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青出於藍: BUAISOU之日本天然藍染工作 Absolute Blue: BUAISOU Works with Japanese Natural Indigo

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BUAISOU 日本天然藍染工作

青 出 於 藍 Absolute Blue

BUAISOU Works with Japanese Natural Indigo


目錄 CONTENT

引言 PREFACE

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展覽紀錄片 EXHIBITION DOCUMENTARY

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展場圖片及展覽作品 EXHIBITION VIEW AND EXHIBITING WORKS

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藝術家簡介 ARTIST PROFILE

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BUAISOU的藍染全風貌 BUAISOU’S TOTAL MOOD OF INDIGO

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須藤玲子 Sudo Reiko

BUAISOU的極致之藍從何而來 ? WHERE DOES BUAISOU’S ABSOLUTE BLUE COME FROM?

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高橋瑞木 Takahashi Mizuki

團隊名單 STAFF CREDITS

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引言

PREFACE

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按下播放圖示以觀看短片 Click the play button to view the video

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《四木三草圖案夾染暖簾》 2022 染色麻 250 x 400 厘米 夾染是一種曾經式微的傳統染色方法,經BUAISOU重拾這個技 法而復興。製法是把布料緊緊夾在兩塊雕花木板之間,再把染 料倒入木板上的小孔。BUAISOU並沒雕刻板面,而是把木板切 割成流體形狀,創造出有如等高線圖般的疊層,所製圖案包括 代表長壽吉祥的六邊形龜甲紋圖案,以及古時「四木三草」的 植物圖像:「四木」為桑、楮、茶、漆,以及「三草」為藍、

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紅花、麻。


4 Trees and 3 Plants Pattern Noren 2022 Dyed hemp 250 x 400 cm

A revival of the abandoned kyokechi, also called ita-jime board clamping, this ancient method had not put into practical production until BUAISOU took up the challenge. Instead of carving the surfaces, they cut the boards into fluid shapes to create unique contour map-like overlays and pouring indigo between the pieces. The patterns include auspicious choju-kissho symbols, kikko-mon tortoise shell hexagons, as well as hints of early modern shiboku-sanso plant imagery: mulberry, paper mulberry, tea, lacquer, indigo, safflower and hemp.

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製作原創牛仔褲

Making Original Jeans

BUAISOU的創始成員楮覺郎對古董牛仔褲的世界相

Kaji Kakuo, a founding member of BUAISOU,

當着迷,更因此在藝術學校研習紡織染料。從那時

was motivated to study textile dyes in art

起,他就一直希望能夠從事日本天然藍染工作和自行

school because he was mesmerised by vintage

製作牛仔褲。夢想終於在2018年實現──第一款型

jeans. Since then, Kaji has pursued his dream

號是產於2018年的810,式樣沿用了19世紀末發明

to make jeans with Japanese natural indigo

的第一條牛仔褲款式,並以天然靛藍染色;2020年

dye. Until now, BUAISOU has produced three

生產的第二款型號819則採用較薄的牛仔布,減省製

models; the first model in 2018, 810, follows

作步驟以令手工牛仔褲能達到相對合理的價格;於

the pattern of the very first jeans designed in

2022年推出的最新型號1194參考了1870年代的古董

the late 19th century. The second model, 819,

牛仔布,採用相同的紗線支數和編織結構。

produced in 2020, uses thinner denim with less fabrication steps to achieve a relatively affordable

BUAISOU的原創牛仔褲承襲了最初「牛仔褲作為工

price for hand-made jeans. The latest model,

人服裝」的原型設計,寬鬆的剪裁令工人可以輕鬆彎

1194, was completed this year. Referencing

身和蹲下,而且久經穿著及洗滌後,牛仔褲會更貼合

vintage denim fabric woven in the 1870s, 1194,

身體,猶如變成第二層皮膚。

launched in 2022, is made with the same yarn count and weave structure as vintage denim

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woven in the 1870s. BUAISOU’s original jeans follow the archetype of denim workwear with a loose silhouette allowing workers to bend and squat easily. The longer they are worn and washed, the more they fit like a second skin for the wearer.


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Absolute Blue: BUAISOU Works with Japanese Natural Indigo 青出於藍:BUAISOU之日本天然藍染工作 BUAISOU :石田 宏武、楮 覚郎 、小園 忠 、西本 京子 、大須 賀一真 、 結城 研 聯合策展人:須藤玲子、高橋瑞木 展覽設計:田代昌史 多媒體設計:Twelve Inc.(京都) 影片攝製:川口泰吾 錄音:原 勇樹

Absolute Blue: BUAISOU Works with Japanese Natural Indigo BUAISOU : Ishida Hiromu, Kaji Kakuo, Kozono Tadashi, Nishimoto Kyoko, Osuka Kazuma, Yūki Ken Co-Curator : Sudō Reiko and Takahashi Mizuki Exhibition Design : Tashiro Masafumi Multimedia Design : Twelve Inc., Kyoto Videographer : Kawaguchi Taigo Sound Recording : Hara Yūki

按此瀏覽楮覺郎和田代昌史的訪問短片

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Click here to watch the interview video of Kaji Kakuo and Tashiro Masafumi.


創始捐助機構 Founding Donor

主要捐助機構 Main Donor

由奥村商事株式会社、株式会社BONARM及岡田育大支援BUAISOU藝術製作 Artwork production of BUAISOU is supported by Okumura & Co., Bonarm and Ikuhiro Okada

出版 Published by 六廠基金會有限公司 Mill 6 Foundation Limited 荃灣白田壩街 45 號南豐紗廠 CHAT 六廠 CHAT/MILL6 FoundationThe Mills 45 Pak Tin Par Street Tsuen Wan, N.T., Hong Kong T (852) 3979 2301 W www.mill6chat.org E enquiry@mill6chat.org ISBN: 978-988-79608-6-7 2023年5月出版 Published in May 2023 版權所有。除構成合理交易的私人學習、研究和評論外,在未經出版者的書面同意下, 均不被授予任何許可複製、印製或以數碼、影印、攝錄等其他形式發佈數碼圖錄的 任何內容。

© 2023 版權屬於藝術家、作家及六廠基金會有限公司 © 2023 the artist, authors and Mill 6 Foundation Limited

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