Young Chu during the first Korean ascent of the Northwest Face of Half Dome (VI 5.9 A1) in 1979.
CALIFORNIA CLIMBER:
YOUNG CHU INTERVIEW + DEAN FLEMING
AS CALIFORNIANS WHEN WE ABOUT CLIMBING IN THE 1970S WE TYPICALLY PICTURE THE SMOOTH GRANITE CLIFFS OF YOSEMITE VALLEY WHERE MYTHICAL FIGURES OF OUR GOLDEN AGE PUSHED THE STANDARDS OF TECHNICAL CLIMBING ON THE VALLEY’S SHEER SUNNY FACES. WE IMAGINE THESE LEGENDARY CLIMBERS NOT ONLY DURING THEIR GROUNDBREAKING ASCENTS, BUT ALSO LOUNGING ALONG THE BANKS OF THE MERCED RIVER, SMOKING POT IN THEIR FREE-OF-RENT TENT CITIES AND VOLKSWAGEN BUSES, SNATCHING TRAYS OF FREE FOOD FROM THE LODGE, FLIRTING WITH ATTRACTIVE TOURISTS - A VERITABLE GARDEN OF EDEN WHICH MAY HAVE BEEN THE YOSEMITE VALLEY OF THE 1970S. YET AS CLIMBING ADVANCED AND GAINED POPULARITY ACROSS THE GLOBE, THERE WERE FEW BRAVE ENOUGH TO PUSH THE STANDARDS OF CLIMBING WITH FAR LESS FREE TIME AND ACCESS TO SOLID ROCK AND SAFE CLIMBING EQUIPMENT. WITH MOST CITIZENS HAVING ALMOST NO ACCESS TO MODERN CLIMBING EQUIPMENT, ENTERING THE SPORT OF ROCK CLIMBING IN EARLY 1970S KOREA WAS DIFFICULT AND DANGEROUS. IT WAS HERE THAT A FLEDGLING CLIMBER AND MOUNTAINEER BY THE NAME OF YOUNG CHU GAINED NOT ONLY THE TECHNICAL AND PHYSICAL PREREQUISITES OF CLIMBING, BUT ALSO, BY WAY OF NECESSITY, THE CREATIVITY AND VISION TO DESIGN AND CONSTRUCT HOME-MADE CLIMBING GEAR FOR HIMSELF AND HIS PARTNERS. 38| WINTER 2019
Despite the challenges of learning to climb in Vietnam-era Korea, or perhaps because of it, Young Chu went on to become the first Korean in history to climb some of the World’s most intimidating faces. After moving to California in the late 1970’s, Chu quickly made ascents of almost all of Yosemite’s major formations, becoming the first Korean to climb the Northwest Face of Half Dome in 1979 and the first Korean to climb The Nose in 1980. After these historic ascents, Chu topped out more difficult Yosemite climbs like Triple Direct, Zenyatta Mendatta and Zodiac on El Capitan. In his over 50-year climbing career Chu has traveled the Globe to Switzerland, Pakistan, Patagonia, Alaska and beyond to climb some of the World’s most daunting formations, including the North Face of the Eiger, Nameless Tower, Great Trango Tower, Mt. McKinley and Cerro Torre. During his climbing exploits in California and across the Globe, Chu continued to dream up new ideas for climbing gear and his passion for creating climbing gear continued to grow. In 1986 Chu started the company Nelson Sports which gained a foothold by designing and manufacturing climbing shoes and other types of outdoor gear for well-regarded climbing companies like Five Ten. Chu later went on to found his own brand of climbing gear called Mad Rock, where he continues to create climbing gear and shoes. Chu also continues his passion for climbing to this day, and has completed recent ascents of difficult routes including an ascent of The Nose just three years ago in 2015. This past summer Chu completed a difficult 18-pitch ice climb on the Moose’s Tooth in Alaska called Ham and Eggs. The following interview with Young Chu was conducted over the phone in October of 2018.
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