in the Salish language. The spot where Lolo It’s the only place along the entire Corps of Discovery Creek flows into the Bitterroot River is route where visitors can say with certainty that they called Tmsmłí , translated as “No Salmon.” are walking in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark.” All Montana state parks emphasize understanding and respecting the land’s significance to indigenous people. MacPherson caused by the Great Falls of the Missouri still medication caused an unfortunate side and her staff have built a close relationship fresh in their minds, the expedition leaders effect of instant diarrhea. with the Salish–Pend d’Oreille Culture Com- decided on a different route. These and other findings led researchers mittee. The park’s visitor center contains Based on Toby’s recommendation and to the campsite’s true location. Travelers’ exhibits on the area’s long Indian history, their knowledge that the Pacific Ocean lay to Rest remains the only archaeologically and MacPherson ensures that Native Amer- the west, the expedition left Travelers’ Rest verified Lewis and Clark campsite along the ican culture is the focus of many educational on September 11 and headed over the rugged expedition’s entire route from St. Louis to programs for visitors and local school kids. Bitterroot Mountains for a near-fatal, 11-day the Pacific and back. Travelers’ Rest is also an extremely crossing. Remembering the site as a good important stop for history buffs following the place to camp, they returned to Travelers’ BEAUTIFUL PLACE TO PLAY route of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Rest on their journey back east in 1806 from The stream, vistas, wildlife, and open forests Members of the expedition, led by Shoshone June 30 to July 3. that made the site such an appealing place guide Toby, arrived here on September 9, For years, historians estimated that the to camp throughout history make it a won1805, exhausted from their trip over snowy campsite was approximately 1.5 miles from derful recreation destination today. Visitors Lost Trail Pass. They made camp near Lolo the current site. After Greg E. Moulton pub- fish and swim in Lolo Creek on summer Creek, on a spot Meriwether Lewis dubbed lished the 13-volume The Journals of the Lewis days, walk their dogs or ride bikes on the “Travellers Rest.” and Clark Expedition in the 1980s, historians well-maintained paths, and search for some “It’s the only place along the entire Corps and archaeologists began to reexamine the of the 138 bird species recorded within the of Discovery route where visitors can say with location based on the explorers’ maps and park boundaries. certainty that they are walking in the footsteps written descriptions in the journals. Missoula Just a few minutes from Lolo and only a of Lewis and Clark,” MacPherson says. archaeologist Daniel S. Hall led an extensive half-hour drive from downtown Missoula, During their stay, Lewis and Clark were survey starting in the late 1990s to determine the park’s recreational use has skyrocketed visited by Salish who told them of the stream’s the true location. He and colleagues uncov- over the past decade. When the coronavirus “No Salmon” name. It was a momentous meet- ered fire-cracked rock that indicated the began sending even more people outdoors, ing. The explorers had wondered whether campsite’s hearth, and lead used to repair visitation increased by 50 percent over two continuing north (downstream) on the Bitter- and manufacture firearms. years, from 2019 to 2021. Some came to see root would eventually lead them to the CoEven more conclusive was discovery of the famous Lewis and Clark campground, lumbia River and then the Pacific. But the lack mercury-laced soil in what was determined but most were there to recreate in beautiful, of salmon in Lolo Creek meant none in the to be the expedition’s latrine. In his journal, natural surroundings. Bitterroot, which Lewis correctly reasoned Lewis noted that Corps members comTravelers’ Rest is used by Missoulians, was caused by a waterfall somewhere down- monly used Dr. Benjamin Rush’s Bilious vacationers making a quick detour off U.S. stream blocking upstream migrations of the Pills for a range of ailments. Dubbed Highways 12 or 93, and Lolo residents, ocean-running species. With the long delay “Rush’s Thunderbolts,” the mercury-rich whose town lacks a city park. “Many resi-
aci MacPherson still winces when she thinks of how terrible the collision could have been. The near miss occurred in April 2021, while the Travelers’ Rest State Park manager was repairing an outdoor exhibit. She noticed a group of senior visitors stopping along a paved trail to read interpretive signs. Then she saw, on a hilltop above the trail, a group of local boys on bicycles begin their descent. Despite MacPherson’s loud warning, the boys bombed down anyway, narrowly missing the older visitors. This potentially dangerous encounter Susie Wall is a writer in Missoula. 14 | MONTANA OUTDOORS | MAY–JUNE 2022
exemplifies the challenges that MacPherson, her staff, and park volunteers face each year: how to protect and interpret a National Historic Landmark while managing the park’s growing recreational use. “We’re trying to educate these new visitors about not harming the park’s historical and cultural resources and also about valuing those resources,” MacPherson says. CULTURAL CROSSROADS Travelers’ Rest, on a clear mountain stream near U.S. Highway 12, a few miles west of Lolo and 15 miles south of Missoula, was established as a National Historic Landmark in 1960 and a Montana state park in 2001.
The 65-acre site contains a visitor center and museum with Corps of Discovery and American Indian culture exhibits, picnic tables and shelters, a half-mile paved trail that encircles the Lewis and Clark Expedition’s historic campsite, and two gravel trails to Lolo Creek and the Bitterroot Trail along nearby U.S. Highway 93. The scenic spot has long attracted travelers. The site is a trail junction within the expansive aboriginal lands occupied by the Salish, Pend d’Oreille, and Nez Perce peoples, who moved through here following seasonal food sources, from bison to camas roots. Many traditional place names in the Bitterroot Valley are among the oldest words
LEFT TO RIGHT: VICKI CORREIA; ANDY AUSTIN/MONTANA STATE PARKS
M
DIGITAL ILLUSTRATION USING ARTWORK FROM E.S. PAXSON
Growing recreational use challenges Lewis and Clark and Indian history preservation and interpretation at Travelers’ Rest State Park. By Susie Wall
MIXED USE Above left: A marker indicates the park’s National Historic Landmark status. Above right: A family visits Lolo Creek. Growing recreational use from nearby communities puts pressure on historical sites and threatens to overwhelm the park’s original preservation and interpretation mission. MONTANA OUTDOORS | MAY–JUNE 2022 | 15
dents there have adopted this state park as a place to fill that void,” MacPherson says. The park manager welcomes the new visitors. “Part of our mission as a state park is to promote outdoor activities and their associated physical and mental health benefits,” MacPherson says. But she’s concerned that many newcomers don’t recognize the park’s other mission: to protect and interpret historical and cultural landmarks. She, her staff, and the park’s many volunteers worry that people who venture off trails could disturb or damage significant sites. Or that unleashed dogs
DIGGING DOGS Another concern: off-leash pets disturbing historical sites. 16 | MONTANA OUTDOORS | MAY–JUNE 2022
could dig up historically or culturally impor- KEEPING THINGS SAFE tant areas. “There’s only been one archaeo- The Travelers’ Rest parking lot gate shuts at logical survey here, so we don’t know what 6 p.m., but there’s no way to close off the else of significance is at the park,” says entire park. People regularly enter after hours MacPherson. “We have a responsibility to to swim in the creek or run the trails when no ensure that anything that’s undiscovered is staff or volunteers are there to monitor use. kept from being disturbed or stolen.” In recent years, MacPherson has seen We have a responsibility tire tracks of ATVs and motorcycles crossing to ensure that anything the Lewis and Clark campsite. “I think they see it as just this big open space,” she says. that’s undiscovered Another concern is the safety of older is kept from being visitors, often there to learn about the park’s disturbed or stolen.” history, who could get knocked down by the growing number of cyclists, joggers, and As in most Montana state parks, Travelenthusiastic dogs. “I’m not saying it’s a huge issue at this point, but I have seen it almost ers’ Rest lacks adequate paid staff to enforce rules: no unleashed pets, no motorized use happen,” MacPherson says. Travelers’ Rest isn’t the only state park of trails, and no off-trail walking or cycling. where growing recreational use threatens “For the most part, people follow the rules,” historical preservation. “Recently we’ve had says Loren Flynn, FWP regional state parks visitors carve their names into historical struc- manager in Missoula. “But there’s always a tures at Elkhorn, create erosion on archaeolog- few who don’t. And with increased visitaical deposits at Madison Buffalo Jump, and tion, that number is growing.” MacPherson, who also manages two loot a bison skeleton from Makoshika,” says Rachel Reckon, who manages FWP’s Heritage other state parks in the Bitterroot Valley, is Resource Program. “It’s definitely a growing helped by an FWP park ranger and visitor center assistant. To manage the thousands concern across our state park system.”
FROM TOP: ANDY AUSTIN/MONTANA STATE PARKS; SHUTTERSTOCK
NO MOTORS ALLOWED Cyclists ride past the meadow where Captains Meriwether Lewis and William Clark and their men camped next to Lolo Creek, one of the most significant sites of the Corps of Discovery expedition. Park manager Maci MacPherson says she has seen tracks of after-hours ATV and motorcycle riders running across the historic location. “I think they see it as just this big open space,” she says.
ALL PHOTOS BY VICKI CORREIA EXCEPT VISITOR CENTER: ANDY AUSTIN/MONTANA STATE PARKS
of visitors who arrive each week during the summer, she also relies on a legion of volunteers. Each weekend volunteers roam the park, greeting visitors and offering gentle reminders to follow rules. “All some people need is to be asked to slow down on their bikes or put their dog on a leash,” says Flynn. He says the park could add more signs warning people to stay on trails and follow other rules, “but they don’t have the same effect as someone giving the message in person.” That thinking is behind the Bark Ranger Program, devised by the park’s two AmeriCorps volunteers. Patrolling volunteers bring their own dogs—on a leash, of course—which provides opportunities to more easily talk to
visitors with their own dogs about the importance of keeping all pets leashed. Travelers’ Rest State Park is fortunate to receive support from Travelers’ Rest Connection (TRC), a “friends of ” group that provides much-needed funding and volunteers and hosts public educational programs. Molly Stockdale, executive director, says most visitors using the park for recreation are from Lolo. She hopes to change that from a challenge to an opportunity. “If you can foster pride in what they see as their community park, then they may want to protect it and set good examples for others,” she says. One example was TRC’s invitation for local families to paint benches in the outdoor classroom with images related
to the park, from native plant life to William Clark’s dog, Seaman. “The idea is that a kid who has spent time beautifying the park is a lot less likely to damage it later,” says Stockdale. “It’s all about pride, ownership, and stewardship.” Nurturing stewardship, MacPherson adds, is the park’s ultimate goal. “What we’re trying to figure out now is the best way to engage all these new visitors—not just to protect the park but even more to help people understand why this place is so significant,” she says. “If they then take that insight back to their friends and family, I think we can grow support and stewardship for Travelers’ Rest beyond what we ever imagined.”
PARK OF MANY USES Clockwise from top left: Dog walking; a Salish elder giving a talk on local Native culture; teaching a family about Indian tools and lodging in the visitor center; walking across Lolo Creek.
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