“Health First” the words written in Kanji on the back of Kuwabara Kazuma’s jacket, were also the words echoed throughout my upbringing. Healthy body and healthy mind; this collection incorporates the principles and nature in Chinese medicine and the spiritual and mental peace found through martial arts.
For this collection, I wanted to focus on the following three aspects of fashion design.
Color
Texture
Silhouette
Color
For this aspect of the collection, I was inspired by The Tale of the Bamboo Cutter (pictured above). It is an ancient Japanese story that gave birth to the name of Mount Fuji, mountain abound with warriors. The color palette of my pieces is centered around the mountains and nature tones.
Color Story
Acupunture points, meridians, and collaterals; my portrayal of these pillars of Chinese medicine is my main method of juxtaposing contrasting colors within this collection.
The rigidity and fluidity in martial arts are the focal points for this portion of the collection. The designs work to incorporate these elements while modernizing traditional garments through an emphasis on patternmaking and tailoring. In particular, the silhouettes created referenced mountains, martial arts uniforms, and yamabushi, warrior monks who secluded themselves in the mountains for training.
Silhouette
Silhouette
Silhouette
Look 1
This look features elongated cuffs on the coat, inspired by a combination of yamabushi wristbands and ancient martial arts garments. The one piece vest is a technical take on the yamabushi chest adornment. Lastly, the trousers use a triangular pattern mirroring mountains to create an accented fit at the knees.
Look 2
This top when laid flat is the shape of a triangle, emulating the shape of a mountain. Through extensive patternmaking I was able to maintain a smoothe outline that gives the garment flow. Top and bottom are both enzyme washed to further soften the look. The backless vest is inspired by kendo armor and is hand-felted for a natural texture. This look has been recreated through CLO3D.
Look 3
This drop shoulder padded top is a modernized take on traditional Asian garments. The inner construction features fusing at the shoulder area to provide a structural fit while not affecting the soft appearance of the outer fabric. Both top and bottom feature contrasting colors on the back side. The trousers also feature dart pockets that eliminate the side seams for a rounded yet sleek appearance and are also lined with a wool and recycled shell fabric for warmth. The vest is hand embroidered with the mountain pattern created for this collection to add another kind of texture. Lastly, the shoes of this look were created in collaboration with Old News, a local Taiwanese shoe customizer.
Look 4
This look is comprised of a reversible cropped jacket and adjustable technical trousers. The jacket features a rounded back silhouette as well as hand-felted accents thoughout and adjustable fasteners at the sleeves. The overlapping of the trousers is inspired by samurai armor, and they feature a contrasting elastic gusset for extra mobility, and include an elongated technical strap that reflects the belts martial artists wear.
Look 5
This hooded robe has a similar mountain-shaped pattern as look 2. Look 5 highlights the felting texture of this collection. The unevenness and wrinkles are a direct portrayal of mountain ranges and nature, whereas the accented streak through the back and exposed contrasting pocket bags draw inspiration from Chinese medicine. The bottoms here have a fitted flare pattern that balances the oversized top while still being consistent in shape. Ring fastening trims found throughout the collection are also present here.
The mountain pattern is used for the quilting in this look. Drawstrings are included in both the top and bottom to create the drape found in traditional garments. The hat in this look draws inspiration from Kendo helmets and the bag uses canvas and leather for a subtle contrast in details.
Look 7
This look incorporates the armhole element of the yamabushi top to create a modernized take. The use of contrasting horn buttons is again used to reflect acupuncture points. Structural shaping is created through the sleeves of the suit jacket and accented knees of the trousers. Patchwork pocket detailing and adjustable straps are used on the bag to allow for multiple methods of carry.
Branding Project
Introduction
Background
Young and Dangerous, Yu Yu Hakusho, Slam Dunk, Duke of Mount Deer. Anime and Hong Kong cinema from the 80s and 90s play a huge part of my identity. Growing up watching them, I became captivated with the fusion between modern and traditional Asian aesthetics, a phenomenon that is really representative of my own life. Slowly this appreciation trickled down into other areas of life, from music with Asian infused elements to architecture and cityscapes. With my personal brand, I would like continue this storytelling and share personal elements of my life through my work.
Wardrobe
Like anyone else, my interests have changed through the years, so have my tastes in clothes. But sometimes one just makes bad purchasing decisions
1. Dickies Work Jacket
I do not wear this much anymore. The fabric is stiff and the fit is bad.
2. Woolrich Flannel
It was an impulse buy at a vintage shop. I realized that the style does not fit anything I have and the fit is bad.
3. Adidas Vintage Vest
This was another impulse buy. The fabric is not well kept and the construction has broken down.
4. Asics Marathon Track Jacket
I really like the colors of this jacket and the fit. It is also made of Goretex so it is perfect for the Taipei rain.
5. Nike Vintage Reversible Jacket
This jacket really fits with my wardrobe, is well made, and extremely comfortable.
6. Adidas XbyO Sweatpants
These are really comfortable and the silhouette is really unique. They are subtle but not boring.
Development
culture style true to self
tradition subtle comfortable
craftsmanship unique lifestyle
detail pattern making sustainable
longevity ready to wear earnest
kanoe kanoe kanoe
Brand Story
Whether through art, spoken word, writing, or other means, the tradition of storytelling has been passed down through time as a means to entertain, educate, and preserve cultural and moral values. Kanoe aims to, through its crafted goods, create a lifestyle and stories to be told down the line.
Demographics
Age: 20 - ∞
Gender: Primarily male
Location: Global urban areas
Occupation: Creative industry (designer, photographer, editor, etc.)
Interests: Fashion, crafts, art, travel, music, film, photography, health
Values: A global citizen who advocates higher living standards for all, i.e., values sustainability and fair wage. Dislikes fast fashion and is willing to pay more for craftsmanship and quality that will last.
Lifestyle: Healthy work-life balance. Constantly making strides in career and other passions. A fulfilling lifestyle.
Tokyo
London
New York
Taipei
Competition
ProjectbyH
Founded in 2013 by Henry Lee and Naomi Zhao, ProjectbyH combines Eastern and Western influences to create highly crafted genderless pieces with a focus on silhouette.
Price Range: Tops 200 - 1,000USD
Bottoms 300 - 1,000USD
Outerwear 300 - 2,000USD
Pros: High craftsmanship and quality Unique silhouettes
Cons: Price point Too muted
Kapital was originally a denim manufacturer founded in 1984 by Toshikiyo Hirata. Later on he was joined by his son Kiro Hirata, and together recreated the brand. Today, the label is known for its remimagined Americana, dyes, pioneering textiles, intricate designs, and craftsmanship.
Price Range: Tops 100 - 400USD
Bottoms 150 - 400USD
Outerwear 200 - 1,000USD
Pros: Strong design
Clear brand image and message
High Profile Clientele
Cons: Sometimes culturally appropriates
Kapital
Branding
kanoe
[kuh-noo]
(n.) light narrow boat usually propelled by paddling.
Inspired by my adoration for Asian cinema, Kanoe comes from the movie Monga, which in indigenous Taiwanese language literally translates to small boat. The “C” in the standard spelling of the word is replaced with a “K” to represent my brothers and me, who all have “K” names.
This means of naval transportation is also very representative of own background as someone with cultural roots on both ends of the Pacific Ocean. I would like to use it as a symbol for this brand to bridge the gap between different cultures.
Logo Drafts
Pictorial Mark
Final Logo Design
Combination Mark Wordmark
Retail Experience
With the development of online shopping, consumers have grown accustomed to the convenience and many brick and mortar stores have been shut down. But with this setback comes an opportunity to reinvent retail. With its store, Kanoe hopes to be more interactive.
Kanoe is not only a clothing brand, but a lifestyle. Not only will the store stock other goods, it will have an in house cafe, store-exclusive items, and small exhibitions. In doing so, Kanoe hopes to give customers the opportunity to connect and an incentive to visit the store.
Select lifestyle goods in store.
In house cafe. Natural lighting throughout.
Sustainability
The fashion industry has been recorded as the second biggest industry to contribute to water pollution. However with the growth of fast fashion, the outlook is not looking any brighter. Kanoe goods are highly crafted with the intention of becoming “future vintage”. Many vintage pieces today are able to still be worn and retain value due to traditional and skilled craftsmanship. From using pattern drafting waste to make swing tickets to using natural dyes, Kanoe has many plans to be a more sustainable brand.
1. Upcycled Materials
One man’s trash is another man’s treasure they say. Kanoe plans to push its creative process by using waste to craft, from using waste to recreate packaging to unique textiles.
2. Remake Program
Kanoe offers a remake program where customers can bring back old products for repair/customization or they can choose store credit for future purchases where their item is then stored and later reused.
3. Natural Dyes
Food waste is a non-toxic source and an alternative to aniline dyes. It’s an opportunity to reuse post-consumer waste.
Natural indigo has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. It’s also flame-retardant. Like all natural dyes, it partners well with a GOTS-certified organic story. New bio-technologies offer even greater sustainability by reducing water and chemical usage
Collection Development
WGSN Research
Forecasts anticipate a “return to Earth” trend, which includes collaborating with craftsmen of smaller communities, being more sustainable, and consuming less, buying slower. Desired colors are more classical and timeless ones, ones that will last. Predicted trends include achitectural designs, protective quilting, and historical inspired ones.
Collection Theme
For this collection, I referred to some of the more classic colors mentioned by WGSN, however for my fabric choice, I went with deadstock and old fabrics from previous collections to minimize waste.
Residing in Taiwan for this long, I wanted to use this collection to commemorate my time here and show my affection for this place. For inspiration, I looked to cityscapes and structures, local fashion trends, and traditional culture like calligraphy.
Pantone
rukai blue
Concept - Rukai Blue
For this project, I created two conceptual looks based on the Rukai, a Taiwanese aboriginal tribe. The designs are centered around their stone slab houses, cross shaped embroidery, and the color blue; a few cornerstones of their culture. These two looks were also entirely created with recycled materials to promote sustainability.
Look 1
This one piece coverall features cross shaped hand-felting throughout to parallel the embroidery used by the Rukai tribe. The cross represents familial ties and close relations with fellow tribe members. This piece also presents overlapping fabric through the sleeves and weaving technique around the top to correspond to the stone slab houses.
Look 2
Look 2 was shortlisted for the International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes (IFFTI) 2019 Finals. It explores another way to portray the elements look 1 did, this time using quilting for the top, overlapping fabric throughout, and pleating for the trousers.
Thank You
Design anD garment ConstruCtion
Kevin Q Tran
PhotograPhy
Kevin Q Tran
Shih Chien University International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes makeuP
