Issuu

O C TO B E R 2 02 0

The Food Issue

OUR BEST SAV SAVINGS A INGS PLAN EVER. AV

Part of banking well is doing good, and with hundreds of animals in local shelters, itâ€™s time to do some serious saving. Thatâ€™s why, with the support of local community partners, we launched the Bankwell Pet Adoption Project to boost awareness and collect supplies for all the special dogs and cats in need of a home.

Go to mybankwell.com/PleaseAdoptMe to see available dogs and cats and see how you can help.

mybankwell.com/PleaseAdoptMe 100 Post Road East, Westport | (203) 652-2710 Special thanks to our outstanding volunteer photographer, Mike Bagley, whose generosity and remarkable way with animals has played a vital role in this program. Member FDIC | Equal Housing Lender

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LIFESTYLE LETTER

OCTOBER 2020 PUBLISHER

Marisa MacLean | marisa.maclean@lifestylepubs.com EDITORIAL SUPER VISOR

Let’s Eat! OH, YOU’RE IN FOR A TREAT! This month is all about food: the most eye-catching, trendiest, newest, and tastiest dishes we could find. These days, it’s easy to get stuck in a rut and find yourself eating the same things each day. We get it: all of us are busy dealing with unprecedented global events, uncertainty, social distancing, distance learning, oh boy!

Robin Moyer Chung | robin.chung@lifestylepubs.com AD DESIGNER

Miranda Williams L AYO UT DESIGNER

Emily Lisenbee CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Robin Moyer Chung, Jen Berniker, Sophia Andersen CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Mindy Briar, John Videler, Lindsay Fairchild, Jerri Graham, Pam Eisenberg Photography, Rebecca Stern Photography, Thomas McGovern, Manny Vargas

This month it’s time to branch out. Try something new! You may find a fresh staple to add to your rotation. And we’re here to point you in the right direction. This issue is packed full of unique recipes, restaurants, and ideas for you to enjoy. One of the hardest hit trades during the pandemic is the restaurant industry. Our local chefs, restaurateurs and staff had to adapt quickly to survive. Turn to page 30 for a series of interviews to learn how these impressive folks coped, even thrived, during a number of setbacks. Some are even opening new restaurants! Yes, you read that right! Check out our feature on page 38 to see how and why Bill Taibe decided to open an entirely new

CORPORATE TEAM CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Steven Schowengerdt CHIEF SALES OFFICER Matthew Perry

restaurant concept in the middle of a pandemic.

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER DeLand Shore

We also highlight Food Rescue Us, an amazing organization that repurposes excess

OPERATIONS DIRECTOR Janeane Thompson

ART DIRECTOR Sara Minor

food from restaurants and eateries and delivers them to those in need. They need

AD MANAGER Chad Jensen

our help, just as they’ve helped others.

REGIONAL SALES DIRECTOR Eric Williams WEB APPLICATIONS Michael O’Connell

Whether it’s curbside, outside, delivery or home-cooked, I hope this issue inspires you to keep eating well, Westport!

514 W 26TH ST., KANSAS CITY, MO

ON THE COVER Jeff Northrop shucking Hummock Island Oysters.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MINDY BRIAR 8

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

CityLifestyle.com/Westport

Proverbs 3:5-6 Westport Lifestyle™ is published monthly by Lifestyle Publications LLC. It is distributed via the US Postal Service to some of the Westport areas’ most affluent neighborhoods. Articles and advertisements do not necessarily reflect Lifestyle Publications’ opinions. No portion of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without written consent. Lifestyle Publications does not assume responsibility for statements made by advertisers or editorial contributors. Information in Westport Lifestyle™ is gathered from sources considered to be reliable, but the accuracy of all information cannot be guaranteed.

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INSIDE THE ISSUE OCTOBER 2020

FEATURES 18 The Local Universal Oyster And the Mysterious House in Mill Cove

24 Beautiful Rooms for Dining Designed by Tusk Home + Design

30 Reinventing Restaurants Today, It's Feast or Famine

38 24

38 Nueva Temporada, Nuevo Restaurante Creating Cantina Don Memo

DEPARTMENTS 8

Lifestyle Letter

Good Times

Around Town

Road Trip

24 Renovate & Refine 38 Hot Spot 44 Locally Owned 48 Culinary Creations 54 Giving Back

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GOOD TIMES 1.

TeenCamp for Kids Covid makes kids innovative! To fill a void in kids' activities, a group of Westport teens created a very wet camp for children of friends and neighbors.

10.

11.

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Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

D R . M A S H A KO G A N & D R . V I R G I N I A R O M A N O

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AROUND TOWN this year. They launched The Teacher Marketplace to help families and teachers connect for private education options. The site launched in August and provides families an easy way to locate qualified teachers for virtual or in-person learning. Families may select one-on-one learning or find other families to form a “pod”. Teachers may also register and identify families that are seeking educators. TheTeachersMarketplace.com

WESTPORT TEEN MAKES IT TO SHARK WEEK! Congratulations to Tyler Mace for his appearance on Shark Week! Tyler set up and is raising money (tax deductible) for his nonprofit foundation, TheSharkSide.org to fund shark research and conservation. Only 16, Tyler’s been researching sharks for four years with shark expert Dr. Craig O’Connell (who worked with Mike Tyson in Shark Week) and last year became his first-ever research fellow. This summer, Tyler attended the University

TEENS TAKE ON TOWNEE TEES

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comfy Westport themed apparel. We decided to help Townee mix things up a bit this summer by creating a new collection of Tie Dye tees, hoodies and hats. We design, dye each piece, even packing up each order and hand delivering them for free in Westport. So, if you’re in the market for comfy, colorful new gear, shop at Townee and let everyone know that you are a part of the of the 06880. Townee.us - Theo Vergakis and Nick Prior

WESTPORT MOM LAUNCHES THE FIRST CONNECTIVITY APP FOR PARENTS AND CHILDREN Lindsay Yellin, mother to Taylee (4) and Ryker (22 months), recently launched EPIC PLAY 365. It's an app and a community in which parents can find

LOCAL DADS CREATE A SOLUTION TO NAVIGATE PRIVATE LEARNING OPTIONS Local dads Evan Klein and Nat Brogadir recognized the uncertainties in their children’s education

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

daily activities to do with their child that only take a few minutes to set up and clean up. Each activity is a memory-creating opportunity. Learn more and watch a sample activity at www.EPICPLAY365.com

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| ACCESSORIES

ROAD TRIP

AND THE MYSTERIOUS HOUSE IN MILL COVE ARTICLE ROBIN MOYER CHUNG | PHOTOGRAPHY MINDY BRIAR

The Local Universal Oyster

Oyster guard's house.

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

YOU’VE SEEN IT: A TINY HOUSE ON A SMALL ISLAND IN THE MIDDLE OF MILL COVE. It’s too charming to be haunted, too tidy to be a neglected relic, and too visible to be a party destination for our wayward youth. What is it, then? It’s the past-home (no water, no electricity) of a reclusive oyster security guard. More recently, Hummock Island has become a favored destination of “Influencers” who find the quaint retreat highly bloggable and Instagrammable, especially when accompanied by a few bottles of rosé and matching Covid masks. Hardly ones to turn down an opportunity to mingle and influence, our photographer Mindy Briar and I joined them. Which is why we found ourselves on a warm Tuesday night, standing among sea grass on the Mill Cove shore waiting for the distant motorboat to take us to a corona-wary wine and oyster fling. 35-year old Jeff Northrop, whose family owns the property and who is responsible for its revitalization, motored up to our socially-distanced selves in a sparsely appointed boat. We took off our shoes, clambered in, and he whisked us to the oyster guard’s island. We sipped and socialized while the Influencers snapped countless photos until Jeff reappeared to shuck oysters and delight us with the history of where we were: Waaaayyyy before any of you were born, Westport learned it couldn’t get a charter to become a town unless there was some sort of commerce. So “they” damned up a stream, creating Mill Pond, and built Mill House, a grinding station for grain. Next to it they built Cooper Shed, a shack in which they made barrels to store the grain. These barrels of grain were then hauled onto sailboats and schooners to sell and - BOOM! - commerce! Inadvertently, the streams necessary for the milling also created a perfect environment for bivalve farming, or “growing oysters.” Shallow water, high flow, enviable temperature, and salinity. The Northrops call it the foie gras of oyster farming, wherein the velocity of the water force feeds yummy algae to the oysters, enabling them CONTINUED >

CityLifestyle.com/Westport

ROAD TRIP (CONTINUED)

A beautiful Hummock Island oyster.

Get-together at Hummock Island.

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

to grow twice as fast as oysters in less desirable conditions; 18 months instead of three years. Unlike ducks, the shellfish seem to enjoy this involuntary feeding frenzy. A King’s Grant enabled Jeff’s ancestors to purchase the area and farm bivalves in the 1800s. All went swimmingly until the flu epidemic of 1917. Rumor spread that clam broth cured this ailment, so men took guns to the Mill Cove, intent on stealing medicinal mollusks. Now, let’s assume they knew the difference between oysters and clams and that they thought clams were somehow harvested from oyster beds. It still doesn’t explain why they couldn’t simply buy them. Of interest, according to a March 2020 article in the Washington Post, during this time of influenza those afflicted were recommended a hearty meal of “gruel, barley water, milk toast, …clam soup, beef tea or chicken jelly, and kumiss, a drink of fresh milk mixed with buttermilk and left to ferment for 36 hours.” It’s unclear whether this was considered beneficial for recovery or prevention. However it is clear that clam soup trumps chicken jelly or fermented milk no matter what the national emergency. At any rate, clams were all the rage. So one night, when the

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salty waters had ebbed to their sandy floor, they loaded Cooper shed on to a stone boat… which I just learned is a type of sled, not a boat made of rock… and taxed a team of oxen with dragging it to the island where it now stands. In this shed/house they installed the oyster security guard to scare off crooked clam-divers.

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Fast forward to, say, 2010. Though the beds belonged to Jeff Northrop Sr., oystering was no longer the family “thing” and his son, Jeff, had no inkling of their ownership. “I had graduated from Columbia and was working for a hedge fund when dad told me he runs the property,” Jeff explains, “He said it may be a sustainable business, good for the environment.” Jeff left his job and is now revitalizing Westport’s oyster industry. In effect, he created today’s popular Hummock Island oyster. According to Chef/Owner Nick Martschenko (South End and SE Uncorked, New Canaan) the oysters are plump, briny, and nottoo-salty. “They’re the ‘universal’ oyster” Nick adds.

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All of us merry influencers agreed. Though only two were brave enough to slurp the ghost crabs… CityLifestyle.com/Westport

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RENOVATE & REFINE

Beautiful Rooms for Dining DESIGNED BY TUSK HOME + DESIGN

ARTICLE ROBIN MOYER CHUNG PHOTOGRAPHY PROVIDED BY TUSK HOME + DESIGN DINING ROOMS ARE HIP AGAIN! According to interior trendsetters it’s time to re-focus on the civility and charm of a beautiful eating space. Takeout is getting fancier, home cooks are getting fancier, so too should the room in which they’re enjoyed. Creature comfort and the visually unexpected are the ironic bedfellows in today’s dining room. The juxtaposition of textures, colors, and patterns, while ensuring those seated are cozy and cushioned. Color is cautiously invited back into our homes. While palettes largely remain soft - no point in shocking our aesthetic out of neutral - all colors are welcomed, often in unexpected contrasts. With families sheltering and children returning home, dining chairs are more comfortable and inviting, as this room is becoming the gathering spot for meals and games. Consider incorporating natural elements and organic shapes, especially in spaces with large windows. The outdoors-inside is more popular than ever, especially as urban-dwellers flock to the solace of the suburbs and nature offers welcome respite. CONTINUED >

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

Sarah Weiland, Owner, Tusk Home + Design (Photo: Lindsay Fairchild)

Mini Lane Dining Room (Photo: Rebecca Stern Photography)

CityLifestyle.com/Westport

RENOVATE & REFINE (CONTINUED)

Southport Terrace Dining Room (Photo: Rebecca Stern Photography)

DETAILS: Tusk Home + Design 1375 Post Road East Westport, CT 06880 tuskhomeanddesign.com 26

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

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Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

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Re i n ve n t i n g Re s t a u r a n t s

Jes Bengston

Photo by John Videler

DETAILS: Position: Head Chef Position: Amis and terrain

At Amis we’ve done a re-brand: new concept, new food,

We did takeout for two weeks and then [parent company

new vibe. It started as a classic Roman Italian and now

Urban Outfitters] decided it was safest just to close. We paid

it’s a modern Italian with more farm-to-table. Think shared

everyone longer than most restaurants could. I wouldn’t

plates, fun drinks, cool lights. I’m obsessed with the fried

trade this safety net for the world. But most don’t have that.

artichokes with black garlic puree and lemon zest!

Once the need for Food for the Front Lines died down, we took the remaining funds from the sale of Stephanie

HOW HAVE THE WESTPORT CLIENTELE BEEN?

Webster’s (CTBites.com) cookbook and started Food for

Pretty amazing. People are following the rules, wear-

Behind the Lines, which helped stock pantries for unem-

ing a mask. The fear is that enthusiasm for eating out

ployed restaurant workers and their families.

will diminish. I’m very concerned for when the government loans run out. A lot of restaurants are going to close.

HAS YOUR JOB AS HEAD CHEF CHANGED?

every week. I can work with local purveyors to prepare these

Words of wisdom for the future?

special meals and really connect with guests and staff.

Take everything with grain of salt. Be flexible. Try to extend

At terrain… we’ve been forced to slow down, which has been good for me. I’ve run this three-course chef’s menu

We’re also sending out these little snacks to guests. I’ve

the patio season – get heat lamps and blankets. And keep

been loving our farm picnics, like the BYOB (Bring Your

takeout going strong. Pre-package food people can cook at

Own Blanket) at Wakeman Town Farm.

home. I’m even thinking of sending home our terrain bread pots. Whatever we can do to keep our customers happy.

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

ARTICLE JEN BERNIKER

WHAT WAS THE SHUT-DOWN LIKE FOR YOU?

HOW FIVE RESTAURANTS SUCCESSFULLY MANAGED THE PANDEMIC AND WHAT CHALLENGES LAY AHEAD.

WHY DID YOU DECIDE TO CLOSE BEFORE THE GOVERNOR ISSUED THE ORDER? We were having these daily war room strategy meetings but it was so unprecedented. We closed two days before the shut-down, on Friday March 13th. Reservations that Saturday were going through the roof. I think everyone was rushing to eat out before things got weird. I didn’t want to be a hotspot. We decided to keep only OKO Westport open for takeout and hibernate. Our landlord was terrific and suspended our rent and it turned into a beautiful story. A dozen people could work safely at OKO full-time. The overwhelming support of the Westport community allowed us to do more than just sustain ourselves. We set up a meal train to feed our 70 employees – preparing about 400 extra meals per week. We also sent 30 meals a day to Norwalk Hospital. All for three months. WHAT DO YOU THINK IS THE SECRET TO THE SUCCESS OF OKO ONLINE? Putting food in a box and bag isn’t my wheelhouse; I love making delicious, beautiful food and putting it on a plate. But you just adjust to ‘this is it.’ We crushed it online with a family bento box for $49. The Cottage also has a value package. These are here to stay for our online world. We ramped up our social media efforts, gave the website a face-lift, and learned to “lean in” - embrace the change and get ahead of it. HOW WAS THE RE-OPEN? The day we could open back up was glorious. I waited a few extra weeks so I could open outside and inside together. We built a gorgeous deck at The Cottage and were offered the former outdoor space of Meatball Shop for OKO. I was very detailed with COVID-19 compliance; when it’s you against a global pandemic, you get obsessive.

DETAILS: Restaurant: The Cottage and OKO Position: Owner and Executive Chef

BRIAN LEWIS

What do you see looking ahead to winter? We are approved for outdoor seating until the end of March, so I’m going to try to tent safely. I’m also working on a couple of pop-up locations at art galleries throughout Westport, doing a true Japanese Omakase experience. I might introduce a fundraising element for non-profits with speakers or auctions, so stay tuned for that. And we’ll keep growing the in-home experience. I could bring raw meals to cook for private dinner parties. We are not slowing down. CONTINUED >

CityLifestyle.com/Westport

REINVENTING RESTAURANTS (CONTINUED)

MATT STORCH Photo by Thomas McGovern

Photo by Thomas McGovern

DETAILS: Restaurant: Match and Match Burger Lobster Position: Chef/Owner

HOW DID YOU FIRST RESPOND TO THE PANDEMIC? I basically went into survival mode. The issue impacted

you could take home a raw roast and watch a video of me explaining how to cook it.

so many people along the supply line, from the dishwasher to the guy catching the fish. When Nicole Straight took

WHAT’S IT LIKE NOW THAT RESTAURANTS ARE OPEN?

off with Food for the Front Lines, I dove in. We were feed-

At Match Burger Lobster it’s like a picnic. You order at

ing police and hospital workers and keeping our people

the window and we bring it to you in a bag. We may just

employed. I did the same for homeless shelters and this

keep it this way.

kept my restaurant going.

We are all worried about what happens when outside goes away. Will people be comfortable coming inside? Will

HOW’S THE TAKEOUT BUSINESS? At Match Burger Lobster we got back to about 90%

they go back to takeout with the same vigor? Now that I have takeout models in place, I’m ready.

of pre-pandemic sales and had all employees back full-

We’re brainstorming ideas, like setting up a remote

time. That food travels really well. But between Uber Eats,

restaurant in a field with a closed-side tent and heaters, and

walk-ups, and call-ins, you have no way to control the vol-

doing small, 20-person catering.

ume like with table seating. At times we had to shut off the orders because it got too crazy.

HOW HAS THE COMMUNITY COME TOGETHER? As food professionals, we solve problems quickly. But to

HOW DID YOU INNOVATE? I partnered with Chef’s Warehouse and Copp’s Island Oysters and started Match Provisions, a direct-to-trunk

have the town flowing with us, saying yes and then making it happen has been the most impressive part of all of this.

unloaded boxes of skirt steaks, jugs of cream cheese, live

How are you managing to keep up?

lobsters, fresh oysters, beer… a unique variety of things

I’ve never been busier in my life. Trying to keep restaurants

went into people’s trunks! I also did holiday Match kits;

open during this is definitely a feat.

delivery service for people who didn’t want to go in stores. Refrigerated trucks pulled into Westport Station and

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

Molly healy DETAILS: Restaurant: Manna Toast Position: Owner, Head Chef

A QUARANTINE SEEMS LIKE A CRAZY TIME TO OPEN A RESTAURANT…

HOW’S TAKEOUT GOING? A social distance picnic is something we do well. We

This has actually been a great time to open! With

did movie boxes with toast, salad and popcorn for the

everyone home, cooking, sharing recipes, and eating

Remarkable Theater drive-in. As part of the catering busi-

have become the main activities, so people are excited

ness, we’ve done baby showers and other events with

to try something new.

picnic tables and lunch-boxes.

WHAT IS MANNA TOAST?

What’s in the future for Manna Toast?

We are casual food, locally sourced with a twist. Big hearty pieces of toast with lots of toppings. Everything from blueberry French toast to burrata, cauliflower hash, and classic hummus with cucumbers. We also offer sal-

We want to build a brand and expand to multiple locations!

ads, kids toasts, and a coffee bar. CONTINUED >

CityLifestyle.com/Westport

REINVENTING RESTAURANTS (CONTINUED)

Scott Lawton DETAILS: Restaurant: bartaco Position: CEOÂ + Cofounder

Photo: Manny Vargas 34

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

WHAT WAS THE BIGGEST LEAP YOU HAD TO MAKE TO KEEP BUSINESS GOING? We

didn’t

offer

delivery

all

prior to COVID-19, and had to shift swiftly. Within weeks we had delivery up and running. Takeout was something we were well versed in, but of course, not the volume. It was a bit overwhelming at first. HAS THE COMMUNITY BEEN SUPPORTIVE? Yes, they’ve been incredible. People have been posting themselves bartaco’ing and it has been amazing to see our friends in Westport experiencing bartaco in different places.

What's been your silver lining? The way restaurants in Westport have helped each other out. We have always had a close-knit group of restaurant managers. The food scene has been kept alive and thriving by loyal guests who are always eager for a delicious meal as well as the culinary greats who live in the area and are constantly bringing new ideas. We’re in this together. CityLifestyle.com/Westport

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HOT SPOT

CREATING CANTINA DON MEMO

Nueva Temporada, Nuevo Restaurante IT WAS THE ANNOUNCEMENT THAT

“[Jesup Hall] took me a year and half to

ROCKED WESTPORT. Even if months of

get right and it was never really a ‘concept’.

self-isolation hadn’t left us starving for thrills,

We called it a ‘tavern.’” Bill says, “A new con-

Chef Bill Taibe’s news would have ignited

cept, a cantina, gave us something great to

breathless speculation and thrown taste

focus on, something different and not just

buds into a tizzy:

the week-to-week.”

Don Memo!

So they steamed off the vintage topiarian

Yes, Bill shuttered Jesup Hall and, in

wallpaper and replaced it with hand-painted

seemingly moments, celebrated the opening

grass-cloth. They replaced the framed maps

of a Mexican cantina.

and tonal art with colorful prints and black

First: Yay! Second: What? Third: Why?

and white photographs.

It all started this past Mother’s Day,

Bartenders stocked the bar with tequilas

during Jesup Hall’s lunch. Bill spent half of

and mezcals, creating colorful aqua fres-

this special day preparing and packaging

cas and margaritas from freshly-squeezed

lovely dishes for moms and spent the other

fruit juices.

half angry.

He and his executive chef, Anthony

“We had all this gorgeous food and it

Kostelis, scoured the farmers market and

looked horrible in the boxes!” Bill exclaims,

farms for locally-sourced ingredients,

“In the middle of Mother’s Day I came in and

developing a menu of tostados, guaca-

told everyone I was done.”

moles, tamales, and home-made torti-

Bill is a guy whose photos exude a

llas. They taste-tested every new dish,

restrained professionalism that belies his

knowing they wouldn’t serve it until it

animation and charm. Which, fortunately,

was blessed by their Mexican staffers. “All

exceeds his capacity to disenchant a

I cared about is what they thought,” Bill

loyal staff. They probably already knew

smiles. “Here we are, a bunch of gringos

what Bill finally realized after three years

in the kitchen so we’re handing everything

of cooking American dishes, “I just got

to them to make sure they like it.” The

bored. There’s only so much I can do with

result, according to Stephanie Webster of

a fat piece of asparagus.”

CTBites.com, is a menu full of dishes with

They probably also knew that Bill would

a “Clean, bright, spectacular, deep flavor”

be more bored doing nothing. In fact, it took

that are “good for takeout” should the four

him all of a day or two to roar back with his

horsemen of the apocalypse shack up

zygote fused from self-proclaimed ADD and

with the angels of hell in a nice little rental

a lifelong passion for Mexican culture.

near Compo.

CONTINUED >

ARTICLE ROBIN MOYER CHUNG | PHOTOGRAPHY MINDY BRIAR

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

The Don Memo crew.

CityLifestyle.com/Westport

HOT SPOT (CONTINUED) Fresa, with blanco, lime, and strawberry.

Memo Garcia, aka "Don Memo"

Chorizo Verde Quesadilla with taleggio & salsa verde.

Jalapeno, Cotija y Frijoles Tamale A feast for a fiesta!

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

The original Don Memo and his wife.

A week after Dad’s Day, Cantina Don Memo was born.

Bill Taibe with Anthony Kostelis.

You, like me, may have assumed that Bill named his bebé after a great war hero or political leader. Potato Tostada with salsa guisada, cabbage, black bean.

You may have wondered how Bill knows about this man and you do not. Perhaps you assumed Bill enjoyed a superior education or a better memory than you. Were this to be true, you might conveniently blame the bias of history book writers and educators throughout your own academic journey. Relax, dear reader. Your memory is fine. And the reason for the name is mucho más delightful than political: Memo Garcia is Bill’s favorite employee. He hails from Puebla, Mexico and has worked in the Taibe eatery empire for over 15 years. Since then, Memo has been joined by his brothers Erik and Aaron and, most recently, his 19-year old son Brian. Bill and his family have visited Memo’s family in Puebla several times, where Bill “obsesses” over their culture and cuisine. Evidently there are a lot of good cooks in la familia de Garcia. In fact, Memo’s father, the original Don Memo, owned a restaurant named… wait for it… Cantina Don Memo. And his

Gorgeous bottles of spirits at the bar.

wedding photo is on the wall. CityLifestyle.com/Westport

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Ten Years of Eating

“WHEN I SERVE CABBAGE IN CREAM, MY MEN GUESTS ARE ECSTATIC,” HELEN CORBITT,

THEN

RESTAURANTS

THE

FOR

DIRECTOR

NEIMAN-MARCUS,

WROTE IN 1974. Why they were ecstatic, I have no idea. The recipe gives no indication it should be appealing to anyone. It does, however, give us an idea of how much food (and society) has changed in the past 50 years. We’ve made considerable strides since hostesses cooked Ham

HOW OUR TASTE AND TRENDS HAVE EVOLVED

Steak with Onion Gravy for dinner parties and

ARTICLE ROBIN MOYER CHUNG

dish from Rome. Not “Italy.” From “Rome.”

PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOS FROM CTBITES.COM

Fettuccine Alfredo was a revolutionary new In and around Westport, the past 10 years have shown considerable change in dining; it’s fair to say we’ve become a hot spot for innovative chefs. This reputation is partly due to CTBites.com, a popular foodie blog

Stephanie Webster, Founder of CTBites.com (Photo: Jerri Graham Photography)

started by Stephanie Webster 11 years ago. With little competition, the site went gangbusters and is now considered the go-to for finding the next great meal. WESTPORT LIFESTYLE: WHY ARE GREAT RESTAURANTS POPPING UP IN WESTPORT? STEPHANIE WEBSTER: We’re a sophisticated audience of migrant New Yorkers. People here like to take chances with food and are excited about trying different things. Ten years ago, menus were old-school, but now they’re Korean, Ethiopian, Japanese, Mexican - cuisine the chefs are passionate about. A chef’s job is to push us to try new things. (Brian) Lewis lived in Japan to study Japanese cuisine, and (Bill) Taibe has been passionate for years about Mexico. Dining is huge because it’s our entertainment for the night, so people want something that wows them. WL: HOW HAS SOCIAL MEDIA IMPACTED RESTAURANTS? SW: Instagram is absolutely pivotal in

Sushi, Chef Brian Lewis, OKO

changing the food scene, creating outrageous, visually stunning food. Chefs follow each other and know the trends. They also create dishes that photograph nicely; so much of food you eat with your eyes.

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

Avocado toast, Tropical bowl, Cascade bowl at GG & Joe.

WL: WHAT ROLE, IF ANY, DOES OUR FARMERS MARKET PLAY IN ALL OF THIS? SW: The Farmers Market has an enormous influence on fresh food. The brilliance and drive of Laurie Cochran in the farm-to-table movement makes it easier for chefs to access and use local farms and products.[Laurie] even kept it open during isolation so farms could be open for sales. WL: WE WITNESS THE RISE AND DEMISE OF SO MANY EATERIES HERE. WHAT IS THE “SECRET SAUCE” FOR A SUCCESSFUL RESTAURANT? SW: Westport’s a tough audience. People are picky, they have opinions, and they expect the very best. To succeed, the owners have to be strong business people and make sure the front of house and back of house are running seamlessly. I tell chefs “go through a soft opening.” If a dish is too slow or salty [diners] tell their friends and don’t go back. I get texts all the time from readers, “I’m going to Hoodoo Brown BBQ. Do you know if they have anything for a vegan gluten-free dinner?” And, “I just ate at XXX restaurant you had written about last year. I did not see the bone marrow entrée you mentioned. I was very disappointed to not find it on the menu.” I

Local Oyster, Chef Carlos Perez, @ At The Corner

mean… it had been almost a year, lady. Food Truck, JRs

WL: YEAH. WESTPORTERS ARE A TOUGH AUDIENCE. WHAT’S THE BIGGEST COMPLAINT YOU HEAR FROM RESTAURANT OWNERS ABOUT US? SW: Chefs are always happy to make substitutions or accommodate diets, but sometimes diners go too far and compromise the dish. That’s the biggest complaint. Also, some people who go to the same restaurant often expect to be treated in a certain way, like demanding a table or walking in without a mask. WL: HOW HAS COVID IMPACTED THE INDUSTRY? SW: It’s fascinating to watch what they’re doing during Covid. There’s only so much outdoor seating, so they’re focusing on good meals that are also

STEPHANIE WEBSTER

good for takeout, figuring out packaging and mak-

CTBites.com

ing sure it travels well. And there’s a lot of excitement for less conventional, fun instagram-worthy food trucks. WL: I LOVE THE TRUCKS.

SW: I do, too. CityLifestyle.com/Westport

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CULINARY CREATIONS

Two of Westport Lifestyle's Favorite Recipes BECAUSE THEY'RE SO GOOD.

ARTICLE LAUREN COSTELLO AND KAREN LOSCALZO

hot ogra nP

HealthyGFFamily.com

in ar se

tips on gluten-free living. @HealthyGFFamily

o alz osc Karen L

Family, sharing simple, delicious recipes and

phy)

A former beauty marketing executive, Karen now runs her blogÂ Healthy Gluten Free

ea lth yG

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

me lute : Pa n Fre o t o e Family (Ph

E la

one GENERAL TSO'S CHICKPEAS + VEGGIES

An easy, adaptable and beyond delicious dish that's sure to become one of your go-to dinners. Serves 4 INGREDIENTS:

DIRECTIONS: Sauce: In a small saucepan, heat sesame oil over medium-low heat. Add ginger and garlic, stirring until fragrant. Add remaining ingredients and whisk to combine.

Sauce:

Simmer for 10-15 minutes or until the sauce is thick-

+ 1 T sesame oil

ened. Set aside.

+ 3 cloves garlic, minced

Stir Fry: In a large skillet over medium-high heat,

+ 1 knob of ginger, grated

add 2-3 T oil and heat until shimmering. Add white

+ ½ C vegetable broth

parts of onions and some of the green parts, sauté

+ ½ C gluten-free tamari or soy sauce

1-2 minutes until tender.

+ ⅓ C rice vinegar

Add garlic and sauté 30 seconds until fragrant.

+ ¼ C sugar

Add peppers and sauté 3-4 minutes until starting

+ 2 T gluten-free plain tomato paste

to get tender. Add broccoli, cook an additional

+ 2 T cornstarch, dissolved in 1-2 T of cold water

2-3 minutes.

Stir Fry Veggies:

and stir to combine. Heat 2-3 minutes over low

+ 1 (15 oz) can chickpeas, rinsed and drained

heat. Spoon into a bowl and set aside.

Add a few spoonfuls of sauce to the vegetables

+ 2-3 T sesame oil

Add chickpeas to the same pan over medium-heat,

+ 1 head of broccoli, cut into bite sized florets

sauté 2-3 minutes to warm. Spoon sauce onto chick-

+ 2 small red bell peppers, cored and sliced

peas, stir to combine, simmer for a few minutes.

+ 2-3 cloves minced garlic + 1 bunch green onions, thinly sliced, white and green parts divided

Serve chickpeas and veggies over brown rice, white rice, or quinoa. Garnish with sesame seeds and green onion.

CONTINUED >

+ Optional: 1 lb chicken breast, cut into 1-2 inch pieces

CityLifestyle.com/Westport

CULINARY CREATIONS (CONTINUED)

Lauren

Braun

Costello

classically

trained chef, published author, cooking show

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

rnik e Be

Je n

ste llo

t ho

@ItsLaurenOfCourse ItsLaurenOfCourse.com

re au

one how to cook anything, including you!

with style and humor! She can teach any-

C he

Stewart and part Midge Maisel, Lauren cooks

host, and expert food stylist. Part Martha

(P se! of It â€™s Lauren, Of Cour

two CLAM CHOWDER crisps. Yes, you read that right. Put the bacon in the cold pan and then turn on the heat so that you brown the bacon, not burn it. Remove the bacon to a paper-towel lined plate. 3. Drain clams and scrub under running water. Cover them in cold water again. The water should be clear and free of sand which, to reiterate, is not one of the ingredients in this soup. Drain one final time and set aside. 4. Heat Dutch oven or soup pot over medium-high heat. Add olive oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add shallots and sauté over medium heat for 1-2 minutes, until softened. Return heat to medium-high. Add 1 cup of fish stock to the pan. Place all the clams in the pan, in a single layer if possible, and bring the liquid to a simmer. Cover Serves 8 INGREDIENTS:

and cook for 6-8 minutes, or until the clams have opened their shells. Tip: Never force open a clam. If it doesn’t open, it

+ 3 dozen fresh little neck clams

wasn’t alive when you brought it home and you

+ 4 slices thick slab bacon

definitely don’t want to eat it.

+ 3 T olive oil + 2 large shallots, minced

5. Remove clams from the pan and discard

+ 4 C fish stock

shells. Chop clams into smaller pieces if too

+ 3 T unsalted butter

large and set aside. Transfer the liquid in the

+ 2 medium onions, finely diced

pan to a separate vessel and set aside.

+ ¼ C all-purpose flour

6. It’s showtime! Heat butter in the now-emp-

+ 1 C heavy cream

tied Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add

+ 2 large Idaho potatoes, peeled and

onion and sauté until softened, stirring fre-

cut into ¼-inch cubes + 1-2 C fresh corn kernels

quently, 6-8 minutes. 7. Stir in flour to distribute evenly and cook for

+ Salt and ground white pepper to taste

1 minute. Add remaining three cups of stock, the

+ ¼ C chopped parsley

reserved pan juices from steaming the clams, the cream, and potatoes. Stir well to combine

DIRECTIONS

and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat.

Tip: If you can’t find fish stock, use chicken stock

Stir gently as the mixture thickens then reduce

or a bottle of clam juice.

the heat to low and cook for 20 minutes, stirring often, until potatoes are tender.

1. In a large mixing bowl, cover the clams with

8. Add clams and corn. Season to taste with

cold tap water. Set aside for 20 minutes up to

a lot of salt and pepper, cook for 2 minutes. Stir

one hour so clams can release sand. You’ll be so

in chopped parsley and remove from the heat.

very glad they did.

9. Serve immediately, garnished with bacon

2. Cut bacon in ½-inch strips crosswise. Place

and oyster crackers (if you haven’t been nosh-

them in a sauté pan, turn the heat to medi-

ing on the bacon and crackers while preparing

um-low, stirring until the bacon browns and

this recipe). CityLifestyle.com/Westport

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Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

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GIVING BACK

WASTE NO MORE

ARTICLE SOPHIA ANDERSEN | PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOS PROVIDED BY FOOD RESCUE US

FOOD RESCUE US DELIVERS TO LOCALS IN NEED

Food Rescue US works with 147 local food donors in Fairfield County, including numerous restaurants, farms, grocery stores and other food providers.

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

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MARKET

How’s The Market? EVER WONDER WHAT HAPPENS TO FRESH FOOD THAT ISN’T PURCHASED AT THE GROCERY STORE? Sadly, most of it is thrown away. Thankfully, Food Rescue

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US - Fairfield County helps keep this food from landfills and delivers it to the hungry in our local community.

Interest rates are at historic lows and inventory of available houses is low.

Carol Shattuck, CEO of Food Rescue US, describes the national nonprofit organization as “a leader in reducing both hunger and food waste in America by connecting the vast amount of healthy, fresh surplus food with the critical hunger demand.” Not

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only do they provide aid to the food insecure, but their work also “addresses the significant issue of food waste which is one of the more important contributors to climate change,” according to Shattuck. Since their start in 2011, Food Rescue US has provided 42 million meals and kept over 57 million pounds of food out of landfill in 33 locations across the country. “Food Rescue US - Fairfield County distributes food directly to over 115 local nonprofit agencies who directly serve their clients,” says Shattuck. “The populations that our social service agency partners CONTINUED >

203.216.1287 mindy.wolkstein@raveis.com mindywolkstein.raveis.com 47 Riverside Avenue | Westport, CT 06880 CityLifestyle.com/Westport

GIVING BACK (CONTINUED)

Food Rescue US provides fresh, healthy meals to people in need.

Since the start of the pandemic, Food Rescue US - Fairfield County has provided over 840,000 meals.

Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

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Summer Fun Sale serve include children, families, veterans and seniors who are experiencing food insecurity.” The organization has agency partners located in 15 towns in the area, including Westport, Fairfield and Norwalk. Due to the COVID pandemic, Shattuck explains, “In Fairfield County, the food insecurity rate is projected to rise from 9.9% to 14.5%… Many of the people needing meals… are looking for help for the first time.” Some local food donors include Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s, along with several local farms, hospitals, restaurants and food providers. RECENTLY, FOOD RESCUE US HAS LAUNCHED THREE NEW INITIATIVES: 1. Community Kitchen Program — Three local community kitchens, each staffed by food service personnel who prepare meals that are delivered by volunteers to people in need. 2. Restaurant Meal Program— Food Rescue US purchases meals from local restaurants that are delivered by volunteers to local agencies. 3.

Farm

Distribution

Program

—

Partnerships with local farms to “recover their excess and… expand and recruit new farm partners,” according to Shattuck. Food Rescue US welcomes “food rescuers” and donors. Please visit foodres-

CELEBRATING 40 YEARS Founded in 1980

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Westport Lifestyle | October 2020

CENTER FOR DIRECTED DIVORCE MEDIATION A CONCIERGE PRACTICE • WHY MEDIATION?

Many divorce and post-divorce cases lend themselves to a non-adversarial approach that is time limited and less costly. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Courts remain closed for most in-person divorce related matters. A successful mediation will lead to a Divorce Agreement and neither party ever needs to appear in Court. Mediation can effectively be employed in cases with child custody and parenting related issues, high net worth cases with complex financial arrangements, or cases with more modest financial circumstances. Our directed divorce mediation approach can help you cut to the chase in an informed and constructive manner.

• WHAT IS A CONCIERGE PRACTICE?

We will hold your hand throughout, while maximizing the opportunity for a trustworthy, productive, and amicable process. We commit to a rapid response. When necessary, our firm will arrange and oversee collaterals such as real estate appraisers, business valuation experts, therapists, and accountants. We streamline the process so you can concentrate on yourself and your family during this transitional time. Finally, our firm does not disappear when your case is over; we remain available to assist with establishing support systems for your new post-divorce life.

• WHY BRODER & ORLAND LLC

What would a judge do? That is a question asked in most consultations and throughout the mediation process. As the largest Family Law firm in Connecticut, our eight highly credentialed lawyers have vast experience with a wide range of divorce and post-divorce cases throughout the state. We have the context to be able to inform you of the parameters of a likely outcome if your case were to go to trial and to guide you appropriately. That is what we refer to as directed divorce mediation. We have found this approach effectively makes the process as amicable, concise and economical as possible.

• DOES BRODER & ORLAND LLC LITIGATE DIVORCE MATTERS AS WELL?

Absolutely! Litigation is not a dirty word. Many cases are better served through the litigation process rather than through mediation. Our lawyers have successfully litigated some of the most notable cases in Connecticut. We are happy to discuss which approach is right for you.

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CAROLE TOPOL ORLAND

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