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2026 / vol 82 / issue 5 / kansasmag.com

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WHAT’S INSIDE /

featured

featured stories

The Foods That Settled Kansas

Mennonite zwiebacks, Czech kolaches and German bierocks are more than comfort food. They are the edible legacy of the families who made Kansas home

Little Farm on the Prairie PHOTO Sarah Reeves

How a first-generation family farm in Manhattan found success in a postpandemic world

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Home of the Last Remaining Lockheed Electra 10-E AmeliaEarhartHangarMuseum.org

WHAT’S INSIDE /

departments

kansas DETAILS 10

Heartland

People and Places That Define Us

Cuisine

Culture

Fine Food and Good Eats

Arts and Experiences

20 Air The Freshness of Outdoor Life 22 Captured Life in the Sunflower State We 24 Reasons Love Kansas Food Shacks

wide open SPACES Cookbook House 28 The That Barb Built

When Barb Rathbun’s collection of

cookbooks outgrew the garage, she

gave it a home of its own—now open to visitors who call ahead

with Tradition 32 Riding Southwest Kansas families celebrate their heritage through charrería, a

vibrant combination of horsemanship, competition and pageantry

kansas TASTE Calm and Taco On 58 Keep One writer hits the trail in search of the

perfect taco—and uncovers why Kansas City is America’s unlikely taco capital

PHOTO Rachael Sebastian

IN EVERY ISSUE 7

The Extra Details

Kansas Gallery

On the Cover Of Course Kitchen & Company in Overland Park brings the world to the table. Featured, from top: caramelized cabbage salad, smashburger with peri-peri fries, and egg curry toast. Photograph by Sarah Reeves.

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KANSAS! (ISSN 0022-8435) is published five (5) times per year by Kansas Tourism, 1000 SW Jackson St., Suite 100, Topeka, KS 66612; 785.296.3479; TTY Hearing Impaired: 785.296.3487 Periodical postage paid at Topeka, KS, and at additional mailing offices. Newsstand price $6 per issue; subscription price $25 per year; $45 for two years. All prices include all applicable sales tax. Please address subscription inquiries to: Toll-free: 800.678.6424 KANSAS!, 1000 SW Jackson St., Suite 100, Topeka, KS 66612 Email: kansas.mag@ks.gov | Website: www.KansasMag.com POSTMASTER: Send address change to: KANSAS!, P.O. Box 146, Topeka, KS 66601-0146 Please mail all editorial inquiries to: KANSAS!, 1000 SW Jackson St., Suite 100, Topeka, KS 66612 email: kansas.mag@ks.gov

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The articles and photographs that appear in KANSAS! magazine may not be broadcast, published or otherwise reproduced without the express written consent of Kansas Tourism or the appropriate copyright owner. Unauthorized use is prohibited. Additional restrictions may apply.

Located in the heart of the Smoky Hills

visit our website for more information

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Check out some upcoming events like the Wildflower Tours, Mountain Man Rendezvous & Trail Rides.

6 KANSAS! magazine

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the extra details

A Taste of Kansas

Putting together this issue was a delicious challenge. In our feature “The Foods That Settled Kansas” on page 36, we set out to highlight the international flavors that have shaped Kansas and the restaurants keeping those traditions alive. However, we quickly realized that we had more restaurants than pages. Here are a few more spots worth seeking out. Pho Hoa One Since 1987, this unassuming, family-owned institution has served some of the state’s most authentic Vietnamese cuisine. Crispy egg rolls, vermicelli noodle bowls, fragrant fried rice, pork chop rice plates and steaming bowls of pho warm customers from the inside out. Its fresh ingredients and carefully balanced flavors have made it a staple for nearly four decades. 713 E. Fulton St., Garden City

the extra details Fair Food Heaven

The Kansas State Fair returns to Hutchinson September 11–20. Don’t miss the state’s biggest celebration with livestock shows, competitive exhibits, grandstand concerts and a thrilling carnival. But the main event will always be the food. Think pretzelwrapped pickles, classic bierocks, lobster corn dogs, s’more-stuffed quesadillas and deep-fried Snickers. Get details at kansasstatefair.gov. Your taste buds will thank you.

Thai Table Regulars are greeted by name over vibrant dishes that combine fresh ingredients with traditional seasonings and light, flavorful sauces. Street-style dishes are made to order with marinated proteins, often tossed in the restaurant’s own spicy sauce. The stir-fried cashew chicken is a light, healthy option, while steamed dumplings arrive with a flourish. 3570 N. Woodlawn Blvd., Suite 100, Wichita Authentic Taste of Jamaica The veteran-owned establishment offers a cozy interior, a full bar, bold flavors and traditions of the Caribbean island. Customers rave about the deep, smoky heat of the signature jerk chicken and the slowcooked jerk pork platters. Pair them with coco bread, fried green plantains or jerk fries for the full experience. 325 Delaware St., Leavenworth

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Around the State 5 4

6 8 2

3 1

1 Arkansas City / page 10 2 Marquette / page 14 3 Humboldt / page 17 4 Nicodemus / page 18

5 Saint Francis / page 27 6 Barnard / page 28 7 Garden City / page 33 8 Hays / page 43

hello F R O M O U R P U B L I S H E R

Food is a remarkable keeper of memory. It holds our recipes, traditions and family stories, and it connects us to the land and every place we gather. That idea comes through beautifully in our cover story “The Foods That Settled Kansas,” where recipes brought across oceans were passed down through generations and became part of the culturally diverse Kansas table. Zwieback, kolaches, bierocks and countless other dishes are more than something good to eat—they tell us who came before, where they came from, and how parts of their homes became parts of ours. But recipes aren’t the only traditions passed down. In southwest Kansas, families are keeping the traditions of charrería alive, carrying horsemanship, music and pageantry from one generation to the next. At Piccalilli Farm near Manhattan, a first-generation family of farmers is creating traditions of their own while building a deeper connection between people and the food they eat. And in Barnard, Barb Rathbun has filled an entire house with more than 9,000 cookbooks, many of which preserve the recipes of families and communities that might otherwise be forgotten. The stories throughout this issue remind us that our heritage isn’t only in the past. We savor it. We celebrate it. We share it—and add our own chapter. And perhaps, someday, the things that feel simply like part of life will become the traditions someone else treasures.

ANDREA ETZEL

PHOTO Andrea Etzel

PUBLISHER, KANSAS! MAGAZINE

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Art and Care in Education Across Kansas

AUGUST 18, 2026 –JANUARY 10, 2027 SPENCER MUSEUM OF ART spencerart.ku.edu

Your Next Great

Discovery

Salina offers more than you might expect. Dynamic art, delicious local restaurants, attractions for the entire family, and all with the Midwestern hospitality you’d expect.

Plan your visit and discover why Salina is more than you think at DiscoverSalina.org

Explore the Great Settlement The new Etzanoa Immersion Center in Arkansas City brings the story of a lost civilization back to life

Story by Beccy Tanner Photography by Aaron Patton

new Kansas center is changing how we see the Native Americans who lived here for centuries—all while digging up new discoveries about their past. “We realized during the pandemic that we have a lot of kids who don’t get to experience history,” says Ann Headrick, a former teacher and Etzanoa Conservancy board member. She is eager to have a place where this chapter of our history can come alive through hands-on learning. The Etzanoa Immersion Center, 28379 81st Rd. in Arkansas City, opened its doors in June 2026. Inside, visitors first see a large screen showing what the Etzanoa settlement might have looked like. Virtual-

reality experiences, artifact exhibits, settlement site tours, outdoor trails and a replica grass house immerse guests in this lost world. It’s all rooted in the 20,000 Etzanoans who lived along the confluence of the Arkansas and Walnut rivers from 1450 to 1700. They built grass-covered homes; cultivated beans, maize and squash; hunted bison; and sustained a community that stretched for miles. Archaeological digs suggest the community maintained a wide-ranging trade network, producing and supplying goods to Native peoples across much of the Northern Hemisphere. For about a decade, the conservancy has worked to deepen public understanding of Etzanoa and its

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Above A large-scale wall graphic shows Juan de Oñate advancing toward Etzanoa with Jusepe Gutiérrez as his guide.

KANSAS DETAILS /

heartland

of the Etzanoans, near what is now Arkansas City. Archaeological excavations have turned up Spanish bullets and cannonballs, along with a water shrine and a Spanish horseshoe nail. Unearthed historical documents reveal that the European explorers called this land “The Great Settlement.” Today, some believe Etzanoa rivals, if not surpasses, the Cahokia Mounds State Historic Site in Illinois—long considered the largest pre-Columbian settlement north of Mexico. Ongoing research and future digs will determine if that is true. What is certain is that by the mid-18th century, the great city had all but disappeared. Arkansas City would be founded in 1870. The conservancy continues to authenticate stories of the settlement while expanding and enhancing what visitors can experience at the center. “It is really nice to know that what we wanted is now finally happening,” Headrick says. Guided tours run on the first and third Saturdays of each month from 9 a.m. to noon, weather permitting. Reservations are recommended. Cost is $15; children age 5 and under are free. The center is open Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., April through September; October through March, the center is open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Regular admission is $6 for children ages 6–12; $12 for adults; and $10 for seniors, military and teachers. An eight-minute, meticulously researched and narrated virtual reality experience of Etzanoa, from the perspective of the Spanish explorers, is available for an additional $10. Group rates are available for large groups and schools. etzanoa.net / 620.666.0069

significance. Now, with the new immersion center, it is forging relationships with the Wichita and Affiliated Tribes, whose ancestors lived in the settlement. Over the summer, tribal members built a model grass house and arbor to demonstrate how the Etzanoans lived and worked. Originally, the conservancy board wanted to raise funds for a new building, but better ideas prevailed, Headrick explains. “We had leased some property, plus we bought some property for the Etzanoa Conservancy,” Headrick says. “A house next door became available. That changed us. We thought, ‘Do we want to build this big building and be in debt? Or, could we buy that house and make it into our immersion center?’” They opted for the house. Donald Blakeslee, the Wichita State University anthropologist and archaeologist who oversaw more than a decade of digs and research at the Arkansas City site, believes Etzanoa is only one piece of a much larger puzzle. A complex of villages linked to Etzanoa stretched from Oklahoma north to Saline County and may have supported as many as 200,000 residents who lived in what is now Cowley, Sumner, Butler, Rice, McPherson and Marion counties. Today, Arkansas City—built atop Etzanoa’s remains—has not even half that population, with 11,750 residents. Spanish conquistadors first encountered the settlement in 1541, when Francisco Vázquez de Coronado explored much of present-day Kansas in search of gold. In 1601, Juan de Oñate led soldiers through this region on a similar quest for wealth. He and 60 to 100 of his men battled 1,500 Excanxaques, enemies Above At the new Etzanoa Immersion Center, visitors can explore replica grass houses or take a virtual eightminute trip through the “The Great Settlement.”

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Distilling a Dream A once-forgotten orchard is now the heart of a small-batch distillery in Baldwin City Story by Debbie Leckron Miller

Photography by Sarah Reeves

KANSAS DETAILS /

cuisine

he apples growing in the orchards at Baldwin City Distillery are more than they first appear. The same holds true for the passionate people who transformed this overgrown, neglected farm into a spirited sanctuary. As one of Kansas’ few microdistilleries, Baldwin City Distillery has carved out a niche with its crop of heirloom apples, which they pick and ferment into apple brandy. “Not many people know about apple brandy,” says Glynis Murphy, the distillery’s founder, president and owner. “There are a million and one whiskeys, vodkas, tequilas and rums, but you don’t see apple brandy often.” The orchard grows 47 different varieties of heirloom apples for making their brandy, giving each batch a unique flavor. Visitors can sip brandy cocktails in the two-year-old distillery’s tasting room or take home a bottle of their own. Just south of Baldwin City, this picturesque property catches the eye of passersby with its tidy orchard, idyllic pond and classic red barn. Amy Adamson, who lives just down the road, visits often. “It’s a place to go to be social, and it’s not showy or in the middle of everything,” she says. “It just feels comfortable. Everybody is there to just relax and enjoy.” The small-batch operation started as the dream of Glynis and her husband, Rory Murphy. Glynis grew up in India, in a family of distillers, and came to the University of Kansas on a scholarship Harvey’s Mule from an Indian philanthropy to earn her To make this refreshing cocktail, master’s degree. She later completed a muddle two lime wedges and two PhD in communicative disorders from apple mint leaves in a copper Wichita State University. At KU, she met mug. If you need to substitute for Rory, a psychiatrist. They married and apple mint, use regular garden raised two children in Overland Park mint, spearmint or peppermint. before facing an empty nest. Add 2 ounces apple brandy, 1½ “We didn’t want to get sucked into a ounces apple mint simple syrup sedentary lifestyle,” Glynis explains. “We or regular simple syrup, and 1½ started looking for farmland where we ounces fresh lime juice. Fill the could work with our hands, enjoy nature, mug with ginger beer and garnish plant apple trees and distill.” with a lime wedge. After five years of searching, they found a property “with character,” Glynis says. Uncovering it, however, proved difficult. The sturdy two-story farmhouse suited Rory’s psychiatric practice and later became the couple’s home, but the overgrown acres were a different matter. “There was an abandoned apple orchard on the land, but we couldn’t see even one tree until we finally stumbled upon one in the brambles,” Glynis remembers. “Thrilled about our discovery, we worked in our free time to clear the unruly grove.” They saved a few original trees and planted 1,500 heirloom apple trees of their own. “We researched root stock, tree heights and which would grow in Kansas, then amended the soil,” she says. “Some of our varieties date back to the 1800s, and each has a wonderful story.”

recipe.

Opposite Glynis Murphy dreamed up Baldwin City Distillery alongside her husband, Rory.

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Above The orchard grows 47 different varieties of heirloom apples for its brandy, which brand ambassador and cocktail connoisseur Katie Wooge mixes into inventive concoctions.

cuisine / K A N S A S D E T A I L S

After securing their distiller’s license, the couple tested their product in 2023 with small test runs. But tragedy struck that summer when Rory passed away, bringing the project to an abrupt halt. Glynis took six months off to weigh her next steps. “Ending the distillery is not what Rory would have wanted, not after putting so much time, effort and love into this beautiful farm,” she says. So she decided to carry on. In 2024, Glynis hired master distiller Daryl Kleitz, whose two decades of experience helped her turn the dream she and Rory shared into reality. She also enlisted Jim Langford, the former Hallmark art director, to design the bottle labels. “Glynis and I are an excellent team,” Kleitz says. “We’ve worked closely to create 30 products within two years.” The distillery now sells bottles on-site and in 32 Kansas liquor stores. Recent brandy releases include cinnamon-vanilla and jalapeño, as well as a peach-vanilla liqueur. Beyond brandy, the distillery makes rum, agave, vodka and bourbon whiskey. On warm days, guests can stroll the grounds with a drink in hand. On cooler days, they can find a cozy seat indoors. Although the distillery doesn’t serve food, brand ambassador Katie Wooge notes that local pizzerias and restaurants deliver. “It’s a tranquil and peaceful experience,” says patron Susan Schiffelbein. “The atmosphere is beautiful, and the drinks are yummy. Glynis is such a knowledgeable, gracious hostess.” Expect a warm welcome at the door. “Glynis always greets me with a hug,” Adamson says. “The whole place is a gem, and Glynis is what makes it shine.” baldwincitydistillery.com / 913.484.4045

The tasting room displays many items of significance, including a first-edition bottle of whiskey for Baker University alumni, a photo of Glynis’ father-in-law, Jerry Murphy, and a memorial to Glynis’ husband, who passed before the distillery opened.

plus.

Dodge City Marquette Baldwin City

Boot Hill Distillery

Dodge City / At this soil-to-sip operation, corn and wheat travel straight from the owner’s fifth-generation family farm to your glass. Whether it’s the 100% wheat whiskey, the handcrafted bourbon, gin or even the ready-to-drink vodka basil lemonade, everything traces its roots back to the Kansas plains. boothilldistillery.com / 620.371.6309

Smoky Valley Distillery

Marquette / Housed in a historic, century-old Farmers Union Co-op building, this distillery now stocks handcrafted vodka, bourbon and whiskey. The family-run operation transforms Kansas grains and sandstone-filtered water from the nearby aquifer into creative concoctions like key lime pie vodka, bourbon old-fashioneds and a unique whiskey made from Kernza grain. Stop by the rustic establishment for tastings, tours, cocktails and bottle sales. smokyvalleydistillery.com / 469.496.1458

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A Parade of Biblical Proportions A 40-foot whale, a free bean feed and a town that knows how to celebrate Story by Cecilia Harris

KANSAS DETAILS /

culture

n 1957, Dr. Arthur Carlson met with his church in Humboldt to discuss how they could draw a large crowd to their upcoming revival. Carlson worried it was a hopeless endeavor, but as he began to pray, a vision took shape. He imagined a parade of floats depicting biblical stories. He eagerly shared the idea with the others, leading to the very first Bible Story Parade in 1958. The following year, the church held a contest to improve upon the event’s name. Vernon Hawver submitted the winning entry: Biblesta, a blend of the words Bible and fiesta. “I saw an imaginary Bible story parade,” Carlson wrote in How Biblesta Came to Be (1998). “I saw Adam and Eve in a beautiful garden. I saw Noah’s ark. I saw Jacob’s ladder with angels on it. I saw Moses carrying a stone slate. I saw the Exodus. I saw a manger scene. I saw a cross. I saw a crucifixion. I saw a resurrection. I saw Paul on the Damascus Road. All of these scenes I imagined. It was stunningly beautiful.” The first Bible Story Parade, according to Carlson’s records, featured 100 costumed participants herding 100 farm animals alongside 23 themed floats and

PHOTOS COURTESY Ethereal Lens Media

Opposite Humboldt’s Biblesta parade draws thousands of visitors each year.

seven marching bands. An estimated 10,000 people turned out to watch the event. Today, the all-day celebration sees 3,000 to 5,000 attendees, according to this year’s event co-chair, Jerry Neeley. Guest speakers, gospel music and children’s activities, including a petting zoo, entertain everyone, while local vendors serve food throughout the day. As evening falls, attendees also enjoy a free ham and bean dinner. But the main attraction remains the parade itself. Alongside walking entries, equestrian units and marching bands, local residents compete for the title of best biblical float. Last year’s entries brought various biblical passages to life: boys jeered the prophet Elisha, wise men followed a star to a humble manger, and Jesus calmed a raging storm with a single command.

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Above The all-day celebration offers a massive parade, guest speakers, gospel music and children’s activities.

culture / K A N S A S D E T A I L S

“The churches and groups who design the floats typically bring a different story every year,” Neeley explains. “They make their own floats. For the most part, they build them from scratch.” Around 30 floats line up in the order their stories appear in the Bible, progressing from Genesis to Revelation. “Throughout the parade route, there are four different places where announcers read from the Bible passage the float focuses on,” Neeley says. “As the float approaches, that’s what people are hearing.” The crowd’s favorite, without question, remains the 40-foot-long Jonah and the Whale float. Jonah peers out from inside the beast while a built-in system shoots water from the whale’s spout, much to the delight of spectators. “It’s an iconic, historic float that starts the parade each year,” Neeley says. “It used to be in the judging for awards, but it was retired and became the mascot.” But the floats do more than entertain: “They bring these Bible stories to life,” Neeley adds. Biblesta always takes place on the first Saturday of October. This year’s 68th annual event will once again take over Humboldt’s town square on October 3. facebook.com/biblestacelebration

Nicodemus, Wabaunsee, Humboldt

plus. African Methodist Episcopal Church and First Baptist Church

Nicodemus / Founded in 1877, Nicodemus—now a National Historic Site—stands as the oldest and only remaining Black settlement west of the Mississippi River. A group of African Americans established the community on five pillars: home, business, education, self-government and church. Two of their original churches are still standing: The Nicodemus African Methodist Episcopal (AME) and First Baptist Church rank among the town’s oldest structures. Mount Pleasant Baptist built a church in the 1890s and sold it to Nicodemus AME in 1910. The church disbanded in 1967, but the National Park Service later stepped in to restore the structure. Now open to visitors, it displays several artifacts from its long history. The First Baptist Church also occupies the historic site, though it remains closed to the public while undergoing its own restoration. Before erecting this limestone structure in 1907, the congregation worshipped in a sod church. First Baptist built a new church in the mid-1970s and is still active at that location today. nps.gov/nico/index.htm / 785.839.4233

Beecher Bible and Rifle Church

Wabaunsee / When the Kansas-Nebraska Bill passed in 1854, it left the fate of slavery to a popular vote. Advocates from both sides flooded into the territory to sway the decision, including members of the Connecticut-Kansas Colony, who arrived with 25 Bibles and 25 Sharps rifles for protection. The scriptures and firearms came from prominent New York minister and abolitionist Henry Ward Beecher. The colonists who received them helped establish the Beecher Bible and Rifle Church in 1857. This limestone structure is one of the earliest permanent church buildings in Kansas, according to the Library of Congress. In 1950, it became the state’s first interracial Congregational Church. The church still holds regular services. visitwamego.com / 785.456.7849

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Above Around 30 floats bring biblical passages to life as they compete for the top prize.

All Aboard the Trails! These repurposed railways offer the ultimate outdoor escape Story and photography by Michael Pearce

ecades after the last locomotives rolled through Kansas, abandoned railways now offer some of the state’s finest trails for hikers, cyclists and horseback riders. Gone are the iron rails, bulky wooden railroad ties and fist-sized stone bedding. In their place stretch miles of fine limestone chips packed to a sidewalk-like smoothness. These rail-trails sweep across vast expanses of Kansas countryside. Encounters with other trail users are rare, and aside from the occasional quick road crossing, interactions with automobile traffic are practically nonexistent. “I always feel so much safer not having to deal with traffic, and knowing I’m around like-minded people,” says Jeff Dorsett, an avid cyclist from Osawatomie. “On [rail-trails], my mind just relaxes and I get into a rhythm. It makes it so much easier to enjoy nature and totally relax.”

Kansas currently boasts 284 miles of public rail-trails, says Clark Coan of the Sunflower RailTrails Conservancy. His group, along with similar organizations, hopes to add another 290 miles of converted rail lines for public enjoyment. Yet every mile of finished trail demands hundreds of hours of work and thousands of dollars. Nearly all the labor comes from volunteers, and funding often arrives sporadically through grants and donations. Even though some trails have taken decades to finish, most agree they have all been worth the wait. Here are some of the state’s top rail-trails.

Flint Hills Trail State Park: The Flint Hills Trail is the longest in Kansas, and the eighth-longest rail-trail in the United States. Stretching 93 miles of traversable road between Osawatomie and Council Grove, it follows the former Missouri Pacific Railroad. Its 2025 induction into the Rail-Trail

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Above Cyclist Scott Allen pauses for a rest on the Flint Hills Trail, just a few miles west of Bushong.

KANSAS DETAILS /

air

Hall of Fame brought it national attention. Dorsett, who also coowns Freedom’s FrontTire in Osawatomie, has met cyclists from at least 30 states along the trail. The most popular stretch may be the 15 miles between Council Grove and Bushong, which cuts through the heart of the Flint Hills. The 20-mile segment from Ottawa to Osawatomie, which traces the Marais des Cygnes River and features steep, Ozark-like ridges, protection from heavy winds and miles of shady tree tunnels, also makes for a memorable journey. Several small towns now cater to trail users, offering brew pubs, eateries and a variety of lodging options along the way. Funding has already been secured to complete the trail, focusing on the 25 miles from Council Grove to Herington.

Landon Trail: When complete, this 38-mile trail, built on the former corridor of the Missouri Pacific Railroad, will connect Topeka to the Flint Hills Trail. Right now, it kicks off at the Brown v. Board of Education National Historical Park in Topeka and winds 12 miles south through countryside, including a lovely stretch near the Clinton Wildlife Area, before hitting a gap. The trail picks back up in Overbrook where it continues another 7.3 miles.

Prairie Spirit Trail State Park: The first major rail-trail in Kansas, and the first to link multiple Kansas communities, the Prairie Spirit Trail recently celebrated its 30th anniversary. Running 53 miles north to south from Ottawa to Iola, it was built upon the former track bed of the historic Leavenworth, Lawrence and Fort Gibson Railroad, later the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway. This peaceful path cuts through long expanses of farm country, opens onto tallgrass prairie and crosses bridges over clear, rapidly moving streams that most people would never guess exist in Kansas.

Blue River Trail: Everyone who’s pedaled this 13-mile stretch from Marysville to the Nebraska border tosses around nothing but superlatives. The tremendous support from locals, businesses and city leaders keeps the trail looking immaculate. Crossing into Nebraska, it keeps rolling another 30-plus miles north. Meadowlark Trail: Recently opened, this 13-mile trail crosses rural Kansas countryside as it links McPherson and Lindsborg. Plan a stop in Lindsborg, a town with a long-standing tourism mindset. You’ll find good signage, fun attractions, delicious dining and a few smaller local trails to explore. Pop into city hall to rent a three-speed bike at a fair price, far below what you’d pay at most bicycle shops. Prairie Sunset Trail: This fun and easily accessible 15-mile trail connects Wichita to Garden Plain. Conveniently located just 5 miles from downtown Wichita, it offers plenty of easy entry points into the city alongside some lovely stretches of open countryside. kansastrails.org / 785.842.3458

Above Rail-trails offer the perfect escape, where other users are few and the countryside rolls on for miles.

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captured / K A N S A S D E T A I L S

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KANSAS DETAILS /

captured

Finney County

“My grandma’s house sits just past the Brookover Feed Yard in Garden City, and I’ve spent many summers and spring breaks there with her. We always talked about taking a picture of that familiar sight we drive past every day, and turning it into printed gifts for the family. One weekend, when I was spending time with her and I remembered to bring my camera, she drove me right up to the feedlot so I could snap the shot. It’s symbolic in a way, those words painted on the grain elevators behind the cows. The photo makes me think of Western Kansas. It makes me think of home.”

–Becca Unruh

Becca Unruh / Photographer beccaunruhphoto.mypixieset.com BeccaUnruh.Photo BeccaUnruh.Photo @BeccaUnruhPhoto

Becca Unruh captured this image with a Canon R6 Mark II. She’s always been a creative person with endless hobbies. Five years ago, she bought her first camera, started taking pictures and never stopped. It’s been the perfect outlet for unleashing her creativity and connecting with incredible people across Kansas.

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Kansas REASONS WE LOVE

By Cecilia Harris

St. Francis, Wilson, McPherson, Lyndon, Mission

IN THIS ISSUE

Food Shacks

No reservations. No frills. Just good food with a side of small-town charm.

KANSAS DETAILS /

reasons we love kansas

THE SNACK SHACK Wilson / Gone are the Depression-era lunchrooms, quickly constructed under tarpaper roofs serving one-pot meals to hungry workers. Today’s “shack” restaurants are fast, casual spots that serve up straightforward, crowd-pleasing fare like burgers, steak and sweet treats—all at reasonable prices. For more than 60 years, the Snack Shack in Wilson has served such all-American classics to generations of customers. With its welcoming, family-friendly atmosphere, the restaurant holds a special place in the heart of many Kansans, including its owners, Roger and Sandy Robinson. “I always compared it to [the 1970s television series] Happy Days,” Roger says, “or [the 1973 movie] American Graffiti—kids hanging out in the evenings, grabbing burgers, ice cream cones or shakes.” As a young man, Roger was a regular at the Snack Shack. The couple’s daughter even worked there for a while. So when the Snack Shack went up for sale a few years ago, the retired educators couldn’t stand to watch it close. Instead, they bought the longtime establishment in 2022. “It used to be open only in the summers,” Sandy says. “And it only served ice cream and burgers. But now we have specials—fried chicken, chicken fried steak, liver and onions, and fajitas are some of the daily specials.” Today, the restaurant—its nostalgia-inducing 1960s checkered floor intact—stays open year-round. The classic hamburger still tops the list of customer favorites. “They are made to order so the customers can dress them any way they want,” she adds. “The ladies are cooking right there in front of you, so you can watch your food being made.” Alongside the traditional preparation, the menu features two specialty burger options: the Dragon Burger, with two patties, pepper jack cheese and jalapeños; and the Harvest Burger, with two patties, American cheese, an onion ring and barbecue sauce.

PHOTOS PHOTOS Nick Tanner Krug Colvin

“A lot of people pick that one,” Sandy says. She also recommends the large, hand-breaded pork tenderloin sandwich served on sourdough bread, as well as their taco salad. “It’s very popular,” she notes, “and we make our own chips to go with it.” For something a little more unusual, the fried green beans, fried cauliflower, candied jalapeños, and cowboy corn nuggets all make great snacks—the nuggets even have a little spice to them. The new sweet shop tempts dessert lovers with fresh-baked cookies, cakes and homemade pies. Of course, the Snack Shack still offers its classic sweet treats: soft-serve ice cream, shakes, malts and sundaes. And don’t miss the Tornado, a thick, creamy softserve ice cream blended with a variety of mix-ins. The Snack Shack—perched on the southeast side of town near the railroad tracks—draws both local community members and travelers cruising down Interstate 70, which sits just north of the small town. Most are simply looking for a quick bite. “We do get a number of people that stop in off the interstate,” Roger says. “Some will do the Google thing because they like to stop at mom-and-pop places. It’s nice to talk to them and see why they are here.” Over the years, Roger has watched all kinds of vehicles roll into the parking lot, including road graders, semi-trailer trucks, farm machinery, automobiles and pickups of every make, and even a hearse. “There’s just not many places to eat in rural areas,” Roger adds. “We provide a service by being open year-round. People stop in regularly because they know we’ll be here.” Facebook: The-Snack-Shack / 785.658.2600

25 KANSAS! magazine

Scott Bean Photography

K A N S A S L A N D S C A P E A N D N AT U R E P H O T O G R A P H S

HOPP’S SNO SHACK McPherson / Billing itself as “the place to cool down,” Hopp’s Sno Shack in McPherson is known for its massive selection of finely shaven snow cones—so fine, some say it resembles real winter snow. Customers can either choose from more than 100 syrup combinations to craft their own custom blend at no extra cost, or sample the flavor of the week. The shack’s teenage employees often dream up these playful seasonal flavors. Now celebrating its 15th year, Hopp’s Sno Shack is open May through August. For updates on upcoming farmers market, concerts, fundraisers and other community events the Sno Shack hosts, check out its Facebook page. Facebook: HoppsSnoShack / 620.241.0077

785-341-1047 | SCOTT@SCOTTBEANPHOTO.COM

www.scottbeanphoto.com

For ice shaved so fine it mimics real winter snow, head to Hopp’s Sno Shack in McPherson. This colorful little shack oozes summer vibes with more than 100 tasty combinations to choose from. Grab a refreshing treat, cool down and watch for community events popping up all season long.

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THE BURGER SHACK DINER Lyndon / Tony and Tina Horne are often asked one question whenever they work at Tony’s food trailer: “Do you have a brick-and-mortar place where I can get these smashburgers year-round?” Since early 2026, when the couple opened the Burger Shack Diner in Lyndon, the Hornes have been able to answer with a resounding yes. The new standalone restaurant embraces 1950s charm with a black-and-white checkered floor, a vintage automobile mural, Elvis memorabilia, drive-in movie theater posters, and other retro touches. The Angus smashburgers remain the most popular item, with the Oklahoma Smash leading the charge. It’s a hamburger patty smashed directly into a bed of onions sizzling on the flat-top griddle. The menu also offers wings, Philly cheesesteaks, and catfish and shrimp baskets, plus daily specials. For dessert, customers can indulge in sweet treats like soft-serve or hand-scooped ice cream, banana splits or milkshakes served in 1950s glassware. Facebook: The Burger Shack Diner / 785.828.3886

26 KANSAS! magazine

CADDY SHACK BAR AND GRILL Saint Francis / One of Saint Francis’s first fire stations has recently found new life as a casual spot for classic comfort food. The Caddy Shack Bar and Grill now welcomes guests with plenty of patio space complete with televisions and corn hole pits. Although the restaurant earns its reputation for ribeye and New York strip steaks— typically served on weekends—it also keeps things fresh with daily specials. Burgers, pizza, shrimp platters, quesadillas, chicken fried steak and salads round out the menu. But the Caddy Shack doesn’t stop there. It also draws crowds with its specialty cocktails and excellent beer selection. facebook.com/caddyshacksf / 785.821.4688

N o t h i n g says fa l l l i ke

DELI CIO US FAL L FAM ILY FUN AT THE

Two burgers steal the show at Mission’s Snack Shack on Johnson Drive. Order the Bobby, piled high with grilled onions and jalapeños, or try the Downtowner, topped with barbecue sauce and a crispy onion ring. THE SNACK SHACK ON JOHNSON DRIVE Mission / A classic neighborhood burger joint, the Snack Shack on Johnson Drive sticks to the tried-and-true. Alongside burgers, fries and shakes, the vintage diner’s most popular item is its seasoned Certified-Angus beef burger, cooked the old-fashioned way—smashed on a flat-top griddle, then nestled into a bun with crisp, handprepped lettuce, freshly sliced tomato, onion and pickles. Among the shack’s specialty burgers, the Bobby and the Downtowner steal the show. The Bobby piles on two patties, double cheese, grilled onions, grilled jalapeños, lettuce and tomato, while the Downtowner features one patty with grilled onions, cheddar cheese, an onion ring and barbecue sauce. The fries come out perfectly golden, fried in beef tallow, and the old-school shakes, including chocolate, vanilla and strawberry, can get an extra boost with crushed Oreo pieces. The Snack Shack itself is an authentic Valentine diner, built in Wichita and transported to Mission. It retains its historic look, transporting diners back in time with a black-and-red-checkered floor and classic counter, stools, tables and chairs. Facebook: The Snack Shack on Johnson Drive 913.381.3200

27 KANSAS! magazine

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Hello Hello

Haysville Great Things are Happening in Haysville! HELLOHAYSVILLE.COM DISCOVER MORE

The Cookbook House T H AT

B A R B

B U I LT

When Barb Rathbun’s collection of cookbooks outgrew the garage, she gave it a home of its own—now open to visitors who call ahead Story by Katherine Dinsdale

Photography by Tanner Colvin

WIDE OPEN

spaces

Opposite When Barb Rathbun’s cookbook collection outgrew 50 bins, she moved it into a new home. Today, the number has grown to more than 9,000 titles. Above Inside the Cookbook House in Barnard, Rathbun shows off the titles lining her shelves.

arb Rathbun has been collecting cookbooks for a long time. “Not that I cook a lot,” she says, with a slight grin. “When my first kid moved out, I put up some shelves in their room,” she adds. “That became my library. And, as with any addiction, things got out of hand. I began stacking older cookbooks in bins and began to think about completing certain sets like the Taste of Home Annual Cookbooks.” Before long, she hit a milestone: 50 bins of cookbooks packed away in the garage. Then Rathbun had an idea. Her husband’s aunt, Mary, had recently moved to Texas—leaving a quaint cottage only three blocks away from her home in Barnard. “When my first kid moved out, I put “I’d always liked the look of it,” up some shelves in their room. That Rathbun says, her voice turning a little dreamy. “I asked Mary, ‘What will you became my library. And, as with any take for this house?’ Mary named an addiction, things got out of hand. incredibly reasonable price, not only for this house but for the one next door and I began stacking older cookbooks the four lots across the street.” in bins and began to think about Rathbun eagerly accepted. She completing certain sets like the Taste thought it would be wonderful to have a cozy place for her kids to stay whenever of Home Annual Cookbooks.” they visited, and that the house next –BARB RATHBUN door might be a good place to store her cookbook collection. promptly sent a written thank-you note, but “I walked in the door and fell in love. The it took another four or five months before she light flowed in and just lit up that wall,” she says, actually opened the cookbook. That’s when she sweeping her hand to the front room’s main wall, found a wad of cash Rathbun had tucked inside now lined top to bottom with cookbooks. for “buying ingredients.” Today, Rathbun runs the Cookbook House in Rathbun understood the delay. “Why open Barnard as its sole proprietor. a cookbook,” she muses, “when you can find “In the beginning, I thought that one wall 500 recipes for roast duck on your phone in would be plenty of space for my whole collection,” three seconds?” she says. “One of my grandsons, who was 13 at Rathbun, like her granddaughter, has learned the time, helped me build shelves. Then I began that cookbooks often hold unexpected treasures. picking up more sets of shelves that people would While at a rummage sale, a friend picked up leave at their curb. a cookbook published to celebrate Sawyer’s “I began organizing cookbooks by author, but centennial. She gave it to Rathbun, who opened I discovered that if you get too detailed in trying the slim volume and found an autograph from to organize the collection, it just becomes a job. I the legendary chef and TV personality Julia Child decided to just let the organizing happen or not herself. “Keep on cooking and writing recipes,” happen like it’s going to happen.” Child wrote. “It’s a great hobby.” Over the years, Rathbun’s collection has Unexpected Treasures grown to more than 9,000 volumes. She owns A few years ago, Rathbun gave one of her community-compiled cookbooks from nearly granddaughters, who was soon to be married, every Kansas county and has cookbooks from a brand-new cookbook as a gift. The bride-to-be

29 KANSAS! magazine

WIDE OPEN

recipe. Frog Eye Salad The drive to Barnard winds through the rolling green hills of the Salt Creek Valley. In this tiny town, locals often gather for community potlucks. Barb Rathbun loves to bring her favorite dish to these events: Frog Eye Salad. This retro classic lands just as comfortably on the salad table as it does the dessert table. Its unusual name comes from the tiny acini de pepe pasta used in the dish. Variations of this recipe appeared in countless cookbooks throughout the 1970s. Yield: 10 servings INGREDIENTS

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

1¾ cups pineapple juice 1 cup sugar 2 large eggs, beaten 2 tablespoons flour ½ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 (16-ounce) box acini de pepe, cooked as directed on box and cooled 1 (20-ounce) can crushed pineapple 2 (20-ounce) cans pineapple tidbits 3 (11-ounce) cans mandarin oranges, drained 8 ounces whipped topping 1 cup miniature marshmallows 1 cup shredded coconut

INSTRUCTIONS

one. In a saucepan, combine pineapple

juice, sugar, eggs, flour and salt. Cook over medium heat until thickened, stirring continuously. Remove from heat. two. Stir in lemon juice. Set aside to cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. three. In a large bowl, combine egg mixture with pasta, crushed pineapple, pineapple tidbits, mandarin oranges and whipped topping. Mix well, then refrigerate until chilled, 8 hours to overnight. four. Before serving, toss with coconut and marshmallows, and serve.

spaces

every state except two. Sure, she admits, she could go online and order the missing titles to complete her collections—but there’s really no need. “I don’t need to spend money to acquire cookbooks,” she says. “I’ve been blessed with so many donations. I get collections from grandmothers when [their] kids find out libraries don’t want them. The cookbooks just show up. People’s eyes light up when they come in and find their county’s recipes in a book, or their grandma’s tried-and-true recipe for a favorite dessert.” Whenever a friend asks her to hunt down something specific— say, a recipe for rhubarb custard pie—Rathbun has plenty of places to look. She often starts with one of the classics: Betty Crocker, Better Homes and Gardens, Pillsbury, Campbell’s, Gooseberry, Southern Living or Good Housekeeping. But she could also pull from one of the thousands of books in her immense library. Poring through the shelves, I spy some real finds: Cook in Your Coffee Pot, a guide to whipping up meals in a standard drip coffee maker; Fifty Shades of Chicken, a tongue-incheek culinary parody that frames 50 poultry recipes within a steamy narrative; and What Would Jesus Eat?, a historical study of healthy foods commonly eaten in biblical times. The collection doesn’t stop there. Rathbun has also shelved Big Mama’s Old Black Pot, a vintage Southern cookbook packed with short stories and folklore; a collection of recipes from American rap artist Snoop Dogg; a spiral-bound copy of Home at the Range, featuring practical recipes from Oakley community members; and Being Dead is No Excuse: The Official Southern Ladies Guide to Hosting the Perfect Funeral. Microwave cookbooks are scattered here and there, too, but Rathbun warns, “When you follow those recipes, nothing tastes good.” A deeper look inside the house reveals even more cherished mementos. One wall features a bulletin board pinned with recipes from Rathbun and her mother. Near the kitchen, several classic colorfully printed metal recipe boxes line the shelves, while vintage

30 KANSAS! magazine

Above Inspired by the tree wraps at the Smoky Hill River Festival in Salina, Rathbun transformed her collection of coffee mugs into an art installation outside the Cookbook House.

coffee pots and some prime examples of Tupperware sit atop another. Beyond the cookbooks, the back room houses a collection of Coca-Cola memorabilia alongside National Geographic magazines spanning from 1948 to 2025. Cherishing the Community Rathbun grew up on a farm in Tescott, where she and her siblings spent their mornings milking cows and loading milk onto trucks headed for the local cheese factory—all before heading off to school. In 1976, she married and moved to Barnard. She worked in economic development at the Lincoln County courthouse, holding the position of county secretary for years. Since 1982, she has served as Barnard’s city clerk, a job she handles from a city office on Monday mornings and from home the rest of the week. She and her husband share a blended family of five children, plus another son they happily “acquired” along the way. She rattles off the status and whereabouts of all the grown kids, 12 grandchildren and 10 great-grandchildren without missing a beat. Her children often suggest she enter into the Guinness World Records. “I definitely have enough cookbooks to do that,” she says with a laugh, “but they want spreadsheets to verify what I have. I told my kids, ‘No! Good Lord!’ I want this place just for me. I want it to be fun and an attraction that benefits the community.” Today, the Cookbook House is open to the public by appointment only. Rathbun does her part to keep the neighborhood looking nice, and she cherishes her small community of Barnard—population 64—along with the steady stream of new faces who walk through her door. Sitting on a red upholstered love seat, surrounded by walls of floor-to-ceiling shelves packed with cookbooks, Rathbun says what matters most is simply this: she is content. People often suggest grander plans such as expanding the house, opening a café or turning it into a bed and breakfast. “No way,” she says matter-of-factly. “Then it would become a job. There would be all kinds of paperwork. I don’t want to charge anybody anything.” Since opening a decade ago, the Cookbook House has welcomed more than 1,000 visitors from 13 states. But for Rathbun, the real reward is the connections she has made along the way. She loves meeting new people and watching them browse her shelves. “I remember one husband saying to his wife, when he saw all the cookbooks, ‘Honey, I’m not saying nothing about your collection ever again,’” she recalls. She wouldn’t have it any other way. Facebook: The Cookbook House / 785.792.6256 Above Other collections line the walls of Rathbun’s Cookbook House, including Coca-Cola memorabilia, National Geographic issues and rows of coffee mugs.

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Riding with Tradition Southwest Kansas families celebrate their heritage through charrería, a vibrant combination of horsemanship, competition and pageantry Story and photography by Rachael Sebastian

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as was his father before him. It was only natural he sun sets over the lienzo charro on that Gutierrez became a charra. Garden City’s south side, but for Valeria Declared Mexico’s national sport in 1933, Gutierrez and her tall black horse, the charrería is a cultural tradition that came night’s work is just beginning. from the 19th-century practice of livestock Gutierrez has spent a lot of time at her herding and ranching. Today, it is best known family’s lienzo, a specialized equestrian arena for its colorful festivities, traditional costumes that hosts charreadas. It’s where she mastered and high-energy live music. the art of escaramuza, a The sport revolves around synchronized equestrian equestrian events you don’t sport that demands flawless typically see in Americanhorsemanship from a team style rodeos. It celebrates of women riding in perfect CHARREADA? Mexican ranching and unison. It’s also where she horsemanship with a special comes to practice ballet The charrería tradition features focus on the bond between folklórico, a traditional several events for charros and charras riders and horses—and on Mexican dance with vibrant, to take part in. Here are some of the passing these values from one flowy skirts. most popular ones. generation to the next. Tonight, she’s painted • Cala de Caballo: Demonstrating The Gutierrez family herself as a catrina, the various movements like a full is among many southwest traditional skull-faced figure gallop, sudden stop and reverse Kansans who take part of Día de los Muertos, or walk, this event tests the horse in charrería. This region Day of the Dead, celebrated and rider’s control. has a high concentration by Hispanic families on • Coleadero: From horseback, riders of Hispanic families who November 2. must catch a running bull by his have lived here for at least At 25, Gutierrez tail and pull it to the ground. seven generations. And with represents one thread • Escaramuza: This synchronized Garden City and southwest in Garden City’s larger team event exudes elegance and Kansas sitting at the heart of fabric—a weave of cultures grace as all-women teams of eight an agriculture hub, a varied and traditions that perform fast, complex maneuvers background exists among its originated beyond the while riding sidesaddle. cowboys, ranchers, feedyard border but have become a • Jineteo de Toro: Similar to pen riders and others who part of southwest Kansas’ American rodeos, charros mount work closely with livestock. identity. It’s a vibrant bulls and try to stay on for as Over the years, she has mix, rooted in religion long as they can or until it stops seen an uptick in popularity and native traditions, bucking in this event. with charreada competitions where people work closely • Terna en el Ruedo: Three charros in southwest Kansas. alongside animals. work together to rope a bull and Gutierrez used to regularly “My dancing, my bring it to a complete stop. take part in the escaramuza horsemanship, celebrating • Paso de la Muerte: This daring competitions but has less Día de los Muertos,” stunt features a courageous time for it now that she’s a Gutierrez says, “it’s all a part charro who leaps from his moving mom working full-time at of my family’s traditions.” horse to the bare back of a wild Gravity Wellness Spa. But Those traditions have mare without using reins. practicing this style of riding kept Gutierrez horseback • Piales en el Lienzo: To test the and dancing ballet folklórico in the arena, where rider’s accuracy and speed, the grounds her and ties her back intricate costumery and charro must rope a wild running to her roots. horsemanship precision mare by her hind legs to bring her “I got involved in this like meet in a sport now three to a stop. my dad. He was born into it, generations deep in her and so was I. And my mom is family. Her father is a the dancer,” she says. “When charro, a Mexican cowboy,

What Happens at a

Opposite Valeria Gutierrez rides her horse through her family’s lienzo.

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Upcoming Events! The Gutierrez family will host the following charreadas at their lienzo, El Milagro. SEPTEMBER 26 - St. Mary’s Parish Rodeo OCTOBER 10 - Final rodeo of the season my dad was younger, it obviously wasn’t as luxurious as it is today. Whatever he had, he made the best out of it. I just followed my parents’ roots and traditions, and that’s how I became a part of it all.” It’s a similar story for Efrain Ramirez, who goes by Pewee. He began competing in charreadas in 2013 and now practices with a team in Dodge City. Ramirez adores the intricacy of the tack and outfits worn by charros. He gets his sombrero de charro—the iconic wide-brimmed hat worn by traditional Mexican horsemen— from Mexico City and his silla charra—the traditional Mexican horse saddle used for these events—from Jalisco, Mexico. Several events take place at a charreada, from roping mares to riding and tripping steers. “My favorite part has to be the steer tripping,” he says. Over the past five to seven years, he’s watched the event grow into a major competition, drawing riders from across the country to compete for “bigtime money.” “I’ve dedicated a lot of my time mastering this skill,” he says. “I placed fifth out of 100 guys in Texas recently—it’s really something.” In steer tripping, charros ride by the steer, grab it by the tail and trip it. At a ranch, steer tripping is a Above Traditions born across the border, including ballet folklórico and charreadas, are now part of southwest Kansas’ cultural identity.

practical maneuver that is used whenever an animal needs to be doctored out on the range, where pens are not nearby. These events are similar to what you might find at a traditional rodeo or ranch rodeo. That’s what ties it all together. “At the end of the day, it’s all related,” Gutierrez says. “It’s all about how you handle your horse, and the care you put into handling livestock. It’s all rodeo.”

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Opposite Efrain Ramirez practices roping mares with his team in Dodge City.

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THE FOODS THAT

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PHOTO Sarah Reeves

SETTLED KANSAS Mennonite zwiebacks, Czech kolaches and German bierocks are more than comfort food. They are the edible legacy of the families who made Kansas home. Story by Beccy Tanner & Meta West

Faith and food settled the Kansas prairie.

PHOTOS Aaron Patton

In 1854, Kansas became a territory; by 1861, it was a state. But it was the Homestead Act of 1862 that truly filled the prairie, drawing waves of immigrants with the promise of land. For many, the vast plains became a refuge for their faith and a safe space to recreate the tastes of home. Miles from the nearest town, these settlers could butcher, bake and brew as they liked. In that silence and space, the flavors of old countries took root in new ground. As a result, Kansas has never been just meat and potatoes. From bierocks and verenika to lingonberry jam and arepas, our plates have always told a story of diversity. Native Kansan Clementine Paddleford, who shaped the nation’s food writing in the first half of the 20th century, said it best: “We all have hometown appetites. Every other person is a bundle of longing for the simplicities of good taste once enjoyed on the farm or in the hometown they left behind.”

Volga Germans

Jägerschnitzel

Driven by instability in Russia, the Volga Germans made their way to the Kansas prairie in the 1870s. The first major wave arrived by train in Topeka, but most pushed westward and settled in Ellis and Rush counties. They left their mark on the state in many ways. Like the Mennonites, they brought Turkey Red wheat seeds. More notably, the Volga Germans baked bierocks—yeast pastry dough filled with meat and cabbage—alongside kuchen, a sweet pastry dough similar to brioche that is rolled thin and pressed into a cake pan, and grebble, their take on the doughnut. They also brought along their brewing traditions, crafting lagers, pilsners and ales over the years. Today, you can still taste their award-winning recipes at local breweries and Oktoberfests across the state.

PROST Stepping through the doors at Prost in Wichita feels like stepping into a traditional Bavarian biergarten. Communal tables, lively music, decorative steins and time-honored traditions create an inviting atmosphere that celebrates southern German hospitality. Owners Manu and Austin English take particular pride in their beer selection. They only serve German imports that follow Reinheitsgebot, the German beer purity law first enacted in 1516. Prost’s menu showcases German specialties like crispy bratwurst, kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes), jägerschnitzel and house-made bierocks. Other traditional favorites include currywurst, spätzle (egg noodles), red cabbage and warm apple strudel. For German native Manu, authenticity begins in the kitchen. “Everything is made from scratch using the freshest ingredients,” she says. “No frozen entrées or desserts here.” 134 N. St. Francis, Wichita / 316.260.3220 LEFT German fare like bierocks and kartoffelpuffer takes center stage at Prost in Wichita.

MEET THE

Mennonites

In the 1870s, thousands of Mennonites also fled southern Russia (now Ukraine) to escape military conscription and religious persecution. Arriving in Kansas carrying jars, sacks and chests brimming with seeds from their homes, they went on to found congregations near what are now Goessel, Inman, Buhler and Moundridge. Among those seeds was Turkey Red wheat, a hardy, coldtolerant crop that proved to be a game changer. It thrived despite Kansas’ extreme droughts, heat and frost. Today, half of the wheat grown in the state can trace its lineage back to those original kernels. This variety is best for baking structured loaves and stars in the community’s most iconic dishes: zwieback, yeast rolls often made by stacking small rolls on top of larger ones; and verenika, dumplings stuffed with farmer’s cheese and served with ham and a rich white gravy. In the 1870s, Katy Reinecker’s great-great-grandfather, Johann Thiessen, helped found the Zoar Mennonite Brethren Church in Inman. Today, she and her husband, Nick, operate the Inman Harvest Café, a restaurant that proudly serves Mennonite fare. For Reinecker, food and faith run in her blood, and her menu reflects that heritage. Reinecker recalls that as she was growing up, central Kansas was home to half a dozen restaurants serving verenika. Today, only three remain: Inman Café, Carolyn’s Essenhaus in Arlington, and LaVon’s Bakery & BBQ in Buhler. “I don’t know how long our [culinary] traditions will last,” Reinecker says. “Probably not as long as I would like because it’s hard to make and labor-intensive. … It’s an all-day affair.”

INMAN HARVEST CAFÉ Part gathering place, part culinary time capsule, Inman Harvest Café feeds both local families and curious travelers craving authentic Mennonite cooking. The menu leans into hearty dishes made from scratch using locally sourced ingredients whenever possible. Even the horseradish sauce is handmade. House specialties include verenika, zwieback rolls, and Mennonite-German sausage ropes— made on-site, lightly seasoned and served with sauerkraut, mashed potatoes and gravy, and hash browns. The motto “real ingredients for real people” guides operators Katy and Nick Reinecker. Katy sources her flour from the Stafford County Flour Mill, an hour east of Inman, and follows generations-old family recipes for baked goods that anchor every Mennonite kitchen. 112 S. Main St., Inman / 620.585.6925

POPCORN SALAD Practical, thrifty, and built from pantry staples, popcorn salad is simple, satisfying and made to feed a crowd. Its creamy crunch mirrors the mild, hearty flavors Mennonite cooking is known for. Whether it lands at a community potluck, church dinner, family reunion or the Inman Harvest Café’s salad bar, it never fails to start a conversation. INGREDIENTS

Dressing • 1 cup real mayonnaise • ¼ cup granulated sugar • 1½ teaspoons apple cider vinegar Salad • 3⅓ ounces popcorn (or 1 bag microwave popcorn) • 4 ounces water chestnuts, drained and diced • ½ cup diced yellow or white onion • 1 cup diced celery • ¼ pound bacon, fried crisp, drained and crumbled • 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese INSTRUCTIONS

one. Combine dressing ingredients in a jar and set aside. The dressing is best if refrigerated overnight. two. Pop the popcorn and remove any unpopped kernels. Let cool completely and set aside. three. In a large bowl, gently combine dressing with water chestnuts, onion, celery, bacon and cheese. four. Add popcorn to the bowl 10 to 15 minutes before serving to keep popcorn crisp. This salad holds up for several hours but becomes mushy if stored in the refrigerator overnight. Make only the desired amount needed for a meal or gathering.

Czech Cuisine Thanks to František Švehla, a homesteader who advertised affordable, fertile farmland in Czech-language newspapers, many Czech immigrants put down roots in Kansas, primarily in Cuba and Wilson. Considered Kansas’ Czech capital, Wilson honors its heritage each year by hosting the After Harvest Czech Festival, held the last weekend in July. This multi-day celebration draws thousands of visitors with its parade, pageant, traditional music and a chance to see the city’s 20-foot-tall, handpainted Czech egg. Best of all, the festival overflows with traditional Czech cuisine and features the beloved kolache-eating contest.

N&J CAFÉ

WHAT ARE KOLACHES?

Kolaches are a testament to the resourcefulness and creativity of early Czechs, who transformed everyday bread into something special. Often topped with apricot, cherry, prune, poppy seed or cottage cheese, these sweet, pillow-soft buns play a starring role in Wilson’s After Harvest Czech Festival. “We make 2,500 kolaches [for the event] every year,” says Dorothy Brokes, president of St. Wenceslaus Catholic Church’s Altar Society. If you can’t make it to the festival but find yourself craving one of these sweet treats, you can still find them at several spots in Wilson. The Midland Railroad Hotel & Restaurant offers kolaches year-round with its continental breakfast and at the on-site bakery. Its versions come topped with posypka, a crumbly, streusel-like mixture. The restaurant’s baker has also created a version made with Kernza flour, a high-protein dough that bursts with a molasseslike flavor. Made From Scratch, a family-style café off I-70, and Kansas Originals Market, a nonprofit showcase for Kansas artists, craftsmen, authors and food producers, also sell kolaches. • • •

Kansas Originals Market / 2519 Ave E., Wilson / 785.658.2602 Made From Scratch / 527 27th St., Wilson / 785.658.3300 Midland Railroad Hotel & Restaurant / 414 26th St., Wilson / 785.658.2284

Lebanon

For 35 years, making guests feel at home has been the hallmark of N&J Café in Wichita. Co-owner Nick Srour says such hospitality is deeply rooted in Lebanese culture. It starts the moment guests are seated, when baskets of freshly baked pita bread and chips are delivered to every table. “Dad started the bakery and later the restaurant,” Srour says of his father, co-owner John Srour. “We continue to use the authentic recipes he brought with him when he immigrated to the U.S.” Lebanese recipes lean heavily on citrusy flavors and aromatic spices. Imported ingredients, available at the adjoining market, go into traditional favorites like hummus, stuffed grape leaves, falafels and tabbouleh. But N&J also likes to mix things up, serving kafta patties on hamburger buns or turning pita into pizza. Shawarma—that signature Middle Eastern dish of slow-roasted meat sliced thin off a vertical broiler— appears in a variety of forms and stars in many of N&J’s monthly specials, including chicken shawarma taquitos. 5600 E. Lincoln St., Wichita / 316.681.3975

A LOOK AT

Wichita quickly emerged as the heart of Kansas’ Lebanese community. In the 1890s, thousands of immigrants fled the province of Syria (modernday Lebanon and Syria) to escape religious persecution and chase economic opportunities. They worked their way along southern Kansas and established themselves as Wichita’s leading entrepreneurs, grocers and restaurateurs. Today, Lebanese restaurants still anchor much of Wichita’s dining scene, where locals load their plates with traditional dishes. Think baba ghanoush (the smoky eggplant cousin to hummus), tabbouleh, kafta (meat mixed with onion, parsley and warm Middle Eastern spices) and fattoush—a crunchy salad of fresh vegetables, toasted pita and tangy dressing.

A TASTE OF SWEDEN It’s easy to explore traditional Swedish cuisine in Lindsborg. Sip on a cranberry vodka at Öl Stuga. Order a side of chunky lingonberry applesauce at the Blacksmith Coffee Shop & Roastery. Enjoy a scoop of creamy vanilla ice cream with chunks of the Scandinavian pastry kringler at Indigo Moo’d Ice Cream, or a plate of Swedish pancakes topped with lingonberries at the White Peacock Tea and Coffee Shop. For hearty classics that rely on simple ingredients, try Crown and Rye’s köttbullar, Värmlandskorv (pan-seared potato sausage), creamy dill potatoes or a slice of ginger-cardamom carrot cake. And don’t miss the festival foods. The Lindsborg Swedish Folk Dancers sell ‘Viking on a Stick’ at several of the city’s Swedish events. This popular reinvention of a classic features Swedish meatballs skewered between pieces of rye bread dipped in Swedish pancake batter and deep-fried. It’s served with lingonberry dipping sauce. • • • • •

Blacksmith Coffee Shop & Roastery 122 N. Main St., Lindsborg / 785.212.6077 Crown and Rye 121 N. Main St., Lindsborg / 785.227.8422 Indigo Moo’d Ice Cream 118 S. Main St., Lindsborg / 785.227.7411 Öl Stuga 119 S. Main St., Lindsborg / 785.227.8762 White Peacock Tea and Coffee Shop 124 S. Main St., Lindsborg / 785.212.6108

Of course, these weren’t the only communities to leave their mark on Kansas tables. Around 1900, Mexican immigrants arrived in large numbers, drawn by a booming railroad expansion across the Midwest. Their numbers grew after the 1910 Mexican Revolution, as thousands fleeing violence searched for economic opportunity. After the Immigration and Nationality Act of 1965, Indian professionals began arriving in greater numbers. And when Saigon fell in 1979, refugees from Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia followed. Countless other communities have walked similar paths, each bringing their own spices, techniques and traditions. And as Kansas grew, it grew not just through harvests and hard work but through the faith that brought people here and the food that kept them together.

A World of Cuisine

Little Sweden

Swedish immigrants played a vital role in establishing farming communities across Kansas in the late 19th century. Although these pioneers settled in several counties, their most famous destination was the Smoky Valley region of northcentral Kansas, specifically Lindsborg. Today, Lindsborg is widely known as Little Sweden USA. The community proudly honors its heritage with hundreds of colorful Dala horse statues scattered throughout the town and by hosting major Swedish festivals like Svensk Hyllningsfest. Several restaurants also serve signature dishes, including köttbullar, meatballs in a rich beef cream sauce over egg noodles; lutefisk, dried cod rehydrated into a gelatinous dish traditionally served at Christmas; and ostkaka, a dense, custardy cheesecake.

LAS HEFAS LATIN CUISINE

Masterminded by Israel Luna, Las Hefas Latin Cuisine in Hays gives Kansans a chance to enjoy culturally accurate dishes without leaving the state. Luna, who arrived in Hays at age 13, has crafted a menu inspired by his hometown, Durango, Mexico, and his travels across Latin America. His dedication earned him Entrepreneur of the Year in 2026 from the Hays Chamber of Commerce. Beyond traditional Mexican fare, Las Hefas serves crispy arepas from Colombia and Venezuela. These stuffed cornmeal griddlecakes are served with perfectly fried plantains. Also on the menu: pupusas, thick, handmade flatbreads from El Salvador; ropa vieja, a slow-cooked Cuban beef dish; and gallo pinto, a Costa Rican and Nicaraguan breakfast staple of rice and black beans. Off-menu items rotate regularly, giving diners a taste of even more Latin flavors. 224 W. 11th St., Hays / 785.261.0643

Egg Curry Toast

OF COURSE KITCHEN & COMPANY

FIG MARGARITA

Las Hefas Latin Cuisine rounds out its menu with an inventive cocktail selection. This particular cocktail was inspired by a childhood memory—one of owner Israel Luna climbing his grandparents’ fig tree. He captures that rich, earthy sweetness in an unexpected twist on the classic margarita. INGREDIENTS

• • • •

1¾ ounces additive-free blanco tequila 1 ounce natural fig liqueur 1 ounce fresh lime juice (about 1 lime) ½ ounce agave nectar

PHOTOS Sarah Reeves

INSTRUCTIONS

one. Combine ingredients in a cocktail shaker filled with ice and shake vigorously until well chilled. two. Strain into a sugar-rimmed glass and serve. Caramelized Cabbage Salad

Of Course Kitchen & Company in Overland Park elevates Indian cuisine through a creative blend of American influences. Guests rave about Chef Swetha Newcomb’s bold yet balanced flavors, inventive dishes and artful presentations. The restaurant’s name grew from Newcomb’s signature response to guests: Of course. Today, that phrase reflects a hospitality-driven philosophy that has earned her widespread recognition, including a semifinalist nod for the 2026 James Beard Award for Best Chef: Midwest. Locally sourced ingredients anchor the menu’s small plates, designed for sharing in the Indian tradition so diners can sample a range of flavors and textures. Entrées often pair the familiar with the unexpected. Tandoori chicken arrives with spicy raisin risotto, crispy okra and beet slaw. A smashburger—ground brisket patties on a potato bun—gets topped with caramelized onions and curry ketchup, served alongside peri peri fries tossed in a smoky, tangy seasoning. And the Kansas City strip steak gets an upgrade with spicy crab curry. 7753 W. 159th St., Overland Park 913.261.9187

How a first-generation family farm in Manhattan found success in a post-pandemic world Story and photography by Dave Mayes

Little Farm on the Prairie

Saturday morning at Manhattan’s downtown farmers market unfolds with a rich tapestry of sounds, smells and colors. Vendors and customers trade lively conversation, freshly harvested fruits and vegetables glimmer with vibrant hues, and the aroma of coffee and fresh-baked goods drifts through the rows of stalls. In one corner, a couple of canopies catch the eye. At first glance, the stall looks just like the others. But underneath, things are a bit different. At one end of the space, Alison Bjerke-Harvey prepares breakfast sandwiches at a smoking flat-top while her mom, Maureen Olewnik, serves customers fresh baked goods. As shoppers move through the stand, they peruse the fresh, seasonal produce and pasture-raised eggs. A few skip straight to the end of the line to pick up their online orders. There’s a lot happening at the Piccalilli Farm stand. “I buy from them because I know it’s local and I know where my food is coming from,” says Rose Kreller, a Manhattan resident from Victoria who frequently orders online from the farm. “I’m a western Kansas farm girl. I’ve always had a garden, but I don’t have the opportunity to do that here.”

“In 2020, the pandemic put our food system into upheaval,” Nat explains. “So we started our Farm to Porch online market program. During that season, our business more than doubled in output.” Piccalilli’s Farm to Porch supplies customers with locally grown foods from a network of producers through an online platform, delivering everything straight to their doors. “We found there was a really high demand for prepared foods that utilized seasonal and local ingredients,” Nat adds. “In fact, the demand for prepared food outpaced the demand for raw agricultural products. We could sell a lot more kale if we cooked it down and wrapped it in a pastry than if we just bunched it and brought it to the market.” For the first three years after the pandemic, the farm-to-table operation ran out of the couple’s own kitchen until it grew too large and required a bigger space equipped with commercial-grade equipment. “The way our farm grew during the pandemic pushed us to reach out more and [build] deeper connections with other farmers, ranchers and eaters,” Nat says. “It also helped us see the possibilities and connections within our food community.”

First-Generation Farmers

Alison and her husband, Nat, met in 2007 while working at a cheese counter in Chicago. He was a cook. She was a baker. He was from Maryland. She was from Kansas. Their shared passion for food set them on a journey—one that led to a 125-year-old barn south of Manhattan, nestled amid 60 acres of the Flint Hills. That journey eventually carried them down an aisle woven through prairie grasses and wildflowers. They married in 2014, the same year Piccalilli Farm earned its first revenue. “The farm has evolved in so many ways over the years,” Nat says. “A big part of the initial years was figuring out how we could both work full-time on a farm. As first-generation farmers, we needed supplementary off-farm income [until] our on-farm revenues grew enough to sustain us.” The couple took on second jobs to support their young but growing farm. But when the pandemic turned the world upside down, it also opened an unexpected door.

A Day in the Life

On any given day, the Piccalilli Farm buzzes with activity. Ali and Nat’s 9-year-old daughter, Mary, plays with the goats in the barn while Nat and several farmhands prepare for Saturday morning’s farmers market. They wash and bundle produce, fill online orders, and pack CSA boxes, community-supported agriculture boxes brimming with whatever the farm harvested in abundance that week. Ali bakes in a nearby food trailer, icing treats like her famous mini carrot cakes, made with carrots grown just 100 yards away. Mary has grown up on the farm. Beyond the hired help, Ali’s parents, Maureen and Jan Olewnik, and Nat’s mom, Laurette Harvey, are vital to its success.

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They pitch in with everything from market prep to their way into the light. New chicks chirp in the barn’s working the stall on Saturdays, and they watch Mary brooder room, while laying hens begin producing eggs whenever Nat and Ali need to focus on the business. in their pasture houses. It’s a family farm—the backbone of American The family made these mobile coops from converted agriculture. In 2022, family farms (those owned truck beds, allowing the hens to rotate to fresh foraging or majority-controlled by a producer and/or their areas as a way to supplement their grain rations. relatives) made up 95% of all U.S. farms, according Their approach not only produces hardy layers, meat to the USDA. Those operations range in size and fill chickens and turkeys but also keeps the pasture healthy. critical roles, from large-scale row-crop farms that “We manage a flock of nearly 250 layer hens and produce grains across Kansas to we also [raise] three batches of 250 small, specialized farms focused on Freedom Ranger chickens for meat a single product. Kansas has long production each year,” Nat says. been known as the Wheat State, yet “The Freedom Rangers do better a wide variety of producers, large on grass and have a far more even The USDA classifies farms by and small, thrive across the region. temperament. Then we use the same both ownership and revenue. “Small-scale producers are infrastructure to raise turkeys on Farms owned by the producer(s) grass for the Thanksgiving season.” important for local economies,” says Gregg Eyestone, a horticulture agent and their relatives fall under the Generally, the family aims for a with the Riley County Extension full market booth year-round and category of family farms, while Office. “The money [they earn] likely plans their crops accordingly. non-family farms belong to stays in the community and not sent “That means we are growing quite outside investors and large-scale out of the region. For consumers a few less profitable crops on the industrial agribusinesses. wanting to know where their food shoulder ends of the season,” Nat Rather than acreage comes from, they can connect with explains, “but we believe that if you or livestock numbers, the local farmers at farmers markets.” want to build a local food community USDA defines family farm Nat and Ali agree: Access that pushes our customers and size by total revenue before to local food matters on friends to eat seasonally, then you expenses, referred to as gross multiple fronts. have to have vegetables for them to cash farm income. Small “We provide nutrient-dense buy in all the seasons.” family farmers bring in up foods at their freshest, provide Farms of all sizes face daily to $349,999; midsize farms jobs, and keep dollars in the local challenges, but small-scale producers generate between $350,000 economy. All while fostering like Piccalilli encounter a unique and $999,999; and large farms set. Their work demands intensive, community around our common earn $1 million or more. need for food and health,” Nat hands-on labor; for example, growing Every five years, the says. “The role of local farms in the vegetables in small beds prevents USDA conducts a Census of community during the pandemic them from using tractors to lighten Agriculture. The most recent highlighted the importance of the load. Additionally, this style of strong local food economies that farming is hard to insure, difficult census, completed in 2022, can serve communities without to finance and ineligible for most revealed that 95% of all U.S. dependence on global or national subsidies. But that doesn’t mean it farms were family-owned. trade. It was important before and lacks benefits. Small family farms alone made continues to be as critical as ever.” “While this type of agriculture is up 85% of the nation’s total higher risk, it is also more resilient farms. Yet, among all U.S. A Farm for All Seasons in its diversity,” Nat says. “Piccalilli family farms, small operations Piccalilli Farm moves with the connects consumers directly with were the only category to rhythms of the seasons, and it their food in a way that is unique decline in number between the rarely stops moving. In the spring, to small-scale agriculture. We grow 2017 and 2022 censuses. plants emerge in the hoop house, vegetables by national organic and harvestable sprouts push standards. We are not certified

Did you know?

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Find Piccalilli Farm at the Downtown Farmers Market in Manhattan, and catch them on an alternating schedule at the Lawrence and Topeka markets. For the most up-to-date information on their market appearances, upcoming events and seasonal offerings, sign up for their weekly newsletter. Piccalilli Farm.com

organic, but believe that a commitment to those agricultural principles is best for the ecosystem of our farm and the food we raise.” The term “farm-to-table” has been around for a while, and it perfectly captures the family’s mission. “For us, farm-to-table is about eating seasonally and eating deliciously,” Nat says. “It’s about being intentional in what you eat, following the rhythms of agriculture in your region, and committing to cooking and eating what is in season.” Sara Kearns, a Manhattan resident, shops weekly at the Piccalilli Farm market stall on Saturday mornings. “I like knowing [my food] was pulled out of the ground and pulled out of the oven just in the last couple days,” Kearns says. “I also like knowing that I can talk to the person who planted it and know what they’re going through.”

Beyond the downtown farmers market, Piccalilli Farm hosts year-round pop-up events and farm-totable dinners, offering people more than a bag of fresh, healthy food to take home. “The farm-to-table dinner is always so much fun,” says Kaisha Lawrence, a Manhattan resident who attended a recent dinner at the Arrow Cocktail Lounge. “Piccalilli cares about what they grow and how they grow it. They care about their community, and they care about the earth. It is easy to support such wonderful people that provide nourishing goods.” In an era when small family farms are declining in number, Piccalilli Farm has endured, growing healthy, delicious food for more than a decade. And if the loyalty of its customers and the passion of its farmers are any sign, it’s not slowing down any time soon.

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Sept. 18 - 19 Camp Leavenworth Music Festival, Kids Fair, Carnival & 5K Run-Walk Oct. 3 - 4 Kaw Valley Farm Tour Oct. 14 - 18 American Veterans Traveling Tribute Check QR code for more upcoming events!

Brooke Long / Osborne County

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Andy Bayless / Barton County

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Casey Denneler / Rawlins County

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Taylor Hunt / Greenwood County

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Keep Calm Taco On AND

One writer hits the trail in search of the perfect taco—and uncovers why Kansas City is America’s unlikely taco capital Story by Nick Spacek

Photography by Doug Stremel

KANSAS

taste

ver the course of a long, scorching July day, I tackled the Kansas City Taco Trail. Billed as a flavor-packed journey through culture and history, this free digital guide and reward program features more than 60 local taco spots in Kansas City, Kansas. My first instinct was to start early in the morning and see exactly how long I could last. Instead, I narrowed my route to five spots, arranged in a lazy curve that wound south through several historic neighborhoods, giving me a taste of many taco styles before eventually heading home. Each restaurant promised authentic flavors and fresh ingredients. I considered ordering the same taco at every stop for consistency, but that felt contrary to the trail’s adventurous spirit. Instead, I gassed up the car and let flavor be my guide.

Opposite A spicy chicharrón taco from Bonito Michoacán, 1150 Minnesota Ave. Above Don Antonio Meat and Tortillas, 7510 State Ave., serves up street tacos with a variety of fillings.

Happy Trails to You One of the best signs of a solid taco spot is a cluster of neon yellow. When you spot a construction crew in safety gear and dirt-covered boots, you just know the food will be tasty, affordable and fast. Don Antonio Meat and Tortillas at 7510 State Ave. hums with a lively, working-class energy. People of all ages crowd the counter, eager to place their order. Part taqueria, part butcher shop and part small grocer, the Midtown storefront keeps things straightforward: customers order directly at the grill. The menu delivers all the street taco classics, from asada

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to pastor. I chose a cold can of soda and the buche taco, which arrived almost instantly. The buche came topped with cilantro, onion and a squeeze of lime. Not for the faint of heart, buche is slow-cooked pig’s stomach. The pork’s tenderness reminded me of lengua (beef tongue), but with a deeper, richer flavor. A small ramekin of avocado salsa offered a sharp, sneaky heat that perfectly balanced the flavorful, fatty meat. I was tempted to order another, but I still had four more stops to go. Next, I made my way east to Bonito Michoacán at 1150 Minnesota Ave. Slightly larger than Don Antonio, it’s similar in that it is a taqueria, butcher and grocer all rolled into one. Inside, a massive drinks cooler near the front door is stocked with seemingly every flavor of Jarritos. Outside, the heat was climbing, so I grabbed an ice-cold agua mineral to wash down my next taco. A friend once told me that eating spicy food can actually cool down your body temperature by making you sweat. I don’t know if that’s true, but I took their advice and ordered a spicy chicharrón taco. In its simplest form, chicharrón is fried pork belly or rinds. At Bonito, the kitchen chops the pork skin and stews it in a vat of salsa verde until tender, then piles it onto a tortilla topped with onion and cilantro. A nearby salsa bar offered plenty of toppings, but my pleasantly spicy taco didn’t need a single drop. What truly elevated both of my first two tacos, though, was the house-made tortillas. I would have happily taken a stack of those

What is the Taco Trail? The Kansas City Taco Trail is a digital passport program spotlighting locally owned taquerias, Mexican markets and food trucks across Kansas City, Kansas. “There are more than 60 spots,” says Ritz Dasgupta, senior manager of integrated marketing communications for Visit Kansas City Kansas. “With 52 weeks in a year, you can go to a new spot each Taco Tuesday!” Visit Kansas City Kansas launched the self-guided food trail in 2020 to honor the city’s rich Hispanic heritage—wherever you are in Kansas City, you’re never more than 10 minutes from authentic Mexican tacos. “You probably didn’t realize that KCK is the true taco capital of the United States,” wrote Brandon Schultz in his 2021 Forbes article, “America’s Taco Capital Isn’t Where You Think.” “Unlike other U.S. cities, Kansas City’s Mexican population comes from nearly all of Mexico’s cultural regions, which means KCK doesn’t specialize in carnitas, mole or sopes, but is home to masters of all Mexican dishes.” Schultz may have written the article a little tongue-in-cheek, but Dasgupta says Kansas City wears the taco crown proudly: “We’ve got some of the best tacos,” she says. “Why not us?” Hispanic migration to Kansas City first took root when the Santa Fe Trail opened trade with Mexico in 1821, but the first major wave arrived with the railroad boom in the mid-1860s. Mexican workers laid tracks and built communities near the rail yards in the Argentine, Armourdale and Rosedale neighborhoods—and they brought their recipes with them. Over time, Central Avenue became the commercial heart of the Hispanic community. Taquerias along this 13-block stretch helped fuel Kansas City’s economic revival, and similar growth spread to Kansas Avenue, 7th Street Trafficway, 18th Street, and Minnesota and State avenues. “Grocers and restaurants alone are responsible for $8 million to $10 million in sales every month,” wrote Mark Wiebe in his 2023 Journal article “Latinos Enrich the Culture and Economy of Wyandotte County.” These roads host most of the featured restaurants on the Taco Trail, which works as a mobile-exclusive passport. Sign up for free online, eat your way through participating spots, and check in to earn points redeemable for things like T-shirts, stickers and hats. Foodies follow the trail for bragging rights, and many have completed it only to start again right back at the beginning. Beyond the digital passport, Visit Kansas City Kansas has partnered with Red Machine Party Bus to offer Taco Trail Bus Tours. Each threehour tour visits four spots, each themed around a different style of taco. “You take the guessing game out when you are looking at these tours,” Dasgupta says. “Just hop on the party bus … and enjoy someone else doing the planning for you.” The Taco Trail experience runs through December 31, 2026. visitkansascityks.com/taco-trail

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tortillas on their own, sopped up nothing but pan drippings, and called it a day. However, my taco trail was not quite complete. In pursuit of more tacos, I headed south into the historic Central Avenue corridor and landed at Supermart El Torito, 1409 Central Ave. This one-stop shop is small but packed to the brim, with a robust restaurant tucked into the south end. You can order to go or dine in with a basket of chips and salsa while you wait. Caught in a fit of indecision, I broke my one-tacoper-spot rule and ordered two. And I’m glad I did. Both the cabeza and lengua tacos were perfection. Cabeza directly translates to “head” in Spanish, but in cooking terms it means the cow’s head has been slowroasted until the meat becomes meltin-your-mouth tender. I added a few pickled onions to mine, though honestly, it needed nothing more than the basic toppings. The lengua was also impressive.

“This experience will stay with me as I wait for the next excuse to come back for more.” –NICK SPACEK

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“As I wrapped up my taco trail experience, I realized the Kansas City Taco Trail had given me more than a full belly. It had taken me through vibrant neighborhoods, introduced me to family-run kitchens and served up a section of the community that pours its heritage into every tortilla.” –NICK SPACEK

Above Find authentic specialty cuts like buche (left) and cabeza (right) along the Kansas City Taco Trail.

taste

Next, I headed south for a 13-minute ride into the Argentine neighborhood to try Caporales Mexican Food, 1260 Merriam Ln. A little off the beaten path, Caporales sits in a strip mall beside a laundromat. Ranchera music drifts from the speakers, setting a lively, welcoming tone. Simply put, their al pastor might have been the best I’ve ever had—and I’ve had plenty. A favorite among taco enthusiasts, al pastor is slow-roasted pork marinated in a fragrant blend of Middle Eastern and Mexican spices, finished with bright chunks of pineapple. This version came out savory, tender and topped with sautéed onions. For my final stop, I curved west toward Amigos Grill & Cantina, 2737 S. 47th St., a family-friendly sports bar whose grilled fish tacos caught my eye. Five tacos deep into my adventure, I wasn’t sure I could handle a sixth, let alone a seventh. But at Amigos, fish tacos come as a pair. My order arrived with two grilled 4-ounce cod filets loaded with spiced lime crema, shredded cabbage, pico de gallo, queso fresco and avocado. (Plus a side of rice and beans for good measure.) The cod came out perfectly cooked—each bite delivered a satisfying crunch alongside flaky, savory and soft textures. As I finished one taco and sipped a cold Modelo, my only regret of the day was having just one stomach. I boxed up the second fish taco for my wife. As I wrapped up my taco trail experience, I realized the Kansas City Taco Trail had given me more than a full belly. It had taken me through vibrant neighborhoods, introduced me to family-run kitchens and served up a slice of the community that pours its heritage into every tortilla. This experience will stay with me as I wait for the next excuse to come back for more.

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poems W R I T T E N B Y K A N S A N S A N D C U R A T E D B Y P O E T L A U R E A T E T R A C I B R I M H A L L The moment the first berry breaks its skin, goes sweet to tart on the tongue, you are back in the forests outside Södertälje: two girls in rubber boots, buckets banging against our legs. We balance on logs, kneel together in the cool soil, upturn leaves for the bright clusters, gathering only the crimson lingon that come away willingly into our hands. We don’t need language here.

* All around my great uncle’s house: sheep, forests, weaving paths. Whose sheep are these? I ask. Kungens får, the king’s sheep. But whose forest? Kungens skog, the cousins all tell me. I have seen the berrying boots on every neighbor’s porch. How can the land belong to everyone and also belong to the king? Some nights around your uncle’s table your eyes will brim with all you can’t grasp, family talk blurring into nonsense after the day spent straining after every sound. This is the last summer you will soak up the language. Already the cousins old enough for school are learning English. When they visit you in America, one after another, they want to practice, and your own long forgetting will begin. This summer you are still swimming in Swedish, gathering up its lilt and song, each day collecting new vowels, letting them sound in the cave of your mouth.

* My cousin and I bike to the forest, tasked with gathering blåbär for dessert. We kickstand under a ridge, crouch to collect the dark berries growing small and close to the ground, where we sit and feast, forgetting the empty woven baskets on our bikes until the thunderclap – no, a branch breaking above us. Long velvety brown nose and caves for nostrils, lowering toward us, chandelier antlers fenced behind thin trees. “Mouse!” my cousin yells, and we pedal fast to the clearing, spilling the story later in English, Swedish, “mouse” and “moose” pantomimes. * A letter sent home with my mother in kindergarten: Please stop speaking Swedish in the home. Sandra is speaking English with a Swedish accent.

* Fifty miles north of the Arctic Circle, my grandmother gathers the translucent berries that bloom in amber blankets across the taiga in summer, each plant producing its single jewel of hjortron. Her father goes underground each day for twelve hours, mining iron. When a relative offers to take one family member to America, my grandmother, age twelve, volunteers. She leaves the world she knows in winter: sleigh to train to steamship to a kindergarten classroom in Western New York where she sits sidesaddle at the desk, sounding out words in English with children the same age as her little sister.

* I’ve only tasted cloudberries twice—an ethereal mix of marsh and sky. If you save up, you can buy a small jar of preserves in Lindsborg, Kansas, just down the street from the White Peacock café, which serves its pancakes rolled thin like my grandmother’s and with a dollop of lingon, whose taste I have finally tried to translate into words. —Siobhán Scarry

SIOBHÁN SCARRY is the author of Pilgrimly (Parlor Press/Free Verse Editions, 2014) and the

forthcoming Figure in a Field: Poems & Investigations (Parlor Press/Illuminations: A Series on American

Poetics, 2027). She also publishes scholarly work on 20th- to 21st-century American poetry and poetics, most recently in Paideuma. She is professor of English and creative writing at Bethel College. All four of Siobhán’s grandparents immigrated to the United States: two from Sweden and two from Ireland.

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PHOTOS Adobe Stock/Francis, courtesy Siobhán Scarry

Lingon, Blueberry, Cloud: A Foraging

* The blueberry bushes in Western New York grow tall in summer, fruit chalky and plump, the delight of cardinals my grandmother staves off: she holds two pieces of netting together, and I snap shut the giant wooden clothespins, crude stitch, at the seams.

Wellington

We are now accepting submissions for future KANSAS! Gallery sections. For submission details, go online at travelks.com/ks-mag/magazine/submit or send a query to us at kansas.mag@ks.gov.

Fall Festival September 26, 2026 Join us for Autumn in America! Chili Cookoff | Coloring Contest Apple Cider Slushies | Art & Craft Fair BBQ Contest | AND MORE!!!

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Give the Gift of Kansas Shop two gift box options at Shop.FromtheLandofKansas.com. Supporting local producers and promoting Kansas grown, raised, and produced since 1978. Boxes available to order October 1. Shipping available to all 50 states. Call for large orders.

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your adventure starts here

Make Topeka your next fall getaway. Start with local flavors, patio dining, and shareable plates worth slowing down for. Then explore colorful murals, live performances, local shops, and one-of-akind experiences throughout the capital city. Come hungry, stay for the weekend, and discover more around every corner.

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