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LNE & Spaâ€”the magazine for skin care and spa professionals December 2015

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A DV E RT I S E M E N T

ASK THE EXPERT:

Experience the New VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels by Éminence Q&A

Lisa Wensley LICENSED ESTHETICIAN

How does this product enhance the results from using the existing VitaSkin™ products?

What sets the VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels apart from other peels in the industry?

Using the Éminence VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels will

Éminence took the simplicity of an already existing,

accelerate the results you have achieved with the Firm,

custom designed VitaSkin™ solution and made it easy

Bright, Calm, and Clear VitaSkin™ solutions. Your

for the esthetician and consumer to categorize based

skin may have plateaued and need a bit more from the

on skin type. These Firm, Bright, Calm, and Clear

existing ingredients that have been clinically proven to

VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels were formulated on the

work. Using this product is an effective way to exfoliate

success of the results-oriented ingredients that our

the skin through a consistent routine at home and

body recognizes and is able to utilize without going

when combined with professional treatments, you’ll

in and altering cellular function.

see better results than ever before.

What are the benefits of peeling “the natural way” with all-natural ingredients?

This doesn’t actually “peel” my skin – how do I know it’s working? You don’t need to see the peeling or exfoliation to know the ingredients are working. Every skin type has

Using natural ingredients to topically treat the skin

a varying degree of thickness, causing every person

has already been clinically proven within the Éminence

to react differently to skin care ingredients. One

VitaSkin™ solutions. The VitaSkin™ Exfoliating Peels

may feel the peel more during certain seasons of the

contain naturally occurring acids that offer superior

year, or experience the sensation differently based

re-texturizing, resurfacing, brightening, calming and

on medications, hormones, treatments and/or other

antibacterial results. They offer a gentle, effective

products they’ve used previously. Peels will typically

way to lightly exfoliate the skin on a consistent basis

have a tightening effect over the course of a few days,

without causing any downtime. Nature and science

and may also show signs of redness and flaking during

come together to create beautifying results!

this time, which is normal as the cells rapidly turn over. Keeping your skin cool and giving it time to adjust will give you the best desired results.

Introducing Results-Oriented Exfoliating Peels for Every Skin Type

F I R M SKI N AC AI EXFOLIATI NG P EEL For Aging Skin

B R IGHT SKI N LICOR ICE ROOT EXFOLIATI NG P EEL For Hyperpigmented Skin

C ALM SKI N CHAMOM I LE EXFOLIATI NG P EEL For Sensitive Skin

CLEAR SKI N WI LLOW BAR K EXFOLIATI NG P EEL For Acne Prone Skin

If you are interested in partnering with Éminence, an award-winning natural, organic and Biodynamic® skin care line, call 1-888-747-6342 or visit www.eminenceorganics.com.

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DECEMBER 2015

V o lume 30

Number 12

CONTENTS ORGANIC & WELLNESS

SKIN The Golden [Skin] Ritual Sugar Shakedown Time to Undo Skin News

10 18 26 36

Spice it Up! 108 Sustain & Gain 112 Organic & Wellness News 118

Spice it Up! page 108

Sugar Shakedown page 18

SPA

Pinch of Youth

38 50 58

Spa of the Month Skin Care for the Hair Spa News

page 122

IMAGE Let’s Talk Makeup with Tara Marie Hoxha Pinch of Youth Image News

BUSINESS LNE & Spa Chat with Osa Mallo Boutique is Unique Contractors vs. Employees Business News

62 66 72 76

GUT HEALTH GUIDE Your Personal Ecosystem 78 What is the Gut 84 Gut Warriors 86 Toxin Flush Out 91 Acidic vs. Alkaline 94 From the Inside Out 96 Probiotics Photo Feature 106

Gut Health Guide page 77

120 122 129

EXTRAS From the Editor The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadephia Recap Advertiser Index

6 46 130

Cover Sothys

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, (USPS 003-687) (ISSN 1043-9641) is published monthly, 12 times per year and is sold exclusively by subscription. Publisher’s Name: Jean Jacques Legrand, M.D., 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, FL, 33134. Periodical postage paid at Miami, Florida, with additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to: Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa, American Edition, 3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd., Coral Gables, Florida 33134, United States Subscription: Annual Rate $45.00 Canada Subscription: $55.00 (American) 1st Class Postage Overseas Subscription: Two years for $140.00 (U.S.) Air Mail Postage

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from the

editor Improved Formula New Look

WHAT A YEAR 2015 HAS BEEN! It has been our pleasure to bring you 12 editions of the latest trends in the skin care and spa industry along with four congresses of exclusive education, peer networking and innovative products. Thank you for your loyalty and allowing us to be your source of inspiration throughout the year!

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A new year brings the promise of a fresh start and endless possibilities but is followed by a hectic time of stress and overindulgence, leaving your clients in need of renewing more than ever. Prepare to revamp their health from within with this month’s Gut Health Guide starting on page 77, a comprehensive section on how best to nurture the gut with treatments, nutrition, probiotics and doing right by the friendly personal bacteria that can make or break your clients’ wellness. A clean gut is the foundation for clear skin, optimal system functioning and a radiant appearance, everything your clients need to feel new again. Complement this sentiment by incorporating home care to your treatments with the probiotic-based product photo feature starting on page 106.

Available Now

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The December edition of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa gets to the root of well-being for your clients and business with glycation treatments for the skin, soothing scalp care for the source of healthy hair and profitable sustainability for your spa. Add pampering and beauty to wellness with luxurious gold treatments, the incredible virtues of ginger and nude color lip tattooing for a beautiful, natural pout. Happy reading! On behalf of your friends at LNE & Spa, we wish you a great holiday season!

—Amanda Clinton Winter, amanda@lneonline.com

A Big Collaboration Bio-Therapeutic is an official supplier of Advanced Skin Care Technology for The International Dermal Institute and Dermalogica.

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Say you saw it in LNE & Spa and circle #139 on reader service card bio-therapeutic.com | 800.971.6259

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3929 Ponce De Leon Blvd. Coral Gables, Florida 33134 800.471.0229 (USA) Worldwide: 305.443.2322 Fax: 305.443.1664 LNEonline.com email: tradeshows@LNEonline.com subscriptions@LNEonline.com Publisher Dr. Jean Jacques Legrand Chief Executive Officer Rodolphe Legrand rodolphe@LNEonline.com Vice President Christèle de La Haye christele@LNEonline.com Managing Editor Amanda Clinton Winter amanda@LNEonline.com Editorial Associate Raquel Levy raquel@LNEonline.com Art Director Andres Gutierrez andres@LNEonline.com

GLOW FACIAL

Designer Charlie Jackman charlie@LNEonline.com Director of Sales Aché Saint ache@LNEonline.com Exhibitor Operations Manager Elizabeth Allen liz@LNEonline.com Web Developer Marriott Perez marriott@LNEonline.com

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Conference Coordinator Jacqueline Reyes jackie@LNEonline.com

PREFECT FACIAL FOR THE HOLIDAYS Light exfoliation is followed by caviar ampules, gold elixir and an application of gold leaves, leaving skin brilliantly illuminated. Ideal for parties, weddings, and other high-profile events. RECEIVE A RETAIL SIZE OF GOLD MASK WITH YOUR PURCHASE OF PROFESSIONAL KIT. OFFER VALID THROUGH DECEMBER 31, 2015

BELLA SCHNEIDER BEAUTY LLC Toll Free: 888.200.3977 www.bellaschneiderbeauty.com

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International Editor Michele de Lattre-Pierantoni 7 Avenue Stephane-Mallarme, 75017 Paris, France - 43 80 06 47 ADVISORY BOARD Lydia Sarfati • Ben Johnson, M.D. • Lake Louise • Nina Curtis Diane Buccola • Camille Hoheb • Joseph Mandato

C ontr ibutors Linda Beach

Raquel Levy

Dori Soukup

Rose Marie Beauchemin

Alice Marcy, Ph.D.

David Suzuki

Caroline Canetti

Marc A. Ronert, M.D, Ph.D.

Annette Tobia, Ph.D.

Linda DiMariano

Paul Schmidt

Amanda Clinton Winter

Rebecca Gadberry

Bella Schneider

Printed with 100% soy-based ink. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilities exist.

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Visit our website: www.ladyburd.com LNEonline.com

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The

Golden [ skin ]

Ritual by Bella Schneider

Gold has been considered one of the best ingredients for skin care across civilizations and throughout history, inspiring glamour and opulence.

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SKIN

| THE GOLDEN [SKIN] RITUAL

he Romans used gold preparations for the treatment of skin lesions and sores. Egyptians believed it cured all ailments. Cleopatra slept with a pure gold mask on her face to maintain a radiant complexion and preserve her beauty. In ancient Chinese civilizations, many empresses used crushed gold to enhance their skin. Geishas used to rub pure gold leaves on their skin. Today gold leaf is used in antiaging products and services for its rejuvenating properties, as well as the treatment of several skin conditions.

TOPICAL SKIN CARE BENEFITS Gold boosts blood flow, speeds cellular processes, blocks the formation of unwanted skin conditions and activates skin cell regeneration. When applied topically, it activates skin cell electrons sensitive to electric charges and stimulates ions to recreate cellular connections. Gold strengthens, heals and rejuvenates skin.

improved blood flow promotes skin health, rejuvenating skin and creating vitality, tone, radiance and luminosity. When the small particles of gold are absorbed into the skin they impart a shimmery golden tone. It dissolves on skin’s surface due to the body’s ability to easily assimilate it, instantly reflecting light.

Restores Elasticity

Protects Against Oxidants

Gold locks in skin’s moisture and prevents the breakdown of collagen and elastin, which causes wrinkles and loss of firmness. It stimulates cellular growth of the basal layer of skin to regenerate healthy, firm skin cells and provides a visible tightening effect, preventing sagging.

Due to its bioavailability, gold has an immediate impact on the skin because the body easily absorbs it. Gold is widely used in medicine because, unlike many foreign materials, it does not get rejected or attacked by the body due to a remarkable ability to bypass the immune system. When absorbed, it creates a reservoir within the skin that fights the breakdown of collagen and skin proteins. The particles seep into skin, protecting against fine lines and discoloration while inhibiting the negative effects of external stressors, fighting off free radicals.

Creates Glowing, Even Skin Tone Gold improves blood circulation, helping to hydrate and maintain the skin’s moisture levels and suppleness. The

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Conditions Addressed By Gold • Wrinkles, fine lines and spots Gold can activate the basal cells of the skin, promoting elasticity. It increases the skin’s metabolic rate and moisture levels, helping to buffer against premature aging by reducing wrinkles, fine lines, blemishes and marks on the skin.

• Acne and scarring By speeding up the healing process, gold helps block the formation of acne inflammation and fights bacteria formation.

• Discoloration When inflammation is spot treated with gold, it reduces the appearance of age spots and slows the production of pigmentation (melanin). Gold evens out skin tone, reduces dark under eye circles and even lessens the appearance of freckles.

Ill u mi n a ti o n B e g i n s wit h Y o u .

A ll i s C a l m . . A l l i s B r i g h t . AV E R YG R A H A M . CO M

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T he Se aso n of

SKIN

THE GOLDEN [SKIN] RITUAL

BROAD APPEAL

Fights Inflammation Research shows gold is beneficial in treating inflammation and inhibits skin enzymes involved in blister and ulcer formation. Gold minerals have the ability to impede the formation of inflammation at the molecular level. Gold also helps transport oxygen molecules into the skin, aiding in healing, and it’s antibacterial properties help soothe flare-ups.

Regenerates New Skin Cells Gold encourages skin to regenerate and increase cellular turnover, reducing fine lines and wrinkles while making skin appear firmer and thicker. Gold ions stimulate blood circulation which increases the metabolism of skin cells, waste secretion and skin

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health. The accumulation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs) in the skin causes it to lose some elasticity. However with gold particles taking up the place where carbohydrates would otherwise bind, the formation of AGEs is inhibited, minimizing wrinkle formation. n

Bella Schneider is the founder and CEO of LaBelle Day Spas & Salons and an international product formulator and distributor through 5 Star Formulators. In her 30 years of experience in skin care science, Schneider has been an innovator in ethnic skin care, peels and peer education.

Products with gold are at their highest demand ever! Our obsession started in the 1960s when a sexy James Bond in the movie “Goldfinger” investigated a gold adorned smuggling ring. Today, services and products with gold for face and body are synonymous with wealth and glamour. Shimmery spray tans, golden body oils and lotions are in fashion. Stars are posting Instagram images of themselves getting gold facials. Get in on the trend by incorporating full goldinfused facial protocols, serums and creams into your menu and feature pictures of these gold treatments in your own social media. For added glitz and appeal, offer facial services that incorporate gold masks, eye patches and gold leafing. For the ultimate finishing touch, offer glamorous gold makeup products and applications such as bronzers, foundation, powders, eye shadows and lip glosses with a gold sheen to top off your clients’ looks!

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GOLDEN

SPLENDOR

Karat infused products to give your clients the gift of radience.

2 Essie

Sequin Sash essie.com

Fleurâ€™s

Golden Peel fleur-s.com

Thalgo

Polynesia Sacred Oil thalgousa.com

3 Bio Jouvance

24K Cleopatraâ€™s Gold Serum & Cream biojouvance.com

jane iredale

24-Karat Gold Dust Shimmer Powder janeiredale.com

december 2015

Bella Schneider Beauty Glow Facial Gold Drops Serum & Glow Facial Gold Leaves bellaschneiderbeauty.com LNeonline.com

Bio France Lab

24KT Gold Facial Serum biofrancelab.com

KollagenX

ĂŞtre belle

24KT Gold Collagen Mask kollagenx.com

Golden Skin Caviar Lifting Serum etre-belle.co

11 Alessandro International

Sunday Rose Euphoria Top Coat alessandro-international.us

Klapp Cosmetics

Ceremony of Gold Golden Body Oil & Golden Energy Serum klapp-cosmetics.com

12 Martinni Beauty

24K Gold Lip Collagen Mask martinnibeauty.com

Gold Cosmetics and Skin Care Shir Gold Mask goldcosmetics.com

Sphatika

Gold Finishing Serum sphatika.com

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SUGAR

SHAKEDOWN Stopping the GLYCATION PROCESS by Annette Tobia, Ph.D. and Alice Marcy, Ph.D.

t may only take a few minutes of brisk walking to work off the calories from that teaspoon of sugar in our morning coffee, but the damaging effects of sugar on skin can persist for much longer. While the body uses sugars as the nutrient source for energy and maintaining cellular health, sugar has a dark side, combining with proteins, fats and even DNA through a chemical reaction called glycation.

What is Glycation — and Why Does it Age Skin? In skin, sugar molecules can bind to proteins such as collagen and eventually form advanced glycation end products — appropriately termed AGEs — through further oxidative chemical reactions. These AGEs can abnormally crosslink collagen molecules, making them less flexible and ultimately contributing to the appearance of prematurely aged skin. AGEs also act as inflammatory cellular signals and cause the release of inflammatory cytokines that lead to the production of matrix metalloprotease enzymes (MMPs) that break down collagen. And as if all of this isn’t bad enough, AGEs inactivate the body’s natural antioxidant repair system — making skin even more susceptible to their damaging effects.

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SKIN

SUGAR SHAKEDOWN

collagen. Meglumine is one such ingredient, along with aminoguanidine, arg-lys peptide and carnosine. Antioxidants make up the second group of anti-glycation agents; they can prevent the oxidative reactions that form AGEs. Meglumine also belongs to this second group, along with vitamin C, vitamin E and alpha lipoic acid, which are all excellent antioxidants available in a wide variety of products. Botanical extracts, such as those from green tea, gooseberry, grapeseed, blueberry and cranberry are full of polyphenols that have antioxidant activity and may also prevent the initial reaction of sugar with collagen.

TREATING GLYCATED SKIN IN THE SPA Glycation-damaged skin has impaired healing properties, so it’s important to avoid harsh treatments that would result in extensive inflammation when treating this condition. For glycated skin, use gentle skin treatments that support the formation of new collagen and elastin while aiding cellular turnover. Combining meglumine with these ingredients in treatments enhances the healing and recovery process. Glycated skin may benefit from nonablative microdermabrasion, laser resurfacing and light peels to address decreased cellular turnover.

Glycation is ultimately a critical contributor to aging skin because collagen is replaced relatively slowly. It takes about 15 years to replace half of the collagen in skin and collagen synthesis declines with age1. These conditions cause damaged collagen to accumulate as we get older, leading to wrinkles and a loss of suppleness. Furthermore, UV-exposed skin has increased levels of AGEs2, possibly due to the AGEs-promoting oxidative stress environment created from sun exposure. 20

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GLYCATION FIGHTING TOPICALS Cosmetic ingredients that fight glycation generally come from two groups. To be optimally effective, an anti-glycation cosmetic should contain both types of ingredients. The first group of anti-glycation agents contains molecules that prevent sugars from attacking skin proteins or even reverse the process. Often these ingredients act as decoys for sugar molecules that are targeting

Although it’s impossible to completely remove sugar from one’s diet, healthy choices that minimize ingestion of added sugar reduce opportunities for glycation to occur.

SKIN

However, these may not be suitable for clients with thin skin. Anti-aging facials are beneficial to glycated skin because they utilize professional grade ingredients to stimulate collagen and elastin production and introduce precise ingredient combinations that are tailored to the client’s needs and skin type.

NUTRITIONAL FACTORS To help your clients avoid or minimize glycation in their skin, it’s key to educate them on the causes behind it and preventative measures they can take.

-Reading labels Although it’s impossible to completely remove sugar from one’s diet, healthy choices that minimize ingestion of added sugar reduce opportunities for glycation to occur. Sugar is often added during food processing to enhance the flavor, appearance or texture of the final product and food labels can be deceptive. More than 50 forms of added sugar exist, and even when sugar is not the leading ingredient on a food label list, it can still make up a significant percentage.

-Qualifying carbohydrates Carbohydrates in foods such as pasta, bread, rice and potatoes need to be considered as sugar sources, since they are broken down during digestion to become sugars. Whole grains and brown rice are preferable due to the presence of added fiber, which slows down the body’s processing of these carbohydrates into sugar.

-Food preparation Heating enhances the flavor and aroma of foods, but also speeds up the glycation chemical reaction between sugar and protein. Foods cooked with high heat such as roasted, grilled or fried meats and roasted nuts have very high

SUGAR SHAKEDOWN

HOME CARE HELP Outside the treatment room, offer your clients with glycated skin the following tips for their home care protocol: • Wear sunscreen and protective sunglasses to help minimize the glycationenhancing effects of UV rays. • Use retinol at night to spur collagen and elastin production and decrease levels of collagen-degrading enzymes while avoiding the challenge of UV sensitivity. *When clients are beginning this protocol, advise them to only apply products that have the lowest level of retinol, and use only every other day before working up to more frequent applications with a more concentrated product.

levels of AGEs3. Fresh produce and minimally processed or refined foods, on the other hand, tend to be low in sugars and AGEs (see Glycation and Food sidebar on page 22). Fresh fruits and vegetables have the added benefit of high antioxidant content to counteract the effects of glycation.

OTHER LIFESTYLE FACTORS Lifestyle choices also influence exposure to AGEs. For example, cigarette smoke contains chemicals that can form AGEs, and smokers have elevated AGE levels in their circulation4. Exercise, on the other hand, may decrease circulating AGEs. Quality of sleep can also impact exposure to glycation; impaired breathing conditions such as sleep apnea causes an increase in circulating AGEs.

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SKIN

SUGAR SHAKEDOWN

GLYCATION AND FOOD Foods that may promote glycation

Foods that may minimize glycation

• Highly processed grain products (white flour)

• Minimally processed whole grain products (whole wheat)

• Processed cereals

• Non-instant oatmeal and hot cereals

• Roasted nuts • Raw nuts • Processed or grilled fruits and vegetables

• Fresh fruits and vegetables

• Full fat, aged cheeses

• Low fat, fresh cheese

• Meats, fish and soy cooked at high heat (roasted, broiled, fried) or in the presence of sugar (such as marinades)

• Meats, fish and soy steamed or cooked at lower temperatures in non-sugary, liquid- braised sauce, poached or stewed

• Chips, crackers, pretzels

• Air popped popcorn without butter

• Soda, sport drinks, fruit juice and tea with added sugars

• Unsweetened fruit juice and tea

References: 1. Verzijl, N., DeGroot, J., Thorpe, S., Bank, R., Shaw, J., Lyons, T., . . . TeKoppele, J. (2000). Effect of Collagen Turnover on the Accumulation of Advanced Glycation End Products. Journal of Biological Chemistry, 275(50):39027-39031. 2. Yamauchi, M., Prisayanh, P., Haque, Z., & Woodley, D. (1991). Collagen Cross-Linking in Sun-Exposed and Unexposed Sites of Aged Human Skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 97:938-941. 3. Uribarri, J., Woodruff, S., Goodman, S., Cai, W., Chen, X., Pyzik, R., . . . Vlassara, H. (2010). Advanced Glycation End Products in Foods and a Practical Guide to Their Reduction in the Diet. Journal of the American Dietetic Association, 110(6):91116. 4. Cerami, C., Founds, H., Nicholl, I., Mitsuhashi, T., Giordano, D., Vanpatten, S., . . . Cerami, A. (1997). Tobacco smoke is a source of toxic reactive glycation products. Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 13915-13920. Sources: Brown, T.R., et al. (1999) U.S. Patent No. 6,004,958. Washington, DC: U.S. Patent and Trademark Office. Brown, T.R., et al. (2009) U.S. Patent No. 7,615,528. Washington, DC: U.S. Patent and Trademark Office. Tobia A., et al. (2009) U.S. Patent No. 7,622,117. Washington, DC: U.S. Patent and Trademark Office.

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“Inspired by Nature... realized by Science.”

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LUC R ÈCE PHYSICIANS’ AESTHETIC RESEA RCH | 800.626.7546 • www.lucrece.com

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SKIN

Is Glycation Stressing Your Skin? Each response has designated points; tally them for a final score and evaluation.

Pinpointing the characteristics of glycated skin and its progression on the skin’s surface is a difficult task. When your client comes in for treatment, how do you know if they are struggling with glycated skin? Here is a simple quiz estheticians can give their clients to determine the risk glycation poses to their skin’s health and beauty. The questions are divided into three categories: diet, skin characteristics and sensitivity.

Q: Do you tend to end a meal with a sweet treat, other than fresh fruit? No (0 points) Yes, dark chocolate (1 point) Yes, sugary treats such as cake and cookies (2 points) Q: Do you snack on sweets, other than fruit, between meals? No (0 points) Yes, dark chocolate (1 point) Yes, sugary treats (2 points)

2. Skin Characteristics: Q: Does your skin demonstrate the following characteristics? (1 point for each) Dryness Dullness Flaking Skin Hyperpigmentation Wrinkles/Sagging Q: Do you feel as if the smooth, firm, supple skin that you once had is now decreased? Yes (1 point) No (0 points) |

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Q: Is your skin sensitive to aggressive facial treatments? Yes (1 point) No (0 points) Q: Is your skin responsive to moisturizers? Yes, my skin feels moisturized (0 points) No, I can never get enough moisture (1 point)

1. Diet:

3. Sensitivity:

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Your Client’s Score: 0-2 Healthy skin that should use maintenance products to prevent the effects of glycation.

3-5 Skin at risk of quickly demonstrating signs of glycation, oxidative stress and inflammation.

6-11 Damaged skin in need of glycation repair and immediate attention.

Annette Tobia, Ph.D., is founder of Dynamis Skin Science, which offers the MEG 21 product line. Dr. Tobia earned her PhD from New York University, her post-doctoral degree at Rockefeller University and her law degree from Rutgers School of Law. Alice Marcy, Ph.D., is vice president of Dynamis Pharmaceuticals. Dr. Marcy earned her PhD from Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine.

Skin knows. From the purest ingredients, to our innovative formulations, quality is something the skin can feel. Clients indulge in it. Therapists prefer it.

• Paraben Free • Dye Free • Unscented • Natural

Call for free samples • 800.253.6466 • www.bonvital.com

™

Performance Health®, Bon Vital’®, Biofreeze®, TheraBand™, the Color Pyramid Design™ and Associated Colors™, TheraPearl®, Pedigenix®, Prossage® and Cramer® Trademarks are property of Performance Health and/or its subsidiaries and may be registered in the United States and other countries. Unauthorized use is strictly prohibited. ©2015—Performance Health and Wellness Holdings. All rights reserved.

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TIME TO

undo POST-HOLIDAY SKIN REVIVAL TREATMENTS by Raquel Levy

After an overindulgent holiday season, people make New Year’s resolutions to treat their bodies right and get back in shape. But with the stress, excess eating and drinking, lack of sleep and traveling that comes with this time of year, your client’s skin needs some renewing too. The adverse effects of winter, poor diet and end-of-year chaos start to show on your clients’ faces, leaving them to ask you what can be done about their dull, dry and drooping skin. A new year is the perfect time to refocus your spa’s menus to restoring treatments for all your client’s post-holiday needs.

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SKIN

TIME TO UNDO

LACKLUSTER COMPLEXION Most of us have seen the immediate effects of not getting enough sleep, whether through dark circles under the eyes or needing to reach for that second cup of coffee. However, lack of sleep for extended amounts of time can result in a lifeless complexion. After the stress of the holidays, end-of-year projects and last-minute travels when your busy clients skimp on sleep, their bodies release more cortisol. This hormone can break down collagen, causing dull skin and even fine lines. Nicole Roketenetz, esthetic director at Bella Santé Day Spa Med Spa with locations in Boston, Lexington and Wellesley, says many clients come in after the holidays for their Lackluster To Illuminating Facial (50 minutes, $135; 80 minutes $175). “Our Illuminating Facial treatment uses vitamin C to brighten the skin and essential oils like acacia, parsley and lemon for relaxation,” she shares. “The result is healthy, hydrated and luminous skin.” For illumination coupled with antiaging treatments, Bella Santé’s Time Eraser (80 minutes, $185, $240 with lifting technology) redefines the contours of the face and restores a healthy glow. “The Time Eraser is the best because it includes exfoliation using lemon, clove, thyme and pulverized sunflower husks to brighten and even out skin tone using a hands-on lymphatic drainage technique,” explains Roketenetz. 28

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Because of the large variety of natural ingredients, many facials and skin treatments can be tailored to suit even the most problematic skin types. “Our illumination treatments can be customized for all skin types and conditions,” Roketenetz says. “Especially for dull, dehydrated, rough or tired skin that needs a boost.”

BAGGY EYES & DARK CIRCLES In addition to a dulling complexion, nights of missed sleep are most noticeable around the eyes. If the body does not rest, stress hormones can’t drop to normal levels at night and skin cells have no time to repair and rejuvenate. Lack of sleep also makes the

face look paler, giving a concave appearance around the eyes. Metamorphosis Day Spa in New York City creates many face and eye treatments specifically to care for and repair skin that has suffered a cold and sleepless winter season. Their “Eye Look Better” treatment (25 minutes, $50) can be offered alone or combined with another restoring facial.

After the stress of the holidays, end-of-year projects and last-minute travels when your busy clients skimp on sleep, their bodies release more cortisol.

SKIN

TIME TO UNDO

In addition to a dulling complexion, nights of missed sleep are most noticeable around the eyes. If the body does not rest, stress hormones can’t drop to normal levels at night and skin cells have no time to repair and rejuvenate.

DEHYDRATED SKIN

“My ‘Eye Look Better’ treatment includes a gentle exfoliation around the eyes with an organic enzyme peel, which is important because we don’t usually exfoliate around the eye,” says Metamorphosis owner Cleo Londono. “We do this before applying and massaging the serum so it penetrates the eye area.” Exfoliation is followed by a lymphatic drainage massage with

an eye cream rich in antioxidants and peptides, then a serum is applied with the use of ultrasonic technology and completed with a rejuvenating mask. “This is great for circulation, which improves dark circles,” Londono shares. “We also customize the eye mask according to the season. In the summer we do seaweed and in the winter we use paraffin.”

The holidays go by in a flash, and often this fast-paced time is fueled by a surplus of salty foods, alcohol and caffeine. All of which, combined with seasonal changes and harsher weather, can lead to dry or dehydrated skin. “Most clients coming in around the stressful holiday season are looking to escape the chaos and get out of the cold,” says Pamela Arcand, esthetician at Johnathan Breitung Salon & Luxury Spa in Chicago. “I find that almost everyone coming in around that time complains of feeling dry, dehydrated and in need of some quiet alone time. Most are looking for soothing hydration and some serenity.” Enter the spa’s Oxygen Infusion treatments (60-90 minutes, $150 standalone, $190 with oxygen infused microderm, $210 with facial and $250 with oxygen infused microderm and facial). Beginning with cleansing, analyzing the skin, exfoliating and performing extractions, Oxygen Infusion takes the place of a mask in the treatment protocol. “We use a pressurized oxygen machine that is connected to an airbrush to infuse customized hydrosols into the skin,” Arcand explains. LNEonline.com

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SKIN

TIME TO UNDO

“After misting the entire face, neck and decollate, the tip of the airbrush is placed directly onto the skin to deliver an intense infusion of serums to the skin. The last step in the infusion is to focus the mist on problem areas such as fine lines, deep wrinkles, acne and redness.” Arcand closes the treatment with moisturizer, lip balm, eye cream and sunscreen. Not only is their skin soothed, hydrated and refreshed after the treatment, clients don’t have to give up all the indulgences of the holidays just yet. Arcand adds, “Our hydrosols smell like cake and my clients can’t get enough of this calorie-free sweet treat!”

GLYCATION Your clients already know that extra slice of pumpkin pie probably isn’t great for their health, but what they may not realize is it could also be aging them faster. As we age and consume more sugar, the sugar molecules can mix 30

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with, and damage, the protein molecules, fats and even DNA in our bodies. This chemical process is called glycation and it creates new sugar proteins called advanced glycation end products, or AGEs, which damage collagen and elastin. Due to this, AGEs can cause accelerated aging signs such as wrinkling, loss of elasticity and stiffness. Anti-aging treatments specially geared towards glycation should be gentle and promote the production of more collagen and cell renewal. Lotus Salon & Day Spa in Newtown, Pa., offers an Anti-Aging Facial (60 minutes, $75) that includes cleansing

Not only is their skin soothed, hydrated and refreshed after the treatment, clients don’t have to give up all the indulgences of the holidays just yet.

with a skin care line steered toward glycation treatments, an advanced hydrating masque, a firming massage, extractions if necessary and minimal exfoliation. Though tailored toward glycation, Nicole Imbrenda, lead esthetician at Lotus says this gentle treatment is one of the most flexible because it can

work for all skin types. “I’ve never had problems with anyone experiencing a negative reaction to the treatment,” she shares. “After the facial, clients see hydrated, plumper skin and a reduction of redness.” See our in-depth article on glycation and the skin, “Sugar Shakedown,” on page 18!

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SKIN

TIME TO UNDO

breakouts, especially around the cheek and chin, due to stress,” says Londono. “Some clients also break out after they drink alcohol or if they are allergic to specific foods.” Metamorphosis offers several types of facials to treat post-holiday acne, the most popular being the Metamorphosis Signature Facial (90 minutes, $210). With fresh, all-natural herbs blended in front of the client, enzyme peels, herb-infused steams, extractions and aromatherapy, this cleansing treatment serves as the perfect detox. Adding a massage to the end of a facial is a great way to combat stress and soothe your client’s cares away. Johnathan Breitung’s oxygen treatments can be extended with a massage ($275 with oxygen infused microderm, facial and massage), Bella Santé’s Time Eraser includes a face, neck and shoulder massage and Lotus’ Anti-Aging facial treatment gently massages the

BREAKOUTS/ACNE Nothing is as undetectable in the moment, but as damaging in the long term as stress. During the holidays almost everyone feels some form of stress, whether over finding the perfect gifts, dealing with large families or working through last-minute plans. This negative type of stress can manifest itself in your client’s face, especially if they have pre-existing acne. A 2003 Stanford University study on “The Response of Skin Disease to Stress” in the Archives of Dermatology, discovered that, when compared to periods without testing, students experienced far worse acne flare-ups during exams. Stress hormone receptors can be found in the cells that produce sebum, which can mix with bacteria and dead cells to cause breakouts. “After the holidays people come back with

face. “We make it a point to tell our clients about the importance of relaxation,” Londono adds. “Every facial we offer includes a scalp, neck and shoulder massage, and the Metamorphosis Signature Facial includes this plus a foot massage. During and after the holidays, when people are tired from shopping and carrying bags, we specially promote foot and neck massages.” After your relaxing and renewing skin treatments, your clients will feel refreshed and ready to take on the new year with their best face forward, with you and your spa to thank!

Raquel Levy is the editorial associate at Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communications with an emphasis in writing and editing. Levy has been a lifestyle and feature writer for more than five years. Contact her at raquel@lneonline.com.

Coming next month in LNE & SPA

RESOURCES OF NATURE FOR AROMATHERAPY AND THE FACE...

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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA

Philadelphia, PA APRIL 10 & 11, 2016 Pennsylvania Convention Center

The Must-Attend Skin Care and Spa Professional Conference

f orward. Main Stage Lectures & Demos Business Conference Marketing Conference Retail Conference Medspa Conference Wellness Conference

Image Conference Spa Decor Conference AIA Conference Product Focused Training Demo Stages Hundreds of Exhibitors

P R ES E N T E D BY :

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Call 1.800.471.0229 for your official show program

USA: 305.443.2322

FAX: 305.443.1664

Double duty With a powerful plumper to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, the Quench Plus+ Plumping Moisturizer from Osmosis Skincare alleviates dryness and evens rough skin tones. Delicately scented with white grapefruit and bergamot, this moisturizing and anti-aging treatment revives thirsty skin for a younger, smoother complexion. Perfect for use under makeup, each application leaves a photo finish and velvety smooth feel!

877.777.2305 osmosisskincare.com

HI-TECH HEAVYWEIGHT Advanced technology meets cutting-edge ingredients to provide powerful hydration and radiant skin with bt-accent速 AIR from BioTherapeutic. Great for all skin types, services may be tailored to provide comprehensive and targeted applications for blemishes, brown spots and age management.

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This device can be used standalone with its three delivery systems, the jet, the wand or the dome as well as combined with wet/dry microdermabrasion, microcurrent and LED.

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND TREATMENTS

800.971.6438 bio-therapeutic.com

december 2015

Perfect for acne, photo damaged, dull and aging skin, the Pumpkin Peel mask from HydroPeptide clarifies, exfoliates and draws out impurities while nourishing skin with peptides, vitamins, enzymes and nutrients. The natural salicylic acid and enzymes in pumpkin remove dead cells, leaving skin smoother and clearer. Skin will be even and have a healthy glow following treatment.

800.932.9873 hydropeptide.com

DAZZLING DUET Jenasus Growth Factor Peel and Growth Factor Mask from M.A.D. Skincare is the first professional treatment using growth factors in a chemical peel and treatment mask for professional use only. Your clients will feel the immediate tightening and rejuvenating effects of this peel and mask. Collagen and elastin production is maximized to create younger, healthier and wrinkle-free skin.

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PUMPKIN FUELED POTENCY

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spa of the month

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healing gem the indigo spa at

hilton head health

hilton head island, s.c. By Linda Beach In an unspoiled barrier island off the coast of South Carolina, a transformational oasis is nestled deep inside a pristine forest filled with moss-draped oak trees, resting unassumingly beside an alligator-laden lagoon. The Indigo Spa is one of Hilton Head Islandâ€™s newest health and wellness offerings. Ranging in tones from violet to azure, indigo was named after a dye derived from the plant Indigofera tinctoria, grown as a cash crop in the areaâ€™s earliest settlements. Embraced by royalty, the color indigo symbolizes compassion and a state of inner peace and calm, perfectly representing a sanctuary that embodies these qualities.

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SPA

SPA OF THE MONTH

healthy mission With a mission to heal clients from the inside out, The Indigo Spa invites guests to come as they are. No judgment, no stress. This suggestion is especially important to guests who are on a health and wellness journey, seeking pampering without judgment. “The majority of our guests are enrolled in one of the weight-loss programs at the 40

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spa’s adjoining Hilton Head Health resort,” says spa manager Kelly Perron. Dubbed H3 by staff and guests, the wellness resort is world-renowned for its custom weight-loss, fitness and SELF (Stress management, Empowerment, Longevity, Fulfillment) plans. In addition to more than 130 fitness and outdoor adventure classes offered each week, H3 guests attend a variety of informative lectures and dine on low-calorie gourmet cuisine

prepared by award-winning chefs. SpaFinder has awarded H3 with “Best for Weight Loss” for the past five years. Also, Spas of America readers voted it as one of the top 100 spas of 2014 and health and beauty expert Lisa Drayer dubbed H3 as one of the “Top 5 U.S. Health Spas.”

rave reviews Although H3 has been offering spa treatments for over a decade, the newly built 3,100-square-foot Indigo Spa opened its doors in February 2015 to rave reviews from both guests and locals. More than 75 percent of H3 pro-

SPA

With a mission to heal clients from the inside out, The Indigo Spa invites guests to come as they are. No judgment, no stress.

gram participants use the facility during their stay and area residents have recently discovered this hidden gem. “Almost 20 percent of our spa guests are locals and that number is growing,” says Perron. “We have made an effort to get involved in our community by supporting a number of causes. We regularly provide massages and gift certificate giveaways at 5K races and charitable events.” Hilton Head Island is a big vacation destination. In order to drive some of the tourist traffic to The Indigo Spa, Perron and her staff reach out regularly to vacation rental agencies. “We showed up at one recently with lunch and complimentary chair massages,”

Perron shares. “Needless to say they loved it!” Every other week the spa hosts a special event called Fine Lines, Fine Wines. For only $30, guests enjoy a glass of wine while a licensed esthetician discusses a skin care topic. Participants are treated to a face cleanse, mask and moisturizer. While the mask sets, they can ask questions and purchase products. According to Perron the event boosts retail sales and has been well received.

a stellar team Perron handpicked the loyal staff for their attention to detail and dedication

SPA OF THE MONTH

to customer service. Before the grand opening, the team spent two weeks training on product knowledge, treatment protocol and customer service. New hires attend a team building orientation and extensive training to ensure the spa’s high standards remain consistent. “Our vendors have been so supportive,” says Perron. “Since opening, all three have been back for further product knowledge and hands-on training.” Instead of cash commissions on product sales, spa staff members earn free products. “Our staff is committed to our lines and the positive impact our products can make on our guests,” she adds. Therapists also receive the full 20 percent gratuity that is automatically added to each service. The Indigo Spa conducts monthly staff meetings and team building outings. “It’s a good way to get everyone in the same room at the same time,” Perron explains. She shares guest reviews and encourages her team to make suggestions. “We value their feedback,” she adds. Staff reviews are conducted after 90 days and then again each January. Goals vary but are based on that particular employee’s strengths and weaknesses. With a staff to guest ratio of 3 to 1, attention to guest service is always the main priority.

respite for renewal The Indigo Spa offers a varied menu of services that focus on the inner journey to healing. Every treatment starts with a deep inhalation of the spa’s signature lavender blend to create an awareness of the breath and prepare the client for renewal. According to Perron, “The H3 program guests who book spa treatments typically indulge in at least one facial and several massages or body treatments during their stay.” Since around 70 percent of their clientele are female and 30 percent are male, the interior of the spa appeals to both sexes with its calm neuLNEonline.com

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SPA

SPA OF THE MONTH

With a staff to guest ratio of 3 to 1, attention to guest service is always the main priority. tral tones and nature-inspired touches. Indigo and amethyst are the accent shades and dozens of amethyst crystals adorn unexpected nooks and crannies. The most noticeable is the stunning 900-pound, $35,000 gem from Uruguay that greets guests at the end of the treatment hallway.

nature-inspired nurturing The relaxation lounge is expansive with floor-to-ceiling windows that give guests a feeling of being outdoors. This focus on bringing the outside in is continued in the signature treatment, Nature (110 minutes, $250). This sixpart ritual uses organic milk, bioactive peat enzymes and antioxidant berries 42

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to cleanse and a mushroom and phyto-nutrient wrap to stimulate the lymphatic system. This decadent healing treatment closes with a rhythmic fullbody massage using berry, cypress and birch-infused oils. Since most of the spa’s guests are on a weight loss journey, it’s no wonder the most popular body treatment is the Naturally Slimming Ritual (80 minutes, $220). Rich in antioxidants, plant enzymes and essential oils, this sumptuous experience combines an exfoliation, wrap and full body massage to target water retention, increase lymph flow and reduce inflammation. The most popular facial service is the Fit & Firm Transformational Facial (50 minutes, $160). This Europeaninspired treatment focuses on soften-

ing fine lines and restoring radiance. It starts with a sugar cane AHA exfoliation, continues with a custom mask, a relaxing arm and hand massage and finishes with a Fit & Firm eye lift treatment and anti-aging “cocktail” of a wrinkle reversing serum and vitamins. A number of massages adorn the menu, including The Indigo Sun (50/80 minutes, $160/$220) which incorporates brisk strokes with warming essential oils of cardamom, black pepper and amber to increase circulation and encourage detoxification. The Indigo Moon (50/80 minutes, $160/$220) is the perfect choice for winding down from a day of robust activity. It combines soothing massage strokes with essential oils of French lavender, rosemary and peperina to encourage sound sleep and pleasant dreams.

CHOOSE YOUR STYLE

â€˘ CHOOSE YOUR COLOR

CHOOSE NEWAPEEL

From the makers of the Diamondtome crystal free microdermabrasion comes 3 new fantastic colors. You can choose: Majestic Bamboo, Nautical Blue, Zen Stone and of course our Classic. Pick the color that best fits your style. AESTHETIC EXFOLIATION WAS NEVER SO COLORFUL.

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SPA

SPA OF THE MONTH

a place in the sun Hilton Head Island is surrounded by gorgeous beaches frequented by H3 guests. Accordingly, The Indigo Spa serves up a variety of before and after sun treatments with beach-inspired names like Wave of Dolphins and Healing Ocean Escape. The refreshing Sun Salutation (80 minutes, $220) starts with a crushed bamboo and ginger scrub followed by a full body application of warm poultices filled with rice bran and cherry blossom to stimulate circulation. It finishes with a hydrating berry oil. Guests who over-indulge on the sun’s rays recover with the After Sun Therapy (50 minutes, $150). A hydration spray of sea algae and silk extract blended with yuzu and mimosa flowers starts the cellular regenerating process. The treatment continues with a face and body lymphatic phytopower masque to help prevent peeling and soothe sun baked skin. The Indigo Spa at Hilton Head Health is an example of southern grace and charm. No detail is overlooked. No guest request is denied. Each person who steps through the doors is treated like the special client they are. In the words of a recent H3 guest, “I am here to focus on myself for once. I visit The Indigo Spa every day during my stay because they make me feel like I’m their only priority. I deserve that!”

the indigo spa at hilton head health 14 Valencia Road, Hilton Head Island, SC 29928

Launched: February 5, 2015 Owner: John Schmitz Manager: Kelly Perron

december 2015

facility 2 separate buildings

main spa 6 full-service treatment rooms, separate gender locker rooms, relaxation lounge Salon: 1 hair station, 2 mani chairs, 2 pedi chairs, 1 makeup station, 1 express room for waxing or mini-facials

H3 Resort Fitness room, swimming pool, hot tub, showers, steam rooms and lockers

staff 1 spa manager, 7 massage therapists, 3 estheticians, 1 cosmetologist, 1 nail technician, 2 spa coordinators

843.593.9900 indigospa.com

the rundown

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products S k i n A u t h o r i t y, R e d F l o w e r, Naturopathica, Jane Iredale, Living

Proof, Coola, Kashwere, Comphy and Deborah Lippmann. In addition to crystals, the spa sells art and jewelry made by local artists.

signature treatment Nature Signature Ritual

revenue composition 35 percent massage 30 percent skin care 20 percent body care 15 percent retail

Linda Beach is the owner of the International Spa Institute. She is a licensed massage therapist, certified DreamBuilder Life Coach, author and speaker. Beach’s newest endeavor, A Passionate Dream Life, helps entrepreneurs gain the knowledge and skills to prosper while serving their clients. Contact Beach at lbeach@isiSPAeducation.com.

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Eyelash Conditioner

Innovation to

GROW The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa

Philadelphia, 2015

Enthusiasm and energy generated within the walls of the Pennsylvania Convention Center on October 25-26, as thousands of spa professionals gathered to experience the only congress in the Northeast dedicated EXCLUSIVELY to professional skin care!

Educational Excellence Attendees were thrilled by the diverse lineup on the Main Stage, which offered them an abundance of fresh and passionate inspiration to boost their businesses and careers. Additionally, both days featured conferences highlighting the latest trends in spa business, retail, wellness, marketing, medical spas, image and spa décor. From the Main Stage lecture and demos, targeted conferences, demonstration stages, product focused training and exhibition floor, there was no shortage of opportunities for attendees to learn about what’s trending to benefit their business with the most pioneering concepts in the industry!

Yogi EuGene Gant Electrifying Main Stage Audience

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Main Stage Opening Ceremony with Michelle D’Allaird-Brenner

Electrifying

Inspiration

HydraFacial MD

Arya Essentials

“I rely on the Philly congress for the latest skin care innovations and education. Many of the products we use at the spa were introduced to us while attending the conference over the past few years.” -Susan Henry-Jones, owner of Day Spa at the Marina in Blades, Del. “The congress gives me the inspiration to continue in this business and bring in new products and protocols for my clients, especially faced with the challenges of today’s market.”

TiZo

M’lis

-Ellen M. Delaney, esthetician and owner of A New Spirit Aesthetics at The Kingsford House in Oswego, N.Y. “My overall experience at the show was fantastic! I appreciate being able to take advantage of so many educational opportunities and vendors in one location.”

Viktoria DeAnn

-Debora Kraeger, licensed esthetician and owner at Exquisite Skin Care Spa in Geneva, N.Y. “This is the only congress I attend to keep up with what’s trending in the industry because it caters exclusively to skin care professionals.” - Tiffany Sanderson, esthetician at The Skin Clinic in Belmonte, Mass. “The variety of companies at this conference was amazing. So much product innovation! The demonstration stages were awesome!”

Éminence Organic Skin Care

Candy Coat Beauty

-Jessica Savano, spa manager at Pure Tranquility Spa in Moorestown, N.J.

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december 2015

Repêchage Rhonda Allison

Flourishing

Le Mieux

Success

“We are so grateful for such a successful show and the exceptional support of the organizing team.” -Vida Karamooz, CEO of Blue Beautifly. Silhouet-Tone

“A beautiful, well run show with a wonderful array of vendors and attendees. Our booth was busy the whole time.” -Rose Marie Beauchemin, founder of Beau Institute.

“Great attendance of medical spas and doctors. We had a very successful selling event.” -Gary Conway, vice president of sales for Edge Systems, LLC.

“What stood out the most was the number of new spas opening. It is great to see the industry growing.” -Jessica Davies, marketing project manager of Silhouet-Tone USA.

december 2015

Circadia by Dr. Pugliese

“The Congress draws visitors from everywhere, and we see our own company’s progression through the customers, educators and students who come back year after year.” -Michael Q. Pugliese, CEO of Circadia by Dr. Pugliese.

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Misencil

Être Belle

ProCell Therapies

LightStim

“Great show! Fantastic connections and so much excitement.”

“Amazing show! We opened many new accounts and met so many skin care and spa professionals eager to learn.”

-Melissa Black, founder and owner of Candy Coat Beauty.

-Isabel Dassinger, president and CEO of Healing Zone Aesthetics.

“It was our first time exhibiting. What a great trade show! Excellent speakers and attendees eager to learn.”

“The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa is such an incredible way to get brand recognition and really drive sales.”

-Denise C. Ryan, director, professional clinical sales for BioPhotas.

Join us in 2016 for The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Philadelphia, APRIL 10-11 at the Pennsylvania Convention Center. We’ll see you there!

–Britain Todd, president and CEO of Contours Rx, LLC.

“Outstanding trade show. We met so many attendees interested in our brand.” -Shadoh Punnapuzha, founder of Arya Essentials.

“High standard conference with quality attendees!” -Tina Abnoosi, president and CEO of TAMA Research.

Contours Rx

Meg 21

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lne & spa: spa

SKIN CARE FOR THE

HAIR Revenue-Boosting Scalp Treatments by Linda DiMariano

ow often are your clients bringing up their skin care concerns? They come to you seeking to be beautiful, young and healthy, and today that means being wrinkle free with a flawless, even-toned complexion and lush, healthy hair. The majority of our clients have adopted a strict skin care regime to care for their faces and bodies, but how are they caring for their hair? Beautiful, healthy hair begins with a healthy scalp.

Caring for the scalp goes beyond shampooing and conditioning. Over time, a buildup of dead skin cells, styling products and hard water deposits can clog pores and prevent the scalp from absorbing moisture. Stacey Catalogna of DePasquale The Spa in New Jersey, which offers a variety of scalp therapies, explains, â€œA dehydrated scalp or buildup can result in hair loss, thinning and unhealthy hair.â€?

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the way to

scalp care Scalp care should be approached much like skin care. Similar to a skin care regimen, not only do you cleanse the skin but also detoxify and exfoliate, which removes dead skin cells and allows the scalp to absorb moisture. Massaging the scalp can stimulate blood circulation as well as have an amazing effect on emotional health and well-being. Hydrating and moisturizing treatments encourage cell turnover, minimize dryness and recapture the skin’s softness. Scalp care should ideally be approached as a preventative measure to slow the aging process and keep the skin healthier, longer. “Scalp care can change everything from the skin on your head to the hair follicle and strand,” says Brittnee Bitter, spa lead at Kohler Waters Spa at The American Club in Kohler, Wis. “Exfoliating your scalp and moisturizing with the correct oils will help to replenish the follicle. The hair starts at the scalp, you need to repair it and start with that!”

masks formulated for scalp and hair health are commonly used in professional scalp treatments to detoxify, moisturize and soothe the skin. 52

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tailored

therapies There isn’t a “one size fits all” approach to scalp treatments, since they are easy to personalize based on the specific concerns of each client. Many spas have opted to offer a menu of scalp treatments based on guest consultations to address the individual needs of each client. A shampoo bowl may be required to perform a professional scalp treatment, as shampooing and rinsing the hair may be necessary depending on the products chosen for the treatment. DePasquale The Spa’s Protein Masque for Hair and Scalp ($40, used as an addon to other treatments), a nutrient-rich masque formulated with acacia collagen, sunflower seed oils and shea butter, can be used by spas without

sink equipment. “Clients can choose to either wash out or leave in overnight for extra conditioning,” explains Catalogna. However, the majority of treatments require you to shampoo the hair. Select a gentle, detoxifying shampoo to clean the scalp and remove buildup, but not dry the skin. Masks formulated for scalp and hair health are commonly used in professional scalp treatments to detoxify, moisturize and soothe the skin. Heat is recommended and may require your client to sit under a heat lamp or dryer with a plastic cap to prevent the mask from drying too quickly.

SPA

Depending on the client’s needs, a balancing toner may be helpful to enhance the results of the scalp treatments, balance the skin’s pH and detoxify the scalp. You may want to finish the treatment with a weightless conditioner to add extra shine and detangle hair. Focusing on the treatment aspect of the service allows your client to relax and feel pampered. Offering a 5-10 minute invigorating scalp massage also enhances blood circulation, bringing oxygen and nutrients to the surface. This portion of the treatment can be performed either at a chair or shampoo bowl.

SKIN CARE FOR THE HAIR

customize by

hair type Taking your client’s individual scalp and hair issues into account is key for a successful treatment. Recognizing scalp and hair types such as thinning hair, dry, damaged, oily or sensitive scalp allows you to customize your treatments accordingly. Choose products and ingredients suitable for each problem, such as vitamins E and C for repairing and nourishing brittle hair and amino acids to protect and maintain a healthy shine.

a shampoo bowl may be required to perform a professional scalp treatment, as shampooing and rinsing the hair may be necessary depending on the products chosen for the treatment.

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december 2015

SPA

SKIN CARE FOR THE HAIR

At Kohler Waters Spa at The American Club, Bitter and her team offer a Moroccan Scalp and Hair Treatment (50 minutes, $91, 80 minutes with a blow dry, $122). “While the client is face down on a table, we exfoliate, massage oils into the scalp and do a light upper back exfoliation and massage,” explains Bitter. “We then turn the client over, exfoliate and massage the front of scalp and do a light hand and foot massage. We also wash and mask the hair with every client.” Bitter warns that spas without a sink have to be wary of products, as specialty oils need to be shampooed out of the hair. These oils are best for dry, sensitive and oily scalps. Bitter says clients are thrilled to feel both relaxed from the simple act of a scalp massage and at the feel of their now silkier, shinier hair. The Vital Shot treatment (30 minutes, $25) at DePasquale The Spa restores and fortifies weak hair and protects scalp against environmental aggressors. A powerful dose of keratin and antioxidants strengthens and creates a smooth and shiny appearance. With natural essential oils and blends of vegan proteins and vitamin E, the spa’s Nourishing and Conditioning treatments (30 minutes, $20-$25) immediately repair and hydrate a dry scalp.

retail

booster

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Offering various types of scalp treatments to your clients increases retention by bringing them back for more treatments and opens a conversation about home care. Because your clients can also maintain a healthy scalp from home, it’s important to send them home with a regimen to help support the benefits of the service they received at the spa. Shampoos, conditioners, masks and sun care specifically address these concerns and generate significant additional revenue at a low cost. “Recommending take home products is so easy when they can see and feel the difference,” says Bitter. “The lines that we use have a wide variety for every client, from moisture to volume to smoothing. You have to help the client understand their hair, what they want with it or how they want it to be.”

promotional

tactics and packages Front desk staff is usually the last to interact with a client. Having a system in place, such as a customer card, allows the front desk team to accurately suggest each of the products used during the client’s experience. Keeping a record also allows the spa professional to repeat the service or makes it easy for the client to come back at a later time to purchase the products.

december 2015

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SPA

SKIN CARE FOR THE HAIR

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Utilizing loyalty programs is a great way to introduce new products and services. Offering free mini-services as add-ons gives your client a taste of what they can expect and entices them to take advantage of the full service in the future. You can also create packages that include other services at a slightly discounted rate. If a haircut is priced at $75 and a scalp treatment at $35, the total is $110. However, if a client purchases them together they may receive a 10 percent discount for a total cost of $99. Clients are able to take advantage of a larger selection of what the spa has to offer and they feel as though their money has gone further. Packages that offer discounts on products used during the package may also entice clients to try new services.

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return on

Investment The right scalp treatments for your client combined with an at home regimen leaves them feeling youthful, radiant and pampered, increasing the likelihood of them returning to your spa. Add-on services that benefit both the skin and hair are an easy way for spa professionals to create additional revenue. All it takes is a short amount of time, the right combination of products and the ability to give a soothing scalp massage to revitalize the look of their hair and boost their feelings of well-being.

contraindications • Open sores / infections on the scalp • Inflammation • Scalp eczema • Allergies to specific product ingredients Be sure to read directions on each product carefully, as some are not well suited for chemically straightened or color treated hair. Linda DiMariano is the Global Education Director for Athena Cosmetics, working to take education to the next level in the spa and hair industry. With more than 30 years in the industry, DiMariano previously held positions for Wella, Nioxin, Sebastian and Goldwell.

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SOPHISTICATED SLIMMING AND SMOOTHNESS The newest addition to Bioslimming’s night duo, Night Minceur 2 Slim Gel Action On Cellulite, erases the appearance of orange peel skin and encourages the elimination of excess water. With three high-powered ingredients, it boosts lipolysis and improves microcirculation to reactivate the elimination of waste accumulated in the tissue. With a moisturizing active ingredient, it’s the perfect ally for minimizing cellulite without dehydrating the skin.

877.700.7775 bioslimming.com

PETITE AND POWERFUL Packing a triple punch of power, portability and price, enter the NewApeel® Petite Exfoliation System by Altair Instruments. With the patented Diamondtome™ wand, the treatment is a safe approach to smoother, youthful skin at an unbeatable price. The HydroWand Kit turns this powerhouse into a customizable infusion system for greater profit.

MULTI-FUNCTIONAL BENEFITS

EQUIPMENT, SUPPLY AND BODY PRODUCTS

SPANews

Originally created for use after hair removal, finipil® by Equibal Labs got a nod from the FDA by earning registration as an over-thecounter antiseptic. Scientifically proven and dermatologist approved, finipil destroys 99.999% of germs and bacteria. Its moisturizing properties help prevent ingrown hairs as well. It cools the skin and aids in reducing redness and swelling, making it perfect for soothing minor burns, chapped skin and abrasions during a manicure or pedicure.

800.247.2405 nufree-professionals.com

MIGHTY BUT GENTLE CONTOURING A novel body contouring device, SkinVac LipoVac by UltraRadiance works via two noninvasive mechanisms. Suction from a vacuum and gentle massage from a massaging roller head revitalize lymphatic circulation, reactivate lipolysis and stimulate collagen production. The suction causes selective damage to the adipose tissue, stimulating collagen production and leading to tighter skin. The massaging roller head releases lymphatic fluids within the dermis.

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866.325.8247 altairinstruments.com

949.751.8346 ultrazz.com

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GrandeLASHâ„˘-MD:

A 5x award winning eyelash conditioner to promote fuller, thicker, longer-looking eyelashes in 4-6 weeks.

Ask us for your free samples of our products when you call to place an order. Mention this ad. 60

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Award-winning products that have taken the beauty world by storm.

GrandeMASCARA:

Lash Boosting Formula with Sympeptide 226EL provides instant and extreme fullness, volume and length.

GrandeLINER:

Available at Salons and Spas

GrandeBrow:

Eyebrow enhancing The ultimate, serum that promotes waterproof, thicker and fullerlong-lasting looking brows in precision brush tip liquid eye liner 6-8 weeks. that enhances lashes in 4-6 weeks.

1.877.835.3010 www.grandelashmd.com www.grandewholesale.com

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BUSINESS

LNE & SPA CHAT

LNE & SPA CHAT With Osa Mallo

Juggling & Balancing: The Act of a Spa Director

How would you define the concept of your spa? Waterfront oasis where East and West blend in harmony. Offering unique personalized treatments and quality service.

How many treatment rooms and amenities are there? Eleven treatment rooms and six luxurious VIP suites overlooking Biscayne Bay on a separate suite level. Relaxation area, steam/ sauna and experience shower as well as a fitness center.

How many employees do you have? We have an amazing team of about 50 colleagues, all carefully chosen for their skill, attitude and

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commitment to luxury service. Many of our therapists are dual licensed and others become specialists in a certain modality such as Thai massage or pregnancy.

What are your biggest challenges? Not enough time! There is always more to do, more you want to do better, spend more time with colleagues and make sure it all works perfectly.

How do you manage stress that work brings into your life? Spending time with my family and working out. In a world where accessibility is 24/7, I think it is necessary to have time away.

What is your hiring process? We review the applicantâ€™s resume, followed by interviews by several managers to get a well-rounded opinion. Therapists are trade tested. We also check references.

How do you select the people that work with you? By attitude and skill. We invest in a lot of training for our colleagues, we want to help them succeed but itâ€™s important that it is the right fit and both parties are clear on expectations. We have many colleagues in the spa that have

worked with us for a very long time and we never stop investing in our team.

How do you evaluate employees? We don’t limit it to guest comments and mystery inspections, we also observe and re-train. Committed colleagues that clearly understand our vision and have the skill, plus desire to be part of the vision, always shine.

How do you train staff? We believe training should be varied, plenty and meaningful. Some items can be covered and discussed in meetings, other trainings are hands on while others are activity based. We also frequently invite our vendors to train the team.

Where is the retail area? Our retail area is next to the reception area so all guests pass by on their way when coming in or leaving. The primary space has been allocated for treatment rooms and suites but during our renovation in 2010 we added a retail boutique that has been very successful and well received.

What are your retail goals? To bring a piece of the spa home with you. We want to

recommend an item to the guest because they would benefit from using it. In addition we carry items that are “wants” — beautiful or unique items you just have to have.

What incentives do you have for your staff to reach these goals? We pay commission and we also do many incentives to reach individual or group goals. Some the spa sponsors and others are sponsored by the vendors.

How do you keep customers loyal? Quality service and quality treatments.

What lessons have you learned from failures or Challenges? Consistency and preparation are really important. I do not need to know it all, my team members are all specialists and shine in different areas. My job is to lead and make sure that we work towards our vision and common goal… then we all succeed.

What are the most popular treatments? Massage tends to be the number one service, but we also have great signature treatments. Our results-driven facials are also very popular.

What advice could you give someone who wants to manage a spa? Be humble and learn from everyone, create a great team and find your leadership style.

What are key aspects of a spa director’s job? A spa director’s job is an exciting career choice because it is so varied. You have multiple departments within the department: reservations, reception, retail, attendants (housekeeping) and of course therapists. All positions require different skill sets, so you have to learn to how to manage a very diverse team and ensure that everyone is aligned with your goal.

Being business minded is another important aspect. Once spas were an amenity, now spas are expected to generate revenue and a healthy profit margin yet still create a warm nurturing environment for both guests and colleagues.

How did you become a spa director? Born and raised in Sweden, I attended hotel school in Switzerland for two years, followed by another two years at Florida International University (FIU) to get my bachelor’s in Hospitality Management. I worked first both in Rooms Division and Food & Beverage until I was offered a job in spa almost 20 years ago. And I loved it! n

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THE INTERNATIONAL CONGRESS OF ESTHETICS AND SPA

Dallas, TX MAY 15 & 16, 2016 Arlington Convention Center

The Must-Attend Professional Skin Care and Spa Conference

Main Stage Lectures & Demos Business Conference Marketing Conference Retail Conference Medspa Conference Wellness Conference

Image Conference Spa Decor Conference AIA Conference Product Focused Training Networking Opportunities Hundreds of Exhibitors

PRESENTED BY:

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Call 1.800.471.0229 for your official show program

USA: 305.443.2322

FAX: 305.443.1664 LNEonline.com

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BUSINESS

BOUTIQUE IS UNIQUE

december 2015

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BUSINESS

BOUTIQUE IS UNIQUE

Boutique

is Unique lity a u id iv d In e h t g in Brand ss e in s u B ll a m S r u o of Y by David Suzuki

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BUSINESS

BOUTIQUE IS UNIQUE

Brand Success There is a sales pitch that suggests a brand can be so strong that it will “build your clientele” and literally drive customers to your business because of brand consumer recognition. While we cannot say that this is entirely without merit for general retail models, the business of skin care and spa is very unique. Our clientele has been built and will continue to expand as a result of our own unique brand that represents our ideology and philosophy that translates to amazing looking skin. In the end it is the knowledge and expertise of our team and the results they provide that keep our clients coming back. It is this trust and confidence that they have in us that makes them continue to champion our business, purchase products from us and refer us to their closest friends and family, regardless of the brand that we carry in our retail area. So I ask you this question, does the brand of a product that you use in your professional services and retail define your business? And is this brand the reason why your clients return to you over and over?

Choosing a Brand Choosing the right brand for your business is a multifaceted decision. You must consider the ideology, culture, science, efficacy, packaging and most importantly, the vision of the company. Each of these categories must make sense for your unique business. Remember that when you partner with a brand, you are literally investing in them, and an investment should never be taken lightly! While large brand names may excite you with quick recognition and end consumer PR, keep in mind that they benefit every retailer of that brand, in the same way that including department stores and the online sales machines thicken the competition and lower your profits. We must remember that we are not a department store and should never attempt to compete with them in the muddy waters of the mass consumer market. Instead, we must champion who we are as a one of a kind, unique skin therapists and carry a brand that exemplifies this vision: uncommon, boutique and for professionals only.

Vision Quest We seek out every new idea, technology, ingredient and product in the marketplace that we hear about from our peers, education classes, trade magazines and conferences that we attend. We understand that it’s up to us to remain on the cutting edge and “in the know” regarding anything and 68

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everything that can enhance our clients’ visual appearance, and more expeditiously help them reach their objective of beautiful, younger looking skin. This of course includes extraordinary products formulated with the highest percentage of scientifically proven active ingredients. While many larger brands may have a seemingly endless budget for research and development to create amazing things, their objectives in many cases are different than those of the professional skin therapist and are commonly hyper-focused on marketability and profitability of a “reasonable” product. Does this meet your objectives and vision, or are you looking for something exceptional?

Boutique is Uniq

A unique boutique coffee shop is a one of a kind store where the owners roast the coffee beans themselves and work behind the espresso machine to fill each cup to the brim with intense passion. When a company is small, there’s not much

BUSINESS

Life of a Brand Every brand and business that is successful will inevitably go through growth and evolution. While there are many companies who actually plan to stay small, there are others that are determined to become an empire. Each company model serves a purpose, serves its clientele and brings benefits to our society — while clearly there is one model that will champion your business as a skin therapist. Understanding the ideology, philosophy and culture of the suppliers you are working with, their core values and their vision of the future will likely give you a good idea of whether or not the company is a good match for you and your business’ long term plans. As a brand gains more and more recognition via word of mouth, it’s very important that you are one of a few exclusive retailers through whom clients can obtain this product in their respective area, as opposed to one of hundreds. At the end of the day, a good product manufacturer with a vision parallel to your own can be an amazing partner and truly help champion your business from good to great. Remember that you are a unique, one of a kind skin therapist and the most important brand you can invest in is yourself. It’s because of you that your clients come back and the reason your business exists. The bottom line? Seek out a partner who shares your core values, vision, integrity and passion for beautiful skin. n

David Suzuki, president of Bio-Therapeutic, Inc., is an authority on technology and regulatory issues in the esthetic industry, including FDA submission and acquisition. He serves as an advisor to institutions and state boards, writes for numerous industry publications and journals and conducts educational seminars and classes. Email him at dsuzuki@bio-therapeutic.com or visit bio-therapeutic.com.

BOUTIQUE IS UNIQUE

When you partner with a brand, you are literally investing in them, and an investment should never be taken lightly!

Royal Silhouette Total Serum • Leave On Enzyme Serum •Stimulates Cell Regeneration W/ Roe Enzyme Extract • Tightens Fibroblastins & Refines Pores W/ L-Carnitine • Helps with Inflammation W/Beta Glucan & Copper

(800) 951-7005

www.halecosmeceuticals.com Info@halecosmeceuticals.com

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opportunity for the passion, integrity or intensity to be diluted at all. On the contrary, it is these very attributes that transform an idea into a thriving business and are obligatory for a small business to survive and thrive. When it comes to formulating skin care, the intense passion for product development in an organic, unique boutique environment is an energy that is tough to compete with — and emanates through every ounce of the final extraordinary product created. This is made possible because the vision is about results, not the cost of goods. After all, what value is there in a cheap product that does nothing?

99%

saw visible difference in their skin after one Hydra 4® Red-Out™ Facial with Micro Silver (patent pending)

92%

saw less irritation after using the Hydra 4® Red-Out™ Calming Cleanser (patent pending)

89%

saw smoother skin after using the Hydra 4® Red-Out™ Serum (patent pending)

DOCTOR TESTED.* CLEAR RESULTS.** *Tests conducted by licensed esthetician under doctor supervision

**Client evaluation and reaction after 28 days of at-home usage *DERMATOLOGIST TESTED

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ISO

9001 CERTIFIED COMPANY

You

N ! W E

HYDRA 4

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FACIAL & AT-HOME PRODUCTS With Micro Silver For Hypersensitive Skin

Our Exclusive Formula Combines Seaweed with Micro Silver to Calm and Soothe Symptoms of Rosacea and Hypersensitive Skin

(patent - pending) Call us for a FREE DVD and SAMPLES 1.800.248.7546 For more information & results, visit www.repechage.com

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In House

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Control Materials |Quality december 2015 | Systems

BUSINESS

CONTRACTORS VS. EMPLOYEES

Contractors vs. Employees: How to Decide Which is Right for Your Business by Dori Soukup

december 2015

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CONTRACTORS VS. EMPLOYEES

hen deciding whether to staff your spa business with independent contractors or full time employees, there are many factors to take into consideration. This article clarifies the pros and cons of each to help you make the right choice for your business.

Consider the differences according to the IRS: AN EMPLOYEE STATUS Under common law rules, anyone who performs services for you is your employee if you can control what will be done and how it will be done. This is so that even when you give the employee freedom of action, you have the right to control the details of how the services are performed.

Example: Donna is a massage therapist employed on a full-time basis by Blue Spa. She works five assigned days a week and is scheduled to work at certain times on those days. She performs massages based on the spaâ€™s protocols and she must follow the systems and policies of the spa. She is paid a commission and is eligible for awards and bonuses offered by Blue Spa. Donna is an employee of Blue Spa.

INDEPENDENT CONTRACTOR STATUS An individual is an independent contractor if the payer has the right to control or direct only the result of the work â€” and not what will be done or how it

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Contractors vs. Employees

will be done. The earnings of an individual working as an independent contractor are subject to self-employment tax.

Example: Lisa is an esthetician hired by Blue Spa to provide facials as an independent contractor. She has the flexibility to set her own hours and come and go as she pleases. She can follow her own protocols and dress however she likes. She doesn’t have to follow Blue Spa’s operational guidelines and procedures. Lisa is an independent contractor because the payer does not have the legal right to control the details of how she performs the services. Keep in mind that if an employeremployee relationship exists (regardless of what the relationship is called), one is not an independent contractor, and their earnings are generally not subject to self-employment tax. However, their earnings as an employee may be subject to FICA (Social Security tax and Medicare) and income tax withholding.

ESSENTIAL FILING AND FORMS Independent contractors: An independent contractor must complete Form W-9, Request for Taxpayer Identification Number and Certification. Employees: At the end of the year, you as the employer must prepare and file a W-2 form wage and tax statement to report to the IRS wages, tips and other compensation paid to an employee.

AVOID COMMON CONFUSION Many spas and salons hire independent contractors and then expect them to act as employees. That crosses the line and may be a violation of IRS laws. Do

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you have independent contractors who are acting as employees? To be safe, view the differences in detail on irs.gov and follow the guidelines. Also, consider the following statement on the IRS website: “Businesses must weigh all these factors when determining whether a worker is an employee or independent contractor. Some factors may indicate that the worker is an employee, while other factors indicate that the worker is an independent contractor. There is no ‘magic’ or set number of factors that ‘makes’ the worker an employee or an independent contractor, and no one factor stands alone in making this

determination. Also, factors that are relevant in one situation may not be relevant in another. The key is to look at the entire relationship, consider the degree or extent of the right to direct and control, and finally, to document each of the factors used in coming up with the determination.” Taking the following factors into consideration, only you can decide which path is right for your business. Whichever one you choose, it’s imperative to ensure you stay within the IRS guidelines to avoid putting your business at risk.

BUSINESS

-AND-

• You don’t have to guarantee an hourly wage.

CONS

• It’s less expensive to hire independent contractors, as you can eliminate the aforementioned costs associated with employees.

Employee Status Pros • When you hire an employee, you are making an investment in them as well as your business; therefore the selection process becomes more important in your attempt to hire the best candidate. • Having employees allows you to raise your performance standards and enforce them without crossing the line. You are able to effectively manage your team instead of them managing you. • In most cases, employees are more invested in their careers and committed to having a long-term relationship. Retention is also more likely with employees than contractors.

Employee Status Cons

Contractors vs. Employees

Independent Contractor Pros

PROS

There is no ‘magic’ or set number of factors that ‘makes’ the worker an employee or an independent contractor.

• You must guarantee a minimum wage to employees. That means that even if they’re not busy, they’re making money, even though you are not. It is essential to have traffic coming to your spa to justify the cost of employees. • It’s more expensive to hire employees than independent contractors. Employees are more costly due to the fact that the employer has to pay taxes, workers compensation, insurance and possibly unemployment.

Independent Contractor Cons • You can’t control contractors’ behavior, nor do you have the right to direct and control what work is accomplished and how the work is done. • You cannot give independent contractors an official schedule. They can come and go as they please. This makes your job as a leader difficult when you’re trying to cover all shifts. • You don’t have control over the contractors’ training, policies, procedures, uniforms, etc. • Independent contractors are free agents — they can work for you in the morning, go to another spa in the afternoon and have their own clients at home. This is a lot of co-mingling, which may not be a good thing.

Dori Soukup is an executive coach, author, professional speaker and the founder of InSPAration Management. She speaks at conventions all over the world and hosts public and private seminars. Her Spa BizTools and strategies have helped thousands of spa professionals experience exponential growth and profits. She can be reached at info@insparationmanagement.com.

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HOMETOWN HEROES In its first year of business, the BFF Miracle Body Buffer Electric Foam Roller claimed the New York Jets as fans, who use the BFF in their training facilities. Gaining momentum as a premier wellness and beauty device, the BFF is celebrating hometown success in Chicago. They sold a BFF to each player, coach and trainer on NBA team Chicago Bulls. Ergonomically designed, the BFF directs vibration and oscillation effectively throughout the body, resulting in several benefits.

402.499.9825 thebff.com

WEBSITE REFRESH

BusinessNews

Repêchage has launched two new websites, essential tools for the spas that carry their products and the clients that love them. Shop on repechage.com and find exclusive content on pro.repechage.com. All information about skin care education is available on both sites.

GRAND OPENING

COMMERCE, TRADE, INDUSTRY AND PEOPLE

Located in Torrance, Calif., Universal Companies’ Wellness & Beauty Learning Center will officially open in 2016 and offer a limited number of classes this fall. In addition to 8,500+ sq. ft. of multiple classroom space, it will feature two fully equipped treatment rooms for hands-on training.

december 2015

800.248.7546 repechage.com

The new center will provide a wide variety of educational opportunities and be a venue for after-hours special events for professionals to meet and network face-to-face with Universal Companies and its vendor partners.

800.558.5571 universalcompanies.com

A NEW WAVE OF SKIN CARE The beauty of sea and nature collide as RéjuvaSea®, a marinebased skin care line focusing on a scientific breakthrough, begins partnering with top spas and beauty professionals nationwide. With the announcement of their launch into the professional space, RéjuvaSea® will premiere 12 skin care SKUs. Featuring the super antioxidant RéjuvaPlankton®, the line increases hydration, improves clarity and repairs elasticity.

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To benefit businesses and consumers, an updated “Locate a Spa” feauture allows users to find a business near them that carries Repêchage.

800.763.0904 rejuvasea.com

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GUT HEALTH GUIDE

Learn the next generation of treatments to restore the body’s systems for optimal health and radiant skin…

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december 2015

GUT HEALTH GUIDE

december 2015

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GUT HEALTH GUIDE

Your

Personal Ecosystem An in-depth look at microbiomes and their effect on your client’s health by Rebecca Gadberry

As a kid, I loved singing “You’ll Never Walk Alone” from the Rodgers and Hammerstein musical “Carousel.” I never suspected this was a fact rather than a promise. Scientists recently announced that each of us is surrounded by a “particle cloud” teeming with microbes.1

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december 2015

GUT HEALTH GUIDE

acteria, viruses, yeast, fungi, dead cells and even “intestinal gas” remnants (known in scientific circles as “farticles”) float around each of us. Like Charlie Brown’s friend Pigpen, we move through life with our entire bodies in clouds. When we meet other organisms, our clouds mingle. When we breathe out, microbes in our nose and mouth escape into the cloud, then into our environment. Skin cells shed and drift around us, each cell host to thousands of microbes. That breeze we feel when we wave our hands is teeming with particles we can’t see. Every surface near us is covered with our microbial calling card, our bacterial signature in the world. Wherever we are — even if we’re only there for a few seconds — we leave telltale proof we were there. If we stick around for two hours, our cloud colonizes every surface in the room, even if we don’t touch anything. For most of us, our microbial cloud is as distinctive as our fingerprints. For estheticians this news can be shocking, as we’re taught to loathe all things microbial. In school, we spend weeks learning the most efficient, thorough methods to sanitize our instruments and protect our clients from infection. Safety and sanitation is at the heart of our education, and our licenses. We’re steeped in the fear of microbes before we ever begin touching and treating the skin. To learn that microbial cells outnumber human cells anywhere between 3-1 and 10-1 sounds like science fiction. Yet it’s true. But don’t panic, this a natural union, one that’s highly beneficial for all involved.

MEET THE MICROBIOME Each of us is home to about 1,000 different types of microbes ranging from common bacteria to viruses, yeast and fungi. More than 100 trillion of these microscopic bodies inhabit every hu-

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man adult. More importantly, each type of microbe has it’s own set of genes, yielding a hefty eight million microbial genes to our measly payload of 23,000 genes. This means that for every human gene we have, there’s about 35 non-human ones influencing how our body functions, how our skin looks, which foods we can easily digest, how we react and respond to our environment and even the way we think. Place the microbes and their genes in their

We’re steeped in the fear of microbes before we ever begin touching and treating the skin.

GUT HEALTH GUIDE

SKIN CARE VALUE Skin commensals fight off pathogenic (disease-causing) invaders, secrete peptides to stimulate our skin’s immune defenses, calm redness, soothe itching and help repair the skin’s barrier when necessary. Some of these good guys may also help lighten unwanted skin pigmentation and stimulate collagen to fill in wrinkles. This opens the possibility for anti-aging skin care ingredients that team up with the skin’s natural microbiome to lighten pigmentation, even skin tone, repair barrier damage and visibly smooth surface lines and deeper wrinkles 3,4. Also on the horizon is a new type of acne treatment utilizing P.acnes to avoid breakouts. While we’ve known for years that these anaerobic bacteria localize in pores to access a ready diet of the triglycerides that make up sebum, new genetic tests have uncovered some surprising data. One promising discovery comes from a team at UCLA who found different P. acnes strains live in the pores of acne patients than those with clear skin5. They believe the strain in clear skin may produce protective proteins to fend off acne-related strains, much like yogurt’s live bacteria help defend the gut. This research supports the value of a probiotic cream to block bad bacteria from invading the skin, preventing the development of pimples.

GUT-SKIN AXIS bodily niches — gut, mouth/sinuses, vagina and skin — and you have what scientists call the microbiome. Although the term was coined in 19882, the human microbiome has been the subject of hundreds of scientific studies just in the last five years. Our understanding of its contribution to our human ecosystem is just beginning. Ninety-nine percent of our microbiome positively affects our health and influences our core personality. Known as “commensals” for their propensity

to form micro-communities in various parts of the body, these good microbes not only provide the first line of defense against their hostile cronies, they also carry out functions our human cells can’t. Our gut commensals empower us to digest all types of carbohydrates, manufacture vitamins and other nutrients, balance energy intake and expenditure, assemble anti-inflammatory peptides and proteins to calm or distress us (including our skin) and train and monitor our immune systems.

The vast majority of our microbial ecosystem exists in our guts, with skin ranking a distant second for microbial populations. When certain types of bacteria or viruses become unbalanced, displaced or threatened (a condition known as “dysbiosis”), they can release chemicals that have been linked to headaches and high blood pressure, depression, autism, insomnia, obesity, inflammatory bowel disease, Type 2 diabetes, rheumatoid arthritis,

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december 2015

GUT HEALTH GUIDE

HAND SANITIZER:

YES OR NO?

When it comes to the skin’s microbiome, one of the most confusing issues is whether or not to use hand sanitizers. At the heart of the debate is concern about removing the microbes that offer protection from pathogens. Since hands are greatly exposed to pathogens, most experts agree that thorough cleansing is best, especially during cold and flu season. But for estheticians, sterility is vital.

SOME RESEARCHERS SUGGEST WE FEED OUR EXISTING BATCH OF MICROBES WITH PREBIOTICS TO BUILD A ROBUST MICROBIOME.

Should you use a hand sanitizer to maintain sterility? The primary antimicrobials in sanitizers, ethanol or isopropyl alcohol, kill bacteria but not their spores. If you’re applying sanitizer once an hour, as happens in a clinical setting, bacterial repopulation isn’t a problem. These antimicrobials need to be activated with water, so sanitizers with less than 70 percent alcohol and more water in the formula are preferable. For hand washing to be effective on its own, vigorously spread soap and hot water across every micro-inch of surface for the time it takes to sing “Happy Birthday” twice. This dislodges any microbes clinging to the hands’ surface.

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What’s the

bottom line?

For the average person, a thorough hand washing is ideal. Hand sanitizer is the next best thing – especially after touching something contaminated with pathogens. For estheticians, vigorous hand washing followed by sanitizer is more likely to deliver the sterility needed to protect clients during treatments.

allergies, certain types of cancer and a variety of immune system disorders, to name a few. Gut flora also impacts skin, as inflammatory chemicals released in the small intestine are picked up by the blood and transferred to skin tissues where they can contribute to inflammation in acne, rosacea, psoriasis and eczema. One such chemical is Substance P, a neuropeptide linked to the disease process in acne, the flare-up reaction in rosacea and the itching experienced with eczema. Small intestinal bacterial overgrowth, also known as SIBO, is much higher in those with acne and rosacea, so treating this condition with broad-spectrum live probiotics can improve both skin conditions.

GUT HEALTH GUIDE

FEEDING THE MICROBES While probiotics are now recognized for their role in supporting the gut’s flora, many scientists studying the microbiome aren’t as enthused. Eating storebought yogurt or downing a probiotic tablet doesn’t provide enough, if any, microbes to get the population of microbes back on track. Even the most varied blends of live probiotic microbes only release a dozen or so species out of a few billion microbes into the gut at one time. Some researchers suggest we feed our existing batch of microbes with prebiotics to build a robust microbiome. Prebiotics can be found mainly through fibrous complex carbohydrates and fermented foods. Fibrous carbs can be found in oats, onions, garlic, mushrooms, artichokes, kale, leeks, sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, asparagus, turnips, broccoli, radishes, jicama, mango, avocados, strawberries, apricots and popcorn. Fermented foods sources include sauerkraut, homemade pickles, miso, tempeh, kimchi and kombucha.

Now understanding that most microbes in the “particle cloud” are beneficial, think about all the good commensals we gather around us when we hug, treat and counsel our clients as well as the good commensals we share with them. When Friedrich Nietzsche, the German philosopher, wrote “That which doesn’t kill us makes us stronger,” he could have been talking about the microbiome.

REFERENCES:

1 – Meadow JF, Altrichter AE, Bateman AC, Stenson J, Brown G, Green JL, Bohannan BJM. (2015) Humans differ in their personal microbial cloud. PeerJ 3:e1258 dx.doi.org/10.7717/peerj.1258 2 – Eisen, J. (2015, April 8). What does the term microbiome mean? And where did it come from? A bit of a surprise.. Retrieved from microbe.net/2015/04/08/ what-does-the-term-microbiome-mean-andwhere-did-it-come-from-a-bit-of-a-surprise/ 3 – ProRenew Complex CLR™, INCI: Lactococcus ferment lysate. Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH. 4- Brightenyl™, INCI: Tri-hydroxy benzoic acid alpha glucoside, Induchem USA, Inc. 5 – Schmidt, E. (2013, February 28). New Study Could Explain Why Some People Get Zits and Others Don’t: Two Strains of Acne Bacteria Linked to Pimples, Another to Healthy Skin. UCLA Newsroom.

Rebecca

Gadberry

is the senior instructor and program director for UCLA Extension’s Cosmetic

Sciences

program. Gadberry is considered one of the U.S. skin care industry’s preeminent ingredient authorities. Join her online at skincareingredientexperts.com and check out her Facebook community, Skin Care Ingredient Experts.

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GUT HEALTH GUIDE

What is 84

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GUT HEALTH GUIDE

the Gut…

And why does it matter?

n a basic level, the gut’s literal definition is: “The digestive tract or a

by Amanda Clinton Winter

portion thereof, especially the intestine or stomach.” It is often used to refer to the gastrointestinal tract, a long tube starting at the mouth and ending at the anus, which is responsible for absorbing nutrients, housing bacteria and excreting waste. But the true impact of the gut extends far beyond the breakdown of food. The gut is said to be the body’s “second brain,” and for good reason! All the major neurotransmitters found in the brain — including serotonin, dopamine, glutamate, norepinephrine and nitric oxide — occur plentifully in the gut, which is why the gut is associated with emotions, such as instinct, courage, excitement, anxiety and fear.

SOURCES aad.org/stories-and-news/news-releases/ could-probiotics-be-the-next-big-thingin-acne-and-rosacea-treatments ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/ articles/PMC3038963 scientificamerican.

Skin connection

thefreedictionary.com/gut com/ article/gut-second-brain

In addition to influencing mood and energy levels, scientific research supports a

concepts of the spa

connection between gut health and skin

and skin care industry.

health, as the radiance of one’s complex-

Read on for gut guid-

ion is influenced by the health of their gut.

ance on probiotics,

This makes sense, as the skin is the body’s

the alkaline diet, colon

largest organ, and can serve as a barom-

hydrotherapy and in-

eter to monitor internal health. Hence, the

spired gut treatments

connections between gut, well-being and

— and how you can

skin tie together to form what is known as

apply this knowledge

the “gut-brain-skin” axis. Research dem-

to strengthen your cli-

onstrates that improved digestion — the

ent care in this special

result of improved gut health — may help

Gut Health Guide. Also

manage the symptoms of problematic skin

check out our probiotic

conditions, which can actually be exacer-

photo feature on page

bated by a distressed gut.

106 for a complete selec-

The following guide provides an in-

tion of probiotic based skin

depth examination of the gut’s link to

care to complete your back-

health, wellness and beauty, the core

bar and retail lineup!

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GUT HEALTH GUIDE

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Gut Warriors Using probiotics to promote beautiful skin

by Marc A. Ronert, M.D., Ph.D.

We know a healthy gut can lead to healthy skin, and probiotics are an important component of both! Probiotics are live bacteria that benefit the health of the digestive tract, which when compromised can cause excessive inflammation that affects the immune system. This may lead to

conditions such as irritable bowel syndrome (IBS), Crohn’s disease and allergies, to name a few. Probiotics are the good bacteria that help keep the gut healthy by creating a “barrier” that reduces inflammation and assists with the colonization of health-boosting microorganisms.

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GUT HEALTH GUIDE

nflammation of the gut can result from many factors, including stress and a high intake of processed food. Lack of dietary fiber can also slow digestion, making the bacteria in the gut unhealthy. This can lead to what is known as â€œleaky gut syndrome,â€? in which toxins are released into the bloodstream, causing inflammation throughout the body.

Targets Specific Conditions There is a link between inflammation of the gut and various skin conditions, as those prone to acne, rosacea and other skin ailments may experience flare-ups and worsening of the symptoms associated with these conditions due to gut issues. Probiotics have been shown to reduce inflammation internally, actually reducing bad bacteria that trigger these common skin conditions.

Acne Studies from Italy, Russia and Korea have found that probiotics from food or supplements used in conjunction with standard acne treatments may increase the rate of acne clearing and help patients better tolerate treatments with antibiotics1.

Rosacea Probiotic extracts used in conjunction with medication can reduce the redness seen in rosacea and also improve and strengthen the skin barrier to decrease stinging, burning and dryness.

Eczema Finnish researchers looked at pregnant women who took probiotic supplements (containing lactobacillus rham-

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nosus GG) for two to four weeks before giving birth, and also after delivery if they were breast-feeding, or added the bacteria to infant formula for at least six months. They found that the probiotics reduced the odds of eczema in babies who had strong family histories of the itchy skin condition until at least age two and possibly longer2.

Types of probiotics For years, mega-doses of antibiotics have been prescribed for skin conditions prone to inflammatory symptoms in an effort to reduce bacteria levels.

PROBIOTICS HAVE BEEN SHOWN TO REDUCE INFLAMMATION INTERNALLY.

GUT HEALTH GUIDE

• Lactobacillus is the most common probiotic. It can be found naturally in yogurt and other fermented foods. Different strains can help with inflammation of the intestines and diarrhea as well as help those who are lactose intolerant.

• L. Acidophilus provides antibacterial and anti-fungal benefits and is shown to treat scaly skin and rashes accompanied by inflammation. It may be found in yogurt, soy and daily supplement form.

• B. Longum, like L. Acidophilus, is one of the most common types of bacteria found in the digestive tract. It helps maintain the integrity of the gut wall and is a particularly active scavenger of toxins. • Bifidobacterium can also be found in some dairy products and may help to ease the symptoms of irritable bowel syndrome.

However, probiotics (the opposite of antibiotics) have been shown to increase healthy bacteria levels, decrease lipopolysaccharides, improve intestinal barrier function and reduce inflammation. When used in conjunction with antibiotics, probiotics may improve results and reduce some of the side effects caused by antibiotics alone. The following probiotics offer some of the most promising benefits in reducing inflammatory skin conditions:

These “good” bacteria have been shown to act as a natural protective shield against bad bacteria and parasites, which are triggers for acne and rosacea. The probiotic provokes an immune reaction to counter the threat and antimicrobial properties can kill bad bacteria. Ongoing research is being done to determine which probiotics are most beneficial in this fight. Probiotics also offer a calming effect; they calm parts of the cell that may react to the presence of bad bacteria, especially the type that promote acne and rosacea.

Health From the Inside Out While limiting intake of simple carbohydrates and other foods may help reduce inflammatory conditions, a daily dose of probiotics is key for the restoration of

healthy bacteria in the digestive tract. Many oral supplements are also available, but some caplet forms are destroyed by acid in the stomach before they ever reach the intestines. Delivery of these actives is key to their efficacy. Reaching the intestines alive is the only way to ensure that the true benefits of probiotics are delivered.

Topical Use In addition to the dietary benefits of probiotics, ongoing studies are showing that when applied topically, they may also improve and prevent signs of aging due to the following benefits3: Nutritive and protective effect against environmental influences. Reduces enzymes that trigger inflammation and the degradation of collagen and elastin due to UV exposure. Relaxing, stress reducing effect. UV exposure and stress trigger a nerve growth factor (NGF). Probiotics show promise in calming inflammation triggered by NGF and help to rebalance stressed skin.

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GUT HEALTH GUIDE

Stabilization of the immune system. UV-induced immunosuppression unbalances immunological protection of the skin. Probiotics have been shown to counteract interleukin, which is responsible for immunosuppression, thus counteracting imbalances of the immune system. The topical application of probiotics has been shown to reduce irritation and redness in skin while protecting it against environmental damage, improving keratinocyte cohesion and increasing the production of antimicrobial peptides, which induce skin renewal and accelerate skin barrier recovery. In vivo tests show a probiotic lactic acid containing cytoplasm and cell wall fragments increase the functionality of the skin cell. This in turn does the following: • Fortifies the skin’s natural barrier • Fortifies the construction and preservation of the skin • Reawakens the appearance of the skin • Relaunches the skin’s self-regeneration potential

Successful Delivery The challenge now is to understand how we can stabilize probiotics in skin care. Lysates (cell fragments), which are not actual live organisms, have shown some possibility in topical products as well, although more research must be conducted to verify long-term efficacy. 90

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There are two important questions we must answer that currently present hurdles for probiotics and skin care:

1. Are there more advantages from the live version of probiotics rather than lysates? 2. Is it possible to formulate skin care products with live organisms and retain their efficacy? Regardless of these unanswered questions, one thing is certain: With all of the new technologically advanced delivery systems available today, the use of probiotics in skin care is destined for continued growth.

References 1. Nole, K., Yim, E., & Keri, J. (n.d.). Probiotics and prebiotics in dermatology. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 814-821. 2. Rautava, S., Kainonen, E., Salminen, S., & Isolauri, E. (n.d.). Maternal probiotic supplementation during pregnancy and breast-feeding reduces the risk of eczema in the infant. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology, 1355-1360. 3. Nierenberg, C. (2014, June 24). Probiotics Hold Promise for 4 Skin Conditions. Retrieved from livescience. com/46502-probiotics-hold-promise-skin-conditions.html 4. American Academy of Dermatology. (2014) Could probiotics be the next big thing in acne and rosacea treatments? [News release] Retrieved from .aad.org/ stories-and-news/news-releases/could-probiotics-bethe-next-big-thing-in-acne-and-rosacea-treatments.

Active types of probiotics can be attained through many food sources. The highest and most active content of probiotics is found in yogurt with live active cultures or kefir (a fermented milk drink). Other good sources include:

- Miso soup - Sauerkraut - Kombucha tea

Marc A. Ronert, M.D., Ph.D., is president and clinical director of IMAGE Skincare. He is a European board certified plastic, reconstructive and aesthetic surgeon and a diplomat of the European Board of Plastic, Reconstructive and Aesthetic Surgeons. Dr. Ronert is also the founder and president of the Care for Skin Foundation, which supports people in need of reconstructive surgery in underdeveloped regions of the world.

toxin flush out Pros and Cons of

Colon Hydrotherapy BY Raquel Levy

practice that likely began in ancient Egypt, colon hydrotherapy (also known as colonics, colon cleansing and colon irrigation)

has evolved over thousands of years. Believed to be a gift from the gods, it was then practiced in a river using a hollow reed to induce flowing water into the rectum. Ancient Babylonian, Hindu and Roman writings also mention the use of enemas and Greek physician Hippocrates was recorded as using it for fever therapy. Today, colon hydrotherapy has come a long way from sticks and river water. The practice is endorsed by a slew of celebrities including Jennifer Aniston, Madonna, Leonardo DiCaprio, Janet Jackson, Sylvester Stallone and dozens more. Its implementation in spas and wellness centers has garnered loyal followers, as clients claim to feel lighter, more energized and relieved of constipation. Other named benefits include a clear complexion, faster metabolism and improved immune system, among others.

GUT HEALTH GUIDE

ESSENTIAL TRAINING Unlike enemas, colon hydrotherapy utilizes approximately 60 liters of water to cleanse the length of the colon, is odorless and must be performed by a trained professional. The International Association for Colon Hydrotherapy (I-ACT) establishes guidelines for the practice as well as certification and training programs. Students complete at least 100 hours of training, including how to evaluate intake forms, screen for complications, sanitize equipment and perform the treatment.

PROTOCOL After clients empty their bladder and change into a robe, a low-pressure pump flushes water through the colon via a small tube. Therapists are advised to use a covering to ensure the client’s dignity. The professional adjusts the volume and temperature of the water as necessary and the protocol may be repeated several times in a session lasting up to one hour. At C o ntour Day S pa in For t Lauderdale, Fla., a Colon Cleansing Regimen (35-60 minutes, $99) begins with a steam or sauna to prompt the release of toxins through sweat. After the completion of a health history form, or by a physician’s prescription, treatment can begin. Deborah Lewark, colon therapist who has completed I-ACT’s advanced level of training, says clients can return to the steam room after treatment, but should stay close to the bathroom for 20 minutes as their body releases any excess water.

PURPOSE OF COLONICS Lewark says colonics are not a necessity for most people, rather it enhances the function of the colon. “You eliminate toxins through your skin, colon, lungs and kidneys naturally,” Lewark explains. “Cleaning your colon reduces the burden on these organs, 92

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helping them work more efficiently. A dysfunctional digestive system pulls energy from other systems, which is why people with constipation may feel lethargic.” Some clients also report a clearer complexion after colonics and attribute it to releasing less toxins through the skin. Colon irrigation may be prescribed in preparation for a colonoscopy. Danbury Hospital in Connecticut offers colonics as an alternative to prescribed laxatives, especially for the elderly who are more prone to electrolyte abnormalities and kidney damage from the laxative cleansing process. A.R. Hoenninger, Ph.D., executive director of I-ACT, says doctors may also prescribe a colonic to restore

healthy bowel activity. “The colon is a muscle,” he explains. “By exercising it through colon hydrotherapy the muscle may regain its tone and return to normal bowel functioning.” Some clients request colonics for constipation relief or as part of a detox program. “Once clients know the feeling of a clean colon, they know when something isn’t right and come in for a treatment,” Lewark adds.

PROPER PREPARATION For spas, safety is crucial. The use of FDA-approved equipment, disposable speculums and hoses ensures a safe, clean environment for each client. At Contour Day Spa, the equipment and

GUT HEALTH GUIDE

treatment rooms are cleaned and sanitized before and after each colonic. For clients, it’s important to eat only a light meal the day of, and nothing two hours prior to the treatment. If they can prepare a couple of days before, fruits, juice and plenty of water reduce the chance of dehydration.

PRECAUTIONS Though popular as an alternative medicine, many doctors view colon hydrotherapy with skepticism. If performed incorrectly or on a contraindicated client, a colonic can cause cramping, bloating, vomiting and dehydration. It may also lead to bowel perforations, increase the risk of infections and affect

the body’s natural electrolyte balance. Some practitioners prepare the water with herbs, caffeine or probiotics, but that is not recommended for most clients. “Any therapist who chooses to do that must use extreme caution and do so only under the supervision of physician,” says Hoenninger. “All I-ACT recommends is warm, temperature-controlled and filtered water.” Hoenninger also cautions against making claims such as weight loss, as colon hydrotherapy is not FDAapproved as a slimming treatment.

CONTRAINDICATIONS

• Encourages normal bowel functioning • Helps organs work more efficiently • Clients report feeling lighter, more energized

CONS • Can cause cramping, bloating and vomiting • Can lead to dehydration • If performed incorrectly, may lead to bowel perforations • Can increase the risk of infection • May affect body’s natural electrolyte balance.

• Recent surgery or pregnancy • Heart and kidney disease • Severe hypertension or anemia • Diverticulitis or ulcerative colitis • Severe hemorrhoids or anal fissures • Rectal or abdominal tumors • Epilepsy or psychoses • Dialysis or blood thinners

Sources

PROS

Raquel Levy is the editorial associate at Les

altmd.com/Articles/ History-of-Colon-Hydrotherapy i-act.org/Resources/Danbury%20Hospital.pdf i-act.org/Index.html mayoclinic.org/healthy-lifestyle/ consumer-health/expert-answers/ colon-cleansing/faq-20058435

Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She holds a bachelor’s degree in Communications with an emphasis

• Can be gentler on the body than prescribed laxatives • Relieves constipation

in writing and editing. Levy has been a lifestyle and feature writer for more than five years. Contact her at raquel@lneonline.com.

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GUT HEALTH GUIDE

ACIDIC

ALKALINE Enhancing your client’s skin treatments with the pH diet by Raquel Levy

he old saying “beauty is more than skin deep” is especially true when it comes to the connection between what we consume and the health of our skin. Though your treatments make a lasting change in your client’s appearance, some health solutions lie beyond the surface. Understanding how to treat from within sets you apart from estheticians who only treat skin issues from the outside. Our skin is a reflection of our overall health. When the body detec ts danger such as infections, diseases or wounds, acute inflammation is its natural defense mechanism.

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As an esthetician, you’ve seen this natural healing process administering a chemical peel: slight inflammation occurs as the body is healing and rejuvenation begins. However, when the body senses a reason to be on alert 24-7, chronic inflammation is ongoing and detrimental to the skin and body. Internally, it has been shown to cause diabetes, heart disease, cancer and even Alzheimer’s disease. When the skin is affected, chronic inflammation can cause enlarged pores, puffiness, redness, swelling, blotchiness, rosacea and acne. What’s more, it’s been shown to rapidly increase the aging process with fine lines and wrinkles, giving your clients all the more reason to supplement their skin care routine with a plan that will transform their complexion.

GUT HEALTH GUIDE

As with many problems, treatment for chronic inflammation begins in the gut—more specifically with the foods we consume. The body’s pH level, optimal at 7.35-7.45, is naturally regulated through respiration, urination and mineral depletion. However, an excessive intake of acid-inducing foods affects the body’s ability to regulate pH levels and leads to inflammation in the gut. Replacing acidic foods with alkaline-forming repairs and maintains a proper pH, reduces inflammation, boosts the immune system and im-

proves skin health. If your client’s skin has declined due to chronic inflammation, suggesting smarter eating choices may be the key to their optimal skin health. An alkaline diet is the perfect complement to your treatments. Alkaline diet guidelines suggest an 80/20 plan, with 80 percent of food consumption being alkalizing foods and 20 percent acidic. However, if your client is concerned by a drastic change, a 60/40 plan will help maintain, but not correct, a healthy pH balance.

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY AGENTS • Omega 3 • Avocado • Turmeric • Ginger • Asparagus

• Almonds • Sprouted Grains • Quinoa • Fruits & Veggies • Soy Products

INFLAMMATORY TRIGGERS • Sugar and Sugar Substitutes • Caffeine • Alcoholic Drinks • Red and Processed Meat • Dairy

When you recommend an alkaline diet to your clients, it’s important to note t hey mus t f ind c alcium substitutes or not eliminate dair y completely. Choosing a balanced plan will prevent them from becoming over whelmed, making them more likely to stick to their chosen program. Exercise is also recommended to lower inflammation, at least 30

• Wheat • Chocolate • Vinegar • Carbonated Drinks • Trans-Fats

45 minutes of aerobic exercise five times a week. At the “gut” of the problem is the health of the digestive tract, as it is the key to healthy skin and a thriving body. With knowledge of the inner workings of your client’s body as well as how to best treat their skin, you can offer unparalleled service and keep them coming back to you when they see a renewed complexion.

SOURCES: nutritionj.com/content/8/1/41/abstract ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3195546/ health.usnews.com/best-diet/acid-alkaline-diet nhs.uk/livewell/loseweight/pages/top-10-mostpopular-diets-review.aspx#alkaline-diet dermaharmony.com/rosacea/ alkalinedietandrosacea greatist.com/eat/what-is-the-alkaline-diet

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From the

Inside Out

Top Treatments to Nurture the Gut By Caroline Canetti

While pampering and relaxation are staples of the spa experience, underneath it all the spa industry is a wellness industry. This is why more spas are adding treatments, programs and nutritional counseling related to gut health â€” because a healthy gut is a large part of ensuring overall health and well-being.

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Colonics

Spas must be aware that strict requirements apply for those who administer colon hydrotherapy and operate devices.

One way to ensure a healthy gut is to flush out the pipes, so to speak, through colonic irrigation. Colonics (a.k.a. colon therapy, colon hydrotherapy, colon therapy, colon irrigation and colon cleansing) involve a therapist or technician inserting a tube in the rectum of the client to insert water that then flushes out the toxins. Love

Thyself

Day

Spa

treatments geared toward gut health, including two colon cleansers: Colon Hydrotherapy ($85 for one session, $430 for a series of six, or $985 for a series of 15) and Colon Implants (60 minutes, $35 or a series of five for $100). The first colonic appointment includes a 30-minute consultation, 60-minute treatment and approximately 30 minutes for post-treatment instructions and recommendations.

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Richardson, Texas, offers a variety of

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GUT HEALTH GUIDE

The Colon Implant service works as a post-Colon Hydrotherapy add-on. “A colonic implant is the infusion of a small amount of concentrated liquid solution into the colon through the rectum, retained for a certain amount of time, for the purpose of direct absorption through the colon, bringing greater and more immediate benefits, rather than the fluid having to travel the entire digestive tract first,” explains owner Lisa Weeks. This liquid is typically made up of any of the following or combinations thereof: probiotics, wheatgrass, herbal teas, therapeutic essential oils, aloe vera, or other nutritive components. “Some of the benefits of a colonic implant is that it soothes the mucosal lining (especially if irritated), gives direct nourishment to the colon and stimulates the liver and gallbladder to produce bile, which further cleanses the digestive tract,” adds Weeks. Spas must be aware that strict requirements apply for those who administer colon hydrotherapy and operate devices. * See “Toxin Flush Out” on page 91 for more information on colon hydrotherapy and requirements for facilities and practitioners.

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Infrared Sauna Therapy

GUT HEALTH GUIDE

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december 2015

Infrared sauna therapy differs greatly

Firm Body Evolution (FBE) in

from a traditional sauna, which simply

West Hollywood, Calif., offers infra-

heats up the body. Infrared, on the

red sauna sessions to newcomers

other hand, stimulates the immune

for $99 for one-week unlimited. The

system, thereby working on the lym-

regular weekly price is $200, one ses-

phatic system and penetrating the

sion is $50 and a 10-pack costs $390.

tissues more deeply. “Not all infrared

Each session is 30 minutes. “Infrared

systems are the same as most only

penetrates and helps detox the gut

giving one single spectrum. The best

on a cellular level. This ‘interior’ heat

type of sauna for therapeutic use is

increases oxygen flow to the gut,

infrared sauna that offers three spec-

helping it to heal and function bet-

trum levels (i.e., near, mid and far

ter,” says Jourdan Rystrom, manager,

infrared),” says Weeks, who offers a

director and vice president of FBE.

30-minute Infrared Heat Therapy session for $45 or a series of 10 for $425.

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GUT HEALTH GUIDE

Abdominal Massage Abdominal massage serves a variety

Resplendent Day Spa in Long Beach,

if we are working for all concerns us-

of purposes, so it’s key to under-

Calif., offers the Arvigo Techniques

ing the Arvigo techniques. Dr. Arvigo,

stand why the client is interested in

of Maya Abdominal Therapy (75 min-

in her advanced class, added more

this service before beginning, as this

utes, $175 for first visit, $135 for fol-

layers to this therapy, especially for

determines the pressure and types of

low-up visits), which is modeled after

digestion along with a specific diet.”

strokes you should deliver.

Dr. Rosita Arvigo’s technique based

“For example,” explains Weeks,

on Mayan medicine. While it’s pri-

“one purpose could be to move

mary use is for reproductive, uterine

lymph from the area, so therefore, a

and ovarian health, it’s also good for

lighter touch and specific directional

digestion.

movement toward the lymph nodes.

“We are working the upper abdo-

Or it could be done to help break up

men for the digestion specifically,”

a hardened mass in the colon, thus,

explains owner Yvonne Hernandez.

a deeper massage into the muscles.

“The whole abdomen is massaged as

One must complete advanced training in Arvigo techniques to become a Certified Arvigo Practitioner (CAP).

Or it can be done as part of a detox program, purely to enhance overall waste removal in the body.” In all cases, she adds, the therapist should follow the direction of the colon, so as not to move either waste or gas backwards to interfere with normal bodily functioning. Love Thyself’s Abdominal Massage is a 30-minute add on for $35, but it’s also included in the spa’s Abdominal Packs (30-minute minimum, but one to two hours ideally). This costs $35 for one session or $150 for a series of five. The Abdominal Pack includes abdominal massage, mini-reflexology and pure medicinal essential oils (Castor Oil Abdominal Pack, Therapeutic Mud Pack and Detoxifying Herbal Pack).

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Detox Wraps Two Bunch Palms Spa Resort in Desert Hot Springs, Calif., offers a Wrap/Massage Reboot (60 minutes for $165, 90 minutes for $209), which includes dry brushing to stimulate the lymph system and application of a castor oil pad to the abdomen before the client is cocooned in a warm wrap and treated to a nurturing scalp and foot massage. “The castor oil has substances that help to clean the internal organs. In terms of ‘gut health,’ it calms and soothes nerves, reduces nerve inflammation, cleanses the liver and colon, releases constipation because it’s a strong laxative, but it also helps with mental stress, arthritis and relieves sore muscles,” says lead massage therapist Matthew Stramoski.

Nutritional Counseling Gut health and proper nutrition go hand-in-hand, which is why many spa owners are also offering nutritional counseling, classes and one-off workshops. “Because nutrition is so key to overall health, as well as the results of any and all services that we perform, along with the fact that most people either totally don’t know how, perhaps are not motivated, or could use some additional help in nutrition and in the practice

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of preparing fresh living/plant-based foods, I wholeheartedly feel that every spa should have a kitchen, classroom and holistic nutritional expert in place for hands-on teaching and counseling, to encourage wellness in both clients and staff,” says Weeks. Among Weeks’ offerings at Love Thyself Day Spa are free 10-minute Recipe Demos and 60 to 90-minute Healthy Food Prep Classes for vegan and raw cuisine by the spa chef. Prices vary depending on the number of people in each class. Additionally, for clients receiving certain spa packages, and depending upon length, they include either Healthy & Delicious Refreshments or a Healthy & Delicious Meal, both prepared by the spa chef. This pricing is included in the spa package. Lastly, Holistic Nutritional Counseling (60 minutes, $85) includes customized support for individuals or families. Some basic nutritional counseling is also provided for those enrolled in a wellness plan or detox

If you plan to offer nutritional counseling services at your spa, partner with professionals who have a degree or certificate in nutrition or holistic nutritional counseling.

series.

Acupuncture and Meditation SenSpa in San Francisco, Calif., em-

away advice as well (such as sitting

ploys a naturopathic and Chinese

and focusing on their breath for five

medical doctor to examine and treat

to 15 minutes in the morning). It is

clients with “leaky guts” via the use

not offered as a stand-alone service.

of acupuncture and even meditation.

“Meditation helps to relax the muscles, which can cause backup,”

For

instance,

meditation

has

says Spa Director Jenean Laroche.

helped their clients with thyroid dis-

“Our naturopathic doctor does have

ease because constipation is a prob-

training and an interest in pelvic pain

lem for those with thyroid problems.

syndromes, which are often tied to

SenSpa’s wellness experts, naturo-

leaky gut. Our doctor also advises

path doctor and acupuncturist use

thyroid clients to go gluten-free,

meditation as a tool in their sessions

which also helps in the gut area and

(like a guided meditation during the

eases the symptoms. As a massage

service) and recommend it as take-

therapist, she treats the abdominal

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and pelvis muscles to help with those syndromes.” Acupuncture also plays a big role in the treatment of gut health. “Acupuncture reduces inflammation of the gastrointestinal tract (GI) tract, breaking the cycle of inflammation and increased permeability. It also increases stomach acid secretions, helps to break down food before it enters the small intestine and increases digestive function, which reduces the time that toxins can enter the bloodstream,” explains SenSpa’s acupuncture and Ayurveda practitioner Gayatri Bhatnagar. The spa offers an 80-minute acupuncture session for $165 for first-time clients and $115 for all subsequent sessions. Acupuncture is also known to reduce abdominal pain, bloating and intestinal inflammation, increase gastrointestinal strength, stop chronic diarrhea, or increase bowel movements in the case of chronic constipation. “It’s highly effective in treating most digestive disorders including: irritable bowel syndrome, Crohn’s Disease, ulcerative colitis, food allergies and sensitivities, chronic constipation/diarrhea, ulcers, heartburn, GERD (gastroesophageal reflux disease), lactose intolerance and more,” adds Bhatnagar.

Acupuncture sessions must be performed by certified acupuncture practitioners. Practitioners who provide mediation guidance should be trained and certified in meditation instruction.

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Some spas have taken gut health one step further, incorporating gut treatments into other wellness programs. At La Casa Spa and Wellness Center, owner Jane Goldberg, Ph.D., a licensed psychologist and certified psychoanalyst, explains their Day of Detox (3.5 hours, $245) offering, which includes a colonic, massage and floatation experience. “We have a standard form that clients fill out when they come in for a colonic,” Goldberg says. “The colon therapist will ask the client about bowel functioning. Throughout the colonic the therapist gives feedback on what she is seeing and what it means.” Clients at La Casa Spa maintain results through cleansing products and probiotics, also sold at the spa.

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At The Hippocrates Health Institute of Hawaii, The Life Transformation Program incorporates elements of a gut health program. Prices vary because each program is completely customized and accomodation levels are distinct to each client. Brian Clement, Ph.D., L.N., explains how gut health comes into play in their health assessment in customizing each guest’s health and longevity enhancing program. “One of the most critical aspects is the maintenance and increase of healthy bacteria in the gut since two thirds of our body is bacteria and the immune system is generated for this intestinal flora. It is pinnacle to make sure that homeostasis and vitality reigns… application of certain foods and pre- and probiotic supplement has proven to be helpful in establishing the necessary balance.”

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Essential Formulas Dr. Ohhira’s Probiotic Lavender Moisturizer & Dr. Ohhira’s Probiotic Kampuku Beauty Bar essentialformulas.com Thalgo Slim Biotic Digestive Comfort thalgousa.com

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Epicuren Discovery Acidophilus Probiotic Facial Cream epicuren.com

Rhonda Allison Milk Plus Enriched Probiotic Cleanser rhondaallison.com

Vital Assist SkinCare Prep Probiotic Enzyme Exfoliator & Cleanse + Stimulate Daily Probiotic Cleanser vitalassist.com Le Mieux Skin Clarifying Pad Solution lemieuxcosmetics.com

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Urban Moonshine Organic Chamomile Digestive Bitters Refillable Herbal Travel Spray & Organic Original Digestive Bitters urbanmoonshine.com

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Spice

it up! Ginger The Topical and Digestive Virtues of

by Amanda Clinton Winter

inger, a flavorful, intense spice prominent in Asian cuisine, is a flowering plant originating in China. A member of the Zingiberaceae family, it is closely related to turmeric, cardamon and galangal. Packed with nutrients and bioactive compounds that have powerful benefits for body and brain, ginger is among the healthiest spices on the planet. It contains 40 antioxidant compounds, in addition to potent anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. With so much going for it, ginger boasts a strong reputation as a healer and has a long running history of applications for beauty and wellness purposes, making it a great ingredient to include in your skin care and body treatments!

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SPICE IT UP!

Topical

Beauty Boost Fades scars With so much going for it, ginger boasts a strong reputation as a healer and has a long running history of applications for beauty and wellness purposes.

The healing properties of ginger are derived from its strong nutritional composition. It is rich in potassium, magnesium, copper, manganese and B vitamins, all of which are essential to maintaining healthy skin. Gingerol is the main bioactive compound in ginger, with amazing antiinflammatory and antioxidant effects. These elements combine to deliver the following benefits:

Sensational Skin Ginger’s high antioxidant content and anti-inflammatory properties prevent free radical damage and work to even skin tone and boost elasticity, all factors in preserving a youthful appearance. |

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By stimulating circulation and removing toxins, ginger enables better delivery of nutrients to skin for a rejuvenating effect.

Clears acne A powerful antiseptic and cleansing agent, it helps keep skin clean and smooth. It kills acne-causing bacteria to minimize acne formation.

Fights inflammatory

Fights aging

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conditions Gingerol’s inflammation fighting effects make it a potentially beneficial tool for addressing various inflammatory-related skin conditions such as psoriasis, dermatitis and rosacea.

The toning and antioxidant properties in ginger can reduce the appearance of hypopigmented scars, which are white or much lighter than one’s natural skin tone. Ginger can work directly on the damaged skin cells, comprising the hypopigmented scar and stimulating the melanocytes to produce adequate melanin. As a result, the natural color of the skin comes back and the white scars disappear gradually.

Body Therapy The topical superpowers of ginger even extend beyond beautiful skin. This wonder herb can be used externally to treat abdominal cramps, joint stiffness, skin burns and inflammations, making ginger-based products a valuable element to incorporate into body treatments. Consider the following possibilities: • Ginger compresses can be used to address everything from gout, headaches, menstrual cramps, muscular stiffness and aches, sinus congestion, spinal pain, stomach cramps and swollen glands. • Ginger essential oil can help alleviate arthritis symptoms, as well as joint and spinal problems. It improves circulation and blood flow, making it the perfect

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SPICE IT UP!

The His and Hers Signature Treatments from Spicers Tamarind Retreat in Queensland, Australia encompass ginger’s core therapeutic elements: Glace Ginger Sugar Smoother for Her:  A luxurious skin warm-

stomach, such as gastritis and other infections caused by Helicobacter pylori, a common type of bacteria that causes infection in the stomach.

ing spa ritual to revitalize skin to silky smoothness with the tantalizing benefits of glace ginger. This sensory spa ritual begins with a deeply exfoliating body scrub with

ingredient for a treatment targeted to relieving tired, achy muscles. • Ginger’s reputation as a powerful aphrodisiac makes it a great ingredient to incorporate into couples’ therapies.

Gut Goodness In addition to the topical treasures of this spicy wonder, the purported ingestible benefits of ginger to the gut are abundant. Taken orally, ginger helps with both digestion and relief of pain or discomfort in the gut.

• Ulcer prevention: Ginger has the ability to neutralize the secretion of gastric acids, which could possibly cause ulcers in the stomach.

organic cane sugar, pure ginger, lemongrass and mint layered in a nourishing blend of omega oils and vitamin E. Once skin is rejuvenated to youthful smoothness,

• Irritation: The phenolic compounds in ginger are known to help relieve gastrointestinal irritation.

clients relax into a nutrient rich

• Nausea: Everything from motion sickness to chemotherapy side effects may be alleviated with ginger.

Total Time Out for Him: A deep

hydration body massage to deeply nourish and melt away tension.

rhythmic pressure massage with a signature revitalizing oil blend of warming eucalyptus, lemon-

• Menstrual relief: Ginger, ingested in the form of tea, is a known remedy for painful periods.

grass, peppermint, ginger and black pepper combined with a tailored back, neck, shoulder and scalp massage sequence gives maximum tension relieving results.

Digestion Ginger provides protection to the digestive system by increasing the pH of gastric acids and decreasing the level of acidity in the stomach. The increased pH of gastric acids reduces the amount and rate of gastric secretion and increases the activity of digestive enzymes, thus helping digestion and speeding the emptying of the stomach. This is also beneficial for indigestion and related stomach discomfort, described below:

Pain and discomfort aid • Infection relief: The anti-bacterial properties of ginger can help provide relief from bacterial infections of the

Complete your gut related services by offering your clients a serving of ginger tea to provide benefits from the inside out. Recommend that clients with gut health struggles incorporate supplements, tea or fresh ginger into their regular diets to reap the digestive perks.

Grounding reflexology on the feet and purifying facial massage all finished with a hot facial compress will guarantee that much needed ‘Time Out’. 1.5 hrs, $195 per person

SOURCES livestrong.com/article/540575-ginger-root-extracts-benefits-for-the-skin

Amanda Clinton Winter is the managing edi-

medicalnewstoday.com/articles/265990.php

tor of Les Nouvelles Esthétiques & Spa. She has

ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK92775 ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4230973 webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-961-ginger.aspx?activeingredientid=961&activ eingredientname=ginger

a bachelor’s degree in English literature and psychology from Wheaton College in Norton, Mass., and a master’s degree in public relations from the University of Miami. Contact her at amanda@ LNEONLINE.com.

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SUSTAIN & GAIN Greenify Your Spa, Reduce Costs and Help the Planet by Paul Schmidt

o matter what you think about the connections between personal and planetary vitality, at a core level, sustainability in spas just makes sense. For many spas the basic idea that everything is interconnected is already woven into the fabric of their brand through references to “holistic” treatments or statements like “for the betterment of body, mind and spirit.” Many clients seek out spa experiences to settle what feels out of balance or disjointed in their bodies and find that their emotional, psychological and even spiritual “selves” benefit too.

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SUSTAIN & GAIN

But sending guests, relaxed and happy, out into a world with polluted air and water and crowded confusion seems shortsighted somehow, doesn’t it? If your spa is really about supporting wholeness and vitality for your guests, it’s not a stretch then to find that this mission is only enhanced by environmental and social responsibility as well. There are many simple, cost effective ways to get more up to speed with your business’ sustainability program. Let’s break it down from three perspectives.

ECO-GREENING For most of us, the core of greening lies in respecting the environment and bringing conscious care to the ways in which our businesses impact our finite natural resources like energy and water. Paying attention to the impact your business has on the environment is becoming the new status quo. Just like well-being isn’t something your guests just “do” and check off a list, neither is your environmental responsibility. It’s an ongoing pursuit to continually find new ways to improve your carbon and social footprint. If you’re not already utilizing energy efficient lighting and low flow plumbing fixtures, start there.

Look at your spa’s goal to leave guests relaxed, revitalized and feeling well and ask yourself if your employees have the same experience.

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While your guests won’t always say it to you directly, many of them notice if you’re not employing these accessible cost saving strategies and have a hard time believing you’re actually committed to anything green. “We no longer print spa menus for guests to take home, as most were ending up in trash or recycling cans,” says Cassandra Brookins, manager at SpaBlue at Del Mar in Del Mar, Calif. “Instead we have menu books available at the front desk for guests to browse and we direct them to our website to look over at home.” At SpaBlue, they have also removed the waterfall feature at their front entrance and replaced it with a plant garden. Unless you’re creating a new facility, you might think it’s too expensive to utilize green building strategies. In

the case of reducing the airborne toxic impact of your spa through VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds found in paints, varnishes and finishes), this is not the case. When giving your spa a face lift with a fresh coat of paint, be sure to ask your paint supplier about eco options and use a non-VOC, waterbased product.

SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY On the heels of eco-greening and at the leading edge of the movement is the idea that all of us are at our best when we are supported by our families, friends, coworkers and communities. Bringing conscious care to creating a workplace experience that nurtures

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SUSTAIN & GAIN

For most of us, the core of greening lies in respecting the environment and bringing conscious care to the ways in which our businesses impact our finite natural resources like energy and water.

your staff taps into a wellspring of energy that only fuels your spa’s mission and brings more value to your guests and local community.

STAFF CARE Look at your spa’s goal to leave guests relaxed, revitalized and feeling well, and ask yourself if your employees have the same experience. Do they come to work and start a shift anticipating hours of purposeful, fun work that leaves them satisfied and fulfilled on all levels? Do they share enthusiastically and genuinely with guests and take pride in their healing role? Do they enjoy their coworkers and take time to do things that support the “back of the house” energy and experience?

Don’t sell your staff short. There are plenty of spas out there with incredible vitality, positive teamwork and passion for profound guest service emanating from their employees. Foster open channels of communication and seek input and ideas from all levels of your staff. Listen and take action on their best ideas. It’s not just how much money a therapist earns per treatment that matters to them. It’s also the balance of how many treatments they do vs. how many hours they spend at work not doing treatments that really fuels their satisfaction. It takes a creative scheduling policy to go along with your compensation plan to keep your team motivated and positive. At Miraval Resort and Spa in Tucson, Ariz., communication with staff is supported with technology through the

use of Hot Schedules, an app that logs and tracks shift swapping, making flexible scheduling less of an administrative burden. They also have a private Facebook page to facilitate discussions and address staff issues immediately, which prevents problems from festering between difficult to schedule staff meetings. “Our staff Facebook page has really helped everyone stay connected on important conversations,” says Miraval director Grant Bruce. “This way we avoid the pitfalls of the rumor mill and telephone game phenomenon that can arise so easily with a staff of talented and passionate people.”

COMMUNITY INVOLVEMENT As discussed in “Make the Connection,” in this year’s June edition, spas everywhere are seeing that actively giving back to their communities brings positive dividends to their social and economic “bank accounts” and, depending on the nature of the cause, the ecological one as well. LNEonline.com

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Often the “investment” involved in partnering with a community event is mostly measured in volunteer time, making this a highly cost-effective way to boost team morale, generate positive brand impressions and make a measurable difference in your community all at the same time.

FINANCIAL AND BUSINESS SUSTAINABILITY Growing a successful business in a world with so many rapid changes is becoming more and more challenging for traditional businesses. However, new approaches to how you can honor the heart and soul of your mission and values while deliberately achieving huge financial success are beginning to emerge.

Discover an

Spas everywhere are seeing that actively giving back to their communities brings positive dividends.

In regards to whatever sustainable initiatives you’ve been able to accomplish, if there isn’t already a better way to do it now there most definitely will be soon. Spread the word about your sustainable spa and avoid greenwashing by sharing openly about your efforts from a place of honesty, transparency and humility. Make sure to measure and report on your accomplishments as specifically as possible. Your customers and other stakeholders respond to seeing the real impact you’re making much more than they care about your commitment or intentions.

SUSTAIN & GAIN

Growing a sustainable brand is not difficult if you keep it simple and take one step at a time. Just like any business pursuit; take action, learn from the results and improve as you go. For innovators, sustainability offers a rich context for being creative and discovering simple ways to cause positive change. However you approach it, your sustainable brand is one of the best assets you can build to support a stable, thriving bottom line in a world of change.

Paul Schmidt is the Executive Director for the Green Spa Network. Schmidt has been an innovator in the business of health and wellness for more than 25 years. He began his career as a body worker and moved on to be an educator, spa director, owner, wellness center developer and consultant.

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Capture phyto-focused transformation with Pink Opulence Phyto Face Therapy from Avery Graham. Activating a targeted delivery system to infuse skin with vitamins, minerals and phyto-nutrients, this advanced hydrator improves firmness, soothes sensitivities and boosts fatigued skin. Botanical blends encompass natural anti-inflammatories with clinical properties for skin health and lasting results.

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UN “BEE”-LIEVABLE BENEFITS Heaven + URTH Skincare’s Beelieve Deep Hydration Balm leaves a soft, glowing complexion and long-term use revitalizes the skin. Crystal Surmanian and Tanya Robertson, Beelieve product co-developers, were motivated to create a nourishing balm after noticing an overwhelming amount of their clients with overly dehydrated skin.

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The MicroPeel Facial Scrub from Fountain of Youth Skincare is an organic 2-in-1 microdermabrasion that activates an internal pumpkin enzyme peel when used with steam. MicroPeel renews and supports skin’s cell turnover, controls breakouts, improves sun damage and softens skin. It is truly the perfect pumpkin treat to add to any facial treatment!

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PAPAYA POWER France Laure’s Fruit Peeling duo is a professional exfoliant with natural enzymes from papaya and pineapple. A fine powder activated with an exfoliant lotion, it gently eliminates dead cells and impurities, accelerates the renewal process and facilitates the extraction of blackheads, resulting in a brighter complexion. The Carica Papaya acts as a soft and natural gum, allowing the destruction of dead cells without affecting healthy cells.

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Designed to renew and balance the skin, this multi-purpose balm fights free radicals and oxidative stress while rehydrating the skin.

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IMAGE

LET’S TALK MAKEUP

Let’s Talk Makeup With Tara Marie Hoxha

Spa Manager for Savor Spa, West Village, New York City

The Final Touch of Color Interviewed by Amanda Clinton Winter

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When did you decide to implement makeup into your spa? We opened our doors as Savor Spa in 2012 and launched makeup in fall of 2013.

How did you do it? We created a beauty bar with select clean makeup brands owned in the U.S. by women entrepreneurs.

How did you select makeup artists? Our resident makeup director, Rebecca Casciano, is well known in the natural beauty world. We started to realize we had many similar connections and ended up seamlessly creating a partnership!

What is the surface area of the makeup compared to the rest of the spa? Split into three areas, we have about 12 feet of makeup surface, including a beauty bar, a makeup application station and a makeup shelf! So, while our boutique definitely showcases our makeup brands, we have tons of shelving to showcase our skin care. The makeup probably takes up about one third of the total space.

What prompted you to choose that size? We loved the idea of having a beauty bar conveniently set up where guests could play with the different makeup lines, try different colors, etc. We also offer makeup touchups after the guests come out of a facial or massage.

LET’S TALK MAKEUP

How do you promote your makeup services? We promote them on our website and instore we have a sign. We have a new partnership with a local gym, which for every bride they sign up, they are told about our services. Our estheticians offer the makeup touch-ups and let our guests know that it’s something we offer. Our makeup artist is also here one to two times per week doing complimentary makeup services to introduce everything to our guests!

Are estheticians trained to promote makeup services after each treatment? Yes, we do makeup trainings with the companies and with our Makeup Director — the estheticians offer quick makeup touch-ups after the facials! This is a nice touch before our guests head out onto the streets of New York City and they feel good knowing that they’re using clean, organic makeup after they just had a facial! It’s also a great way to expose them to makeup that they might not have used before.

Do you have special promotions for makeup? If so for what occasion, and how far in advance do you prepare for these? When we have events, we’ll usually offer VIP exclusives like 10 to 15 percent off for the evening. We usually start promoting our events one month before.

What kind of makeup treatments do you offer on the menu? Aside from the traditional makeup touchups, color-matching, applications and even makeup lessons, we can “green” clients’ beauty routines! We’ll go through their makeup bags (if they want us to) and let them know which items are super toxic and what we can replace it with.

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PINCH OF

Youth How to Create a

Permanently Beautiful Natural Pout

by Rose Marie Beauchemin

ude color tattooing for the lips is a cutting-edge trend in permanent makeup that’s rapidly exploding in popularity! This procedure re-establishes the lip shape and blends into the client’s natural lip color, defining a full and flattering pout without an obvious lip line, an effect that’s illuminated by clear or tinted gloss.

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PINCH OF YOUTH

BEAUTY BENEFITS YOUTH ENHANCING Lips denote youth, and this technique makes the lips look younger in two key ways:

-Lips appear fuller. This is a very exciting development, as women have long shied away from permanent lip color because they believed it would create a sharp and obvious lip-line, which they would be left with after their lipstick or gloss wore off.

-Natural color. Natural looking color is another factor in youthful 124

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looking lips. As women mature, the vermillion border of the lip flattens out and the color starts moving away from the once defined frame. The natural lip line tends to become fragmented and faded, resulting in an aging effect this technique can address.

COLOR CHAMELEON The question clients most often ask about permanent lip color is whether they can wear any other lip color once the lips are tattooed. The answer is yes, they can wear any color over tattooed lips since it is under the skin and the lipstick or gloss is being placed on the surface of the lips. So even if a natural lip color is tattooed, they can wear a bright red (or any other) lip color to match their party dress!

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PINCH OF YOUTH

PRO’S TIP: Tattooing above a natural vermillion border or ridge guarantees an unnatural, even theatrical look. However, coming up on the crest of the vermillion border or ridge can be beautifully dramatic, especially if the lip color has receded.

THE PROTOCOL The outline of the selected lip shape is tattooed and clearly defined before applying the blending technique to create this nude lip color tattoo. This effect is created using a blending technique because it allows the artist to define a full and flattering lip shape without an obvious or delineating lip line.

CUSTOMIZE BY FACE SHAPE This process begins by noting the facial shape of the client, particularly her jawline, which is the key to re-establishing her face shape for the most flattering, balanced effect.

PEAR SHAPED FACE A pear-shaped face has a jawline that appears broader or wider than the forehead. To bring this entire face into balance for the most flattering effect, avoid drawing the peaks on the bow of her lips widespread and low. This only widens the appearance of her jawline, making it appear broader. Keeping the points of her bow closer together and a bit higher draws the eye inward, creating the appearance of a narrower jawline. Also, dip or “pout” her bottom lip slightly downward in the middle, as this also lends the appearance of a narrower jawline.

LONG OVAL A long oval face shape requires the direct opposite approach of the pear shaped face. The bow of the lips should be lowered, rounded and widened to create the appearance of a broader jawline. Bows that are high and pointed will appear harsh, and make the face appear even longer and narrower. The bottom lip should be straighter across so as not to elongate this facial shape, so skip the dip or pout in the middle for the oval face shape. *There are many different ways the blending technique can be performed, and various needle selections can be chosen to achieve this effect. This is simply determined by the preference of the practitioner.

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Average time: 45 to 90 minutes, depending on the amount of color the client desires and the size of lips. Tattooing only a lip line is very quick. A blended effect takes longer, and a full lip color procedure takes the most time. Average price: $500 - $1,000 for the entire procedure (range depends on the amount of color selected), which includes two sessions, including the initial procedure and a touch-up six to 12 weeks later. Duration of results: Lip tattoos last three to five years, and longevity depends on the following factors:

PRECAUTIONS There is a limit to the amount of fullness this tattooing technique can achieve. Tattooing does not have the same effect as a filler procedure, which plumps the lips but nonetheless makes them appear fuller and is very dramatic. However this tattooing technique can work in conjunction with filler procedures. Clients should wait one or two weeks after a filler procedure before getting a lip tattoo procedure.

TIMELINE Since the topical anesthetics blanch the natural lip color, the full effect of the blending cannot be seen until fully healed, which takes approximately two weeks. Lips also take longer for the full effect to take place because pigment color tends to hide in lips and re-surface over a four-week period.

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POSTPROCEDURE CARE Optimizing moisture during the healing process is critical to color retention with gentle ingredients following tattooing. Avoid sunscreens until the lip tissue is completely healed, which takes approximately two weeks. Any active skin care ingredients that encourage exfoliation should be permanently avoided. Products containing ingredients such as retinols and glycolic acids can cause loss of pigment.

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Age of client: A mature womanâ€™s lips can hold color longer than a young womanâ€™s, due to less cellular activity in the skin. Also, there is often less fat in the lips of mature women, helping sustain the color and appear more intense. Depth of color: Earthy tones that are closer to the actual lip color may fade quicker than a brighter color. UV exposure: Exposure to sunlight greatly reduces the retention of all types of permanent makeup. Skin care products. Active skin care products, such as retinols and glycolics, fade permanent lip color and should not be applied following lip tattooing, as they may accelerate fading.

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PRECAUTIONS FOR CLIENT Ensure your clients know what to expect during and after the procedure. For lip tattooing, they should know the following: Although topical anesthetics are used pre-procedure, the first pass around the lips may feel scratchy. However, once the skin is broken there should be complete comfort due to the efficacy of the topical anesthetics used for this phase of the procedure. Lips will feel dry and chaffed for approximately two weeks following tattooing. If a client has a history of herpes simplex and is not properly pre-medicated with an anti-viral drug, she may have an outbreak. If this occurs, she may experience loss of color in the area of

Clients should wait one or two weeks after a filler procedure before getting a lip tattoo procedure. the outbreak and healing time would be greater. However, this can be fully avoided with pre-treatment.

WHO SHOULD AVOID LIP TATTOOING? Clients seeking color significantly lighter than their natural lip. The only way a color lighter than the actual lip color can be achieved is by adding white to the formula, which appears chalky and extremely unnatural over time. White or beige pigments are opaque and never leave the skin, and other colors used in tattooing are translucent and fade over time.

Clients seeking a white or beige line around their lips for a fuller appearance. This becomes unsightly over time and even begins to yellow. Fitzpatrick Skin Types 5 or 6. Hyperpigmentation surrounding the lips is a risk for this group. In addition, the amount of color thatâ€™s actually visible when healed is low, leading to client disappointment.

Rose Marie Beauchemin is the owner and director of education for the Beau Institute of Permanent and Corrective Cosmetics. She brings her 25 years of experience and knowledge of makeup artistry and color theory into each training program offered at Beau. For more information, visit beauinstitute.com or call 888.763.2328. Contact Beauchemin at rosemarie@beauinstitute.com.

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HARNESSING THE POWER OF THE SEA A featherweight, flawless, silky powder for any skin type, Repêchage’s Natural Finish Pressed Powder is perfect for shine-free touch-ups throughout the day. Natural seaweed sun filtration helps protect skin and sodium bicarbonate keeps product and applicator fresh, preventing comedone buildup.

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HOLIDAY SPARKLE With a subtle touch of gold from Sothys’ Sparkling Powder, your clients can go from daytime to evening chic in seconds. The shimmer can be applied as an accent to cheeks, shoulders, décolleté, arms, legs and even on hair! The powder blends exceptionally well and does not feel sticky or itchy on skin.

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Create a long-lasting plumping effect while offering an anti-aging treatment for the lip area with the Lip Plumping Complex from G.M. Collin. The revolutionary Micro-Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid technology is infused with peptide for supple and visibly fuller lips. The easy to apply complex can be used alone or under lipstick for a luscious touch of shimmer.

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SOFT GLOW, HIGH GLAMOUR South Seas Skincare’s Island Glow Body Bronzer is unique in its ability to provide color without feeling sticky, dry immediately and not transfer onto clothing. A cosmetic bronzer, it covers stretch marks and imperfections. This has made it a hit amongst Hollywood elite like Chrissy Teigen, Jesse James Decker and on the sets of Dancing with the Stars, “300: Rise of an Empire,” “Magic Mike XXL,” and “Modern Family.”

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ADVERTISER INDEX Page Number

Reader Service No.

43............... Altair Instruments.................................................... altairinstruments.com....................................................... 243 13............... Avery Graham......................................................... averygraham.com............................................................ 355 117............. Beau Institute Of Permanent Cosmetics................. beauinstitute.com............................................................ 167 8................. Bella Schneider Beauty........................................... bellaschneiderbeauty.com............................................... 180 6,7.............. Bio-Therapeutic...................................................... bio-therapeutic.com........................................................ 139 56............... Biojouvance............................................................ biojouvance.com............................................................. 140 119............. Bioslimming............................................................ bioslimming.com............................................................. 335 132............. Blue Beautifly.......................................................... bluebeautifly.com............................................................ 214 25............... Bon Vital.................................................................. bonvital.com................................................................... 265 54............... Cils France.............................................................. cilsfrance.net................................................................... 131 15............... Circadia................................................................... circadia.com.................................................................... 101 117............. Dr. Jeff / Beaute Attica, Inc..................................... dr-jeff.com....................................................................... 248 2,3.............. Éminence Organic Skin Care.................................. eminenceorganics.com.................................................... 157 132............. Equipro USA........................................................... equipro-bty.com.............................................................. 242 33............... France Laure........................................................... francelaure.com............................................................... 199 59............... Glymed Plus............................................................ glymedplus.com.............................................................. 303 60,61.......... Grandelash-MD....................................................... grandelash-md.com........................................................ 286 69............... Hale Cosmeceuticals............................................... halecosmeceuticals.com.................................................. 133 5................. Hydrafacial.............................................................. edgesystems.com............................................................ 201 127............. Hydropeptide.......................................................... hydropeptide.com........................................................... 278 57............... Infinity Sun.............................................................. infinitysun.com................................................................ 118 35,36.......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Philadelphia........... philadelphia.skincareshows.com 64,65.......... Int’l Congress of Esthetics and Spa: Dallas.................... dallas.skincareshows.com 9................. Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics......... ladyburd.com.................................................................. 119 55............... Les Victoires du Regard 2016................................. victoiresduregard.com.................................................... 119 23............... Lucrece Physician’s Aesthetic Research................... lucrece.com..................................................................... 263 31............... MEG 21................................................................... meg21.com..................................................................... 344 55............... Misencil................................................................... misencil.com................................................................... 287 37............... Rejuvi Laboratory.................................................... rejuvilab.com................................................................... 149 70,71.......... Repêchage.............................................................. repechage.com............................................................... 196 45............... Revitalash................................................................ revitalash.com................................................................. 346 105............. Sothys..................................................................... sothys-usa.com................................................................ 306

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LNE & Spa - December 2015