Surviving a
Prairie Ocean Adventure
THE WEATHER
How to get to, camp at, fish on, and return from a Fort Peck Reservoir angling expedition—and live to tell about it. By Bill Schneider. Illustrations by Ed Jenne
“Why do I love this place?” I asked myself while standing chest deep in water, trying to keep my boat from slamming sideways onto the shore as I gasped for breath between 6-foot waves crashing over my head. “It’s certainly not loving me back today.” This is what can happen on Fort Peck Reservoir when you make a bad decision, as I did that afternoon. It was our last day, and my friends and I decided to beach the boat while we cleaned fish, so we could dump the entrails in deep water before taking out. I saw the thunderstorm coming, but never
imagined it could nail us with 70-mph winds (gusting to 90 mph, I later learned.) An hour later, my boat barely saved, I chided myself for a rookie mistake. I’ve fished Fort Peck for 12 years, six or seven weeks per year, and the catching rarely disappoints. Good fishing usually attracts
Bill Schneider, editor of Montana Outdoors from 1970-78, co-founder of FalconGuides, and the author of 20 guidebooks, lives in Helena. Ed Jenne is an illustrator in Missoula.
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hordes of anglers, but even though I see a few more boats launching every year, the pressure can be minuscule, especially on weekdays, considering the size of the reservoir (245,000 acres, twice the size of Flathead Lake) or the heavy use that’s common on more-accessible warmwater fisheries. Hard to imagine, but Fort Peck Reservoir, or “Peck” to local anglers, is 134 miles long and has 1,520 miles of shoreline, more than the entire West Coast (California, Oregon, and Washington combined). Hence, the apropos moniker, the Prairie Ocean. Most anglers target walleye, but the reservoir also has excellent fishing for northern pike, smallmouth bass, crappies, channel catfish, lake trout, and even chinook salmon. Peck is an incredibly productive and diverse fishery with 47
species of game and nongame fish. So why aren’t campgrounds and boat ramps crowded with anglers eager to take advantage of all this great fishing? To put it mildly, Peck has a well-deserved reputation as a tough place to fish, with difficult and remote access, limited campground amenities, almost no cell service, and dangerously foul weather. It takes an entire day to get there from most places, including a couple of hours on bumpy, unpaved roads, and there’s often no way to get help, services, or supplies. Obviously, Peck is not for everybody. It’s mainly used by serious anglers with serious fishing boats. You don’t get up in the morning and decide to go to Peck on a whim. You spend days preparing like you’re going on an expedition, which you are. You must be selfreliant and bring everything you need
In spring and throughout summer, expect a major thunderstorm or two. While fishing, stay on red alert for incoming storms H because you can’t run down to the store for something you forgot. You need a back-up for everything important, along with the tools and know-how to fix things that will inevitably break. Despite the challenges, many anglers want to try Peck but aren’t sure what to expect or how to prepare. Here’s what you need to know for your first expedition:
MANAGEMENT The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers manages most access points and campgrounds. Montana Fish, Wildlife & Parks manages fishing access sites (FASes) at Duck Creek and Rock Creek. Management of the Hell Creek recreation area is transitioning to the Little Shell Tribe. The U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service manages the Charles M. Russell National Wildlife Refuge, which surrounds the reservoir. GUMBO If you don’t know about gumbo, read up on it before heading for Peck. This clay-rich soil is everywhere, and it’s as slick as oil on glass when wet. It sticks to everything and is difficult to remove. A soaking rain can turn access roads, even those with significant
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THE GUMBO
gravel, into endless quagmires. Roads often become impassable, even for rigs not towing anything, but especially for those pulling trailers or fifth-wheelers. Anglers sometimes have to leave their campers and boats and return days later to retrieve them. Tip: Bring an extra pair of shoes or sandals to wear in the boat so you can keep gumbo out of it. BOAT ACCESS Given its size, you’d think Fort Peck would have lots of public access. But because the area is so remote and sites are so hard to maintain, the reservoir has only two main public access points: Fort Peck West, near the dam in the town of Fort Peck, and Hell Creek, on the south shore straight north of Jordan. There are even more-remote ramps at Nelson Creek, Rock Creek Marina, Rock Creek FAS, Duck Creek FAS, the Pines, Bone Trail, Devil’s Creek, Fourchette Bay, and Crooked Creek. Devils Creek (no dock) and Bone Trail are rarely used because they’re small, are far off the beaten path, and have long, rough, gumbo access roads. Tip: Bring a day’s worth of extra food and water in case you break down or get stuck during or shortly after a soaking rain.
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Anglers sometimes have to leave their campers and boats, and return days later to retrieve them. Even for rigs not towing anything, wet roads in the Fort Peck area can become impassable. H CAR CAMPING Peck has a wide range of camping opportunities. The Downstream, West End, Fort Peck West, and Hell Creek campgrounds provide electrical hookups, showers, flush toilets, fish-cleaning stations, marina stores, and more. Rock Creek and Crooked Creek have small marina stores and potable water. The Pines has potable water and a fishcleaning station. The rest are primitive campgrounds equipped with vault toilets, picnic tables, and fire pits, but not much else. Bring all the drinking water, ice, firewood, and gas you’ll need, along with sturdy garbage bags to pack out your trash. If you need to vacate a campground for
more than a day, never leave your camper or fifth-wheeler unattended in a campsite. Not only is that discourteous, it violates agency regulations. Instead, find an out-of-the-way place to store your camper so you don’t tie up prime campsites others might want to use in your absence. And for a bit of rare good news: With the exception of the four developed campgrounds, camping is free! Tip: If tent camping, make sure your tent can survive gale-force winds. Make sure it is staked down securely. Don’t leave anything in camp that can blow away at night or while you’re out fishing on the reservoir. BOAT CAMPING You can boat camp anywhere on the reservoir, choosing from hundreds of prime and rarely, if ever, used campsites. There are no facilities, of course, so bring everything you need and leave no sign that you camped there. Tip: Watch the forecast. Don’t boat camp in wet weather unless you want a thick layer of gumbo covering everything you own. WEATHER Like in most of Montana, the weather at Peck is unpredictable. One thing you should count
A nighttime thunderstorm could blow in, If your big motor fails, it will get you safely and you might be shopping for a new boat. back to camp. Experienced Fort Peck anglers bring their boat ashore every evening and launch again COMMUNICATIONS in the morning. When phone companies say they have service You can buy boat gas only at Fort Peck “almost everywhere,” that “almost” includes West, Rock Creek, Hell Creek, and Crooked Fort Peck. Verizon has some service, but Creek. For all other access sites, bring AT&T has no service near the reservoir. enough gas for the entire trip. Marine radios work well on the eastern Other equipment to bring: small genera- portions of the reservoir around the dam, tor to charge trolling batteries, battery Dry Arm, and Hell Creek, but get increascharger, compressor, jump starter, jumper ingly unreliable as you go farther west. cables, two spare tires for the truck and boat, Tip: For the extra cautious, bring a satelself-sealing liquid for tires, extra batteries in lite phone or other emergency communicaall the sizes you might need, fuses, extra tion device like a SPOT or InReach satellite bolts and screws that may shake loose, and transmitter. tools to fit every bolt and screw in your boat, trailer, and camper. FISH CLEANING Tips: Make sure you have good boat Fort Peck West, Hell Creek, the Pines, and trailer tires, which take a beating on the Rock Creek FASes have fish-cleaning starough access roads. Put a kicker motor on tions. Otherwise, you have two options: gut your boat even if you don’t use it for trolling. your fish out on the lake in your boat or on
To Glasgow Duck Creek Recreation Area
Fort Peck West
Fort Peck Dam
Bear C Bayreek
The Pines Recreation Area
m
r
BOATS You can fish from any type of boat, including fishing kayaks, but most anglers use Vhulled craft suitable for long runs, 16-foot or longer with at least a 60-horsepower motor. If you have a small boat, don’t venture too far from camp. Fortunately, the fishing is often just as good close to boat ramps as it is miles away. Avoid beaching your boat overnight unless you’re sure of the weather forecast.
The PRAIRIE OCEAN (aka Fort Peck Reservoir)
Dry A
on is the reservoir being so windy one or two days of your trip that you can’t fish it, requiring you to spend the time hunkered down in camp. Also, in late spring and throughout summer, expect a major thunderstorm or two. While fishing, stay alert for incoming storms and try not to get caught out on the reservoir. If you get nailed by a big storm, seek shelter in a protected bay and wait out the bad weather rather than try to cross the rough, lightning-exposed water to make it back to camp. Tip: Prepare for the worst thunderstorm of your life and bring the best rain gear you can afford, something suited for working on a crab boat in Alaska. Also, start fishing early; morning storms are rare.
Rock Creek State Park Rock Creek Marina
Fourchette Bay
Hell Creek
To Jordan
Boat Ramp
Nelson Creek Recreation Area
NOTE: Some boat ramps may be unusable due to low water levels on the reservoir. Always check the FWP, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, BLM, and other websites for reservoir levels and current boat ramp conditions before heading to Fort Peck.
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THE WIND
Zshore and dispose of the entrails in deep water (which is legal, by the way), or clean the fish in camp and take the entrails out to deep water first thing the next morning. But remember: While on the water, you have to keep the head, skin, fins, and tail attached to all harvested fish so a game warden can identify and count the species. Also, never leave entrails in or around camp or on the shoreline near camp. Bring a cooler full of block ice to keep fish cold. Pack in self-sealing bags and use a Sharpie to mark them with number of fish, species, and date. See page 80 of the 2022 FWP Fishing Regulations for fish and fillet transport regulations. Tip: Water near shore is often muddy. Bring a pail in the boat. At the end of the fishing day, fill it with clean lake water to use back at camp for washing fillets. Bring a second bucket for entrails that you can dump in deep water after launching the next morning.
H Prepare for the worst thunderstorm of your life and bring the best rain gear you can afford, something suited for working on a crab boat in Alaska. H
THE PAYOFF
BUGS Thankfully, mosquitoes are rarely a problem on or around Fort Peck. But in warm weather, annoying, nonbiting flies and gnats buzz around. The worst insect pests are those nasty little flies that attack your ankles on hot days out on the water. Tip: If wearing sandals, wear socks or bring a pair in the boat in case the ankle-biters are out.
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FISHING PROTOCOL A few of my pet peeves: u Never go between a boat that’s fishing on a point and the point itself, even if it looks like there is enough room. That is their water. Go around them on the lake side. u Never share a point with another boat unless invited. Fort Peck is a massive reservoir with many other points to fish. u Leave good fishing points near camp for anglers with small boats who can’t do long runs. MAPS AND MORE Be sure to contact the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers for its “Fort Peck Lake and Dam” brochure. Contact the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service for its free map of the Charles M. Russell Wildlife Refuge. Due to persistant extreme drought throughout the upper Missouri River watershed, water levels at Fort Peck Reservoir were at extremely low levels when this issue went to press in early February 2022. Crooked Creek access, especially, will likely be closed for a second year in 2022. However, conditions could change depending on late winter and early spring precipitation. Before heading to Peck, visit the FWP, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, and other websites for reservoir levels and boat ramp conditions.