LNE & Spa—the magazine for skin care and spa professionals February 2020
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FROM THE
EDITOR
February is always an exciting month here at LNE & Spa becuase we finally get to unvail our Best of the Best Product Award Winners! It's a great way to kick off the year celebrating amazing technology and innovation in the world of skin care. Thank you to all of you who voted tirelessly for your favorites and thank you to all the brands who participated this year! Our February Guide is all about Injectables. It feels like everyone and their mother is interested in a little injectable pick me up these days. But, how do these med spa treatments interact with your facial treatments? We've got some great content to help you navigate the world of facial fillers with your clients. We are also excited to announce this year's Main
PLAN AHEAD AND SCHEDULE YOUR SHOW EXPERIENCE TODAY! OUR ICES APP FEATURES INCLUDE...
Stage Speakers, hosted by LNE & Spa Magazine at the 2020 International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Philadelphia and Dallas coming up on March 29th and 30th and April 5th and 6th! Some familiar faces include Nerida Joy and Kelley Baker Brows, our favorite
• Live Push Notifications • Connect
in-house skin care celebs! I invite you to join us in
with Main Stage Speakers • Exhibitor Profiles • Show and Exhibitor interactive maps
giving a warm welcome to ICES newbie, but definitley an industry pro, Joanna Vargas! We are so excited for you to be inspired by her this year, so don't forget to pre-register on your conference tickets ASAP!
For real-time updates and show announcements, press allow for push notifications straight to your device.
Happy February!
Download the free app in the APP store ( Android and IOS compatible)
Managing Editor
mcristina@LNEonline.com 4
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Light Therapy
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February volume 35 number 2
contents 4 30
From the Editor Advertiser Index LNE & Spa Best 2020
10 Retinol Alternative
48
Types Of Fillers
16 How to Pair Your Equipment for the
54
Combo Treatments
21 Skin News
47 Injectables Guide
24
Spa of the Month
62
Widening the Lens of Clean Beauty
28
Spa News
67
Organic & Wellness News
business
spa
o&w
10 Retinol Alternative
24 Spa of the Month
62 Widening the Lens of Clean Beauty
40
Wellness for Med Spas
68
Sultry Eye
45
Business News
73
Image News
46
#esty2esty
40 Wellness for Med Spas
image
skin
Ultimate Facial!
guide
74
68 Sultry Eye
Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage
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HYALURONIC FILLER FORMULATED WITH A
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3929 PONCE DE LEON BLVD. CORAL GABLES, FLORIDA 33134 USA: 800.471.0229. Worldwide: 305.443.2322. Fax: 305.443.1664. LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Cristina Beecham mcristina@LNEonline.com Director of Marketing Mika Diaz mika@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com Editorial Assistant Samantha Garcia samantha@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Elizabeth Canler elizabeth@LNEonline.com Show Director Danni Boucher danni@lneonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Jose Daniel De La Rosa daniel@LNEonline.com Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47
C ontributors Contributor List: Andrea Gregaydis Ashely Sachs Aurora Solis
Cristina Beecham Daniel Clary Sherrie Tennessee
Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.
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CLEAR DEFINITION Control and define brows with our easy-to-use, breakthrough brow gels, each fortified with Peptides for long-term brow beauty. Now available in Clear. To inquire about becoming a RevitaLash® Cosmetics reseller, please call (877) 909-5274. ETERNALLY PINK ®– RevitaLash® Cosmetics honors the courage and strength of our Co-Founder, Gayle Brinkenhoff, and that of women everywhere by supporting breast cancer awareness, research and education initiatives year-round, not just in October. This is our Eternally Pink pledge. *Survey results from an independent 7 day consumer study with 69 participants. ©2019 Athena Cosmetics, Inc.
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Retinol
Alternative Getting results with Bakuchiol by Daniel Clary
In the ever-evolving industry of skincare, where purveyors of goods are looking to capitalize on the multi-billion dollar anti-aging cosmeceuticals market, we often find ourselves sifting through “buzzwords,” scientific jargon and claims, and new ingredients that, more often than not, come without the crucial scientific evidence needed for proof of efficacy. On occasion, however, as product formulators, we get new raw material ingredients that not only galvanize our industry, but actually have solid evidence-based data to support their usage on skin. Enter Bakuchiol, the plant derived molecule being touted as the true retinol alternative. So, what is this “magical” ingredient, celebrated and glorified across all beauty sectors, all about? Let’s start at the top.
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skin Retinol Alternative
Bakuchiol is an active constituent (meroterpene phenol, in this case) found within the leaves and seeds of the botanical species known as Psoralea corylifolia, or Babchi, as it’s commonly known in the Asian countries where it grows wild. In fact, this plant species has been used for hundreds of years, if not longer, in traditional eastern medicine cultures to treat a variety of systemic and cutaneous ailments. Its therapeutic value is undeniable as it possesses numerous pharmacological properties. So, it ultimately begs the question – is Bakuchiol a viable alternative to Retinol, and can it achieve the same clinical objectives? Retinol is a natural, alcohol form of vitamin A in the family of molecules known as retinoids. Other common natural retinoids used in skin care are Retinyl Palmitate (ester form), Retinaldehyde (aldehyde form), and Retinoic Acid (the active acid form), with each maintaining their unique molecular characteristics, pharmacokinetics, and potency. These forms of vitamin A have been used extensively since the 12
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1940’s to treat a variety of skin conditions, including acne and aging, and they have an abundance of data and statistics proving their therapeutic potential. Vitamin A, and its analogues, are essential cellular “nutrients” that play significant roles in cellular growth and differentiation. In fact, aging can largely be considered a nutritional deficiency, as the suns UV rays rapidly deplete the vitamin A levels in our skin. They are true anti-aging workhorses! With the evidence clearly in favor of Retinols efficacy, what problems would present that would warrant the usage of an alternative? The unfortunate downstream effects of using retinoids (with some exceptions) can be irritation, excess peeling, dryness, and enhanced sun sensitivity. All too often, retinoids are off the table for sensitive and hyperreactive skin types. In addition, your stronger pharmaceutical acid forms of vitamin A can deleteriously impact the integrity of your skin’s protective barrier, leading to a vicious cycle of sub-clinical inflamma-
tion which is, by definition, pro-aging. While a few active raw materials presented to cosmetic formulators have made the bold claim of being retinol alternatives, none of these have come close to the retinol-like characteristics of Bakuchiol. With close scrutiny, let’s analyze the evidence. While Bakuchiols molecular structure is not identical to that of Retinols, they do have similar behavioral characteristics. From the perspective of achieving the same clinical outcomes as retinol, without the inherent negatives, Bakuchiol seems to stack up. When we look at an aged face, we see the hallmark signs of lines and wrinkles, mottled pigmentation, loss of elasticity, and an uneven skin tone. The goal of any effective anti-aging ingredient, and something Retinol is known to do well, is reverting these extrinsic symptoms back to a more youthful state. In a double-blind 2018 clinical study published in the British Journal of Dermatology, a comparative analysis was performed, with the participants
skin Retinol Alternative
INTRODUCE A NEW EXPERIENCE Alginates & Ampoules easy · immediate · noticeable either using 0.5 percent Retinol on their face, or 0.5 percent Bakuchiol. After 12 weeks, measurements were taken to assess each molecules ability to treat these cutaneous signs of aging. Surprisingly, in virtually all measurements taken, both Bakuchiol and Retinol had remarkable clinical efficacy in treating signs of photodamage, with no statistically significant difference between the two. In layman’s terms, that means they achieved the exact same performance objectives. However, unlike the Retinol group that experienced stinging, erythema, and irritation, the Bakuchiol group presented with none of these clinical adverse effects. (1) While a visual assessment of efficacy (when using these ingredients, what will consumers SEE when they look in the mirror) is often considered paramount in clinical studies, alternative types of testing do exist that exploit what an active ingredients true potential is. We know Bakuchiol achieves the same effects as Retinol from a visual and extrinsic perspective, but the real question is how it measures up from a genetic perspective. Not widely used in mass produce commercial skincare, DNA microarrays, or quantitative polymerase chain reaction (qPCR) tests can show us how a single molecule, or group of molecules, influences the genes in our cells. This is the new gold standard in proving an ingredient’s worth – highlighting what genes it turns on and which genes it can turn off. In order to establish Bakuchiols true retinollike characteristics, it was put through this type of rigorous testing and the results were published in a 2014 edition of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science. What did the data show? While Bakuchiol and Retinol do not have the same molecular structure, they do have an almost identical genetic footprint. (2) Modulation of key retinoid binding and metabolizing genes is Bakuchiols strong suit, however, not all retinoid binding genes were activated in the study. The gene expression of true retinol includes activation of retinoic
Contact: skinaccents.com | 1- 866 - 282 - 9153
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skin Retinol Alternative acid binding proteins, which gives these forms of Vitamin A their inherent toxicity and irritation potential. Bakuchiol, cleverly, bypassed the expression of these genes in particular. This upregulation (and downregulation) of gene expression, combined with genes associated with key structural proteins such as collagen, elastin, dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ) genes, hyaluronic acid and aquaporin genes, and other essential genes associated with youthful skin, are what makes Bakuchiol a TRUE functional analogue of retinol. When one needs a clear and definitive explanation of an ingredient’s therapeutic potential, you cannot get more concrete evidence than a gene expression analysis. However, healthy skin is more than just a robust production of skin proteins to reduce lines and wrinkles, as there are many complex molecular and biochemical pathways that contribute to tissue (skin in this case) behaving in a more youthful manner. Bakuchiol has proven to target all main contributing pathways linked to aging from oxidative stress, inflammation, mitochondrial cell energy production, MMP regulation, and protection against UV induced skin damage. In fact, Bakuchiol outperformed the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory capacity of commodity raw materials known to be gold standards in this category. Can it get any better? The science suggests it can. Bakuchiol has also shown significant power in treating ac-
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neic skin types, not only from its anti-inflammatory capacity, but its ability to regulate sebum output, modify the microbial ecosystem, downregulate localize hormone levels, and reduce hyperkeratinization. (3) And, finally, to further highlight this ingredients protective potential, it has proven to stop the proliferation of cutaneous malignancies such as skin cancer. (4) While Bakuchiol is a relatively new raw material available to us in skincare, it is an extremely promising active with a wealth of benefits for the skin. As more research is devoted to exploring its therapeutic potential, for now, we can confidently say that, while not identical to Retinol (nutritionally and molecularly), Bakuchiol has proven to be a worthy competitor, whether used on its own or to potentiate Retinols performance when combined. The hype is certainly justified.
(1) Br J Dermatol. 2018 Jun 27. doi: 10.1111/bjd.16918. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoaging. (2) Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014 Jun;36(3):221-30. doi: 10.1111/ ics.12117. Epub 2014 Mar 6. Bakuchiol: a retinol-like functional compound revealed by gene expression profiling and clinically proven to have anti-aging effects. (3) RK Chaudhuri & F Marchio, Bakuchiol in the management of acne-affected skin, Cosm & Toil, 126:502-510, 2011 (4) Oncotarget. 2016 Mar 22; 7(12): 14616–14627. Bakuchiol suppresses proliferation of skin cancer cells by directly targeting Hck, Blk, and p38 MAP kinase
Daniel Clary is a licensed esthetician, passionate entrepreneur and 13-year spa industry veteran. He has spent his career studying cosmetic chemistry, skin function, botanical medicine and holistic nutrition. He is currently the national educator for an innovative holistic skin care company.
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HOW TO PAIR YOUR EQUIPMENT FOR THE ULTIMATE FACIAL! Using your esty toolkit for the best results possible! by Andrea Gregaydis
There are so many skin care treatments, procedures and equipment out on the market today, it can often be overwhelming to figure out what and when and even how to use each. Sometimes “we� as estheticians stick with staying within our own comfort zone, or if you are new to the industry you may not understand how to utilize or even upsell treatments to your client. A lot of questions I hear from estheticians is how to use all the features on their multifunction machines. Some multifunction units offer as many as 14 features in one.Some estheticians choose to have separate pieces of equipment in their spa or treatment room. However you decide to go being able to understand what you are using, why you are using it and how you can combine multiple treatments in one are key to providing your clients the ultimate facial experience!
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skin How to Pair Your Equipment for the Ultimate Facial!
The easiest way to start is by understanding the benefits of each procedure or treatment. As an instructor at an esthetics school, our students are taught the basics and are introduced to chemical peels. They are so excited when they learn that they can combine them together or even throw in some LED or microcurrent and their minds are blown! So let's start with the theory behind some of our favorite treatments and see where you can begin to combine and create some skin care magic within your own treatment rooms! Chemical peels are usually a favorite amongst clients looking to improve upon skin tone, texture, fine lines and wrinkles. This a great treatment to brighten the client's skin before an event or special occasion. Chemical peels utilize various acids to dissolve the bonds, like desmosomes and intercellular lipids. When we weaken or denature these bonds, the corneocytes are released and we speed up cell turnover. We are chemically creating exfoliation of the skin from the inside. Microdermabrasion or even dermaplan18
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ing are mechanical versions of exfoliation. With microdermabrasion, each treatment removes roughly 30%-60% of the Stratum Corneum. This process stimulates new cell growth by inflicting damage on surface skin. This will allow for 100% product penetration! Another great form of exfoliation is an enzyme treatment. Enzymes are what’s called proteolytic, which means protein dissolving. If you mechanically exfoliate the skin from the outside with microdermabrasion or dermaplaning to create cell turnover, follow with an enzyme to dissolve the dead surface skin, then add on a chemical peel chosen for your client's needs. You can give your client the ultimate exfoliation treatment, leaving their skin glowing and refreshed. We can even take this exfoliating facial up a notch by simply adding in LED or even galvanic current. LED light therapy converts electrical energy into light energy. The light energy in the form of photons are then absorbed by chromophores in the body’s cells to increase cellular energy or ATP. When we excite the cells by increasing their
energy, the cells are able to perform more efficiently. Cell proliferation, tissue oxygenation, cellular metabolism are all in full effect after a treatment. So when we inflict some superficial damage on the skin via exfoliation, we can speed up the healing process and skin's repair with LED. Choosing which form of LED will be based off of what you are trying to accomplish within your peel facial. Red, amber and infrared lights in an LED target healing and anti-aging,. They will specifically help build proteins and other growth factors within the skin. Red and amber lights help build up collagen and elastin. They will also help reduce inflammation and increase circulation. Blue light LED has been helpful in destroying P.acnes bacteria. Galvanic current is a direct electrical current that is used for phoresis, or introducing water soluble solutions into the skin. This creates two different reactions on the skin: desincrustation or iontophoresis. Utilizing iontophoresis, specifically cataphoresis, we are able to penetrate ions of an acidic solution deeper into the layers of the skin. We can utilize this after removal of a chemical peel, microdermabrasion, or dermaplane, after we apply serums such as vitamin C or hyaluronic acidthis will help calm, soothe, tighten and decrease blood circulation. Be sure to check for any contraindications prior to any treatment. Both LED or galvanic current can be added in at the end of the micro-peel treatment over any serums you choose to apply prior to SPF. Micro-current has been all over the news lately as an amazing service to offer to our clients. This treatment is a wonderful and easy stand alone treatment that can have so many different benefits. This is by no means a new procedure, but it is now easy for estheticians to offer this great service with new technology and smaller, more portable devices that save a lot of space in our treatment rooms. It’s no surprise that our bodies produce electric current. Micro-Current in fact,
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skin How to Pair Your Equipment for the Ultimate Facial! mimics our body’s own bio-electric current. So when used on the face and on the muscles it helps to stimulate cellular energy known as ATP. Microcurrent can also help to stimulate the production of amino acids, collagen, and elastin. It basically is exciting our cells and helping them to work more effectively. It is a very comfortable treatment, and as part of any anti-aging facial has amazing and cumulative results. Its also been shown to help with acne and even lymph drainage, because of its stimulating and healing benefits. This is just the start of so many options and opportunities we have to bring to our clients treatment after treatment. It can be overwhelming especially to new estheticians to feel comfortable with new techniques in our treatment rooms, and using your equipment on clients, let alone how it all works together to treat the skin. Take a chance and step out of your comfort
zone. If you are a seasoned esthetician you may be hesitant to change up your routine or even add on new techniques for fear your clients may not want to pay for or try something new. Start off slow when introducing new concepts or add ons, just like we do with their home care routine , so we know what works! If you try new combinations or “cocktails” on friends, family, or your loyal clients first and they agree to let your document their journey, you will have before and after pictures to show clients who are on the fence about trying something new. No matter what you decide, always do a thorough consultation, especially when introducing electrical equipment. Educate yourself or take some continuing education classes on anything you choose to bring into to your salon and spa. Grab some friends and family to practice on until you get used to whatever it is you are working with. We are
lucky to work in an ever changing and growing industry, we just can’t forget to change and grow with it! And as always, have fun, and bring your excitement with you to each of your treatments. Clients will be more willing to try anything, if you believe in and bring the excitement with you in your treatment room!
Andrea Gregaydis is a Licensed Esthetician and International CIDESCO Diplomat. She holds additional licenses as a NYS Instructor and Nail Technician. Andrea is the Lead Instructor at the Aesthetic Science Institute and has over ten years of experience as a practitioner, team coordinator and role model for hundreds of future skin care professionals.
Marine Agency has proudly specialized in day spa insurance since 1975. We're a recognized leader in beauty, electrology, and day spa insurance coverage. Our experience allows us to understand the unique challenges in running your day spa business as well as an understanding of all the different skincare and bodywork services you provide.
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Skin
1
NEWS 2
Blueberry Milk Moisturizer from Sorella Apothecary
Ease the appearance of fine lines and fatigue with powerful antioxidants. Aloe, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C repair the skin leaving it revitalized while fresh blueberries work as a natural astringent and tighten the skin.
sorellaapothecary.com
Advanced Microneedling Serums from ITPharma The most advanced range of micro-needling serums containing biomimetic peptides,
growth factors and active ingredients for targeted facial & body treatments.
itpharmalab.us
3
Sothys Detox Energie Essence This formula works like a barrier against pollution. Its innovative dropper bottle provides just the right amount of protection, every day while enveloping the skin in an ultra-comfortable hydrating veil.
Sothys-usa.com
4
Merry Laz DermaSerum: Vital C Nourish skin and brighten dark spots with natural antioxidants for more even skin tone and texture
Merrylaz.com
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RISE
# Phillycongress20
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PHILADELPHIA, PA March 29 & 30, 2020 Pennsylvania Convention Center
The only all-inclusive educational experience for skin care and spa professionals. Two-day ticket includes premier exhibit hall access with live Main Stage, Advanced Conferences, and Workshops.
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Vida Mia
Healing Center and Spa Costa Rica
A farm to spa experience
SPA OF THE MONTH
by Cristina Beecham
The Retreat Costa Rica recently opened their new world class healing center and spa. Vida Mia Healing Center and Spa is a brand new addition to the luxury wellness resort in Costa Rica. With over 700 square meters and three stories of thoughtfully designed and very spacious treatment rooms, the new center also presents, an Organic Tea and Wine Bar, Vegetarian CafĂŠ, warm quiet pool, fitness center, and beautiful lounges with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean.
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spa Spa Of The Month
The emphasis of this healing center lies in the metaphysical powers of the crystal quartz mountain in which it is perched. The extensive spa menu is based on all healing modalities found in nature. From Crystal infused therapies, Volcanic clay baths, forest bathing, farm to spa rituals to modern aesthetic treatments, there is so much to experience at Vida Mia. The Authentic Ayurvedic center has one of the most experienced healers from India to diagnose and prescribe a lifestyle of balance and wellness. In addition to this elaborate new spa, is an herbal apothecary where one may watch and learn as the healers and therapists hand muddle the herbal remedies and tinctures used in each treatment.
the building to optimize, health, wealth, charisma, love, sex, and luck. Its facilities include The Gratitude Lounge, a resting place with big lush couches to enjoy resting and reading or sipping tea; The Gratitude Lounge CafĂŠ and Tea bar, a robust offering of snacks and light lunches; The Meditation Deck, a wonderful place to reflect, chant, pray and be with nature; and The Quiet Pool, for sunbathing and enjoying the stunning views of the Pacific Ocean. All treatment rooms are named for indigenous healing crystals on the upper level and have open air, or large windowed rooms to connect the guests with the natural surroundings, to bring the outside into their treatments and to connect them to the healing elements.
HEALING CENTER AND SPA
BAI is the Vichy treatment room with tiered Costa Rican marble slabs with water jets to massage and clear the body energy with our crystal infused waters.
The recently opened Healing Center and Spa is next to the main resort and offers the same breathtaking views. Vida Mia was carefully designed with ancient Feng Shui principles balancing energies throughout the construction of 26
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NEVE is the multipurpose treatment room with outdoor glass shower for
wraps, scrubs, massages, and therapeutic oil treatments. AMARAJA is a spacious and luxurious massage room with outdoor balcony facing the Pacific Ocean where one can reminisce in the extensive view while receiving a vast array of healing treatments. RATANA is a spacious and luxurious massage room with outdoor balcony facing also facing the Pacific Ocean. MINA is a precious gem of a facial room, cozy and quaint with a view of the feng shui river and lush foliage. ALLIRA an expansive and inspiring Couples Suite with king size hanging bed, private outdoor shower for two, a double Hydrotherapy and Chromotherapy bath along with sitting tea lounge. The view is ever present with the 25-foot wall size window that opens to the fresh air for a romantic getaway of connecting and healing.
spa Spa Of The Month and rejuvenate the skin. Next, a moringa and green tea mask is applied. Moringa has the anti-aging qualities of Zeatin and green tea is loaded with antioxidants to help fight the signs of aging. A garden fresh aloe plant moisturizer is then applied. The Superfood Glow is naturally decongesting and anti-inflammatory. Skin is calm and rebalanced, encouraging a consistent and clear complexion. With each superfood layer, the therapist moves the lymphatic system, massaging and relaxing all parts of the face, neck, and décolleté as well as exfoliating and gently massaging your hands with trigger point release for facial muscles. Vida Mia Healing Center and Spa Barrio Jesus de Atenas Alajuela Province, Atenas Costa Rica 1-844-307-3682 x402 info@theretreatcostarica.com
AYURVEDA a room dedicated to our herbalists and medical advisors, Functional Nutritionists and Ayurvedic Doctor to diagnose, prescribe and heal imbalances. The Vida Mia Healing Center and Spa also features a Heated Volcanic Clay Bath, deep in the forest surrounded by lush greens to heal and nergize all the mind body systems.
ORGANIC FRESH FACIALS The Vida Mia Spa features “Farm to Spa” organic therapies designed with the philosophy that food is medicine. Each treatment is hand crafted to bring an exclusive experience that will nurture, relax, detox, enhance your beauty and incorporate natural healing. The Tropical Fruit Smoothie (60 minutes, $150) is a refreshing and clearing facial using fresh tropical fruits. The treatment begins with a delicious oat and banana smoothie cleanser to mois-
turize and tighten the skin, bananas are nature’s Botox and can slow signs of aging. Followed by a fresh pineapple toner and papaya and chia enzyme mask to exfoliate dead skin cells. And finally, goat milk yogurt and honey mask to moisturize and seal the nourishment into the skin. A delicious garden fresh aloe plant moisturizer is then applied. With each layer of delicious skin food, the therapist moves the lymphatic system massaging and relaxing all parts of the face, neck, and décolleté as well as exfoliating and gently massaging your hands with trigger point release for facial muscles. For more exfoliation, the Radiant Sunshine (60 minutes, $150) gives skin a radiant glow with superfood microdermabrasion. The treatment begins with a fresh avocado, lemon, and oatmeal scrub to exfoliate, cleanse and soothe the skin, followed by a cucumber toner, and then a tomato and chia seed mask to eliminate dead skin cells.
Rundown Opening: August 2019 Founder: Diana Stobo Facilities: Seven treatment rooms; quiet pool; jacuzzi; steam room; relaxing tea lounge Treatments: massage; facials; body treatments; energy rituals; mineral influsion; crystal healing; Ayurveda; couples therapies
Cristina Beecham is the Managing Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa. She is also a licensed esthetician with an intense passion for the skin care industry. Cristina is your source for inspiration in progressing the gift that estheticians give their clients. Please connect with her at mcristina@lneonline.com
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Spa
NEWS Saian Esty Fridge Saian Esty Fridge allows you to change from warm to cold with the flip of a switch. Perfect for keeping gua sha tools and jade rollers warm, and keeping beauty globes cold. Maintains ampoules and serums at cold temperatures.
saian.net
Le Mieux Pomegranate Massage Cream Light, luxurious massage cream features an age-defying, antioxidant blend of 4 botanical oils and 13 botanical extracts to leave skin soft, supple, and revitalized. Perfect for dry and sun-damaged skin.
lemieuxcosmetics.com
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The nuts n’ bolts of your lash care routine.
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Use GrandeLASH-MD lash enhancing serum on your upper lash line like a liquid eyeliner daily to promote longer & thicker looking lashes.
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ANTI-CELLULITE • Eminence Organic Skin Care • Stone Crop Contouring Body Cream
ACNE TREATMENT • Viktoria DeAnn Peptide Cosmeceuticals • PEPTI-acne
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BRIGHTENING TREATMENT • AnteAGE • Microchanneling Solution - Brightening
BROW • RapidLash • RapidBrow Eyebrow Enhancing Serum
CBD • Hempfield Botanicals • Fortify Face Oil
CLEANSER • Saian • Strawberry Cleanser
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EYE TREATMENT • Yum Skincare • Hibiscus Cell-Lift Eye Serum Manufactured by Vitelle Lab Private Label
FACIAL MASK • Circadia • Australian Super-Berry Antioxidant Mask
FACIAL EXFOLIANT • Skin Script Skin Care • 15% Pumpkin-Orange Enzyme
EQUIPMENT FOR THE FACE • DiamondTome - Altair Instruments • DT2 Skin Resurfacing System
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LASH CONDITIONER • HAWRYCH MD • Eyelash Enhancer
LIGHT THERAPY • BioPhotas • Celluma PRO
FACIAL OIL • Farmhouse Fresh • Pretty Amped Dual-Phase Oil
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INNOVATIVE • The Mella • The Mella
B E ST A C N E T R E AT M E N T Viktoria D É Ann Peptide Cosmeceuticals PEPTI-a.c.n.e uses a blend of amino complexes to create and maintain a healthier skin barrier, allowing the skin’s natural defense mechanisms to combat blemish-prone conditions. This pharmaceutical grade product gives licensed dermatologists and estheticians a new innovative solution to create ultimate clinical results.
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MAKEUP • Grafton Cosmetics • Private Label
PEEL • Le Mieux • Perfect Renewal
STEM CELL • Eminence Organic Skin Care • Bamboo Firming Fluid
PEPTIDES • DermAware Bio-Targeted Skin Care • Wrinkle Release Serum Neuropeptide MAX 36
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✓cGMP Facility LNEonline.com
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RETINOL • G.M. COLLIN • Retinol Advanced+ Night Cream
SUNLESS GLOW • Infinity Sun • Glow on the Go
SUN PROTECTION • KeKo Organics • Organic Ko'a Sun Barrier SPF 30
NECK & DECOLLETE • SilcSkin • SilcSkin Decollette Pad
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Wellness for Med Spas Shifting focus in clinical settings by Sherrie Tennessee
Spas were first designed to aid in healing with specific treatments. As we move into a new decade, we are seeing the evolution of Med Spas. The spa sector has continued to change to meet the demands of consumers. The relaxing and inviting environment of spas are the foundation of wellness centers and a new goal of Med Spa locations. Clients are constantly seeking new experiences, thus the incorporation of holistic and wellness services into med spa locations. Medical spas (medi spas or medspas) — were typically defined as a spa-like facility that offers elective, often appearance-improving, procedures under the care and direction of a trained physician and a team of nurses and estheticians. The service offerings of a med spa continue to evolve, especially with the inclusion of wellness and alternative treatments to assist in addressing and healing all of the needs of clients. Med spas now consider the physical, mental and even spiritual aspects of patients visiting the locations.
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business Wellness for Med Spas
the Club House in New York and GC in Baltimore, the trend is only growing.
AGE MANAGEMENT MEDICAL SPAS Age management services that combine bioidentical hormone therapy with diet, nutrition, fitness, exercise, health, and well-being. Patients can spend thousands of dollars each year for a physician to supervise their age management regimen while undergoing an annual or semi-annual battery of hormonal, blood, dietary, nutrition, and physiological assessments. With all cohorts, except Gen Z striving to remain youthful, this trend is expected to grow over the next few years as well.
WELLNESS TOURISM MEDICAL SPAS
According to the American Med Spa Association (AmSpa), the total number of Medical Spas in the US has reached 5,431 about 8.3% of the market. The average revenue for Medical Spa locations was $1.5M; with a 29% profit margin much higher than that of day spa which is around 10%. With an average spend of $465 in med spas compared with $91 in traditional spa locations. In addition, 65% of clients are repeat users of med spa services. The Swiss School of Tourism and Hospitality (SSTH) has projected the global medical spa market to grow at an annual rate of 12.2% between 2018 and 2025, reaching a total of US$27.6 billion. Which would explain why mainstream companies such as Bliss, known for fun services and products entered the med spa sector. The collaboration with Ideal Image (both companies are owned by Steiner) and three of the NYC based Bliss spas have expanded the service offering to include injectables, face tightening, and body sculpt42
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ing. All of which meet the demand for minimally invasive procedures that are results-focused - the facial treatment segment accounted for one-third of revenue. While body shaping segment accounted for one-fifth of market revenue generated at med spa locations.
Trends in Med Spas MEN FOCUSED SERVICES Millennial men are changing the demographics of the med spa landscape. With a focus on looking good from every angle, millennials men have surpassed their Gen X and Baby Boomer counterparts and account for 20% of patients. A 2018 survey from the American Med Spa Association, found men outspent women by 13 percent in the Med Spa sector, and the number is expected to grow another 10% in the next decade. The demand from men has led to “brotox” parties where the clients can feel more comfortable in the setting. With locations such as
With Wellness being one of the biggest trends over the past few years, Med Spa's locations are seeking ways to incorporate holistic services into the menu offering. According to the Global Wellness Institute, Wellness tourism is “the powerful intersection of two large and growing industries: the $2.6 trillion tourism industry and the $4.2 trillion wellness industry.” Holistic health and prevention are increasingly at the center of consumer decision-making, and people now expect to continue their healthy lifestyles and wellness routines when they are away from home. As a result of Wellness Tourism, the concept of east meet west has evolved into the Wellness Med Spas. The inclusion of - meditation, and non-invasive procedures. massages, facials, scrubs, wraps, oils, herbs and other therapies designed to reduce recovery time and issues, relieve stress, improve blood circulation, accelerate lymphatic drainage, provide nourishment to hair and the scalp, and help balance and ease the mind and body. Also, traditional Med spas are incorporating complementary and alternative treatments such as acupuncture,
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business Wellness for Med Spas integrative nutrition, life coaching, energy combing specialty services such as Reiki to the medical aspect liposuction, with weight management and fitness. There are new trends such as cryofacials which offer a results-focus, noninvasive treatment. B re n d a C u m m i n g s w h o i s a Registered Nurse, has been in Medi Spas and Wellness Spas for over 18 years as a medical esthetician in Colorado. Brenda has seen a transition of clients and expectations, first hand. Brenda noted, “today, clients want onestop shopping that offers wellness and results-oriented treatments.” Younger clients want “customize treatments that are less invasive, resulting in less downtime and more complete experience with a focus on full-body health,” says Cummings. It would seem Millennials fully understand the concept of preventative maintenance and are utilizing it fully. Also, the improvement in injections making them more effective and longer-lasting than topical treatments,
has led IV treatment options to expand beyond traditional vitamin regimens such as B-12 shots. Now, clients are seeking IV treatments for hydration, and even injections to enhance the look and growth of hair. Cummings stated: “both men and women are seeking hormonal options to boost vitality and performance.” In addition, fitness, nutritional, and lifestyle offerings add to the concept of wellness, for both the mental and physical aspects of clients. The mindset has moved beyond simply looking good. The ultimate goal is to achieve “wellness inside and out” – which the combination of Wellness and Med Spa locations can assist clients in obtaining. The revenue generated in the Med Spa sector has many in Wellness and Day Spa making the transition over to this sector. Rejuvenate Med Spa in Oak Brook, Illinois, is co-owned by Christina Imes, who formerly owned a Yoga and Wellness clinic before launching the location. Another loca-
tion leading the trend the of Wellness and Med spa is Rejuvenation Wellness & Medispa in Natchitoches, LA. Their spa menu boasts a wide array of services from injectables (including Botox®, Juvederm®, Kybella®, and Restylan) to Cryoskin, Sclerotherapy and Dermaplaning to non-traditional services. The Mental Treatment menu includes guided meditation and Biofeedback. While the Spa Treatment offerings are very Eastern-inspired with Trigger Point, Myofascial Release and my favorite Cupping therapy; all of which are offered in one location. The Med Spa of Virginia in central VA has combined a traditional day spa, salon, and med spa under one roof to offer with Hungarian Mud Wrap, Brazilian Blowout, Dermatude and yoga, among a few of the experiences.
FUTURE TRENDS The options appear limitless for specialty spas which may include international medical spas, resort-based medical spas, cosmetic surgical spas, and others. With the boom in both medical and wellness tourism, especially in the US, it is very likely that destination health care institutions will be providing spa services to incoming foreign patients in order to combine their experience of a positive clinical combine with a caring and hospitable, spa-like setting. There was a thought that the spa industry would diverge in two different directions, that Wellness or Medical. It seems those two roads have merged into one to create a holistic treatment of clients seeking to move from Wellness to Wellbeing.
Sherrie Tennessee is the Education Director of SpaSOS, where she conducts Spa Management, Wellness, CBD and Customer Service focused training. Sherrie is a licensed massage therapist, nail tech, spa owner, speaker, professor, educator, and author. She is currently completing a Ph.D. and holds a Master of Business Administration with a concentration in marketing and entrepreneurship. 44
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Business
NEWS Facialist Adeela Crown and Celluma Internationally recognized facialist Adeela Crown travels regularly around the globe for her work on clients. Adeela is now featuring Celluma Light Therapy in her signature facial, No Derma Drama™.
celluma.com
Glow and Go with Repechange Repêchage® is committed to developing and manufacturing high-quality seaweed skin care products and treatments designed to enhance the appearance of the skin. This month, they are providing online training in Lydia Sarfati’s methods: Powered By Massage: Glow and Go Anti-Aging Facial Treatments.
edu.repechage.com
Hempfield Botanicals Wins Business of the Year Make Scents Natural Spa Line & Hempfield Botanicals win 2019 Emerging Business of the Year from the Central Penn Business Journal!
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Lash in Style Treat yourself to a curated lash shirt each month from Dear Lash Love! Lash in Style for just $19/month!
lashloveapparel.com
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esty2esty
ON INSTAGRAM
See what the @estheticianedit duo has been up to this month! Well here we are! Kicking off trade show season! Are you joining us for The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa in Philadelphia next month on March 29th and 30th at the Pennsylvania Convention Center? Pre-registration is open
• Ready for the crowds at ICES
Philly?! Bring your shopping bags!
• Don’t miss this year’s headliners, including Nerida Joy and Joanna Vargas!
• Throwback to getting our fav treatment with BelleCote on the show floor!
• Rescue Spa Lead Esty, Joanna Kula, enjoying an in-show treatment at ICES Philly last year!
Follow Follow the Esthetician Edit duo as we take on this year’s ICES shows! Catch us at the Speaker Lounge for product giveaways and photo ops with our speakers!
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now on LNEonline.com! We're so excited to mingle with you all. And don't miss your #esty2esty tour in Philly this year before the show! We're prepping lots of fun Insta content for all you estys to follow along and get #pumpedup before the show! Who are you most excited to see this year?!
Are you a #girlboss esthetician? Esthetician Edit is a community just for you! Connect with the latest generation of skin care powerhouses by following our #esty2esty chronicles! Every month, we sit down with estheticians who are making a name for themselves! Message @estheticianedit on Instagram to be featured!
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Injectables guide Navigating the world of facial fillers
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Facial fillers have grown in popularity over the last several years, and with their increasing availability and widespread social media promotion, there’s no sign that their popularity will lessen any time soon. As estheticians, it’s essential to stay educated on all the treatments your clients are doing, from cosmetic surgery, to facial filler enhancement. With little to no downtime, fillers are often a quick fix and can be injected in less than an hour. For the most part, side effects are minor, though allergic reaction is possible. Generally, clients can expect mild bruising, swelling, or redness where the filler was injected— all temporary side effects.
TYPES of
FILLERS Your Guide to Your Client's Facial Fillers by Aurora Solis
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Injectables Guide
Clients often see their esty as a source of unlimited knowledge, so don’t be surprised when clients start asking you about different types of filler and your personal opinion on fillers as a whole. This is why being educated is so important. Here’s a general overview to stay educated….
area. They can, however, be used along with fillers. Generally speaking, wrinkle relaxers help prevent worsening of wrinkles, and filler are a solution for filling deep lines and wrinkles that are too far progressed.
How to Choose the Right Filler
What it can do: Juvéderm is a series of fillers, and different forms are designed to be used in different areas of the face. Juvéderm Voluma XC is used to add volume and contours to the cheeks, which naturally hollow over time. It also smoothes moderate-to-deep smile lines around the nose and mouth (aka the nasolabial folds) and the lines that run from the corners of your mouth toward the chin, aka marionette lines. Juvéderm Ultra XC is used to fill the lips, as is Juvéderm Volbella XC, which is also used to soften lip lines. Most hyaluronic acid fillers are infused with the anesthetic lidocaine to minimize pain during and after treatment.
There are many facial injectables on the market. Helping your client find the right one depends on their budget, their doctor’s experience and preference, and their individual facial and skin needs. What are their goals? Are they looking to smooth, plump, freeze, prevent? No two filler clients are the same - everyone needs something different. If your client is considering getting fillers, remind them of these simple facts: Don't confuse dermal fillers with other injectables like Botox, Dysport, or Xeomin, which are wrinkle relaxers. Though they are injected just like fillers, these work differently by temporarily paralyzing muscles that cause crow's feet, forehead furrows, and the "eleven" lines between the eyebrows. They don't fill, plump, or enhance an 50
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Juvéderm
How it works: The star ingredient in Juvéderm is hyaluronic acid (HA), a naturally occurring sugar found in the body that gives
the skin moisture, volume, and elasticity. As HA depletes with age, the skin loses volume and wrinkles form more prominently. When injected, HA acts like a sponge to attract water into the skin. As a result, it plumps up the area in which it was injected. In addition to instantly smoothing the skin, research from 2007 shows hyaluronic acid injections can boost the skin’s own collagen. That means fewer touch-ups may be needed, and that when it's time for a touch-up, less of the filler will be necessary (so follow up treatments should be cheaper). One advantage of HAbased fillers over earlier options is that because HA is found naturally in the body, there's no risk of allergic reaction. How long it lasts: Depending on the exact type of filler (some are thinner and more viscous, others thicker so they can potentially last longer), the effects of Juvéderm can last anywhere from six to 18 months before the body naturally absorbs the filler. If you're wondering what happens if you don't love your result, fear not: Fillers that contain HA can be partially or completely dissolved with hyaluronidase, an enzyme that breaks down HA. Price: On average, a syringe of Juvéderm costs around $682 per syringe.
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Injectables Guide
Restylane What it can do: Like JuvÊderm, Restylane is a family of fillers that are designed to treat different problem areas on the face. The original Restylane formula is used to smooth away wrinkles and folds and can be used to add volume to the lips. Restylane Lyft (formerly Perlane-L), a thicker gel consistency and is used to correct severe wrinkles and folds like the nasolabial folds, as well as give some volume back to the cheeks. It is also FDA approved to add fullness to the backs of the hands, a place where we often show signs of aging. Finally, Restylane Silk is designed to enhance the lips, as it is made with smaller particles than the other Restylane products. How it works: Restylane also relies on the ingredient power of hyaluronic acid for its smoothing ability. Injections may also stimulate the body’s own natural collagen production, so fewer touch-ups may be needed and less filler may be necessary when they are. How long it lasts: Studies have shown that with "full treatment," which includes one repeat injection, results with Restylane can last anywhere up to 18 months. Results in
the cheeks can last up to a year and up to six months in wrinkles and folds with Restylane Lyft. Restylane Silk results in the lips last up to six months
How long it lasts: Recent studies have shown that the effects of Sculptra can last up to two years after the first treatment session with an average of three injections.
Price: On average, a syringe of a hyaluronic acid-based filler can cost around $682 per syringe.
Price: On average, the cost of a syringe of Sculptra is $903 per syringe.
Sculptra
Radiesse
What it can do: Did you know that Sculptra was first used in patients with human immunodeficiency virus (HIV) who had lost a large amount of facial fat? Today, it is more commonly used in cosmetics to give volume and build up cheeks, fill in hollow or sunken areas of the face, and increase skin thickness to diminish the appearance of folds and lines. It is not injected into the lips or used around the eyes.
What it can do: Radiesse is used to treat moderateto-severe facial creases, such as the nasolabial folds. It also can be used to plump up cheeks and other facial contours. It is not used on the lips. Sorry, Kylie!
How it works: The main ingredient in Sculptra is polyL-lactic acid (PLLA), a synthetic compound that encourages the formation of new collagen cells. For this reason, it can take several treatments, about four to six weeks apart, for results to become obvious. The number of treatments a client needs will depend on the extent of the results you are looking for.
How it works: Radiesse contains microspheres of calcium hydroxylapatite, a type of mineral that's found in human teeth and bones. When used in a filler, the calcium particles are tiny and suspended in a thick gel-like solution. While Radiesse immediately replenishes lost volume, over time the gel is absorbed and the body metabolizes the calcium, leaving behind your own collagen. How long it lasts: Radiesse can last up to a year or more. However, because calcium hydroxylapatite stimulates natural collagen production, fewer touch-ups (and less filler) may be needed to keep the result. Price: On average, Radiesse can cost around $662 per syringe.
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COMBO
TREATMENTS Pairing Injectables with facial therapy for the best results by Aurora Solis
Clients often seek fillers and injectables like Botox because of their quick results. Oftentimes, a series of peels to lessen the depth of wrinkles can take several months or years to see results. However, a little filler can plump up a wrinkle on the spot, or prevent a wrinkle from forming in the first place. For example, Botox is quick and easily tolerated - the definition of a lunchtime treatment.
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Injectables Guide
Botox works at the level of the muscle... 3. To prolong results: On particularly animated areas of the face (such as around the mouth), the hyaluronic acid in a cosmetic filler generally breaks down quicker, as a result of the increased movement. By relaxing the area first with Botox, filler results can be maximized.
COMBINING BOTOX WITH BASIC FACIALS
As estheticians, it is our job to support our clients’ decision with the best possible facial care to help make their injectables lash, and compliment their anti-aging results. Clients will often ask: Is combining Botox with other facial treatments a good idea? The short answer is: it depends. Here are some tried and true combination treatments utilizing botox, fillers and facial treatments to achieve the best results:
COMBINING BOTOX WITH FILLERS Clients ask most often for guidance about combining Botox with a cosmetic filler like Juvederm, Kybella or Restylane. Like Botox, dermal fillers are considered a quick treatment with little downtime. As a result, you can consider 56
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these two treatments during a single visit. Here’s some general guidance about when they might complement one another:
1. For different types of wrinkles: Botox and other cosmetic injectables, like Dysport, Xeomin or Jeaveau, are typically used on expression lines, whereas dermal fillers work on static lines. As a result, they may be used together to treat different stages of aging on the face.
2. For different treatment areas: Generally speaking, Botox is indicated for areas around the eyes and forehead. On the other hand, dermal fillers have broad application for the middle and lower areas of the face.
It’s best to wait a minimum of 24 hours after Botox injections to have facials. By waiting, you give the Botox injection site a chance to heal. Additionally, because you’re in a horizontal position during a facial, there’s a risk of Botox drifting for up to four hours after treatment. That said, it is best to suggest a facial before Botox on the same day. A facial works to clean and refresh the skin at the superficial level of the face. Then, the face is prepared for Botox, which smoothes wrinkles and fine lines underneath the skin.
COMBINING BOTOX WITH CHEMICAL PEELS It’s possible to schedule chemical peels before Botox — not the other way around. However, we would only make this recommendation on a caseby-case basis. Generally speaking, a lighter facial peel on the same day can be considered. That’s because a chemical peel works at a superficial level to treat skin imperfections and even out
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Injectables Guide
skin texture and tone. On the other hand, Botox works at the level of the muscle. In terms of a deeper peel, it should be scheduled several days after Botox treatment to minimize the risk of skin irritation.
COMBINING MICRODERMABRASION WITH BOTOX
GENERAL GUIDELINES
The recommendation for microdermabrasion and Botox is similar to a Chemical Peel and Botox. While it’s possible, it’s necessary to assess each client’s skin first before recommending the two treatments together.
How long to wait after Injections before getting other Facial Treatments including Lasers, IPL, DOT Therapy and Hair Removal:
COMBINING MICRONEEDLING WITH BOTOX
• Enzyme Peels – wait two weeks
Microneedling and Botox are not treatments that may be performed on the same area on the same day.
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Recommend scheduling these treatments at least a few weeks apart. Additionally, it’s important to note that the time between treatments is more important than the order of treatment. Basically, it’s up to you whether to schedule Micro needling or Botox first for your client.
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• Facials – wait two weeks
• Deep Chemical Peels – wait four weeks • Facial waxing – wait two to four weeks • Laser Hair Removal for face – wait two to four weeks • Fraxel Laser treatments – wait four weeks • Dot Therapy Laser Treatments – wait four weeks • Liquid Nitrogen (dry ice) – wait four weeks • DermaPen Microneedling – wait four weeks
• Laser Genesis – wait two weeks • Glycolic or AHA peels – wait two weeks
• Healite II – wait one week (note this may vary depending on what you have injected and where)
CLARITY # Dallascongress20
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WIDENING THE LENS OF CLEAN BEAUTY Defining clean beauty in your life by Ashley Sachs
I often get asked for “natural� beauty product recommendations from clients wanting to be more conscious of what they are putting on their skin. I like to take these opportunities to encourage a full-spectrum perspective on healthy beauty by broadening the lens beyond just product selection but also how to implement a complete clean routine. The very definition of clean means to be free from dirt or unwanted matter. In the case of beauty, there is more unwanted matter than just toxic products contaminating our bodies and the environment. Wasted time, money and misleading information that makes up our current beauty-knowledge base and routines are equally as detrimental to our overall well being.
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organic & wellness Widening the Lens of Clean Beauty
Simple Skin Health The very first step in adopting a clean routine to promote healthy, beautiful skin is simple: prioritize our health. This is not groundbreaking information but it’s astonishing how many clients will complain about the dryness of their skin or the bags under their eyes and then admit to not drinking water or getting enough sleep. Drinking enough water, getting plenty of sleep, exercising regularly, eating healthily and adopting mindful practices to reduce stress and toxicity in our lives will do more for our skin and our overall well being than any of the fanciest treatments or expensive products combined. If we’re truly looking to clean up our beauty routine, adopting a healthy lifestyle is an imperative first step.
Clean Professional Treatments Once our health is under control and is reflected in our skin, we can focus our attention on clean beauty treatments that will lift, tone and refine the skin. Adopting a healthier beauty regimen does not mean letting nature and/ or gravity take its course. There are amazing alternative methods for reversing and preventing undesirable skin conditions like wrinkling, sagging, porousness and coarseness. As mentioned above, one of the foundations of health is exercising, but we often always neglect to exercise our face. There are 57 muscles in the face and neck and over time, they begin to sag and there is no moisturizer or advanced “active” serum that will reverse it. Therefore, it is imperative to build and maintain our facial and neck muscles in order to support and lift the tissue and layers of skin blanketing them. The most advanced face-toning and tightening professional modality is Microcurrent. These miracle machines create results that satisfy the “instantlygratifying” demand for younger looking skin in addition to falling perfectly in line with the category of healthy/ 64
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clean beauty. Microcurrent is safe, noninvasive and doubles as a health treatment by delivering fresh, vital oxygen and nutrients to the skin and revitalizing tissue. In fact Microcurrent was developed to treat patients with facial paralysis due to stroke and Bell’s palsy.
Clean Routine at Home To maintain facial muscles at home (preferably in between microcurrent treatments) I recommend creating a consistent gua-sha and face exercise practice. A gua-sha is a tool used in chinese medicine (predating acupuncture) used to move lymph (carrying away toxins including blackheads), stimulate chi (the Chinese word for life force energy), tone muscles and firm the skin. Practicing consistent face exercises (especially for specific areas of concern) will not only create a youthful, healthy appearance, and a clear, radiant complexion but will also promote a host of other health benefits like releasing toxins from the skin. It can even alleviate symptoms of TMJ disorder and Bell’s palsy.
Setting an Intention for Skin Care When looking for a clean skincare line, confirm the products you’re considering are clearly labeled with certifications
(i.e. organic, non-gmo, fair trade, leaping bunny seal, etc.) and ingredients. Also knowing where and how the ingredients are sourced is an important factor in guaranteeing clean ingredients and practices. As the green beauty industry continues to explode, there is no shortage of brands backed by integrity and transparency, so there is no need to settle. Next, clarify your intention for what it is you wish to gain by using a product. Traditional marketing campaigns mislead consumers by using models with perfect skin to invoke the illusion that we too will look like that if we use the products they are selling (keyword). Therefore, I encourage clients to use the same “feeling technique” when choosing a product line by setting an intention on how they want to feel when using a product. For example, say you feel your best when you’re by the sea. You might consider using a brand like Osea, a seaweed-based product line inspired by the creator’s grandmother who healed herself when she had a vision to start a daily swimming practice in the ocean. Perhaps you’re feeling like you need to detox and become more grounded and connected to nature. I would recommend Evan Healy, my daily go-to, whose entire philosophy of beauty is that the skin breathes and is promoted
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organic & wellness Widening the Lens of Clean Beauty by their line’s essential elements: water, oil and clay. When a client is feeling the dull, dry impact of winter and the idea of getting away to a tropical island re energizes them, I recommend the Hawaiian-based brand O’o. Using their products filled with superfood level antioxidants is like taking a trip to Hawaii for the skin and the senses. These brands are clean and effective proven by their appearance in some of the most luxurious spas around the world and are even adored and used by celebrities. More than just physically benefitting from the products themselves, using brands like these will also benefit us emotionally and/or spiritually knowing we are supporting family farms and small businesses, women-owned business, co-ops and fair trade overseas, sustainable sourcing and packaging and the list goes on. The vast wealth of information dispensed by these brands are missioned towards education and enlightenment. You can feel the love and positive energy radiating from the founders of
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these brands and the clear intention behind the creation of each product. This energy is transferable, meaning the very same energy that exists and is created in every step of a product's lifespan from earth to shelf is ultimately going on our skin and absorbed into our being so be confident that energy is aligned with your intentions.
A Wider Beauty Perspective If we prescribe to the above outlined clean routine, but do not factor in the effects of our external toxicity, we are still missing the boat when it comes to clean beauty. Pollution, EMF’s, blue and fluorescent lighting and stress from the world around us all have detrimental effects to our health and our skin and need to be considered. Clean Beauty is part of a bigger paradigm shift in our culture; people are prioritizing their health and are looking for professionals they can trust to guide them through the maze of information out there. By widening our scope of work as beauty professionals to include the health and environmental factors described herein, we are seiz-
ing an opportunity to become more valuable to our clients and thus more successful in our careers. As I continue to learn the health risks and benefits of products, treatments and services throughout our incredible industry and beyond, I feel inspired to share this knowledge and promote the evolution of a new beauty consciousness unleashing radiance through freedom, health, empowerment and environmental and societal impact. Ashley Sachs is a master networker, collaborating with healers, teachers, salons, spas and other health and wellness studios and practices. She uses her platform, Awakened Beauty to guide her community through writing and the promotion of personal development and healing by connecting client to practitioner and facilitating workshops, events and retreats. Her area of expertise is Beauty Consciousness and she infuses it into her private practice as a Licensed Esthetician and Reiki Practitioner located in Southeastern Chester County, PA. For more information visit www.awakenedbeauty.life or email Ashley at blendedbyashley@gmail.com
Organic & Wellness
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Roccoco Botanicals Herbal Blackhead Gel
Herbaceous Hemp Butter This butter features nourishing hemp seed oil, hydrating coconut oil, and rich cocoa butter along with aromatic sweet basil and rosemary essential oils to stimulate cell renewal and improve skin tone.
Diminish clogged pores and blackheads with Roccoco Botanicals’ Herbal Blackhead Gel for clearer skin and happy clients!
Hempfieldbotaniclas.com
Rococo.com
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Eminence Organic Skin Care Snow Mushroom & Reishi Masque Contour and tighten the appearance of skin with a de-puffing mask that reveals smooth radiance. Clay removes impurities while paracress extract reveals a firm and healthy complexion at any age.
eminenceorganics.com
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Eve TaylorÂŽ Rejuvenating Aromatic Serum No.6 The newest member of the Aromatic Serum family was created as the go-to serum for post-menopausal and ageing clients.
balneaspaproducts.com
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SULTRY EYE Your Step-by-Step Guide to the Smokey Eye by Cristina Beecham
Everybody wants a smokey eye. But nobody knows how to DO a smokey eye. It's the most popular, yet most elusive makeup look on the planet (just ahead of winged eyeliner). If you were hoping to nail the smudgy, sultry eye in time for your next big event, you're in luck. Here is our step-by-step guide to creating the perfect smokey eye without creating an inevitable mess of shadow and liner.
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image Sultry Eye
3 THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE STARTING YOUR SMOKEY EYE • The key is to always keep the darkest point at the lash line. It keeps the makeup really modern and fresh, and ensures you are drawing more attention to the eye vs. the makeup. • Keep it simple! Stick to no more than 3 shadows and a liner to pop your eyes. • Blend is your friend. Brushes are super important to get that blend. When it comes to a smokey eye, it doesn't matter how dark you go, or what colours you use, it's how well you can blend the liner and shadow up into skin tone. That's what gives it that sultry look.
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image Sultry Eye
HOW TO CREATE A CLASSIC SMOKEY EYE 1 Start by applying a mid-tone shadow all over the lid. Opt for greys, browns or heathers to create a subtle smokey base. 2 Apply a liner along the lash line, making sure you're coating and depositing colour between the lashes to instantly pop the eye. Opt for a gel formula for easy application that won't budge all night! 3 Layer a dark tone shadow like espresso, charcoal or smoke over the liner, blending halfway up the lid and into the lid shadow. Apply along the lower lash line by softly pressing the brush on to the root of the lower lashes. Then smudge out with fingers for a smokier finish. 4 Add those all-important final touches with a mascara, like Bobbi Brown’s Smokey Eye Mascara, layering 3-4 coats for a full lash effect. 5 Finally, layer a sparkle shadow with your finger to give it that real party finish. It's great for smoothing out the lid and giving that blend through the crease of the eye.
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SOUND TOO HARD? HERE’S AN EASY CHEAT… Sound too hard? Here’s an easy cheat… A long-wear cream shadow and a long-wear gel eyeliner blended together is a quick and simple way to create a smokey eye with minimal products. Simply apply the shadow all over the lid, blending it over and over towards the outer corner for the smokey effect. Then apply the gel eyeliner along the bottom lid and lash line, smudging it with a small eye brush.
Opt for a dark cream shadow for an intense smokey eye and a shimmer cream shadow for a softer finish.
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NEWS Bamboo Disposable Cosmetic Applicator Kit This kit was created with the professional makeup artist in mind and contains necessary disposable cosmetic applicators to maintain a hygienic environment for clients. The supplies lay nicely inside this 8.5 inch x 4.7 inch x 1.3 inch clear organizer. The lid seals with one clasp to keep items from spilling during travel. This kit includes: lip gloss, eye shadow and detail applicators, mascara wands, lip brushes and angled spatulas, all with eco-friendly bamboo handles! The polypropylene (plastic #5) is recyclable.
qosmedix.com
LASHBOMB for Your Lashing Needs! LASHBOMB'S eyelash extensions are made of synthetic mink, making them soft & true to curl. They are a must have for all lash Artist! The .03 Mega Volume lashes are light, fluffy and easy to work with. These lashes are slightly thinner than the industry standard, making them a great choice for creating lighter and safer fans for your clients’ lashes.
lashbomb.com
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65................. Advanced Esthetics / Adonyss........................................................................................... advance-esthetic.us 76................. Altair Instruments..............................................................................................................altairinstruments.com 5................... Celluma......................................................................................................................................biophotas.com 14.................Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc................................................................................................................dr-jeff.com 2,3................ Eminence Organic Skin Care.........................................................................................eminenceorganics.com 75................. Equipro USA............................................................................................................................ equipro-bty.com 7................... G.M. Collin Skin Care................................................................................................................... gmcollin.com 29................. Grande Cosmetics............................................................................................................... grandelashmd.com 39................. Hawrych MD Lash.............................................................................................................. hawrychmdlash.com 37.................Hempfield Botanicals....................................................................................................hempfielbotanicals.com 57................. Le Mieux - Bielle Cosmetics.............................................................................................. biellecosmetics.com 20................. Marine Agency.....................................................................................................................marineagency.com 43................. Merry Laz Aesthetics USA............................................................................................................. merrylaz.com 22, 23........... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Philadelphia............................................Philadelphia.skincareshows.com 60, 61........... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas................................................................Dallas.skincareshows.com 71................. Rejuvi Laboratory.......................................................................................................................... rejuvilab.com 59................. Repêchage.................................................................................................................................repechage.com 9................... Revitalash.....................................................................................................................................revitalash.com 13................. Skin Accents.............................................................................................................................skinaccents.com 19, 33........... Skin Script Skin Care................................................................................................................. skinscriptrx.com 15................. Sorella Apothecary......................................................................................................... sorellaapothecary.com 53................. Sothys USA................................................................................................................................ sothys-usa.com 35................. Viktoria Dé Ann.................................................................................................................... viktoriadeann.com 51................. Vitelle Labs.................................................................................................................................. vitellelab.com
*Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition has all publishing rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission by the publisher is prohibited. *Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition is protected through Trademark registration in the United States and in foreign countries where Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition circulates. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts. Articles appearing in this journal may not previously have been published elsewhere either inside or outside the United States of America. Exceptions to this rule will be made only by agreement in writing between the author and the editors. The editors reserve the right to edit letters and other submitted materials or omit letters that are considered outside the laws of libel, slander and good taste. Claims and other statements by written and/or advertisement do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Publisher/Editor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa’s Publisher/Editor assume no responsibility for any and all claims. Publisher is not responsible for any mailing delays beyond our control. *Direct all advertising rate inquiries to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa/American Edition, Advertising Department, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134.
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