Japanese (€€€)
Footsteps from the Place Vendôme, this mythical Japanese restaurant has been re-designed by the architects Gilles & Boissier. Chef Ozuru, formerly of Nobu Paris, prepares Japanese gastronomy that brings together the traditional and the modern. Mon-Sun L&D. 9 rue Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.65.07. M° Tuileries
La Cuisine de l’E7 - Contemporary
(€€€)
Two minutes away from the magnificent opera house is where you can enjoy seasonal contemporary cuisine at Hotel Edouard 7’s restaurant. Dishes include a roasted goats cheese salad seasoned with caramelised fig and honey and salmon tartar served with buckwheat crepes. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave de l’Opéra (2nd), 01.42.61.56.90. M˚ Opéra
Le Grand Vefour - Modern Classic (€€€€)
The opulent two-star restaurant in the Palais Royal arcades that has been serving the Parisian beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin’s superb dishes are the foie gras ravioli with truffle jus. Mon-Fri L&D, Fri. L only. 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Mº Palais Royal
Le Bistrot de Louchébem - Classic French (€)
Serving traditional cuisine in a cosy ambiance with plenty of charm. Once you’ve settled in, the staff will suggest a list of starters like the housemade foie gras or the warm goat cheese salad. Tues-Sat L&D until 11pm. 7 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.45.08.04.10. Mº Châtelet
Le Meurice-Alain Ducasse - Modern Classic (€€€€€)
A stunning 18th-century room offers a gastronomic menu featuring sumptuous 2-star cuisine that changes with the seasons. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Mº Tuileries
Le Louchébem - Bistro (€)
Located in the heart of the historic Les Halles district, this establishment is currently in the hands of the fourth generation of the same family. From the cooked ham on the bone to an authentic salad of pot au feu, everything here is homemade. Mon-Sat L&D. 31 rue Berger (1st), 01.42.33.12.99. Mº Châtelet/Les Halles
Le Lulli - Classic French (€€)
This delightful restaurant located in the Grand Hôtel du Palais Royal offers fine cuisine in a winter garden setting. Recent offerings included a pea soup flavoured with mint and served with peppered ricotta, and the Lulli cheeseburger served with French fries. B daily, Mon-Fri L. 4 rue de Valois (1st), 01.42.96.72.20. M° Palais Royal-Musée du Louvre
Le Restaurant du Palais Royal - Contemporary (€€)
Fine contemporary French cuisine can be savoured in an elegant and cosy atmosphere overlooking the beautiful gardens of the Palais Royal. Chef Philip Chronopoulos prepares traditional dishes like lamb T-bone served with sweet peas and seaweed, and caramelised duck served with a sweet apricot jus and carrot puree. Tues-Sat L&D. 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. M° Palais Royal
Le Soufflé - Classic French (€€)
This is the place to taste one of France’s finest specialties, the souffle. Attentive service and superb quality await in this restaurant established in 1961. Faithful to traditional cuisine, in addition to over 20 different kinds of souffles, a classic French menu is proposed. Mon-Sat L&D. 36 rue du Mont Thabor (1st), 01.42.60.27.19. Mº Concorde
La Tour de Montlhéry -Chez Denise - Bistro (€€)
This traditional bistro serves up excellent, copious fare in the Les Halles neighbourhood where the city’s great food market once was. The chips and terrines are house-made, calf’s liver is done up English style and the beef is from the Limousin region of France. Mon-Fri L&D, open until 5am. 5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. M° Les Halles
Lavinia - Classic French (€€)
Nicely prepared traditional French food is on the agenda in this casually elegant eatery. Homemade foie gras with lemon chutney is a nice starter and the main courses include a fish and a dish of the day. The restaurant is attached to the Lavinia wine cellar and you can choose from 100 prestigious wines by the glass and from all of the wines carried by the house, some 6,000, by the bottle to
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Arpège | Contemporary (7th)
L’Ambroisie | Haute Cuisine (4th)
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Address Book
accompany your meal. Mon-Sat noon-10pm. 3 blvd de la Madeleine (1st), 01.42.97.20.27. M° Madeleine
Le MArAis (3rd, 4th) Bofinger - Brasserie (€€)
A landmark brasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. M° Bastille
Georges - World Cuisine (€€€)
Trendy restaurant on the roof of the Pompidou Center, with surprisingly good world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a spaceage decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2 am. Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. Mº Rambuteau
L’Ambroisie - Haute Cuisine (€€€€€)
In a beautiful 17th century mansion in the Place des Vosges, media-shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lobster ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuillantine with sesame and curry. Tue-Sat L&D. 9 Place des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Mº Saint-Paul
L’Ami Louis - Bistro (€€€€€)
A classic bistro known for huge portions of foie gras and exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists reserve weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. M° Arts et Métiers
QuArtier LAtin & sAint-GerMAin (5th, 6th) Alcazar - Brasserie (€€€)
This family-owned Parisian restaurant offers a harmonious atmosphere highlighted by luxuriant vegetation. Savour a beet, goat cheese and hazelnut salad for starters then try a nicely spiced shoulder of lamb with apricots for a main. Meanwhile cocktails can be enjoyed up on the balcony. Daily L&D, closed Sun & Mon in the summer. 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Mº Odéon
Au Moulin à Vent - Bistro (€€)
This charming bistro located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods in Paris is known for the quality of its Salers beef and its specialties of the Beaujolais region. Tues–Fri L&D/Sat D only. 20 rue des FossésSaint-Bernard (5th), 01.43.54.99.37. M° Jussieu
Café de Flore - Bistro (€€)
The legendary café made famous in the 1950s by Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and
other Left Bank intellectuals. The atmosphere is still Parisian, the fare limited to (expensive) drinks and light snacks and traditional desserts. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 172 blvd Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.26. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Café des Deux Magots - Café (€€)
The other legendary Left Bank café, still going strong long after its 1950s heyday. The prices are equally high, but it remains an authentic Parisian favourite. Daily 7:30 am-1:30 am. 6 Place Saint-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.55.25. Mº Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Hélène Darroze - Southwestern French (€€)
Young chef Hélène Darroze serves up southwestern French specialties in this contemporary one-star restaurant. The casual ground floor Salon d’Hélène serves upscale tapas. Tue-Sat L&D. 4 rue d’Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Mº Sèvres Babylone
La Méditerranée - Seafood (€€)
A bright and beautiful, mostly seafood restaurant with marvelous wall paintings and a glasswalled terrace facing the Odéon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 2 Place de l’Odéon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. M° Odéon
Lapérouse - Gourmet (€€€)
This elegant restaurant on the Seine serves finely prepared gastronomic French cuisine. Starters include crayfish ravioli or foie gras with 12 spices. A nice main course is the aged house steak. Private dining rooms may be reserved as well. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 51 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.68.04. Mº Saint-Michel
La Tour d’Argent - Classic French (€€€€€)
A Paris institution from another era, now with only one star, but still offering its famous numbered pressed duck and an absolutely magical view of Notre-Dame. Tues-Sat L&D. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle (5th), 01.43.54.23.31. Mº Maubert-Mutualité
La Truffière - Southwestern French (€€€)
Cozy one-star restaurant in a 17th century vaulted cellar serving southwestern French cuisine, including foie gras and black and white truffle dishes, and menus that change with the seasons. 2,400 bottle wine list. Tue-Sun L&D. 4 rue de Blainville (5th), 01.46.33.29.82. Mº Place Monge
Le Montparnasse 1900 - Classic French (€€) Sumptuous food in a sumptuous decor. A
stunning Art Nouveau setting in this registered historical monument surrounds you as you delight in a fine selection of grilled meats and finely prepared dishes. Daily L&D. 59 blvd Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Mº Montparnasse-Bienvenue
Relais Louis XIII - Classic French (€€€€)
In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, twostar chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes revolving around seasonal products. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat, L&D. 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. Mº Saint-Michel
Taokan - Chinese (€€€)
Contemporary Chinese gastronomy is served in this elegantly decorated restaurant. An excellent dim sum is among the offerings while starters include crispy shrimp rolls or peppery beef with a tasty herb salad. Mon-Sat L&D. 8 rue du Sabot (6th), 01.42.84.18.36. M° Saint-Sulpice
Ze Kitchen Galerie - Fusion (€€)
Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil’s chic restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish, pasta starters and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. Mº Saint-Michel
Around the eiffeL tower & Les invALides (7th) 58 Tour Eiffel - Classic French (€€)
Located on the 1st floor of the Eiffel Tower this is a great place for a lunch or dinner while enjoying a breathtaking view. This restaurant proffers a chic picnic for lunch, among the offerings: seared salmon, Caesar salad and gourmet hamburgers (served until 5:30). Daily L&D. Champ de Mars (7th), 08.25.56.66.62. Mº Ecole Militaire
Arpège - Contemporary (€€€€€)
Three-star chef Alain Passard’s menu is now half vegetarian serving ravioli with vegetables, Cévennes onions with Parmesan, and his famous tomato dessert - though carnivores can find dishes like squab with sugared almonds. Mon-Fri L&D. 84 rue de Varenne (7th), 01.47.05.09.06. M° Varenne
Jules Verne - Haute Cuisine (€€€€)
This gastronomic gem is a very expensive restaurant in the Eiffel Tower taken over by multiple-star chef Alain Ducasse. The Jules Verne has been awarded one Michelin star. Treat yourself to “haute-cuisine” with the most spectacular view of Paris. Daily L&D. Eiffel Tower, 2nd floor (7th), 01.45.55.61.44. Mº Bir-Hakeim
Septime ©Ph. Baumann
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.
Hélène Darroze | Southwestern French (6th)
La Méditerranée | Seafood (6th) w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 91
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Address Book L’Ami Jean - Classic French (€€€)
Don’t let the banal facade confuse you, this is a great choice for authentic French cooking. Chef Stéphane Jégo serves up generous portions of regional delicacies, with an accent on wild game, as well as delicious seafood platters. Tues-Sat L&D. 27 rue Malar (7th), 01.47.05.86.89. Mº La Tour-Maubourg
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon - Bistronomy (€€€)
The 1-star lunch-counter restaurant of chef Joel Robuchon serves contemporary French dishes such as a foie gras burger. Daily L&D until 11 pm. 5 rue Montalembert (7th), 01.42.22.56.56. M° Rue du Bac
Les Ombres - Contemporary (€€€€)
The spectacular glass-domed rooftop restaurant of Musée du Quai Branly, directly beneath the Eiffel Tower. Contemporary French with an exotic touch: foie gras terrine with mango chutney, roast lamb with gingerbread and zucchini ravioli. Daily L&D. 27 Quai Branly (7th), 01.47.53.68.00. Mº Alma-Marceau
Around the ChAMPs-eLysées (8th) 114 Faubourg - Brasserie
(€€€)
An elegant one-star establishment in the Bristol Hotel proffers superb cooking from three-star chef Eric Frechon in a delightful duplex space. 7/7, L&D. 114 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th) , 01.53.43.44.44. Mº Miromesnil
39V - Contemporary (€€€)
This glamorous one-star restaurant, in the heart of the Golden Triangle, sports a modern, streamlined décor. The grilled langoustines in a light citrus sauce are excellent as is the cheesecake. Mon-Fri L&D. 39 ave George V (8th), 01.56.62.30.05. Mº George V
Apicius - Contemporary (€€€€)
Jeannin. Daily L&D. Hôtel Le Bristol, 112 rue du Fbg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. Mº Miromesnil
La Scène - Gourmet (€€€€)
This gastronomic restaurant in the Prince de Galles hotel offers an authentic and generous cuisine using remarkable products. For a fish course, succulent French lobster is a fine choice while meat dishes include fine milk-fed veal and wild hare from the Beauce region. Mon-Sat B, L&D, Sun Brunch. 33 ave George V (8th), 01.53.23.78.52. Mº George V
Ladurée Champs-Elysées - French Pastries (€€)
Every day from 7.30 am to midnight, Ladurée serves breakfast, lunch, tea time and dinner. On the ground floor the “Eiffel Veranda” as well as the outdoor terrace overlook the glamorous Avenue des Champs-Elysées. On the first floor, the five cosy dining rooms is decorated in the “Second Empire” refined style. 75 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th)
Laurent - Gourmet (€€€€)
This gourmet 1-star Michelin restaurant serving sophisticated cuisine in a beautiful setting with a garden is a Parisian institution. The finest produce and products are used to prepare seasonal French cuisine with a contemporary touch. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 41 ave Gabriel (8th), 01.42.25.00.39. M° Champs-Elysées Clemenceau
Lasserre - Classic French (€€€€)
Chef Adrien Trouilloud serves an authentic and refined cuisine revolving around fresh produce in this historic one-star restaurant with its gliding sunroof ceiling. Mon-Sat D only, Thu-Fri L only. 17 ave Franklin Delano Roosevelt (8th), 01.43.59.02.13. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
La Table du Lancaster - Gourmet (€€€€)
The one-star restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Vigato, offering a mix of modern and country cooking: lobster ravioli, potato charlotte with caviar. Mon-Fri L&D. 20 rue d’Artois (8th), 01.43.80.19.66. Mº Saint-Philippe-du-Roule
This delightful two-star establishment serves creative, light and elegant meals crafted by chef Julien Roucheteau whose seasonal menus revolve around a specific product. Mon-Fri L&D. Hôtel Lancaster, 7 rue de Berri (8th), 01.40.76.40.18. Mº George V
Bateaux-Mouches - Classic French
Le 68 par Guy Martin - Contemporary (€€)
(€€€)
Enjoy a romantic dinner cruise on the Seine river enchanted by violin and piano music. Daily departures for dinner at 8:30pm. On Sat, Sun and public holidays lunches at 1pm (with country music). Port de la Conférence, Pont de l’Alma (8th), 01.42.25.96.10. Mº Alma-Marceau
Caviar House & Prunier - Caviar (€€€€)
Next door to the competition, the caviar shop and restaurant annex of Prunier (16th), specializing in French caviar. Mon-Sat L&D. 15 Place de la Madeleine (8th), 01.47.42.98.98. M° Madeleine
Epicure - Gourmet (€€€€€)
The beautiful dining room looks out over the hotel’s French garden and is a perfect setting for three-star chef Eric Frechon’s remarkable cuisine and superb desserts by pastry chef Laurent
Tucked away downstairs in the historic Guerlain boutique is a restaurant bursting with flavourful dishes. The menu and restaurant have been conceived by starred chef Guy Martin and the dishes draw their inspiration from Guerlain’s famous fragrances. 7/7, continuous, B, L, D. 68 ave des Champs-Elysées (8th) 01.45.62.54.10. M° George V
Ledoyen - Gourmet (€€€€€)
This 3-star restaurant in an elegant 18th-century pavilion with a Napoleon III decor in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées, where chef Yannick Alléno serves his unique gastronomic cuisine. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon D. Carré des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.53.05.10.00. M° Champs-Elysées-Clemenceau
Le Safran - Gourmet (€€€)
Fine French gastronomy and international
cuisine is served in the Art Deco ambiance of this restaurant located inside the Hôtel du Collectionneur. Daily L&D. 51-57 rue de Courcelles (8th), 01.58.36.67.97. M° Courcelles
Les Confidences du San Régis - French
(€€€)
In the chic 8th arrondissement just a few steps from the Avenue des Champs-Elysées is where you will find Hôtel San Régis’s cosy winter garden restaurant. Under an illuminating glass roof guests are invited to sample French dishes including duck foie gras and a scallops millefeuilles. Daily B, L&D. 12 rue Jean-Goujon (8th), 01.44.95.16.16. M˚ Champs-Elysées-Clémenceau
Maison Blanche - Contemporary (€€€€)
Chef Fabrice Giraud prepares savoury and refined fare that changes with the seasons. Located on the 7th floor of the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées, the restaurant with its garden terrace overlooks the Eiffel Tower. Mon-Fri L&D/ Sat-Sun D. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.47.23.55.99. Mº Alma Marceau
Manko Paris - Peruvian (€€)
This charming Peruvian restaurant serves up authentic fare in a beautiful setting. Try specialities like the causa, a mashed potatoes dish seasoned with lime and chilli peppers, ceviches or ember oven-cooked dishes like jumbo prawns flavoured with Nikkei marinade and served with grilled shitake mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D only. 15 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.82.28.00.15. M° Alma-Marceau
Penati Al Baretto - Italian (€€)
In the exclusive 8th arrondissement, a minute away from the Arc de Triomphe, is where you can enjoy a real treat of fine Italian cuisine in Paris. Into the elegant surroundings of this one Michelin starred restaurant - Chef Alberico Penati proposes a seasonal Menu reflective of the regions of his native Italy along with an extended wine list selection to take you on a refined gastronomic tour of that country. Mon-Fri L&D/Sat D only. 9 rue Balzac (8th), 01.42.99.80.00.M° George V
Around oPérA GArnier & PiGALLe (9th, 10th, 18th) Bouillon Chartier - Classic French (€)
The mythical Parisian eatery where you share a table with students, artists or elegant businessmen. There is a daily set menu but each day enjoy classics like hard-boiled eggs with mayonnaise or grated carrots to start followed by a hearty choucroute or chopped steak with chips. Daily continuous service L&D. 7 rue Fbg Montmartre (9th), 01.47.70.86.29. Mº Grands Boulevards
Café Pouchkine - Café (€)
This delightful tea salon, the Paris branch of the famous Moscow establishment, located in the Printemps department store serves and sells traditional Russian pastries and sweets in a beautiful
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. Check when booking that the restaurant will accept your credit card. B, L & D: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.
Le Grand Vefour | Modern Classic (1st)
Aux Lyonnais | Bistro (2nd)
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Address Book décor. Mon-Sat continuous. 64 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.42.82.43.31. M° Havre-Caumartin
Le Lumière - Gourmet (€€€)
Enjoy lunch, dinner or tea beneath a magnificent glass roof in this lovely place. There are champagne and cheese trolleys and the dessert trolley filled with traditional French pastries like éclairs and millefeuilles is a fine ending to a meal and a good reason to stop in for high tea. Daily L&D. Hôtel Scribe,1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.74.20. Mº Opéra
L’Opera Restaurant - Contemporary (€€€)
Located at the opera house, this restaurant with a contemporary decor of white and red, offers up a great view of the famous opera neighbourhood and one of the city’s largest terraces. Daily B, L&D 7am-midnight. Palais Garnier, Place Jacques Rouché (9th), 01.42.68.86.80. Mº Opéra
Wepler - Brasserie (€)
Superb seafood platters, French onion soup, homemade ice-cream and pastries are just some of the classic delights at this Parisian landmark nestled near Montmartre and Pigalle. Daily 8am12:30am.14 Place de Clichy (18th), 01.45.22.53.24. Mº Place de Clichy
Around BAstiLLe (11th, 12th) Blue Elephant - Thai (€€€)
Authentic Thai cuisine in a setting of lush plants, orchids and a waterfall. Weekly arrivals of herbs, spices, fruits and other goods direct from Bangkok. 7/7 L& D, Sun brunch & D. 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Mº Bastille
East Mamma - Italian (€)
This welcoming restaurant serves up authentic and seasonal Italian food in an inviting atmosphere with an open kitchen. The pizzas are baked in a wood fire oven and the homemade pasta dishes can be ordered for one or for four and are served in individual copper pans. Daily L&D. 133 rue du Fbg Saint-Antoine (11th), 01.43.41.32.15. M° Ledru-Rollin
Le Train Bleu - Classic French (€€€)
A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving classic French fare including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meunière and steak tartare. Daily B, L&D. Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Mº Gare de Lyon
Les Grandes Marches - Brasserie (€€)
A new ownership and a new décor have come to this pillar of the Place de la Bastille. The establishment serves up traditional French fare and superb seafood platters. Daily B, L&D. 6 Place de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Mº Bastille
Ober Mamma - Italian (€)
Homemade pizzas and pastas with ingredients from Italy are the hallmarks of this trattoria style restaurant with its friendly and energetic staff. Enjoy fresh pasta, made on the premises, with
creamy pecorino cheese sauce, black pepper and artichokes and savour an authentic tiramisu for dessert. Daily L&D. 107 blvd Richard Lenoir (11th), 01.58.30.62.78. M° Oberkampf
Septime - Classic French (€€€)
Traditional French fare featuring inventive marketbased cuisine from the talented Bertrand Grébaut is on the agenda here. Enjoy selective produce and products like the Banka trout from the Basque country with lentils and coriander in a relaxed atmosphere. Tues-Fri L, D, Mon D only. 80 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.43.67.38.29. Mº Charonne
Around MontPArnAsse (13th, 14th, 15th) Le Bar à Huîtres - Seafood (€€€)
This is the place to go for fabulous seafood platters, finely prepared fresh fish dishes and one of the best and most eclectic selections of oysters in the French capital. Main course dishes include French sea bass, lobster from Brittany and filet of beef. Daily, noon-midnight. 112 blvd Montparnasse (14th), 01.43.20.71.01. Mº Vanvin
Le Ciel de Paris - Gourmet (€€€)
Discover Paris from the 56 floor of the Montparnasse tower. With a breathtaking view, enjoy one of their foie gras offerings or try the delicious seafood. Daily L&D. 33 ave du Maine (15th), 01.40.64.77.64. Mº Montparnasse th
Le Gastroquet - Classic French (€€€)
This cosy comfortable restaurant serves up delicious traditional French cuisine. You can sample some briny oysters for starters or a salad of coquilles Saint-Jacques. Mon-Sat L&D. 10 rue Desnouettes (15th), 01.48.28.60.91. Mº Convention/Porte de Versailles
Le Quinzieme - Fusion (€€€)
up sophisticated fare in a beautiful setting. Chef Christophe Moret elaborates a carefully sourced original menu in tune with the seasons. Starters can include preserved duck foie gras with sweet and sour cherries while a seasonal main is the line caught sea bass served with cauliflower and brioche. Tues-Sat, dinner only. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.90. M° Iéna
L’Auberge Dab - Classic French (€€€)
Ample leather wall seats, bay windows, salmon drapes make for a most comfortable dining experience. Start off with some snails from Burgundy or a crab and endive salad seasoned with curry followed by the duck breast in honey and spices. Daily L&D. 161 ave de Malakoff (16th), 01.45.00.32.22. Mº Porte Maillot
L’Oiseau Blanc - Classic French (€€€)
This restaurant, bar and terrace on the top floor of the Peninsula hotel features traditional French dishes with a contemporary twist using regional products. Daily L&D. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.30. M° Charles de Gaulle-Etoile
Makassar - Contemporary (€€)
Savor a contemporary and stylish home-made French cuisine with seasonal products. Free cocktail school & DJ set By Urban People from Monday to Saturday. Daily B, L&D. 39 ave de Wagram (17th), 01.55.37.55.57. M° Wagram
Monsieur Bleu - Contemporary (€€)
This restaurant serves excellent French contemporary fare as well as international dishes. Tucked inside the Palais de Tokyo its terrace has splendid views of the Eiffel Tower. Daily, continuous from 12pm to 2am. 20 ave du Président Wilson (16th), 01.47.20.90.47. M° Iéna
Shang Palace - Chinese (€€€)
One-star star chef Cyril Lignac’s restaurant serves a market-based cuisine of deliciously prepared classics. All inclusive discovery, tasting and champagne menus are also on the agenda. Tues-Fri L&D, Sat D. 14 rue Cauchy (15th), 01.45.54.43.43. Mº Javel
This one-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel serves authentic Chinese cuisine inspired by the culinary traditions of southeast China. The art of Cantonese fine dining comes to life in the main room and three private dining rooms. Thurs-San, L&D. 10 ave d’Iéna (16th), 01.53.67.19.92. Mº Iéna
troCAdéro & Porte MAiLLot (16th, 17th)
suBurBs not too fAr froM PAris
Cristal Room Baccarat - Modern Classic (€€€)
Le Kavéri – Indian (€€)
A restaurant in the palatial headquarters of the crystal manufacturer serving a contemporary and classic cuisine conceived by Guy Martin of four appetisers, four mains and four desserts that change monthly. Mon-Sat L & D, reservations only. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th), 01.40.22.11.10. M° Boissière
Jamin - Classic French (€€)
The legendary Parisian restaurant is enjoying a renaissance, serving fine food in warm surroundings complemented by welcoming service all of which has earned it two Michelin forks. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat, D only. 32 rue de Longchamp (16th), 01.45.53.00.07. Mº Trocadéro
L’Abeille - Gourmet (€€€€€)
This 2-star restaurant in the Shangri-La hotel offers
This restaurant, recommended by Gault&Millau, serves refined dishes from the repertoire of Indian gastronomy. Starters include chicken tikka and vegetable samosas while butter chicken, tandoori masala quail or shrimp with eggplant are among the many main courses. Daily, L&D. 3-5 quai Aulagnier, Asnières-sur-Seine, 01.40.86.10.11. M° Gabriel Péri
Ma Cocotte - Bistro (€€€)
This sleek Philippe Stark designed bistro in the SaintOuen Flea Market serves up mainly traditional French fare. For starters sample the marinated salmon and for a main course a prime rib of beef or a rack of lamb. Desserts include fun selections like floating island and baba au rum. Daily L&D. 106 rue des Rosiers, Saint-Ouen, 01.49.51.70.00. M° Porte de Clignancourt
Key to dining prices per person for 3 courses without wine: € = 30€ or less, €€ = 31-50€, €€€ = 51-100€, €€€€ = 101-150€, €€€€€ = 150€ and above.
L’Abeille | Gourmet (16th)
La Tour de Montlhéry -Chez Denise | Bistro (1st) w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 93
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The Guide
By Sandra Iskander
ENTERTAINMENT
Enjoy cocktails and piano music at the new La Bibliothèque (page 96)
Photo © Angel Victor
Shows | Cocktail Bars | Nightclubs | Cabarets | Gentlemen’s Clubs
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Shows
Please Sir, May I Have Some more? The famous tale of Oliver Twist is showing at the French capital at the Salle Caveau and because of its huge success more dates have been added through to the 31st of December. The Charles Dickens novel-based musical tells the story of the orphan Oliver Twist and is the perfect show to take in while in Paris during the holidays. Performed in French with English surtitles, the audience is invited to step into the 19th century and follow little Oliver as he escapes the workhouse, falls into a life of petty crime before meeting the mysterious Mr Brownlow. Tickets available at Fnac. Salle Caveau 45-47 rue de la Boétie (8th), 01 49 53 05 07
Family Fun
Oliver Twist © Pingouin. Famille Semianyki © Alisa Gill
Photo © Angel Victor
ENTERTAINMENT
The Semianyki Family is back and they are funnier than ever. The comical Russian show, which has been touring the world since 2005, is bringing its family drama to La Cigale, with the mime show telling the dramedy story of a pregnant woman, her alcoholic husband and their four children. With the holidays here and family get-togethers just around the corner it is a comforting, and entertaining, show that leaves you knowing that other dysfunctional families exist. The Semianyki Family is showing from Tuesday to Saturday nights at 8pm with matinee shows at 4pm on Sundays. Tickets available at FnEnjoyac. La Cigale 120 blvd de Rochechouart (18th), 01 40 22 60 00
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Cocktails and Literature A fireplace, a cocktail and piano music make up the cosy and luxurious atmosphere at La Bibliothèque, one of the two bar lounges at La Réserve Paris Hotel & Spa, which recently won the Prix Villégiature awards for the Best Hotel in Europe and the Best Service in a Hotel with less than 80 rooms in Europe. Once reserved for hotel guests staying at the hotel, La Bibliothèque is now open to all guests, presenting patrons with an unforgettable evening. Surrounded by a sprawling library, you are invited to settle in in front of the fireplace, keeping you warm while you try one of the barman’s cocktails, which include Le First a tropical mix of vodka, passion fruit and coconut. La Bibliothèque 42 ave Gabriel (8th), 01 58 36 60 60
The city is known for having some of the world’s most famous monuments and one of the best ways to take them in is from up high. Le Perchoir Marais, the rooftop bar sitting at the top of the BHV Marais department store, offers a breathtaking view of the city with views of the neighbouring Hotel de Ville and Notre Dame. The bar, however, not only showcases the city at its best but is also known from its great cocktails and relaxed ambiance and this winter the bar is taking its fun factor up a notch with playing cards made available to patrons so they can enjoy a game of poker with their Mojito. Time to practice your poker face. Opens every night once the department store closes Le Perchoir 37 rue de la Verrerie (4th)
Le Perchoir Marais © Sebviardot
Drink Cocktails and Play Cards
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ADVERTORIAL
As tourists or expats in Paris there are some quirks we have all noticed among the Parisians, the way they march to their destinations, their constant pouting and the way they order at restaurants. Olivier Giraud has too, noticed that the Parisians are unique in their behaviour, and has decided to bring all those idiosyncrasies to light. Born in Bordeaux, Olivier moved to Paris to study hotel management and after graduating he moved to the Unites States where he managed a restaurant of a 5-star hotel. After four years, and many soul-searching nights, he decided to return
to France and follow his real dream of becoming a comedian. Having experienced the cultural differences between the Parisians and Americans while in Florida, and having observed for himself the tourists of all nationalities in Paris, he decided to not shy away from the hard-hitting questions of how one becomes a real Parisian. How do you grab a waiter’s attention in a café? In the metro, what do you do if you see an older lady or a pregnant woman? And how do you behave in a cab? Putting together a one man show, How to become Parisian in one hour?, the stand-up
comic will leave you rolling in your seat from laughter and 100% prepared for any situation in the City of Light. Entirely performed in English, it is a great show for everyone, including Parisians who will no doubt get a good laugh at themselves. It is not an easy feat to master the Parisian attitude but Olivier has put together a fail-proof guideline of French etiquette that will leave you embracing the oh la la factor. Non-stop laughter from a real Parisian guaranteed to leave you wanting more. This is THE PERFECT GUIDE to enjoy Paris and the Parisians!
SMASH HIT SHOW 100% IN ENGLISH Tickets at www.oliviergiraud.com or +33 (0) 6 98 57 45 98 Not recommended for kids under 16 years old
Le Perchoir Marais © Sebviardot
Théâtre des Nouveautés (theater with air conditioning) 24 Blvd Poissonnière (9th) Metro: Grands Boulevards
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entertainment Cabarets
She has brought sexy to the bedroom with her slinky designs and now lingerie designer Chantal Thomass has brought her some kind of sexy to the Crazy Horse cabaret. Playing guest Art Director for three months, not only having created sexy outfits for the Crazy dancers, who all uncannily sport the designer’s signature bob haircut and red pout, but she also collaborated with the cabaret team to bring guests four new acts that are performed alongside the Crazy Horse’s famous numbers. Dressing the dancers only to undress them, Thomass’s ironic contribution also sees the cabaret dressed in her signature style with the space transformed into an intimate boudoir. The Dessous Dessus (upside down) show will be playing through to the 31st of December. Crazu Horse 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32
Photo © Ellen Von Unwerth
Chantal Goes Crazy
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Moulin Rouge
Moulin Rouge © Moulin Rouge
Photo © Ellen Von Unwerth
Cabarets
CRAZY HORSE
PARADIS LATIN
A legendary cabaret synonymous with beauty, elegance, sensuality and sophistication. A show performed by 19 exceptionally beautiful dancers, bathed in richly coloured and textured lighting designs. The current show, Désirs is inspired by the endless theme of femininity. Sun-Fri at 8:15 & 10:45 pm, Sat at 7:00, 9:30 & 11:45 pm.
Le Théâtre Latin was built in 1803 and quickly became one of the chicest addresses in the Latin quarter. The theatre was re-built by Gustav Eiffel in 1889 and renamed the Paradis Latin. The current show, Paradis à la Folie!, is a magical feast for the eyes and ears. Daily 8 pm.
www.lecrazyhorseparis.com 12 ave George V (8th), 01 47 23 32 32 M° Alma-Marceau
www.paradislatin.com 28 rue du Cardinal Lemoine (5th), 01 43 25 28 28 M° Cardinal Lemoine/Jussieu
LIDO
MOULIN ROUGE
The current show, Paris Merveilles, is a wonderful song-and-dance spectacular journey into Paris with stunning sets and 600 dazzling costumes. Daily.
This famous cabaret is home to the original cancan. The current show, Féerie, sparkles with talented performers, including the 60 Doriss girls and spectacular staging. Daily.
www.lido.fr 116bis ave des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01 40 76 56 10 M° George V
www.moulinrouge.fr 82 blvd de Clichy (18th), 01 53 09 82 82 M° Blanche w w w.w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 99
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Address Book
entertainment For more detailed listings | wheretraveler.com/paris bars & wine bars Badaboum
Located a few minutes from the Place de la Bastille, this fun bar offers excellent and original cocktails. The bar also features a small but very good snacking menu. 2bis rue des Taillandiers (11th), 01.48.06.50.70. M° Bastille
The Ballroom
This sophisticated cocktail bar, frequented by the beautiful people of the city, serves up carefully mixed drinks in cosy seated areas. 58 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 09.54.37.13.65. M° Les Halles
Le Bar
The Left Bank hotel where Oscar Wilde died is a trendy spot for a cocktail redecorated with a voluptuous décor. 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Bar du Plaza Athénée
Absolute chic, with a decor that includes an impressive sculpted glass bar. 6pm-1:30am. 25 ave Montaigne (8th), 01.53.67.66.00. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Bar Le Baudelaire
This congenial bar in the Burgundy hotel is akin to an English club. Discover a host of creative cocktails. 6-8 rue Duphot (1st), 01.42.60.34.12. M° Madeleine
Experimental Cocktail Bar
A fun bar hidden in the heart of the 2nd arrondissement where you can enjoy delicious cocktails and cool music. 37 rue Saint Sauveur (2nd), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Sentier
Juveniles
This cosy and welcoming wine bar serves up fine French wines as well as wines from around the world and you can purchase bottles to take away. 47 rue de Richelieu (1st), 01.42.97.46.49. M° Pyramides
Kléber Bar
High ceilings, ornate décor and fine service are hallmarks of this elegant bar in the Peninsula Hotel. Classic cocktails, signature mixes and a fine selection of wines and champagnes are all on the menu. 19 ave Kléber (16th), 01.58.12.67.78. M° Boissière
Harry’s New York Bar
This landmark establishment is a fine place to enjoy drinks at the roomy and frendly bar. The traditional cocktail spot also serves up live piano music starting at 10pm. 5 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.42.61.71.14. M° Opéra
Le Bristol Bar | Bars & Wine Bars
Hotel Costes Bar
Moonshiner
Le Bar Brûlé
Ô Chateau
This chic bar and lounge is an ideal and pricey Parisian spot for people watching in a sumptuous décor. 239 rue Saint-Honoré (1st), 01.42.44.50.00. M° Tuileries This bar inside the W Hotel is a wonderful spot to enjoy drinks or cocktails from an eclectic menu in elegant well-dressed company. Tues-Sat 7pm-3am. 2 rue Meyerbeer (9th), 01.77.48.94.94. M° Chaussée d’Antin La Fayette
Le Bristol Bar
This discreet and elegant spot is ideal for enjoying cosy drinks including a variety of original cocktails and a fine selection of champagnes. 112 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré (8th), 01.53.43.43.00. M° Miromesnil
This speakeasy bar near the Place de la Bastille has an ambiance straight out of the 1920s complete with jazz music playing in the background. 5 rue Sedaine (11th), 09.50.73.12.99. M° Bréguet-Sabin You can taste over 40 different wines by the glass in this fun wine bar, which has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Vintage Bordeaux, Château d’Yquem and fine champagnes are among the offerings. 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau (1st), 01.44.73.97.80. M° Louvre-Rivoli
Prescription Cocktail Club
This trendy bar is excellent for delicious and original cocktails with cool music, friendly staff and tequila. 23 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.45.08.88.09. M° Mabillon
The Ice Kube
Le Bar Long
This posh bar located in the Royal Monceau is a perfect spot for a sophisticated cocktail or nightcap in a cosy setting. 37 ave Hoche (8th), 01.42.99.88.00. M° Charles-de-Gaulle-Etoile
La Closerie des Lilas
The bar of this mythical place remains magical. Thankfully some things don’t change. 171 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. M° Vavin
Chill out and sip 3 Finlandia cocktails and one shot at the city’s first ice bar. The establishment provides you with toasty garments to keep you warm while you enjoy this icily magical setting. Reservations requested. 1-5 passage Ruelle (18th), 01.42.05.20.00. M° La Chapelle
Wine by One
A stunning hotel bar replete with Louis Vuitton elevator featuring a fine selection of rare and classic champagnes. In the Radisson Blu Le Dokhan’s Hotel. 117 rue Lauriston (16th), 01.53.65.66.99. M° Victor Hugo
Enjoy a total unique wine experience in this lovely space next to the Champs-Elysées proposing 100 different wines by the glass. This atmospheric and eclectic bar has wines from all over the world that you can taste by the glass (at any time with your WINEcard), and also purchase bottles to take away. Mon-Sat noon-11pm. 27 rue de Marignan (8th), 01.45.63.18.98. Mº Franklin D. Roosevelt
Le Lucien Bar
casino
Le Dokhan’s Champagne Bar
Every detail here is perfect from the temperature of the vintage white port to the dimensions of the glasses for gin and tonic. Hotel Fouquet’s Barrière. 46 ave George V (8th), 01.40.69.60.00. M° George V
Le Rubis
This quintessential Parisian wine bar attracts a local clientele into its relaxed atmosphere where you can enjoy wines from the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions among others. 10 rue du Marché SaintHonoré (1st), 01.42.61.03.34. M° Pyramides
Les Jardins du Pont Neuf
With a stunning view of the City of Light’s famous bridges, this restaurant and bar has become a favourite with the city’s fun crowd, where they can go and enjoy great cocktails and say “santé” with each round. This is a perfect address for a drink before a dinner in the Quartier Latin or after a day spent at the Louvre. Quai de l’Horloge (1st), 06.30.15.83.02. M° Pont Neuf
Casinos Barrière
France’s largest casino, with elegant decor, table games and slots. Jacket and tie for men; no jeans or running shoes. 3 ave de Ceinture, Enghien-lesBains, 01.39.34.13.17. Train from Gare du Nord
jazz clubs Café Universel
Located near the Latin Quarter, this jazz club is a welcoming and intimate setting where the programme changes nightly. Vocal jam sessions are held every Tuesday night. 267 rue Saint Jacques (5th), 01.43.25.74.20. RER Luxembourg/Port Royal
Caveau de la Huchette
This club in a vaulted cellar in the heart of the Latin Quarter has been showcasing fine jazz music for the past six decades. The spot is rife with history, a Masonic lodge in the 18th century, the Knights Templar held meetings at this
Prescription Cocktail Club | Bars & Wine Bars
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location in the Middle Ages. 5 rue de la Huchette (5th), 01.43.26.65.05. M° Saint-Michel
Duc des Lombards
One of Paris’ oldest jazz clubs magnificently renovated by Andrée Putman’s collaborator, the talented Elliot Barnes. The Duc also boasts one of the best sound-systems in town and is now known as the House of Jazz. Daily performances, live recordings and a healthy mix of jazz man jams make this the address for Jazz. 42 rue des Lombards (1st), 01.42.33.22.88. M° Châtelet
Jazz Club Etoile
A true temple to jazz since it opened two decades ago, the club has welcomed the likes of Count Basie, B.B. King, Cab Calloway and Lionel Hampton. Thurs-Sat. 81 blvd Gouvion Saint-Cyr (17th), 01.40.68.30.42. M° Porte Maillot
New Morning
The legendary Parisian venue for jazz both classic and eclectic has hosted the world’s jazz greats for two decades: Art Blakey, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz... Devoted jazz fans come here to listen to two hours of solid music and the crowd begins to accumulate around 8 pm, so come early. 7-9 rue des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.45.23.51.41. M° Château d’Eau
Gentlemen’s clubs
Regulars appreciate the clubby and friendly atmosphere at this comfortable Parisian club replete with gastronomic restaurant whose cosy atmosphere is highlighted by Chesterfield armchairs. The huge dance floor in the discoteque is a dancer’s dream. 2bis ave Foch (16th), 01.45.00.45.00. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile
La Fidelité
This restaurant turns into a trendy club on Thursdays and Fridays until 2:30am with a revolving array of guest disc jockeys drawing the well-heeled onto the dance floor. 12 rue de la Fidelité (10th), 01.47.70.19.34. M° Gare de l’Est
Le Montana
This nightclub in the heart of the Saint-Germaindes-Prés neighbourhood is one of the capital’s trendiest and most select spots. The bar is on the ground floor and the dance floor, downstairs, in the vaulted cellars. 28 rue Saint Benoît (6th), 01.44.39.71.00. M° Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Le Showcase
Located beneath the Alexandre III bridge, this is a unique venue and as its name implies is a showcase for musical talent providing a clubby atmosphere. Fri-Sat 10 pm-6 am. Pont Alexandre III, Port des Champs-Elysées (8th), 01.45.61.25.43. M° Champs-Elysées Clémenceau
Le Social Club
Pink Paradise
The first table-dancing show in Paris and where everyone who still wants to party goes after all the other clubs are done for the night. Daily 10.30 pm-6 am. 36 rue de Ponthieu (8th), 06.34.57.40.19. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Secret Square
The French capital’s glamorous restaurant and club is where clients are treated to a sexy striptease show thanks to the dancers performing in a jewel-box décor. The show features 20 to 30 dancers and guests are treated to an unforgettable show. 27 ave des Ternes (17th) , 01.47.66.45.00. M° Ternes
niGht clubs L’Arc Paris
Le Duplex
Favoured by French and international celebrities, enjoy cocktails and fine music with a gorgeous view of the Arc de Triomphe. The club has a great dance floor in black and white veined marble, a fumoir and VIP loges. Thurs-Sat 11pm-5am. 12 rue de Presbourg (16th), 01.53.57.40.82. M° Charles de Gaulle Etoile
Trendy spot for enjoying excellent live music, tasty drinks and even a cigarette in the club’s smoking room. 142 rue Montmartre (2nd), 06.84.80.99.40. M° Bourse
Matignon
This exclusive club has a sexy 70s vibe complete with animal print detailing and serves up fabulous cocktails and champagne in a musicfilled ambiance to an elite crowd. The club hosts themed nights and is equipped with VIP areas. 3 ave Matignon (8th), 01.42.89.64.72. M° Franklin D. Roosevelt
Palais Maillot
A luxurious nightclub known for its gala evenings. Fridays are fashion oriented while Saturdays feature guest DJs. Fri-Sat 11:30pm-6am. 2 Place Porte Maillot (17th), 01.58.56.20.55. M° Porte-Maillot
Queen Club
This venue attracts a handsome crowd of youthful ultra-chic Parisians. This nightspot is filled with music from some of the capital’s most sought after DJs and the clubbing experience includes Disco Queen on Mondays, Ladies
Jazz Club Etoile | Nights Clubs
Night on Wednesdays and a house electro programme on Fridays. 79 ave des ChampsElysées, enter through 22, rue Quentin Bauchart (8th), M° George V
Raspoutine
This mythical Parisian venue remains an authentic night spot to enjoy cocktails and champagne in a splendid décor created by Erté. 58 rue Bassano (8th), 01.47.20.02.90. M° George V
Silencio
This private club, conceived and designed by David Lynch, offers excellent cocktails, wine and spirits, finger food and food tastings. Nonmembers are admitted after midnight. 142 rue de Montmartre (2nd), 01.40.13.12.33. M° Sentier/ Grands Boulevards
Titty Twister
This trendy loft-like club is a chic address for drinks and great music. The popular establishment has the added feature of a smoking room with a pool table as well as a tequila stand along with eclectic cocktails and large size drinks for sharing. Mon-Sat 9pm-5am. 5 rue de Berri (8th), 01.45.62.50.23. M° George V
VIP Room
One of the most exclusive clubs on the Parisian nightlife scene, this chic haven for the rich and famous lets you dance the night away to hip hop and house music. 188 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.58.36.46.00. M° Palais Royal
maGical and opera shows Le Bel Canto
Nestled on the banks of the Seine, this restaurant featuring food with a southern French and Italian flair brings you the luxury of dining while enjoying the music of, among others, Verdi, Rossini, Mozart, or Puccini performed by talented young singers from the conservatory of the Paris Opera. Daily D only from 7:30pm. 72 Quai de l’Hôtel de Ville (4th), 01.42.78.30.18. M° Pont Marie
Le Double Fond
This unique venue is dedicated to the world of magic. You can enjoy drinks or dinner at the bar or at your table served by waiters who are English-speaking magicians who perform tableside. Downstairs a host of unique, interactive and humorous magic shows are held from Wednesday to Sunday. 11 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine (4th), 01.42.71.40.20. M° Saint-Paul
Le Bel Canto
| Magical and Opera Shows w w w. w h e re t r ave l e r. c o m 101
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navigate
Paris Metro Paris is crossed by 14 Métro lines and five RER (express suburban) lines, all numbered and named for their final destination (terminus). Did you know that there are 300 stations that make up Paris’ metro system?
Each Métro trip requires one ticket regardless of how many transfers you make, though you must buy an extra ticket for the RER outside the city limits. Keep your ticket until you exit.
Tickets are sold in all stations and in cafés (tabacs) with a ticket sign outside, single (1.90€/2€ if purchased on a bus) or by 10 (un carnet - 14.10€). This map includes the new tramway line.
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“Paris Visite” passes offer unlimited travel on the Métro and buses (1-day, 2-day, 3-day, 5-day). The Métro and RER start running at 5:30am, and stop around 1 am.
While the Métro is an extremely safe way to travel, watch out for pickpockets in crowded trains and stations. For information in English, call the transportation company (RATP) directly at 08.92.68.41.14.
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My Paris
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Head Concierge AT LE PRINCE DE GALLES Tea time at Prince de Galles
Palais Royal The view from the Tour Montparnasse
Sept-Cinq
Paris is well-known for its magnificent monuments, from where would you suggest our readers get the best view of the city? Although not usually referred to as one of the most magnificent monuments in Paris, La Tour Montparnasse offers a stunning 360° view of the city, including the Eiffel Tower in the forefront. What have you recently discovered in Paris that you would advise guests to see? Thanks to a rainy day during the French Open, I rediscovered Les Serres d’Auteuil, one of the botanical gardens in Paris created during the reign of Louis XV, hosting many plant species, including incredible cactus and orchids in its greenhouses.
What is a location in Paris that pleasantly surprised you? Le Sept-Cinq with two concept stores in Paris showcases only Parisian designers with a lovely selection of clothes, accessories and jewellery. Where would you recommend our readers to celebrate a birthday party or a bachelor/ bachelorette party? Le Pavillon Puebla, nestled in the heart of the Parc des Buttes Chaumont, offers an “out of the city” atmosphere with a great ambiance. Where is one of the areas in Paris that is ideal for a leisurely stroll? The riverbanks, now almost all closed to traffic, are a great way to discover Paris from another point of view. Many amazing monuments and buildings are close to the Seine, including fascinating bridges, and one can travel in time while strolling along the river. As the fashion capital, which area do you think showcase the best fashions? Le Bon Marché, the oldest department store
in Paris and close to Saint-Germain-des-Prés is the perfect starting point for a shopping spree. Close to it, the part of Rue de Grenelle between Boulevard Raspail and Place Michel Debré hosts a great selection of shoe stores and the surrounding streets are filled with boutiques.
My perfect day 9am: Start central with a breakfast at Claus, on Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau and then admire the Palais Royal and its stunning gardens 12pm: Get some delicacies at La Grande Epicerie 4pm: Enjoy afternoon tea in our bar Les Heures with the delightful treats from our pastry chef Nicolas Paciello 9pm: Admire a performance at the Theâtre des Champs-Elysées
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Your Guide to the World
Tour Montparnasse © istock; Palais Royal © Paris Tourist Office - David Lefranc
For our readers who are looking for a traditional Parisian bistro serving authentic French fare, where would you book them a table? Les Marches, close to the Palais de Tokyo, is a great casual bistro offering heart-warming French food in a real Parisian atmosphere.
106 WHERE Paris I december 2016
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