Issuu

2026 / vol 82 / issue 4 / kansasmag.com

Route 66 1 0 0 Y e ars

COME SEE OUR COWS! Visitors can explore interactive games and displays that share information about milk’s journey from soil to yogurt cup. You’ll also be able to view the cows being milked in a state-of-the-art milking carousel and schedule a shuttle ride or an in-depth tour around the farm.

Visit our 120-cow carousel

FIELD TRIPS AND COMMUNITY GROUPS We can accommodate groups of many types and sizes and can tailor your visit to different age groups. Please call for an appointment to discuss your experience with one of our team members.

LOCATION 3179 US Highway 83 Rexford, KS 67753

@mccartyfamilyfarms

FOR HOURS AND INFORMATION www.JMDairyLearningCenter.com 785-269-3022 Ext. 804

urney from soil to yogurt cup o j s ’ k l i wm Follo

DISCOVER

HUNTING FISHING EQUESTRIAN TRAILS PLUS SO MUCH MORE! OR

LABETTE COUNTY

s n o s r a P

LAKE

OUTDOOR GUIDE

Se ven First Class

WHAT’S INSIDE /

featured

featured stories

The Road Still Talks

As Route 66 turns 100, we remember the paths our ancestors carved through this stretch of land

What the Road Taught Me PHOTO Colton Sturgeon

Get swept up in Kansas’ backroads, and you’ll come back with more than just stories—you’ll return with unexpected insights

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Home of the Last Remaining Lockheed Electra 10-E AmeliaEarhartHangarMuseum.org

WHAT’S INSIDE /

departments

kansas DETAILS 10

Heartland

People and Places That Define Us

Cuisine

Culture

Fine Food and Good Eats

Arts and Experiences

22 Air The Freshness of Outdoor Life 24 Captured Life in the Sunflower State We 26 Reasons Love Kansas Drive-In Diners

wide open SPACES Your Dreams 30 Put in Drive

Take a look inside Manhattan’s hidden gem for gearheads and explorers

Vinyl Revival 34 AAcoustic Sounds celebrates 40 years of spinning magic in Salina

kansas TASTE Knows Best 58 Mother Especially about cinnamon rolls. Follow our centennial culinary crawl down Kansas’ Route 66.

IN EVERY ISSUE 7

The Extra Details

Kansas Gallery

PHOTO Nick Krug

On the Cover The Rainbow Bridge is a rare Marsh arch bridge 3.5 miles north of Baxter Springs along Kansas Route 66. Photograph by Colton Sturgeon

5 KANSAS! magazine

Hello From Our Publisher From the Poet Laureate

KANSAS TOURISM, A DIVISION OF THE KANSAS DEPARTMENT OF COMMERCE

Andrea Etzel PUBLISHER

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David Toland

Maxwell Wildlife Refuge

LT. GOVERNOR & SECRETARY OF COMMERCE

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Located in the heart of the Smoky Hills

visit our website for more information

MaxwellWildlifeRefuge.com tickets can be purchased online or reservations accepted by email or phone

MaxwellWildlifeRefuge@gmail.com

620.654.7230

Come out and enjoy an up close and personal guided tour of our baby bison and the wildflowers in the prairie.

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Adventure little Follow a the Follow off Route 66 and Road to experience the Adventure in Adventure charm of Chanute! Chanute, KS!, , Chanute, , where great food classic cars safari artifacts and hometown hospitality await.

Chanuteisishome hometo tothe theworld-famous world-famous Martin and Chanute and OsaJohnson JohnsonSafari SafariMuseum. Museum. The The Johnsons took Osa took theroads roadsless lesstraveled traveledin in Africa, Africa, the South Seas the Seas andBorneo Borneoininthe the 1920s 1920s and ‘30s. and Chanuteisisalso also home home to: Chanute TheChanute ChanuteArt ArtGallery Gallery Howard’s Toys for Big Boys ~ ~ The ~~ Howard’s Boys ChanuteHistorical HistoricalMuseum Museum Antique Car Car Museum ~ ~ Chanute Antique CardinalDrug DrugStore Store Summit Hill Hill Gardens Soap ~ ~ Cardinal ~~ Summit Soap Shop Shop OldFashioned FashionedSoda SodaFountain Fountain ~~ Veterans Veterans Memorial Old

For more information 620-431-3350

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CONSULTANT

KANSAS! (ISSN 0022-8435) is published five (5) times per year by Kansas Tourism, 1000 SW Jackson St., Suite 100, Topeka, KS 66612; 785.296.3479; TTY Hearing Impaired: 785.296.3487 Periodical postage paid at Topeka, KS, and at additional mailing offices. Newsstand price $6 per issue; subscription price $25 per year; $45 for two years. All prices include all applicable sales tax. Please address subscription inquiries to: Toll-free: 800.678.6424 KANSAS!, 1000 SW Jackson St., Suite 100, Topeka, KS 66612 Email: kansas.mag@ks.gov | Website: www.KansasMag.com POSTMASTER: Send address change to: KANSAS!, P.O. Box 146, Topeka, KS 66601-0146 Please mail all editorial inquiries to: KANSAS!, 1000 SW Jackson St., Suite 100, Topeka, KS 66612 email: kansas.mag@ks.gov The articles and photographs that appear in KANSAS! magazine may not be broadcast, published or otherwise reproduced without the express written consent of Kansas Tourism or the appropriate copyright owner. Unauthorized use is prohibited. Additional restrictions may apply.

information@chanutechamber.com www.chanutechamber.com Howard’s Toys for Big Boys Antique Car Museum Formore moreinformation: information:620-431-3350 620-431-3350 For information@chanutechamber.com information@chanutechamber.com www.chanutechamber.com www.chanutechamber.com

6 KANSAS! magazine

KANSAS /

the extra details

100 Years of the Mother Road

Our writers and photographers hit the road this year to bring you this special issue celebrating Route 66. Cover photographer Colton Sturgeon turned it into a family trip, traveling Kansas’ stretch with his dad, Wes. The pair hopped into Wes’ beloved 1969 Chevrolet Chevelle, featured on our cover. Wes had never driven Kansas’ 13.2 miles before, even though, he admits, it’s something he should have done a long time ago. Food writer Meta West and her husband, Barry, spent two and a half days eating their way across that same stretch of road, hitting every local restaurant along the way. Yes, all 19 of them. Everyone was beyond friendly, she says. Locals dished out history, shared gossip and corrected some common misconceptions. For instance, Gravy’s Place does not offer a special fish fry on Fridays— despite what it says online. No stranger to Route 66, our feature writer Beccy Tanner recently drove it a fourth time to honor its centennial. Alongside her friend, Lynn, a first-timer, she loved crossing the historic Marsh Arch Bridge in Baxter Springs and satisfied her childhood craving for a pickle loaf and pimento cheese sandwich at Nelson’s Old Riverton Store.

the extra details Queen of the Backroads

Marci Penner (page 44) is practically a Kansas institution. As director emeritus of the Kansas Sampler Foundation and co-author of several quintessential Kansas guidebooks, she has roadtripped across the state since the 1990s. She and her longtime project manager, WenDee Rowe, recently stepped into advisory roles, but their legacy lives on with the launch of a new online Kansas Guidebook. Start exploring our state with this ever-evolving experience at kansasguidebook.org.

Around the State

PHOTOS COURTESY (FROM TOP) Colton Sturgeon, Dave Leiker, Kenny Felt (2)

4 5 3

1 Winfield / page 10 2 WaKeeney / page 23 3 Hugoton / page 28 4 Hutchinson / page 29

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5 Chanute / page 32 6 St. Francis / page 32 7 Cuba / page 46 8 St. Benedict / page 48

hello F R O M O U R P U B L I S H E R

I don’t know about you, but when summer arrives, I’m ready to hit the road.

ANDREA ETZEL

PUBLISHER, KANSAS! MAGAZINE

facebook.com/KansasMagazine KansasMagazine

(get spotted; use #kansasmag to tag us)

8 KANSAS! magazine

PHOTO Andrea Etzel

Maybe it’s the longer days. Maybe it’s the memory of family vacations. Whatever the reason, summer has a way of calling us to get out and go—to take the scenic route, wander unfamiliar roads and discover what lies just beyond the next bend. This year, as America celebrates its 250th anniversary, Route 66 marks its 100th year. From Galena to Riverton through Baxter Springs, 13.2 miles of that iconic highway cut across Kansas, connecting our state to one of the most treasured travel stories in American history. In this issue, we’ve packed plenty of history, character and a little whimsy into those miles. Every road trip needs a good navigator, and in Kansas, one of the best you could ask for is Marci Penner. She’s visited every community in Kansas more than once and has published two guidebooks chronicling those journeys. Along the way, she’s become one of Kansas’ greatest advocates. In her story “What the Road Taught Me” on page 45, Marci shares the lessons she’s learned over the years and offers advice for making your travels more meaningful, both for you and the people you meet. I’ve been lucky enough to tag along with Marci and her guidebook co-author, WenDee Rowe, on a trip or two. Here’s what they taught me: It’s less about the destination and more about the stories you hear and the people you meet. (Also, always buy stamps at the post office in rural communities. Trust me.) Whether you’re planning a weekend getaway, following a scenic byway or finally pulling over at that place you’ve passed a hundred times, I hope this issue inspires you to see Kansas with fresh eyes and an open heart. You never know what you’ll discover just down the road.

More Smiles. More Memories

Discover family friendly fun in Salina, Kansas with attractions, local dining, outdoor adventures, and experiences kids and parents will both love.

Plan your visit and discover why Salina is more than you think at DiscoverSalina.org

Purple in the Prairie How 280 lavender plants bloomed into a beloved family farm and honey bee haven in Winfield Story and photography by Bill Stephens

KANSAS DETAILS /

heartland

recipe.

rized for its rich violet hues, sweet, earthy fragrance, and extensive medicinal properties, lavender has been the darling of the herb world for centuries. Breathing its soothing aroma is thought to calm irritability, relieve insomnia, anxiety and depression, and create a general sense of well-being. Although lavender isn’t native to Kansas, one family in Cowley County has successfully run a commercial lavender farm for more than four years. Rick and Ingrid Elam own Elam Lavender & Honey Bee Farm in Winfield, 5226 142nd Rd., on land that has belonged to Ingrid’s family for nearly a century. The couple launched the farm after Rick’s mom and stepdad retired from their own lavender business and gave them 280 lavender plants to get started. Today, the couple, with the help of their daughter Amanda Murphy, raises 21 different lavender strains that they use in dried bouquets and cuttings for home gardeners. During the blooming months, the farm invites visitors to pick lavender in bundles. “Lavender starts to bloom in May and runs through July,” Rick says. “The plants last three to 15 years depending on the variety. Recently, we have had some really rough winters with lots of cold wind and no snow cover and summer droughts, but our plants are still doing fine.” Beyond the beautiful blooms that decorate homes, lavender also yields essential oils and hydrosols—two coveted herbal concoctions that are typically made side by side. Hydrosols, also known as floral waters, contain the water-soluble components of a plant’s essence. Essential oils, in contrast, are highly concentrated aromatic extracts of the plant’s oil-soluble components. “We process our lavender using our own hydrosol still,” Rick explains. “The condensed output from the steam-still contains many of the lavender properties, plus a thin layer of essential oil. We separate [that] oil from the water and use it for many purposes.” Lavender hydrosols and essential oil are key tools in any body-care or aromatherapy kit. Add a few drops of lavender essential oil to a diffuser to unwind, or use a lavender hydrosol as a facial toner or a cooling mist for sunburns and rashes. “The scent also keeps the bugs away,” Rick adds. “I spray it on my hair to keep the mosquitoes off.” Opposite Rick Elam grows 21 strains of lavender on his farm in Cowley County.

Lavender-Lemonade Infusion The Elam family recently served this color-changing infusion at a garden party. The refreshing recipe, developed by Carol Galliart of Winfield, takes a few steps, but the magic is worth it. The secret? Butterfly pea flowers. Their petals shift color based on pH—add lemon, and the drink transforms. Find the flowers at any health-food store or online retailer. INGREDIENTS

Lemonade • 2 large lemons • 1 gallon water • 2 cups sugar • 1 tablespoon citric acid Lavender Syrup • 3 tablespoons dried culinary lavender • 1 cup sugar • 1 cup water • Zest of 1 lemon Butterfly Pea Flower Tea • 2 cups water • 1 to 2 teaspoons dried butterfly pea flowers INSTRUCTIONS

one. Make the lemonade. Fill a large pitcher with a gallon of water. Squeeze juice from the lemons into the water. Slice squeezed lemons into quarters and add to the water as well. Stir in sugar and citric acid. Cover and refrigerate overnight. two. Make the lavender syrup. In a small pot, combine dried lavender, sugar and water. Bring to a boil, stirring until sugar dissolves completely. Remove from heat and stir in lemon zest. Let steep for 1 hour, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve or cheesecloth-lined sieve. Cool completely, then refrigerate until ready to use. three. Make the butterfly pea tea. Bring water to a boil. Add dried butterfly pea flowers, cover and steep for 3 to 10 minutes. It will have a deeper blue and stronger flavor the longer it steeps. Strain out the flowers and cool to room temperature. four. Assemble the infusion. In a pitcher, combine 13 cups prepared lemonade with 2 cups lavender syrup and 3 tablespoons lemon juice—adjust sweetness or tartness to taste. Slowly pour in ¾ cup butterfly pea tea and watch the color shift from yellow to pinkish to deep purple. Serve over ice.

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Elam Lavender & Honey Bee Farm invites visitors to pick lavender in bundles May through July.

KANSAS DETAILS /

heartland

Ingrid runs the gift shop and creates an assortment of homegrown, lavender-based products. Over the years, she has developed her own formulas for body-care products such as balms, salves, lotions, body butters and lip balms. “[We make] lavender shoulder wraps that are popular for sore muscles. You can pop them in the microwave to warm them up or the freezer to cool them down,” Ingrid says. “We also sell small drawstring bags of lavender that can be tossed in your clothes dryer in place of dryer sheets.” Ingrid also packages culinary seasoning blends for flavoring baked goods and savory dishes—think salads, cookies and lemonades. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) works best for cooking because of its flavor profile, although most lavender is safe to eat. This variety contains less camphor than the types used in perfumes and other bodycare products, so it avoids that bitter, “soapy” taste. In addition to lavender, the farm sells products made with honey from its own beehives. Rick’s interest in beekeeping began in 2013, when he brought two hives to the farm. Today, he keeps 12 hives and plans to expand. He also served as president of the South Central Kansas Beekeepers Association. While the lavender doesn’t rely on the bees for pollination, the bees certainly enjoy the aromatic herbs. Whether you leave with a bundle of fresh lavender or a jar of local honey, Elam Lavender & Honey Bee Farm will give you a deeper appreciation for Kansas growers who follow their passions. Check their website for seasonal updates, U-pick schedules and special farm events. elamlavenderandhoneybeefarm.square.site 620.221.9231

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Scott Bean Photography

K A N S A S L A N D S C A P E A N D N AT U R E P H O T O G R A P H S

785-341-1047 | SCOTT@SCOTTBEANPHOTO.COM

www.scottbeanphoto.com

The Legend of Nelson’s Just one bite and you’ll understand why this Kansas store remains a Route 66 landmark 101 years later Story by Lisa Waterman Gray

Photography by Kenny Felt

Cutline will go here

KANSAS DETAILS /

cuisine

elson’s Old Riverton Store, 7109 SE Highway 66, has served customers along Route 66 for more than 100 years. Travelers consider it a must-see stop along this historic stretch of road—if not for the history, then for the sandwiches alone. Leo and Lora Williams opened the shop in 1925, one year before Route 66 officially became a highway. The redbrick building featured a storefront and attached living quarters, where the Williamses lived with their daughter for a time. What was once their living room now displays Route 66 souvenirs and memorabilia. The couple ran the store as both a gas station and a general store, carrying staples such as bread, milk and produce, plus meats and cheeses by the pound, along with general merchandise. Over time, they “Our quality and selection are better than [other offered barbeque, burgers, small-town stores], too. Our folks in Riverton are hot dogs and Lora’s special homemade chili. actually spoiled, and most of our local customers In 1945, the store changed are like family.” hands when the Williamses —SCOTT NELSON leased it to Lloyd Paxson. Three years later, Leo died. When Paxson’s lease expired, Lora resumed operations and kept it going until 1970. It passed to Lora’s daughter Jane, then to a woman named Thelma Ball until Joe and Isabel Eisler purchased the grocery and deli in 1973. They hired their nephew, Scott Nelson, age 14, to help out around the store. By the early 1980s, Nelson had risen to manager and then bought the store in 2011. Today, the store retains its old-fashioned charm and has gained a reputation for selling delicious sandwiches and beautiful flowers. “One of the first tasks I learned at the store was how to take care of bedding plants and hanging baskets,” Nelson explains. “My aunt Isabel taught me the correct way.” Upon arrival, check out the store’s selection of sandwiches—after all, it is called the “Home of the Handcrafted Sandwich.” Nelson’s Old Riverton Store offers more than a dozen sliced meats, including ham, salami, pickle loaf and turkey. Build your own with a wide selection of cheeses, sauces and other fixings. The sandwiches are simple but solid. Opposite The golden age of Americana lives on along the Mother Road at Nelson’s Old Riverton Store.

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Above The store may be famous for its sandwiches, but it also stocks a solid selection of grocery staples.

cuisine / K A N S A S D E T A I L S

Hutchinson Shawnee Riverton

plus. Franklin General Store

Nelson’s calls itself “Home of the Handcrafted Sandwich” and serves more than a dozen types of meat, sliced fresh when you order.

“The turkey sandwich is one of our top sellers,” Nelson says. “We only start slicing it once you order it, so it could not be any fresher.” The store also offers fresh slices of homemade pie and a variety of oldfashioned sodas from a vintage 1939 Coca-Cola refrigerator. “We are the only home [the refrigerator] has ever had,” he adds. An enclosed porch seats 15 to 20 diners, with additional outdoor seating. Locals and travelers can also buy groceries, car fluids and other necessities. Travelers consider Nelson’s Old Riverton Store—placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 2003—one of the most authentic stops on the entire historic route. “We carry a good line of groceries, meats and cheeses—basic staples that customers might need in their daily lives,” Nelson says. “Our quality and selection are better than [other small-town stores], too. Our folks in Riverton are actually spoiled, and most of our local customers are like family.” oldrivertonstore.com / 620.848.3330

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Shawnee / Route 66 is not the only place that still offers oldfashioned general stores. Franklin General Store has been open since June 2025 inside a renovated antique house more than 120 years old. The shop brings together more than 70 local vendors under one charming roof. Check out its selection of locally roasted coffee, small-batch honey, buffalo meat, greeting cards and handcrafted cutting boards. facebook.com/ franklingeneralstore 913.631.6593

Smith’s Market

Hutchinson / Family-owned for more than 90 years, this classic grocery store feels like stepping back in time. Check out the weekly specials on its fresh fruits and vegetables, then lose yourself among shelves packed with specialty toys and old-fashioned candies. A wall-spanning pastoral mural provides the perfect backdrop for this nostalgic market. smithsmarketks.com 620.662.6761

V I S I T D O D G E C I T Y . O R G / D E T O U R

DODGE CITY, WHERE THE DETOUR BECOMES THE DESTINATION! Relive the wild west in the city nicknamed the “Wickedest Little City in the West”, sip a sarsaparilla in the world famous Long Branch Saloon, and discover more than 60,000 artifacts of western heritage and culture. Explore the art and history of Historic Downtown, catch a concert or show, or enjoy a delicious meal at any of our fabulous local restaurants.

1- 8 0 0 - O L D -W E S T

Join us in Dow ntown Emporia for the First Fr iday Art Walk Browse and purchase art from area artists showing in local businesses. There’s something new to discover every month!

emporiafirstfriday.co

ria, Kansas of each month in Empo 5 - 8 pm the first Friday

Thirteen Miles of Color and Charm New public art honors Route 66, giving Kansas’ short stretch its long-overdue spotlight Story by Cecilia Harris

Photography by Kenny Felt

KANSAS DETAILS /

culture

ocal artists and city planners in Kansas have been busy this past year, racing to welcome the 100th anniversary of Route 66. Even though the Mother Road runs just 13.2 miles through Cherokee County, it packs a stunning amount of history in these few miles. To honor the highway’s centennial, Galena has unveiled several new murals and public works of art. Each piece invites visitors to slow down, pull over and take a closer look. Sitting on the Kansas-Missouri border with fewer than 3,000 people, Galena has steered Route 66 tourists toward its town through art for more than a decade. Pamela Mitchell, president of the Kansas Historic Route 66 Association, credits Renee Charles as the driving force behind these efforts. Charles is a former association president and a current partner in Cars on the Route, a popular Galena tourist attraction. Her work began long before the road’s centennial. “Galena has done so much, mostly because of [Charles],” Mitchell says. “She has really been the inspiration in the last 20 years to get these murals done.” One of the newest works of art—and a perfect photo op—is a large Route 66 shield that motorists can actually drive through. “There were not any drive-through shields on this end of Route 66,” Charles explains. “There was only one in Kingman, Arizona, and one in Grants, New Mexico.”

Opposite One of Galena’s newest works of art is a vibrant Route 66 shield that motorists can drive through.

Standing 16 feet tall with a 10-by-10-foot opening, the shield sits on Front Street—widely considered “old Route 66.” Traffic first followed this street before the highway redirected onto Seventh Street in 1961. On one side, a stunning field of sunflowers spreads across the surface, and a rusty tow truck, reminiscent of the one that inspired the beloved character in Pixar’s 2006 film Cars, faces the sunset. On the other side, the words “Kansas” and “US” stand alone against a white background. This side serves as a blank canvas, designed to display projected images of Galena’s history during special occasions. Near the drive-through, a new centennial arch welcomes Route 66 travelers into Galena. Built for the anniversary, the metal semicircle structure measures 100 feet wide and features reclaimed barrel trusses. Straddling Front Street, the arch includes 16 painted murals that adorn the base of each leg and the sides. Beyond these centennial displays, Galena boasts several other new and noteworthy works of art, including Kansas’ newest Muffler Man. Big A, the Texaco Giant, stands outside Gearhead Curios, another popular Galena attraction. Muffler Men are large fiberglass statues, prominent in the 1960s, that promoted many U.S. businesses. In 2024, this 22-foottall, 1,200-pound figure took its place outside the restored 1939 Texaco service station. Donning a bright

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Above Galena has unveiled several new murals and public works of art to honor Route 66’s centennial.

culture / K A N S A S D E T A I L S

green Texaco uniform and sporting a friendly white beard, he resembles the shop’s owner, Aaron Perry. Perry has placed two more vintage fiberglass figures outside his shop: Rock-a-Betty, a Betty Boop figure dressed in a Texaco uniform with roller skates and a tray of motor oil; and Big Boy, a popular marketing mascot from the 1950s, dressed in green and white checkered overalls while hoisting a stack of car tires. On the west side of the building, 169 Kansas license plates form an American flag. Inside, the establishment has become internationally known for its restrooms, constructed entirely from repurposed car parts. Along Main Street, the words “Greetings from Galena on Historic Route 66” have welcomed visitors since 2013. The massive postcard-style mural consists of more than 400 ceramic tiles, each 15 inches wide. It features a powder blue 1957 Chevrolet cruising through Galena. At another nearby Route 66 installation, tourists can peek through two sixes in a Route 66 shield sculpture. Two additional vintage-style murals feature Route 66 shields—one advertising Pepsi, the other Coca-Cola. These are not the only public works of art in Galena, or even along Kansas’ stretch of Route 66. But Mitchell says the best part about the iconic thoroughfare’s centennial is waking people up to these beloved Kansas towns. “We are getting so much press coverage from people who haven’t even heard of Kansas Route 66,” she says. “It’s driving people here in droves, which is what these small towns along the route need to survive.” kansasroute66.org

more artwork along route 66 Don’t miss these beautiful public displays of art in Riverton and Baxter Springs!

Metal Route 66 Shield Sculpture

Riverton / Members of the Riverton Future Farmers of America designed and constructed this Route 66 shield in 2018. Standing 20 feet tall, the metal sculpture uses repurposed tire rims to form the two sixes.

Historical Mural

Baxter Springs / Revealed in 2024, this vibrant 100-foot-long mural depicts major moments in Baxter Springs’ history: the Indigenous people who lived here, the city’s beginnings as a cattle town, the Baxter Springs Massacre during the Civil War, the birth of the railroad, and Mickey Mantle playing for the Whiz Kids, the local semi-pro team.

Bas-Relief Mural

Baxter Springs / Carved into the south side of a bank, this basrelief mural features iconic Route 66 images alongside scenes from Baxter Springs’ cowtown days, its mining history and more.

Route 66 Sunflower Sign

Baxter Springs / A nod to the Sunflower State, two large sunflowers flank a swinging Route 66 shield at this roadside park. Visitors can learn more about Baxter Springs at one of the nearby kiosks.

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Above Cars on the Route in Galena is a popular attraction.

10-4pm Wed-Sat I 1-Spm Sun

(785) 887-6148 I www.lecomptonkansas.com

VisitLeavenworthKS.com

August 8

Jazz By The River Festival

August 22

40th Annual Cruisers Classic Car Show

September 18 & 19

Camp Leavenworth Music Festival, Kids Fair, Carnival & 5K Run-Walk

Check QR code for more upcoming events!

Luxury’s New Frontier One of Kansas’ best-kept glamping secrets is hiding inside a Topeka warehouse

Story and photography by Michael Pearce

overed wagons are once again dotting the Kansas prairies, but today’s versions bear little resemblance to the rugged vehicles that hauled thousands of pioneers across the Midwest in the 19th century. Modern wagons stretch as large as hotel rooms, and many come equipped with high-quality heating, air conditioning and even a bathroom complete with a toilet and walk-in shower. “They’re not exactly roughing it,” says Brandon Vore, owner of Isinglass Estate in Miami County. “They have the comfort of a four- or five-star hotel, while playing into the [Western theme] a lot of people associate with Kansas.” Vore and his wife, Sarah, keep five ultra-modern covered wagons on their property. Even though more traditional lodgings are available, these wagons maintain a high occupancy rate. A Topeka-based company designs and builds the wagons. PlainsCraft specializes in handmade, beautifully outfitted covered “glamping” wagons.

Dennis and Donna Steinman founded the company in 2018 after selling their electronic manufacturing business and searching for a new venture. “We were at a Colorado RV park that had two covered wagons with just a bed inside. I immediately thought we could do better,” Dennis Steinman says. “We were already looking into the glamping market because it was really growing.” The idea also held a special place in his heart. When he was a little boy growing up in southeast Kansas, his father built a pony-pulled covered wagon. He fondly remembers driving it to the county fair with his friend Bobby and his sister, Sherry. Halfway there, he slept overnight in the wagon with the animals at a farm, like a real cowboy on the trail. PlainsCraft uses modern materials to wrap guests in both comfort and safety. The wagon’s cover, for example, is fire-retardant, waterproof, tear-proof and provides great insulation. “We’ve had people out when it’s been 10 degrees and when it’s been 110 degrees, and they’ve all been

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Above Find PlainsCraft “glamping” wagons at several scenic spots across Kansas, including the beautiful Historic Lake Scott State Park in Scott City.

KANSAS DETAILS /

air

very comfortable,” Steinman says. “These wagons have held up to some pretty severe Kansas winds.” Currently, the company makes its wagons in three sizes. The “Pony Wagon” model, measuring 8 by 16 feet, delivers the charm of a covered wagon in a smaller, more eco-conscious package. The “Mustang Wagon,” their next size up, measures 10 by 18 feet. It’s slightly larger but remains compact. The largest size—marketed as “Prairie Wagons” and “Pioneer Elite Wagons”—measures 10 by 22.5 feet and offers more amenities in a variety of styles. At this size, the family-style wagon can feature either one queen bed and a set of bunk beds, or a single king-sized bed, all with options to add full-use bathrooms, heating and air conditioning. Most sales have gone to campgrounds or guest ranches. The products are so popular that a crew of up to 10 people produces about two per week at the Topeka facility. “We’re still improving and trying to make a product that lets our customers make a nice profit but is special and affordable for their customers,” Steinman says. “I think we’re doing pretty well.” So far, PlainsCraft wagons have been sold to customers in 27 states, including several locations in Kansas. plainscraft.net / 785.748.4588

covered wagon stays in kansas Diamond Springs Ranch

Sedgwick / Co-owner Logan Schrag says their PlainsCraft wagon is the perfect overnight stay after a sunset ride and a steak dinner at the horseback-based familyowned facility 15 miles north of Wichita. Rental rates are $180–$250 per night. cowboyexperienceks.com / 316.303.6195

Historic Lake Scott State Park Scott City / Probably no PlainsCraft wagon looks more at home than the one at this scenic park just north of Scott City. The setting, with towering canyons, a clear lake, native grasslands and wild cacti, could be the setting for a Western film. Wagon rates are $139–$164 per night. campitks.gov / 620.672.5911

Isinglass Estate

Miami County / The country winery resort features five PlainsCraft wagons on a 600-acre rural property in Miami County. Guests have access to 16 miles of trails, a private lake, horses, wine tasting, food and tours. Wagon rates are $100–$189 per night. isinglass-estate.com / 913.259.9411

Rosie’s RV Park

WaKeeney / Two PlainsCraft wagons sit within the new RV park near I-70. A morning breakfast and coffee shop as well as a bar and grill are open seven days a week in the park. The wagon rental rate is $125 per night. prairieroseinn.com / 785.432.7797

Above Guests aren’t exactly roughing it inside a PlainsCraft covered wagon. Some sizes come equipped with heating, air conditioning and private bathrooms.

Scott City WaKeeney Sedgwick Miami County

23 KANSAS! magazine

captured / K A N S A S D E T A I L S

24 KANSAS! magazine

KANSAS DETAILS /

captured

Pottawatomie County

“This photo was taken at Tuttle Creek State Park on Christmas Eve. My wife and I were out with our dog to watch the sunset as part of a new holiday tradition. My wife walked ahead of me with the dog while I took pictures, and I really liked the silhouetted view of them along the shoreline. To me, this photo serves as a strong reminder of the importance of family and the value of traditions. I’m grateful to have access to beautiful locations in Kansas where I can share moments like this.”

–Scott Bean

Scott Bean / Photographer scottbeanphoto scottbeanphoto @ScottBeanPhoto

Scott Bean captured this special moment with a Canon R5 and a Canon 24-105mm lens. He first pursued nature photography in college. Growing up, he spent countless hours hunting and fishing with his dad. As a student, he missed the outdoors so much that he picked up photography as a way to get back outside and reconnect with the natural world.

25 KANSAS! magazine

Kansas REASONS WE LOVE

By Cecilia Harris

IN THIS ISSUE

Drive-In Diners

Rediscover the simple joys of American drive-ins

Hugoton, Hays, Hutchinson, Topeka, Pleasanton

PHOTOS PHOTOS Nick Nick Krug Krug

KANSAS DETAILS /

reasons we love kansas

BOBO’S DRIVE-IN Topeka / In the glory days of leisure road travel, drivein restaurants won over hungry motorists by offering the convenience of ordering and eating without ever leaving their vehicles. Carhops donned crisp uniforms and strapped on roller skates. To the tunes of Chuck Berry and Elvis Presley, they delivered hamburgers, onion rings and root beer floats, clipping trays to car windows and picking up empty receptacles at the cheerful beep of a horn. Then the drive-thru arrived. Faster and more efficient, it eventually replaced the drive-in. But a few held on for the long haul. Bobo’s Drive-In still serves customers in Topeka just as it did when it first opened in 1948. Its original location opened on Huntoon Street, but its second location—the one still serving customers at 2300 SW 10th Ave.—opened in 1953. Since then, only the uniforms have changed. Carhops swapped skates and the classic uniform for a simple Bobo’s T-shirt. “We do have carhops,” says Tricia Marsh, who owns Bobo’s with her husband, Richard. “When a car pulls up, just like in 1948, we send the carhops out to take their order and give the best service.” Most customers prefer to stay in their cars, Marsh adds, but a few like to sit inside at the original counter and tables. “We’ve preserved everything as best as possible,” she says. Marsh and her husband bought Bobo’s in 2007, and the couple has made very few changes. Aside from a fresh coat of paint, new upholstery and a resurfaced parking lot, the restaurant has been carefully preserved. “We have a lot of people who come in who have been eating at Bobo’s for 50-some years,” she says. “The beauty of Bobo’s is we provide the best service, we have really, really good food, and we bring a lot of memories to many people.” Bobo’s still prioritizes fresh meat daily, and the menu has remained largely untouched since the restaurant’s early years. “We have stuck with the original recipes,” Marsh explains. “That tradition has been going on now for 78 years. We have our smashburgers, our homemade root beer, our chili, our hand-sliced and hand-battered onion rings, and our apple pie, which is also made in-house.” The double cheeseburger might be everyone’s favorite, but the Spanish burger remains Bobo’s true specialty. For decades, it has tantalized customers with a signature Spanish sauce made from a closely guarded recipe. Some diners order

extra sauce just to dip their onion rings or drizzle over their fish and pork tenderloin sandwiches. “The Spanish burger is a traditional, tried-and-true recipe,” Marsh says. “It has a sweet, savory, tomato-based sauce. We throw in a spice ball, but we can’t tell you what’s in it!” Diners should always save room for a slice of homemade apple pie. Bobo’s has been baking this classic American dessert the same way for 78 years. “We slice, cut and core our apples. The crust is also homemade,” Marsh says. “We use great apples and our crust is so good. It’s hard to master a good crust.” The pie arrives topped with Bobo’s signature vanilla softserve ice cream, Satin-Freeze. The same sweet blend stars in Bobo’s vintage shakes, malts and floats—including its classic, homemade root beer float.

“A lot of places don’t [make soda floats] anymore,” Marsh explains. Bobo’s method is classic simplicity: “It’s just soda with soft-serve ice cream, and you can pick whatever flavor you like.” In an era of fast food and delivery apps, Bobo’s offers something most restaurants have lost: friendly, face-to-face service that turns customers into regulars. “When you see the smiling faces and you know the names of your customers and they’ve become friends to you, that’s worth all the time that you put in,” Marsh adds. “I truly believe it’s been our responsibility to keep this tradition going for Topekans and others.” Facebook: Bobos Drive In / 785.234.4511

27 KANSAS! magazine

CHISHOLM TRAIL MUSEUM

COOKEE’S DRIVE-IN Pleasanton / From the late 1930s to the mid-1970s, Wichita’s Valentine Manufacturing Company built portable, prefabricated steel units and shipped them directly to retailers across the country. Cookee’s Drive-In occupies one of these historic Valentine buildings. It was delivered in 1962 and continues to charm customers today. Diners can still enjoy classic carhop service or sit inside on chrome stools along a long counter. The interior pops with a checkerboard floor, Coca-Cola memorabilia, vintage food product signs and a jukebox. Freshly ground, neverfrozen hamburgers arrive topped with slivered onions. Order with a side of fries or fried pickles. The menu remains largely unchanged from when it first opened, except for a few exciting additions. Look for the Cookee Monster, a half-pound beef patty served on Texas toast. cookeesdrivein.com / 913.352.8789

Open May thru November Call or message for current days of operation Hours: 1-5 PM

502 N. Washington Wellington, KS 67152 620.326.3820 facebook.com/ctmuseum www.ctmuseumks.com

Cookee’s Drive-In calls a historic Valentine Diner home. These portable, prefabricated steel units were built in Wichita and popular throughout the 1960s. Today, carhops still serve classic diner fare, and guests browse a menu packed with hamburgers, pulled pork sandwiches, Frito pies, hot wings and piles of fries.

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JET DRIVE-IN Hugoton / A retro white and yellow sign has directed diners to Jet Drive-In in Hugoton for 48 years. On the roof, a large, vintage Coca-Cola clock greets visitors with the words, “Jet Drive-In: It’s Time to Eat.” Although the family-owned restaurant isn’t a traditional drive-in, it features a drivethru window and a cozy diner interior. Jet is known for its hamburgers made from fresh, ground-daily beef, as well as hamburger steaks, steak fingers and Texas Toothpicks—thin slivers of battered and fried onions and jalapeño peppers. In the morning, visitors can enjoy a hearty breakfast with all the classic fixings. Each day, the owner bakes a cake of his choosing (diners especially love the German chocolate). Facebook: Jet Drive-In / 620.544.8726

28 KANSAS! magazine

R-B DRIVE IN Hutchinson / Since 1948, R-B Drive In has prioritized fresh food over fast food. Customers can still park in one of 18 canopy-covered stalls where a “Honk for Service” sign instructs them how to alert a carhop that they’re ready to place an order. Although many diners still love this old-school drive-in experience, others prefer to step inside and sit at a table or the stainless-steel counter overlooking the kitchen. Time-tested recipes have been passed from generation to generation. Customers still gush over the hand-tenderized, hand-breaded pork tenderloin; the cheeseburgers cooked fresh on the drive-in’s original grill; and the fries, served 10 different ways. Order a Green River, a lime-flavored soft drink first introduced in 1919 and hard to find today. And check out the “BeltBuster”—a 3-pound burger that will make you question both the size of your eyes and the limits of your stomach (also available as 1 or 2 pounds). rbdrivein.com / 620.662.9713

For 78 years, R-B Drive In has served up a classic carhop experience in Hutchinson. Just honk your horn, and a server will bring your order. Signature items include sandwiches, fries and specialty limeades. Up for a challenge? Ask about the “BeltBuster,” a burger available in 1, 2 or 3 pounds. VERNIE’S HAMBURGER HOUSE Hays / For more than 50 years, Vernie’s Hamburger House has cruised along as one of Hays’ most popular restaurants. Inside this mom-and-pop joint, customers say they feel like family—and so many visitors have pinned their hometowns on its map of the United States that the restaurant has had to replace it three times. Vernie’s may not be a traditional drive-in, but it features a convenient drive-thru window with a nostalgic drive-in feel. Over the years, the menu has expanded beyond standard diner fare to include a few original creations, such as the popular green bean dumpling soup that made its debut 20 years ago. Vernie’s also offers egg burgers (a traditional burger topped with an egg) and a classic chicken filet sandwich. And don’t leave without ordering a peanut butter milkshake for the road. vernies-hamburger-house.menu-world.com 785.628.1462

29 KANSAS! magazine

WASHINGTON

COUNTY TOURISM

785.325.2116 | washingtoncountyksed.com FISHING AND PUBLIC HUNTING

The Washington County State Fishing Lake is located 12 miles NW of Washington

put your dreams in Drive

Take a look inside Manhattan’s hidden gem for gearheads and explorers

Story by Nick Spacek

Photography by Dave Mayes

WIDE OPEN

spaces

Opposite Long before Lamborghini became synonymous with expensive sports cars, the company built tractors, including this 1964 model. Above This 1909 Peerless Model 25 Raceabout shines as a stunning example of a Brass Era sporting motorcar.

ucked between a tire shop and a sports bar in a Manhattan strip mall, a hidden utopia of classic cars awaits. From the outside, Midwest Dream Car Collection, 3007 Anderson Ave., looks like an ordinary auto shop. Without the retro mural splashed across its exterior, you would never guess what lies inside. But once the front doors slide open, you know you’re in for something special. A 1909 Peerless Model 25 Raceabout immediately welcomes you to the museum. Its brilliant apple-green paint and gleaming brass trim entice you to admire the vehicle up close before even reading the placard. When you “If [people] connect with a particular type of do, you learn that this vehicle is renowned car, they feel invested in the museum. They want for its massive engine. to stay, they want to look. That’s why we have all Once recognized by the Guinness World these different types of cars.” Records as the –DOUG MELOAN largest engine built for consumer use, Anderson Avenue. But with far more space it reached nearly 100 mph—an astonishing than they needed, they converted it into a achievement for its time. Once you reach the car museum. Over the next six months, they front desk for tickets, you’re already hooked. donated about 50 more cars to the collection This is the Midwest Dream Car Collection, and opened it to the public. a nonprofit museum that takes pride in its “We’ve grown a lot since that time,” Meloan expansive display of vehicles spanning the says. “We sold about 20 of the original cars entire history of the automobile. With more and bought some really impressive new stuff. than 65 cars, the museum offers something for From the very get-go, the vision for the museum everyone: a 1963 Volkswagen 23-window Samba was to have an eclectic collection of very rare Bus, evoking sun-kissed coastal road trips; vehicles that tell stories.” a cutting-edge 1957 Mercedes-Benz 300-SL Among that “eclectic collection of very Gullwing, ready for high-speed chases; a pair of rare vehicles” sits one of the rarest of all 1966 Ford Mustangs built for legendary artists time: a 1948 Tucker. The Tucker Corporation Sonny and Cher; and even an 1886 Benz Patent produced only 51 models of this revolutionary Motorwagen—one of the world’s first true American sedan. At the time, critics called it a automobiles. technological marvel and dubbed it the “car of Although the museum first opened in 2019, tomorrow” thanks to its visionary safety and the collection actually began a year earlier engineering features. when its founders, Ward and Brenda Morgan, The story behind this car is so fascinating got a little carried away at a car auction. that Francis Ford Coppola directed a film “They went to an auction to buy just a couple about its creator in 1988. Tucker: The Man and of cars,” says operations manager and curator His Dream starred Jeff Bridges and featured Doug Meloan. “They ended up buying 13.” the very car on display at the Midwest Dream What started as a splurge soon became a Car Collection—number 17 of 51. The film’s storage problem. The Morgans needed a place trailer plays on a loop in a gallery specially to house their new purchases. A few months created for this car. later, they bought a former grocery store on

31 KANSAS! magazine

WIDE OPEN

Other Car Collections IN KANSAS GRAHAM COUNTY AUTO AND ARTS MUSEUM / Hill City Inside a former service station, this museum displays a rotating selection of about 30 classic cars plus a few vintage motorcycles and tractors. Current standouts include two Ford Model Ts featured in the 1973 film Paper Moon. Facebook: Graham County Auto & Art Museum / 785.871.7862 HOWARD’S TOYS FOR BIG BOYS / Chanute Lifelong classic car enthusiast Howard Alger and his son Rusty opened this antique car museum in 2017, filling it with his personal collection of vintage cars, toys, motorcycles, gas pumps and other memorabilia. Among the treasures sits a 1925 Cadillac, serial number 001—a holy grail for collectors. chanutechamber.com / 620.432.1717 KANSAS CITY AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM / Olathe Unlike many static collections, this museum features a rotating display of 40 vehicles on loan from private collectors. Past displays have spotlighted Volkswagens, low-riders, hot rods and military vehicles. In January, the museum welcomes thousands of scouts and their families for their annual Pinewood Derby races. kansascityautomuseum.com / 913.322.4227 KANSAS MOTORCYCLE MUSEUM / Marquette “Stan the Man” Engdahl, a dirt track racing legend from Marquette, opened this museum in 2003 with his wife LaVona. It houses a remarkable collection of motorcycles, dirt bikes, drag bikes, scooters and more, drawing in visitors from all over the world. The nonprofit also sponsors the annual Thunder on the Smoky biker rally. Watch for this year’s event September 26. ksmotorcyclemuseum.org / 785.546.2449 ST. FRANCIS MOTORCYCLE MUSEUM / St. Francis With more than 150 vintage motorcycles from more than 45 manufacturers, this museum has several standout exhibits. Look for one of only two 1902 Orient motorcycles known to exist, as well as a 1944 Cushman Military Airborne Model 53, designed to be airdropped by Allied paratroopers during World War II. stfrancismotorcyclemuseum.org / 785.332.2400 THE GARAGE AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM / Salina This museum in the heart of downtown Salina features a rotating display of cars from regional collectors, interactive experiences and hands-on activities for visitors of all ages. Plus, it is home to the Royal Driving School, where instructors teach private driving course lessons. seama.org / 785.833.6888

32 KANSAS! magazine

spaces

Beyond the Tucker exhibit, the rest of the collection sprawls the length of the museum. As visitors wind their way through the exhibits, they can’t help but pinball from one vehicle to the next as something new grabs their attention. Maybe it’s the 1958 BMW 600 covered in 3,000 wine corks. Perhaps it’s the gullwing doors on the 1982 DeLorean DMC-12, modified to look like the time machine from Back to the Future, complete with a flux capacitor. The Cadillac goddess atop the 1930 Cadillac V-16’s chrome radiator also captivates guests. After seeing so many vehicles, visitors can’t help but wonder what it would be like to drive one of these gems. Luckily, a Midwest Dream Car Collection membership gets people closer to the action. Members pay between $35 and $50 to gain unlimited museum admission, early access to new exhibits and exclusive invitations to members-only events. These include special receptions throughout the year and the annual Amphicar Picnic, where members actually get to take a 1966 Amphicar—a unique land-and-water vehicle—out onto the lake. On top of a membership, the museum offers year-round public events, including jazz nights, “tread talks” and karaoke parties. Guests can also book the museum’s full event space and catering kitchen for private events. “Our event space is one of the most unique there is,” says marketing director Jennifer Elliott. “Guests get to use the event space and also have access to the museum.” Whether visitors are car experts or novices, the museum appeals to both. “If you walk in, and you’re any kind of car enthusiast, you’re already sold,” Elliott adds. “But for somebody who isn’t, they still come in, look around, learn all the stories, and [leave] as fans.” And that’s the appeal. No matter the car, there is a story for everyone. “If [people] connect with a particular type of car, they feel invested in the museum,” Meloan says. “They want to stay, they want to look. That’s why we have all these different types of cars. Although most of the cars on display are in pristine original or restored condition, some are survivors with a scrape or a nick. But boy, they tell a story that touches our hearts.” midwestdreamcarcollection.org / 785.236.5501 Opposite With more than 65 cars on display, the Midwest Dream Car Collection aims to tell the story of the automobile from its earliest days to the present.

Vinyl Revival

Acoustic Sounds celebrates 40 years of spinning magic in Salina

Story by Bill Stephens Photography by Tanner Colvin and Bill Stephens

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specialists fitted with headphones sit at n an age obsessed with instant turntables and listen to albums fresh off the gratification, vinyl records should have presses. Their job is to catch surface defects and faded into the past. First, cassettes and tell Kassem whether he needs to remake a run. CDs overshadowed them, then digital Each workstation includes a stereo microscope, downloads nearly erased them. But a allowing the specialists to inspect a record’s growing shift toward mindful listening is flipping microscopic grooves. the script. Vinyl has now seen 19 consecutive Over the years, QRP has pressed new music years of sales growth and, for the first time from a variety of artists, including Chris since 1983, annual revenue has surpassed $1 Stapleton and Kendrick Lamar, and reissues billion. At the heart of this revival is an unlikely from the Beach Boys and Chuck Berry. powerhouse in Salina. “We’ve built business relationships with For 40 years, Chad Kassem has quietly built artists from across the a vinyl empire there. It started spectrum,” Kassem says. in 1986 with Acoustic Sounds, a “We have done pressings vinyl retailer that made its name for Bob Marley, The Who, reissuing historic recordings with painstaking care. Over A R E P R E S S E D Jimi Hendrix, Steely Dan, Van Morrison, ZZ Top, The time, Kassem brought each • At a recording session, the Doors, Miles Davis and John stage of the vinyl production sound from the musicians is Coltrane.” process in-house. He launched picked up by microphones and Before 2011, Kassem his own labels—Analogue recorded onto a reel-to-reel contracted out his pressing Productions for vinyl reissues, tape deck. needs. Then, he tracked and APO Records for original • The edited tape is played to a down 10 used presses— recordings. He also added cutting lathe, which converts some in London, some Blue Heaven Studios, which the tape output into electrical in Chicago. A few were in serves as his recording studio, signals that cause the pretty rough shape, but they mastering lab and concert hall. recording stylus of the cutting were affordable. He bought Consolidated Printing handles lathe to carve a groove into them, brought them to his his print needs. Then there’s the master lacquer disc. Salina facility, and had them Quality Record Pressings (QRP), • This master disc is visually completely rebuilt. Today, QRP Kassem’s high-end vinyl record inspected for flaws. runs 16 presses and turns out pressing plant. • The master disc is nearly one million 12-inch LPs “We go to the top major electroplated to create a each year, making it one of the labels and license the rights stamper, which is placed in the largest domestic producers to reissue their records that press. Molten vinyl is stamped of vinyl albums. Demand now interest us,” Kassem says. “We under pressure to create the exceeds supply—arguably a can do everything in Salina, final LP that is sleeved and desirable situation. from studio live recording to placed into the jacket for Before founding Acoustic mastering to plating to pressing distribution to the customer. Sounds, Kassem lived in to graphic artwork.” • Test your knowledge: If the Louisiana. After a run-in In audiophile circles, the record is spinning 33⅓ times with the law in the 1980s, a plant has earned a reputation per minute and the recording Louisiana judge gave him for low-noise, high-consistency totals 30 minutes, how many the “life-changing choice” to pressings and is regarded as one grooves are on each side of move to Salina for treatment of the best pressing plants in the the album? If you multiplied of a substance-use disorder. United States. 33 times 30, no cigar for you. During his probation, he That’s because Kassem There is only one continuous worked a rotation of part-time prioritizes quality control, groove per side! jobs while buying and selling striving for quiet surfaces LP records from his twofree from “pops” or “ticks.” bedroom apartment. After At the facility, quality control

How Records

Opposite Quality Record Pressings in Salina has earned a reputation for producing low-noise and high-consistency vinyl.

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Don’t Miss Vinyl Summit! Mark your calendars for October 15–17, 2026. Acoustic Sounds hosts this annual threeday music event at its Salina headquarters. Vinyl Summit brings together a who’s who of the record production business, including industry leaders and audio enthusiasts. Renowned musicians take the stage inside Blue Heaven Studio, and facility tours are available throughout the event. Best of all, this year’s event marks 40 years of Acoustic Sounds. vinylsummit.com landing a job as a cook at Russell’s Restaurant, he continued collecting records as a hobby. Using mailorder catalogs, he traded, bought and sold rare and high-quality blues and jazz records. After his probation was finished, he pursued a career in the record business. By 1986, he put an official name on his operation: Acoustic Sounds. The business soon skyrocketed, bringing in $100,000 in sales. He moved operations to a fourbedroom ranch, but city inspectors grew frustrated. “I don’t think they minded the UPS trucks coming daily to the house, but when the 18-wheelers started arriving, I knew I had to rethink my arrangements,” he says with a laugh. Today, Acoustic Sounds spans 10 buildings in Salina, totaling more than 162,000 square feet. The company retails and distributes new and used records, plus an assortment of audiophile paraphernalia, including cartridges, turntables, preamps and speakers—all available online at acousticsounds.com. Kassem also supplies wholesale vinyl records to independent record shops. “My favorite genre is the blues,” he says with a grin. “Over the years, I have recorded albums of at least 100 musicians. Even after the musicians are gone, I want to make certain that their recordings will be available for generations to come.”

To honor his love of blues music, Kassem dedicated his APO label to releasing new music from aging blues legends. The artists always record at Blue Heaven Studios, which operates out of an old Victorian church Kassem bought. He likes the building for its acoustics. The arched ceiling resonates with the music, providing an unequaled warmth and depth of audio compared to traditional studios. APO has released new material from blues figures such as Honeyboy Edwards, Jimmie Lee Robinson and Jimmy Rogers, a member of Muddy Waters’ original band. Kansas City blues legends Myra Taylor and Little Hatch have also recorded with APO. Kassem often records these artists whenever they’re traveling into Salina for the Blues Masters at the Crossroads, a two-night blues concert hosted by Acoustic Sounds. “I appreciate Salina every day. The more I am here, the more I like it,” Kassem says. “Many people get second chances, including me. The judge was so impressed with my positive lifestyle here that I was granted full pardon by Louisiana governor Edwin Edwards after my time was up. I don’t want him to think that pardon was wasted.”

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THE ROAD

STILL

TALKS

As Route 66 turns 100, we remember the paths our ancestors carved through this stretch of land

the far southeast corner of Kansas, 13.2 miles of asphalt offer a glimpse into the America of yesteryear. To a time when mom-and-pop shops reigned and road trips promised adventure and freedom. This portal is Route 66. Also known as the “Main Street of America,” this historic byway stretches 2,448 miles from Chicago to Santa Monica, California, crossing eight states. When commissioned in 1926, it promised something America had never quite seen before: a continuous paved ribbon connecting rural communities to big cities. Now, as the Mother Road turns 100, Route 66 aficionados are eager to celebrate this byway—its past and its future. For Mary Billington, director of the Baxter Springs Heritage Center and Museum, those miles are a source of comfort and connection. “My entire life has been spent on or adjacent to Route 66,” Billington says. “I was born in Tulsa and raised in Oklahoma. Both my parents grew up either on or adjacent to Route 66. … Route 66 is home. It’s family. It’s a connection to everyone in your life.” Of the eight states it crosses, Kansas has the shortest stretch. The route runs exclusively through Cherokee County, passing Galena, Riverton and Baxter Springs. Despite covering only a few miles, this section is packed with fascinating history and geology and attracts thousands of tourists from around the world each year. “We are the shortest section of Route 66 with the most history per mile,” says Renee Charles. “We are one of two states that were pre-paved [before Route 66 was created]. That’s mainly why they came through Kansas, because our roads were already hardened with chat [the crushed rock tailings from lead and zinc mines].” Charles is one of the most active promoters of Route 66. She is the former president of the Kansas Historic Route 66 Association, and, as secretary of the Route 66 Road Ahead Partnership, she helped introduce a bill in Congress in 2025 to designate Route 66 a National Historic Trail ahead of the road’s centennial. “I grew up traveling Route 66 with my single mom to California from Joplin,” Charles says. “It was about making memories with my own family and then sharing those memories with people that come through. For [some] foreign [travelers], it’s about the nostalgia. One gentleman said that you could see all the United States traveling Route 66. “It’s all about enjoying the journey, not the destination —about seeing all those quirky sites and meeting all those crazy people. It’s a very hospitable trip.”

Mining Leads the Way Cherokee County became a mining powerhouse after lead and zinc deposits drew prospectors to the Ozark Plateau, which covers Baxter Springs and Galena. Galena took its name from the lead ore discovered there, and the town established itself in 1877, becoming Kansas’ first mining town. Soon, the area joined the Tri-State Mining District, a sprawling network across southeast Kansas, southwest Missouri and northeast Oklahoma. Between 1850 and 1950, this district produced half of America’s zinc and a tenth of its lead. Miners dug the first shaft in Cherokee County in 1874, launching southeast Kansas’ dominance in coal. Underground shaft mining ruled for decades, at one point supplying a third of the world’s coal demand.

Before the Roads Were Paved Long before Route 66 earned its “Main Street of America” nickname, our ancestors carved similar paths through

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this compact stretch of Kansas land. Native Americans, soldiers and cattle drivers all crossed here, leading some historians to call this corner of the state the place where the Old West truly began. The Osage Nation first dominated this territory. Many of them followed the Black Dog Trail through Baxter Springs—a route engineered by their chief himself. Then came the 19th century, when European settlers pushed Indigenous tribes onto eastern Kansas lands, forcing the Cherokee, Shawnee and Quapaw through the area. In the brutal winter of 1861, Native Americans once again crossed this landscape, this time fleeing Confederate attacks in Oklahoma. A group of 9,000 Union-aligned Native Americans set out on what we now call the “Trail of Blood on Ice,” a grim reference to the more than 2,000 Indigenous people who died from cold, starvation and continued Confederate attacks along the way to Kansas. Earlier in the 19th century, the U.S. Army marched troops and supplies across eastern Kansas. A vital supply line linked Fort Leavenworth to Fort Scott, proving crucial during the Mexican-American War (1846–1848). It later played a key role in the border conflict of Bleeding Kansas and, later still, the Civil War. Today, this route survives as the Frontier Military Historic Byway, parts of which overlap Route 66. During less tumultuous times, major cattle drives thundered through the region. The Eastern Shawnee Cattle Trail, active between 1846 and 1870, became the earliest major route for driving Texas longhorns to railheads in Missouri and Kansas. These cattle trails, much like the military routes, drew settlers to the area. And as more people flocked to Kansas in the 19th century, this corner of the state revealed another kind of treasure buried beneath the ground.

Layers of History Of course, Route 66 eventually made a name for itself. What began as a practical means for hauling goods grew into a piece of Americana legend. As automobiles filled more garages, new motorists hit the road with little more than a map and a sense of freedom. Road trips offered the chance to explore unknown terrain, and Kansas’ stretch of road offers plenty of rolling hills and surprising curves. “We call ourselves the ‘Gateway to the Ozarks,’” Charles says. “We are not flat.” A small corner of the geological Ozarks region extends into Cherokee County, bringing Shoal Creek, limestone bluffs and Schermerhorn Park along with it. Beyond the scenery, plenty of stops reward travelers along these 13.2 miles, including the Marsh Arch Rainbow Bridge. Architect James Barney Marsh built this popular landmark in 1923 to connect the mining communities of Galena, Riverton and Baxter Springs with a sturdy concrete road. Marsh erected about 70 of his rainbow arch bridges throughout the Midwest, but this is the only one still standing along Route 66. The bridge was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1983. In 2000, Brad Paisley sang “Route 66” on it for a TLC special called Route 66: Main Street America. If you’re a fan of Pixar’s 2006 film Cars, make sure to visit Galena. Cars on the Route, a restored service station, houses the International boom truck that inspired Pixar animators when they created their cast of characters. Luigi’s Pit Stop, just down the street, features several character replicas from the film, making it a perfect photo op. Half a mile south, Gearhead Curios is another favorite among tourists. Housed in a restored Texaco filling station, it pays tribute to the Mother Road with the “most photogenic restroom” along the route, a 22-foot-tall Muffler Man standing guard, and a 1951 Hudson Hornet that pays tribute to another character from Cars. And if you want to dig into the region’s mining past, stop at the Baxter Springs Heritage Center & Museum or the Galena Mining & Historical Museum. Route 66 is a symbol of America itself. It has carried every class of life along its path: farmers, outlaws, immigrants, families, truckers, dreamers. “[Route 66] encapsulates all these different layers of history as it goes through an area,” Billington says. “It’s a shared road. Anything that was created on Route 66 was a connector to the next community that already had a roadway. This is why it gets its nickname of Main Street of America—because it was Joplin’s Main Street, literally, to Galena’s Main Street to Baxter Springs’ Main Street. It was this connector route of one main street to the next.” Not bad for a short stretch of asphalt.

But by the 1930s, strip mining took over. In the 1960s, the region acquired a monster: Big Brutus, the world’s second-largest electric shovel. Standing 16 stories tall and weighing 11 million pounds, Big Brutus stripped away earth and rock to uncover shallow coal seams for more than a decade before retiring in 1974. In 2018, he earned a spot on the National Register of Historic Places. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the mines’ success attracted thousands of immigrants and fueled the rise of labor unions. Some 50 nationalities lived together in this corner of the world, earning it the nickname “Little Balkans.” But dangerous conditions and low pay united the workers. In December 1921, between 2,000 and 6,000 women marched. They protested unfair labor practices, hazardous conditions, poor pay and discrimination. Dubbed the “Amazon Army,” these women marched for their husbands, brothers, fathers, sons and friends— men earning just $3 a day and working in unsafe mines where strikes were illegal. The Amazon Army’s efforts helped champion eight-hour workdays, child labor laws and equal rights for women and minorities. Laying the Groundwork Intense mining created a sudden need for roads capable of handling heavy machinery. At the same time, automobiles were rolling off assembly lines, and paved roads began stitching the country together. Take the Ozark Trail Highway. Organized in 1913, this short-lived network of improved roads connected Missouri, Kansas and Oklahoma to New Mexico. Then, in 1915, a massive transcontinental route called the Jefferson Highway ran from Winnipeg, Canada, all the way to New Orleans. Built partially to benefit farmers, it succeeded—and passed through several Kansas communities, including Galena, Riverton and Baxter Springs. These two highways helped lay the physical foundation for Kansas’ stretch of Route 66. Then the Good Roads Movement, a national lobby pushing for better rural roads, helped transform America’s infrastructure from a patchwork of muddy trails into a standardized, federally funded highway system. “Route 66 is the heritage that carries from one community to the next,” Billington says. “It’s the sense of movement and connection. It gets its history because it wasn’t a road created … this was an overlay of history. Before it was Route 66, it was the Ozark Trail. It was the Jefferson Highway. It was part of the Military Road. It was the Eastern Shawnee Cattle Trail and part of the Osage Black Dog Trail. Those layers of history are what Route 66 absorbed.”

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W h at t h e

Road t a u g h t m e

Get swept up in Kansas’ backroads, and you’ll come back with more than just stories—you’ll return with unexpected insights

Story by Marci Penner

Photography by Dave Leiker

Do you

have the heart to be a great Kansas explorer? It takes more than a map, a spare tire and a full tank of gas. You’ll need an eye for subtle beauty, an appreciation for easily overlooked details, and—most of all—the hunger for a good story. When people sense they have an avid listener, they tend to open up. They share not just directions or history, but deeper stories of their secrets and dreams. A bit of curiosity and interest in others’ experiences can enrich any road trip. The final necessity is simple: Keep your heart open to adventure. Watch for signals that tell you when to pull over and search out a stone-arch bridge tucked beneath the roadway. Feel the stillness of a sanctuary when you walk into an open church with no one there. Stay curious and get lost. That’s often where you’ll stumble onto the most beautiful views or the most intriguing detail. Over the years, these tenets have served me well as I explored rural communities, a journey I began with my dad, Mil Penner, in 1990. These road trips shaped me as a person, leading to several Kansas guidebooks, and inspiring my dad and me to start the Kansas Sampler Foundation, a nonprofit dedicated to preserving and sustaining rural culture. Among the foundation’s most well-known projects are the Kansas Explorers Club, the 8 Wonders of Kansas, and the Kansas Guidebook for Explorers 1 & 2, which I co-authored with the incomparable WenDee Rowe. Together, we visited all 625 incorporated cities in Kansas to search for stories and hidden gems—a trip I loved so much I did it twice. This legacy all began with what I felt on the road. Only on those stretches of pavement and backroads could I meet people from all walks of life: a grocery store owner who dissolved into tears after telling me who shopped in her store—and who didn’t shop; a waitress who led us to a café’s back room to show us where she’s certain a ghost still lingers; a store owner who showed us the refrigerator holding the community’s hidden liquor stash. You can’t plan these stories. You have to earn an invitation.

The following stories represent just a handful of the hundreds of special experiences I’ve had on the road. You can have these adventures, too. The wonders of Kansas are right under your nose if you take the time to look.

When the Doors Are Locked When WenDee and I visited the small community of Cuba, we had one goal: to see the Cuba Community Hall, home of the famous annual Rock-a-Thon and the heart of this Czech community. The three-story building stood locked, but we refused to give up. We crossed the street to the Cuba Cash Store and explained what we hoped to do. We ended up chatting with the new owner for a while, exchanged some “shop talk” and dropped the names of a few people we knew in Cuba. Before long, the owner handed us the key. We let ourselves in and wandered the halls. We sat in the famous rockers, took a few pictures, soaked up its character, then locked up and returned the key.

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“

”

“

What made the moment even more electric were the cattle—free-range, unbothered and ambling along both sides of the dirt road and straight across it. They had the right-of-way, so we eased forward. It felt like a movie scene, with storm clouds rolling in, cattle grazing, and the vast, open grassland stretching endlessly beneath a massive sky.

”

Marci’s Travels

PHOTOS COURTESY Marci Penner

“

Marlene had been in the middle of canning, but she set everything aside. She took off her apron, left the rest of the work to her husband and son, and met us at the church. She apologized in advance for her appearance and hoped we wouldn’t mind if she played in socks. Then she asked what we would like to hear.

”

This is what I love about exploring small towns. If you can blend into rural culture, trust comes easily. And when it does, doors tend to open—literally.

The climb felt a bit precarious as solid steps eventually gave way to narrow, creaky ones, with only open space underneath. The final push put us on a ladder leading straight into the clock tower. Somehow, we made it. The view over Beloit took our breath away. Even better, we got to inspect the clock’s inner workings, sign the wall and ask Brian as many questions as we wanted. It was another thrill—but, this time, without the fear of a law enforcement pursuit.

Don’t Drive on Runways After visiting Byers, WenDee and I wound through Pratt County on the backroads. We weren’t sure where we were headed, but we trusted our sense of direction. The pavement led us straight through a feedlot, which was surprising … but then came the real shock. We realized we were on the runway of the Pratt Regional Airport. The road had led us right onto it. The moment this registered, we made a quick U-turn and sped away as fast as we could. We halfexpected red flashing lights and sirens to chase us down. Thankfully, they never came. The whole experience thrilled us, but I think we’ll stick to the roads that don’t require a pilot’s license.

Face Your Fears Sometimes I get lucky enough to explore Kansas with friends from across the state. This time, Andrea Etzel and Jess Hoffert from Kansas Tourism joined me. Our first stop was the Mitchell County Courthouse in Beloit. Built in 1901, this Richardsonian Romanesque beauty remains the only courthouse in Kansas with a screen door at its main entrance. We headed straight to the county treasurer’s office window, just a few steps from the entrance, and struck up a conversation about our admiration for the screen door and four-faced limestone clock tower. That’s when Brian, the maintenance man, walked by. The women at the treasurer’s office suggested he take us up the tower. We welcomed the unexpected offer with an eager Yes!

It Doesn’t Get Better Than This

You never know who holds the key to an unforgettable moment. For us, it was Elmer. When WenDee and I stopped by the Kansas Rural Water Association office in Seneca on our way to St. Mary’s Church in St. Benedict, we mentioned where we were headed next to our friend Elmer. By the time we arrived—maybe 10 minutes later—Elmer had already called ahead. He reached Marlene, the church organist, and asked if she might come and play for us. Marlene had been in the middle of canning, but she set everything aside. She took off her apron, left As of January 2026, the rest of the work to her husband Marci Penner, founder and son, and met us at the church. and director emeritus She apologized in advance for her of the Kansas Sampler appearance and hoped we wouldn’t Foundation, and WenDee mind if she played in socks. Then she Rowe, longtime project asked what we would like to hear. manager, have stepped My mom had been a church into advisory roles; organist, so this instrument Simone Elder has taken already held a special place in over as director. The my heart. I requested my mom’s Kansas Explorers Club favorite song—the one she always (kansassampler.org) played with gusto: Bach’s Jesu, Joy will continue, as will the of Man’s Desiring. newly launched online Marlene began to play. Kansas Guidebook We stood in the church balcony (kansasguidebook.org). near the organ and took everything in. St. Mary’s is known for its lavish

Sampler Update

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Lessons Learned

These are only a few of my favorite adventures, and they could happen to anyone who has the desire to veer off the main road, the patience not to rush, and the curiosity to uncover lesser-known stories. Here are a few more lessons I’ve learned along the way:

#1 The original from-scratch cooks still work their magic in small-town cafés. #2 You’ll find some of the best chicken-fried steak and homemade pies in the most rustic of diners. #3 After you find an interesting detail in a town, head to the post office and use it as your leading question. Buy stamps as a thank-you for their intel.

interior and award-winning renovations that carefully preserved its painted patterns, bands and friezes across walls, ceiling and columns. That day, with just the four of us standing still in the open space, the music filled every curve of the sanctuary. It was one of those rare, unrepeatable experiences, and it happened only because we knew Elmer, a quiet connector at the heart of this place.

along both sides of the dirt road and straight across it. They had the right-of-way, so we eased forward. It felt like a movie scene, with storm clouds rolling in, cattle grazing, and the vast, open grassland stretching endlessly beneath a massive sky. Finally, we reached Point of Rocks, which was once a lookout for Santa Fe Trail travelers. We walked to the edge and peered down at the well-worn path where wagons had once rolled. It’s hard not to imagine what those travelers felt, facing similar storms with nothing but canvas and courage. Some experiences settle deep and stay with you. This humbling moment was one of them. I can’t fully convey the enormity of what that expansive sky brought us. That’s it for now. I’ll see you on the road.

The final necessity is simple:

Keep your heart open to adventure.

Dodging Cattle and Storms

The most unpredictable part of exploring is the weather. I’ll never forget the time we headed to Point of Rocks, a prominent #5 Cemeteries reveal deep natural bluff in insight into a small town’s the Cimarron culture. Seek out unique National gravestones and interesting Grassland. As epitaphs. soon as we crossed the cattle guard in Morton County, the sky began to darken. The wind picked up, and rain slapped against the windshield. Still, we couldn’t bring ourselves to turn around and miss that breathtaking sight. What made the moment even more electric were the cattle—free-range, unbothered and ambling

#4 Spending money, even just a little bit, in a small-town business goes a long way for morale. So does offering genuine compliments.

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VISITMANHATTANKS.ORG

e ves at th n. li it ir p s io Route 66 eam Car Collect r D Midwest

Rick Pierce / Cloud County

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kansasgallery

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Tom Arnhold / Johnson County

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Lauren O’Dea / Franklin County

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Christine Curry / Butler County

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Mother Knows

Best

Especially about cinnamon rolls. Follow our centennial culinary crawl down Kansas’ Route 66. Story by Meta Newell West

Photography by Kenny Felt

KANSAS

taste

oute 66 through Kansas may be short on miles, but it’s certainly long on flavor. The 13.2-mile stretch in the southeast corner of the state packs in 19 homegrown eateries, offering everything from trendy coffee shops and American classics to thick slabs of steak, international cuisine and charming confectioneries. With so many options, it seemed a culinary roadmap was in order. Although this route is short, you’ll find plenty to see along the way. Give yourself two to three hours for the journey so you have time to pull over for photos and order plenty of food. Many of these stops have limited hours, and hours can change from what’s listed online, so call ahead before planning a visit.

Opposite Diners can’t go wrong with a classic cheeseburger and fries at Cars on the Route in Galena. Right The owners of Cars on the Route revived the 1934 garage and turned the former service bay into a nostalgic dining space.

Start in Galena Early morning travelers fuel up at JBirds, where gourmet coffees come with dessert-like names such as Fudge Brownie or Caramel Toffee Latte. Stock up on fresh-baked goods, too; their bestsellers include blueberry muffins and pecan pie twists. For something more savory, JBirds serves biscuits and gravy and hearty breakfast sandwiches. Just off Route 66, Streetcar Station Coffee Shop offers another hometown welcome. An indoor mural features “Dinky,” the electric streetcar that once connected Galena to Joplin, Missouri, and Miami, Oklahoma, with stops near the shop. These days, owner Danny Anderson dishes up local history alongside gourmet coffees, hot chocolates, Italian ices and smoothies. Breakfast fare is also available, but Anderson really talks up the lunch specials. “You don’t want to miss my wife’s goulash or her internationally famous potato soup,” he says. “A group of young Irish women once declared it a ‘taste of home’ and asked for the recipe.” Since 2018, Sweet Creek Diner & Bakery has been a family-owned spot known for its generous portions. The bakery turns out giant cookies and flaky cream horns, while the diner cooks up allday breakfasts and homestyle dinners. Sweet Creek serves its signature country fried steak three ways: traditional dinner, sandwich, or featured in the breakfast skillet. Daily specials offer more hearty comfort foods, including “Flashback Friday.” This tourist-

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favorite special serves up a classic Midwestern combo every Kansan remembers from grade school: chili and cinnamon rolls. They even serve it on a lunch tray alongside a baked potato with sour cream on the side. Drive around the corner, just half a mile off Route 66 on what is considered “old Route 66”—where travelers drove before the highway was redirected in 1961—and you’ll find Cars on the Route, one of Kansas’ must-see eateries along the Mother Road. It operates out of a restored 1934 service station and is home to the 1951 International boom truck that inspired Tow Mater, the rusty, good-natured character from Pixar’s 2006 film Cars.

W H E R E T O E AT O N

Kansas Route 66 Galena Cars on the Route 119 N. Main St. 620.210.7616

Baxter Springs Bricks & Brews Woodfire Grill & Pub 1531 Military Ave. 620.304.2056 Carlene’s Ice Cream and Deli 1222 Military Ave. 620.304.2106

Gravy’s Place 316 S. Main St. 620.284.1511

Don Juan’s Mexican Restaurant 1242 Military Ave. 620.856.4000

JBirds 815 W. 7th St. 417.499.3800 Kicks Bar and Grill on Route 66 202 W. 7th St. 417.355.5947

El Cabritos 2135 Military Ave. 620.856.3733 Lion Rojo 1101 Military Ave. 620.304.2061

Mi Torito Mexican Restaurant 418 S. Main St. 620.783.2883

Monarch Pharmacy & Soda Fountain 1601 Military Ave. 620.856.3030

Streetcar Station Coffee Shop 515 S. Main St. 620.783.5554

Oriental Garden 1910 Military Ave. 620.856.3003

Sweet Creek Diner & Bakery 300 W. 7th St. 417.385.5008

Punkins Place 301 Military Ave. 620.284.1900 Rice House Chinese Restaurant 2932 Military Ave. 620.856.2828

Riverton

Nelson’s Old Riverton Store 7109 SE Highway 66 620.848.3330

Van’s Steakhouse 2447 Military Ave. 620.856.5506 Weston’s Route 66 Cafe 1737 Military Ave. 620.856.4414

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taste

“This movie was responsible for reviving the towns on the route,” says co-owner Renee Charles. At the same time the movie came out, the building’s owners renovated the garage and turned the service bay into a dining space and souvenir shop. Today, they serve simple Americana classics: grilled burgers, Philly cheesesteaks and chicken nuggets. A few blocks south, Gravy’s Place keeps its beer cold and its walls lined with memorabilia. Locals regularly meet at this rustic hangout to catch up, play pool, sing karaoke and listen to live music. Owner Randy Graves mostly focuses on refreshments, but he also “doctors up” toaster-oven pizzas and other simple bar foods. Every so often, he brings the community together with potluck dinners. Another block south, beautifully painted tables give Mi Torito a vibrant, upbeat atmosphere. This family-run Mexican restaurant serves traditional dishes with modern twists. One entire section of the large menu is devoted to local favorites, including the Kurt’s Special—a bed of rice piled high with grilled chicken, steak strips, veggies, grated cheese and cheese sauce for good measure. For an impressive lineup of wings—Nashville hot, Caribbean jerk and spicy ranch, just to name a few—along with other classic bar food, head to Kicks Bar and Grill on Route 66. Grab an ice-cold beer to wash it all down. Stages inside and outside set the scene for live music every Friday and Saturday night, and sometimes Thursdays.

sourced ingredients. Their commitment to fresh ingredients shines through their salsa, which carries a hint of sweet heat, and in their perfectly seasoned chicken fajitas. Two more restaurants along Route 66 offer authentic Mexican fare. Just down the street, Don Juan’s Mexican Restaurant has an extensive menu with popular foods such as tamales, carne asada and slow-cooked pork fajitas. Wash it all down with a sweet and creamy horchata or a bottle of fruity, bubbly Jarritos.

Make Your Way Through Riverton The sandwiches at Nelson’s Old Riverton Store aren’t fancy, they’re just plain good. Owner Scott Nelson credits the Kansas-produced meats from Fanestil Meats in Emporia, which they slice fresh for each order. “We never make them ahead,” he says. Riverton may have only around 700 people and just one restaurant, but it’s a required stop for Route 66 travelers. After all, the store has been here longer than the Mother Road herself. Spend Time in Baxter Springs Make Punkins Place your first stop in Baxter Springs. Caffeine seekers will find standard coffee along with lattes, espresso, spiced chai and plant-based energy drinks with names inspired by famous Route 66 landmarks (think Cadillac Ranch and Blue Whale Meteor Crater). Grab a cozy seat inside or hit the drivethru if you’re in a rush. Pastries change daily but always offer some variation of scones, muffins and cookies. History meets food at Lion Rojo, a Mexican restaurant tucked inside the former Crowell Bank building, which, in 1876, was robbed by infamous outlaw Jesse James. Today, the restaurant specializes in traditional meals made with locally

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Near the end of the route, don’t skip El Cabritos. For more than two decades, this restaurant has served everything from enchiladas and quesadillas to specialties such as beef steak topped with a ranch-style sauce. Ice cream lovers will savor the rotating selection of small-batch scoops at Carlene’s Ice Cream and Deli. Blackberry cobbler ice cream and a chocolate, caramel and cashew concoction dubbed “Bear Claw” are some of their unique flavors. Beyond frozen treats, Carlene’s also whips up fresh sandwiches and seasonal items. Above Bricks & Brews Woodfire Grill & Pub in Baxter Springs cranks its wood-fired oven to 650 degrees, delivering artisan pizza with an irresistible smoky flavor.

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Keep the sweet treats coming at Monarch Pharmacy & Soda Fountain. Kelly McAllister opened this spot in 2015 when she returned to her hometown to start a full-service pharmacy with an old-fashioned soda fountain—just like the pharmacies from the 1950s. This shop sells a rotating selection of homemade ice cream by the scoop, plus hand-crafted shakes, malts, floats, sodas and phosphates. Be sure to ask the soda fountain attendant about their brown cows, black cows and egg creams.

Just next door, Bricks & Brews Woodfire Grill & Pub heats up artisan pizzas in a large wood-fired oven. Owner Doug Puckett says the oven cranks at 650 degrees, keeping the turnaround time, including assembly, to about 5 minutes. Best of all, it gives the pizza a distinct smoky flavor and a perfectly charred crust. Puckett opened the restaurant in 2021, but he first worked in the historic brick building back in high school when it was an auto supply shop. He renovated the space, preserving its character and adding an upstairs party room with a stage where musicians play on weekends.

taste

Auto-part gears hold up the outside awnings, transmissions have been turned into bathroom sinks, and Route 66 memorabilia is everywhere. Further south, Weston’s Route 66 Cafe has kept locals happy for more than 30 years with good old-fashioned homestyle cooking. Fluffy pancakes, eggs cooked to order, and other breakfast options are served all day alongside comfort classics such as meatloaf, pork tenderloin sandwiches, chicken fried steak, and creamy chicken and noodles served over mashed potatoes. Generous slices of pie, sheet cake and other homemade desserts fill a glass case near the front. Along your drive, don’t miss the distinctive flavors from Route 66’s two standout Asian restaurants, where tastes range from sweet and salty to sour and umami. Oriental Garden’s all-youcan-eat buffet is packed with classic Chinese dishes such as egg rolls, kang poong chicken and lo mein. Don’t skip their dessert selection. A little further south, Rice House Chinese Restaurant cooks everything fresh to order. Think sweet and savory General Tso’s chicken, pepper steak, classic fried rice and soups, just to name a few. With lunch portions, full-size plates and combination platters, diners have plenty of options. Near the end of the trail, Van’s Steakhouse capitalizes on Baxter Springs’ reputation as the first cattle-trade center in Kansas, with western décor, saddle-covered seats and some of the best steaks in the state. This family restaurant dishes up 14-ounce ribeye, smoky sirloin and chicken fried steak along with other stick-to-your-ribs entrées and sides. And, according to locals, they serve some of the best pie in town. Eating our way through this historic byway was an adventure. My husband and I sampled food at every stop, and we were impressed by the variety and quality, not to mention how clean each place was. But what stood out the most? The friendly, welcoming staff at each stop. We definitely got our culinary kicks on Route 66!

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Above Known for its generous portions, Sweet Creek Diner & Bakery in Galena serves up giant cookies and large slices of cake.

recipe. Puck’s Peach BBQ Pizza Bricks & Brews Woodfire Grill & Pub in Baxter Springs gets creative with its wood-fired pizza selections. This savory, spicy and slightly sweet pizza gets its name from the restaurant’s owner Doug Puckett. Even without a wood-fired oven, you can create this recipe at home. Yield: One 12-inch pizza INGREDIENTS

Peach BBQ Sauce • ½ to ¾ cup peach preserves • 5 ounces peach bourbon or regular bourbon • 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper • ½ cup tomato-based BBQ sauce Pizza • One (12-inch) prepared pizza dough • Peach BBQ Sauce (see recipe above) • ½ cup cooked chicken, cut into chunks • ½ cup diced or shredded mozzarella cheese • 2 teaspoons chopped green pepper • 2 teaspoons chopped red onion

INSTRUCTIONS

one. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Roll out pizza dough to fit pizza pan and set aside.

two. To make the Peach BBQ Sauce, combine preserves, bourbon

and crushed red pepper in a saucepan. Over medium heat, bring to a boil; stir, then remove from heat. Repeat this process 3 more times until much of the alcohol has cooked off. Let cool slightly. three. Pour slightly cooled sauce into a blender along with tomato-based BBQ sauce and blend until smooth. Set aside. four. To make the pizza, spread a generous portion of sauce over dough. Evenly distribute chicken, mozzarella, green pepper and onion over top. five. Bake 12 to 15 minutes or until crust is golden and toppings are bubbling.

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poems W R I T T E N B Y K A N S A N S A N D C U R A T E D B Y P O E T L A U R E A T E T R A C I B R I M H A L L

Bobby trooped out state names Nat sang (Kansas not among them). But bigger dreams of highway overtook The Road to Hollywood, its gas stations morphing into museums, its diners roadside kitsch. No more kicks, or, as Jack raps, Dixie Chicks. Drive past a trinity of Kansas towns: Galena, Riverton, Baxter Springs, trying to catch a past, staring into the eyes of a rust-red tow truck, once rode hard pulling equipment from the mines before traveling the mater road to Hollywood. Past Riverton, dance the ghost road over the Rainbow Bridge, the last standing on 66. Round down to Kansas’ first cow town, end point of another road, a river of beeves headed north. An old hand, Baxter Springs knows lovers come and go, as the grass knows, having watched people make trails, millennia ago. The land has seen it all, and will again.

WILLIAM SHELDON has published five collections of poetry, most recently When I Go West: New

and Selected Poems (Meadowlark, 2025). His work has appeared in such journals as Blue Mesa Review, Columbia and Prairie

Schooner, among others. He lives

in Hutchinson, where he plays bass for the band The Excuses.

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PHOTOS Adobe Stock/Andrew Bayda; courtesy William Sheldon

An American Route

The way the ancient, wide Missouri gnaws the northeast Kansas border, a river of dreams bites a half-marathon from the corner below, the shortest state run of Route 66 bending from Missouri down into Oklahoma, where Tom Joad lit out on the mother road, across the dustbowl fields of the republic, for California, toward swelling fruit and fragrant blossoms, and the many thousands who had also followed that road of flight.

your adventure starts here

Make Topeka your next Kansas getaway. This July, celebrate more than 93 years of Mexican culture, food, music, dance, and community at Fiesta Topeka. Make it a weekend with animal encounters at the Topeka Zoo, hands-on adventures at the Kansas Children’s Discovery Center, and stories that shaped the state at the Kansas Museum of History. Plan a day, stay for the weekend, and discover something new with every stop.

visittopeka.com